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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/26/2019 in all areas

  1. 22 points
    I recently set about doing a throttle body sync today, and needed to fully remove the fairings around the tank on my 2018, and realized there's basically no videos or guides showing this with the newer model, and it differs pretty substantially from the earlier models for which videos and guides abound. So, without further ado: Removing the tank fairings on the 2018+ MT07! First, remove the seats. Screws 1 and 2 are at the base of the seat - release the passenger seat, then remove these two screws, and remove the seat. Next, remove the screws on the sides of the scoops: Then the screws at the front of the scoops. Note, only the marked screws (one on each side) not the silver screws. Then you can pop the scoops off. Pull out at the bottom first to release the big pins in the rubber grommets (see photos) then pop out the clips along the top of the scoop. Because you've taken the pins on the bottom out first, you can tilt the bottom of the scoop away from the bike just a little bit to help pop the top clips out (note their shape) - only tilt the scoop a little, you don't want to snap the clips off! Be gentle. With the clips, I find it helps to start at the rearmost one, and pop them out one at a time working forward. Now you've got the scoops off, there's just 4 more screws to go and you're done. First, pop the two screws off the top of the tank, just forward of the filler: Then the two screws at the front of the fairing: And it's free! There are no more screws or clips, you can pull the centerpiece and both side colored panels off as a single unit. You may need to pull the seat-side bottom edges out a bit (it sits on rubber bumpers attached to the chrome bracket that holds the back of the tank down, so you have to lift the edges of the fairing out over those bumpers) and the front edges by the forks need to be worked around cables. Just gently work the cover off, and voila! I hope this helps someone. The first time I did this, I took out WAY WAY too many screws, silly pushpins, and other such stuff. In fact, the only reason you need to pop the scoops off is to get at the screws at the front of the fairing (11 and 12 above). If not for those two screws, you could take the whole fairing off - scoops and all - in a single piece.
  2. 16 points
    I haven't been on this forum for awhile since my project had many delays. We still aren't done but done enough to test the bike and me out last Friday. Video and pics from my practice day at Road Atlanta yesterday. We missed the morning sessions due to some issues but rode the 3 afternoon sessions. The video starts with me being pushed to pit out and the first time ever back on a motorcycle one day prior to my 6 year crash anniversary. I'm pretty sketchy the first session out. At 6:41 the video flips to the third session and I'm already much more comfortable. I took about 30 seconds off my lap times from just the first to third sessions. Got down to a 2:11 in the third session which is slow but I was still being conservative since it's all still new to me. Before my crash I think I turned 1:44's at Road Atlanta on my Aprilia/RZ 396cc 2T hybrid. Huge props to Doug McCracken. I wouldn't have been out there if it weren't for him. More mods to the bike are coming. Also have to thank Sue, Dustin Ducote, Pops, Richie, Edwin, Stick, all of WERA and many more who helped me along the way to get me where I am today. I decided to not race Saturday because I would have to start from pit lane and I know I'd get lapped. Some racers have traveled far and are spending hard earned money to race and I don't want to get in their way if fighting for a win or position. We had a great day and much to build upon. https://youtu.be/vteXo1czNWE https://youtu.be/ZHIXCDr1cN4
  3. 16 points
    I had some emergency surgeries this spring and summer so I was not able to get on the bike all year until a track day weekend Oct 30 & 31 at NCM Motorsports Park. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and the bike is working great. Here's a few pics.
  4. 16 points
    Luckily, I got one of the very first ones in the country. The engine seems to have a lil more pop to it over the MT07, but probably due to it being geared lower. Suspension is fully adjustable and better than I thought it would be. Feels great on the road, offroad is a blast but have to take it kind of slow because the suspension bottoms out easily. Im gonna dd progressive springs and revalve forks and shock. Seat is comfortable. It's a great do it all bike so far.
  5. 15 points
    I did a track day yesterday at my local track. A rider I know showed up with a New R7,which by the way is a very nice machine. We compared bikes in the pits, looking for differences and trying to determine what components could be interchanged. He was very interested in my Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akrapovic Ti exhaust. This guy is a talented rider and when I was following him, I noticed how much the R7 is a true sportbike. The R7 allows the rider get low on the bike, hang off and tuck in easier. The R7 seat and tail allow for a lot of front to back movement as well. Again they did a nice job. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be between my modified FZ and a stock engined FZ or in this case an R7. In the clip below, you can see me follow him onto the front straight, close in and pass. I knew my bike made more power and pulled longer than it did stock, however this shows a real world difference. Money well spent in my opinion. The R7 will have a Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akra Ti VERY soon. My GoPro Adventure - 10/1/21 Shared using GoPro Ed
  6. 15 points
    Health issues have prevented me from getting on the track thus far this year but it's looking like I'll be able to race this fall. With the down time I got a sweet paint job and cleaned up a few other details. She's ready to roll.
  7. 14 points
    My aim was to find an affordable set of forks to slot in to our trees in the hopes for a quick, inexpensive fork upgrade that anyone could do with basic tools at home. Well, I think it worked out, but it's not quite as "bolt-on" as I hoped. It's still relatively simple to pull off at home. Here goes... The forks to use will be Honda 1995-98 Honda CBR600F3 forks. Has to be F3 forks. There were a few F2 forks in '94 that had cartridge internals, but I'm not positive they are the same as these. The internals will give you dual cartridges in each leg ( rebound and compression ), externally adjustable rebound clicker and externally adjustable preload. There is no external adjustment for compression. My first goal was to just use the F3 forks in our trees. F3 forks are also 41mm like ours. That would retain all factory geometry while also upgrading to larger, floating rotors. But it didn't work out. Fork spacing of our trees is too close together, so the stock F3 wheel would not fit back between them. The stock F3 wheel uses the same size tire and it's twisted 6 spoke pattern would be very close to a visual match. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 5 views. Moving on...let's see if we can just use our fork lowers on the F3 tubes and cartridges. The answer is, yes! Stock internals above, F3 bits below. A few thing to note here. 1- Springs are the same length(the picture is deceptive). Spacers are different lengths, but that's not important. We'll get back to this later. 2- F3 springs are progressively wound. 3- What anchors the forks together uses different size bolts. More on this directly below. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Here is the final fastener that actually holds the forks together. Above is the damper rod from the stock forks, below is the compression cartridge from the F3 forks. The stock bolt is a 10mm , the F3 bolt is 8mm. If you've ever changed forks seals/bushings...these are those bolts in the bottom of the fork lower that want to fight you. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Here's what it takes to do the swap. When you first disassemble the F3 forks this is what you will see at the bottom of the cartridge assembly. That threaded hole is where is the forks lower attaches. You need to remove that compression cartridge from the cartridge assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Just with your finger, push the cartridge in to the tube to reveal this circlip. Pop out that circlip. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Thread the bolt back in as a handle and pop it out. Easy peasy. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. This is what needs to be modified. That aluminum piece is just a seat for the cartridge assembly. It sandwiches between the fork lower and the compression cartridge. Since the F3 bolt was 8mm it also needs to be opened up to accept the 10mm bolt needed for the stock fork lowers. The bottom of the cartridge needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the stock bolt as well. This is the only things that need to be modified. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Before you do any work to the compression cartridge you need to fully disassemble it. You can not have ANY tiny amount of grit or debris in these components. We're talking surgical clean here. Try your best to not mar the outside of the valve. Use hardwood, sheets of copper, aluminum soft jaws on your vice....whatever it takes...but please avoid pipe wrenches, vise grips,etc. All you need to remove is the socket head ( allen head) screw that holds the valve assembly to the valve body. That bolt is threadlocked in place, so get a good grip on things, but you do not need to use an impact or anything crazy. Now you can drill & tap without damaging the valve assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. You do NOT need a lathe to do this! I never turned the machine on, I just used the lathe to help me align the parts for tapping. I tapped the valve by hand. But note the slip of copper protecting the valve body from the jaws of the chuck. Something like that is all you need. The new thread needs to be tapped to M10-1.0. 10mm diameter with a 1.0 thread pitch. Your tap should tell you what size drill bit to use. If not, a 8.5mm drill bit is the industry standard to use for a M10-1.0 hole. 8.5mm lands right between 5/16" and 11/32". I used a sharp 11/32" drill bit with perfect results. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Important! Do NOT drill all the way through the valve body. Only drill and tap as far as needed. You can see it clearly with all the parts in your hands, but remember that the other side of the valve body uses a smaller fastener to retain the valve assembly. You can see a small step at the base of the new M10-1.0 thread. That is where the smaller thread begins. New M10-1.0 thread. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Smaller thread on other side of the valve. 5mm? 6mm? I can't remember... Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. At this point, you are done modifying, all that's left to do is reassemble the forks as if they were bone stock F3 forks. You use the forks tubes, caps, internals and lower bushings from the F3 forks. The ONLY FZ07 parts you will use is the fork lowers, 10mm retaining bolts and upper fork bushing. The lower fork bushings from the F3 forks are interchangeable with your stock bushings, but they are actually properly sized! They are not the "too small" bushings Yamaha gave us. So, reuse the F3 lower bushings unless you already have properly fitting bushings that are in good, or better, shape than what is in your F3 donor forks. The upper F3 bushings are larger than our stock bushing, so be sure to reuse the stock upper bushing or you will bind the forks. Stock on the left, F3 on the right. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Finally assembly notes: Honda and the internet will gine you lots of differing suggestions on what fork oil and oil level to use. The thing to remember is that our bikes are a good 40lbs lighter than the F3 donor bike these forks came from. I originally went with 10w oil at 116mm oil level. It was harsh. I am currently using Maxima 52 oil at 120mm oil level and am happy with how the forks feel. Also, I am 220lbs in my birthday suit. I do not know what the stock spring rate is for F3 forks, but they springs work for me. However, remember earlier when I mentioned the springs were the same length? If you are happy with your current spring rates, just reuse your stock springs. The diameters are the same, so you're good to go. This post is strictly to show what small modification need to be done to install our stock fork lowers on to F3 fork tubes, and what oil weight and level works good for our bikes.. I am purposefully not going in to detail on how to disassemble and reassemble these two different types of forks. There's tons of info on that already. Just disassemble both, drill/tap the valve body and reassemble. Ride impressions: There is no doubt you are riding on late 90's sport bike fork technology at this point. Low speed compression bumps are a tad harsh. Not bone-jarring, just a tad harsh. But everything else is fantastic. Compression and rebound characteristics are VERY good. My stock forks would often jar me at speed. EG, hitting bridge expansion joints at highway speeds. That no longer happens. If you riding on a rough road at city speed (25-35 mph) the forks will feel a tad harsh....kinda like riding a sport bike! But at speed?....oh, at speed...that harder you push the plusher they feel. Throw the bike back and forth between corners and she's solid. No wallow. No wiggle. Just a nicely dampened front suspension. Travel: If you look up the specs on wheel travel on our bikes VS the F3 forks you will think this will give up fork travel. It won't. Yamaha lied. The ONLY way you can get the full 5.1" inches of travel out of the stock forks is if you completely compress the topout springs. Never gonna happen. Wheel travel is the same. Now...here's the "bad" art of this deal. The fork tubes are 2.25" longer than stock. So, if you just want to do this to your bike and leave everything else stock you will be rocking some extra fork tube above the top yoke. Like me! Yeah, you might look like a total squid noob with a lowered bike at first glance, but who cares. However....this also give you some pretty nice options! Been wanting to raise your bike and inch or so? Gotcha covered. Want to run legit clipons without some bulky,expensive adapter that bolts to the floppy stock bar mounts? Gotcha covered there, too! A set of 41mm clipons ( very common size) could be slid in to place and made to work oh,so easily. So are the long tubes a blessing or a cosmetic con? depends on what you need out of your bike. And yes, I did check for travel with so much tube exposed. You will not crash the fork lowers in to the bottom yokes. The bottom edge of the blue masking tape represents the forks completely bottomed out. Plenty of clearance. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. So, stock fork lowers in order to retain your original wheel and brakes. But add fully cartridge internal, extra height is wanted and the ability to mount clipons. For 100 bucks. I paid $75 for my forks off Craigslist and wasted some oil figuring out what worked good. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  8. 14 points
    DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.
  9. 13 points
    The dealer says October. I have 86 acres of farm land with 15 acres of woods so this is long overdue.
  10. 13 points
    8/15/2020 NYST photos....
  11. 13 points
    Note: The following are opinions. It is not based on scientific research but on experience and observation. Before I retired I had the good fortune to work the Sturgis Rally for a number of years. Because of this I had the unique opportunity to observe hundreds of thousands of similarly dressed rugged individualists attempt to operate motorcycles. That experience taught me two things. First was that many of them were inept at handling motorcycles and a vast majority of those honestly thought they were 'above avg' to 'excellent' riders when in fact they could not make a simple feet-up U turn in the full width of a 2 lane road. In talking to them at crash scenes, tip overs, fender benders and assorted mishaps I was appalled by the realization that they refused to practice or to learn or to seek instruction, frequently telling me that they thought their skills are "good enough", when clearly they were not. Second was that their focus and attention was frequently within the cockpit of the motorcycle instead of down range where it should be. When presented with situations that required divided attention, like pulling off a busy roadway into a busy gas station, their attention would shrink to their hand controls and they might very well crash straight into the fuel pumps or a car or another biker oblivious to their presence. Riders pulling away from a stop into traffic would pause and stare at the throttle, brake and clutch levers or at the ground directly in front of their motorcycle because they were overwhelmed and commence their action often with disastrous results. On to the free part. It costs nothing to stop in an empty parking lot or out of the way spot by yourself or better yet with other riders to offer critical input and PRACTICE riding. Braking. Turning. Avoidance maneuvers. Working with your control interfaces to make their operation intrinsic. Basic motorcycle control to familiarize yourself with your machine and it's capabilities. Two up if you ever take a loved one with. You owe it to your passenger to be better than 'good enough'. Occasionally practicing for problem #1 has the added benefit of taking care of problem #2, letting you safely enjoy the ride. The rest of us thank you. I realize that most of us here or that will read this are statistically not those I speak of. My hope is that we lead by example and are seen routinely practicing. That we take a friend or neighbor or other riding companion to the parking lot and learn together because I know my skills will never be good enough. Ride safe.
  12. 12 points
    We had the opportunity through Darren James to work with Trevor up at Flexi-glass on new bodywork for the FZ07 and MT07. The quality of the kit is amazing. The tank is molded off the FZ07 stock tank and uses the stock mounting locations without the flex or need for additional bracing of other kits on the market. Utilizing the current ZX10R wind screen. Bodywork is 2.0”narrower to avoid dragging and clearanced to avoid the exhaust in the lower. The mounting kit will be built by Robem and available on the website. Flexi-glass is proudly made in Canada with premium products. Cost estimated $800 upper, lower, tail, tank cover and fender plus shipping.
  13. 12 points
    I finally made it to New York Safety Track. I was invited to a private track day. This track is amazing with elevation changes, off camber turns and as many left as right turns. Beautiful location at the top of a mountain in NY State. The people were great and super friendly. This was one of the best track days that I’ve ever had. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend it. also, I absolutely F%ckin’ Love My FZ07 Ed
  14. 12 points
    Went for a quick ride today and all is good so far. Bike tracked perfectly with hands off the bars at 70 mph. The bike feels just as nimble with 7 inches added to the swingarm. I deleted the rear ABS. It was just easier since I needed a longer line. The stock shock is on until the custom valved Penske comes in. Probably another week.
  15. 12 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  16. 11 points
    Speedometer Scratch Fix – Cheap & Quick – Safe for Plastics By the photo below you can see how badly my speedometer/instrument cluster was scratched. I’ve always tried to clean it with a microfiber towel, but it’s taken it’s beating over 4 years and 30,000km. I wanted to post this because in my search travels I couldn’t find any solution that was detailed for a motorcycle. Hopefully people find this from now on. This combined with the reverse LCD screen made it appear much worse in the sunlight. So, I went to my local hardware store (Canadian Tire) and picked up a container of Maguire’s PLASTX. Other than that, we’ll need an applicator pad and soft cloth. I used some cotton cosmetic pads because they were closest to me. After working the product in until it was almost gone, I let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then wiped off with the cloth. Below is the result. Although not perfect because 2-3 of the deeper scratches couldn’t come out, I’m happy enough. It looks way better and not such a mess. I’ll post some closeup pictures below to further illustrate the effects.
  17. 11 points
  18. 11 points
    So I silently volunteered myself to be a guinea pig for the benefit of my fellow forum members. I think im the first person to slap the "new" 2018 rear shock on a first generation bike. I would like to get a few things out in the open before I give my thoughts. 1st, ive got just over 10,000 miles on my 2017 with stock suspension. Only change ive made is 10mm additional preload in the front forks-so i feel well qualified to have an opinion on the stock 2017 rear shock. It sucks. It really, really sucks. 2nd, im not a track rider or even really an advanced rider. 3rd, the 2018 shock is not track ready equipment. 4th, im still on the original bt023 tires. 5th, my bike is primarily a commuter. 55 miles daily with a mix of 80mph freeway and rutted chewed up city streets. However, ive burned through a couple hundred miles with this new shock and wanted to share my thoughts on this upgrade. Im 205lbs and 5 ft 9 for reference. The 2018 shock is FAR better at bump absorbing, road tracking and generally rear tire stability. I have good rear sag with the shock in the stock 4th click. I did some testing on the rebound adjuster and found for street use it seems to ride best right around the middle. When i brake hard and fast the nose only tips forward slightly. When i lean into 25mph darts across intersections, my back tire no longer feels like its skipping across the pavement. There are several turns on my way home from work that cross rail road tracks. Ive been hitting those same 40 mph(speed zone) turns at 55mph for almost 2 years now. Those railroad tracks would bump me off the seat and the bike would cycle up and down 2 or 3 times at least and wiggle unstably throught the turn. I just got used to lifting my bottom off the seat. With the new shock i hit those same turns at the same speed. The rear shock compresses and then pushes back down on the pavement. Doesnt bump me out of the seat and the bike doesnt wiggle while trying to settle itself. Ya know. Like a rear shock is supposed to. The bike feels exponentially more stable in all the corners ive tossed it into since i put the 2018 shock on. I also dont have to stand over the seat for small or even moderate bumps anymore. It tracks better, feels less squirelly in corners and is much more comfortable now. Also noticed it isnt as wiggly on the highway, perticularly when passing large vehicles. So in conclusion, no its not an ohlins. No its not a ktech or wilbers. But for the $270 they cost new or under $100 they can be found used(rare on ebay but they do come up) its a massive improvement to the whole experience. And unlike the cbr shock it requires no airbox mods. For the price on a street ridden bike id do it again. Please if anyone has any questions im happy to answer them. TLDR-the 2018 rear shock is way better than the 2015-2017 rear shock and isnt expensive. Worth considering if you want to improve the bike but dont have $500 to buy something nicer and arent planning to hit the track.
  19. 11 points
    Hi All, I am fairly new to the forum, been around on the T700 one and I thought I join this one as well as there is a lot of things to learn from people who have used the cp2 engine for years now. My bike is a 2019 tenere 700, which I've converted to a supermoto since 2k miles and have been riding and improving the bike since then... Most fun I've had on two wheels to be fair and I don't plant on selling but keep looking of ways to improve the bike.... Wheels : Excel Takasaga 5.0 and 3.0 inch with 160 60 and 120 70 tyres.... Front mt10 mudguard, front mt07 sprocket, I can't remember the size... Suspension : front and back upgraded springs. Brakes : stock for now... I am waiting for the Beringer calliper to arrive any day now, it has been 5 weeks... All the other parts to convert a single disc have been purchased. And I will do an abs pump bypass as well. Engine is stock apart from the end can and this is where I will be starting to look at once the brakes are fitted and I'm happy with them. Looking to do some intake mods thanks to @AP996 for his help into guiding me towards his solution for the intake. Once the engine breads better and the tuning has been done with software I will get some cams and headers. Plan for the engine is to have a healthy power band and around 80 85hp to the wheel. Things I have added that make the bike nicer to ride : 1 finger clutch from camel adv, healtech quickshifter which is addictive and makes so much sense coming out of turns... Different levers, rally seat for 910mm height.. Heated grips, shorter Sport screen... For me this bike is perfect as I am very tall 196cm and long legs so there isn't a lot of options out there that can be as comfortable and as nimble as the t7. Would like to reduce the weight of the bike to 180kg wet but that is a long term goal and it should be achievable with some nice titanium mods, battery and abs pump removal once a module comes a long like on the r6 or r1. I'll let the pictures do the talking. Aleks
  20. 11 points
    Thanks to our friend @klx678 for some great efforts during the research of this front brake mod, and some more wisdom from @mossrider along the way. This is a front brake only mod, nothing is changed about the rear brake. And best to our friend @D.A. who continues recovering from a nasty highside practicing knee dragging Stock bike OEM master cylinder is 15mm and caliper pistons are 27/30mm for a hydraulic area ratio of about 29:1 (an entry level brake). This Brembo 17RCS mod pushes that ratio to about 22:1. Before going there I want to say please do the background work for yourself and just know what you are about for this one. I cover the controls at all times, and use two finger clutch and one finger braking - everything I say in this mod is from that perspective. This mod has been tested with the ABS disabled and enabled by fuse pulling (without loss of speedo). I run without the ABS most of the time. Prerequisite EBC HH Brake Pads Front: EBC FA252HH Key parts as reviewed 110.C740.40 | Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta Standard (long lever) | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo 110.A263.85-1 | Brembo RCS reservoir kit in smoke | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo Spieglerusa.com Phase 1 - connect brembo to abs "IN" port with new line, use bike's existing rubber brake lines from abs "OUT" port down to calipers 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 560mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x 20-00001-11 (single banjo bolt M10x1.0 in silver anodized for Brembo connection) 6 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum Phase 2 - replace brake lines from abs "out" port to calipers with braided stainless steel 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 736mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 515mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on both ends. 10 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum 1 x 20-00102-15 , double banjo bolt M10x1.25 1 x 20-00002-15 , banjo bolt M10x1.25 Support parts/extra replacements 6219613 | copper crush washers | Qty 15 | kurveygirl.com 105.1502.10 | Brembo bleed screw rubber cap | Qty 3 | kurveygirl.com 110.A263.89 | Brembo replacement RCS cap and flag | Qty 2 | kurveygirl.com 90464-18002 | Qty 2 Genuine Yamaha Grommet Tab Locator | Yamaha Wire-M187-F110 | Male .187" to Female .110" Conversion wire (brake switch wire-up w/no cutting of bike harness | Qty 2 | T-Molding.com Spiegler created a kit S-YA0324 from my brake line parts list - thank you! After I finished this mod and was confident in the lengths and materials was good to go, Spiegler was great and asked if they could create a "kit" by part number called the "Yamaha XSR700 ABS Front Brake Line Kit" for Brembo RCS master cylinders, so anyone who wants to do this mod can have a single Spiegler part number that takes you to the Spiegler ordering page for this kit, where you choose the color of lines and fittings and Spiegler will make sure you get all the other brake line parts you need to do this mod using my line dimensions, including extras like new grommets on the lines (so you don't have to re-use the Yamaha grommets like I did). Go to the Spiegler home page and search for this part number "S-YA0324", you will find some pics of my bike there to reference for how to route lines and stuff. You choose the colors for the brake line & fittings, Spiegler sends you the right brake lines, fittings/angles, with grommets ready to go. Thank you Spiegler and Matthias Schaub http://mschaub@spieglerusa.com, he was a great help. Installation You can install the 17RCS with only one new brake line from Speigler, that's the "Phase 1" mod with only 1 new braided ss brake line connecting the Brembo 17RCS to the abs "IN" port (and leave the rest of the front brake lines the stock OEM rubber). I prototype tested the bike in this Phase 1 configuration, then pulled it down and did the Phase 2 where all OEM front brake lines are pulled and replaced by Spiegler braided stainless steel lines. You can install this brake in a conventional handlebar/control location, or if you are like me you may want to locate the 17RCS exactly in a certain position relative to the grip, and move the starter/harzard lights control housing up the handler bar to make room for what matters. Brake light switch included is good quality, and using the "Wire-M187-F110" spade flag connector wires you can attach it to the bikes harness without cutting the harness at all, the two "flag" type connectors for the existing brake can be plugged into these "Wire-M187-F110" wires and then that short piece of adapter wire can be "clamped" onto the Brembo brake light switch wires from the RCS17 switch. Brake light function is flawless, just do a good job of waterproofing, I used a "jacket" of heat shrink tubing shrunk "partially" to make a more snug & watertight .187 flag connections for these handlebar brake wires. Line Routing Let's stop dragging that abs sensor wire down the left fork leg to the left caliper, back up and over the fender, and down to the right caliper where the wheel sensor is located. In this mod, the Spiegler line from the abs "out" port travels down the right fork leg to the right caliper together with the abs sensor cable to the double banjo bolt connection, then the brake line jumps over the fender to connect to the left brake caliper via single banjo bolt. The brake line passes thru the bike's grommet locator (rigid metal bracket under the triple tree). It "skips" passing thru the 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator at the bottom of the triple tree, only the abs sensor wire is passed thru this locator. If you try to pass the braided stainless steel brake line thru both of these locators at the bottom of the triple tree like OEM did with the rubber brake lines, it would create a totally unnecessary and unwanted sharp bend in the Spiegler line. The brake line is secured in the bike's rigid metal bracket grommet locator under the triple tree by "reusing" the grommet from the OEM original rubber line (I removed it and reused it, but if you order from Spiegler they will slide this rubber grommet on the line for you, no need to reuse). I increased the "grip" that this grommet has on the Spiegler line, by cutting a small piece of rubber from an old inner tube (about 1/4" wide and long enough to go around the Spiegler brake line one time) and then wrapped the "reused" original grommet around that inner tube wrap. The important thing is that the Spiegler line is secured at this point so it can not slide up or down - that ensures the proper length down to the caliper that will flex with the suspension is always maintained. Also the "over the fender" brake line does not scuff or touch the plastic fender, and the brake line coming down the fork leg is nicely supported and "stout" enough so it does not flap around in the airstream at speed. The abs sensor wire is "zip tied" to the Spiegler brake line traveling down the right fork to the right caliper. The abs sensor wire has a grommet that was originally used to hold the sensor wire in place as it passed thru a metal locator bracket at the left caliper. This abs grommet on the sensor wire is in just the right place to now be moved up to the rigid metal locator bracket under the triple tree and clamped along with the brake line at this securing point. The abs wire then travels on up thru the Yamaha 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator and on up the triple tree to the abs. At the abs, this sensor wire now will have a surplus of length before it plugs into the wiring harness next to the abs unit under the right fuel tank panel. You can nicely protect this extra length by wrapping two loops around the wire retaining bracket at the frame yoke that is used to keep the bike's electrical harness from rubbing the frame when turning the bike. Also before I plugged this abs sensor wire back into the wiring harness, I took about 3" of large "shrink wrap" and placed it over this abs sensor wire connector end with a zip tie (but do not shrink it), to create a more waterproof "boot" around the connector. After plugging the connector into the harness, this extra boot makes a much better waterproof cover for that abs connection. Also, at this same location at the yoke of the triple tree/frame, I used a wrap of inner tube to add extra protection for the bike's wiring harness that passes thru this location (where the Speigler brake lines are moving and flexing when the bike is steered). One nice wrap around the wiring harness with the rubber inner tube piece, zip tie it in place, and the harness is protected from those flexing brake lines that might chaffe away at the harness without protection. Banjos at the ABS I think reusing the stock banjo bolts is best approach, the allen heads are easier to get a wrench on because close clearance with fuel tank above abs and they are steel so no worries reusing. I used (always new) copper crush washers (aluminum is fine too), and I picked some that were .5mm thick, because Spiegler banjo fittings are a little "taller" than the oem fittings, using a .5mm washer gives some length back to the banjo bolt threads screwing into the abs unit. Finger tighten both IN and OUT line banjos at abs and check all your routing (my pics will help) and clearance behind the air scoop (put scoop on and check the banjo positions) before you commit and tighten down on the crush washers. 17RCS Corsa Corta Review Quality, fit, and finish is of course the "cat's meow". It is in a way, like Brembo likes to suggest, a work of art - but I don't give squat for looks I want results. 17RCS delivers. You could order the 17RCS standard version, or the 17RCS Corsa Corta. I changed my mind at the last minute and ordered the Corsa Corta, you pick up an adjustable "free play" adjuster. Damn it turned out to be my favorite thing among everything that is a favorite on the Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta. You can go look at features of this front brake master cylinder all over the web, please do, I will not repeat any of it here except to say what I like about the 17RCS. Expect to have more time and effort involved in brake bleeding and testing for weeping banjos & tightening to seal those crush washers. I used a reverse brake bleeder "V5 DIY 2104-B Brake Bleeder" available from Pheonix Systems or from NAPA sold under "Carlyle Tools" banner, or on the web everywhere car parts are sold. Test your brakes every night for a week after bleeding by doing this (to remove additional air from system AND show any "weeping" from banjo crush washers). At night you can use a couple zip ties (cable ties) to hold the lever under moderate braking pressure all night like you were squeezing the lever firmly - firmly but no need for crushing force pulling the lever. In the morning, hold the lever at this squeezed location and cut the zip tie, then slowly release the lever. It can "suck" any accumulated air bubbles at the top of the system back into the master cylinder where they travel up into the brake reservoir. It helps get air out of the system AND you can go look closely at all the banjos, if they are leaking go slow but tighten them a very little amount until they stop leaking each time you check and find weeping. You know what to do. I also repeatedly bleed the 17RCS first every day after releasing the zip tie (yes, the 17RCS has it's own bleeder screw on the master cylinder body), and then bleed off the top of the right caliper where the new "double" banjo bolt is, and then the left caliper where the "single" banjo bolt is. Pump off the left caliper to force any air in the line that jumps over the fender (and is trapped in the line over the fender) out of the system. Enough about bleeding, you know. Initial Bite You control how much free play there is in the lever before hydraulic brake pressure begins (only on the Corsa Corta). I really like running it with very little free play, as soon as I begin to pull with my finger I'm into the initial bite, you may hate that but hey, that's why it's adjustable. Brake character It's linear. I mean completely linear, the initial bite all the way to howling tire (I run with the ABS disabled much of the time). The stock lever, you begin pulling, and pulling, and pulling and still not getting anywhere keep pulling then it starts to build but not enough, you keep pulling, pulling until you are really standing on it and finally you get the serious increasing brake pressure needed for serious stopping or emergency. Not that way at all with the 17RCS. From the initial first bite, there is much less additional lever movement. As the lever moves, the braking force builds rapidly but at the same increasing rate as a function of lever movement. And there is no softness, anywhere. It feels firm all the time, even when only applying a small braking force. Firm does not mean "hard" to pull. It means every increase in lever movement must be intentional by the rider and you feel the result, even though it gives the impression that you are not pulling any harder, you simply are intentionally braking. With the ABS disabled, one finger braking can make that wheel howl, but it is not in any way a "touchy" or "grabby" brake. I have to squeeze with conscious intention to stop, but I can achieve even emergency stops with my index finger. And the feel is superb - it's interesting how a firm purposeful master cylinder also provides so much more confidence and feedback while still being linear and firm when compared to the entry level OEM brake feel. I know what is going on at the tire, I feel it thru my finger as well as all my other riding senses. I can really feel what's happening, that's what it's like. This brake and you You could hate everything about this brake that I like. It's how I brake and what I have always preferred in brakes, I go to lengths to make front brakes on previous bikes work somewhat like this one. But this is the easy way to get everything I want, I don't have to keep trying out my options to see how close I am to what I like. This brake puts me there, and you may hate that place. There, that is my disclaimer, don't do this because it will kill you and like all my mods, they all cause athletes foot fungus. My hand strength is diminishing because reasons, this 17RCS with adjustable lever leverage will keep me riding for some time to come. @klx678 did me a great favor jumping into my design with both feet early on and taking it to Brembo to get them to "sign off" on this ABS bike application & fitment, thank you amigo. I'm expecting there will be things I remember need said to help explain, so I will edit post as needed to keep it straight
  21. 11 points
    R1m LED turnsignal mirrors Sharkskinz upper fairing (modified) Eagle lights daymaker LED headlight / housing Ermax rear cowling Ermax belly pan Yoshimura y-series full system Rear sets Woodcraft clip ons with 3" drop So far Hand painted by yours truly
  22. 11 points
    Pics from last weekends track day event hosted by TDW. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and learning things every lap. I'm getting close to the edge of the rear tire so I think I'll need to add a rear link to jack the back end up. Bike worked flawlessly except in one session I had fuel leaking out the Vortex gas cap. I think I just didn't click it down completely because it didn't leak at all the second day.
  23. 11 points
    I really took my time doing this and tried to document it as best I could. I hope this helps someone. If you've read this far, you should know that I'm not an expert so I apologize if I got something wrong above - hence the disclaimer at the start. But I did follow the manual to the letter, and my machine did indeed start up and runs just fine after the procedure. I will say that I actually screwed up and turned the crankshaft before I put the chain tensioner on (like an idiot!), so I had to retime the engine using the alignment marks without the aid of my witness marks. But my motor didn't blow up in the end!
  24. 10 points
    In a thread earlier today the subject of torque wrenches came up and I figured I’d do a write up of basic information for those new to the subject. Disclaimer: I am by no means an expert on tools but I have been using mechanic’s tools since I was old enough to sit on the fender with my feet in the wheel wells helping my dad change spark plugs & oil on the family vehicles. I also spent a couple years back in the ‘80s learning motorcycle mechanics at the local Vo-Tech school as well as working for a time in a local motorcycle shop. If you notice any missing, incomplete or incorrect information below please let me know and I’ll update accordingly. Torque wrench 101 This will cover the selection, care, use & feeding of torque wrenches. Purpose of a torque wrench: The purpose of a torque wrench is to ensure that fasteners are tightened to a proper level to help ensure that they will hold securely and not vibrate loose. They also ensuring that fasteners are not too tight to prevent damage to mating surfaces or strip threads from over tightening. Selecting the proper Torque Wrench: Torque wrenches come in many sizes, shapes, styles, price and torque ranges. There are 3 main types of torque wrench styles, beam, click, and digital. There are pros and cons of all three styles. I’ll try to cover the basics of each below: Defection/Beam Style: This style is normally the more economical and uses a mechanical pointer to indicate the amount of torque being applied that is read on a plate with a predetermined set of marks that needs to be read while applying pressure to the fastener. Variants can use a dial gauge instead of a pointer arm. Pros: This style is normally more economical at least for the basic beam style. The ones with dials are normally more expensive. Simplest design. Fewer things that can go wrong. No batteries required Cons: Requires more room to use due to the amount of space needed for the tool itself as well needing to view gauge while using. Not for low light situations due to requirement to view gauge while using. Harder to be accurate due to viewing needing to be at the correct angle. Non-ratcheting meaning slower to use in most cases due to having to reposition the wrench as you tighten. Click Style: A Click style torque wrench uses a preset of the wanted torque limit that gives an audible and physically felt “click” when the dialed-up limit is reached. Most come with both ft-lbs & Nm indicators. Most come in a shape very much like thick handled ratchet. The requested torque value is set by twisting the lockable handle to either raise or lower the setting. Alternately There are click style torque screwdrivers shaped more like a ratcheting screwdriver but still function the same as the ratchet style. They are normally used for quite small torque values. I have one that measures from 10-50 In-lbs. These are used for screws more often than bolts. They are popular in hobbies requiring smaller torque values such as in gunsmithing. Pros: Generally more accurate than a beam style since a specific torque value can be set. More compact allowing it to get into tighter locations. Easier low/no light settings use. No batteries required. Ratcheting action speeds repositioning unlike the beam style. Physically felt “break/click” when set torque value is reached so works well in a loud environment. Cons: More mechanically complex than a beam style making it somewhat less durable than a beam style. Requires infrequent recalibration by professionals for best long-term accuracy which will cost money and loss of use of the tool while waiting for the recalibration to be completed. That said, for home use a click style torque wrench can go many years between recalibrations depending on the amount of use it gets. Generally more expensive than a comparable beam style. Digital Style: Alternatively there are cube shaped Digital torque adapters that can be used on your existing ratchet/breaker bar if so desired. A digital style torque wrench works in a similar fashion and has the same general physical layout as the Click style. The requested torque value and scale used is set on an LCD screen via buttons. When the specified torque value is reached it will use an audible alert to let you know. They are generally more accurate and faster to set the torque value but are generally more expensive than either of the other styles. Older generations of digital torque wrenches were not always robust or as accurate as the digital torque wrenches of today. Pros: Ratcheting Function Quickly set preferred scale and torque value. Audible tone when set value is reached. Memory functions. Models available with backlit displays are easier to read making it good for low light environments. Can be generally recalibrated at home following instructions included with the wrench. Cons: No felt break when the preset value is reached like a “click” style so not as useful in a noisy environment. Requires batteries. Generally, more expensive than click and beam styles but getting more economical as time passes. Common to all styles: All styles come in a wide array of price points. In general you get what you pay for. A quality torque wrench should last you a lifetime and hold its accuracy longer. So, consider spending a little more if you can. A higher price will generally get you finer teeth on the ratchet mechanisms, and more robust internals that will be more accurate and hold calibration longer as well as smoother operation in general when setting the torque value. The extreme ends of a wrench’s stated working range is where a wrench will be the least accurate. So choose one where the most frequently needed torque values are more towards the center of the working range for maximum accuracy. As an example, I have three torque wrenches that have the following ranges to handle my needs: A 1/4in hex drive click style torque bit driver with a range of 10-50in-lbs (0-6Nm) A 3/8in drive click style with a range of 5-75ft-lbs (7-101Nm) A 1/2in drive click style with a range of 20-150ft-lbs (27-203Nm) General usage information: Note that the actual amount of torque applied, for a given setting, will vary depending on whether the threads are lubricated or dry. If using a vehicle manual’s specified torque setting note whether the torque value is for a wet or dry fastener. Never use a torque wrench to loosen a fastener. That’s the job of your standard ratchet/wrench/breaker bar. The torque wrenches with reversible ratchets are for tightening fasteners with reverse threads. Using a torque wrench to loosen a fastener adds unwarranted stress, wear and tear. Always remember that the torque wrench is a precision tool. Handle it with care. Store it in the case it came with when applicable. Protect it from the elements. General guidelines to torque wrench use: Basic steps for use: 1) After selecting a torque wrench of the required range, either note on the beam scale or dial in/ adjust to the correct torque setting needed following the tool manual’s instructions. 2) Choose the proper sized socket for the fastener. Preferably use a six-side socket instead of a twelve-sided socket to lessen the likelihood of rounding the corners of the bolt/nut under high torque settings. If an extension is needed use the shortest one that will do the job. This will lessen the likelihood of the socket slipping off the bolt/nut. 3) Use one hand to stabilize the head of the wrench while using the other hand to apply slow steady pressure to the handle of the wrench until the requested torque value is reached. 4) Release the pressure applied to the wrench. And then repeat step 3 above. This step is optional. There is never-ending debate on the usefulness of it. 5) In the case of a Click style torque wrench, dial the torque value back down to its lowest setting after use to remove strain from the internal mechanisms. This will prepare the wrench for storage. If you're still reading, Thanks for taking the time. It's appreciated. If you have any questions we'll try to help if we can. Again if you see anything that needs corrected, updated or added please don't be shy.
  25. 10 points
    A video of my first stoppie and it wasn't planned The practice I've done saved me from what could have been a very bad day. When I realized I needed to stop as quickly as possible, I didn't underbrake or panic and lock up the brakes. Instead I was able to rely purely on my muscle memory of emergency braking. When the car was in my path it wasn't scary and it felt like another braking exercise. I simply gradually but quickly applied more and more brake pressure until I felt the rear wheel lift up. Next time you go for a ride, find an empty road in good condition and practice fast progressive braking. You don't want the first time you have to use your maximum braking potential to be a trial by fire.
  26. 10 points
    Going to NJMP tomorrow for the first track day of the year. Any of you Hosers going? Can't wait to feel the new Hord Airbox and Tune. Ed
  27. 10 points
    Things went great yesterday. The weather held out, mid 70s and sunny. They over $300k in track repairs over the winter. Fixed cracks, patched bad sections and most importantly fixed drainage issues. They also paved the parking areas (used to be grass/dirt/mud) so parking and set up was good. It was a light day for the first event. Instead of 4 15-minute session, they gave us 3 20-minute sessions by combining the 2 fastest groups. So 8 run sessions for the day. The track improvements were noticeable. Completely dry and no rough sections. Grip on the new patches was good. I had set up my sag settings with my new Slacker Tool. I also played with compression settings, went a little softer front and rear. The bike felt good and rear tire pattern looked good and consistent across the rear tire. The Q4's felt great too. The new Hord Airbox and Tune were noticeable, especially on the long main straight, the engine just kept pulling. There is a noticeable intake growl above half throttle. That combined with the Akra Ti sounds great. I rode well and felt good for the first event after the winter layover. My son rode well on his SV 650. Making noticeable improvements with body position and the right line. He spent the afternoon working with a coach and had a really good day too. At lunch, a rider with a very well set up 3rd gen SV 650 came over to talk to me. He asked what was done to my FZ. I thought this seemed odd, because he had a well set up SV and all of the mods on my FZ are visible and obvious. Then he said no, what did you do internally to the engine, I said nothing and he looked more puzzled. He said that he could get right up to my rear wheel in the tight areas, but I would walk him on every straight. He said his SV was dynoed at 74 RWP. He asked what mine was. My bike has never been dynoed, so I said" I dunno, more than 74?" He just seemed puzzled that my bike appeared to be that much faster. It made me feel good about my set up and helped validate my butt dyno results. The rider was a cool guy, we made friends and talked quite a bit. Got to ride with my 75 year old track buddy and made a few new friends. All in all a good day. Ed
  28. 10 points
    Even though this is a promo, I find it interesting as a roadracing fanatic I thought I'd share: I hope you enjoy it.
  29. 10 points
    I wish I had documented the progress as I went. Better late than never.... I can honestly say that I'm "done" modding my FZ-07. I'm 50 years old, I a neck fusion done a few years ago. That made riding my KTM RC390 on the track impossible, as I couldn't lift my head up high enough to see where I was going . I needed a bike with a more upright riding position. I ordered a KTM Duke 390, and pulled the "go-fast" parts off my RC (to but on the new Duke). After several missed deliver dates, I bought a brand new "carry-over" 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 instead (two weeks before my first track day of the 2017 season). In hindsight, I'm glad the deliver dates got missed. I have never been as happy with ANY bike in the last 40+ years of riding. This bike was mostly going to be used on the track. I did sometimes street ride it though. This year the bike is my dedicated track-only bike. I didn't even license it for 2020, as I picked up a new 2019 Yamaha R3 for the street last fall. My neck can tolerate the surprisingly neutral riding position of the R3 on the street. Here's a list of all the mods I've done over the last three years, as well as some pictures. Let me know what you think . - Michelin Power Cup 2 (front & rear) - K-Tech Razor-R shock - Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 front end - Preload adjusters for the forks - Hordpower intake - Akrapovic Ti exhaust - 2WDW ECU flash - Speigler braided brake lines (front & rear) - Woodcraft rear sets - Woodcraft water pump slider - Vortex 520 chain & sprockets - T-Rex crash protection (full kit) - Renthal "ultra-low" bars - Tech spec tank grippers - OEM Yamaha seat cowl - "Engine Ice" coolant - Cheap Ebay windshield (used as a number plate) *required at some track days* I'm probably forgetting a few things as well? It took me a while to get the suspension set-up correctly, but it was worth it! I've never been happier on a track as I am on this bike. I had a lot of fun putting all this together. I'm too far into bike to ever sell it. Last summer I was offered $10K for it (from a guy with too much money). I politely declined-
  30. 10 points
    Adjustment Before beginning, your engine should be stone cold and in the service position with all marks aligned as detailed above. Recheck your valve clearances and be sure your measurements are correct. Annotate your findings as detailed above. Draw out a diagram of all eight valves separated by piston side and exhaust/intake side, and left/right side. Yamaha's suggestion is below (1). Calculate the hypothetical shim adjustment value. We will add this to the actual shim that's under the bucket to get the new shim size. An example is in the diagram above. Measured shim value - desired clearance = hypothetical shim adjustment Now we have to remove the cam chain tensioner, the cam chain, the camshafts, the valve lifters and shims, measure the shims, and replace the shims with the new correct shims. Begin by using a zip tie or mechanic's wire to secure the cam chain to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase (1). Remove the cam chain tensioner next. Begin by removing the cover bolt on the cam chain tensioner (1). Then insert a 3mm hex key and begin twisting counter clockwise until it can't be turned anymore (2). This will retract the cam chain tensioner back into itself so that it relieves pressure applied to the cam chain. The hex key stays in the tensioner during this process. If it is removed, the tensioner will immediately SNAP back out, so keep the hex key in place! You might need a trimmed or short key to accomplish this (see the thread linked above), because the airbox will be in your way as you try to unfasten the 2 hex bolts that hold the tensioner onto the block, so you have to use a hex key instead of a ratchet + socket. But then the arm of the hex key can't reach over the inserted 3mm hex key unless the 3mm is trimmed down. Also, even when wound back completely, the tensioner will still be in contact with the chain, pressing back on the tensioner. That means as you remove the bolts, they may be under some tension. Take your time and don't force anything. Once you have the tensioner off the block, rest it gently on something soft and use a careful touch with the gasket if you plan on reusing it. REMINDER do NOT move the crankshaft now that the cam chain tensioner has been removed. If you do, the cam chain will skip teeth, moving the crankshaft out of time from the valve train. Mark the chain pins and sprocket teeth with corresponding witness marks (1, 2). Double check all 3 timing marks before you do this. This will be your target when reassembling. Begin removing the cam caps (1). Start with the intake cap, then the exhaust cap. Remove the bolts in a crisscross order working from the outside inwards. Crack the bolt loose then move on to the next diagonally. Then return to the first side and crack that one loose, go diagonally to the other side, then crack the middle bolt on the opposite side from where you started, then get the last one. I removed the bolts evenly, about 1/2 turn at a time for each bolt following that pattern. I'm not sure if that level of detail is necessary, but I can say you definitely need to be even removing the bolts. You want to avoid the cap bending at all. A bent cap will apply uneven pressure to the camshaft journals and ruin the camshaft and thus the engine. Remove the cam chain from the sprockets - make sure it is fastened to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase! Then remove the camshafts and put them on something soft (1, 2). Now the valve lifters are exposed (1). Stuff a rag into the cam chain area to avoid anything falling into the crankcase (2). Identify the valve shims that need to be replaced. Work one valve at a time to avoid messing up which shim came from where. Pull the valve lifter and valve shim out with an extendable magnet (3). It should capture both the lifter and the shim. Be very, very careful that the shim does not fall into the engine - plug everything up! Working one valve at a time, take out the shim from the follower. The shims probably have the measurement laser etched into them, but you should still check with your calipers (1). Record the measurement of the existing shim into your diagram from earlier. Now that you've measured the existing incorrectly sized shim, calculate the new shim size (1,2). Add the hypothetical shim adjustment value calculated before to the measured shim size to get the correct shim size. Round it if necessary to get a size you actually have using the table below or your own judgement. When making this adjustment, bear in mind that you should be adjusting to the higher (looser) end of the specification range. The valve train will wear over time and make the clearance smaller and smaller until you need to do this again. Do yourself a favor and don't adjust the valve clearance to the smaller (tighter) end of the specification. (Measured clearance - Desired clearance) + Installed shim size = new shim size Coat the new valve shim with assembly lube (1) - the red stuff, technically speaking molybdenum disulfide based lubricant. Install the shim in the depression on the valve making absolutely sure the shim is in place square, not crooked (2). You'll feel it click into place. Coat the valve lifter ("bucket") with engine oil and replace over the shim you just installed. Then move on to the next valve that needs attention, repeating the process you just followed. When you're done replacing the valve shims, it's time to replace the camshafts, cam caps, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. Then you'll check your work by rotating the engine, rechecking the clearances, and if you're satisfied, button it all back up. Start that process by placing the camshafts back where you found them. Begin with the exhaust camshaft (1). Put the timing mark parallel with the cylinder head again. Grab the chain and drape it over the sprocket, matching the witness marks you made on the chain pin and tooth. Two things are important here: 1. You need to make sure the chain is as tight as possible on the exhaust side while draping the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket; and 2. do not pull the chain hard enough to move the crankshaft! These are competing goals, so take your time here and be sure the marks all line up. Remember that the cam chain tensioner can only apply tension on one side (the intake side) of the cam chain, so that's why we are pulling the exhaust side tight without moving the crankshaft. Coat the camshaft cap journals and the camshaft journals with assembly lube (1,2 - ignore that the intake cam is in place in this photo!). Coat the cap bolts in engine oil. Replace the exhaust camshaft cap, pressing gently until the cap snaps into place. Be very careful placing the bolts into their holes, taking care not to drop them into the crankcase! Tighten the camshaft cap from the inside out (the opposite of when we removed it), tightening in stages so that it is evenly applied. Be sure your witness marks are aligned! It is very important that the caps are torqued evenly and properly. I finger-tightened them 1/2 turn at a time following the crisscross pattern described in the last post until they were all finger-tight. Then I got the 1/4" torque wrench and continued turning each 1/2 turn until they were all torqued properly. The mistake to be made here is unevenly tightening the caps and warping them slightly. My intake cap was actually slightly warped from the factory, but I compensated by tightening the lifted side an extra full turn before resuming the gradual 1/2 turn process. The cap bolts for both sides are to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Install the intake camshaft, aligning the markings with the cylinder head edge (1). Again drape the chain over top of the sprocket, aligning your witness marks. Zip tie the chain to the intake sprocket by putting a tie through the holes in the sprocket. This is to ensure the chain doesn't skip as the intake cap and cam chain tensioner are being installed. Do not forget to cut these off when you're done, and when you do, do not let the tie fall into the crankcase! Replace the cam chain tensioner. It should still have the hex key inserted all the way, retracting the tensioner into itself. If it isn't retract it now by inserting a trimmed-down 3mm hex key and turning it counter clockwise until it stops (1). Make sure the gasket is attached with the protruding tab facing upwards and insert it into the block. Replace the 5mm hex bolts and begin tightening them down while the key is still inserted into the tensioner. Tighten them both to 10Nm or 7.2lbft. When you're certain the cap bolts are all torqued properly and that the alignment marks and witness marks are all aligned, go ahead and pull the hex key out. This will snap the actuator forward, tensioning the chain. This is what the zip ties were for. Once it's snapped out, cut the zip ties around the sprockets while holding the tie so they don't fall into the engine. Hopefully your chain didn't skip any teeth. Now that the camshafts are installed, the camshaft caps are installed, the cam chain tensioner is installed, and all of the marks are aligned, we can rotate the engine counter clockwise again. Turn it over maybe 5 times to spread the assembly lube and seat all of the parts. Now remeasure your clearances using the steps you followed earlier. The clearances should be as you calculated them unless you made a mistake measuring the first time. If something is wrong, now is the time to disassemble and make it right. If the clearances are as expected, turn the engine over a few more times until you're satisfied, and replace everything you removed. When replacing the valve cover, having all of the wiring zip tied up to the frame really helps. I had to dab some grease into the channel molded into the valve cover to get the gasket to stay put in the cover while finagling the cover over the head again. If you do this, apply it sparingly and wipe off any excess that smushes out of the sides. You should use gasket sealer to do this but I didn't want the rubber to stick permanently. To be clear, do not put any sealant between the rubber gasket and the cylinder head! That interface should be bone dry and clean. You'll have to push in one end of the cover, then pivot up the other end of the cover up and over the camshaft caps. The crankcase breather hose connection is a real bitch because it interferes with the useless long bolts on the ECU tray above the engine. Wear some gloves. When it's time to tighten the valve cover, tighten in stages to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Reinstall the crankshaft end cover making sure the rubber O-ring is clean (10Nm or 7.2lbft), and the timing mark access bolt (15Nm or 11lbft). Install the cam chain cover bolt (7Nm or 5.1lbft). Replace everything else you took off. Remember to twist your gas tank back the way it came, and don't forget to plug in the fuel pump, the air sensor (the plug on the front of the gas tank), the fan motor, and the ignition coils back to their original places. You just saved a few hundred bucks, and more importantly, you've earned your man card. Have a beer (or 4) to celebrate!
  31. 9 points
    So now that my 07 is my dedicated track-only bike, I thought I should add an oil-containment belly pan for 2021. I found a manufacture called "Airtech" that builds generic body parts. I pulled some measurements, and ordered one. They make one called the "OCP1" that fit nearly perfect. They make an OCP1L (long), and a OCP1S (short) as well. I went with the standard length, and I only had to trim about 3/8" to make room for the exhaust. I made my own brackets out of aluminum flat stock from my local hardware store. It comes standard in white. As per Airtech, they suggested I use a spray-on bed liner for paint. Seems like a pretty good option so far? I never wanted a belly pan, and prefer the naked-bike look.... What do you guys think?
  32. 9 points
    Hi i take my bike to test again this past Sunday and we make new numbers and new Personal Record 10.70@119 in 93 oct. I want to make 10.5 in 93 oct then use Mr12 again. I use Mr12 before and make 10.86@119 now with use 93 oct https://instagram.com/arturomt07?igshid=aoi4qkef5cnm
  33. 9 points
    Well a bizarre 2020 is fast coming to a close but that just means next season is just around the corner. I piled up the last 5 seasons assemblage of toys for it's new owner, arriving in the great white north from Birmingham on Sunday. (We had snow today) I spent a day freshening it up a bit for it's journey. Farewell old friend. And drug this home for something to do over the winter. One of its owners 2 RC-51's. This one was raced years ago and has sat idle and neglected in the back corner of the garage for 10 years. It will be put back on the road in street legal trim so it's owner and his son can ride them together on weekends. Aside from this and a few other short term projects you just never know what will roll outta the shop come spring
  34. 9 points
    Well P1 was cut short by a red flag incident but we got a good idea of what's what in the 3 laps we got. Q1 was good, we put it on the outside of row 3 in 9th. We have another swing at the pinatas tomorrow so we'll see if we can improve. Greetings from Road America!
  35. 9 points
    I decided to use Tyga's silencers that are used on their VFR400 kit. The current plan is to mount one on each side just below the passenger pegs.
  36. 9 points
    So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.
  37. 9 points
    95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.
  38. 9 points
    So I picked this up from a buddy, (read confiscated, lol) to build another racebike for a friend who says to me, "can you replicate your bike but with any upgrades or changes you'd make after racing yours for 4 seasons?". Hmm, says I, let me look into this. A few texts and late nite calls to some track friends and vendors and we're off and running. Pulled the motor and head for shipment to Zoran at TWF Racing, Looks like another excellent starting point. Getting the head ported, Web cams, valve job, bored throttle bodies. Ordered all the bits n pieces to have a ball both in the shop building it and on the track enjoying it. $6,000 not counting suspension bits, machine work, shipping and cost of the bike. So, yeah it's not cheap but it'll be an affordable option to the full on MotoAmerica builds at double or more the cost. This bike, like mine, should be able to make the grid in any MotoAmerica Twins Cup event, and podium at any club racing event under the right rider. Got some fun and high tech things in the works from Matt at Robem Engineering and from Brandon at Trackside Labs to bookend the motor Zoran is helping with. Stay tuned for V2. Fun.
  39. 9 points
    Just installed my Corbin seat and it's awesome! I realize there are several other Corbin posts out there but I figured I'd add my input and pics as well. Install was simple. It hooks underneath the metal fuel tank (not the factory seat hook) at the front and attaches using the factory rear seat latch. When I first installed it, I had to push down pretty hard on the rear to get it to latch. I added 2 small washers under the hook at the rear to make it latch a little easier and now it's perfect. The fit and finish is impressive and I like the looks of the seat much more than I was expecting to. I'm 6/2 and 215lbs and I have about 350ish miles on the seat now and the first thing I noticed is that it adds a noticeable amount of height over the factory seat (and even the Seat Concepts seat this is replacing). I'm now leaned a little more forward now. I wasn't expecting that but luckily I happen to have taller replacement handlebars laying around that I'll install to help get myself more upright again. The height seems to come from the added shape to the front of the seat where it meets the tank. Much more material here than stock. The seat has a nice curve at the rear of the front seat that, as others have mentioned, works nice to hold you in place during hard acceleration. The seat still allows easy maneuvering from side to side for spirited riding although that will likely be different with other seat coverings. I can say though that the seat shape doesn't impede side-to-side movement. I have the Gunfighter model which has a smaller profile at the rear as compared to their more pillion-friendly Gunfighter and Lady version. I don't take passengers but I'm willing to bet that my seat is much more comfy than the stock rear seat. Another thing to note about the rear is that it is nice and flat making it easy to strap a tailbag to it which I like. Ballparking the amount of time before I started feeling some discomfort on each seat goes something like this: stock seat = 1hr or so, Seat Concepts foam and cover replacement = 1.5-2hrs, Corbin = 3+hrs so far. Of course these are my findings and everybody will have different results but I can comfortably go a full tank of gas now without squirming around in the seat. I should mention that even once I start to feel some discomfort, it stays manageable now and I'm finding that I really don't need to move around like I did with the previous seats. Things may change as the seat breaks in and I'll keep this post updated on any new info. I ordered the seat here as they had the best prices I could find: https://biohazardcycles.com/corbin-y-fz7-14-g-gunfighter-saddle-seat-fz07-fz-07/ Seat showed up about 3 weeks later. The options I went with are: Black Carbon Fiber for the seat, tail, and welt. Asphalt Vinyl for the sides. Black stitching and logo. On to the pics,
  40. 9 points
    Small update, cylinder head just about finished, intake cam back from being reground, hope to be able to be able to check valve to piston clearance soon and then get the head skimmed to increase compression a little. Adapted a car engine stand to take the MT07 engine to make working on it a little easier.
  41. 9 points
    Been having fun. this bike is very trail capable. Beat this thru the muddy trails at 6000 ft above Boise in the rain and it took everything I gave it and keep wanting to go faster. This was up in Stanley, Idaho at the trailhead
  42. 9 points
    Top of the morning! Its a dreary Saturday here in VA so I figured it'd be good start to delve into the early stages of this build. Obviously, the first step was to strip the bike down to nothing more than a rolling chassis with the motor still in place. The hardest part of that undertaking was the damn OEM airbox... Once it was stripped, it was time to take a good look at the subframe and OEM brackets scattered all over the frame (all of it had to go). I wanted the seat line to be as parallel to the ground as possible, kinda like the Jigsaw Customs XSR700 tracker build But trying to work around the curved subframe with the end goal of having a seat line parallel to the ground seemed too much of a problem to be worth the effort: So I bought some .065" wall 3/4" carbon steel tubing for my upcoming version of the subframe. I had to hack a bunch of the OEM stuff off first though before I could get off to a good start... Once the upper rails of the subframe and a good portion of the OEM brackets were gone, I took a few measurements, coped the 3/4" tubing, and got to welding. I went ahead and buffed down the passenger footpeg bosses, welded the holes up, and then blended them nicely into the frame as well: To satisfy any curiosity, if you've noticed the red tie-down straps, they were used in leveling off the bike side to side along with measurements from two equal points on the frame to the top triple clamp, so I could get the bike to stand as square as possible, which in turn would translate over to the new subframe top rails being as square as possible. It just required two holes to be drilled (one into my workbench frame, and one into a wall stud of my shed), two ratchet straps, a torpedo level, and a keen eye. Here's a better look at my home-made leveling rig Once I got all that squared away (no pun intended), I finished removing what was left of the sock subframe, and added a new cross member of the same 3/4" tubing mentioned earlier: Not being satisfied with the OEM crossmember of the subframe directly above the rear shock and still showing the passenger footpeg bosses on the INSIDE lower portion of the subframe, I decided to clean up that area as well. After removing the OEM crossmember, i left the 2 lower bosses and welded a 1/4" piece of round stock between the two for a cleaner and more simple looking crossmember: Once that was all said 'n done, the FZ had a nicer, clean looking subframe: After I knocked out a good portion of the subframe modification, that allowed me to start preparing for the seat pan/tail section. I sourced a huge sheet of .090" thick 5052 aluminum for the seat/tail section from a local metal supplier/machine shop. Luckily I've known the owners for a good while, so material costs have been pretty minimal so far. The first order of the seat pan/tail was to figure out the proper length and width dimensions. Width-wise the seat pan doesn't exceed the subframe rails which reach 7 1/2" at their widest point just before reaching the rear crossmember, with a very slight taper traveling towards the front of the bike. I kept the seat pan square because the taper is so minimal it wouldn't have been worth the effort in trying to mirror the taper angle on the seat pan. Once I had a 7 1/2"x28" sheet of 5052 cut, I marked 7 1/2" inwards from the rear edge, and made a slight scribe using a grinder and cutting wheel, and made the first bend with my 18" Harbor Freight manual press brake (if you don't scribe the material you're using, even if its really thin stuff, that brake doesn't do much bending). Luckily, the upwards angle of the tail's bottom was pretty spot on with what I had wanted, so that's all it took: With the base of the tail/seat pan up 'n running, next on the list is getting the shape of the tail roughed in. For the most part I just had an idea in my head, and just started cutting and bending material until I got the shapes I was happy with. Surprisingly, the lower side pieces I bent for the tail started out as just a piece of scrap that I originally just wanted to practice bending using the brake. Unbeknownst to me had I had coincidentally bent the scrap piece to go with the tail perfectly. After realizing this, I reverse-engineered the scrap piece, used it as a template, marked where the bends were, and voila had the lower portion of the tail fabbed up by luck! Once I had those members made, I cut and shaped the middle portion of the tail and tacked it in place: After that it was pretty much just cutting and shaping off of the top of my head, making sure left and right pieces mirrored each other and everything was equal when measuring from the center on outwards: After the tail was pretty much assembled and welded, I had a bunch of welds to buff and blend in. And where I wanted a nice contour on the tail I had to add a decent amount of metal so there was enough material to work with without removing much, if any of the base material. Also, when welding 5xxx series of aluminum I use 5356 filler rod (you can use 4043 filler rod as well, I just prefer 5356) and 100% UHP argon for the shielding gas: The process involved using a cutting wheel, various grit levels of flapper discs, and you guess it, a Harbor Freight hand sander to achieve smooth transitions of all the faces on the tail: And here's the Marco Simoncelli CB1100 TR tribute bike where I got a lot of influence for the tail and the idea for the lip on the rear of the tail (probably one of the best looking bikes I've ever laid eyes on): Anyways theres more for another day! Hope you guys enjoy. Feel free if you have any questions! Austin
  43. 9 points
    Well, we've been at the track all weekend again. This time we were graced by Andy Palmer and 2018 Twins Cup champion Chris Parrish. They were testing an AP MotoArts FZ07r with the full metal MotoAmerica spec. We were able to arrange a head to head race in Super Twins between our local hotshots on our hotrods and Parrish on AP's fastest in MotoAmerica equivalent. Wow what a race! In fairness it was Parrish's first time at BIR and on Andy's ride. I had our local Dunlop tire rep and track hotshoe Brett Donahue (@TenRacing) ride my bike. Also present were ex AMA pro and track instructor Curt Schushke (FZ07r pilot), track record holder in lightweight twins and fellow MotoAmerica competitor Jon Champ (SV650) mounted, past #1 plate holder Brian Hebiesen (SV650), PR Stafki on his gorgeous RC-51 and a host of other fast dudes. Wait for it... JR Hiebert checked out on his 1299 Duc of course. Parrish and Donahue battled back and forth for second after dispensing with the rest of the field. Parrish finished second posting a best lap of 1:42.5 on Andy's rocket; and Brett in third posting a best lap of 1:42.9 on Blue Line Racings home built FZ07r. Not bad! We didn't knock the big kids down but we did bloody their nose a bit. What fun! It was rewarding to see my club racing machine dance with a skilled partner and hold its own against arguably the best pro-twin there is. Thanks to everyone that played in the sandbox and best part, we get to do it again tommorow.
  44. 9 points
    I'm fabricating a ram-air intake this winter. Here is the ram-air intake plenum. It bolts to the Hordpower velocity stack plate. More details to follow.
  45. 9 points
    I have owned this since new. I have had it covered up in various garages for the past 30 years. A few weeks ago I found out how much they are selling for now, so I thought it might be a good time to get it road worthy again......................and sell it! It was/is a blast to ride. You think the FZ is light!
  46. 8 points
    Yep, it's official... I'm race prepping my FZ-07. Figured I'd start a thread I'm too old to race Junior Cup on my R3 in MotoAmerica, so I'm selling it and gonna try my hand with the FZ-07, since, ya know...I already have one that's decently set up (and age limits aren't a factor in the MotoAmerica Pro Twins Class). For race prep though, I'll change it up a bit... I had some deliveries already pics attached Changing my Yoyodyne Slipper Clutch for a Suter, and taking out my original AP shock link (which is just the dogbone I think they call it), to put in the Altus Motorsports set up (link + dogbone) I have some intake solutions which can't be revealed at the moment, and I'm gonna "massage" the motor a bit (leaving the bottom end alone). As far as engine management, I've been super happy with my RapidBike set up on my R3. It's never, ever been to a dyno, and made just as much power (or more in some instances) than "tuned" bikes, so I'm sticking with them. I have the RapidBike Race, RapidBike My Tune, and Rapid Bike You Tune waiting for me to install. Currently, I have the Akra Ti w/o baffle as far as exhaust, but I may be on the verge to do some prototyping with another manufacturer to start making a full system. If so, we're in a good position, because they can use my Akra Ti as a benchmark, since it's known to be one of the top performing systems for our bikes, and try to best it. Should be fun. I'l update this thread as it develops. - Paul
  47. 8 points
    Kudos to our friend @D.A. who continues recovery from nasty high side practicing knee dragging, he modified his existing vacuum lines on an MT-07 and I'm just repeating his success. This mod will build an entirely new vacuum setup for XSR700 / MT-07 instead of modifying the existing parts, so you can keep the OEM parts for a backup or a dog chew toy or whatever. Working this mod I was throwing "check engine" light, suspected vacuum leaks but unfortunately it simply is the Yamaha sensor begins to behave abnormally if the vacuum lines are modified too long. Air pressure sensor starts sending unexpected responses to ECU during engine braking/closed throttle decel, flashes the "check engine" light for a second or so around 3K rpms. If you're thinking to extend the lines all the way to under your seat, best give it up. So this mod is as all mods should be, simple, mildly invasive, and delivers a "plug and play" hookup to synchronize the throttle bodies with a manometer (like CarbTune). Nothing has to be perfect, but it does have to be correct. To see how @D.A. did it modifying the existing vacuum line, read this thread. Read what he did, check what I did, and then just do it your way, it will work out. Disclaimer - Like all my mods, this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus, and you don't want that Why this mod? - You would not ask, if you have tried to synch your throttle bodies (hookup CarbTune or other manometer). Stock vacuum lines are tough to get at. Best to just make easy access vacuum lines with rubber caps - so you can pull the caps off and slip on your manometer lines and get those throttle bodies in synch without removing the fuel tank or turning sideways, backwards, upside down, or whatever is in the book. Parts for this mod HPS vacuum hose 3.5mm here Vacuum hose clamps 8mm here Straight barbs 4mm here Tee barbs 4mm here Wire spring hose clamps here Bung caps 4mm here MotionPropilot screwdriver here small wire ties (cable ties) 3/8" (or similar) thin wall automotive rubber hose (to make a heat protective jacket around new vacuum line) 2' of 5/32" cheap Autozone vacuum hose, so you can make a "test loop" for your manometer accuracy check Get the bike ready for the mod (XSR700) Remove the side covers and the side cover "backing plates". Also to get some room to remove the old vacuum line and plug in the new vacuum line part we build, disconnect the acceleration throttle cable at the throttle body. It will give your fingers some room to get in there on Intake #1 (left side of the bike). Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #1 We will replace Yamaha's vacuum hose that runs from the air pressure sensor (above cylinder #1 valve cover) to the throttle body #1 manifold nipple (left side of bike). Here's the part we will build It's all made from the hps vacuum hose. Vacuum hose clamps are used to connect assembly to the air pressure sensor at the top of pic, and to the throttle body nipple at the bottom of pic. The "Tee" is our modification, that let's us add a new line for connecting throttle body synchronization tool to Intake #1. Note the "Tee" uses small wire ties (cable ties), because they tell the mechanic to "leave this connection alone!". We provide clamps where technicians can connect/disconnect, but we don't want anyone to disassemble our mod. That 70mm manometer hose That worked for me, on my XSR700. But you may want to be smart and make it twice as long (temporarily) and then cut the exact length you want after you locate both cylinder # 1 & 2 hoses you make on the bike (but remember, too long and you will toss an ECU "check engine light" on decel/engine braking). Do this for sure though - mark the outside of the hose (ball point ink pen works) at the base length I show. Hose marks become reference marks on your longer hoses until you are ready to make the final "cut", and use the rule if you extend one you extend both same length beyond reference marks. Keeps total vacuum draw equal on both pieces, to prevent "skewing" the manometer readings between throttle bodies. Add a heat jacket Take a piece of 3/8" thin walled rubber hose, cut it 90mm length, then slit it all the way so you can open it up like a jacket and wrap it around the hps vacuum setup That's enough to protect hps from cylinder heat, hps doesn't really need it but let's do this the correct way. If the jacket is loose, you can put a zip tie around the whole thing just under the "Tee", and don't make it tight - you don't want to restrict the hps vacuum line inside in any way. You are ready to install just as it appears in the pic, the top plugs into the air pressure sensor, the bottom into intake #1 manifold nipple, and once installed you will see the easy access tube is sitting nicely hidden behind your side cover so nobody will jerk with it, but you know it's there when you need it. To remove the OEM vacuum hose, and to install the new part, use some needle nose pliers, but be kind to your product, don't do any damage to your part or the bike nipple and sensor when you plug it all together. Here is what it looks like once installed, (the side cover (and backing plate) were removed to do the install of the vacuum hose). The hose is nicely waiting for you to remove the bung cap, and plug into your manometer. And once you put the side cover and backing plate on, nobody will know it's there and mess with your bike. Next step, build a new vacuum hose for Intake #2 (right side of bike), and it's just a simple line with a bung cap on the end. Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #2 Let's work cylinder #2 on the right side of bike, and build a line to give it the same kind of easy access. Just follow the pic below. Like the cylinder #1 hose, if you want leave the hose longer than needed for the moment but be sure to make a reference mark at the 160 mm, so you know where I cut (and you can make both hoses longer, but the same amount of length longer than my hoses). Ya, that was tough work, I know. This is all you need for #2 intake vacuum hose. On the #2 intake manifold there is a nipple just like the nipple on #1 intake, only it just has a simple blanking cap and wire clamp closing it off. Remove that stock OEM blanking cap from the #2 intake manifold and plug your new 160 mm hps hose (you built from the pic above) into the manifold nipple (it's tough, tight to get in there, but you only have to do this once, that's the whole point of this mod). Bring the other end of the new vacuum line with the bung for connecting synchronizing tools up and out where the right side cover will hide it from folks you don't want messing with it. Very easy to just tuck up under the side cover mounting bracket. This right side vacuum hose is 160mm for a reason - that's the length of the vacuum draw on the Intake #1 hose, we want the lengths to be essentially the same. That's it. Now let's test our manometer to see if it is accurate, and then hook it up to synchronize throttle bodies. Build a test loop for manometer Assemble the loop you see below We use this setup to connect the single line at top to the Intake #2 easy access bung, and then the "two" lines below can be connected to two of your manometer tubes. If the manometer is accurate, the two tubes will have the exact same reading when you start the bike for a test. Go ahead and plug it into the bike Intake #2 easy access and to your manometer (I have a CarbTune shown below). Start your bike and you can check the manometer, are the readings the same? They better be, because both the manometer tubes are connected to a single vacuum source, our Intake #2 easy access bung. If your manometer is good, you are ready to check if the throttle bodies are in synch. From here on in, just follow the instructions on your manometer for how to set it up. You have an easy access vacuum bung on each side of the bike for Intake #1 and Intake #2. Here is my CarbTune hooked up to both intakes and a synch test underway And that's why we do this stuff. To make it easy, to check and know that the bike is correct, not perfect, but correct. If you have to adjust, MotionPro has a 110 degree "air/pilot screw driver" that makes it real easy to adjust Intake #2 to match #1. No removing the gas tank, we made this too easy. Remember this, we always adjust Intake #2 to match Intake #1 (don't mess/change Intake #1 for synching). Changing the idle rpms on the bike is a different banana. All for now, I will update if anybody needs more details of what we are about on this mod.
  48. 8 points
    The new swingarm slowly coming along in the jig.
  49. 8 points
    The rest of my results... Even though I didn't get to compete in all the events I had hoped to, I did manage to get some good finishes. Overall class championship finishes with Central Roadracing Association Formula 40 F1 1st Lightweight SuperBike 2nd Lightweight Grand Prix 2nd Super Twins 3rd Overall CRA points 20th. Great results considering I did not run the final event with the CRA. I also attended the CCS round at Blackhawk Farms which was our 'away' event for the CRA, was also a CCS event that payed CRA points. Considering it was my first time at Blackhawk Farms, I was very happy with these results. 3rd in Formula 40 Lightweight 1st in Thunderbike 5th in Lightweight SuperBike 7th in Lightweight GrandPrix.
  50. 8 points
    Well the Road America round is officially a 'Go' the end of this month and I've assembled a team of the finest pittards in the business. We'll run this round as a 2 bike team so I can get it adjusted to it's new owner and get the suspension dialed in. Our plan is to run nose to tail right to the front of the grid. What could possibly go wrong, right? The bike is done, The best thing that could happen now is he beats us on it while beating on it. I think we're in deep trouble. What I do know is that we're gonna have a GREAT time finding out! Sorry in advance to all the other competitors that will have their dreams shattered and go home wabbing, lol. BLR Edit: added a strobe,
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