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I had some emergency surgeries this spring and summer so I was not able to get on the bike all year until a track day weekend Oct 30 & 31 at NCM Motorsports Park. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and the bike is working great. Here's a few pics.

Luckily, I got one of the very first ones in the country. The engine seems to have a lil more pop to it over the MT07, but probably due to it being geared lower. Suspension is fully adjustable and better than I thought it would be. Feels great on the road, offroad is a blast but have to take it kind of slow because the suspension bottoms out easily. Im gonna dd progressive springs and revalve forks and shock. Seat is comfortable. It's a great do it all bike so far.

I completed this build a couple of months back now, but thought it was time to share it with the group. I'm not one to document my builds as I'm usually busy with work/life/kids etc. so this is the first time it's made an appearance anywhere other than my local Facebook groups. Background: I've always had an interest in both road and dirt riding and so have been building "Scramblers" for about 10 years now. Started with a CB250RS, then CB400N, GS500, MT03 (660cc), Duke 390, and now finally the MT07. As much as I knew the MT07 would always be the perfect base for an adventure/dirt build, I was always a bit apprehensive about using my MT07 as it's been my faithful and all time favourite bike for the last three years now and also isn't a cheap bike to go awol on and turn into a dirt bike. Though I finally got sick of building Scramblers which just weren't quite good enough and so I bit the bullet and sacrificed my MT07 to the dirt gods. After spending countless hours on research prior and sourcing the necessary parts, the build itself was rather quick taking about a month from start to finish. The "kit", named so because everything is fully reversible and transferable to another MT07, is the following: - Gen 2 KLR 650 forks in the standard MT07 triples with Cogent DDC emulators, 200mm standard travel. - YSS SV650 shock, 175mm travel, revalved for adventure riding conditions. - KLR650 wheels, 21" / 17", running Motoz Rallz, and oversize 320mm front disc. - Fully functioning ABS retained with a toggle switch up on the handle bars. - Few accessories, screen, taller+wider bars, hand guards, skid plate, crash bars, ventura rack. - Plus a bunch of other bits and pieces, machined spacers, longer front brake line etc. to pull it all together. The end result is an absolute weapon off road and more fun than my stock MT07 was on road. It weighs in at 190kg wet, so about 10kg (22 pound) more than stock although that includes all the bolt on protection and the rack, so works out about the same. The bike sits about 75mm taller than stock at the sump with a bit more than that from the front end and a bit less from the rear so is canted back slightly giving it a more upright riding position. At 173cm (5'9) it's probably sitting at the limit of height that I can still manage off road although I have been riding dirt bikes for many years so am somewhat used to it. The suspension is dialed perfectly for myself at 73kg with the stock KLR fork springs and standard YSS SV650 spring and hits just the right balance of on/off road mix. Smooth enough when it gets rough, but firm enough for spirited road riding and preventing it from bottoming out. And with the altered ergos it wheelies like there's no tomorrow. I couldn't be happier with how this bike turned out. It's hands down the most fun bike I've owned over the years. My days of seeking out the perfect Scrambler are done as this is exactly the bike I was after. There's only one change potentially in the works. It might be about to become an XSR700!

I did a track day yesterday at my local track. A rider I know showed up with a New R7,which by the way is a very nice machine. We compared bikes in the pits, looking for differences and trying to determine what components could be interchanged. He was very interested in my Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akrapovic Ti exhaust. This guy is a talented rider and when I was following him, I noticed how much the R7 is a true sportbike. The R7 allows the rider get low on the bike, hang off and tuck in easier. The R7 seat and tail allow for a lot of front to back movement as well. Again they did a nice job. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be between my modified FZ and a stock engined FZ or in this case an R7. In the clip below, you can see me follow him onto the front straight, close in and pass. I knew my bike made more power and pulled longer than it did stock, however this shows a real world difference. Money well spent in my opinion. The R7 will have a Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akra Ti VERY soon. My GoPro Adventure - 10/1/21 Shared using GoPro Ed

Health issues have prevented me from getting on the track thus far this year but it's looking like I'll be able to race this fall. With the down time I got a sweet paint job and cleaned up a few other details. She's ready to roll.

So I have tossed this idea around for a while and finally decided to pull the trigger. I cross rferenced all of the FZ07 and R7 parts list for the clutches and came up with this list to convert my FZ07 to a factory slipper set up. I trust factory parts so I feel confident about quality and longevity. I ordered the parts online, took about a month with supply chain issues. Cost was $305- I receieved the parts yesterday. Hope to install over the next couple of weeks. Ed All Parts (I Think ) Contents of Clutch Kit Parts List / Numbers

The dealer says October. I have 86 acres of farm land with 15 acres of woods so this is long overdue.

8/15/2020 NYST photos....

Note: The following are opinions. It is not based on scientific research but on experience and observation. Before I retired I had the good fortune to work the Sturgis Rally for a number of years. Because of this I had the unique opportunity to observe hundreds of thousands of similarly dressed rugged individualists attempt to operate motorcycles. That experience taught me two things. First was that many of them were inept at handling motorcycles and a vast majority of those honestly thought they were 'above avg' to 'excellent' riders when in fact they could not make a simple feet-up U turn in the full width of a 2 lane road. In talking to them at crash scenes, tip overs, fender benders and assorted mishaps I was appalled by the realization that they refused to practice or to learn or to seek instruction, frequently telling me that they thought their skills are "good enough", when clearly they were not. Second was that their focus and attention was frequently within the cockpit of the motorcycle instead of down range where it should be. When presented with situations that required divided attention, like pulling off a busy roadway into a busy gas station, their attention would shrink to their hand controls and they might very well crash straight into the fuel pumps or a car or another biker oblivious to their presence. Riders pulling away from a stop into traffic would pause and stare at the throttle, brake and clutch levers or at the ground directly in front of their motorcycle because they were overwhelmed and commence their action often with disastrous results. On to the free part. It costs nothing to stop in an empty parking lot or out of the way spot by yourself or better yet with other riders to offer critical input and PRACTICE riding. Braking. Turning. Avoidance maneuvers. Working with your control interfaces to make their operation intrinsic. Basic motorcycle control to familiarize yourself with your machine and it's capabilities. Two up if you ever take a loved one with. You owe it to your passenger to be better than 'good enough'. Occasionally practicing for problem #1 has the added benefit of taking care of problem #2, letting you safely enjoy the ride. The rest of us thank you. I realize that most of us here or that will read this are statistically not those I speak of. My hope is that we lead by example and are seen routinely practicing. That we take a friend or neighbor or other riding companion to the parking lot and learn together because I know my skills will never be good enough. Ride safe.

Thanks to our friend @klx678 for some great efforts during the research of this front brake mod, and some more wisdom from @mossrider along the way. This is a front brake only mod, nothing is changed about the rear brake. And best to our friend @D.A. who continues recovering from a nasty highside practicing knee dragging Stock bike OEM master cylinder is 15mm and caliper pistons are 27/30mm for a hydraulic area ratio of about 29:1 (an entry level brake). This Brembo 17RCS mod pushes that ratio to about 22:1. Before going there I want to say please do the background work for yourself and just know what you are about for this one. I cover the controls at all times, and use two finger clutch and one finger braking - everything I say in this mod is from that perspective. This mod has been tested with the ABS disabled and enabled by fuse pulling (without loss of speedo). I run without the ABS most of the time. Prerequisite EBC HH Brake Pads Front: EBC FA252HH Key parts as reviewed 110.C740.40 | Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta Standard (long lever) | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo 110.A263.85-1 | Brembo RCS reservoir kit in smoke | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo Spieglerusa.com Phase 1 - connect brembo to abs "IN" port with new line, use bike's existing rubber brake lines from abs "OUT" port down to calipers 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 560mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x 20-00001-11 (single banjo bolt M10x1.0 in silver anodized for Brembo connection) 6 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum Phase 2 - replace brake lines from abs "out" port to calipers with braided stainless steel 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 736mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 515mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on both ends. 10 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum 1 x 20-00102-15 , double banjo bolt M10x1.25 1 x 20-00002-15 , banjo bolt M10x1.25 Support parts/extra replacements 6219613 | copper crush washers | Qty 15 | kurveygirl.com 105.1502.10 | Brembo bleed screw rubber cap | Qty 3 | kurveygirl.com 110.A263.89 | Brembo replacement RCS cap and flag | Qty 2 | kurveygirl.com 90464-18002 | Qty 2 Genuine Yamaha Grommet Tab Locator | Yamaha Wire-M187-F110 | Male .187" to Female .110" Conversion wire (brake switch wire-up w/no cutting of bike harness | Qty 2 | T-Molding.com Spiegler created a kit S-YA0324 from my brake line parts list - thank you! After I finished this mod and was confident in the lengths and materials was good to go, Spiegler was great and asked if they could create a "kit" by part number called the "Yamaha XSR700 ABS Front Brake Line Kit" for Brembo RCS master cylinders, so anyone who wants to do this mod can have a single Spiegler part number that takes you to the Spiegler ordering page for this kit, where you choose the color of lines and fittings and Spiegler will make sure you get all the other brake line parts you need to do this mod using my line dimensions, including extras like new grommets on the lines (so you don't have to re-use the Yamaha grommets like I did). Go to the Spiegler home page and search for this part number "S-YA0324", you will find some pics of my bike there to reference for how to route lines and stuff. You choose the colors for the brake line & fittings, Spiegler sends you the right brake lines, fittings/angles, with grommets ready to go. Thank you Spiegler and Matthias Schaub http://mschaub@spieglerusa.com, he was a great help. Installation You can install the 17RCS with only one new brake line from Speigler, that's the "Phase 1" mod with only 1 new braided ss brake line connecting the Brembo 17RCS to the abs "IN" port (and leave the rest of the front brake lines the stock OEM rubber). I prototype tested the bike in this Phase 1 configuration, then pulled it down and did the Phase 2 where all OEM front brake lines are pulled and replaced by Spiegler braided stainless steel lines. You can install this brake in a conventional handlebar/control location, or if you are like me you may want to locate the 17RCS exactly in a certain position relative to the grip, and move the starter/harzard lights control housing up the handler bar to make room for what matters. *****EDIT***** MOD 2023.05 Moved the handlebar control switch to the more common location on the handlebar - read down this thread to find things to be aware of when positioning controls. *****END EDIT***** Brake light switch included is good quality, and using the "Wire-M187-F110" spade flag connector wires you can attach it to the bikes harness without cutting the harness at all, the two "flag" type connectors for the existing brake can be plugged into these "Wire-M187-F110" wires and then that short piece of adapter wire can be "clamped" onto the Brembo brake light switch wires from the RCS17 switch. Brake light function is flawless, just do a good job of waterproofing, I used a "jacket" of heat shrink tubing shrunk "partially" to make a more snug & watertight .187 flag connections for these handlebar brake wires. Line Routing Let's stop dragging that abs sensor wire down the left fork leg to the left caliper, back up and over the fender, and down to the right caliper where the wheel sensor is located. In this mod, the Spiegler line from the abs "out" port travels down the right fork leg to the right caliper together with the abs sensor cable to the double banjo bolt connection, then the brake line jumps over the fender to connect to the left brake caliper via single banjo bolt. The brake line passes thru the bike's grommet locator (rigid metal bracket under the triple tree). It "skips" passing thru the 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator at the bottom of the triple tree, only the abs sensor wire is passed thru this locator. If you try to pass the braided stainless steel brake line thru both of these locators at the bottom of the triple tree like OEM did with the rubber brake lines, it would create a totally unnecessary and unwanted sharp bend in the Spiegler line. The brake line is secured in the bike's rigid metal bracket grommet locator under the triple tree by "reusing" the grommet from the OEM original rubber line (I removed it and reused it, but if you order from Spiegler they will slide this rubber grommet on the line for you, no need to reuse). I increased the "grip" that this grommet has on the Spiegler line, by cutting a small piece of rubber from an old inner tube (about 1/4" wide and long enough to go around the Spiegler brake line one time) and then wrapped the "reused" original grommet around that inner tube wrap. The important thing is that the Spiegler line is secured at this point so it can not slide up or down - that ensures the proper length down to the caliper that will flex with the suspension is always maintained. Also the "over the fender" brake line does not scuff or touch the plastic fender, and the brake line coming down the fork leg is nicely supported and "stout" enough so it does not flap around in the airstream at speed. The abs sensor wire is "zip tied" to the Spiegler brake line traveling down the right fork to the right caliper. The abs sensor wire has a grommet that was originally used to hold the sensor wire in place as it passed thru a metal locator bracket at the left caliper. This abs grommet on the sensor wire is in just the right place to now be moved up to the rigid metal locator bracket under the triple tree and clamped along with the brake line at this securing point. The abs wire then travels on up thru the Yamaha 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator and on up the triple tree to the abs. At the abs, this sensor wire now will have a surplus of length before it plugs into the wiring harness next to the abs unit under the right fuel tank panel. You can nicely protect this extra length by wrapping two loops around the wire retaining bracket at the frame yoke that is used to keep the bike's electrical harness from rubbing the frame when turning the bike. Also before I plugged this abs sensor wire back into the wiring harness, I took about 3" of large "shrink wrap" and placed it over this abs sensor wire connector end with a zip tie (but do not shrink it), to create a more waterproof "boot" around the connector. After plugging the connector into the harness, this extra boot makes a much better waterproof cover for that abs connection. Also, at this same location at the yoke of the triple tree/frame, I used a wrap of inner tube to add extra protection for the bike's wiring harness that passes thru this location (where the Speigler brake lines are moving and flexing when the bike is steered). One nice wrap around the wiring harness with the rubber inner tube piece, zip tie it in place, and the harness is protected from those flexing brake lines that might chaffe away at the harness without protection. Banjos at the ABS I think reusing the stock banjo bolts is best approach, the allen heads are easier to get a wrench on because close clearance with fuel tank above abs and they are steel so no worries reusing. I used (always new) copper crush washers (aluminum is fine too), and I picked some that were .5mm thick, because Spiegler banjo fittings are a little "taller" than the oem fittings, using a .5mm washer gives some length back to the banjo bolt threads screwing into the abs unit. Finger tighten both IN and OUT line banjos at abs and check all your routing (my pics will help) and clearance behind the air scoop (put scoop on and check the banjo positions) before you commit and tighten down on the crush washers. 17RCS Corsa Corta Review Quality, fit, and finish is of course the "cat's meow". It is in a way, like Brembo likes to suggest, a work of art - but I don't give squat for looks I want results. 17RCS delivers. You could order the 17RCS standard version, or the 17RCS Corsa Corta. I changed my mind at the last minute and ordered the Corsa Corta, you pick up an adjustable "free play" adjuster. Damn it turned out to be my favorite thing among everything that is a favorite on the Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta. You can go look at features of this front brake master cylinder all over the web, please do, I will not repeat any of it here except to say what I like about the 17RCS. Expect to have more time and effort involved in brake bleeding and testing for weeping banjos & tightening to seal those crush washers. I used a reverse brake bleeder "V5 DIY 2104-B Brake Bleeder" available from Pheonix Systems or from NAPA sold under "Carlyle Tools" banner, or on the web everywhere car parts are sold. Test your brakes every night for a week after bleeding by doing this (to remove additional air from system AND show any "weeping" from banjo crush washers). At night you can use a couple zip ties (cable ties) to hold the lever under moderate braking pressure all night like you were squeezing the lever firmly - firmly but no need for crushing force pulling the lever. In the morning, hold the lever at this squeezed location and cut the zip tie, then slowly release the lever. It can "suck" any accumulated air bubbles at the top of the system back into the master cylinder where they travel up into the brake reservoir. It helps get air out of the system AND you can go look closely at all the banjos, if they are leaking go slow but tighten them a very little amount until they stop leaking each time you check and find weeping. You know what to do. I also repeatedly bleed the 17RCS first every day after releasing the zip tie (yes, the 17RCS has it's own bleeder screw on the master cylinder body), and then bleed off the top of the right caliper where the new "double" banjo bolt is, and then the left caliper where the "single" banjo bolt is. Pump off the left caliper to force any air in the line that jumps over the fender (and is trapped in the line over the fender) out of the system. Enough about bleeding, you know. Initial Bite You control how much free play there is in the lever before hydraulic brake pressure begins (only on the Corsa Corta). I really like running it with very little free play, as soon as I begin to pull with my finger I'm into the initial bite, you may hate that but hey, that's why it's adjustable. Brake character It's linear. I mean completely linear, the initial bite all the way to howling tire (I run with the ABS disabled much of the time). The stock lever, you begin pulling, and pulling, and pulling and still not getting anywhere keep pulling then it starts to build but not enough, you keep pulling, pulling until you are really standing on it and finally you get the serious increasing brake pressure needed for serious stopping or emergency. Not that way at all with the 17RCS. From the initial first bite, there is much less additional lever movement. As the lever moves, the braking force builds rapidly but at the same increasing rate as a function of lever movement. And there is no softness, anywhere. It feels firm all the time, even when only applying a small braking force. Firm does not mean "hard" to pull. It means every increase in lever movement must be intentional by the rider and you feel the result, even though it gives the impression that you are not pulling any harder, you simply are intentionally braking. With the ABS disabled, one finger braking can make that wheel howl, but it is not in any way a "touchy" or "grabby" brake. I have to squeeze with conscious intention to stop, but I can achieve even emergency stops with my index finger. And the feel is superb - it's interesting how a firm purposeful master cylinder also provides so much more confidence and feedback while still being linear and firm when compared to the entry level OEM brake feel. I know what is going on at the tire, I feel it thru my finger as well as all my other riding senses. I can really feel what's happening, that's what it's like. This brake and you You could hate everything about this brake that I like. It's how I brake and what I have always preferred in brakes, I go to lengths to make front brakes on previous bikes work somewhat like this one. But this is the easy way to get everything I want, I don't have to keep trying out my options to see how close I am to what I like. This brake puts me there, and you may hate that place. There, that is my disclaimer, don't do this because it will kill you and like all my mods, they all cause athletes foot fungus. My hand strength is diminishing because reasons, this 17RCS with adjustable lever leverage will keep me riding for some time to come. @klx678 did me a great favor jumping into my design with both feet early on and taking it to Brembo to get them to "sign off" on this ABS bike application & fitment, thank you amigo. I'm expecting there will be things I remember need said to help explain, so I will edit post as needed to keep it straight

We had the opportunity through Darren James to work with Trevor up at Flexi-glass on new bodywork for the FZ07 and MT07. The quality of the kit is amazing. The tank is molded off the FZ07 stock tank and uses the stock mounting locations without the flex or need for additional bracing of other kits on the market. Utilizing the current ZX10R wind screen. Bodywork is 2.0”narrower to avoid dragging and clearanced to avoid the exhaust in the lower. The mounting kit will be built by Robem and available on the website. Flexi-glass is proudly made in Canada with premium products. Cost estimated $800 upper, lower, tail, tank cover and fender plus shipping.

I finally made it to New York Safety Track. I was invited to a private track day. This track is amazing with elevation changes, off camber turns and as many left as right turns. Beautiful location at the top of a mountain in NY State. The people were great and super friendly. This was one of the best track days that I’ve ever had. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend it. also, I absolutely F%ckin’ Love My FZ07 Ed

Went for a quick ride today and all is good so far. Bike tracked perfectly with hands off the bars at 70 mph. The bike feels just as nimble with 7 inches added to the swingarm. I deleted the rear ABS. It was just easier since I needed a longer line. The stock shock is on until the custom valved Penske comes in. Probably another week.

This weekend was the final weekend of our Track Season. My buddy Rob was there with his 2022 YZF-R7. We had one session together in the afternoon where we were battling back and forth, we had a great time. Rob has the Yellow R7, I have the Red/White/Black FZ-07, I have the Blue Air Vest. Our bikes are similarly prepped, Tunes, Pipes, Suspension. Here are some video clips. Ed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4MO8rmx4Vk&authuser=0

After 14 seasons of being a "track-day" rider/coach, I've stepped up my game!!! At 53 years old, I'm doing my first club-race at my "most" local track- BIR!!! (Brainerd International Raceway), in Brainerd, MN.... I have many laps on that track, and can't wait to do my first sanctioned race, on August 12th!!!! I know the learning curve will be HIGH (to say the least ). I'm racing my "07" in naked trim... I'm NOT chasing championships, or points.... I'm only chasing my smile (and anyone that runs about my pace) ... I have nothing to prove to anyone. (other than myself)... It just feels "right"- I probably wouldn't be doing ANY of this without the guidance/support of @mossrider... Dave has been a mentor to me and encouraged me to pursue my race license - he even offered to lend me his totally "bad-a$$" FZ-07R to pursue my race license (which I declined at the time)... I can't wait to chase my smile!!!!

So here is the new look for 2022. I dusted off my spray guns, it's been 17 years since I last painted anything.

Here are my pictures and notes for the installation of the R7 Slipper Clutch. PART TWO - Installation Stock FZ / MT Clutch Boss and Pressure plate on Top / R7 Slipper on Bottom Note Ramps and oval shaped holes on Boss and Plate, this is how they disengage to provide slip Install rear spacer first, then R7 Clutch Boss and front spacer Then Beveled Washer with the word OUT facing you and a new Boss Nut. Torque Boss Nut to 70-ft.lbs and stake the lock tab. Place the transmission in 6th gear and hold the rear brake to torque the Boss Nut. Install Clutch Damper Spring Seat Then install the Clutch Damper Spring. Note the bevel faces outward. Then begin installing the friction and clutch plates in order. Assemble dry and then measure the stack height. Range is 32.7 mm to 33.5 mm. My first assembly came out towards the lower end. I realized that I used 2 of the thinner clutch plates. (see chart below) The clutch kit come with 5 standard plates 2.0mm, (2) thinner plates 1.6mm and (2) heavier plates 2.3mm. I reassembled with 5 standard 2.0mm plate and was at 33.5mm exactly. I then oiled the friction and clutch plates and installed with the R7 pressure plate. Torque Clutch Spring Bolts to 7.4-ft.lbs. Note offset on last friction plate. Clean the mating surfaces and put a new gasket on the clutch cover and reinstall. I found it lined up easy, slide the cover down and wiggle the water pump impeller to make sure it lock onto the drive shaft. Don't sweat the clutch arm alignment if it is off. Mine was slightly off, I just removed the C Clip and rotated the arm a few degrees until the marks lined up and reinstalled the C Clip. Torque clutch cover bolts to 8.9-ft.lbs Refill coolant. Install a new oil filter and oil. Install the clutch cable on the cover, adjust and tighten lock nuts. Then fine adjust at clutch lever to achieve 10mm free play. I think that's pretty much it. Feel free to ask any questions. Ed

Speedometer Scratch Fix – Cheap & Quick – Safe for Plastics By the photo below you can see how badly my speedometer/instrument cluster was scratched. I’ve always tried to clean it with a microfiber towel, but it’s taken it’s beating over 4 years and 30,000km. I wanted to post this because in my search travels I couldn’t find any solution that was detailed for a motorcycle. Hopefully people find this from now on. This combined with the reverse LCD screen made it appear much worse in the sunlight. So, I went to my local hardware store (Canadian Tire) and picked up a container of Maguire’s PLASTX. Other than that, we’ll need an applicator pad and soft cloth. I used some cotton cosmetic pads because they were closest to me. After working the product in until it was almost gone, I let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then wiped off with the cloth. Below is the result. Although not perfect because 2-3 of the deeper scratches couldn’t come out, I’m happy enough. It looks way better and not such a mess. I’ll post some closeup pictures below to further illustrate the effects.

And here it is!

Hi All, I am fairly new to the forum, been around on the T700 one and I thought I join this one as well as there is a lot of things to learn from people who have used the cp2 engine for years now. My bike is a 2019 tenere 700, which I've converted to a supermoto since 2k miles and have been riding and improving the bike since then... Most fun I've had on two wheels to be fair and I don't plant on selling but keep looking of ways to improve the bike.... Wheels : Excel Takasaga 5.0 and 3.0 inch with 160 60 and 120 70 tyres.... Front mt10 mudguard, front mt07 sprocket, I can't remember the size... Suspension : front and back upgraded springs. Brakes : stock for now... I am waiting for the Beringer calliper to arrive any day now, it has been 5 weeks... All the other parts to convert a single disc have been purchased. And I will do an abs pump bypass as well. Engine is stock apart from the end can and this is where I will be starting to look at once the brakes are fitted and I'm happy with them. Looking to do some intake mods thanks to @AP996 for his help into guiding me towards his solution for the intake. Once the engine breads better and the tuning has been done with software I will get some cams and headers. Plan for the engine is to have a healthy power band and around 80 85hp to the wheel. Things I have added that make the bike nicer to ride : 1 finger clutch from camel adv, healtech quickshifter which is addictive and makes so much sense coming out of turns... Different levers, rally seat for 910mm height.. Heated grips, shorter Sport screen... For me this bike is perfect as I am very tall 196cm and long legs so there isn't a lot of options out there that can be as comfortable and as nimble as the t7. Would like to reduce the weight of the bike to 180kg wet but that is a long term goal and it should be achievable with some nice titanium mods, battery and abs pump removal once a module comes a long like on the r6 or r1. I'll let the pictures do the talking. Aleks

R1m LED turnsignal mirrors Sharkskinz upper fairing (modified) Eagle lights daymaker LED headlight / housing Ermax rear cowling Ermax belly pan Yoshimura y-series full system Rear sets Woodcraft clip ons with 3" drop So far Hand painted by yours truly

Pics from last weekends track day event hosted by TDW. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and learning things every lap. I'm getting close to the edge of the rear tire so I think I'll need to add a rear link to jack the back end up. Bike worked flawlessly except in one session I had fuel leaking out the Vortex gas cap. I think I just didn't click it down completely because it didn't leak at all the second day.

Hey everyone, its been a while since I've posted anything up but wanted to share my updates to the original build I had a couple years ago to my racebike. I changed the tail to the new R7 tail and subframe because I like it much better than the R6 tail that was on it. I also replaced the lower as Sharkskins updated the lower for the FZ-07 so I got the new style. Just got all the bodywork back from the painter today so got it re-installed and ready for graphics and stickers next. Bodywork is as follows: R6 - Upper - Sides - Seat FZ-07 - Tank cover - Lower R7 - Tail CBR 600 - Front fender

So now that my 07 is my dedicated track-only bike, I thought I should add an oil-containment belly pan for 2021. I found a manufacture called "Airtech" that builds generic body parts. I pulled some measurements, and ordered one. They make one called the "OCP1" that fit nearly perfect. They make an OCP1L (long), and a OCP1S (short) as well. I went with the standard length, and I only had to trim about 3/8" to make room for the exhaust. I made my own brackets out of aluminum flat stock from my local hardware store. It comes standard in white. As per Airtech, they suggested I use a spray-on bed liner for paint. Seems like a pretty good option so far? I never wanted a belly pan, and prefer the naked-bike look.... What do you guys think?

A video of my first stoppie and it wasn't planned The practice I've done saved me from what could have been a very bad day. When I realized I needed to stop as quickly as possible, I didn't underbrake or panic and lock up the brakes. Instead I was able to rely purely on my muscle memory of emergency braking. When the car was in my path it wasn't scary and it felt like another braking exercise. I simply gradually but quickly applied more and more brake pressure until I felt the rear wheel lift up. Next time you go for a ride, find an empty road in good condition and practice fast progressive braking. You don't want the first time you have to use your maximum braking potential to be a trial by fire.

Going to NJMP tomorrow for the first track day of the year. Any of you Hosers going? Can't wait to feel the new Hord Airbox and Tune. Ed

Things went great yesterday. The weather held out, mid 70s and sunny. They over $300k in track repairs over the winter. Fixed cracks, patched bad sections and most importantly fixed drainage issues. They also paved the parking areas (used to be grass/dirt/mud) so parking and set up was good. It was a light day for the first event. Instead of 4 15-minute session, they gave us 3 20-minute sessions by combining the 2 fastest groups. So 8 run sessions for the day. The track improvements were noticeable. Completely dry and no rough sections. Grip on the new patches was good. I had set up my sag settings with my new Slacker Tool. I also played with compression settings, went a little softer front and rear. The bike felt good and rear tire pattern looked good and consistent across the rear tire. The Q4's felt great too. The new Hord Airbox and Tune were noticeable, especially on the long main straight, the engine just kept pulling. There is a noticeable intake growl above half throttle. That combined with the Akra Ti sounds great. I rode well and felt good for the first event after the winter layover. My son rode well on his SV 650. Making noticeable improvements with body position and the right line. He spent the afternoon working with a coach and had a really good day too. At lunch, a rider with a very well set up 3rd gen SV 650 came over to talk to me. He asked what was done to my FZ. I thought this seemed odd, because he had a well set up SV and all of the mods on my FZ are visible and obvious. Then he said no, what did you do internally to the engine, I said nothing and he looked more puzzled. He said that he could get right up to my rear wheel in the tight areas, but I would walk him on every straight. He said his SV was dynoed at 74 RWP. He asked what mine was. My bike has never been dynoed, so I said" I dunno, more than 74?" He just seemed puzzled that my bike appeared to be that much faster. It made me feel good about my set up and helped validate my butt dyno results. The rider was a cool guy, we made friends and talked quite a bit. Got to ride with my 75 year old track buddy and made a few new friends. All in all a good day. Ed

So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.

After 24 years together I’ve sold this beauty, wasn’t using it so best it goes to someone who will. Doubt I’ll ever have anything more pretty than that in the garage though.

Racebike is mostly done for this year. Still need to add numbers and a few other items but its very close. I will be racing it this coming weekend with AHRMA at one of our local tracks in Colorado. Never raced with them before so pretty excited to give their club a try. It will also be the shackdown for my season that starts a few weeks after that round.

Hi i take my bike to test again this past Sunday and we make new numbers and new Personal Record 10.70@119 in 93 oct. I want to make 10.5 in 93 oct then use Mr12 again. I use Mr12 before and make 10.86@119 now with use 93 oct https://instagram.com/arturomt07?igshid=aoi4qkef5cnm

Well a bizarre 2020 is fast coming to a close but that just means next season is just around the corner. I piled up the last 5 seasons assemblage of toys for it's new owner, arriving in the great white north from Birmingham on Sunday. (We had snow today) I spent a day freshening it up a bit for it's journey. Farewell old friend. And drug this home for something to do over the winter. One of its owners 2 RC-51's. This one was raced years ago and has sat idle and neglected in the back corner of the garage for 10 years. It will be put back on the road in street legal trim so it's owner and his son can ride them together on weekends. Aside from this and a few other short term projects you just never know what will roll outta the shop come spring

Well P1 was cut short by a red flag incident but we got a good idea of what's what in the 3 laps we got. Q1 was good, we put it on the outside of row 3 in 9th. We have another swing at the pinatas tomorrow so we'll see if we can improve. Greetings from Road America!

Kudos to our friend @D.A. who continues recovery from nasty high side practicing knee dragging, he modified his existing vacuum lines on an MT-07 and I'm just repeating his success. This mod will build an entirely new vacuum setup for XSR700 / MT-07 instead of modifying the existing parts, so you can keep the OEM parts for a backup or a dog chew toy or whatever. Working this mod I was throwing "check engine" light, suspected vacuum leaks but unfortunately it simply is the Yamaha sensor begins to behave abnormally if the vacuum lines are modified too long. Air pressure sensor starts sending unexpected responses to ECU during engine braking/closed throttle decel, flashes the "check engine" light for a second or so around 3K rpms. If you're thinking to extend the lines all the way to under your seat, best give it up. So this mod is as all mods should be, simple, mildly invasive, and delivers a "plug and play" hookup to synchronize the throttle bodies with a manometer (like CarbTune). Nothing has to be perfect, but it does have to be correct. To see how @D.A. did it modifying the existing vacuum line, read this thread. Read what he did, check what I did, and then just do it your way, it will work out. Disclaimer - Like all my mods, this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus, and you don't want that Why this mod? - You would not ask, if you have tried to synch your throttle bodies (hookup CarbTune or other manometer). Stock vacuum lines are tough to get at. Best to just make easy access vacuum lines with rubber caps - so you can pull the caps off and slip on your manometer lines and get those throttle bodies in synch without removing the fuel tank or turning sideways, backwards, upside down, or whatever is in the book. Parts for this mod HPS vacuum hose 3.5mm here Vacuum hose clamps 8mm here Straight barbs 4mm here Tee barbs 4mm here Wire spring hose clamps here Bung caps 4mm here MotionPropilot screwdriver here small wire ties (cable ties) 3/8" (or similar) thin wall automotive rubber hose (to make a heat protective jacket around new vacuum line) 2' of 5/32" inexpensive auto parts store vacuum hose, so you can make a "test loop" for your manometer accuracy check Get the bike ready for the mod (XSR700) Remove the side covers and the side cover "backing plates". Also to get some room to remove the old vacuum line and plug in the new vacuum line part we build, disconnect the acceleration throttle cable at the throttle body. It will give your fingers some room to get in there on Intake #1 (left side of the bike). Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #1 We will replace Yamaha's vacuum hose that runs from the air pressure sensor (above cylinder #1 valve cover) to the throttle body #1 manifold nipple (left side of bike). Here's the part we will build It's all made from the hps vacuum hose. Vacuum hose clamps are used to connect assembly to the air pressure sensor at the top of pic, and to the throttle body nipple at the bottom of pic. The "Tee" is our modification, that let's us add a new line for connecting throttle body synchronization tool to Intake #1. Note the "Tee" uses small wire ties (cable ties), because they tell the mechanic to "leave this connection alone!". We provide clamps where technicians can connect/disconnect, but we don't want anyone to disassemble our mod. That 70mm manometer hose That worked for me, on my XSR700. But you may want to be smart and make it twice as long (temporarily) and then cut the exact length you want after you locate both cylinder # 1 & 2 hoses you make on the bike (but remember, too long and you will toss an ECU "check engine light" on decel/engine braking). Do this for sure though - mark the outside of the hose (ball point ink pen works) at the base length I show. Hose marks become reference marks on your longer hoses until you are ready to make the final "cut", and use the rule if you extend one you extend both same length beyond reference marks. Keeps total vacuum draw equal on both pieces, to prevent "skewing" the manometer readings between throttle bodies. Add a heat jacket Take a piece of 3/8" thin walled rubber hose, cut it 90mm length, then slit it all the way so you can open it up like a jacket and wrap it around the hps vacuum setup That's enough to protect hps from cylinder heat, hps doesn't really need it but let's do this the correct way. If the jacket is loose, you can put a zip tie around the whole thing just under the "Tee", and don't make it tight - you don't want to restrict the hps vacuum line inside in any way. You are ready to install just as it appears in the pic, the top plugs into the air pressure sensor, the bottom into intake #1 manifold nipple, and once installed you will see the easy access tube is sitting nicely hidden behind your side cover so nobody will jerk with it, but you know it's there when you need it. To remove the OEM vacuum hose, and to install the new part, use some needle nose pliers, but be kind to your product, don't do any damage to your part or the bike nipple and sensor when you plug it all together. Here is what it looks like once installed, (the side cover (and backing plate) were removed to do the install of the vacuum hose). The hose is nicely waiting for you to remove the bung cap, and plug into your manometer. And once you put the side cover and backing plate on, nobody will know it's there and mess with your bike. Next step, build a new vacuum hose for Intake #2 (right side of bike), and it's just a simple line with a bung cap on the end. Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #2 Let's work cylinder #2 on the right side of bike, and build a line to give it the same kind of easy access. Just follow the pic below. Like the cylinder #1 hose, if you want leave the hose longer than needed for the moment but be sure to make a reference mark at the 160 mm, so you know where I cut (and you can make both hoses longer, but the same amount of length longer than my hoses). Ya, that was tough work, I know. This is all you need for #2 intake vacuum hose. On the #2 intake manifold there is a nipple just like the nipple on #1 intake, only it just has a simple blanking cap and wire clamp closing it off. Remove that stock OEM blanking cap from the #2 intake manifold and plug your new 160 mm hps hose (you built from the pic above) into the manifold nipple (it's tough, tight to get in there, but you only have to do this once, that's the whole point of this mod). Bring the other end of the new vacuum line with the bung for connecting synchronizing tools up and out where the right side cover will hide it from folks you don't want messing with it. Very easy to just tuck up under the side cover mounting bracket. This right side vacuum hose is 160mm for a reason - that's the length of the vacuum draw on the Intake #1 hose, we want the lengths to be essentially the same. That's it. Now let's test our manometer to see if it is accurate, and then hook it up to synchronize throttle bodies. Build a test loop for manometer Assemble the loop you see below We use this setup to connect the single line at top to the Intake #2 easy access bung, and then the "two" lines below can be connected to two of your manometer tubes. If the manometer is accurate, the two tubes will have the exact same reading when you start the bike for a test. Edit 2022-07-30 - Always plug the test loop into Intake #2, because it will cause the air pressure sensor on the #1 vacuum line to throw an error. Go ahead and plug it into the bike Intake #2 easy access and to your manometer (I have a CarbTune shown below). Start your bike and you can check the manometer, are the readings the same? They better be, because both the manometer tubes are connected to a single vacuum source, our Intake #2 easy access bung. If your manometer is good, you are ready to check if the throttle bodies are in synch. From here on in, just follow the instructions on your manometer for how to set it up. You have an easy access vacuum bung on each side of the bike for Intake #1 and Intake #2. Here is my CarbTune hooked up to both intakes and a synch test underway And that's why we do this stuff. To make it easy, to check and know that the bike is correct, not perfect, but correct. If you have to adjust, MotionPro has a 110 degree "air/pilot screw driver" that makes it real easy to adjust Intake #2 to match #1. No removing the gas tank, we made this too easy. Remember this, we always adjust Intake #2 to match Intake #1 (don't mess/change Intake #1 for synching). Changing the idle rpms on the bike is a different banana. All for now, I will update if anybody needs more details of what we are about on this mod.

I decided to use Tyga's silencers that are used on their VFR400 kit. The current plan is to mount one on each side just below the passenger pegs.

95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.

Small update, cylinder head just about finished, intake cam back from being reground, hope to be able to be able to check valve to piston clearance soon and then get the head skimmed to increase compression a little. Adapted a car engine stand to take the MT07 engine to make working on it a little easier.

Been having fun. this bike is very trail capable. Beat this thru the muddy trails at 6000 ft above Boise in the rain and it took everything I gave it and keep wanting to go faster. This was up in Stanley, Idaho at the trailhead

Prepped for CMP (ASRA/CCS) this weekend. Third season on this bike, first season with white plates. Run most of the mid-Atlantic rounds and then Daytona if everything goes well. Tim

Update... ITS FIXED! Thanks for all the comments and help. I took the suggestion of putting the oem shifter back on to isolate the issue and verify if it was external or internal. The bike shifted fine, so external. Something I had noticed when swapping them, the shifter on my new rearsets didn't move nearly as easily as the oem. Found the problem...i had the bolt going through the rearsets too tight, causing too much resistance for the shift shaft spring to overcome to being it back to position between shifts. I put a little white lithium grease between the shifter/spacers, a little more loctite on the bolt, then put it on, with a little less torque so that it had a out the same resistance as stock. Shifting smooth as butter now. Thanks again for the assist, I hope I can return the favor one day. I saw a couple other posts with similar issues, hopefully this helps anybody going forward that deals with this.

Thanks everyone for the responses!! I eventually gave up and took it to the dealership. It confused the hell out of them for awhile too. They contacted some advanced Yamaha techs to look at it and they eventually found the problem. It was the stator. They told me it needed a new stator but I didn't want to pay their prices; almost $1000 for everything lol. I took it home, pulled the stator cover off, and found a short in the wire that runs to the stator. I spliced the wire, soldered it back together, and applied shrink wrap. I then put everything back together and it has run great ever since. Spent $100 for the diagnosis and maybe $10 at most for shrink wrap, wire, etcetera. Hopefully this information can help someone else down the line.

I installed my Flexi-Glass Bodywork this week. The Flexi-Glass is some of the nicest quality glass that I have and worked with. Also Trev is a plaeasure to do business with. I installed the bodywork with Robem's kit which is also great quality and fit. Actually, everything fit the first shot. The only trimming I need to do will be for the frame sliders, I just need to make to cresent shape reliefs in the upper fairing. I used Cam-Loc Series 4000 fasteners to attach the upper and lower fairings. These are adjustable. The base has a threaded insert that can be set to the correct depth and then locked in with a spring clip. This is a nice set up for fiberglass or other composites where the thickness can vary from location to location, Each fastener if the perfect length for each location. There is also a ton of room around my Akra - Ti exhaust. I need to remove my old Woodcraft FZ clip-ons and install my new Woodcraft standard clip-ons. So far I am really pleased with the fit, finish and results. Holes drilled for base and countersunk for rivets. Note the nice wide flange width. for Cam-Loc adjustable base. Insert is threaded. Spring locks into final position in notch. Installed and adjusted Unlatched Cam-Lok fastener with trim ring. How cool are these Cam-Lok Fasteners? I Need to remove old Woodcraft FZ Clip-ons and install the new lower Standard types. Plenty of clearance for the Akra-Ti

Traveled the 4.5 hours to Charleston, SC yesterday for a dyno tune today by Mike Godin at KWS Motorsports. My aRacer Super 2 ECU came with fuel and spark maps intended for a stock motor, and it has a wideband O2 module with autotune capability. The motor currently in my bike has a stock bottom end (crank, rods, and pistons) but the throttle bodies are bored, head is ported (by yours truly), Hordpower intake, and it has a set of mild Webcams ( stock valve springs, so lift is only slightly over stock and duration is longer but not by much). We used the autotune function on the dyno to develop the base fuel map, running steady state and ramps of varying duration and intensity. We then tinkered with the spark advance and the target AFRs, using 100 octane lightly-oxygenated gas, to see if there were any gains to be had. Although not fully familiar with the aRacer software, I was able to fill in enough blanks for Mike on how it works to get a good tune. aRacer uses some of the same nomenclature as other tuning software, but it means different things. Additionally, and most significantly, aRacer is unique in relying primarily on intake air pressure and rpm to determine fuel and spark, rather than on the more typical throttle position and rpm. Nonetheless, Mike has so much experience dyno tuning motorcycles that the entire process was only several hours. Part of the time was due to "someone's" failure to assure that the plug coils were fully jammed onto the spark plugs; so that added a bit of time. There is still some track tuning stuff to do like throttle transitions: fuel level on deceleration (engine breaking, sorta), and acceleration enrichment, and assuring the base fuel map is complete. The ECU has decent memory capacity, with data recording for the important variables, so I can a practice session and then review where changes in fuel might be appropriate. The KWS dyno is known to be a bit "generous", so the resulting power results might be plus a couple horsepower compared to another dyno. Still, for a mild build the power looks respectable. This morning, when the tuning was done, was the beginning of a "high horsepower day". The air was cool (60F degrees) and dry, and the atmospheric pressure was high. The "uncorrected" horsepower was a little over 97. I love these kinds of days!

Hi. I was hoping to build a new bike from scratch for the 2022 season (and I still may in a few months), but in the light of long lead times and parts availability, I decided to rebuild my existing bike, just to make sure that I'll have a bike ready for the start of pre-season. It's a 2017 Yamaha FZ-07, and it's what I rode last year in various club series (CCS, CMRA, CRA, ASRA, FMRRA, WERA). A good bike, but way ready for a rebuild. For 2022, I'm doing a season-entry MotoAmerica Twins cup, as well as some club races here and there. This will be my first season in MotoAmerica. To start, here's some pics of when it was pretty and powerful throughout 2021. (Next post will be a catalogue of its demise...) (A little history: I'm the third owner of this bike. Jim Whitten had it built, then Ryan Max Johnson raced it next. I picked it up at the end of 2020. People loved and recognized this paint scheme , but I'm excited to have one that's distinctively "mine" for 2022...)

P11 in Q2 so we dropped to the 4th row for the race. When the start lights went out Brett went to work and got it done. Finished in 7th even after blowing Canada corner and dropping 4.5 seconds that he clawed back to make a beautiful last lap pass to rectify! My best finish to date, thank you team!

The rest of my results... Even though I didn't get to compete in all the events I had hoped to, I did manage to get some good finishes. Overall class championship finishes with Central Roadracing Association Formula 40 F1 1st Lightweight SuperBike 2nd Lightweight Grand Prix 2nd Super Twins 3rd Overall CRA points 20th. Great results considering I did not run the final event with the CRA. I also attended the CCS round at Blackhawk Farms which was our 'away' event for the CRA, was also a CCS event that payed CRA points. Considering it was my first time at Blackhawk Farms, I was very happy with these results. 3rd in Formula 40 Lightweight 1st in Thunderbike 5th in Lightweight SuperBike 7th in Lightweight GrandPrix.

My 5th trackday this season.

So, the guy helping me with the adaptations just hasn't come through for me in a timely manner. I've been very patient but decided I just can't wait any longer. So, he delivered my bike in pieces to my house last weekend. He had taken it down to the frame because I wanted the frame, wheels and other bits powder coated gloss black. I started the build up on my own in a spare bedroom in my house last Monday. I've already almost got the bike assembled. Only things left are assembly of the wheels and installing the throttle bodies, wiring harness and electrics. I'll have it done within the next week. I've got a magnetic foot hold system (race tested) coming in from Finland this week, the Proshift electronic shifting is functional but the landing gear is not. If I have to use friends to catch and release me, I will because I want to be back on track this fall. Anyway, here are pics of my build up. Yea, I'm big time OCD and every single item is being spotlessly cleaned and any bearing or joint is being cleaned and freshly lubes.

I picked up a leftover 2019 MT-07 with 0 miles otd price $7167. $5999 before taxes and all the other dealer fees and registration.

We've been busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest but wanted to respond to Matt's post. I can't say enough about using these great forum vendors as resources instead of the cut rate cheesey hacks on eBay or Amazon to help with your projects. The level of support is second to none. I got daily texts and phone calls checking on progress, help problem solving, trouble shooting and technical advice that is simply non existent with the chinese/online/sell it cheaper crap dealers. These folks spend countless hours and dollars to develop and test their products, technique's and knowledge to give the rest of us what we seek. We, in turn, need to support them and not the peddlers of cheap knock offs and copies who forsake you as soon as your creditcard clears. I guarantee you'll never receive a phone call from China to trouble shoot your issue at 0530 trackside on a Sunday like from these guys! Blue Line Racing