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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/04/2021 in Posts

  1. 16 points
    I had some emergency surgeries this spring and summer so I was not able to get on the bike all year until a track day weekend Oct 30 & 31 at NCM Motorsports Park. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and the bike is working great. Here's a few pics.
  2. 6 points
    I'm going to try to be brief , but don't take this as being condescending or rude. Everybody has a different budget, and sometimes you ain't got the budget you used to have last year. I build tons of my own stuff because I'm cheap, and also because I'm not rich. That's aside, I've tried all sorts of bandaids on suspension stuff. The guy on the internet who spent $28 on fork oil and eBay preload caps and "completely transformed!!!!" his bike is lying to you. Perhaps not out of malice, maybe he really thinks it's better. IMO Dave Moss's "fix" for our "DANGEROUS" forks lands firmly in that category. Look at your own post. #2 Add preload. #3 Remove preload. Which is right? They can't both be right. There's no harm in tinkering. Go for it and have fun. 99% of the time the improvement you were looking for will cost you something on the other side of the coin. If you want it right, you know what you've got to do. It doesn't have to costs thousands to be real good, but it's not gonna be free. And when it's right, you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. I spent ages band-aid'ing bikes. I bit the bullet and did it right a while back. It's eye opening. Now, I just bought a new bike recently and immediately went out and ordered proper suspension for it. When you know the difference, you'll not have the patience for fiddling with internet fixes anymore. Good luck on your journey
  3. 5 points
    SUSPENSION....... Front and rear. You can pick up a decent entry-level aftermarket shock for about $500. I personally run K-Tech on all my bikes. Up front- at a minimum, get some "straight rate "springs for your body weight (about $110- $140). I went to the next level and did a Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit for $379 (which includes springs). You most like won't realize how bad the OEM/stock suspension is until you upgrade it.
  4. 4 points
    Prompted by some recent dissatisfaction with my front suspension which I will explain separately, I researched a lot of articles and forum posts on the topic. I found the information to be very scattered and quite a lot of contradictions, and I wanted to bring it all in one place in a structured way. This is not a recommendation rather a summary of available options. If I missed something, got something wrong or you have something to add, let me know in the comments and I will update it here. 1. Add more oil of the same viscosity What it does: Softens or prevents bottoming out under heavy compression e.g. if the springs are too soft for your weight. The air gap inside the fork acts as a progressive spring - the less air the harder it is to compress it. Difficulty: Easy. Can be done with the forks on the bike just need to remove the caps, add small quantities of oil at a time and test. Cost: Almost free, only need a little bit of fork oil. 2. Install fork caps with preload adjustment What it does: allows preload adjustment on the stock or aftermarket springs. The same thing can be achieved by switching between spacers of different lengths but the screw adjustment is more convenient. Difficulty: Easy. Can be done with the forks on the bike. Cost: $25-$60 when bought separately, they come included with some spring kits 3. Cut the spacers down 10-15 mm What it does: Reduces fork spring preload therefore allowing more static sag. That in turn lowers front ride height and decreases the trail and wheel base (slightly). It's routinely recommended by Dave Moss but it seems that some aftermarket springs (Ohlins, Race Tech) are shorter than stock, therefore achieving the same result. Difficulty: Easy. Just need to be able to cut a pipe or have a friend who can do it. Alternatively you can replace the spacers with shorter metal ones or cut shorter spacers from PVC pipe. Cost: free if you do it yourself 4. Raise the forks 8mm in the triple clamps What it does: Easier to steer? Lowers the handlebar and changes the geometry of the bike ever so slightly. Dave Moss recommends this together with points 3, 6 and sometimes 1(cut spacers, raise the forks, change oil to higher viscosity and sometimes add more oil). Difficulty: Easy. It is done with the forks on the bike. Cost: free 5. Replace springs and spacers with aftermarket ones What it does: Allows the rider to choose a spring rate that is better suited for their weight or preference (softer or harder). In theory the aftermarket springs could have tighter tolerances or be more durable. Some manufacturers have shorter than stock springs (Ohlins, Race Tech), different spacer length, may include caps with preload adjustment and they may recommend different oil levels and viscosities so points 1, 2, 3 and 6 also come into play. Difficulty: Easy. Can be done with the forks on the bike. Cost: $80-$250 for a pair of aftermarket springs 6. Replace fork oil with higher viscosity What it does: increases both compression and rebound damping. Actual viscosity may vary between manufacturers for the same rating (Bell Ray said to be thicker than others). Some users report a harsher ride overall. Difficulty: Medium. The forks need to be removed from the bike. Cost: oil and potentially labor if done by a shop. 7. Install gold valve emulators What it does: makes compression damping tunable, rebound damping remains unchanged. Rebound damping can be changed with different viscosity oil. Difficulty: Medium. The forks need to be taken apart and bigger or additional compression damping holes drilled. The valve emulators need to be fished out every time a compression damping adjustment is needed but that can be done with the forks on the bike. Cost: $200 for the emulators and adapters + work + maybe shipping 8. Install aftermarket fork cartridges What it does: allows for separate function and tunable compression and rebound damping, either through shims or remotely with adjustment screws in the fork caps. Difficulty: Difficult. Fork internals need to be replaced and they might need to be sent to the manufacturer or a tuner. Needs to be repeated if making changes to the shim stacks. Cost: $600+ for the cartridge kit + labor + shipping 9. Complete front forks or front end swap from R6 or other bikes What it does: Higher quality complete front ends are transplanted onto the MT-07. This can include larger diameter forks, upside-down forks, brakes, tunable suspension etc. Difficulty: Difficult. Depending on the chosen front ends, multiple mods and compromises might be necessary to make it fit. Cost: 1000+ depending on the make and model, if new or used etc. 10. Change the rear shock What it does: Technically this is not front end related, but users have reported improved front end operation after upgrading to aftermarket rear shocks set correctly for their weight. Difficulty: Medium. Requires replacement of the stock rear shock but it can be done by the owner. Cost: $500-$1500 for an aftermarket rear shock + labor if done by a shop.
  5. 3 points
    I managed to remove the standard airbox in one piece by carefully following Hord's instructions, but it is a bit fiddly. The Hordpower intake rocks, it makes noticeably more power.
  6. 3 points
    It's definitely worth it. The install is pretty easy..... Removing the "old" airbox = HARD ..... I started out being very patient (as most people do). After about 30 minutes of frustration, I cut the airbox into small pieces with a "sawzall" (carefully). This is the way I would do it again- if I had to. The Hordpower intake is probably the BEST $300 I ever spent on my bike!!!! Good luck-
  7. 3 points
    Lone Wolf is 100% correct. They're made of the same stuff as auto brakes hoses and how often do we change those? I'll just add that I've never seen where changing to stainless steel lines drastically improved the brakes of anything, unless the preexisting hose was somehow deteriorated/damaged and it was actually bulging in use. Aftermarket stainless steel lines are sometimes cheaper than OEM parts, so I'll use them. I just never saw where they did much, so I wouldn't drop a couple hundred dollars expecting big results. I believe your idea of budgeting for a shock first is a great idea! That's something really get a big improvement from.
  8. 3 points
    Suspension. Ohlins does a shock for $695 and the fork kits will run around $300-500 (not cartridges, but damper change and springs). If you look around you may find a lightly used shock for less than $400. There was one for sale recently either in the XSR forum or here. Maybe the shock for a 900 is the same, I don't know. The exhaust is more for looks and noise than any appreciable gain. Plus you end up spending a bundle on remapping ECUs if doing intake and exhaust modifications. You can burn through $1000 real fast and possibly not gain near as much noticeable performance gain in your riding as you would with a decent shock and fork kit would give you for the riding you mention. Plus the comfort from the better suspension too.
  9. 3 points
    I have seen motorcycles from the 1980's with original brake lines. It's not like they are going to "pop" and spill fluid on the road when you are trying to stop. Do it when YOU want to do it. I wouldn't bother until other things need attention and you have a 2nd bike to ride during the down time. I change fluid once a year. Unless you want better initial bite from HH Pads, you would NOT need to touch your pads with that low miles. I bet you could get over 30,000 miles on stock pads before wear becomes an issue. Sometimes pads can get glazed, so it's a matter of paying attention to how they are performing. But don't just toss pads that are working fine for the street.
  10. 3 points
    Fwiw I've had mates run round track in the fastest group with nothing but a shock on his mt07. I won't be changing anything and will run in the middle group. Im not convinced this bike needs more than a shock. Many people read rubbish on the internet then get it done. Nothing wrong with it. As for the "you'll know" well yes it may feel nicer but you won't necessarily use it or go any quicker on the roads or track.
  11. 3 points
    Great job Julian! Here are my initial thoughts, for what they are worth. 1. Adding oil does not change damping, either rebound or compression. What it does is reduce the space for air in the fork so that under significant compression of the fork the compressed air acts as a bottom out spring. So, if your fork is bottoming too harshly and readily, adding sufficient oil will soften the bottoming or prevent it outright because of the sudden ramp up in effective fork spring rate caused by the compressed air in the forks. 3. Changing the length of the spacer in each fork changes the preload on the spring but it doesn't directly change anything else. Shortening the spacer will, therefore, reduce fork spring preload and should result in more static sag at the front. The increased static sag should bring with it a lower front ride height and a slightly steeper steering head angle. If you change the fork preload and at the same time raise or lower the forks in the triple tree, you can keep the same geometry and front ride height you started with notwithstanding the change in preload. Keep in mind that changing spring preload does not change the spring rate; it merely changes the length of the spring at a given load on the spring. Dave Moss's suggestion to shorten the fork spacers is based on his view that an unladen motorcycle (no rider) should cause the fork to sag (compress) by around 5mm or so. 4. Raising the forks in the triples reduces front ride height, increases the steering head angle, and shifts some weight from the rear tire to the front tire. The motorcycle will want to change direction more readily and with less effort; it will also be accordingly less stable in a straight line. Whether you want more agility or more stability is a personal choice that should be based on the kind of riding you do and what you prefer. 5. The springs are what holds the bike up. If you and your bike are 30 or more pounds heavier or lighter than the loads for which the stock springs seem intended by the manufacturer (sometimes hard to understand what the manufacturer intends), you should consider changing the springs accordingly. With the proper springs for the combined weight of you (and any passenger) and the bike, and your riding style and environment, you can have the desired unladen sag and laden sag, operate the suspension within the middle of its travel (where it works best), and avoid bottoming out the suspension with consequent loss of traction. Springs and their preload work together, so changes to fork spring rates should also include changes in preload (via spacers or adjustable fork caps). 6. With the stock forks, heavier weight oil increases both compression and rebound damping and lighter weight oil reduces both types of damping. Cheap damper rod forks like the 07's often benefit from more damping for race track use where the extra control over chassis movement is welcome and the loss of compliance matters little because the surface is smooth(er). 7. Gotta love Race Tech's Gold Valve emulators! See here for what they do and how: https://racetech.com/page/title/Emulators-How They Work . If you are patient and understand what you're doing and what you want, the combination of emulators, correct springs, preload spacers (or adjustable caps), fork oil viscosity, and fork height can create an excellent front suspension. The only real disadvantage is that adjustment, especially of damping, is time consuming because you need to remove and adjust the emulators and perhaps change the fork oil viscosity. 8. If you want or need quick easy damping adjustability, fork cartridges are your only option (short of all new forks). I have Ohlins cartridges on my race bike and I'm reasonably pleased with them. Compression and rebound adjustments are done externally with wrenches,and preload is adjustable with the fork caps. If the manual adjustments and oil viscosity changes don't get you what you want, the shim stacks that control separately compression and rebound damping can be changed (this requires specialized tools and sophisticated knowledge; so you'll want to work with an experienced suspension tuner who understands how to get you what you want). 9. The final front end option for an 07 is to install R6 forks (and brakes) with suitable triples. The stock forks flex a bit, especially under heavy braking, which is the primary reason for going to R6 forks rather than merely installing cartridges in the stock forks. The R6's bigger discs and radial mount calipers also generate more braking force with less effort than the stock pieces. If you're handy with tools, this isn't a tough swap but you'll want to start with a complete R6 front end (wheel, brakes, front master cylinder, clip ons, etc.) and then get a suitable triple tree, as an example: https://www.robemengineering.com/product-page/fz-07-mt-07-adjustable-triple-clamps-50mm-forks . The R6 forks are adjustable for preload, and rebound and compression damping, but can also benefit from reshimming or aftermarket cartridges. 10. Yes, it can be difficult sometimes to isolate fork problems from shock problems. An underdamped rear shock can cause all sorts of problems for the front of the motorcycle. The stock shocks also wear out fairly quickly, providing still less damping and offer little (rebound damping since '18, I think?) or no adjustability beyond preload. I think reasonable people could disagree over whether to upgrade forks or shock as a higher priority. I think two other items are worth mentioning. First, for track use with the stock forks, consider aftermarket triple clamps to get the trail and fork angle you want for both quick turn in and reasonable stability in a straight line. Second, the shock "knuckle" isn't ideal for track use; too much progressivity and not enough swing arm angle. See, for example: https://www.robemengineering.com/product-page/fz-07-linear-linkage .
  12. 2 points
    The ordering has begun. Before I do anything I'll get some photos but we should all know what the stock bike looks like. Today we ordered probably the most important items this bike needs. Suspension. We will be putting Andreani cartridges in the front and a Penske shock in the rear. Also on the order list are Woodcraft rearsets, frame sliders, and axle sliders. I was a bit extra lucky today since there was another MT07 in the shop today with the Akrapovic exhaust on it with the db killer installed. It seemed quiet enough. So now I'm a bit torn because I thought I settled on the Graves but now I'm unsure.
  13. 2 points
    I think you are referring to the blinkers acting as daytime running lights to make you more visible. It's a feature, not a bug.
  14. 2 points
    AIM Solo 2 hands down. Why? Predictive lap feature. Single most useful feature that'll make you actually get faster and learn a track quick. You can experiment with lines, gear selection, etc DURING a lap an know right them and there if it made you faster. Example: get to the point where you have consistent lap times. Say you run a 2 minute lap. Do something drastically different on turn 1. Glance down when in predictive mode and see if it's negative or positive. If it's negative, you went faster and whatever you did (different line, different gear, etc) worked. After you discover what works, move on to the next corner and do the same thing. The goal is to see a negative time after the corner you are working on. Works like a champ!
  15. 2 points
  16. 2 points
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  17. 2 points
    The 3 wire variant is from 2018-2020 model, the 2 wire variant should be from 2014-2016 (or something like this?). I have wiring diagrams which show this. I don't know what I did wrong, I can't upload pictures of wiring diagram because of 0.02 MB upload limit, sry The SD-19 error code is related to the issue with the now not connected black/red wire of the three wire connector. This black/red wire supplies the starting circuit cut of relay, which is the one the sidestand switch is connected to. The ECU can't read the state of the sidestand switch now.
  18. 2 points
    I got it out, MORE WD-40, A LOT MORE, and hammering on Vise Grips seemed to do the trick. Put in the 09 baffle and that is stuck now But i'm okay with that, sounds great!
  19. 2 points
    If your in the states buy a Hordpower airbox and release a few more hp.
  20. 2 points
    FZ09 wheels also interchange. You can use abs wheels on non-abs bikes, but not vice versa.
  21. 2 points
    Fading is caused by the coefficient of friction between the pads and disk dropping due to high temperature. I've never had stock lines swell from heavy brake use. I can see how it might seem like they are though... when brakes fade you end up pulling the lever to the bar trying to stop, with little stopping actually happening.
  22. 2 points
    My vote is to spend your money on upgrading the front and rear suspension. This is the only place that needs improving imho.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
    Perhaps unless the bike has been stored outside for most of its life or otherwise exposed to high levels of ozone, I can't imagine the rubber lines have deteriorated yet. Nonetheless, the switch to braided lines makes a big difference in how the brakes feel and, along with a change to pads with stronger initial bite, the bike will will slow/stop quicker and with just two fingers. If the brake fluid is dark, it should be replaced. My guess is that the fork oil is original as well and should be replaced, at least if you want as much damping as the original units can generate. The stock shock might not be doing much damping any more either, so I'd put it on the list for replacement before a bunch of do-dads that don't effect the bike's performance. Installing new brake lines, at least non-ABS, is fairly easy with the proper hand tools. For ABS, if there are any special tools needed or bleeding sequence, it'll be in the shop manual (which you should obtain). The toughest part is getting all of the air bled out of the new lines. YouTube features a wide array of videos on how to do it. Vacuum and powerbleeders work best but a clean bottle with proper size clear hose can get the job done. I suggest you avoid draining the master cylinder if you can, because it can be challenging getting the last teeny tiny bubbles of air out if it.
  25. 2 points
    From personal experience I've learned that to race competitively against typically heavier motorcycles with more horsepower and torque, you'll need to get through the corners quicker than they do. Your quicker corner exit speed will help to offset your relative lack of acceleration and lower top speed. In contemporary MotoGP terms, think Yamaha versus Ducati. This is why I mentioned suspension and tires. The stock suspension on an 07 is fine on the street but the geometry is far from ideal for racing, and the forks and shock need to be altered or replaced outright to give you more damping and adjustability. There are many postings here with extensive discussions about the options for optimizing the suspension. Then you'll also want to us the highest grip tires allowed by the rules, and to make the bike as light as possible (my 07 weighs about 330 pounds with full bodywork and a gallon of fuel). An 07 motor can be built to get the bike to 230kph (143mph), but its going to need a long straight to get there. And it is going to be expensive to build and operate (race gas, frequent rebuilds). Engine-wise: high compression pistons (12.5 or 13:1); connecting rods (Carrillo); high lift, longer duration camshafts; heavy duty valve springs; ported head; bored throttlebodies; at least a Hordpower intake or better, a sealed airbox with ducting from front of motorcycle; lightened flywheel and sprag; undercut and shimmed transmission gears; slipper clutch, a fully-tunable ECU with quick-shift, and a quality exhaust system. To have a motor built like this in the U.S., I'd budget $8000 to $10,0000 if I couldn't do the build myself. Check out these websites for parts and other info: Robem Engineering | Lightweight Twins Racing| United States Custom Engineered Road Race solutions for lightweight twins racing. Winning results in both MotoAmerica and Club Level racing... https://www.twfracing.com/ ; HPR - Hordpower, Art of Twins HPR - Hordpower : - Hawk SV 650 RC-51 Penske Shocks Triumph 675 Daytona Batteries Yamaha FZ-09/07 honda, suzuki, hawk, sv... ; Spears Enterprises / Spears Racing World Headquarters Spears Enterprises & Spears Racing And even with all this, you're going to have to ride better than your competition with more power to beat them. It just might be easier, cheaper and more fun to just get a bigger HP bike. Good luck!
  26. 2 points
    The Mt 09 is night and day quicker. Then adding in things like slipper clutch etc means you're very much not on an even footing. Sell bike, buy mt09. No one else cares you're on an 07, the only thing they care about is your finish position. Even then, they only care you beat them. Unless you're 13 years old, you won't be called by Red Bull, it's just you and your memories 20 years down the line telling your kids "I could have been a contender if my bike was quicker" they're sitting thinking "why didn't you just get a quicker bike dad" Sorry to be blunt. But when racing, have a competitive bike.
  27. 2 points
    I did a quick test around the block. I though it would be very noticeable when starting from a stop but it's not. If someone changed it without you knowing it would probably take you a while to notice. You do gear up faster and are in 3rd in no time. It's like twist, gear up, twist gear up and you're at cruising speed. You run out of rpm in 1st pretty quickly. I noticed some jerkiness but it might be due a bit of stickiness that I still found after I got back, with the handlebars turned to the max, or to the fact that I'm not yet used to a more nervous throttle. I'll keep an eye on it over the next few days.
  28. 2 points
    I did a similar thing... the small bolt in the middle is not the one you need to loosen. I believe its an 8mm allen that fits in the outer section and that will loosen the whole bar end weight. Good luck.
  29. 2 points
    I admire your guts, energy, and commitment. I hope our paths will cross at a southeast WERA event next season.
  30. 2 points
  31. 2 points
  32. 2 points
  33. 2 points
  34. 2 points
    Wheeling and stunting no problem, not enough oil pressure= big problems.
  35. 2 points
    I think the biggest difference is the low oil level, also an engine can only be abused for so long before something breaks. I hope it does not end up being an expensive fix for you. I am curious what you find.
  36. 2 points
    Low on oil, wheelies, high revs then rattling engine, Sorry but I think that motors going be quite sick.
  37. 2 points
    I've done front end swaps, but I certainly wouldn't not on this bike. The stock geometry is so good, why mess with it. I replaced my shock immediately. Major improvement and I happily rode like that for the next few years. The fork was never really offensive, but it was harsh compared to a good shock. I messed around here and there with different oils and spring spacers, but there were no real results. Any thicker oil just makes the fork even more harsh. After a few years of not spending any bike money I decided to splurge on the forks. I went with Ohlins cartridge kit, but there's cheaper options. Since the fork was never offensive like the shock was, I kinda felt like I was wasting money, and ultimately I was worried that the kit would make the bike too racy and ride hard. It ended up being perfect. The eye opening part was how much better the bike cornered with the front end fixed. I'm not talking about racing or track days, I'm just talking about daily riding on back roads. The shock is really bad, the forks are decent. When they're both right, it's damn surprising how good it feels, but I could live with an 07 with just a good shock.
  38. 2 points
    I did a track day yesterday at my local track. A rider I know showed up with a New R7,which by the way is a very nice machine. We compared bikes in the pits, looking for differences and trying to determine what components could be interchanged. He was very interested in my Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akrapovic Ti exhaust. This guy is a talented rider and when I was following him, I noticed how much the R7 is a true sportbike. The R7 allows the rider get low on the bike, hang off and tuck in easier. The R7 seat and tail allow for a lot of front to back movement as well. Again they did a nice job. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be between my modified FZ and a stock engined FZ or in this case an R7. In the clip below, you can see me follow him onto the front straight, close in and pass. I knew my bike made more power and pulled longer than it did stock, however this shows a real world difference. Money well spent in my opinion. The R7 will have a Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akra Ti VERY soon. My GoPro Adventure - 10/1/21 Shared using GoPro Ed
  39. 2 points
    #1 is incorrect. The oil level is always above the damping/valving parts of the fork, so they're always completely submerged in oil. Adding oil can't make them change their damping. Adding more oil of the same viscosity reduces the air space, causing the air pressure to increase faster on fork compression. This raises the effective spring rate, which would be similar to installing stiffer springs. Since the air volume inside changes quickly with fork compression, it's non-linear, so it behaves like progressive springs. If a fork is bottoming out under hard braking, for example, adding oil can stop that, but it's due to the higher effective spring rate, not increased damping.
  40. 2 points
    Plus I'm sure the ECU needs up to a turn of the cam to figure out where the crank and cam are so it knows when to fire the plugs. That could be up to two turns of the crankshaft. My MT starts perfectly, immediately runs smoothly, and does a bit of a fast idle for a minute or two, whether it's 95 degrees out or 40 degrees out. It clearly runs a richer mixture for starting and warmup than it does when the engine is warm.
  41. 2 points
  42. 1 point
    you can also buy the toolkit from yamaha parts or partzilla, etc. heres a link to the kit from one of the 2020 mt's, it's $9 plus shipping Attention Required! | Cloudflare https://www.partzilla.com/product/yamaha/B4C-28100-00-00?ref=9aa7e93c80e0671718f032d9c23877b7fce40f7d idk why it comes up as attention required, here's the link unembedded
  43. 1 point
    With a little bit of brake piston grease applied around the bleeder thread you can seal this area against incoming air.
  44. 1 point
    Yeah, stock lines have a lot of cord woven into them for reinforcement, so they really don't expand as much as the term "rubber hose" would make you think. I've replaced stock lines with braided stainless on other motorcycles, and like you, I didn't think the difference was particularly noticeable. It certainly can't change the lever force required, since that's determined by the piston ratios and pads. If I found my brakes spongy I would consider steel braided lines, but I don't. On the other hand EBC HH pads are very good, and I believe they could made a noticeable difference.
  45. 1 point
    I’m getting it diagnosed on Monday then I will let u k what’s wrong
  46. 1 point
    Ummmm yeah, sorry I have to agree. Plugs aren't directly relevant but if a valve is bent, you might find some aluminum on the electrodes. Main and rod bearings,and cam journals need constant oil pressure. I wonder how the oil smells; it could've gotten very hot, further contributing to the lack of lubrication.
  47. 1 point
    I have not riveted a chain before and am pretty sure I screwed it up. The top rivet looks almost flush and is pushed through on the back. Can this be fixed or do I need a new master link? I am scared to ride it as it is until I have some expert opinions.
  48. 1 point
    Good review here.
  49. 1 point
    It's a balance between being using authority on the shifter and just banging on the bike. Luckily, bike transmissions are notoriously durable, so an oops here and there isn't the end of the world. Every bike is different, every pair of boots is different. If you find yourself often having trouble lifting the lever up past neutral to find second gear you might want to consider adjusting your shift lever to sit lower. Mine was really high when new and I had to adjust it down.
  50. 1 point
    Deltran Get the Battery tender and the USB Port. You do have to connect them to the battery though. Its very easy. I have the USB port nest to my clutch. It runs to the battery. The tender connection is right next to it. When I use the tender I just connect it. When the tender os not in use I connect the USB. Its simple. https://www.batterytender.com/BatteryTender-800-12V-800-mA-USA-Western-Hemisphere
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