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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    Thought I'd share this upgrade I did recently on my MT07. It came about from owning both an R3 and MT07 at the same time, and absolutely hating the way the MT07 switch gear worked, as well as the "parts bin" look of the switch with it's missing component on the right-hand side. Anyway, I decided to install an MT03 switch instead primarily because it's so much easier to operate while riding with far more tactile switches that are also positioned better. A bonus is that it looks a lot better too and like it was actually designed for the bike. It's not quite plug and play and took some testing with a multimeter and perusing the wiring diagrams to sort out but in the end is very simple to do, especially now that I've deciphered it. So here you go, for anyone who hates the stock switch, grab one from a MT03 and follow the steps below. IMPORTANT: The R3 switch will not work. Although the switch is identical, the R3 has separate low beam and high beam circuits for each bulb and so the green wire at Pin 10 does not exist on the R3 switch. The correct part number is B04-H3972-00 from a 2016 onwards MT03. The incorrect part number is 1WD-H3972-00 from a 2016 onwards R3.
  2. 8 points
    So I silently volunteered myself to be a guinea pig for the benefit of my fellow forum members. I think im the first person to slap the "new" 2018 rear shock on a first generation bike. I would like to get a few things out in the open before I give my thoughts. 1st, ive got just over 10,000 miles on my 2017 with stock suspension. Only change ive made is 10mm additional preload in the front forks-so i feel well qualified to have an opinion on the stock 2017 rear shock. It sucks. It really, really sucks. 2nd, im not a track rider or even really an advanced rider. 3rd, the 2018 shock is not track ready equipment. 4th, im still on the original bt023 tires. 5th, my bike is primarily a commuter. 55 miles daily with a mix of 80mph freeway and rutted chewed up city streets. However, ive burned through a couple hundred miles with this new shock and wanted to share my thoughts on this upgrade. Im 205lbs and 5 ft 9 for reference. The 2018 shock is FAR better at bump absorbing, road tracking and generally rear tire stability. I have good rear sag with the shock in the stock 4th click. I did some testing on the rebound adjuster and found for street use it seems to ride best right around the middle. When i brake hard and fast the nose only tips forward slightly. When i lean into 25mph darts across intersections, my back tire no longer feels like its skipping across the pavement. There are several turns on my way home from work that cross rail road tracks. Ive been hitting those same 40 mph(speed zone) turns at 55mph for almost 2 years now. Those railroad tracks would bump me off the seat and the bike would cycle up and down 2 or 3 times at least and wiggle unstably throught the turn. I just got used to lifting my bottom off the seat. With the new shock i hit those same turns at the same speed. The rear shock compresses and then pushes back down on the pavement. Doesnt bump me out of the seat and the bike doesnt wiggle while trying to settle itself. Ya know. Like a rear shock is supposed to. The bike feels exponentially more stable in all the corners ive tossed it into since i put the 2018 shock on. I also dont have to stand over the seat for small or even moderate bumps anymore. It tracks better, feels less squirelly in corners and is much more comfortable now. Also noticed it isnt as wiggly on the highway, perticularly when passing large vehicles. So in conclusion, no its not an ohlins. No its not a ktech or wilbers. But for the $270 they cost new or under $100 they can be found used(rare on ebay but they do come up) its a massive improvement to the whole experience. And unlike the cbr shock it requires no airbox mods. For the price on a street ridden bike id do it again. Please if anyone has any questions im happy to answer them. TLDR-the 2018 rear shock is way better than the 2015-2017 rear shock and isnt expensive. Worth considering if you want to improve the bike but dont have $500 to buy something nicer and arent planning to hit the track.
  3. 7 points
    When I get back from the track later in the week I'll put a how to up for a rotor upgrade. We did a 3 hour endurance race today. Finished 4th in class (9) and 13th overall of 23 teams. I'll take that. We ran out of gas 100 yards from the finish line at the checkered flag and coasted across dead in the water, lol. Just like we planned it Our team, that's me, Tony and Nate, each on our own bikes. We led or were in second for first half of the race before a red flag and restart. Then started to falter a bit. Oh well, had a blast. More racing tommorow and a track day Monday, woot!
  4. 6 points
    So it's days like this at the track that prompt dangerous levels of thought, I've been chasing a problem with parasitic drag in the front brakes when it's raced hard and the brakes get very hot. It's not terminal levels of drag but it is noticeable as the system gets super hot. I've swapped calipers, changed pads, fluid, master cylinder, checked runout, tried different discs etc, all w/o effect. So it dawns on me to try replacing the semi-floater buttons with full-floater buttons. The logic is that when the system heats and the brakes are released and the pistons are allowed to retract due to seal resilience that the disc itself is following one pad because of spring pressure from the stock riveted buttons that utilize a wave style spacer spring under the button head. We're only talking a couple tenthousandths but? Replacing them with flat shim style buttons should theoretically let the disc remain centered between the pads and not brush against one of the pads causing the drag? Here I've removed one of the stock buttons for measurement and I think I've located proper sized clip style substitutues. What could possibly go wrong? Got some of these ordered up, Sure I could just order some uprated discs but where's the challenge? I refuse to abandon the stock forks front end and want to find a way to stay with the stock rotors as well, not to mention it's a lot cheaper to upgrade the stockers. Did have a great day last weekend playing on the refreshed shock, bedding in some new pads and D.I.D. chain and burning up some more take-offs... Will try out the new brakes at next race in 2 weeks. Then it's off to Pittsburgh for the next motoamerica round. Hopefully I can find a couple more mph for Tony.
  5. 6 points
    New to this forum and have been reading non stop for a day, lots of good info. I am not new to bikes but have not owned one for 10 years so getting back into riding. 53 years old and in Michigan. Picking up a 2017 with 3800 miles on it for a great deal imho. Needs a little work but just gives me an excuse to do some mods. Thanks
  6. 6 points
    Hello everyone: I joined here in October of '14, when I bough my 2015 red FZ-07. Enjoyed the company and the sh*t talking . In the spring of '17 I started taking blood pressure medication. Talk about woozy! I eventually got used to it and finally took a long ride in October of '17. But then I started to cough, day and night (worst at night), a dry cough that would go nowhere but left me drained. Then a dear friend of mine died of lung cancer... When you are over sixty, have had some smoking in the past and now have a dry cough all the time, you make deductions about your own health that are not really rational... Come to find out that the blood pressure medication I was using DID have, between other, the well known side effect of continuous dry cough. So I switched medication, and this one failed miserably. Finally, about 9 months ago, on my third try, I was given a medication that seems to be working, without side effects but has gone through 3 recalls already Two days ago I said to myself: go ride. If you enjoy it, keep the darn bike. If not, sell it and face your age. I had not ridden in 18 months. I pumped the tire, charged the battery and put some fresh gas in it. The poor thing sounded awful. After half a can of Seafoam, things started to smooth out. Yesterday went out again: some hesitation above 7k rpm, but better. Today went out for the third time in a row. 60 miles later, sweaty, exhilarated and with a purring bike I told my wife: I keeping it! This afternoon I started looking at farkles again. I am back! Marco Beware: Crazy Physics Professor
  7. 6 points
    Hello all. Picked up a new 2019 MT07 about two weeks ago. It's my first bike with any real power. About 10 years ago I had a ninja 250 briefly, then I got a honda grom this season to get myself back into riding and then decided to pick this up as my main bike. I plan on keeping it a long time since it's so versatile. I just clocked in 1k miles today and it's been a blast. Honestly, I made the mistake of only looking at the spec sheet saying it had 75hp and didn't realize how powerful this thing is in the real world. I was certainly surprised the first time I got on it in 1st and 2nd lol. I've also been very impressed with it's fuel economy. I'm averaging around 57 so far. I'm getting more and more used to it and as my skills improve, the bike becomes even more fun with every ride. The only thing I don't like so far is that it's a bit windy on the highway after about 70 (i know a windscreen can help with that) and the seating position has me just slightly too far forward. I've found it hurts my back a bit after extended rides. So I might be looking into a windscreen and possibly different handlebars someday. Anyway, Here are some pics in it's natural habitat: Ohio country roads!
  8. 6 points
    Officially celebrating this baby's 5th birthday, 50K miles.
  9. 5 points
    Hi! Traded in my Ninja 300 a couple weeks ago after clocking over 33,000 miles (commuter) on it in just over 3.5 years! I'm now the proud owner of a new 2018 MT-07 and am loving it. Excited about all of the great info, resources, guides, etc. available here (thanks to all who have contributed). I've already swapped out the exhaust for the Yamaha Yoshimura Y-Series full system, Yamaha heated grips, Motodynamic Fender Eliminator and TST Industries LED turns signals. I've also added a Givi Tanklock tank bag. I've got a windscreen on order and some adjustable rearsets that should be here today.
  10. 5 points
  11. 5 points
    Hello all Three weeks ago I got my mitts on a 2017 MT-07 here in Switzerland (12.5k Km on the clock), so decided it was time to join the community. This is a pic as it was in the dealer parking lot. Previous owner had done some modifications I would have done myself too, like: Reach adjustable levers LED indicator lights Tail tidy/removal LED tail light Bar end mirrors Crash protectors on the side (is that the right name? bobbins?) He also added a screen as you can see, and some panniers. The panniers I rarely use, but they come in handy when needed. The screen is not to my taste, so has come off. I've been lurking around the forum for a few days, and there's some very useful info here! I have some mods planned, which I'll try to document as I go along. In the plan are: Instrument cluster relocation (bracket is on order). The current position puts it outside my field of view Already discovered the halogen front light is rather pathetic (even after adjusting height) so will likely replace that with an LED bulb Heated grips: probably the Yamaha OEM ones, or may be I'll take a punt on some cheap Chinese ones. Either way I'll likely put them behind a relay. Don't like the big ugly controller on the Oxford ones Will likely add a voltmeter, I like to understand what the bike is doing I'll probably add some auxiliary front lights to make myself more visible, need to find a solution that doesn't look too hideous Previous owner didn't install a radiator guard, so it's not looking as shiny as I'd like. I may replace it with an after-market unit. Have seen one somewhere that is a little deeper than the OEM part, may help with cooling, but not really thought about it much This is my first bike after a 20yr hiatus. Life took an unexpected turn, so time to have fun again! and boy is this bike insane. I use it mostly in the city, and this thing is massively overpowered for city life. Scooters don't stand a chance at the lights! . On the motorway slip road it'll go from 30pkh to >100kph in third gear. First time I did that it felt like someone punched me in the stomach! haha. Just received the Haynes manual for it. Oh boy, this thing is complicated, but I'm undeterred... aiming to do all the work on it, wish me luck!
  12. 4 points
    Many bikes in many years , have had my MT 07 two weeks & have just under 600 miles on the clock . I love the bike more with every ride , so light yet so powerful . Also have a HD Street Rod XG 750A that bike is over 100 lbs heaver with less hp. I will try to post a pic , in this pic I have a touring wind screen on which I have sense removed . With that screen you get a bar wiggle behind a big truck or at speed in the wind . Also lots of helmet buffeting . I put on a cheep small screen & its much better ! Also I installed a set of Renthal mid street bars , they are two inches wider & a touch higher .
  13. 4 points
    This just in; New full floating rotors virtually eliminate parasitic drag & lower rotor temps 50-100°F*. Not perfect but getting there. Win win. * Tough to get accurate-repeatable comparison temps due to track traffic and length of pit lane. Trying.
  14. 4 points
    Hello, bought myself 2018 yamaha mt07. My last one was KTM450 supermoto. Just done brake in on it. Moved to Alabama from Garlinburg TN. Still my favorite place to ride! Originally from Russia
  15. 4 points
    Hi All, Just saying hello from Ireland and also saying I'm loving this bike. I've had about 40 bikes in a similar amount of years riding and this MT is definitely one of the best.
  16. 4 points
    Reg ole steel(OEM) style sprockets can last a long time vs fancy light(alum, hybirds,etc) weight ones... My general rule is if chain/sprocket is less than a few thousand miles old I will swap out parts but once they start going past 5-7k miles I feel better off replacing both chain and sprocket... The reason I replace both chain/sprocket is because "they" wear in together...if one replaces just the chain at approx 15k miles even if the sprocket don't "look" worn (eyeballing) you will chew up the new chain fairly quickly.. They are consumables in my book- just like car brake pads/rotors( you replace both inner and outer pads) and machine the rotors(if cheaper than buying new ones)... FYI: Yamaha kinda irked me using 525 sized chain instead of a 520 sized chain... Not alot of aftermarket for 525 vs 520... Even new R1s have 520 chains ... I find 520 is stocked in stores quite a bit vs 525... ------ you can use 520 size chain if you also get 520 sized sprockets----
  17. 4 points
    I too want to get into beating this dead horse (I am back at posting after a long time so I am resurrecting this old thread ...). I like engine braking. Perhaps because I learned how to drive with drum brakes that stopped the vehicle ...next week. But also because I am lazy: the FZ07 (I can't make myself use the new name) is such a little torque monster that downshifting when slowing down is not all that necessary. Just lay off the throttle a bit and then get back on it. If everyone liked things the same way, the world would be very boring... Marco
  18. 4 points
    Bought a month ago new previous year's mt-07, the one with neon green wheels. Bike is planned purely for recreation to improve mood and get fresh air as I work from home. In the past I used to commute on ninja 250 for around 10 years but recently I was bikeless for 6 years so it will take some time getting comfortable riding again and getting skills back. So far I like the bike quite a lot. Pretty good step up from 250. Way much more fun but not dangerously. Was a bit confused by throttle jerkiness and sharp engine breaking but after tensioning loose chain and after couple hundred miles it seemes a bit smoother. As I understand ECU flash might help but I plan to just try getting used to it and learning smoother throttle control this year. Not planning any modifications beside frame sliders. Not sure about why everyone rushes in with tail tidying and exhausts, looks like a good way to throw dirt at yourself and piss off neighbors. Thinking about getting some inexpensive luggage in addition to backpack to get extra riding time from quick grocery store runs.
  19. 4 points

    From the album: MY 07 :)

    great place to escape the Vegas heat
  20. 4 points
    Without sharing his personal medical history. He is out of the hospital, but has a long road to full recovery ahead of him-
  21. 4 points
    Hello folks Just dropped by to say hello I have purchased a 2019 MT07 in Black. Bought the bike for commuting, however I have really started to enjoy the wild side of the bike, great fun in the twisties. Also run an older 1200GS for those longer days in the saddle and touring, but I feel the little MT could cope just as well. It would certainly make me travel light. Just fitted a small touring screen which has worked well, keeps the wind off the chest and no buffering from it either. Currently ride around the North West of the UK, with the odd tour in Europe.
  22. 4 points
    Those square jobbies just happened to be what was already attached, but I don't mind the look and they're bright since they have real bulbs and amber lens'. DRZ cowl might not be for everyone, but I dig the look. Found a dude eBay selling his unused rim stickers and nabbed them for $12.99. Coupled with the new headlight situation, I like the muscle bike vibe.
  23. 4 points
  24. 4 points
  25. 4 points
    So, I got the bored out throttle bodies back... Remember that intake solution I mentioned? I just installed it I've collaborated with CarbonSmith and MWR to make it reality. I originally wanted a simple plate design with a custom MWR filter, but when MWR said they were extremely busy with World Superbike development, I came up with a different plan they could execute much more easily. I'm glad I did. The new intake solution is a velocity stack design by CarbonSmith, utilizing MWR's *universal* pod filters. When tested on a mildly built motor, it made 4.5 more than the plate type design with a K&N filter, without loosing anything below.. We did try the plate design with a custom Unifilter (since a custom MWR filter was unavailable due to WSBK constraints) and it also did good, but the velocity stack set up was still the best. Keep in mind this was with no additional tuning at all, and the Performance filter material from MWR. Since the results were so positive, I asked MWR to make me the pod filters in the RACE filter material, which is the same material they use for all the WSBK filters. Since they just had to make the filters out of RACE material and not design a custom filter from scratch, they did it for me no problem. I can't wait to see the results. You can see the RACE material vs the Performance material in the pics below. The RACE material is much more porous, and you can actually see through it. Keep your fingers crossed
  26. 3 points
    The “Cup Your Butt Seat” Hi, my name is “Ray”, and I have a tender butt. (Pause for reply) It’s been like that since birth. Falling on it as a youth resulted in days of being on the butt respirator. If you suffer from tender butt and haven’t found a comfortable seat for your FZ07, then this article may be what you have been looking for. You may be able to address your embarrassing tender butt anonymously by reading this article. Other riders have experienced good results with the Yamaha Comfort seat; not me. The ASTech custom gel insert; not me. The Airhawk Air Seat; not me. A piece of gel in a liner; not me. If you’re like me, you have a sore butt after only about 1/2 hour of riding. Well, now there’s the “Cup Your Butt” seat design, by yours truly; me. Here you go: The solution is simple: Cut some quilt batting the shape of your stock seat, excluding about 3" from wide back and 5" the narrow front. You’ll need about 25 layers. Then, layer by layer, cut them a tad shorter on the wide end by about 1/8” each; in other words, each layer gets shorter than the prior later by about 1/8". Put a nice ½” gel pad under it and make sure it is about ½” longer than the bottom layer of the quilt bats, on each end. You now have a graduating slope of padding sitting on a gel pad. It slopes from lower to higher from back to front. Put it in a liner made of leather or whatever you have or like. Now here’s the part you have to get: Place the liner with the padding about 1/3 to 1/2 the distance forward on your seat. That’s right. You have some bare stock seat showing. (gasp!) The part of the seat that is showing, slopes down and towards the front. Your home made seat cushion slopes backwards. When the stock seat slope and the home made seat are combined, you have a pocket for your posterior; the one slopes forward while the other slopes backward. Put in a prostate channel if you'd like. AND, you no longer have to hold yourself backwards in the seat with your legs since the seat isn't trying to slide you forward. Sit in it and pack it down. Wiggle around a bit. Get used to it. The batting stands very high, but packs down with weight. Once you’ve gotten the hang of getting settled in the right spot, it cups your butt, dispersing your weight more evenly over your butt and thighs between the stock seat and your newly made seat pad. From the attached pictures, you can see that I used an old Airhawk air pad liner with the air bladder removed. It’s fastened down to the seat with poster board putty. (I might replace it with a home made leather liner to get rid of that zipper). It stays put very nicely and can be adjusted very easily. Slide it to the front or the rear. Whatever works for you. I can ride for about 5 hours before pain begins to dominate my thoughts. Happy riding.
  27. 3 points
    An ECU flash is by no means required. But many appreciate the changes brought to the bike with it regardless of the minimal performance gains. I've not heard of a single problem created by a quality ECU flash. I've been nothing but pleased with my 2WDW flash. Removing the ECU is a 10 minute job that requires no more than removing the seat and a side cover. Unless you're in love with the engine braking, which you can have 2WDW leave intact if you so desire, I'm not aware of anything a proper flash does that you'd not be happy with. Good Luck in whichever direction you go.
  28. 3 points
    Ok lurker, here it comes. Judging from the length of your post; A. You've obviously done your research so you know what you like, what you want and what the deals are in your area. 2. You're overthinking this whole thing, gawking at the flock. It's time to make a decision. Pick a solid deal (and not cause it's got nice rim stickers), get it and never look back or second guess yourself. You'll have a ball. Just start eliminating them based on your list. If you tell yourself 'this is a nice one but' stop right there and cross that one from the list. Get the one you want and stop vacillating. Come on in, we're all enjoying our FZ/MT's without you!
  29. 3 points
    Not to be non-PC God forbid but my (personal) security on the road comes in the form of .45 caliber. I have a U Lock and one of those sonic piercing, screeching, disc locks. I have insurance, if they want it that bad, let them have it. Not worth all the fuss.
  30. 3 points
    Might as well buy the MT-10 SP version... Same if not near identical electronics(6 axis witch craft stuff) as the R1 and has electronic suspension... Spend for a tune and exhaust you got a weapon...
  31. 3 points
    I'll bite. I come in from the other side however. Just like any other hobby a person can go as crazy or remain as frugal as they desire. Some folks drop big bucks on a custom rifle for hunting or competition; others pick an of the shelf Savage and are perfectly happy. Custom fishing rods or off the rack sporting goods store bought? Huffy from Walmart or top o the line Trek? $2 paper kite or $5,000 drone? All these things perform similarly on a certain level to a point. Wanna push to the limit, we'll now you're gonna run into issues. I think the options we enjoy now are wonderful. Full on R1M @ $26g for the afficianado of wretched excess with the coin , OR, a standard R1 for $17g for the discerning buyer on a budget, or a used 2010 R1 for a couple G's? Pick your poison. On top of that if you wanna play with 5 axis ride by wire you'll never touch that on your own in your shop for what you can buy from any OEM. Look at it this way. A chevy chevette and a chevy corvette both save you from walking. With the help of technology one speaks to your soul, due to its absence the other your wallet. Buy an FZ07 or R1M your pick. Adendum: As for price/performance/technology; the $27,000 Yamaha is an absolute bargain compared to a similarly equiped top of the line Corvette at $129,000. The vette will depreciate more than the full cost of the bike in less than a year, costs more to insure and ten times as much to maintain. Both walleye your vision, slam your ass shut and make your panties wet but one leaves enough left over to buy a house too . Win. Win.
  32. 3 points
    Hey guys new to the forum! Been reading it for the past little while but haven't actually signed up until now! Have a few mods i want to make for the FZ/MT07 lineup so figured this would be a good place to start sharing them down the road! If you have IG check me out also! @avg_fz07 Thanks!
  33. 3 points
    It depends on who you ask, really. If you ask a squid, it's a beginner bike (For the beginners who were far inferior to them, of course). If you ask a motorcycle enthusiast, it's a fun, nimble sport bike. If you ask a racer, it's a torquey little beast that beats up on SV650s. If you ask me, it's the perfect adventure bike. If you ask someone who knows zero about motorcycles, it's "one of those crotch rockets, like the one my cousin's girlfriend's dad's best friend crashed on and will never ride again. BE CAREFUL OUT THERE"
  34. 3 points
    It'd be a hoot. I tracked my old RD's. I race against them once in a while depending on what class I'm playing in. They can go to beat hell if the owner/rider let's them due to their age. They can make an easy 60-70hp tuned, weigh 250#, 6 speeds, and that sound, yeehaw! Metzler has modern rubber for vintage stiuff now too, Metzeler Brings Out 18" Tires for Classic Racers - Asphalt & Rubber Vintage racers know all to well the difficulty there can be when it comes to finding appropriate tires for the race track, as the odd rim sizes of classic motorcycles are often outside the sizing parameters of good modern sticky... Kinda miss the old girls.
  35. 3 points
    Find a track to ride on like that. Too aggressive for the street especially with all those blind corners. Also wear a jacket before you get hamburger arms.
  36. 3 points
    Well it took some experimentation with shim thickness but I seem to have a working set of full floating front brake discs. Now for track testing and some data collection. Should be interesting. They clearly allow more movement between the carrier and the disc than the stock ones do. They actually rattle/make noise when handled. Accepting applications for a test rider, submit beersume'.
  37. 3 points
    First of all it's apparent you know how to ride so the real question is why do you ride the way you do? I'm talking specifically about going too fast/passing in residential areas and going too fast in blind curves where a car could pull out of a driveway in front of you before you could stop in time. The in town wheelies are always questionable just because there are so many driveways and streets a person could pull out from in an instant without seeing you and there you are with your front tire and brake in the air ready for it. Excuse the sarcasm, it's my nature. Ride how you want but you're pressing your luck if you ask me. On a scale of 1-5 your caution is at about a 3 so to sum it up your caution could use some improvement for your and others safety. Stay frosty! (BTW, not bad wheelies ... for a beginner)
  38. 3 points
    You'll have better luck searching the forums for "brake pad" instead.
  39. 3 points
    Good info. I just wanted to add that using a 520 chain & sprockets is a nice way to lose weight and gain options usually at a cheaper price as you said, but if you go 520 don't go low end. Make sure the chain you choose is rated for the power output of your bike. The cheaper 520 chains aren't all rated for the power output of the MT/FZ-07. I chose a name brand 520 chain that is listed as appropriate for up to 1200cc engines.
  40. 3 points
    If you flip the mirrors outward they'll work a lot better. Though they might not look as "cool".
  41. 3 points
    Rode the Back of the Dragon with a buddy today. Probably only around 300 miles, but about 9hrs of seat time. I absolutely love my FZ. Corbin seat is worth every penny. Brosef's 60k mile '94 VFR750 looks showroom fresh and sounds amazing. My phone camera sucks, but it was a great day!
  42. 3 points
    The 2 Wheel Team is on vacation this week and the shop is technically "closed". Nels may be on the beach, but Nate will be at the track flashing ECU's and riding at a few events! While we are out of the shop and flexing the legal definition of "fireworks", all of our Mail-In ECU Flashing is on sale ALL WEEK LONG! Most of our custom ECU flashing is only $275 with free return shipping anywhere in the US Make sure you use the coupon code "july4" during checkout at www.2wheeldynoworks.com. Nate will still be available to answer emails, monitor social media and answer any questions you might have while he is trackside this week, so don't hesitate to reach out to us!
  43. 3 points
    Save your money, the factory already did the testing for you and they say 87. If they thought it didn't clean well enough they would've told us to use 91 with more detergents and I haven't heard one complaint about 87 octane or other damaging someone's engine. People are just over thinking it and being overly critical. Here's a clip from this article: "It won't make your car perform better, go faster, get better mileage, or run cleaner." Paying a Premium for High Octane Gasoline? Higher octane fuel is not necessarily better for your car.
  44. 3 points

    From the album: MY 07 :)

    Perfect early morning ride
  45. 3 points
    Did my 2nd Track Day on my modified FZ on Sunday. I absolutely love the transformation. My bike feels so sport like and stable. Made a new friend with another FZ-07 owner, we rode together all day and had a great time. He’s not on the forum, so I encouraged him to come joins us Ed
  46. 3 points
    So I'm reading all these posts about wobbles etc and high speed runs and wheelies etc.... Are y'all wearing full gear when attempting these risk enhancing maneuvers? I really don't want to read where any of you biffed it and took more damage than you had to.
  47. 3 points
    Well, pretty far down the rabbit hole it seems... Just confirmed...Dymag forged aluminum wheels, Gilles Tooling bits, and Galespeed Master Cylinder and Clutch Perch. Oh, how my wallet hates me right now! - Paul
  48. 3 points
    6000k miles maintenance and wash. Also installed passenger grab bars too. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32721763572.html?spm=2114.search0104.3.18.21442bedaSj5cM&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0%2Csearchweb201602_8_10065_10130_10068_10547_319_10546_317_10548_10545_10696_10084_453_454_10083_10618_10307_537_536_10059_10884_10887_321_322_10103%2Csearchweb201603_55%2CppcSwitch_0&algo_expid=cd3d4b49-0cfd-4fca-bf43-bed391f075b4-2&algo_pvid=cd3d4b49-0cfd-4fca-bf43-bed391f075b4&transAbTest=ae803_4
  49. 3 points
    They start out at 38mm, kind of, as they have a taper/step and an odd shape and smaller size on the motor side. He takes them to 39mm throughout. Here are the before and after pics; Inlet side before... After, Motor side before, And after,
  50. 3 points
    Nightmare hope pics ok .
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