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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/16/2022 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    After 14 seasons of being a "track-day" rider/coach, I've stepped up my game!!! At 53 years old, I'm doing my first club-race at my "most" local track- BIR!!! (Brainerd International Raceway), in Brainerd, MN.... I have many laps on that track, and can't wait to do my first sanctioned race, on August 12th!!!! I know the learning curve will be HIGH (to say the least ). I'm racing my "07" in naked trim... I'm NOT chasing championships, or points.... I'm only chasing my smile (and anyone that runs about my pace) ... I have nothing to prove to anyone. (other than myself)... It just feels "right"- I probably wouldn't be doing ANY of this without the guidance/support of @mossrider... Dave has been a mentor to me and encouraged me to pursue my race license - he even offered to lend me his totally "bad-a$$" FZ-07R to pursue my race license (which I declined at the time)... I can't wait to chase my smile!!!!
  2. 5 points
    Right on CSlider! You the naked bike man, and that makes it the best look'in on the start grid. Go like hell but don't ride outside of what you practice - you already won And you! Mossrider! ---- Well, you are a jack of all moto angles with advice tailored for who you give it too, just when they need it the most. You're words & person are missed around here ....
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    I'm not interested in buying your bag, but I wanted to leave a message for anyone who is. The Kriega US-20 Drybag is a GREAT piece of luggage. I own a US-20, and am very happy with it. I would highly recommend it to anyone especially at that price which is a great deal.
  5. 3 points
    Waiting on a battery - amazon shipper running slow, so I changed plugs early & washed the k&n. Cleaned up my chain (sort of with wd 40), the only cleaning I've done to a chain in a long time - years long time. I run quality chain dirty, adjusted, and wet and get lots of miles out of sealed drive chain. With all things from the olden tymes in mind, like growing up we just picked up whatever pump oil can was in the garage and gave the chain a dose, three times a year if it needed it or not, and these were not o-ring chains lithium lubed rivets & barrels. So that's how I'm going to run this vx3 chain, hit it once and a while with gear oil. Just enough to prevent rust, and leave the lube to DID. For curiosity and amusement. Then I thought about all the years we ran chains with clip (split style) master links, and death and destruction did not run rampant ( @klx678 has some good comments talking chain history on this site) (think @shinyribshad a chain go AWOL at freeway speed). So I just happen to have a VX3 split master link on this current chain, why not give the split master a safety wire, just so I can say I've checked it out. That's double redundant safety wires - one can fail but there's always a backup. It's @M. Hausknecht's fault - he told me to safety wire my slipp'in grip. Now I got this spool of wire and no where to show...
  6. 3 points
    In olden tymes, chains where running in rubber hoses. They are encapsulating the complete drive train, no dirt will come in. This is my MZ ES 175/2 from 71, I've installed a modern DID 425 without O-rings, top edge technology for this bike. Even with the original low quality chains the manual recommends only gear oil for the chain, every 2500 km /1553 miles. I also fill the hoses with A LOT of grease what really enhances the durability. MZ kept the rubber hoses until the late 80s. You can expect that the chain lasts many 10.000 km, but of course this depends on a lot of parameters. Also: fancy bar end turn indicators and bar end mirror. It's not new, it's 50 years old grandpa stuff
  7. 3 points
    Ride Safe, Play Safe, and don't forget to have fun!! Enjoy
  8. 3 points
    Good for you Cornerslider, take it to the next level. Good Luck and have a Great Time. Ed
  9. 3 points
    Way to go, start line nerves and 40 guys all wanting the same bit of tarmac on the first corner, adrenaline rush or what. Good luck for the 12th
  10. 3 points
    I ordered all my parts through partzilla. I added the factory pro shifter arm and spring while i was in there since i was starting to get 5th gear pop outs. Every works harmoniously and no more locking up the rear on trying to late break and down shift to 2nd. Is it as good as my RSVR slipper? No. Is it worth the $300. Absolutely.
  11. 3 points
    Little update, we're probably about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way through our season, and so far my current PB was set last weekend with a 9.44 at 144mph. Hoping to break into the 9.3's this season. I'm also on track to finish this first season on a brand new bike in the top 10 in our points, pretty pumped about that. Since I'm unsure of how to post a video clip, if it's even possible, here's a link to an IG post that has a gopro video from on the bike during that run. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgf4wuirvs5/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
  12. 3 points
    Sometimes you can leave the rotor's center bolt in place, but backed out a little, and push on that. Otherwise you need something for the puller bolt to push against other than the crankshaft threads.
  13. 3 points
    I used a decently large zip tie. You make it into a "lasso" around the cop (coil on plug). Slide it down to where you want to grip the COP, then tighten up the zip tie to close the lasso on the COP. The you can grab the end of the zip tie with pliers, and you can put a lot of pulling power on the COP, pulling up. I didn't need it, but I was going to make 2 lassos, and tighten 2 down around the COP to pull, using the zip ties on opposite sides, so you can get more force and it pulls the COP straight up. When you put them back on, spray a clean rag with spray silicone, and wipe the COP rubber boots with the rag. Just the boots where they make contact with the valve cover. Next time, they will come off easier, like "pull them off with your hands" easier.
  14. 3 points
    These fasteners are performing critical functions. I'd get stock replacements. The full length threads on the bolts are not good bearing surfaces and are going to tend to grind/cut the stuff that rotate on them. The nuts should have washers if you can't find suitable flanged nuts. The grooves on your flanged nuts are also going to do some grinding. Are you using a torque wrench?
  15. 2 points
    @cornerslider Good for you! You're not nearly too old to begin your racing adventures. I'll be very interested to read of your impressions and experience. I've found track days, and track day riding, to be different in many respects from racing, even at the club level, but that probably says more about me than any inherent differences in the two. With as much seat time as you have at BIR, I'm not sure the learning curve is as long or as steep as you imagine. Getting your license is easy; understand the flags and start procedures, and just don't crash out of your "mock race", and you'll have your license. The important stuff you already know, your bike and how to ride the track. Whether you approach riding in competition differently from riding in a track day is entirely up to you and mostly within your control. Whether you stretch yourself and exceed your track day pace, or battle other riders for position, is all up to you. So, either way, have fun!
  16. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum, Styo11
  17. 2 points
    Quick update, I tested the charging system by checking the battery before during and after the engine ran, the voltage stayed above 14 it fluctuated but stayed above 14 and did not reach 15 while it was running and before and after it returned to 12. Something .I’m gonna assume that’s a good thing. Secondly I didn’t remove the gas bc I had already spent and refilled the bike about 4 time prior of me posting on here. Third, I did remove the power commander and I think honestly that was my issue, I did not experience any flutter on todays ride. When it was idling during the warm up it kinda sounded like she was gonna die just a bit but barely, I think that’s maybe form the cold start and also not being cranked in the month I was gone for work. But other then that the bike today had no sputters didn’t die on me while riding, let’s see how the rest of the week goes bc in the past it would do that and it just became worse over time…did notice a huge difference without the pcm v lol, but I will look into getting the ecu flashed by the recommend company. So far so good hopefully that was it lol thank you again everyone!!!!
  18. 2 points
    i can absolutely confirm that replacing the rear shock makes a huge difference to how planted the bike feels in a turn. i tossed the ktech razor-r lite on mine, feels like im much more in control while jackassing about.
  19. 1 point
    Looped my new to me FZ 07 doing something stupid that I should not have been doing. Got some damage to the tail, rear set, and leaking coolant, front forks seem to be twisted as well. What parts are needed to repair this and is it worth it to repair out of pocket or use my insurance? I am new to this so any info would be great! The bike was dropped going slow like 10-20 miles an hour.
  20. 1 point
    I was just talking with the dealer owner where I do my parts and bought my bike. One thing you are missing out on would be to go to a local preferred dealer or shop once you know your cheap online price and ask if they can get you that helmet for similar money. Why a dealer/shop? If there is something wrong with the helmet or you find it isn't the proper fit you can usually return it without waiting for an RO number. You take it back to them and get the right thing. This is something that can be done mainly at smaller dealerships and shops, not the big ones. I just did that with dual sport tires and bought them for the price I wanted. I've done the same with some of my helmets. It can't hurt to ask, worst case they won't do it, best case you just spent your money in your area supporting local people. Not a bad thing to do when one can. I don't do all my purchases at the dealer, but I will when I can.
  21. 1 point
    I did a couple of track days with it starting to pop out so I caught it fairly early. The first track day I popped out maybe 4-5x through out the day using the quick shifter. The second time was like 1-2x per session using the clutch and banging hard in to 5th to ensure engagement . I was sweating bullets looking at the prices of having to get the transmission gears back cut. After I installed everything I think I got 1 pop out the whole day and that was probably from a lazy shift.
  22. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, SamWendy
  23. 1 point
    Yes, agreed but its fuel or spark, right? A dirty injector can fail to fully atomize the fuel, resulting in a delayed burn, that could be happening some in the pipe; that's my theory anyways. Sorta like an overly retarded spark resulting in mixture still burning when the exhaust valve opens.
  24. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, HeidiH
  25. 1 point
    I have for sale one of the cleanest 2016 FZ-07’s around. The bike is built as best as I could have built it. 5200 miles very low for the year. Not ragged or dropped. Full carbon Yoshirmura Exhaust. Hord Power Box intake and tune, a few months ago. The flash tune is dyno proven 80rwhp and 50TQ . KTech Razor Lite shock, installed a few months ago. 3 windshields, two Amazon and MRA currently on. Ermax belly pan, side panels, rear cowl,frame sliders, and front and rear sliders as well, engine covers custom gel seat reupholstered by me. Waaay better than the stock seat. NOT 1/4in cheap eBay gel, I used the 3/4-1in saddelmen gel. Front and rear tires are new, installed Oct 2021. R6 throttle tube conversion. CRG mirrors, race grips, battery is 2019 or 2020 I believe. clean Ohio title. Located in the Dayton, Ohio area. No leaks or issues! $6000. Pics are too large to upload but I can email you addition pics and or start up, walk around videos to your private email.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Baby is going to be SOOO SPOILED Daddy is going to be bent around the pinky Enjoy!
  28. 1 point
    Somebody looks a little concerned about those bars! Maybe too tall?
  29. 1 point
    Well, 2020/2021 was a crazy couple of years and I ended up moving, buying and renovating a house, and changing jobs. I just really didn't get the time to ride like I wanted and the bike didn't get many miles. My wife and I also got pregnant late in 2021, and as of writing this post, baby Savannah is 3 months old and I'm finally able to start getting some real time back on the bike. The pregnancy was a little rough towards the beginning and again at the end (preeclampsia is pretty scary), but we're getting into a routine and my wife actually decided she enjoys it when I get out of the house for a few hours - so I am happy to oblige on the bike! I'm also playing with the go pro a little more. I'm learning to color correct and I'm looking into the best way to mount the camera and potentially an audio recorder. Maybe some of my rides will make it to YouTube?
  30. 1 point
    From that look I am pretty sure the dog thinks he did all the work .
  31. 1 point
    The feel I get with an R6 master cylinder (cheapo Brembo), steel braided lines, and double carbon pads with my stock '19 07 brakes is very firm. I get little lever movement and two finger braking to near lockup. I have Brembo Stylema calipers, Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder, and braided lines on my Kramer HKR Evo2R. These nearly top of the line Brembo items are no firmer, although they accommodate many adjustments to "feel", but allow one finger braking to near lockup. I find both options to be acceptable although differing in price by several hundred dollars. Someone with a more refined sense of such things would probably find greater differences. For street and track day use, the combination on my 07 is more than adequate, even though the high end Brembo stuff is a little better at race pace. You pays your money, you make your choice.
  32. 1 point
    and it's got to have a Sgt Schultz spike on top, something to skewer brds that err on their flight path
  33. 1 point
    I'm mildly interested in playing around with this a bit but don't expect me to find anything better than what you already run, because "good enough is good enough"
  34. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, SamOne
  35. 1 point
    Thx, I'm on board with Dupont. Because supply chain sux, I'm stocking hard parts for stuff I do over 18 mos, and been grabbing an extra or two of consumables. I ran for 30+ days this season on a backup rear sprocket & chain while I waited on drivenracing.com set, custom 44 tooth rear took them 4+ mos to drop at the shop. I switched to superlite for the current set so I didn't have to run backups
  36. 1 point
    I'm likely no example for chain care, I run my chains adjusted, dirty, and wet. Wet with chain wax - only because it's the least messy on garage floor, and if you use the straw that comes on the can, it goes a good ways before empty. Last drive set ran 22K. I only wet the link plates, let overspray/run do the rest. Think I will give Triple Jim's DuPont a try Maybe it's more important how you lube, not what product? That might be a little more interesting. Bend the straw some, so you can get in and spray between the link plates. And spray between the links is all I go for, first the outside of chain, spin the wheel while you spray... ...then get in there to the inside and hit those link plates in the same way. Excess spins out from the sprocket and spreads on the rest of the chain as you get rolling. That's how this old tymes does it
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Hey guys! Its about time I started sharing some of the progress of my project super hooligan bike, along with a little bit of the back story. I originally bought the bike in May of 2018, solely based on the motor AND exhaust note (uncorked that is). Once I started riding it I was even more so impressed with the FZ's ride-ability. Within the first week I had already put in for a 2WDW ECU reflash, SC Project CR-T full system, K&N filter, and a host of other small mods that made the bike less boring to look at. It didn't take long after that to venture down the rabbit hole in search more available options for wheels, brakes, engine mods, and full-on custom project bike inspirations. Of all the different routes to go with molding an FZ into something much cooler than a factory bike, I couldn't get away from the whole street tracker/dirt tracker/super hooligan theme and the huge number of inspirations out there. I got a lot of inspirations for my project from the Honda CB1100 TR Marco Simoncelli tribute bike, the Bott Power Buell builds, and Rough Craft's Yamaha Yardbuilt bikes, to name a few. After about a year of riding the FZ, that's when I decided to initiate this project. The whole idea behind this bike is to have the satisfaction of transforming a great bike into something even better (I understand that's subjective). When its all said and done I don't expect there to be much, if any, OEM components on this bike. So far the plan consists of the following: Major engine, wheel, brake, and suspension upgrades (read: anything that can be done will probably be done), a few pretty heavy frame modifications, and custom fabrication work including but not limited to exhaust, fuel tank, seat, etc., (both in-house and from outside sources). Here is the bike before I started the project : and here it is in it's current form: This is just a quick rundown for my project. Over all I'd say a rough estimate on progress of completion would about 25-30%, so this will be an ongoing thread when time allows. Aside from just looking at photos of other bikes for hours on end for inspiration, everything I've fabricated for the bike has just been off the top of my head (no drawings or anything!) I've tracked the progress of the build with photos, so I'll get into more detail about the steps I've completed so far, and some deviations that have occurred along the way, and some of the other fabrication tidbits and mods I have planned for the bike in a near future post. Hopefully you guys enjoy following the progress as much as I enjoy taking on this challenging project! Cheers! Austin
  39. 1 point
    Great Pics, This is the exact bike I ordered back in March (asked questions and waited since Feb)... SOOOO waiting and going to be SOOO worth the wait.
  40. 1 point
    I've just ordered my Ixil Hyperlow.. we're goin places!
  41. 1 point
    Some of the local auto parts stores have tools they lend. I have borrowed a spring compressor before. They put an authorization on your credit card and then remove it when you return the tool. I am not sure if a rotor puller is something that might be available, but it is worth a phone call.
  42. 1 point
    I haven't needed to pull mine, but it looks like a generic puller like this would work. This isn't a recommendation, just the general idea of what I'd probably look for. Be sure what what you get is the right size for the job. This one says it's about 3" in diameter. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOKAY-Universal-Flywheel-Snowmobile-Kawasaki/dp/B0789HBP1M/ref=psdc_15690151_t1_B014VG20JM If you don't mind a little work, you could make one. I recently had to pull the harmonic balancer on my boat engine, and I used this, which I made a few decades ago, and modified for different applications:
  43. 1 point
    I don't think they're proprietary... just uncommon. I got a couple of those connectors from cycleterminal.com From member No Hater in the thread below, the part number is "Male MT090-2".
  44. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, MikeD07
  45. 1 point
    240 ml usage over 1200 miles doesn't sound excessive to me. Thats like a quart in 5000 miles .Just my opinion.
  46. 1 point
    Added some active accent lights that take input from my turn signals and brake lights! Go watch the video on reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/MT07/comments/vhywf4/dabbled_with_underglowaccent_lights_like_the_busa/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
  47. 1 point
    DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.
  48. 1 point
    Aluminum billet brackets for holding the rear brake reservoir when removing the passenger pegs. With holes, $30. SOLD! without holes, SOLD!
  49. 1 point
    I bought these over a year ago from Amazon. 2 out of the 10 did not work from the start but the two that did worked has been running for a year and no issues. Yorkim 194 LED Bulbs White 6000k Super Bright 5th Generation, T10 LED Bulbs, 168 LED Bulb for Car Interior Dome Map Door Courtesy License Plate Lights W5W 2825, Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/Yorkim-Generation-Interior-Courtesy-10/dp/B00JRE38EA/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Yorkim+194+LED+Bulbs+White+6000k+Super+Bright+5th+Generation%2C+T10+LED+Bulbs%2C+168+LED+Bulb+for+Car+Interior+Dome+Map+Door+Courtesy+License+Plate+Lights+W5W+2825%2C+Pack+of+10&qid=1622857919&s=automotive&sr=1-3
  50. 1 point
    After getting a PM from @FZ07R WaNaB... I figured I would do a lil update... Last few months I have not even attempted to stay current with the forums and whatnot... As for the bike... had 2 small little problems... 1st was an occasional spittle of oil in the exhaust which was solved by a restrictor I had laying around from various turbo car projects... 2nd problem was I had to re-run the oil return line on the clutch side of bike vs the brake side to help keep the drain slope downward... I also run a blend of mixed gas... 1gal of 110 race gas and 4gal of premium pump gas...that gives me like 95/96 oct rating... No videos will be posted or recorded... Will provide pictures when requested... As for how it rides... the bike in general feels much more planted due to extensions on swingarm and aftermarket suspension( suspension is still same settings from 4yrs ago, only backed off the rear shock 1 click)... the power is really really good(could use a +1T front sprocket to put a bit more load on motor to take advantage) cruising down the Highway at 70mph in 6th is like barely "half pound" of boost, but give the throttle a handful, the boost snaps to 3 or more # and away you go... it dont miss a beat anywhere in the power band... in general the turbo bike is faster than my FJ-09 but not top speed wise... Is it worth the upgrade? Heck yea!!! Is it practical for everyone? No... This is probably my last post for awhile...
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