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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/16/2021 in all areas

  1. 11 points
  2. 6 points
    Amazon has tons of automotive 12V USB power ports – with and without lights, with and without built-in volt meter displays. I added a simple USB power port to my 2015 FZ-07 by connecting it to the stock under-tank aux D/C connector. I drilled a hole in the front tank cover which, on the right side, covers a surprisingly large empty void between the ECU and the frame (this space is pretty full on the left side) . All I needed was two male pins and two wire seals for the Sumitomo .090 (MT090-2) connector from CycleTerminal.com. Some forum posts refer to the “MT090-2b” connector but that is incorrect. The right connector is “MT090-2” which has two alignment grooves in the connector body.
  3. 6 points
    Use one of these cheap Chinese super turbo sport power air pump wedge things and you can comfortably move the wheel up/down until you see all things are in perfect alignment, without the need to hold the wheel up with tiny arms, shoes or other inappropriate things
  4. 4 points
    From the manufacturer: For the record and since we get this question asked a lot, the D3O back protector orientation is always with the deeply-ridged side against your back (i.e. facing your back). This applies to all D3O back-armor pads and not just to the Viper Pro.
  5. 4 points
    The dealer says October. I have 86 acres of farm land with 15 acres of woods so this is long overdue.
  6. 4 points
    Oem fender will slightly keep you cleaner than a tail tidy, but the tires will always fling stuff on the engine and such. Unless you've got a cruiser with big skirted fenders it's just part of the game. There's a large area on the front of my motor that has zero paint left on it, just bare aluminum, due to being sandblasted by the front tire. Sucks watching your new ride get dirty. But it's all good...you can't see it from the saddle
  7. 4 points
    It's kind of odd to see a lot of comments saying that the suspension on the MT is trash and needs to be replaced immediately to even be a functional bike. The factory suspension is fine for the majority of people and if your goal is to learn, then the MT would be perfectly fine. If you've never done a track day and never pushed a bike to it's limits, then you shouldn't get hung up on bike upgrades, rather rider upgrades. I would say go for the MT as it's better suited to the majority of day to day tasks it sounds like you want to do (but it also sounds like you're hung up on getting a supersport because of the image of a fully faired bike) and there's room for improvement as you improve your own skills and recognize what the bike actually needs, rather than buying it and upgrading things because some people on the internet told you to haha. At the end of the day, it's your decision - get what YOU want and what YOU think would fit the majority of riding you plan to do. If it's just the occasional track day, then there's really no need for a full-on track weapon like the R6 if the majority of riding is going to be on the street. If you're uncomfortable on the bike, then it'll be difficult to improve your skills as a rider. I will say that the 2 bikes make power very differently. The MT makes power immediately and requires good throttle control, while the R6 doesn't really do much down low but explodes towards the top of the rev range. It's that reason I think a lot of people get into trouble on inline 4 supersports as beginners - the lack of power low down in the rev range gives people a false sense of security and they underestimate how much power the bike has and how quickly it can come on. Give it a handful of throttle coming out because you think everything is under control, get into the powerband and suddenly lose control. The MT is different, it makes power immediately so it almost forces you to modulate the throttle or risk losing control; it's very upfront about that and why I think it would be better to learn on so long as you respect the power. I would vote for the MT - buy it, ride it, learn what the bike's and your own limitations are and upgrade accordingly. It's ultimately your call though, so it comes down to whatever you feel more comfortable and happy to own and ride, after all, it's your bike. Regardless of what you get, the motorcycle community will accept you haha.
  8. 3 points
    Well Fella’s, This Performance Modification is the best one yet I’ve done to this bike! I’ve first had a K&N with airbox still in, Then went to the DNA Filter and Stage 2 Lid! And let me tell you guys these MWR POD Race air filter, and High performance velocity stacks by Carbon-Smith literally makes this bike into a whole new beast! I highly recommend this modification of course only with the best of the best 2WDW custom map, and FTECU Quickshifter&ActiceTune! And all that good shet! Here’s are a few pictures below!
  9. 3 points
  10. 2 points
    it is completely normal, on the lever there is a switch that has two functions: 1) avoid starting the bike with the stand in the lowered position 2) when the lever is not pulled, it increases the minimum rpm to decrease the on-off effect ... sorry for my english
  11. 2 points
    I love it so far. But I don't have anything to compare it to since it's my first dirtbike. Suspension feels awesome, I can lug it around at real slow speeds, yet it has crazy power.
  12. 2 points
    with the bulbs I bought, listed above, I did not lose running light function. The picture shown above is the front running lights.
  13. 2 points
    mouthpieceguy.com use to be able to catch him at some boxing events. Best in the business. You do the full impression clay or whatever it is and send it back. If you lose your mouthpiece or its gets damaged somehow youll have the final hard impression for a redo. It will last probably forever as long as your teeth dont change. Still use mine from 9 years ago. Before i got his i tried a handful of others OTC boil types. Nothing compares.
  14. 2 points
    Exactly. Looks like someone took a screwdriver to the dust cap. The real seal that does the work is below the dust cap. I have used this tool and gotten a couple extra years out of seals before. If you spin the tool around and it pulls out grit and debris, it can stop a leak just by doing that. It worked on a quarter century old Honda 750, then eventually I had to change out the seals. Replacing seals is a major pain in the ass. The amount of disassembly just to access the parts to replace is very time consuming. Next time I will also buy the proper seal driver, the econo methods of PVC pipe etc are very hit and miss.
  15. 2 points
    Oh, and you can get the front tire up to do fork seals without needing to buy stands. A ratchet strap around the handlebar will lift the bike easily. Just need a beefy tree limb or a decent rafter overhead. You're only lifting half of a 400lb bike, so it doesn't take much. If you can swing/hang on the strap and it don't break then it's good to go. Anything to get a strap around. Gym equipment. Overhead patio. Ladders work, too! I'm sure you can find something.
  16. 2 points
    I have quite a bit of experience with Racetech Emulators as well. By the time you add proper springs, adapters (required on the 07), and oil, your around the $350-$375 range.... The little bit more you pay for the AR-25 kit, is worth it (to me), as it is a much more refined version of Racetech. Better quality, and better performance -
  17. 2 points
    The Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit includes an improved damper rod design and springs, as well as the valve similar to an emulator. Not a bad price for what you get. Cogent also make their DDC emulator which is comparable to Racetech's Gold Valves: Cogent Dynamics DR650 Drop-In Cartridges (DDC) | Adventure Bike Australia
  18. 2 points
    I would go to Givi's site and look up the luggage. If there's different part numbers listed for the luggage that should answer your question. Personally, I can't help, though. Good luck and congrats on the new bike!
  19. 2 points
    It took quite a few years, but I've learned that the best way to solve the problem of ugly parts is to learn to love them.
  20. 2 points
    Over twenty-five years ago I used exhaust wrap on my race bike's headpipes. It made the motor run leaner and, therefore, I went to larger main jets and richer needles (yeah, carburetors) to get the jetting right. The wrap also resulted in the steel head pipes developing pin hole leaks as the extra heat stressed the steel and caused them to eventually fracture after two years of racing. I never determined whether the motor developed any additional power with the wrap. I wouldn't use it on a street bike because of the damage it does to the pipes, and I don't use it on my 07 race bike. It could be that covering only a two-three inches of headpipe wouldn't cause problems (I did that on a Ducati rear cylinder's titanium headpipe to try and keep heat out of the shock for a few years with no problems).
  21. 2 points
    I don't have a 2021 model an no good documents yet, but I think you should also take a look at the 3 A "Terminal fuse 1". I think I remember that the old 2A AUX fuse of older models was changed to a 3A "Terminal fuse 1". 3 Ampere may not be enough current for heating grips and USB charging (maybe even QC?) at the same time.
  22. 2 points
    I was surprised at the difference in the front end after just fitting an aftermarket shock. The improved rear damping settles the front down a bit.
  23. 2 points
    Here's a Penske 8900E single adjustable shock I removed from my 2017. Spring rate is 675. I weigh 175 lbs. About 10.000 miles on shock. Located in Hanover Pa. $375 shipped (lower 48), PayPal preferred.
  24. 2 points
    There are some other options I know of, but not many. Some people went with Luimoto for their gel inserts (some other companies make universal gel inserts, too, I think). Pricey for what they are, but still cheaper than a Corbin. I went this route - gel seat insert paired with their seat covers - and I'm happy. It was a bit of work, but it's definitely more comfortable than the stock foam padding. I think a few people on here went the Bagster route, as well. They're probably the only other alternative seat manufacturer (only other one I've seen, anyway). I've seen some reviews of their products on other forums and was nervous as some said they had some serious damage done to their seats after getting caught in the rain; not sure if that's changed now, though.
  25. 2 points
    The Bike Have -M4 Full System -Power Commander V -Quickshifter Dyno Jet -520 Conversion -Airbox Removed -Extension in Swingarm (6”) -Front Lower and Strap -Sprokets at the moment that is all i Have and Tune
  26. 1 point
    In DEC 2020 switched out to all new materials. Have a fresh stock axle, fresh stock fuji nut, axle drilled for R cotter pin to give me that warm fuzzy feeling, anti-seize and axle nut torque spec of 52 FT-LBS: In the off season 2021.02, I pulled the R cotter pin and added the axle slider (below): So the current setup that I have run all of 2021 with is the switch to a fresh stock axle and fresh stock fuji nut (just to start with all new parts), axle drilled for R cotter pin (but I no longer use the R cotter pin), anti-seize and torque spec of 52 FT-LBS, and the axle slider for the warm fuzzy feelz of nut retention. Every time I loosen Fuji axle nut for any reason, I completely remove it, wipe axle threads and nut clean of anti-seize, inspect it's threads, and lube it up again with anti-seize and re-assemble to the reduced torque of 52 FT-LBS. Never experienced any backing off of the axle nut or any sense of the axle bearings lacking compression at the reduced torque. Anti-seize and reduced torque is probably what's needed, but you should never do what I did, always follow the Yami specs because my changes cause foot fungus
  27. 1 point
    I wanted to do it the same way, but in the end I wasn't psychologically able to drill a hole in the cover of my "new" bike Now the power port is hidden inside, think I will choose your solution the next time if I have to touch the USB charging stuff ever again
  28. 1 point
    Hi, thank you for taking the time to reply. Yes, that was the first suspect, it took me a while to get it’s the abs/non abs version since only abs versions are sold locally and I had no idea there is a difference. Rookie mistake.
  29. 1 point
    Yes same as mine, i agree the zero static is not end of world and i guess it depends how heavy you are and type of roads you ride as to if its a problem, im fairly light and ride bad roads on occasion without choice so i do get the top out/seat kick on bad sections, its not terrible ive had much much worse but would like to improve it if i can, Nitron or similar will probably be coming for next season :D
  30. 1 point
    It's a 2020, so probably the same as a 2018. There is absolutely zero sag without a rider on it. In fact if I sit on it and then raise myself off the seat slowly, I can feel the "clunk" when it tops out.
  31. 1 point
    Ha, well my MT-07's rear suspension is set at the preload setting that it came with from the dealer. Without my weight on it, the rear suspension is topped out firmly.
  32. 1 point
    Stock hugger is worthless. Doesn't even shield the linkage.
  33. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, SazinOz
  34. 1 point
    I would contact the seller.... There is no way a 100 mile ride home could do THAT much damage to BOTH fork seals. The seller must have known about it, and cleaned all the oil so you could look at it .... With a leak that severe, I would also check the front brake pads for fork oil contamination. If there's oil on them, they should be changed out as well. I don't think you paid too much for the bike, 12K is nothing on an FZ-07 . You mentioned you are changing out the spark plugs as well. NGK makes an "iridium" plug for the FZ-07. It's an extra $3 per plug, but they last 3X as long. As easy as it "looks" to change them, it's major P.I.T.A. I'm glad I won't have to do them again anytime soon-
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    I think the stock seat goes flat after 50 miles and with this seat I typically ride 150 to200 miles on a ride. The rear rack fits well and has foam underneath to help seal.
  37. 1 point
    It’s fixed! I replaced the map sensor and it rides like a dream now! Only thing is mine only had the check engine light once when it first happened. Then after that no check engine light or error codes.
  38. 1 point
    Long story short, biohazardcycles was awesome to deal with, but Corbin was a nightmare. Corbin convinced me to do a stitched seat when I didn't want one. My own fault for caving. They told me if I didn't take the stitches that they wouldn't give a warranty. Sort of a bully move imo. The seat arrived damaged ( material was stretched extraordinarily tight over a sharp edge) so it got returned for repair. The portion that needed repair was made of the wrong material per my order, and the stitched panel was also damaged. Plus I really hated the stitches even more at this point, since I felt I allowed myself to be bullied in to them. They had to replace that piece anyway, so I asked Corbin to honor my original order and to leave off the stitches. They refused, unless I paid extra for " custom alterations". Even though I agreed to forego any warranty ( risky move since it showed up torn), per the original agreement, they still refused to do it unless I paid extra for it. In short, my Corbin seat is very comfy, but the stiches look very dated ( let's be real, it's cruiser styling on a hypernaked... period) and give me a wet ass just like we all suspect they would. Would I do it again? No, because I'll never give Corbin another penny. Their customer service is beyond poor, it's actually rude and bullying. My NEW seat, damaged during assembly, that got sent back for repairs was kicked to the back of the waiting line. Behind others that had sent their seats back independently for recovering due to age, use, etc. Tom at biohazardcycles was embarrassed by how Corbin acted throughout the whole ordeal and wished to refund me out of his own pocket. I refused to put him in that position, but it shows how much he does value his customers. If he decided to drop Corbin, I don't blame him. But biohazardcycles is stand up for sure.
  39. 1 point
    I'm sure there's a specific torque value if you search hard enough, but I just make sure it's tight and give it maybe an extra quarter turn. I haven't had any issues with it coming loose. You can get a feel for how tight it was from the factory as you crack it loose - it wasn't super tight to begin with.
  40. 1 point
    dude, you arent kidding. im absolute horse shet when it comes to doing mechanical stuff or even talking about / describing mechanical stuff, so i was very surprised with how patient and friendly they were with me asking (dumb) questions and probably giving too much or not enough info. great experience, totally worth the $150 to not have to worry about it.
  41. 1 point
    Hey Dew, I have the RF1400 with the Sena Spider ST1 unit. Not sure which clamp that uses. Let me know if you want any more detail or pics. Got it installed at CycleGear when I bought it
  42. 1 point
    I'd take out the bolt that attaches the lever to the transmission shaft and pull the whole assembly out of the way. Mark the transmission shaft at the split in the lever to you can get it back on in the same position without fiddling. edit: I see a faint line in the end of the shaft that lines up with the split, so it appears to be pre-marked for you.
  43. 1 point
    One down in front will get you around 300 more rpm at the same speed in the same gear. So if you go 15/46 you will get 600-700 more rpm at the same gear and speed. This will affect your highway cruising.... Also, lower gear aren't always better for wheelies. You will run out of gear more quickly. I would say not to change the gearing to much, maybe down one in front or up one in the back like others are mentioning. And practice more wheelies instead. Place yourself further back in the seat - go in 2nd and constant 30-40 km/h - close the throttle and then quickly twist it open and at the same time pull the handlebars. This will get you up there with stock gearing and no clutch abuse.
  44. 1 point
    Ride the standard bike for while first before upgrading. The Razor-R Lite (cheaper one) is perfect for road use.
  45. 1 point
    The mt07 is a great bike to learn on and it will have enough power for the rest of your riding life. For a Supersport, I would look at the new R7. A much better powerband than the 4 cylinder 600cc R6. The R7 will be easier to ride fast on the track.
  46. 1 point
    I need to do some homework because I'm interested, but not entirely sure what I'm looking at. That's no fault of your ad, this is just new ground for me.
  47. 1 point
    Hello. Best run so far is only 7.75 seconds at 92 mph in the 1/8 mile. I either wheelie at the launch or the engine bogs, my 60 foots are terrible at around 2.0 seconds. I finally got around to strapping the front down, so we will see what happens. Because I always need an engineering winter exercise, I might build a wheelie bar chassis for a spare FZ07 motor I have, running methanol, a turbo charger, and a stand alone Fueltech FT450 ecu.
  48. 1 point
    It's even worse. I have a small fault database where I record such kind of trouble cases. There is an entry that describes exactly the behavior you reported, I wrote it down some weeks ago but couldn't remember. There were already two cases of wrong polarity in the German MT-07 Forum, you are not alone
  49. 1 point
    Is there somewhere I can read about what you've done to the motorcycle to make it faster?
  50. 1 point
    So I finally got the Extreme Creations (EC) lowering link installed on my 2016 FZ-07. It wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. You did not have to remove the rear wheel or the swingarm. You also did not have to suspend the bike. You did have to have a jack underneath the motor/exhaust. Both footpeg assemblies, the shift linkage and the rear brake assemblies have to be removed as well as the side frame covers. This allows access to the connecting rod 18 (in Yamaha parts sheet below) which is going to be replaced with the EC link (see attached pic with the EC beside the OEM rod). They provided detailed instructions with color pictures on how to do the replacement. I went with the bearings and seals being installed by EC which bypassed a good part of their instructions. One glitch is the instructions say to have the side of the link that has writing facing outwards. The problem is that both sides have the same writing, but fortunately one of the pics showed the right way to install it. Everything was going well until we tried to attach the EC link to the relay arm 10 (Yamaha words, not mine). It turned out that the OEM collar 16 was too wide to fit into the gap on the EC link. It was impossible to spread the arms of the link due to the thickness and strength of the arms. My mechanic and I agreed that the only thing to do was to mill/grind off about 2mm off the collar which ended up working perfectly. Obviously that collar worked find with the OEM link/rod, so I don't know what was up with EC on this one. Turned out not to be a deal breaker though. You need the jack to get the holes aligned which proved to be no problem. The only thing left to do was to reinstall all the parts. The reason I got this link is obviously the bike is too tall for my comfort level. When I bought the bike, it was barely OK for my 29" inseam. Since then I added a Bitubo XZE 11 shock and Michelin PR4's, both of which increased the seat height. FYI, the Bitubo was at its lowest setting and it still added to the seat height. I ended up going from being on the balls of my feet to being at the end of tiptoes. It was OK at stop lights on flat ground, but anywhere else it wasn't a lot of fun. That as a background, the EC link gives you the option of 4 setting: stock, -25, -35, and +25. I decided to go for it and went with the -35. I also raised the forks 20mm to help compensate for the drop at the rear end. So, what did it do for me... I gotta say, quite a bit although some wasn't expected. I am now nearly flatfoot which is a very good thing. After riding 300 miles with this configuration, I'm definitely feeling a lot better about not having an accidental bike drop. I decided at the time to not shorten the kickstand. That was a mistake which is going to be corrected. The bike was OK as far as having enough lean as is, but it needed more for the ease of swinging a leg over it. In stock configuration, the amount of lean was greater making it easier for those who are short of leg to get on the bike. Another result of lowering the seat height is reducing the ground clearance, which is pretty obvious in this case. I'm not sure, but I think I may have scraped once. The problem is that the bottom of the motor is about the same as the bottom of the exhaust. So, I'm either going to need to be very careful and/or get a skid plate which I believe they make for the FZ-07. There was another unexpected surprise which was the chain became very tight as a result of the link, as in very tight. I made it about 10 miles before I realized it, and readjusted the chain. Neither my mechanic nor I thought of that one. Lastly, the perk that I like almost as much as the seat being lowered is that the handling has seriously changed for the better. When you play around with the suspension, it's going to ride differently. This bike now turns in so easily that I came close to making a mistake several times during the first 20-30 miles. It didn't take long to get use to the quicker handling. After riding 260 miles today of which half was pretty curvy roads, I gotta say this bike is more fun than it has ever been handling-wise. Is it worth it... heck yeah if you are vertically challenged! The EC link is extremely well made, and not that expensive. Remember that the price on their website is in Aussie dollars, and they are essentially charging no labor to install the bearings and seals. To my place in the US, it was approximately $165 USD.
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