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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/27/2020 in all areas

  1. 12 points
    My aim was to find an affordable set of forks to slot in to our trees in the hopes for a quick, inexpensive fork upgrade that anyone could do with basic tools at home. Well, I think it worked out, but it's not quite as "bolt-on" as I hoped. It's still relatively simple to pull off at home. Here goes... The forks to use will be Honda 1995-98 Honda CBR600F3 forks. Has to be F3 forks. There were a few F2 forks in '94 that had cartridge internals, but I'm not positive they are the same as these. The internals will give you dual cartridges in each leg ( rebound and compression ), externally adjustable rebound clicker and externally adjustable preload. There is no external adjustment for compression. My first goal was to just use the F3 forks in our trees. F3 forks are also 41mm like ours. That would retain all factory geometry while also upgrading to larger, floating rotors. But it didn't work out. Fork spacing of our trees is too close together, so the stock F3 wheel would not fit back between them. The stock F3 wheel uses the same size tire and it's twisted 6 spoke pattern would be very close to a visual match. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 5 views. Moving on...let's see if we can just use our fork lowers on the F3 tubes and cartridges. The answer is, yes! Stock internals above, F3 bits below. A few thing to note here. 1- Springs are the same length(the picture is deceptive). Spacers are different lengths, but that's not important. We'll get back to this later. 2- F3 springs are progressively wound. 3- What anchors the forks together uses different size bolts. More on this directly below. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Here is the final fastener that actually holds the forks together. Above is the damper rod from the stock forks, below is the compression cartridge from the F3 forks. The stock bolt is a 10mm , the F3 bolt is 8mm. If you've ever changed forks seals/bushings...these are those bolts in the bottom of the fork lower that want to fight you. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Here's what it takes to do the swap. When you first disassemble the F3 forks this is what you will see at the bottom of the cartridge assembly. That threaded hole is where is the forks lower attaches. You need to remove that compression cartridge from the cartridge assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Just with your finger, push the cartridge in to the tube to reveal this circlip. Pop out that circlip. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Thread the bolt back in as a handle and pop it out. Easy peasy. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. This is what needs to be modified. That aluminum piece is just a seat for the cartridge assembly. It sandwiches between the fork lower and the compression cartridge. Since the F3 bolt was 8mm it also needs to be opened up to accept the 10mm bolt needed for the stock fork lowers. The bottom of the cartridge needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the stock bolt as well. This is the only things that need to be modified. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Before you do any work to the compression cartridge you need to fully disassemble it. You can not have ANY tiny amount of grit or debris in these components. We're talking surgical clean here. Try your best to not mar the outside of the valve. Use hardwood, sheets of copper, aluminum soft jaws on your vice....whatever it takes...but please avoid pipe wrenches, vise grips,etc. All you need to remove is the socket head ( allen head) screw that holds the valve assembly to the valve body. That bolt is threadlocked in place, so get a good grip on things, but you do not need to use an impact or anything crazy. Now you can drill & tap without damaging the valve assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. You do NOT need a lathe to do this! I never turned the machine on, I just used the lathe to help me align the parts for tapping. I tapped the valve by hand. But note the slip of copper protecting the valve body from the jaws of the chuck. Something like that is all you need. The new thread needs to be tapped to M10-1.0. 10mm diameter with a 1.0 thread pitch. Your tap should tell you what size drill bit to use. If not, a 8.5mm drill bit is the industry standard to use for a M10-1.0 hole. 8.5mm lands right between 5/16" and 11/32". I used a sharp 11/32" drill bit with perfect results. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Important! Do NOT drill all the way through the valve body. Only drill and tap as far as needed. You can see it clearly with all the parts in your hands, but remember that the other side of the valve body uses a smaller fastener to retain the valve assembly. You can see a small step at the base of the new M10-1.0 thread. That is where the smaller thread begins. New M10-1.0 thread. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Smaller thread on other side of the valve. 5mm? 6mm? I can't remember... Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. At this point, you are done modifying, all that's left to do is reassemble the forks as if they were bone stock F3 forks. You use the forks tubes, caps, internals and lower bushings from the F3 forks. The ONLY FZ07 parts you will use is the fork lowers, 10mm retaining bolts and upper fork bushing. The lower fork bushings from the F3 forks are interchangeable with your stock bushings, but they are actually properly sized! They are not the "too small" bushings Yamaha gave us. So, reuse the F3 lower bushings unless you already have properly fitting bushings that are in good, or better, shape than what is in your F3 donor forks. The upper F3 bushings are larger than our stock bushing, so be sure to reuse the stock upper bushing or you will bind the forks. Stock on the left, F3 on the right. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Finally assembly notes: Honda and the internet will gine you lots of differing suggestions on what fork oil and oil level to use. The thing to remember is that our bikes are a good 40lbs lighter than the F3 donor bike these forks came from. I originally went with 10w oil at 116mm oil level. It was harsh. I am currently using Maxima 52 oil at 120mm oil level and am happy with how the forks feel. Also, I am 220lbs in my birthday suit. I do not know what the stock spring rate is for F3 forks, but they springs work for me. However, remember earlier when I mentioned the springs were the same length? If you are happy with your current spring rates, just reuse your stock springs. The diameters are the same, so you're good to go. This post is strictly to show what small modification need to be done to install our stock fork lowers on to F3 fork tubes, and what oil weight and level works good for our bikes.. I am purposefully not going in to detail on how to disassemble and reassemble these two different types of forks. There's tons of info on that already. Just disassemble both, drill/tap the valve body and reassemble. Ride impressions: There is no doubt you are riding on late 90's sport bike fork technology at this point. Low speed compression bumps are a tad harsh. Not bone-jarring, just a tad harsh. But everything else is fantastic. Compression and rebound characteristics are VERY good. My stock forks would often jar me at speed. EG, hitting bridge expansion joints at highway speeds. That no longer happens. If you riding on a rough road at city speed (25-35 mph) the forks will feel a tad harsh....kinda like riding a sport bike! But at speed?....oh, at speed...that harder you push the plusher they feel. Throw the bike back and forth between corners and she's solid. No wallow. No wiggle. Just a nicely dampened front suspension. Travel: If you look up the specs on wheel travel on our bikes VS the F3 forks you will think this will give up fork travel. It won't. Yamaha lied. The ONLY way you can get the full 5.1" inches of travel out of the stock forks is if you completely compress the topout springs. Never gonna happen. Wheel travel is the same. Now...here's the "bad" art of this deal. The fork tubes are 2.25" longer than stock. So, if you just want to do this to your bike and leave everything else stock you will be rocking some extra fork tube above the top yoke. Like me! Yeah, you might look like a total squid noob with a lowered bike at first glance, but who cares. However....this also give you some pretty nice options! Been wanting to raise your bike and inch or so? Gotcha covered. Want to run legit clipons without some bulky,expensive adapter that bolts to the floppy stock bar mounts? Gotcha covered there, too! A set of 41mm clipons ( very common size) could be slid in to place and made to work oh,so easily. So are the long tubes a blessing or a cosmetic con? depends on what you need out of your bike. And yes, I did check for travel with so much tube exposed. You will not crash the fork lowers in to the bottom yokes. The bottom edge of the blue masking tape represents the forks completely bottomed out. Plenty of clearance. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. So, stock fork lowers in order to retain your original wheel and brakes. But add fully cartridge internal, extra height is wanted and the ability to mount clipons. For 100 bucks. I paid $75 for my forks off Craigslist and wasted some oil figuring out what worked good. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  2. 10 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  3. 8 points
    Well the Road America round is officially a 'Go' the end of this month and I've assembled a team of the finest pittards in the business. We'll run this round as a 2 bike team so I can get it adjusted to it's new owner and get the suspension dialed in. Our plan is to run nose to tail right to the front of the grid. What could possibly go wrong, right? The bike is done, The best thing that could happen now is he beats us on it while beating on it. I think we're in deep trouble. What I do know is that we're gonna have a GREAT time finding out! Sorry in advance to all the other competitors that will have their dreams shattered and go home wabbing, lol. BLR Edit: added a strobe,
  4. 6 points
    After getting pretty good results with some fairly simple intake mods I’ve now got the bug and want more so just got another set of throttle bodies bored out. Picked them up for a mere £30 including a standard airbox and then a friend of a work colleague bored them for another £30 so not a lot of cash invested. Don’t expect to gain much until the cylinder head ports are opened up to match so that leads to another purchase, was looking for a cylinder head and cams but ended up buying another complete engine. Supposed to be a 9000 mile engine but will see what it’s like when I pull it apart Plan to port the head and get the cams ground as a minimum.
  5. 6 points
    Haven't been in here in awhile mainly because everything got put on hold pretty much due to life changes with the guy helping me with the adaptions. Anyway, progress is finally moving forward again. All designs are pretty much done (we think). Bike has been torn apart and I just recently got the frame and wheels back from powder coat. I went gloss black on the frame and wheels. Bodywork will be a reverse Yamaha speed block design with the main color being red, black speed blocks, white number areas and lower part of belly pan will be white too. So, hopefully I'll be back on the track this fall. I doubt I'll get out in the summer months because the heat can be too much for my system to handle at times. That's part of having a spinal cord injury, we don't sweat below our injury level making it hard to keep cool.
  6. 6 points
    It's here! CarbonSmith and MWR Air Filters have teamed up to create an incredible Racing Intake Solution (RIS) for your Yamaha FZ-07/MT-07. The CarbonSmith / MWR RIS was born out of competition. Not happy with the current offerings on the market, CarbonSmith set out to develop and produce high flow velocity stacks for the Yamaha MT07/FZ07 to replace the OEM rubber stacks. When paired with the 63 mm Angled POD filter by MWR, this combination will increase peak HP and TQ gains compared to OEM, especially above 8500 RPM. We saw a 4 hp gain over the competition without changing the existing tune (using the standard MWR Performance filter material). But we weren't going to stop there. After testing was completed and results brought to MWR, they decided even MORE gains can be had and made us the 63mm Angled POD filter in their RACE material! MWR's RACE material is the air filter material used in all their WSBK filters - proven in Jonathan Rea's Factory Kawasaki Superbike that won the World Superbike Championship the last 5 years in a row! The CarbonSmith / MWR Racing Intake Solution is meant for competition on closed courses, and you will notice increased power and torque in the upper rpm range. However, we know some of you will want to use this system on your street bikes, so we are offering it with a variety of options: Short Stack - designed for shorty GP exhaust systems (most systems for the FZ-07/MT-07 are this type) Long Stack - designed for longer piped exhaust systems Performance Filter Material - high flow material good for 8-12 months before cleaning and re-oiling RACE Filter Material - Ultra high flow material, meant to be cleaned and re-oiled after every race weekend Street users should choose the Performance Filter Material for longer intervals between cleaning and re-oiling, and select stack length based on exhaust type (most likely the short stack). Race users for competition should choose the RACE Filter Material, and select stack length based on exhaust type. Engine tuning is essential for all combinations of the CarbonSmith / MWR Racing Intake Solution. Note: Does not come with a Crank Case Vent Catch Can. There are so many ways do do this, from a simple vent tube going to a filter, or a vent tube going to a catch can of different shapes, we wanted to leave it up to the customer to find the best solution for their application. Hose Clamps not included. Prices are as follows: Short Stack/RACE Filter $222.95 Short Stack/Performance Filter $222.95 Long Stack/RACE Filter $247.95 Long Stack/Performance Filter $247.95 RACE Material Replacement Set $114.95 Performance Filter Replacement Set $114.95 These prices were set with this Forum in mind, so people who buy the complete Racing Intake Solution from us get a built-in discount. You can order right off our website here: https://www.bellissimoto.com/parts/air-filters/CARBONSMITH -MWR-Racing-Intake-Solution-RIS-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07
  7. 6 points
    Love when a customer is willing to pay for Titanium really dresses up the bikes vs the stock hardware. Plus all the case bolts are the same size so just order them in bulk and go. Crunch is on for testing at Roebling this coming week. Need to have the bike ready for the dyno tomorrow and get started tuning. Don’t want to mount anything on the dymags so I’ll just use a stock R6 wheel for now. Lots of small odds and ends will keep me busy between now and then.
  8. 6 points
    Forgot to mention, I had a set of fairings at a custom graphics shop getting 3d laser measured so now I can simply have a custom vinyl wrap made. We'll see how that goes when we try it out on this bike. It'll be nice to get graphics made in whole or in part when it comes to fixing crash damage as opposed to trying to repaint or match paint. And a I have a new found appreciation for Vortex. I had left an after hours message last night checking on getting some custom sprockets made for these new Dymags. Was I ever surprised when I got a call from Vortex at 0800 hours this morning and they were cutting my sprockets before they had finished getting my payment info over the phone. Shipped today! Best customer service - EVER! I'll never use any other sprocket.
  9. 5 points
    🏍🏍🏍🏍🏍 Well, the time is finally here to load out for the first race of the 2020 season. We're headed to Road America in Elkhart Lake, WI for the first round of the MotoAmerica Twins Cup season. Well get the one on the right delivered to its new owner, Shawn. I'll pit and wrench for him to get it set up to his liking and get him on the podium. At the same time I have to pit and wrench on my own bike and get Anthony on the podium. Sorry in advance to Matt @ Robem, Andy @ AP Motoarts, John @ M4 Ecstar Suzuki and all the others for hogging up the podium spots, haha. I have also assembled the finest crew lack of $$ can buy. Moving up from the club racing paddock to make his professional debut is none other than @cornerslider of this forum. Welcome Rich. The rest of the crew, Daniel, Nate and the old bird return if only for the food and booze. Huge thank you everyone! BLR
  10. 5 points
    I decided to try something new this year and try out the rear link and offset triples that Matt makes. Ill start by saying I DID NOT decide to try them out because of poor handling, rear squat, bike not turning, not being able to exit a turn blah blah. Actually, the way Zoran at TWF racing initially set up my bike with oem forks and traxxion internals along with an oem link and proper sprung and length penske in the rear the bike handled the exact opposite of what i read in alot of these posts about the fz07. It was a sharp handling bike. All i had to do was think about it and the fz07 did it and did it well. Now, why i DID decide to try out what Matt has to offer. The super duper fastest guys in the world are doing it. You dont know what you dont know. Plain and simple. I have to find out for myself. It was time to try something new to gain more edge and what better time in the off season to make some changes to the scoot. I havnt been able to shake it down yet but im feeling real good about this new setup. Im still running the TWF suspension setup but with the new triples and link. Ive spent some time with Matt on the phone picking his brain and trying to soak up his information and advice. He's answered his phone, returned calls, texts, and always been good with communication. All this while hes getting bikes ready for when the MA season does start. So, Thanks for the time and support Matt.
  11. 5 points
    Because you are looking at air temp and not coolant temp bud
  12. 5 points
  13. 5 points
    Sunday morning, same thing, woke up too early but the mind was racing so it was time to get at it. I still had a lot to do and wanted to get started. I started with the undertail. The black was going to be the hardest part to wrap because its very round and there was going to need to be a lot of heat and stretching to get it wrapped even remotely well. It took a very long time for the black and red on the undertail and I almost stopped at that point but decided to keep going on the section between the lower pattern and the upper. As of now this is how its sits and am very please with it to this point. I do still want to add some red to the lower triangle that is white between the 1/2" black strips but after that its just the stickers to finish it off. The last picture is how it currently sits. I hope to get some more work done on it this weekend. I have a Brembo master to put on and bleed out, and figure out the rest of the subframe support since right now all thats holding it up are the two top tubes from the original frame. I dont think this is enough support to race on so will need to figure out what to add so its more like a real subframe. Sorry for the very very long bunch of posts but wanted to share and get all caught up to where it is now and how I got here. Its been fun so far and cant wait to actually put it on track if they ever open back up.
  14. 4 points
    There is only a limited amount of T7's availible in June due to Covid19. The preorder was Friday and all of them were claimed by 3 pm. We had to register for a bike at 10:00 am on the Yamaha site. Then we had to give the registration number to the Dealer along with a $500 deposit. I had already paid my deposit last year. Yamaha Corp even called everyone to congratulate us on ordering a Tenere 700. Sounds like bikes start hitting the Dealer showrooms first week in June. I'm already ordering off road parts, skid plate, rear rack, dirt tires and crash bars. Have Gilles tooling chain adjusters , rear axle nut and MWR coming from @bellissimoto . He ordered a T7 too!
  15. 4 points
    Not bad for hand cutting the graphics, turned out nicely. I had the lettering done by All Out Graphics. They always do a nice job, are reasonably priced and are next day fast. The 3D work for wraps and full graphics turned out to be prohibitively expensive for a race bike. I think this old school simple look is tight.
  16. 4 points
    Thats quite right, if it wasnt for the obligatory restrictor. Today we run tha YZFR6, yamahas 600cc racing engine. The restrictor consists of a venturi (20mm for gas, 19mm for ethanol), all the air that goes into the engine has to pass through it. With 600cc screamers the problem is that they rev so high that they displace "too much air", we've been fine tuning the R6 for 4 years now, and the most we could get NA is around 84HP, the engine peaks at 14k RPM, but at that point the Venturi is holding back so much air that we can make much more power The maximum flow that goes thrhough is around 4.15kg/min R6 (@peak hp rpm) 0.0006 (displacement in M^3) * 14000 Rpm * 1,225 (air density) * 0.5 (beacuse a cycle takes 2 revs) = 5.32kg/min The same formula for the peak on the MT07 (Around 8600 RPM) results in 3.73 kg/min That way we are using all the engine has to offer, the supercharger comes to enhance the whole torque curve I can tell you by the small data we have, it is going to be a beast! extremely competitive
  17. 4 points
    By saturday night I had both sides done and the top of the tail. This took a long, long time to make sure everything was even and as crisp as I could make it. I know, this is probably way more work than I should have but into a racebike that could be thrown down the track but once I got started it just kept going and going and I was liking it more and more and more.
  18. 4 points
    Once I got the bike it was time to start making a plan and ordering parts. First items I ordered were the rearset plates and a slipper clutch. Ordered the Sutter clutch and Robem Engineering rearset plates and got those installed. Pretty simple so far and easy to install. Took it for a spin around the block to check it out. I then realized the springs are way to stiff for me as I am only about 145 pounds without gear so ordered a new spring for the rear and determined what to use for the front. Joe had send extra springs for the front so was able to swap those out for the next project. Not to big of a deal other than needing the special wrench for the KTech forks I didnt have so had ordered that when I ordered the rear spring.
  19. 4 points
    Wife come at me today, something about "quit spending so much time & money on those stupid racebikes". So I backed ole HunnerDollar outta the garage, started cleaning it up for spring and grabbed the accessories catalog. Never has a woman shut up so fast. Back to racing.
  20. 4 points
    So good news, bad news day. Good news bodywork is at painters. Better news I have a set of Dymag forged aluminum wheels coming for this bike courtesy of Paul @bellissimoto, fricken crack dealer. Bad news, now I'm depressed about my POS, gonna hafta get a friggin RS660 and then ...stupid sport... I hate ...waaa..sniff.. Gonna be fun to watch this thing getting beat on tho!
  21. 3 points
    Hi All, I'm new here but I figured I'd contribute to the forum by posting my 7" Round light conversion using a light and brackets from Amazon as I couldn't find much while researching. I love the round light look but couldn't justify spending the crazy costs from Motodemic and Brogue on my well used 2015. Although, I'd definitely advocate for Brogue after doing the research, their bracket seems to be more worth the cost integrating with the OEM headlight mount and not requiring any modifications. If you have the money go this route, it'll look a lot cleaner and be far easier to install. If you're like me and don't want to spend $1000 for a light and barely ride at night try this. Here is the headlight I used. The brackets that come with it aren't great, I did use them to mount it up before getting better ones but I'd just order 41mm brackets right away. https://www.amazon.ca/SKTYANTS-Headlights-Housing-Motorcycle-Davidsion/dp/B078MVXJBL/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=SKTYANTS+7"+7+Inch+led+Headlights+with+7+inch+Housing+Bucket+DRL+Turn+Signal+Lights+Motorcycle+for+Harley+Davidsion&qid=1590079095&s=automotive&sr=1-8 Here are the brackets I used. https://www.amazon.ca/HTT-Motorcycle-Headlight-Universal-Kawasaki/dp/B01ERY83VM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=HTT+Group+Motorcycle+Black+41mm+Turn+Signal+Clamps+Headlight+Mount+Bracket+Fork+Ear+Chopper+Cafe+Racer+Black+for+Universal+Honda+CBR+Kawasaki+Suzuki+Yamaha+Harley+Davidson&qid=1590079141&s=automotive&sr=1-2 I ordered the TST wiring harness to wire in the signals and DRL's. https://motostarz.ca/collections/fz-07-mt-07/products/tst-industries-signal-plug-converter-3-to-3-for-yamaha As for install it was pretty easy, you have to cut the plastic fork covers off, this is a little tough to do and make sure you don't scratch up your forks. I used my Leatherman knife and was able to get them off with some careful cutting. If you have a proper shop and want to keep the fork covers, you can take your forks off and slip the covers off. I installed the brackets as low as I could so that I could fit my stock cowl and windscreen above the round light to cover the wiring and protect it from rain. As for wiring, the main headlight is an H4 fitment and is plug and play. If you want the DRLs and integrated signals that is what the TST harness is for. I cut and soldered together the TST harness to the headlight so it becomes plug and play. With the TST harness the red wire is ground, the brown wire is the signal light and the blue wire is the running light. The light output isn't bad, it's not the same as a JW Speaker cutoff or any expensive projector but it's far better than stock and the look is way better than the halogen bulb. I haven't taken night photos but will try to eventually and update this post. Here are some pics.
  22. 3 points
    TL;DR: Cogent make a drop in emulator that's easier to install than a Racetech Gold Valve and it does a great job improving the fork dampening. Cogent Dynamics Inc - Drop in Damper Cartridge; DDC for short, street name Emulator. If you want to know more about “emulators”, Racetech has lots of info about their Gold Valve Cartridge Emulators . Cogent Dynamics tout that their DDCs also change the rebound dampening. Not sure about that since they don’t create a seal with the fork walls but Cogent’s recommended Spectro Golden 5W oil will probably make rebound faster due to the oil being much thinner than the factory 10w oil. Here is a picture of the DDC. The dimensions of the DDC are 31mm OD x 12mm height. Mounting lip has an OD of 24mm. Installation is very simple, the only tool I needed was a flexible claw pickup tool. The DDC will stick to a magnet pickup tool but the magnet won’t let go inside the fork. An added bonus of the 5W oil is that you don’t need to drill the factory damping rod. Just drop in the DDC, replace the oil & cut your spacer by 12mm. This is also a good time to upgrade your spring or add preload adjusters if you don’t have them. You could also go hog wild and replace your fork seals as well. My install was a bit more trick because my bike came with a Matris FKE spring kit that has a weird flow restrictor. I needed to add another spacer to take up the additional 11mm. 1 in Schedule 80 PVC worked well for this because the nominal OD of 1 in PVC is 1.315 in = ~34mm and ID is ~24mm which clears the valve area. Schedule 40 will work but it has thinner walls, ID of ~27mm. The ID of the fork tubes is about 36mm. At the same time I replaced the 9.0 N/mm to a 8.5 N/mm spring to better suit my weight(180). NOTE THE PINHOLE VALVE SHOULD FACE UP TOWARDS THE SPRING. DDC recommends an oil level of 150mm from top and adjust to your preferred damping. I overfilled slightly at 146ish. Cogent said I will need 2 bottles of Spectro Golden. I only needed 1 and have 4oz to spare. Initial Impression Amazing, this severely changed the dampening. The bike doesn’t get upset as much over bumps and feels plush for everyday riding, kinda like gliding over the road. It’s hard to explain but feels better in every way. Very much like an aftermarket rear shock(having just upgraded the rear). It doesn’t get rid of the brake dive but does inspire confidence over bumps when on the brakes. Rebound seems slower, I think that’s why it feels more confident over bumps. Zero rubber banding, bounce etc. May experiment with adding oil to stiffen the dampening for the track. I believe if you give Cogent a call, they can custom valve one for you. Cost I picked these up from a fellow forum member for just under $100. It was well worth it. I can’t seem to figure out the Cogent website to give you a street price. Conclusion Amazing upgrade, gave me a ton of confidence in the front end, feels plush and expensive. Cogent’s solution fits, is easy to install and works well and you don’t need to drill the damping rod or adjust the valve preload. Probably doesn’t compare to a true cartridge but a nice budget solution. Can't be tuned like the Gold Valve but that's to it's advantage. I’m very happy with the results.
  23. 3 points
    Boring around the shop waiting on package delivery so I decided to clean up a little. Thought I'd use up some scrap and pay back some favors, No Band-Aids yet, Tenracing has been good to me so, Viola, V2 engine stand nearing completion. Had a great day bench racing with folks from all over the world while I worked. Brett's new toy. Haha, forgot all about what I was supposed to be doing. Oh well, there's always tomorrow.
  24. 3 points
    Thought I would throw up a side bar about these things since I use them a lot and many folks are curious about them. It seems I get more questions and comments about my inverter than my bike at MotoAmerica races, lol. I had to replace my Harbor Freight Predator 3500 inverter this year. I had run it for 3 years and put 593 hours* on it before she let go last fall at Pitrace. I replaced it with the pictured Westinghouse iGen4500 inverter. These are marketed as Cummins-Onan, Pulsar or Westinghouse. Both these units are quite popular due to price, especially when compared to their Honda or Yamaha equivalents at 2 to 3 times the cost. Tale of the tape: Basics spec's, the Predator, $700ish, is 3500max/3000 continuous watts, 212cc, 57 decibles, 12 hour run time, 1-30 amp universal twist lock (aggrevating) and 2-20 amp outlets. Electric start with recoil backup. The Westinghouse is $1000ish, 4500max/3700 continuous watts, 224cc, 52 decibles (optimistic), 18 hour run time, 1-30amp RV plug (more practical) and 2-20 amp outlet, wireless remote start fob, cool telescoping toter handle concealed in bottom. Electric start with recoil backup and the aforementioned remote. Both units are very quiet, especially compared to their generator counterparts, but substantially more expensive than same. They are approx 1/3 the price of the Honda or Yamaha variants and generally reliable. Both units have informative digital info centers and the Westinghouse has a fuel gauge that has fuel remaining and run time remaining features. * My Predator burned out at Pitrace last fall using it during a trackday weekend. We were running 2 sets of tire warmers @1100 watts each and the air conditioner @ 1200 watts. We repeatedly reset the over load switch in the paddock where the pavement temp was 103 degrees (air temp in the low 90's). It had 593 hours on it. At 3000 watts it was marginal for my needs and was getting abused on a continual basis. I had changed oil in it religously after every race weekend, approx 45 hours run time. This new unit was chosen to hopefully be more suitable to my needs. Time will tell.
  25. 3 points
    A quick update, finally got ECU back from 2WDW after the USPS took over a week to get to me one way. As it turns out I was not crazy and didn’t do anything wrong as far as the quick shifter working. From 2WDW: ”Greg, We were able to replicate and resolve the issue on our test bike. I truly can't begin to explain why what we did worked, because it shouldn't have. The FTECU software has a huge bug in it right now, because the oldest firmware available for the FTECU Quickshifter module is the only one that works for some reason. I have to call FTECU on Monday before I can go into much more detail, because I doubt they're even aware of the issue.” So I was correct all along but I was able to finally get it back together and take for a ride 2 days ago before it snowed again . Finally another smile on my face as it worked again! Supposed to warm up at the end of next week so more seat time coming.
  26. 3 points
  27. 3 points
    I already have the MWR air filter and lid, Trust Me, Y’all want one of these. thats all I got to say about that
  28. 3 points
    Don't let @Bigturbomax and @FZ07R WaNaB fool you. That factory vinyl covered plank was never meant for touring for anyone with a "normal" backside.
  29. 3 points
    Hey there, My name is Douglas and i participate in an university grade motorsports competition called FSAE. Basically, we pick a motorcycle engine(710cc max), and build a car around it, following the rules imposed by SAE. Designed, built, and raced by students. (turbo and supercharging are allowed) Anyways, its a complex "sport", if anyone has any questions, im glad to help! Lets go straight to the topic. I, as the Powertrain lead of our team, am starting to design a Supercharged MT07 (super over turbo for various reasons i can discuss later), i have selected one roots style blower (Eaton TVS R250), and made the calculations to get 90hp on low boost (5psi) and 110hp on high boost (10psi). [Keep in mind our car weights 200kg]. See some of the data below This plot is basically how much air the engine breathes, in red the NA engine, in yellow the setup that gets 90hp, intercooled 5psi of boost, and in Blue the setup that gets me 90hp without a intercooler (around 7.6 psi). The horizontal line, near the 250kg/h is our intake restriction that is of mandatory use during the dynamic events. This was made to justify the use of an intercooler, mainly. This is the main plot i get from a Matlab program i made to size a roots blower to the MT07/FZ07 engine , but it is all in there, Max rpm, SC displacement, Temperature gain, etc etc. If it interests anyone i could definetly share the data. Yamaha was suppose to give us an engine, but Covid-19 crisis started and that kinda got delayed. Poblem is that i have time on my hands, and i want to make this project work, but for that i need Dyno data, i need the table with the power outputs so i can sim the supercharger loads and get a "Supercharged Dyno torque curve" that we can rely on to design the rest of the car (the loads imply on suspension design, aero setups, etc etc) I would like to know if any of you guys would have that kind of info, or know where i could get it. Thanks in advance, and lets gooooooo That MT07 is going to whistle real soon Pic of the car so you guys can see what im talking about
  30. 3 points
    Bodywork came back from paint! Its not a perfect job but its certainly good enough for a racebike. I had it done all one color as my plan was to learn how to do a vinyl wrap. Ive put tons of stickers and numbers on before but never full graphics on a bike. Before I usually did a single color or a rattle can paint job but wanted this one a bit nicer so that was the plan. I just had to learn to do it so that was the next step.
  31. 3 points
    Being here in Colorado I know Jason Madama and have always admired the FZ he raced in Moto America last season with the R6 bodywork on it. After talking with him a bunch and talking to different bodywork companies I decided to order all the bodywork from Sharkskinz along with a Tightails upper fairing stay. What I ordered was a combination of R6 upper, side panels, tail, undertail and seat pan and a tank cover, lower and fairing stay for the FZ-07. The good news is I was able to order all from the same company in one fell swoop but they did give me so long pauses on the phone when I was ordering. It took a lot of explaining. LOL. Then after waiting several weeks it finally showed up. The R6 stuff took the longest because it was the same time all the big teams where prepping bikes for Daytona so it was the waiting game for them to make it. I also will say, I do have a nice shop to work in here at my house but its not heated so the bikes live in my attached garage during the winter months. I dont normally work on my bikes in the home gym in my garage but its nice and toasty so I had to make do until the weather warms up. Bodywork shows up and I got started on it right away. I knew I had a lot of work ahead of me but did get several tips from Jason on how to make the sides line up with the lower fairings and where to cut them for attaching together. He was very helpful in the process as Im not sure I would have attempted this without his guidance. I did do all the work myself but I dont have the fab shop or tools to do what a lot of you are able to do. Mine is a tab more crude in design and cutting phase but it works for me. Once I get it all put together and fitted Ill probably enlist some help from some fab guys to make the pieces look better.
  32. 3 points
    Body shop called already and said come get this stuff, so I did. Looks good in classic white. Now a graphics kit or something and I think we're gooderest. Not sure about the fender. Paint it? Or no? Ideas___________
  33. 3 points
    The fairing brackets supplied by S2. Were very nice. The top one was too wide for the upper triple clamp. I cut and sectioned the top mount and welded it back together. The lower mount was not even close to fitting the FZ-07, so I fabricated my own. A little filing and machine turning and they were done.
  34. 3 points
    Stay away from that guy, I'm tellin ya! Love me nekid bike racing. And yours is a fine one. Well done!
  35. 2 points
    The YSS MZ456-310TRL-39 TL;DR: YSS makes a quality shock for a “Grey Market” price in between iffy retrofits like the 18+ MT or 600rr shocks and paying for a properly set up guaranteed quality piece like the Ohlins/K-Tech $500-$600 It’s a 46mm shock, 16mm shaft, ~312-14mm in length, Adjustable length, Preload & Rebound, Nitrogen Filled. Single Preload Collar with set screw. Replaceable spring, probably rebuildable. Spring I received was 56-120 like K-Tech unlike the Ohlins which is 115. The packaging is very basic. There is Taiwanese everywhere but has everything translated in english. And it’s properly translated showing they care. Bumpstop has YSS molded into it showing they care about the small details, nitrogen valve cover has a paint mark for indicating if the screw was removed. Finish seems good, no visible imperfections although I question if the lack of coating will effect protection against corrosion. I’d also prefer it be a twin colar preload but at least it has another setscrew location in the back if you ruin the first set screw. Probably could fit a spare collar and get rid of the setscrews. There are no bushings on the mount like the Ohlin’s one which may cause wear but K-Tech & stock are similar. None of the FZ/MT-07 shocks have bushings on the clevis. I had the shock set to factory preload and felt it needed to be turned down a bit because my bike had no static sag. That moved the collar closer to my Hordpower intake. I worry about the clearance so I won’t be adjusting further until I have my suspension properly tuned. Riding Impressions Feels way better, spring is much better suited for my weight and the compression damping made a huge difference. Ohlin’s recomendeds 14 click rebound and Ktech recommends 16 clicks. I tried 14 clicks from full soft initially but that felt too aggressive for my bumpy test loop. 10 Clicks is where I settled on. Overall an amazing upgrade, highly recommended although it is further pointing out my lackluster front forks. Cost $341.83 shipped from Italy via Ebay, look around and you may be able to get one for $320. Bottom line Seems like a quality shock priced in between retrofits like the 18+ shocks or 600rr shock and paying for a properly set up, guaranteed quality piece like the Ohlins/K-Tech $500-$600. You are taking a gamble buying via Grey Market a.k.a. no returns, questionable parts.
  36. 2 points
    Ended up doing about 600 miles on this bike over the past two days. I'm very happy. If you commute in town daily and want ultimate plushness, this is not for you. I wouldn't call the ride quality harsh. I think "taut" would be a better description. There's a reason Cadillac's don't ride like Corvette's. This is definitely sport bike suspension. The bike feels so much more composed now. I may try to dig in to the compression stacks and search for some low speed plushness ( I'm pretty familiar with this generation of Showa cartridges, so I have some ideas and good baselines to work from ), but right now I don't have any complaints. However, I will update the thread if things progress.
  37. 2 points
    My view on art is that if it looks like something I could do it is not art (I am not at all artistic). I think my view on motorcycles is the same. If it looks like something I could make it is not a good motorcycle design.
  38. 2 points
    The apocalypse styling is gonna be here for a while. Cool if that's your style, but I'll be damned if I pay new bike money for something the looks completely unfinished.
  39. 2 points
    That was Freiburger's comment... "I bet it makes most horsepower with no oil!" I do wish they'd dropped one more quart. With a new oil pan filled to the capacity called for, they found it would be above the windage tray, hitting the crank. They recommended when fitting a new high volume pan, to measure the water required to fill the pan to just below the windage tray and use that amount of oil in the engine. Now this was with high capacity, not stock. Obviously the hot ticket would be dry sump - near to zero oil in the crank case as possible, most being pumped out to the tank/frame/whatever. I may have forgotten to add that oil pressure would actually drop as the churned oil would aeriate. Up in the higher rpm. That as they dropped oil fill amount that pressure drop would be less. Demonstrated the additional problem with overfull on oil - pressure drop. My comment on that really was saying it makes sense to run middle/low on the oil window than to be full up. It can take out power for sure if there. Few think of the crank splashing around in oil as being a power drain, but it is. On a car a simple solution is to run a high volume pan then run a quart or two below. The pick up is still in more than adequate oil. Not so easy on the bike, although the older MotoGuzzi oil pan set up could have a spacer added to deepen the pan with appropriate oil pump pick up modification. I think the oil thing is really important for track day and race people, but for the average rider odds are as long as you actually put oil in the engine, keep an eye on level, and change it at least as often as the manufacturer recommends, adding a filter change, the engine will never experience an actual oil failure. The racers and track riders are likely running higher engine temps so there would be some plus to the racing oils. For the average rider - again - the one thing that does seem to be affected by oil is shifting and clutch. So that really would be the one absolutely legitimate reason for some specific oils. All oils will protect as long as they are in the engine. Performance may vary, but not so much the protection. Otherwise we would see failures. But hey, I'm just an average rider. This is just my opinion from everything I've read and seen. If an oil company would follow my recommendations we'd have motorcycles that smell like bacon...
  40. 2 points
    I think you may have nailed it Paul. I was fortunate to get in on the last group buy. The rear axle nut is a must by the way . Take advantage of this if you haven’t already
  41. 2 points
    I just shared this on our MT07 facebook group. I have noticed that a lot of the newer Mt07 owners buy a lot of junk from Aliexpress, and then post mad when it breaks two weeks later. Guys and gals, this stuff is not what you would find on Ali express.
  42. 2 points
    Me either! Haha. Possibly because many have already bought these items. I do have an individual who may be on the list, but is inquiring about other, non-group buy items as well, so you may see the list populated with one person soon
  43. 2 points
    Update on my 2020 MT-03 experience. Since last post, I have: 1) Removed the throttle tube I had installed and replaced it with an actual 2006 R6 throttle tube so that I would know for certain what it came from and so I would know I'm using the Real McCoy R6 throttle tube. 2) Removed the Renthal grips I'd installed and put on some Pro Taper Half-Waffle MX grips. 3) I turned the rear shock spring preload down one notch to better-suit my 150 pounds body weight. 4) I adjusted the shift lever height up 5 millimeters to make it easier to get my Sidi boot under it. 5) The rubber shift pedal tip got cut off and replaced with another Yamaha part that looks like the original one, but is made of softer rubber that actually feels much better. The original one felt like hard plastic in comparison. I now have about 710 miles on the 2020 MT-03 and I've had some good rides over the month in some great, warm weather, the kind of conditions that bring the best out in sport tires. I can see why Yamaha Motor Corp., USA claims the YZF-R3 is their best-selling motorcycle here in the USA: This 2020 MT-03 feels great going into and exiting corners, and the 2020 MT-03 is a 2019 or 2020 R3 with less bodywork and taller handlebars. Many of the parts are exactly the same on both bikes, like the R&G Tail Tidy and Exhaust Hanger Bracket I recently ordered (the Tail Tidy to improve appearance and the Exhaust Hanger Bracket to remove the passenger pegs). The bike feels as stable as any other Yamaha sport bike I've owned with 321cc maneuverability. That's a great combination and, I'm happy to report, the 2020 MT-03 is feeling and performing as I hoped it would: Very good, indeed.
  44. 2 points
    So I was stumbling thru some old dead seas scrolls from the 60's and found my Log of Life. My mother made 3 entries then mysteriously quit under 'Accidents'. I think she had discovered something and it was kept a secret from me for all these years, lol. They're all still there although somewhat hidden among the dozens more. Thanks Mom, I miss you.
  45. 2 points
    Got a bit more done on the racebike today. Made a bracket to fit in the faring stay to mount the gauge too. I couldnt see it very well in the provided mount because the laptimer is in the way so this allows me to raise it for better view. Strapped it on temporary to make sure everything works as planned then I will take it off and have it welded permanently. Also had to rebuild a free brembo master, replace the levers install it and make a bracket for the res. Got it all on and all bled out so now it has brakes again. Replaced the rear brake res with a length of tygon tubing. Did a few other tidy up items also like mount transponder bracket, fill water overflow and put on several stickers to make it go faster since each one is worth a MPH on the back straight, Right? Still have a few items to do like make brackets to mount the front fender since the stock on is not going to work. It will hit when hard braking so I have an 04 CBR fender that is going on it. Havent quite decided how to support the rear subframe yet but have several ideas and knowing me what ever is the hardest is what Im going to tackle. LOL. Also will be taking it down to my tuner to have the map checked with the fuel I will be using to see how close it is and adjust as needed. Contemplating a different intake set up as well so that will require it to be remapped. Havent decided which direction to go with that yet.... So much to do... so little time.
  46. 2 points
    Don't start reflashing or tearing down motors yet. Sounds like it's clogged up somewhere with rust/debris. Make sure everything is clean from the tank to the tailpipe. Retrace your steps and clean, repair or replace anything that is suspect of being affected by said mess. Make sure the tank is properly cleaned and/or creamed so it doesn't keep replugging the system. Replace all the fuel and vent lines that may have become clogged. Run some Seafoam through it. Clean the injectors and throttle bodies. Check the fuel pump and replace any parts as necessary. I'd bet it's just dirtied up somewheres. Good luck. Edit: I'm surprised the dealer let it out the door in that condition. I'd be having a discussion with them about getting it fixed or splitting it with you or working out something unless you already made that deal and took it 'as is'.
  47. 2 points
    I did have to cut the subframe off right behind the seat mount brackets and the low tubes were cut off leaving a couple inches for future use if needed. Im not sure at this point how the rear subframe is going to look or be shaped but I have a few Ideas. Needless to say lots of blue tape and clamps were used to get everything mounted up but I did finally get it where I liked everything and I could send it off to paint. A buddy of mine I used the race with saw what I was doing and said he would paint it for me for a good price so I was just a matter of getting it to him and getting it back when he was done.
  48. 2 points
    I'm not being a dick it's a genuine question but I'm guessing from your question you probably haven't ridden a bike with bespoke aftermarket suspension that's been set up properly (latter part is even more important than former)? Firstly I should probably point out that I have not taken it on track, so I haven't pushed it as hard as I have for previous bikes with ohlins/ktech, however I have pushed as hard as almost anyone does on the roads, and it was set up as a committed dry weather road bike with rosso corsa 2 tyres and mildly upgraded brakes and works as well as I hoped it would. The stock stuff is terrible, the forks are possibly the worst I've ever had on a bike, the shock is pretty bad but I've had worse. So before forks dive just on gear changes if not blipping, rear locks all the time, can't apply brakes suddenly or the front will lock as not fully loaded for a few moments, hit a bump on a committed sweeping bend and you are still pogoing 4 seconds later as you run wide on the exit etc etc. In the uk roads are peppered with potholes. They will still be felt with aftermarket suspension but the bike returns to normal immediately after as its properly damped, whereas.with stock it can again be doing a pogo impression. Too.much damping like with ohlins ttx and it jars really badly. Nitron is just right. Going back to stock comments above, all these issues are resolved. I can brake later and harder and predict what's going to happen under me consistently each time making it safer to ride faster than before. It wont stoppie or wheelie as readily, it was slide the rear when you hit the front brakes harder,it will hold a line on the exit of a corner even if you hit a bump etc etc. And if you dont like something, you can change it and the behaviour of the bike will change. A lot of the at the limit stuff you wont detect on the road though. If I was going on track with my shock set up as it is I know it would be slightly under damped and possibly undersprung, but I specced it as such(forks are but firmer relatively and would be fine on a race bike, I've softened them off for road). Would I do it again? Absolutely. But if you are keeping the bike for a year? Probably not due to cost/hassle. The only downside other than cost/hassle is that the bike can now handle an extra 50bhp so the engine doesnt feel as fun in a way, and its lost that out of control mental little puppy attitude it had, as now it doesnt skid, wheelie and slide everywhere even when I didn't want it to. But it's a shet load faster,everywhere theres a corner in sight!
  49. 2 points
    Wait, I'm confused. Why did the engine get tore down? Did you do a leak down or compression test? What was results of a vacuum leak or o2 sensor check? Seems extreme to pull the engine down just to see. Good news it all looks normal from the pics.
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