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  1. Battery may be taking a shet on you. Things get weird quickly with batteries on the last leg. Maybe check to see how the voltage is on it. My FZ6 would read all over on the rpm and mph while cruising at continuous speeds. Then one day just wouldn't turn over. Fresh battery resolved all the issues.
    5 points
  2. This is a method to lift your MT07. I used a paddock stand to lift the bike by the swing arm. I then positioned jack stands on either side of the bike and a sturdy bar under the passenger foot pegs (move aside the rear brake reservoir first, and move aside the rear brake caliper while you're at it). I lowered the bike from the paddock stand onto the bar and jack stands. The result is a practical and robust bike lift that allows for complete rear suspension disassembly. I did all of this to clean, inspect, and pack new grease into all of the swing arm and linkage bearings. Having done this for the first time on this bike at 7300 mi (~12000 km), I can say all of the bearings looked great and had good grease from the factory.
    4 points
  3. I managed to get it off! I messaged the only retailer for this part in my area and they managed to find a manual for the part on the french Yamaha website. It was in fact a Gilles part and I needed an H2 allen key to remove the set screw, afterwards I could twist the bobbins off of the threaded rod. I hadn't tried to fit an allen key that small, which is why it didn't work earlier. Luckily I could borrow one. Here is the manual for anyone that stumbles upon this thread: http://www2.yamaha-motor.fr/utilities/acc-extra/mounting/BATFRAXP0000 Rear axle protector.pdf Thanks for the help guys!
    4 points
  4. Also check and adjust the angle of the shift peg. When shifting gears, if the shift lever isn't full released (like still resting slightly on your foot) the shift barrel and ratchet will not disengage and you will not be able to shift to the next gear. Try releasing your foot completely from the lever between each shift to see if that has any affect. Also make sure the Heim Joints (bearings on each end of the shift rod) are in alignment, from the picture, the one on the foot shift lever looks straight, but the top one on the engine shift arm looks like it it turned outward. This may cause some binding. Ed
    4 points
  5. Sorry for no updates. Got the issue solved for anyone coming acrossed this in the future. Pulled throttle body and one of the butterfly valves had sucked up part of my air filter! So you guys were spot on with the assumption it wasn't fully closing. Pulled the throttle body, cleaned out the foam/residue reinstalled and the bike has been running perfect since! Guess I got lucky nothing sucked into the engine, or if it did it didn't harm anything.
    3 points
  6. Hi everyone! I just found this forum and decided to create an account. I bought my first motorbike, of course MT-07, last summer and it has been lot of fun. Now I am waiting summer, there is still plenty of snow but after couple of months I will be riding again. But now at winter I enjoy other activities for example husky safari. My bike is MT-07 2018 with Akrapovich Titanium exhaust. Good day you all!
    3 points
  7. If you could document your journey with this that would be extremely helpful! I'm not doing any engine/trans work this season but most likely in the future. I'm also one to do the work myself so being able to go back to forums and see how others did their MT07 trans and engine work would be amazing.
    2 points
  8. An advantage of rear sets is that it gives you a good place to put your jack stands when you want weight off the rear suspension.
    2 points
  9. The angles look ok. Are you trying to shift gears with the motor off and the bike just sitting, or is your shifting difficulty occurring while moving with the motor running? Have you determined that nothing is physically interfering with the shift rod and lever moving fully?
    2 points
  10. So here's the thing. The bolts in question are crucially important. Not only do they attach the motor to the frame but, at least as importantly, they enable the motor to add much needed structural rigidity to the frame. Take the motor out and sit gently on the frame, you'll see just how wimpy the frame is without the motor. So, those bolts need to be tight, so the motor doesn't shift slightly under load. It is the clamping force of the bolts that matters most. I suspect that the slider torque numbers you've found are based either on a lower grade bolt, less thread engagement in the cylinder head, or a bit of softness in the slider material that limits the effective clamping force of the bolts. I'd start by assuring you're using grade 10.9 bolts that will have no less thread engagement than the OEM bolts. I would then use the Yamaha- recommended torque with anti-seize (important with highly loaded steel into aluminum).
    2 points
  11. 1 point
  12. Yeah. I'm not sure either; maybe 21+? But worst case, I'll just get brand new. They're only 75$ for 15-17 and 60$ for 18-20.
    1 point
  13. With the bike being very stable in this configuration, you can absolutely lift the front end too. Using a triple tree head lift stand would allow for removal of the front wheel and suspension forks.
    1 point
  14. In my opinion the easiest option is the Evotech paddock stand bobbins, you can put them on or take them off in two minutes. I don’t leave them on the bike when I ride, mainly because they look pretty dorky (they sit waaay out from the swingarm, make sure your paddock stand can adjust wide enough to accomodate them). The drawback (as with all through-axle bobbins solutions) is that they’re great for chain cleaning and tire inspection, but if you need to adjust chain tension you need a different way to support the swingarm that lets you freely move the axle.
    1 point
  15. I'm sorry, that's a horrible way to do this... It's too easy! Not enough sweat equity and inadequate risk to fall over and break stuff.
    1 point
  16. I got my polished and undercut spears gearbox and kind of understood that the transmission was a “cartridge” design. Its looks like to swap the transmission I need to split the block. Before I do this can anyone confirm that the block DOES need to be opened? The service manual seems to indicate the block needs to come apart. I need to balance time/effort on this one. If I’m opening the block I’m going to do it “the right way” and upgrade cams and have all the parts ready for install. If I do this myself I’ll try and get a DIY posted Thanks for helping w my dumb question Shawn
    1 point
  17. Yes, you must split the cases, which means nearly all of the motor needs to come apart. Don't forget to order new head and case bolts; they are single use items. You might need/want a variety of shims to get the spacing right.
    1 point
  18. One thing you can do to get material, aluminum, is if there is a fabrication shop near you, they may have a piece of scrap you can get possibly for nothing, but definitely for only a few dollars. I used to go to one shop and could get several scraps of various thicknesses of aluminum for like $5. Big enough to make a small flat track/bobber size solo seat pan. Get some scrap and make your own. If you should need some spacers you can source them at a good hardware store.
    1 point
  19. Hey, I also have a 2021 mt07 and I found a place called ShapeWays that make a relocation kit for a 2020, but won't fit 2021. So I copied both the bolt pattern off my 21 and the bolt pattern from the ShapeWays bracket( its a 3D heavy-duty plastic made as soon as payment is made), and put them on the same piece of 1/8 metal( use stainless or aluminum) and all I have to do now is shape the piece and get it fitted. I made sure the holes were bigger than needed in case of adjustment. Also all holes are countersunk. You can also check out Aliexpress, they sell a kit to relocate also, about $30 USA. I'm from the USA myself. Hope this helps if you already figured a way, please let me know how and what you did. God Bless and ..Ride Safe my friend. Pat
    1 point
  20. I was leaning towards these 1 1/2" Barback Risers for 1 1/8" Handlebar
    1 point
  21. Yeah, that doesn't work......
    1 point
  22. It was due to shifting with the engine off, feel like a bit of a tit for not realising. Also thanks Ed I'll get those aligned!
    1 point
  23. Coils either generate a strong spark, a weak spark, or no spark. Yours (one or both) are generating at least a weak spark. A weak spark from a bad coil would explain the running on a single cylinder and the missing, but not the runaway throttle. The latter symptom requires that air enter one or both cylinders, with some fuel. Since you didn't find an air leak, I wonder if a throttle butterfly is sticking open some amount, but not consistently. Of course, it is possible that your symptoms are caused by two or more different conditions that just happen to coincide in time.
    1 point
  24. Symptoms suggest an air leak in the intake tract, especially the runaway throttle, backfiring, and good sparks unless, of course, the throttle on one or both throttle-bodies was actually hung open. Make sure the injectors are fully seated, and that the cap and hose are on their respective throttle-bodies.
    1 point
  25. (Also posted on the XSR forum) Just fitted the throttle tamer from M&P in Swansea to my 2023 MT-07; not only did it require no adjustment to the cables, being made precisely to stock hole positions, it has transformed low speed low speed handling, yet still gives that 'Master of Torque' power quickly enough at high openings. £79.95 including VAT and carriage UK.
    1 point
  26. I know this is old but I wanted to share what I did to switch out the headlight on my 2022 MT07. The 35v is the "ground" not the power. At the connector 2 are 12v switched and the others are ground but you cannot use them in any meaningful way. You can however replace the light control module and use 2 relays to utilize the factory wiring and make it plug and play. I'm using a 7" round led from ebay. I made a super cheesy youtube video showing my custom "light control module" to replace the factory one under the seat. I listed brief parts list and a wiring diagram to make it plug and play if you're up for a little DIY. Here's the link for anyone interested. https://youtu.be/pdg2D9PS-U8
    1 point
  27. Thank you for getting these measurements
    1 point
  28. Overall length is 24.5 CM Shaft from under bolt head to end of threads is 23.5 CM Diameter is 17mm Ed
    1 point
  29. Thats impressive @Evill_Ed you've really made this so beneficial to the FZ-07 forum.
    1 point
  30. I searched for the installation manual for these sliders. It says: "Do not try to install this product without proper tools, recently calibrated torque wrench, correct torque specifications from factory service manual,..." (https://www.revzilla.com/assets/0001/2453/shogun_frame_sliders_no_cut_white.pdf) So...Yamaha spec from service manual sounds good?
    1 point
  31. I found that my single temp Moto D tire warmers were hot enough for Dunlop slicks but not for Pirelli SC1s, so I got a set of Chicken Hawk Professional Digital warmers. Getting and keeping enough heat in the SC1s is key to them working right. My suggestion that you use what you know is to reduce variables during your first race weekends. Many new racers feel a lot of stress their first few race weekends, and reducing variables helps to limit stress and its adverse impact on performance. The less new stuff when you start out racing, the better. Your initial pace will be what it is but, be assured if you're like most riders, you will go faster in a race environment than you ever have during a track day with no changes to the bike.
    1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. Glad you're enjoying the modification Michelle. BTW - I have 2 Track Seasons on my Slipper set up. I mic'd the plates last year and measured the stack height and saw no appreciable wear. I'll measure them again this winter. Slipper clutches will wear faster as a result of their slipping properties, at least that's what I've been told. I keep a spare plate set in my track box just in case. Ed
    1 point
  34. I just wanted to comment in regards to anyone recently looking at this forum. I was throwing around ideas for a slipper clutch for my 2016 fz07. The Yoyodyne and Suter were just so expensive I started to search for other options. I saw this post from @Evill_Ed and decided this was a super smart and cost-efficient idea. I followed his parts list and installed the R7 slipper back in April of 2023. I then used my fz07 for a full track season this summer and man oh man this is one of the best upgrades you can do to these bikes. I highly recommend and I'm so pleased with how it turned out for my fz. Installation was super easy, parts came quickly. Thank you @Evill_Ed for this post!
    1 point
  35. This assumes you have the version of the bike that came with the immobilizer system.
    1 point
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