Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2021 in Posts

  1. 15 points
    I completed this build a couple of months back now, but thought it was time to share it with the group. I'm not one to document my builds as I'm usually busy with work/life/kids etc. so this is the first time it's made an appearance anywhere other than my local Facebook groups. Background: I've always had an interest in both road and dirt riding and so have been building "Scramblers" for about 10 years now. Started with a CB250RS, then CB400N, GS500, MT03 (660cc), Duke 390, and now finally the MT07. As much as I knew the MT07 would always be the perfect base for an adventure/dirt build, I was always a bit apprehensive about using my MT07 as it's been my faithful and all time favourite bike for the last three years now and also isn't a cheap bike to go awol on and turn into a dirt bike. Though I finally got sick of building Scramblers which just weren't quite good enough and so I bit the bullet and sacrificed my MT07 to the dirt gods. After spending countless hours on research prior and sourcing the necessary parts, the build itself was rather quick taking about a month from start to finish. The "kit", named so because everything is fully reversible and transferable to another MT07, is the following: - Gen 2 KLR 650 forks in the standard MT07 triples with Cogent DDC emulators, 200mm standard travel. - YSS SV650 shock, 175mm travel, revalved for adventure riding conditions. - KLR650 wheels, 21" / 17", running Motoz Rallz, and oversize 320mm front disc. - Fully functioning ABS retained with a toggle switch up on the handle bars. - Few accessories, screen, taller+wider bars, hand guards, skid plate, crash bars, ventura rack. - Plus a bunch of other bits and pieces, machined spacers, longer front brake line etc. to pull it all together. The end result is an absolute weapon off road and more fun than my stock MT07 was on road. It weighs in at 190kg wet, so about 10kg (22 pound) more than stock although that includes all the bolt on protection and the rack, so works out about the same. The bike sits about 75mm taller than stock at the sump with a bit more than that from the front end and a bit less from the rear so is canted back slightly giving it a more upright riding position. At 173cm (5'9) it's probably sitting at the limit of height that I can still manage off road although I have been riding dirt bikes for many years so am somewhat used to it. The suspension is dialed perfectly for myself at 73kg with the stock KLR fork springs and standard YSS SV650 spring and hits just the right balance of on/off road mix. Smooth enough when it gets rough, but firm enough for spirited road riding and preventing it from bottoming out. And with the altered ergos it wheelies like there's no tomorrow. I couldn't be happier with how this bike turned out. It's hands down the most fun bike I've owned over the years. My days of seeking out the perfect Scrambler are done as this is exactly the bike I was after. There's only one change potentially in the works. It might be about to become an XSR700!
  2. 14 points
    So I have tossed this idea around for a while and finally decided to pull the trigger. I cross rferenced all of the FZ07 and R7 parts list for the clutches and came up with this list to convert my FZ07 to a factory slipper set up. I trust factory parts so I feel confident about quality and longevity. I ordered the parts online, took about a month with supply chain issues. Cost was $305- I receieved the parts yesterday. Hope to install over the next couple of weeks. Ed All Parts (I Think ) Contents of Clutch Kit Parts List / Numbers
  3. 11 points
    This weekend was the final weekend of our Track Season. My buddy Rob was there with his 2022 YZF-R7. We had one session together in the afternoon where we were battling back and forth, we had a great time. Rob has the Yellow R7, I have the Red/White/Black FZ-07, I have the Blue Air Vest. Our bikes are similarly prepped, Tunes, Pipes, Suspension. Here are some video clips. Ed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4MO8rmx4Vk&authuser=0
  4. 11 points
    After 14 seasons of being a "track-day" rider/coach, I've stepped up my game!!! At 53 years old, I'm doing my first club-race at my "most" local track- BIR!!! (Brainerd International Raceway), in Brainerd, MN.... I have many laps on that track, and can't wait to do my first sanctioned race, on August 12th!!!! I know the learning curve will be HIGH (to say the least ). I'm racing my "07" in naked trim... I'm NOT chasing championships, or points.... I'm only chasing my smile (and anyone that runs about my pace) ... I have nothing to prove to anyone. (other than myself)... It just feels "right"- I probably wouldn't be doing ANY of this without the guidance/support of @mossrider... Dave has been a mentor to me and encouraged me to pursue my race license - he even offered to lend me his totally "bad-a$$" FZ-07R to pursue my race license (which I declined at the time)... I can't wait to chase my smile!!!!
  5. 11 points
    So here is the new look for 2022. I dusted off my spray guns, it's been 17 years since I last painted anything.
  6. 11 points
    Here are my pictures and notes for the installation of the R7 Slipper Clutch. PART TWO - Installation Stock FZ / MT Clutch Boss and Pressure plate on Top / R7 Slipper on Bottom Note Ramps and oval shaped holes on Boss and Plate, this is how they disengage to provide slip Install rear spacer first, then R7 Clutch Boss and front spacer Then Beveled Washer with the word OUT facing you and a new Boss Nut. Torque Boss Nut to 70-ft.lbs and stake the lock tab. Place the transmission in 6th gear and hold the rear brake to torque the Boss Nut. Install Clutch Damper Spring Seat Then install the Clutch Damper Spring. Note the bevel faces outward. Then begin installing the friction and clutch plates in order. Assemble dry and then measure the stack height. Range is 32.7 mm to 33.5 mm. My first assembly came out towards the lower end. I realized that I used 2 of the thinner clutch plates. (see chart below) The clutch kit come with 5 standard plates 2.0mm, (2) thinner plates 1.6mm and (2) heavier plates 2.3mm. I reassembled with 5 standard 2.0mm plate and was at 33.5mm exactly. I then oiled the friction and clutch plates and installed with the R7 pressure plate. Torque Clutch Spring Bolts to 7.4-ft.lbs. Note offset on last friction plate. Clean the mating surfaces and put a new gasket on the clutch cover and reinstall. I found it lined up easy, slide the cover down and wiggle the water pump impeller to make sure it lock onto the drive shaft. Don't sweat the clutch arm alignment if it is off. Mine was slightly off, I just removed the C Clip and rotated the arm a few degrees until the marks lined up and reinstalled the C Clip. Torque clutch cover bolts to 8.9-ft.lbs Refill coolant. Install a new oil filter and oil. Install the clutch cable on the cover, adjust and tighten lock nuts. Then fine adjust at clutch lever to achieve 10mm free play. I think that's pretty much it. Feel free to ask any questions. Ed
  7. 11 points
    Speedometer Scratch Fix – Cheap & Quick – Safe for Plastics By the photo below you can see how badly my speedometer/instrument cluster was scratched. I’ve always tried to clean it with a microfiber towel, but it’s taken it’s beating over 4 years and 30,000km. I wanted to post this because in my search travels I couldn’t find any solution that was detailed for a motorcycle. Hopefully people find this from now on. This combined with the reverse LCD screen made it appear much worse in the sunlight. So, I went to my local hardware store (Canadian Tire) and picked up a container of Maguire’s PLASTX. Other than that, we’ll need an applicator pad and soft cloth. I used some cotton cosmetic pads because they were closest to me. After working the product in until it was almost gone, I let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then wiped off with the cloth. Below is the result. Although not perfect because 2-3 of the deeper scratches couldn’t come out, I’m happy enough. It looks way better and not such a mess. I’ll post some closeup pictures below to further illustrate the effects.
  8. 10 points
    Hey everyone, its been a while since I've posted anything up but wanted to share my updates to the original build I had a couple years ago to my racebike. I changed the tail to the new R7 tail and subframe because I like it much better than the R6 tail that was on it. I also replaced the lower as Sharkskins updated the lower for the FZ-07 so I got the new style. Just got all the bodywork back from the painter today so got it re-installed and ready for graphics and stickers next. Bodywork is as follows: R6 - Upper - Sides - Seat FZ-07 - Tank cover - Lower R7 - Tail CBR 600 - Front fender
  9. 9 points
    Racebike is mostly done for this year. Still need to add numbers and a few other items but its very close. I will be racing it this coming weekend with AHRMA at one of our local tracks in Colorado. Never raced with them before so pretty excited to give their club a try. It will also be the shackdown for my season that starts a few weeks after that round.
  10. 8 points
    Thanks everyone for the responses!! I eventually gave up and took it to the dealership. It confused the hell out of them for awhile too. They contacted some advanced Yamaha techs to look at it and they eventually found the problem. It was the stator. They told me it needed a new stator but I didn't want to pay their prices; almost $1000 for everything lol. I took it home, pulled the stator cover off, and found a short in the wire that runs to the stator. I spliced the wire, soldered it back together, and applied shrink wrap. I then put everything back together and it has run great ever since. Spent $100 for the diagnosis and maybe $10 at most for shrink wrap, wire, etcetera. Hopefully this information can help someone else down the line.
  11. 8 points
    I installed my Flexi-Glass Bodywork this week. The Flexi-Glass is some of the nicest quality glass that I have and worked with. Also Trev is a plaeasure to do business with. I installed the bodywork with Robem's kit which is also great quality and fit. Actually, everything fit the first shot. The only trimming I need to do will be for the frame sliders, I just need to make to cresent shape reliefs in the upper fairing. I used Cam-Loc Series 4000 fasteners to attach the upper and lower fairings. These are adjustable. The base has a threaded insert that can be set to the correct depth and then locked in with a spring clip. This is a nice set up for fiberglass or other composites where the thickness can vary from location to location, Each fastener if the perfect length for each location. There is also a ton of room around my Akra - Ti exhaust. I need to remove my old Woodcraft FZ clip-ons and install my new Woodcraft standard clip-ons. So far I am really pleased with the fit, finish and results. Holes drilled for base and countersunk for rivets. Note the nice wide flange width. for Cam-Loc adjustable base. Insert is threaded. Spring locks into final position in notch. Installed and adjusted Unlatched Cam-Lok fastener with trim ring. How cool are these Cam-Lok Fasteners? I Need to remove old Woodcraft FZ Clip-ons and install the new lower Standard types. Plenty of clearance for the Akra-Ti
  12. 8 points
    Traveled the 4.5 hours to Charleston, SC yesterday for a dyno tune today by Mike Godin at KWS Motorsports. My aRacer Super 2 ECU came with fuel and spark maps intended for a stock motor, and it has a wideband O2 module with autotune capability. The motor currently in my bike has a stock bottom end (crank, rods, and pistons) but the throttle bodies are bored, head is ported (by yours truly), Hordpower intake, and it has a set of mild Webcams ( stock valve springs, so lift is only slightly over stock and duration is longer but not by much). We used the autotune function on the dyno to develop the base fuel map, running steady state and ramps of varying duration and intensity. We then tinkered with the spark advance and the target AFRs, using 100 octane lightly-oxygenated gas, to see if there were any gains to be had. Although not fully familiar with the aRacer software, I was able to fill in enough blanks for Mike on how it works to get a good tune. aRacer uses some of the same nomenclature as other tuning software, but it means different things. Additionally, and most significantly, aRacer is unique in relying primarily on intake air pressure and rpm to determine fuel and spark, rather than on the more typical throttle position and rpm. Nonetheless, Mike has so much experience dyno tuning motorcycles that the entire process was only several hours. Part of the time was due to "someone's" failure to assure that the plug coils were fully jammed onto the spark plugs; so that added a bit of time. There is still some track tuning stuff to do like throttle transitions: fuel level on deceleration (engine breaking, sorta), and acceleration enrichment, and assuring the base fuel map is complete. The ECU has decent memory capacity, with data recording for the important variables, so I can a practice session and then review where changes in fuel might be appropriate. The KWS dyno is known to be a bit "generous", so the resulting power results might be plus a couple horsepower compared to another dyno. Still, for a mild build the power looks respectable. This morning, when the tuning was done, was the beginning of a "high horsepower day". The air was cool (60F degrees) and dry, and the atmospheric pressure was high. The "uncorrected" horsepower was a little over 97. I love these kinds of days!
  13. 8 points
    Hi. I was hoping to build a new bike from scratch for the 2022 season (and I still may in a few months), but in the light of long lead times and parts availability, I decided to rebuild my existing bike, just to make sure that I'll have a bike ready for the start of pre-season. It's a 2017 Yamaha FZ-07, and it's what I rode last year in various club series (CCS, CMRA, CRA, ASRA, FMRRA, WERA). A good bike, but way ready for a rebuild. For 2022, I'm doing a season-entry MotoAmerica Twins cup, as well as some club races here and there. This will be my first season in MotoAmerica. To start, here's some pics of when it was pretty and powerful throughout 2021. (Next post will be a catalogue of its demise...) (A little history: I'm the third owner of this bike. Jim Whitten had it built, then Ryan Max Johnson raced it next. I picked it up at the end of 2020. People loved and recognized this paint scheme , but I'm excited to have one that's distinctively "mine" for 2022...)
  14. 7 points
    It's hard to recommend, when I don't know what your intended use is? I'll tell you what I did, and why. My 2016 FZ-07 was a street bike for several years. Now it is my dedicated race bike. I will list my recommendations in the order I feel they are most important: 1) Get the ECU flashed by 2WDW (They are a site sponsor of this site). The bike will do everything better, even without intake/exhaust mods. They can remove as much of the engine braking possible, and improve the entire riding experience. I've gone through "Nels" @ 2WDW on (4) of my bikes. They can tune it to your liking, and if you add exhaust/intake mods to your bike, they will "re-flash" to accommodate your changes (for FREE). They usually run a Black-Friday special for like $249 2) TIRES!!!! I don't know what tires are on your bike? The OEM sport-touring tires are good for commuting/highway use. They wear well, but are a pretty hard rubber compound. If the current tires are needing replacement, I'd recommend the Dunlop Q3+. They are a dual compound tire- meaning the center of the tire is a harder compound (for long life), and a softer compound on the sides- (for cornering). I've used them for track-days in the past, and they the best bang-for-the-buck tire (in my opinion). You can usually pick up a set for about $350. 3) Suspension- I've wasted a lot of money on PREMIUM suspension in the past . Contrary to what most people think, you most likely do NOT need every adjustment available (unless you are racing at the pro level). Most people don't know how to set-up a suspension properly (myself included) ... My "race" FZ-07 has the suspension that most street riders chose. My lap times are within a second or two of the folks that $pent 2-3 times what I did. -In the front: I recommend the "Traction Dynamics AR-25 kit". This gets you to 95% of what a "full cartridge kit" will get you- at half the cost... You fill out a form, and explain your riding style, and your weight, and they handle the rest!!! Everything comes on one complete kit- (oil, proper fork springs, and the proper valving in the action-rod), you drop it in, and go!!! My personal opinion is- this the best option for a budget bike like the FZ/MT-07. The kit runs about $400- -In the rear: I'd go with the K-Tech "Lite". It's their "entry level" rear shock. I personally run the K-tech Razor "R" on my 07. It has the remote reservoir, and much more adjustment options. That being said, I run the K-Tech "lite" on my street R3. Once I got it set up to my liking, it felt nearly the same as my Razor "R" on my "07". You can pick up a new K-Tech "Lite" for about $495 (set-up for your weight). 4) Exhaust & Intake: This where most folks start .... I personally disagree with this approach. Most motorcycle enthusiasts do NOT want their bike to sound like sewing machine (myself included). Yeah, you can toss a full exhaust system on most bikes, and the EFI system can most likely compensate for it. With that, you most likely won't be gaining anything (and may actually LOSE HP/performance). This gives the rider the "illusion" of HP, since it sounds cool.... Intake & Exhaust go hand-in-hand. Do both at the same time, or don't do it at all.... Exhaust: I personally chose the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. It's pretty quiet with the insert in (compared to it competitors). You can remove the insert for more "bark" if you like. It carries a price tag of about $1K.... I agonized over this, as I didn't want the spend that kind of money. I justified the purchase, as the ENTIRE system is underneath the motor (no side pipe). One right hand "drop" in a parking lot will wreck every other exhaust system. My advise, is spend the money, and smile . Intake: The "Hordpower" intake system is the BEST $300 I've ever spent!!! You get a totally new intake system (2WDW can tune it to match ANY exhaust system). This will take your "07" from not making power after 8K, rpm, to pulling HARD all the way to redline!!! As stated earlier, the exhaust/intake mods should be the LAST mods to make (in my opinion). All of the above mentioned items should be done BEFORE intake/exhaust. As much as I hate to acknowledge it, the FZ/MT-07 was built to a price-point... The stock motor is plenty for most folks. The chassis is the weakest-link on this bike for most riders. The above post is based ONLY on opinions (mine). I'm not an expert, but I wanted to share my experiences with others. Hopefully my experiences can save others the costly mistakes I've made over the last 40+ years Sorry for the "Novel", but the question WAS asked -
  15. 7 points
    Here is the good stuff searchin about how to replace a clutch written up by some of the best folks on this site, @mossrider, @shinyribs, @Cruizin, and bunch more of the good folks, spread out across different threads. Read all the threads that come back from this search (by clicking my hyperlink "searchin" above) if you are unsure about clutch change. I'll toss in a few ideas that might help as well, but read everybody else explaining first, then consider this... (1) There is a trick to getting the clutch arm (that the clutch cable pulls directly on at the clutch cover) in the right position so that the stamp on the arm aligns with the stamp on the clutch cover/right case cover. So try this, when you are first full of pizz an vinegar to put your new clutch in, stop as soon as you pull the clutch cover off, and try to put in back on with clutch arm in the right position. You won't get it right, but keep trying, do it 5 or 6 times until you can do it right, before going any further with the maintenance. Your brain will remember how to get it bake on, when you need it, if you practice till you get it right up front. (2) You might just want to order 1 x Yamaha 93306-00105, it's the bearing that the clutch pull rod pulls on to relieve the pressure plate pushing on the clutch stack when you pull the clutch lever. Check your bearing when you take off the pressure plate. If any doubt, replace that bearing. EDIT - Get a new water pump O-Ring 1 x 1WS-12439-00-00 , because yes. (3) On metal plates, it's "sharp edge out". If you check the outside diameter of each metal clutch plate, they have a "sharp" and a "round" outside edge (stamped part). Put the metal plates on the clutch stack with the "sharp edge" OUT. Yes you can find people arguing about in/out on metal plates online, but look at your own notes you took when you were pulling each plate off the stack one at a time and "building" a pile of the old plates in the order they came off ( you did make some notes on each pad you took off, right? ) Little things like what "tower opening" gets the plate tab when the new clutch plates get put on - and was the sharp edge IN or OUT. (4) Starting with the first fiber plate you put on, make sure all the plates with tab projections get a plate tab in the "tower opening" directly below the little stamped triangle on the clutch hub until you get to the last fiber plate to go on the stack - the last fiber plate, it gets clocked - so read on to (5) below. (5) The red circle is around the last fiber plate on the stack, just after I put it on. Notice that if you've done everything groovy prior to this last plate, you will have placed every plate prior to the last plate, with it's plate projection tab in the "tower opening" under that stamped triangle on the hub in the pic below. BUT put the last plate in the stack, (one of the two special fiber plates) with it's plate projection tab clocked "one tower notch back" in the "tower opening" circled in RED below - NOT in the triangle "tower opening" (far right in pic) where all the previous plate projection tabs have gone (obviously I don't know what to call the "tabs" on the fiber plates with tabs) (6) You can save some grief with the clutch case cover gasket moving while you're fanagling that clutch cable lever with the pull rod, by picking up some Pematex "High Tack" gasket sealer, and goop one side of the gasket then stick it on (your choice, either the engine case side or on the clutch cover you pulled off). I went against common wisdom and put the Permatex goop on the clutch cover side of the gasket, because the next time I pull this cover off there will be very little gasket sticking to the engine case (no goop), but more on the clutch cover - and because you can take the cover over to your work bench and clean it while you're sitting down rocking out to Devo (you know that hit "don't stick, don't stick, don't stick that gasket to me" - wait, maybe that was Sting, but what ever it's still advice. That's all I got, my bike is built the way I want it, and I already published my good stuff on this site, all I got time for now is to RIDEBABY
  16. 7 points
    Para racer here checking in. For 2022 the WERA team 4 Dudes on a Twin and The Bike Experience USA have partnered together to put together an all para endurance racing team to run the N2/WERA National Series. I'll then run my FZ07 in the sprint races on Sunday. Looks like 2022 will be an exciting year. Series kicks off in June at CMP. Pretty stoked about it all. Pic from NCM last October for shameless attention LOL. Cheers, Joe
  17. 7 points
    I finally got to the track and had the chance to test the new slipper clutch. It works flawlessly. Worth every penny. A quick video of a lap. Ed
  18. 7 points
    Yoshimura is building a YZF-R7, and we’re going to race it - RevZilla Yoshimura R&D is building a Yamaha YZF-R7 race bike, and RevZilla is going to ride it. We tag along as the bike is tested and developed. This doesn't have the import it would have had several years ago, before Yoshimura disbanded its race team. Still, it will be interesting to see what, if anything, they come up with that is different or better. After all, folks have been racing the basic platform for several years now and a lot is known about making the motor live and develop horsepower, and the chassis handle.
  19. 7 points
    Here are my pictures and notes for the installation of the R7 Slipper Clutch. PART ONE - REMOVAL Drain the oil and coolant. Then remove the water pump. I tied mine to the header pipes with a small bungee to keep it out of my way. Notes: Be careful with the pump o-ring. Mine was securely in place so I just left it alone. Also my coolant has only 3K miles, so I drained it into a clean container to reuse it. Remove the Clutch Cover Note that the last friction plate is offset one notch from the rest of the stack. The R7 Slipper will also have the last friction plate offset like this. Pressure Plate, springs and clutch plates removed. lift the locking dimple on the nut for the clutch boss. Remove the boss nut, I used an impact gun. Otherwise you need a clutch holding tool, or place the trans in 6th gear and hold down on the rear brake to loosen the nut. Remove beveled washer, note the side that has OUT stamped on it, faces you. Remove second washer and then the clutch boss. Make sure to remove the spacer from the rear of the clutch boss, it will most likely stick to the back of the clutch boss when removed. Ed
  20. 7 points
    Still have my FZ07 of course. I sold my Ninja 250 and Royal Enfield Himalayan to buy the CRF250 rally and so far I'm more than impressed and having a great time! Sorry for the long absence, been a lot going on in my little world.
  21. 6 points
  22. 6 points
    -->Part 2 Disclaimer - all my mods will kill you and cause athletes foot fungus Here's the deal - nobody can do as good of a job adjusting the valves on your bike than you can. Nobody. Just do it. All of us here will help you. Essential Knowledge Crank Chart Stone Cold Motor - for adjusting valve clearance Intake Valve Clearance - 0.11mm - 0.20mm Exhaust Valve Clearance - 0.24mm - 0.30mm Double Overhead Cams Sketch. The first sketch on left shows the typical operation of the engine - double overhead cams being turned by sprocket/chain on the crankshaft and tensioned by the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT), rotating in the direction of the arrow - this is the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). In the second sketch, the CCT has been removed and the slack in the chain could allow the chain to slip off the crank sprocket. The engine is put back in time during reassembly, using the timing marks on the two cams and the rotor timing marks (third and fourth sketch). rotor timing marks About feeler gauges - don't force. The right size will slide between gap with the same drag as pulling a piece of paper out from under a magazine. Hold the feeler gauge between thumb and forefinger. Don't let the feeler gauge touch the engine case. Use two feeler gauge blades together for cam clearance measures - single blade can give a false sense of resistance because the angle of cam measures. Get blades a little oily. Example -to measure minimum 0.24mm exhaust valve clearance, use 0.15mm & 0.09mm blades together. Prerequisites: Order Yamaha OEM Service Manual for your bike year/model MT-07, FZ-07, XSR700, Tenere700, any with CP2 motor. Undress your bike for the job – pull the fuel tank panels and fuel tank. TAKE A PICTURE of everything under the tank on both sides once tank is off, before you start removing/moving things to get access to the engine top end. Remove the radiator (drain first), clutch cable guide, coils, spark plugs, cylinder head cover. Put 2 zip-ties around the cylinder #2 Coil On Plug (COP) spark lead wire so you know which is what at reassembly time. AND PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. Key Parts & Tools, if you go all the way Yamaha OEM - Highly Recommended 1 x Yamaha Shop Manual, for your bike model 1 x 1WS-11193-01-00 HEAD COVER GASKET 1 x 1WS-12213-00-00 TENSIONER CASE GASKET Nice To Have 1 x 93210-357A3-00 O-RING Crankcase access cover seal 1 x 90430-08143-00 GASKET, Crankcase cover timing marks bolt gasket 2 x LMA-R8A9S-00-00 SPARK PLUG LMAR8A9S 1 x 5SL-12214-00-00 GASKET Tensioner special tool access bolt gasket Tools (All Highly Recommended) 1 x Mfg Part# FG-02-032 TUSK Feeler gauges 1 x Mfg Part# 08-0652 Motion Pro magnetic pickup 1 x Mfg Part# CMMT98348 Craftsman powerful magnetic pickup for buckets 1 x Mfg Part# 201872 Anytime Tools micrometer Supplies Permatex "High Tack" gasket sealant - keeps the valve cover gasket in the valve cover while you struggle getting it back on. Red Line Assembly Lube - yes because it's red, and you can see that you have used too much, or none at all, because it's red. Measuring Cylinder #1 Valve Clearances This is the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side). Remove the crankshaft cover and the timing mark access bolt. Only rotate the engine counter-clockwise. Refer to the first row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 0" Use a 19mm socket wrench on the crankshaft end nut exposed by removing the crankshaft cover. Rotate slowly the crankshaft counter-clockwise, while looking thru the timing mark bolt opening, and align the rotor timing marks (RED timing mark for clarity). Cylinder #1 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE". If cam lobes are not facing opposite, rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the rotor timing marks align again. And repeat the check of cylinder #1 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE". This is the position for measuring cylinder #1 valve clearance (cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke). Here is the "callout" I will refer to below. Measure cylinder #1 exhaust valves - check the minimum spec of 0.24mm using the 0.15mm & 0.09mm blades together. Continue measuring until satisfied with a good clearance measure, record results on paper for "Exhaust.C1.V1" & "Exhaust.C1.V2" (the two exhaust valves clearance measures). Repeat for the two intake valves "Intake.C1.V3" & "Intake.C1.V4". On paper, be sure it is clear which valve clearance measure is which - draw a diagram that makes it clear. FYI the red in photos is assembly lube - the cams have been in and out multiple times during picture taking. Measuring Cylinder #2 Valve Clearances Refer to the second row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 270". Make a degree wheel, and cut a hole to fit it onto wrench with the 19mm socket used to turn the crankshaft... Setup a pointer, to measure the rotation to 270 degrees... ...and rotate the crank counter-clockwise 270 degrees, the required position for measuring cylinder #2 valves clearances. Cylinder #2 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE" (cylinder #2 TDC compression stroke). Measure cylinder #2 clearance with the same procedure as used on cylinder #1 measures, and record measures for cylinder #2 exhaust "Exhaust.C2.V5" & "Exhaust.C2.V6" and intake "Intake.C2.V7" & "Intake.C2.V8". If any valve clearances measures are out of Yamaha specification, continue with the removal of cams and the swapping of new shims into position under the cam lobe buckets described in Part 2.
  23. 6 points
    Got the motor remounted a few hours ago with the help of my cousin, and was able to install the new titanium mounts. I must say, they fit nicely!! Super stoked on how it looks with the motor in place
  24. 6 points
    Long overdue update! I couldn’t for the life of me find any aftermarket motor mounts outside of the whack ones for sale on Alibaba. So wanting something cool and original (and not to mention lighter than OEM), I ordered a .269”x 6”x 10.52” plate of CP2 titanium. I came up with a sketch, took it, the OEM mounts, and the plate of titanium to a local sheet metal shop and had them cut the new mounts out on their water jet, bend them, and throw them in a tumbler for a bit to knock the edges off. One of the mounts had a slight blemish in one in one of the relief cuts from the water jet, but for the time being I’m going to use these and re-mount the motor to see what it looks like. I’m going to hit them with a sander using a few different grits to get rid of the fabrication marks before final install. It’s probably a little overkill using .269 thick Ti, but they are still lighter than the OEM mounts, and are much more appealing. Overall I’m happy with them, hopefully there aren’t any issues mounting the motor
  25. 6 points
    No one appears to market a lightweight rear disc for the stock 07 rear wheel. For those of us who ride exclusively on race tracks, the stock rear disc is a lot beefier and heavier than necessary. I recently learned that Norton Motorsports sells a significantly lightened rear disc for the R7. https://www.norton-motorsports.com/product/norton-racing-lightweight-rear-brake-rotor-yamaha-r7/ Upon inquiry, Norton doesn't know if they fit an 07. It should fit; I hope it fits. I've read the wheels are the same dimensionally, and I know the rear caliper and caliper mount are the same on both the R7 and the 07. The distance between mounting bolt centers is the same. I've ordered two, one for each rear wheel I use with slicks. I have rain tires on a third set of wheels but extra weight on a wheel is the least of my challenges when trying to ride fast in the rain. If they don't fit, I might have to get an R7 to put them on. I wonder if my wife will notice? I'll post again once they show up and I return from this weekend at NC Bike.
  26. 6 points
    Heres a couple pictures from Round 2 of our season at PPIR. As pretty as it is I do still race it and my old ass has managed to put in on the podium 4 times so far. 3 wins and a 3rd so far this year. Pretty Happy with how my season is starting off so far!
  27. 6 points
    Today I received my two lightened rear rotors from Norton Motorsports. I can confirm that they fit the FZ/MT 07 rear wheel. They are the same diameter and, for what it is worth, about .002" thicker, which means they'll fit with no modification to anything. The stock disc I removed weighs 2lb, 1.75ounces; the Norton disc weighs 1lb, 2 7/8 ounces. Removing rotating weight is "free torque" because before the motor can accelerate the bike, it needs to accelerate the drive train and rear wheel assembly. I let Norton know they fit so they may now start to market them for 07s. One thing to be aware of. There is Loctite on the stock socket head bolts so you're going to need something beyond a wimpy allen wrench to remove them and, be careful not to booger the socket in the bolts or you'll be ordering new ones from Yamaha. I will not be reinstalling the bolts with Loctite. I'll just mark them with an oil-based marker and visually check them regularly (race bike so I check lots of things regularly).
  28. 6 points
    Not sure where you're hearing about tank slap for this bike, but from my personal experience, and from what I've read here in the forum, it's not a thing for a properly maintained FZ/MT-07. Unless you're riding on the bleeding edge of the handling of this bike on a track you shouldn't need a steering damper.
  29. 6 points
    You are correct. That's exactly what it is. Thanks for clearing that up, as soon as I saw your reply I went and checked what tools I had been using that day and it was needle nose pliers.
  30. 6 points
    i think its the inside bit of a pair of pliers or snippers.
  31. 5 points
    It's that time of year again! Experience your bike with proper custom mapping for your SPECIFIC intake/exhaust combination. Check out 2WDW.com to take advantage of our sale NOW! All ECU Flashing is an ADDITIONAL 15% OFF starting NOW through Cyber Monday. Once purchased, there is NO TIME LIMIT on when you have to send in your ECU. Ship it to us at your convenience, stress free, and we'll get it flashed and shipped back out the SAME DAY that we receive it! If you have any questions, check out the link below or email us at support@2wheeldynoworks.com. We are ALWAYS happy to help with your ECU flashing, dyno tuning and performance needs.
  32. 5 points
    Almost 50 years of bikes, and only time I lean as far as you guys, it was that time I got my shoelace caught in the shift lever at a stoplight
  33. 5 points
    Right on CSlider! You the naked bike man, and that makes it the best look'in on the start grid. Go like hell but don't ride outside of what you practice - you already won And you! Mossrider! ---- Well, you are a jack of all moto angles with advice tailored for who you give it too, just when they need it the most. You're words & person are missed around here ....
  34. 5 points
    I was at Lima Ohio for the RPM regional half mile. Estensen Racing was there with Dallas Daniels and JD Beach on their Yamaha twins and Trevor Brunner on the 450. Bronson Bauman was there on his Latus Harley Davidson. Turner Racing was there with the 450 Honda ridden by Morgan Mishler, as was the KTM team with Max Whale and Kody Kopp. Daniels was just plain flying pulling almost a half lap lead on JD. Totally awesome. Track was fabulous in spite of being a marsh after a 3:00 pm rain. The track came back after some dragging and grading off the layer of mush. It was a great cushion track with multiple lines possible. I don't know if anyone here is a flat track fan, I hope so. Part of the reason I got a Yamaha 700 was because they were racing it both in flat track and the Moto America twins cup. Kinda nice to see what we're riding being raced and in the hunt. The AFT racing comes to Lima in June.
  35. 5 points
    I got ya covered Dave. Glasss repair is fairly easy. First clean the inside and outside of the repair area with wax and grease remover You will start your repairs on the back side. Remove any loose pieces and grind around the repair area approximately 1-in on all sides. Go to the front side and remove any loose pieces and try to realign the shape of the part. Put a layer of metal duct tape over the damaged areas to hold them in place and to maintain the shape. The metal tape tape does a good job of holding a shape. Cut a layer or 2 of fiberglass cloth the shape of the damaged area, the cloth should also be approximately an inch larger than the damage. Mix up an ounce or two of the resin with hardener. Lay the first layer of cloth over the hole. Pour a little of the resin on the cloth and carefully brush it into the cloth. I use acid brushes for this. As you wet the cloth it will turn from white to translucent. Use the brush to dab downwards on any air bubbles to work them out. You want a uniform appearance without any bubbles. Don't over work it,once it looks good, leave it alone. Let the resin cure, this takes approximately 15-20 Minutes. You can add a second layer with the same steps as before if you choose to, usually one layer is adequate. After it cures you can carefully peel off the aluminum tape on the front side. Grind around the edges of the repair area, at least an inch, and then apply body filler. You can use fiberglass reinforced filler like dura glass for additional strength as your first layer or just use regular body filler to fill, shape and smooth. I use 80 grit for initial sanding and shaping, followed by 180 grit to smooth and feather. You can then sand again with 320 grit and prime. Here are some pics of products and a modification I made to Dylan's belly pan to clear the header pipes. Again, I used the aluminum tape to form the shape, applied glass coth and resin on the back side and then finished the front with dura glass and then regular filler. Let me know if you have any questions. Ed
  36. 5 points
    Thanks for making me feel old .
  37. 5 points
  38. 5 points
    Just here to say that I was 290 lbs 4 years ago and that was one of the reasons I didn't ride a motorcycle...I had a hard enough time just doing up my shoes. I am now under 160 lbs and can say my quality of life is so much better. Not gonna sugar coat it though...it is tough and required a complete change or lifestyle. If you want it, you can do it, it is never too late.
  39. 5 points
    Hey JB, welcome to the forum. Thank you for sharing your pictures. It looks like the bottom and right side of your Akra hits the belly pan. YourAkra can looks thicker than the original all Ti Akra,( it could be the angle of the pictures ) There may be less interference with our Akra pipes, but some clearancing / glass mods will be necessary. I love the sound and performance of my Akra, also it is tucked in nicely and hasnt touched the ground in a crash. I intend to keep it and make it work. Ed
  40. 5 points
    Got some work done today. All my photos haven't come through for some reason but I can add them in later if you guys want to see them. I'm lucky to have access to a Computrack machine so as with all my bikes one of the first things I do is measure the bike to see where I'm starting. Was a little surprised with my results but happy with the geometry of the bike for its intended purpose. Today was fork day. Some of these photos haven't come through email yet so I can add them later. So off come the forks. Getting ready for their cleaning. This is what is inside a damper rod fork if you haven't seen before. It's a pretty simple system. Legs in the lathe to get the hydraulic lock removed. This is what is cut out and the result. After they are cleaned this is what I kept This is what goes into the bin. Not pictured are the springs. We decided to go with Andreani cartridges. They are a straight drop in but pretty close. Their kit comes complete with springs. This is where some of the shots are somewhere out there still. We had to put the inner tubes into the lathe and cut out the hydraulic lockout out of the bottom. Once that is done the reassembly can start. The main fork body goes together the same way it came apart. After that the cartridges can go in. Need to pay a little attention here since one side is compression and the other rebound with marked caps. Everything is included in the kit With the cartridges installed I now pour in the oil, bleed the cartridge and set the air gap. Next is the springs are put in with the spacer followed by the caps. New springs vs the stock spring. I thought I got a photo of the forks back on the bike but I missed that. Looks pretty much the same except for the fork cap:) A couple things I found annoying on this bike is the mess of hoses and wires for the brakes and speed sensor and then the fun red locktite they used for the fender bolts. Ended up beating up one of the bolt head pretty good in the process. Guess I'll have to by some Ti bolts after all.
  41. 4 points
    When I was a kid I used to watch my Dad thin black paint, oil based of course, with brake fluid and brush it on to his tires. They weren't shiny, they looked new. Surprisingly, it would last a really long time and would wash clean like any other painted surface. When they would start peeling a carwash wand would knock out loose and you could start over. I still like to paint tires to a degree. Growing up, you weren't cool unless you had white letters. I still don't like plain tires. Apologies for posting a pic of the mongrel version
  42. 4 points
    Hey wait, WHAT? Are you telling me I can live without Tock Tic or MyFaceSpace, seems like a heretic LOL
  43. 4 points
  44. 4 points
    To each their own. I don't mean that in a flippant way. We all just enjoy different things and that's cool. Dave promotes and pushes ( WITH the help of his buddy) his suspension guru status. But he doesn't offer any suspension improvement services. Why would a suspension guru be unable to offer suspension work? Who here has sent forks to Dave for revalving? Has he rebuilt your shock? Did he take your info and help you order the correct spring rates from him? Show of hands? He offers no services other than pay to listen to him talk. Nobody that truly appreciates and understand suspension would recommend OEM FZ 07 shocks. He blew his credibility out of the water for me right then. That proves that he's either willing to make "fatal flaw" videos about a bike he's never ridden, or he simply just doesn't know what he's talking about. Ktech, Stoltec, Ohlins and others can fix your suspension and answer legitimate questions. Dave will bounce your forks in the parking lot, send you home to cut spacers and ask for $20. All while talking fast and moving around quickly to appear busy actually doing something. But that's just my perspective. To each their own.
  45. 4 points
    To be fair to Dave, the stock suspension has changed in significant respects for the better since Dave did his video. As for who to trust, I've watched many of Dave's videos (including many behind his pay wall) and while I don't take all of them at face value, I've found his approach to understanding tires and suspension to be useful. Having said that, I've been riding sport bikes for over 40 years, and building and racing bikes for on and off over 25 years. I've also read and studied a lot, including books on motorcycle engineering, and ICE theory and practice. I know there are other regular contributors to these pages with equal or greater experience and understanding. While this site was shutdown, I joined a few groups on FB related to the FZ/MT 07 and the new R7. I'll grant you, the level of ignorance and misinformation among those groups was most impressive. Here, however, there is a lot of good information and advice to be had.
  46. 4 points
    I've turned several thousand track miles on my "07", and not once did I have any stability issues? Like @shinyribs mentioned..... It can't hurt, but seems like a waste of financial resources-
  47. 4 points
    Hey guys, thanks for the reply, maybe I try to ride the bike for sometime and decide to install the damper later.
  48. 4 points
    Heart Transplant: I picked up this original AP built FZ07 last week, and it will become my back-up / second bike. Because my superbike build is still not ready, we swapped this engine and put it in to my "A" bike chassis. The AP bike was a great find, with 568 original miles, and an engine that was recently dyno'd at 93hp on pump gas. It was never raced and just had a few track days on it from a casual rider. I'm swapping out some parts and components to make it as identical as possible to the "A" bike. (I'll likely have some parts for sale on here from it.) Once the SB engine being built is ready, I'll keep it as a back up and bring this AP bike as a "rolling chassis" for spares and such for MotoA. (They don't allow a full second bike, at least in Twins, which I think is a silly rule, because it just increases one's labor costs, instead of decreasing overall costs. To me, it's much easier, and even cheaper, to just be allowed to have a second bike...) Bones: Between the bike and I, sprung weight is down ~17 lbs. Both front and rear suspension were on the stiff side last year, anyway, so we've dropped the front from .95 to .925 (.9 in the left fork; .95 in the right). Rear shock went to a 625 lb. from a 675. I have the Robem rear linkage. The rear spring rate range is really big on this bike, depending on what linkage it has. The AP bike I just bought has a AP linkage, and you can tell it's a lot less "long," i.e., has a lot less leverage being applied on the spring, and has a 600 lb. spring. Other: Put some engine covers on the new engine. Put an R7 throttle cable on, which is about .8" shorter than the FZ cable, but it's still too long with this body kit, the way that I have things set up. It will work safely, but is partially blocking the view of my instrument cluster. I'm working with Motion Pro to get a custom one. Going with FZ length -3". 4-cell Antigravity battery cranked the stock engine just fine. With this higher compression SB engine, it struggles, so I put in an 8 cell, which is .5 lbs heavier. That's ok. Geared 16/45; prepped for Atlanta. Actually weighed Flexiglass total set versus this Sharkskinz / AP set. The Flexiglass is .4 lbs. lighter.
  49. 4 points
    Mine just arrived.. took almost 6 days from Tokyo to my house directly.. Now waiting for clutch plate which I have order from my local dealer.
  50. 4 points
    Picked up a lightweight subframe from Robem Engineering. My existing subframe was bent, so let's do it. It's a 4.7 lbs weight savings from stock. I think I saw that other people thought that it was closer to 6.6 lbs savings, but that must not be including the mounting hardware, which is like 1.5 lbs. Still, 4.7 lbs savings up top -- I'll take it. (The old subframe was 7.6 lbs.; the new one, with hardware, was 2.9 lbs. See pics; but note, scale is in pounds and ounces...) Paul and I (let's be honest, mostly Paul from Motospace) followed the instructions from Robem, and things turned out great. Excellent product, and excellent instructions. I think that we're going to blast off the black anodizing and clearcoat the natural aluminum.
This leaderboard is set to Denver/GMT-07:00

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.