Jump to content

Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/16/2021 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    Top speed doesn't much matter overall, until you're in playing with the Advanced group anyway. I've done 25+ trackdays on a KTM 690 Duke and loved it lots. It rides in many ways like an MT07, a bit weavy, a bit loose and a lot of fun. The fastest track i regularly go to is Silverstone GP, which is crazy fast, but it's just more of a challenge to try and outbrake the bigger bikes that have just passed you, hang onto them and stuff them into the corners... it's all part of the fun for me. I've tracked just about everything from R1s to GSXRs, Ducati race bikes, big 1000s and smaller capacity bikes.. they're all fun, just in different ways.
  2. 2 points
    the crg arrow mirrors that i bought are heavenly. totally worth the price, although they may actually make themselves redundant lol - i rarely use my left mirror since i can see whats in my left lane in my right mirror. ive actually been thinking of pulling it off and going with just 1 mirror since thats legal where im at. if anyone does decide to grab the crg mirrors, i highly recommend biohazardcycles - theyve been consistently 20% cheaper, from my akra ti exhaust to antigravity battery to ft ecu to crg mirrors and levers. link for pair of mirrors - CRG AO-100 ARROW BAR END MIRRORS PAIR 2 MIRRORS CRG AO-100 ARROW BAR END MIRRORS PAIR 2 MIRRORS
  3. 2 points
    I complete agree with this diagnosis. When i first got my MT07, the shifter placement was rather low. I have some big shoes and it was difficult to fully release the shifter between shifts. If the shifter wasnt fully released between shifts, it would act exactly as you described. I have since adjust the shifter placement to a much high position and basically eliminated the issue. Exaggerated toe pointing does help to build that muscle memory of making sure the shifter is released.
  4. 2 points
    Excellent condition Regular oil and filter changes Brakes bled this season Stored indoors No rain rides Asking $6,500 CAD or best offer Extras: 2WDW ECU Flash Akrapovic Ti w/ Carbon tip exhaust CRC RC2 adjustable shorty levers Yoshimura fender eliminator LED headlight LED Auxiliary lights Yamaha Fly Screen Yamaha heated grips Renthal Ultra Low Bar R6 throttle tube CNC mirrors w/ extenders Evotech radiator guard Spaced out instrument gauge by 20mm TST integrated tail light TST MECH-GTR LED front turn signals TST flasher relay Wheel stickers Chinese radiator coolant guard Located in Kemble, Ontario
  5. 2 points
    I dunno. Rossi is retiring. There’s an open seat. Paul is secretive and selling his sweet FZ. You guys figure it out. I’ve drawn my own conclusions Paul, good luck with whatever you have going on. Ed
  6. 2 points
    Went for a quick ride today and all is good so far. Bike tracked perfectly with hands off the bars at 70 mph. The bike feels just as nimble with 7 inches added to the swingarm. I deleted the rear ABS. It was just easier since I needed a longer line. The stock shock is on until the custom valved Penske comes in. Probably another week.
  7. 1 point
    I had to get the one on my Suzuki fixed, as new one was like $500 and none on e-bay. I called below company and mailed it to them (extremely carefully packed), they repaired and sent back quickly. It was about $170 total with shipping. Good people. https://www.motorcycleradiators.com/
  8. 1 point
    Thanks for the recommendation. I may go to those at some point. It's probably better to leave both mirrors on. Aim the right one so it covers from directly behind you to far right, and aim the left one so it covers directly behind you to far to the left. You'll minimize the two blind spots that way. Anything that helps you know what's around you is important.
  9. 1 point
    The 07 is an inexpensive bike with relatively unsophisticated components, especially the forks and shock. I suggest you ride the bike for a while and experience for yourself whether the suspension meets your needs. If it does, great, spend money on other things. If it doesn't meet your needs, you should be able to identify how it doesn't meet your needs and then you should consider what can be done. Without knowing how you ride, where you ride, and what you weigh, no one can say whether you want or need to reduce fork preload, and to increase both fork compression and rebound damping (Moss's mods). As for brake pads, the stock pads are fine even for spirited track riding (won't overheat and work well when cold) but they are linear in feel and lack the initial bite of many after-market pads. If you like an aggressive initial bite, you'll want to change pads but I'd go to steel-braided brake lines first because the feel with rubber lines isn't great, irrespective of pads.
  10. 1 point
    Depends for what... i've got a 21 and test rode a 21 before i bought it. There's nothing wrong with the forks at all for day to day use, they work fine. I'm not even convinced the rear is as bad as some think, but i don't mind a bit of movement in the bike personally. Mates have ridden stock MT07s on track and gone well in higher groups. I've not tracked mine yet, but it's only a matter of waiting till summer.
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for everyone's input.
  12. 1 point
    Probably help a lot if location was posted - the country. I kind of doubt they will want to ship international for $5.
  13. 1 point
    I think he's just clarifying that he priced the items according to 1/2 their price new + $5 for shipping to come to his "shipped" price, not that he's adding $5 to the listed shipped price.
  14. 1 point
    2016 FZ07 LWT Superbike Race Package - MotoAmerica Legal 4908 miles - Only ridden to church on Sundays by a slow old guy . Oil and filter changed every 50 - 200 miles (have log). Bike will Come with fresh oil and filter. (TWF) Mild Superbike Build for Reliability Ported Head, Web Cams, Wiseco Pistons, Bored Throttle Bodies, Velocity Stacks (Attack Performance Tuned) Comes with all maps 91 Pump= 82.59 HP - 48.91 TQ VP MGP= 83.73 HP - 49.54 TQ VP T4= 85.45 HP - 50.69 TQ VP MR12= 87.24 - 51.64 TQ Bazzaz Zfi-TC with Quickshifter, TC dial and Map switch (New Bazzaz unit with 2 races) Never used Traction control but its there. Traxxion AK20's Front .95 Penske 8983 Rear Robem Engineering Triple Tree setup with aluminum stem and 26mm offset spaces (2 races) Robem Engineering Rear Linkage (2 Races) - Matt helped tremendously with his time on this setup front and rear and its dialed. I have the geometry numbers. Graves Titanium Full Exhaust Woodcraft Key eliminator Woodcraft Frame sliders Woodcraft Rear Sets Woodcraft Clip Ons Woodcraft Case Savers Woodcraft Shark Fin Woodcraft Lever Protector AP Moto Bodywork AP Moto Fairing Stay AP Moto Adjustable Rear Set Plates MotoAmerica Approved Airbox Shroud (removable for club racing) CRG RC2 Levers Motion Pro Rev2 Throttle Tube Style Fork Mounted damper Galfer Front GP Lines Galfer Pads Cox Radiator Protector Shorai Battery (TWF) Captive wheel spacers Front and Rear (TWF) Regulator Relocate Bracket (TWF) ECU Relocate Bracket Driven Racing Halo Quick Release Fuel Cap Driven Racing 520 16T Front sprocket Driven Racing 520 44T Rear sprocket RK 520 Chain Dunlop Slick Front (1 Race) Ultra Soft 0516 Dunlop Slick Rear (1 Race) Ultra Soft 0197 1.8 Radiator Cap Uni-Filter Pod Filters NGK SILMAR 9B9 Plugs SPARES: Stock motor (ebay) Pair of Wheels OEM blue with Dunlop Extra Soft Rubber with 2 sessions, Straight Rotors, Cush Drive, Sprocket Carrier, Bearings and (TWF) Spacers New In Box Graves Exhaust Can New In Box R&G engine Case Covers (2) Fresh Cleaned and Flow Tested Injectors New In Package Woodcraft Rear Set kit, New Woodcraft Foot pegs (2) New In Box (4) NGK Laser Iridium Plugs SILMAR 9B9, (2) used SILMAR 9B9, (2) used LMAR 8A9 New In Package Woodcraft Frame Sliders New In Box (2) Pair Galfer 1375 pads New In Package HT Moto Seat Pad New In Box Driven Racing 520 Sprockets 44T, 46T, 17T - Used but in good working condition 43T and 45T Bazzaz QS FT-ECU QS Superlite Tek5 520 45T Sprocket Vortex 15T Sprocket OEM 43T sprocket and Sunstar 44T and 45T steel New in Box Oil Filter Windscreen Wire Mesh Velocity Stack Screens New Aftermarket 1.6 Radiator Cap and OEM radiator Cap Radiator in Good working condition (TWF) Crankcase Breather Aluminum Catch Can setup for club racing (TWF) Reg and ECU Relocate brackets Motion Pro Rev2 Throttle Cams New OEM clutch and brake levers Various OEM parts $10,000 Aaron - Located near Fresno, Ca 55 nine - two 0 three -497 six
  15. 1 point
    Very tastefully done!!! GLWS-
  16. 1 point
    Very motivated to sell the whole package. Shoot me an offer. $10,000 OBO OR $6500 Bike goes as is NO spares OR its gonna start getting parted out. Ill be racing it next weekend if it doesnt sell first. Still running strong. The mileage has gone up a 1000 miles as ive been racing it this year. Will consider trades for a well setup DTX with cash.
  17. 1 point
    Luimoto Seat Cover & Gel Inserts! With the Luimoto Tank Leafs as well, on both rider and passenger! I had my wife do it for me, and as you can see they came out flawless!
  18. 1 point
    I raced cars for many, many years. I never was the fastest guy on the track, but I had a helluva lot of fun. If you want to do it because you think you will enjoy it, just go run. If you're doing it to be the baddest guy out there, save your time, money and health. It's not worth it just to be a hero to someone that doesn't even know who you are.
  19. 1 point
    Painted the swingarm with bright red Klass Kote epoxy paint. Came out good for being an amateur painter. The stock caliper bracket is modified for a lower torque rod.
  20. 1 point
    I finished the bellcrank bracket. I have a Penske double adjustable on order. It will be valved for street/strip use. Penske and M2 shocks are the two big names in drag racing. M2 is mostly drag racing and while assembled in the U.S., uses Nitron parts. So they are "Nitron" drag shocks, pretty cool. I went with Penske simply because they are familiar with XSR700 packaging. M2 mostly does the popular drag bikes.
  21. 1 point
    THIS^^^ Dave says so many things to contradict himself that I can't figure out why his comments are regarded as gospel. The forks are basic, but they are fine. There is NO dangerous damping activity at all. I have tried running different grades of fork oil from 5w to 15w and everything in between. All the thicker oil gives you is harshness on compression. The damping circuit in the forks is so crude ( but perfectly reliable ) that's there's nothing you can do to really tune anything. -Heavy oil will give harsh feel and slighty slower rebound -Thin oil will feel comfy, but allow fast rebound. If you want any decent action out of the forks then something along the lines of Racetechs emulators is the ONLY way get any type of results. And if you aren't measuring and fully understanding sag measurements, then chopping up stuff in the forks won't give you good results. Do some research on static vs race sag ( aka: unladed vs laden sag ) and wrap your head around why there are two different reference points, and how people use them to determine what spring rate is needed. After that makes sense, go measure the sag numbers on the stock forks. You will quickly see that the stock fork setup doesn't align well with conventional thinking. I have a theory on this, but it doesn't matter. What matters is that it works. In stock trim you can feel the bike rock forward under braking. It's easily misunderstood to be fork dive. It's not. The rebound damping in the rear shock is way too weak. What feels like fork dive is just the bike pitching forward due to the suspension unloading in the rear, causing the whole bike to tip forward. Nothing you do to forks can combat this. When the bike tips forward under hard braking is temporarily changes the steering geometry your body naturally adjusted to moments prior. So when you quickly approach a corner, jump on the brakes and the bike tips on it's nose you suddenly feel this change in geometry and your brain thinks the forks are wallowing or flexing, or some weird thing is happening. There is something weird happening, but it's not the forks. These forks are fairly stout and the stanchions have very little unneeded stickout. We aren't flexing these things. The forks aren't wallowing through their rebound/compression strokes or overworking the springs. It's just the bike tipping forward and instantly creating a new and unplanted feel. It feels nasty because it is, but it's all in the rear shock damping. Get a decent shock on the back and 90% of the stock fork issues are fixed. A year ago the internet was making it's typical, predictable remarks about fork springs. "Too soft! Sprung for 140lb Japanese teenagers". Everyone was running out buying fork caps with preload spacers and heavier springs. Now, Dave Moss did a video and everyone wants to now do the opposite. What exactly are YOU feeling on YOUR bike that YOU don't like? Forget about popular opinion. The only modification I have made to my forks is the location of the stock washer. In stock trim there is a steel washer between the fork spring and the spacer, then the soft aluminum fork cap rides directly on the thin, steel spacer. The thin steel spacer tube chews on the fork cap and send aluminum shavings through the forks, which will absolutely wreck the bushings in short order. Run the washer between the spacer and the fork cap to protect the cap from gouging. You don't need a washer between the steel spacer and the steel springs. They don't gall each other and the fit is good enough the the spacer is not gonna slip off the spring. I saw this at 600 miles and the inside of my forks were FILTHY! Completely disassembled the fork for cleaning and found slivers of aluminum EVERYWHERE. Already had some slight scratches on the bushings, luckily it was caught early. 20k miles later, with the fork caps not being chewed up, and my bushing are still perfectly serviceable and my fork oil isn't black from aluminum oxides when I change it annually. It comes out the same color as it went in.
  22. 1 point
    Dave Moss does NOT "walk on water".... PLEASE stop throwing any amount of money at the OEM suspension...... Yamaha does NOT actually build the suspension for our beloved bikes. They outsource it to the "lowest-bidder". That lowest bidder is trying to be competitive, and wants to make a profit. If they can make a suspension that even closely resembles the specs that Yamaha wants, they will most likely "win" the bid. If they can cut-corners, they most likely will- (more profit).... Yamaha doesn't have a big window with an "entry-level" bike. If you truly want a better suspension, you need to spend more money. You can either buy a higher-end bike, or upgrade the suspension of our "lower-end" FZ/MT-07 platform.... Cutting 10mm out of a spacer in the front end might be "free", but will not likely give you the improvements you are looking for. As for the rear, the lack of adjustability is nearly equal to it's lack of serviceability.... It's an "entry level" bike, and there's just not a lot of "wiggle room" for a nicer suspension. On a positive note, there are many cost-effective solutions to upgrading the suspension that won't break the bank-
This leaderboard is set to Denver/GMT-06:00
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.