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Showing content with the highest reputation since 11/27/2017 in Posts

  1. 21 points
    I recently set about doing a throttle body sync today, and needed to fully remove the fairings around the tank on my 2018, and realized there's basically no videos or guides showing this with the newer model, and it differs pretty substantially from the earlier models for which videos and guides abound. So, without further ado: Removing the tank fairings on the 2018+ MT07! First, remove the seats. Screws 1 and 2 are at the base of the seat - release the passenger seat, then remove these two screws, and remove the seat. Next, remove the screws on the sides of the scoops: Then the screws at the front of the scoops. Note, only the marked screws (one on each side) not the silver screws. Then you can pop the scoops off. Pull out at the bottom first to release the big pins in the rubber grommets (see photos) then pop out the clips along the top of the scoop. Because you've taken the pins on the bottom out first, you can tilt the bottom of the scoop away from the bike just a little bit to help pop the top clips out (note their shape) - only tilt the scoop a little, you don't want to snap the clips off! Be gentle. With the clips, I find it helps to start at the rearmost one, and pop them out one at a time working forward. Now you've got the scoops off, there's just 4 more screws to go and you're done. First, pop the two screws off the top of the tank, just forward of the filler: Then the two screws at the front of the fairing: And it's free! There are no more screws or clips, you can pull the centerpiece and both side colored panels off as a single unit. You may need to pull the seat-side bottom edges out a bit (it sits on rubber bumpers attached to the chrome bracket that holds the back of the tank down, so you have to lift the edges of the fairing out over those bumpers) and the front edges by the forks need to be worked around cables. Just gently work the cover off, and voila! I hope this helps someone. The first time I did this, I took out WAY WAY too many screws, silly pushpins, and other such stuff. In fact, the only reason you need to pop the scoops off is to get at the screws at the front of the fairing (11 and 12 above). If not for those two screws, you could take the whole fairing off - scoops and all - in a single piece.
  2. 16 points
    I haven't been on this forum for awhile since my project had many delays. We still aren't done but done enough to test the bike and me out last Friday. Video and pics from my practice day at Road Atlanta yesterday. We missed the morning sessions due to some issues but rode the 3 afternoon sessions. The video starts with me being pushed to pit out and the first time ever back on a motorcycle one day prior to my 6 year crash anniversary. I'm pretty sketchy the first session out. At 6:41 the video flips to the third session and I'm already much more comfortable. I took about 30 seconds off my lap times from just the first to third sessions. Got down to a 2:11 in the third session which is slow but I was still being conservative since it's all still new to me. Before my crash I think I turned 1:44's at Road Atlanta on my Aprilia/RZ 396cc 2T hybrid. Huge props to Doug McCracken. I wouldn't have been out there if it weren't for him. More mods to the bike are coming. Also have to thank Sue, Dustin Ducote, Pops, Richie, Edwin, Stick, all of WERA and many more who helped me along the way to get me where I am today. I decided to not race Saturday because I would have to start from pit lane and I know I'd get lapped. Some racers have traveled far and are spending hard earned money to race and I don't want to get in their way if fighting for a win or position. We had a great day and much to build upon. https://youtu.be/vteXo1czNWE https://youtu.be/ZHIXCDr1cN4
  3. 16 points
    Luckily, I got one of the very first ones in the country. The engine seems to have a lil more pop to it over the MT07, but probably due to it being geared lower. Suspension is fully adjustable and better than I thought it would be. Feels great on the road, offroad is a blast but have to take it kind of slow because the suspension bottoms out easily. Im gonna dd progressive springs and revalve forks and shock. Seat is comfortable. It's a great do it all bike so far.
  4. 16 points
    Welcome to the forum. You can ask questions and we will do our best to answer them. I have been riding since 1974 on dirtbikes, streetbikes since 1983. I have lost 7 people in my life from motorcycle accidents. All but three were due to rider error. And one would had lived if he had been wearing a full face helmet. Please, read my following advice. 1. Gear. When you are riding, look down for a second at the pavement going by. You are floating on the worlds biggest power sander. When you go down, the first issue is imapct, then it becomes about your clothes and skin being ground away from your body. So, when you are looking down, ask yourself if your gear is good enough to survive impact AND the skid. The VERY FIRST UPGRADE YOU SHOULD GET IS THE BEST GEAR THAT YOU CAN AFFORD. Period. Screw ECU flashing, screw exhaust, screw seat, screw anything else that does not protect you during a crash or laydown at speed. Jeans melt into your skin and get sanded away as you slide on pavement. Below are links to nothing but closeout pricing on outstanding good riding gear that is all on sale! I suggest buying from Revzilla because if something doesn't fit, they have the very best return policies. Cycle Gear is good as well, but avoid most of their Bilt products. Some will argue with me, but its the truth. Helmets I only wear helmets that are ECE 22.05 rated. DOT rating means nothing. HERE ARE LINKS TO NOTHING BUT ECE 22.05 RATED HELMETS, MANY ON SALE. OK, now that you have good protective gear on the way, it is time for you to sign up for a good motorcycle class. I can see from your ip address that you are from Florida (don't worry, all websites show your ip address to the admin) Be smart, sign up for a class ASAP https://www.flhsmv.gov/driver-licenses-id-cards/motorcycle-rider-education-endorsements/florida-rider-training-program-courses/ Go find a parking lot, a big empty one and practice stopping and swerving at 35 mph. Then, start practicing at 55 mph. Over and over again. When riding, what kills most new riders is this fact. Whatever you are looking at, is where your bike will go. So, be looking 20 yards ahead or farther, and only where you want to go. Notice an obstacle or a car or a kid? Dont stare at it or you will run right into it. Always look at the exit, look only at where you want to go. Have fun, be safe and dont be in a hurry to upgrade your bike. Be in a hurry to get to know everything about it. Spent a good amount of time on this forum, tech tips section has everything you need to know about this bike. Also, use the search feature to look up questions before asking them, the subject has probably already been covered. And, take a sec and upload a profile pic so you dont look like a newb. And place your pin on the memebr map! WELCOME! you are gonna love that bike!!
  5. 14 points
    My aim was to find an affordable set of forks to slot in to our trees in the hopes for a quick, inexpensive fork upgrade that anyone could do with basic tools at home. Well, I think it worked out, but it's not quite as "bolt-on" as I hoped. It's still relatively simple to pull off at home. Here goes... The forks to use will be Honda 1995-98 Honda CBR600F3 forks. Has to be F3 forks. There were a few F2 forks in '94 that had cartridge internals, but I'm not positive they are the same as these. The internals will give you dual cartridges in each leg ( rebound and compression ), externally adjustable rebound clicker and externally adjustable preload. There is no external adjustment for compression. My first goal was to just use the F3 forks in our trees. F3 forks are also 41mm like ours. That would retain all factory geometry while also upgrading to larger, floating rotors. But it didn't work out. Fork spacing of our trees is too close together, so the stock F3 wheel would not fit back between them. The stock F3 wheel uses the same size tire and it's twisted 6 spoke pattern would be very close to a visual match. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 5 views. Moving on...let's see if we can just use our fork lowers on the F3 tubes and cartridges. The answer is, yes! Stock internals above, F3 bits below. A few thing to note here. 1- Springs are the same length(the picture is deceptive). Spacers are different lengths, but that's not important. We'll get back to this later. 2- F3 springs are progressively wound. 3- What anchors the forks together uses different size bolts. More on this directly below. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Here is the final fastener that actually holds the forks together. Above is the damper rod from the stock forks, below is the compression cartridge from the F3 forks. The stock bolt is a 10mm , the F3 bolt is 8mm. If you've ever changed forks seals/bushings...these are those bolts in the bottom of the fork lower that want to fight you. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Here's what it takes to do the swap. When you first disassemble the F3 forks this is what you will see at the bottom of the cartridge assembly. That threaded hole is where is the forks lower attaches. You need to remove that compression cartridge from the cartridge assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Just with your finger, push the cartridge in to the tube to reveal this circlip. Pop out that circlip. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Thread the bolt back in as a handle and pop it out. Easy peasy. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. This is what needs to be modified. That aluminum piece is just a seat for the cartridge assembly. It sandwiches between the fork lower and the compression cartridge. Since the F3 bolt was 8mm it also needs to be opened up to accept the 10mm bolt needed for the stock fork lowers. The bottom of the cartridge needs to be drilled and tapped to accept the stock bolt as well. This is the only things that need to be modified. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Before you do any work to the compression cartridge you need to fully disassemble it. You can not have ANY tiny amount of grit or debris in these components. We're talking surgical clean here. Try your best to not mar the outside of the valve. Use hardwood, sheets of copper, aluminum soft jaws on your vice....whatever it takes...but please avoid pipe wrenches, vise grips,etc. All you need to remove is the socket head ( allen head) screw that holds the valve assembly to the valve body. That bolt is threadlocked in place, so get a good grip on things, but you do not need to use an impact or anything crazy. Now you can drill & tap without damaging the valve assembly. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. You do NOT need a lathe to do this! I never turned the machine on, I just used the lathe to help me align the parts for tapping. I tapped the valve by hand. But note the slip of copper protecting the valve body from the jaws of the chuck. Something like that is all you need. The new thread needs to be tapped to M10-1.0. 10mm diameter with a 1.0 thread pitch. Your tap should tell you what size drill bit to use. If not, a 8.5mm drill bit is the industry standard to use for a M10-1.0 hole. 8.5mm lands right between 5/16" and 11/32". I used a sharp 11/32" drill bit with perfect results. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Important! Do NOT drill all the way through the valve body. Only drill and tap as far as needed. You can see it clearly with all the parts in your hands, but remember that the other side of the valve body uses a smaller fastener to retain the valve assembly. You can see a small step at the base of the new M10-1.0 thread. That is where the smaller thread begins. New M10-1.0 thread. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. Smaller thread on other side of the valve. 5mm? 6mm? I can't remember... Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. At this point, you are done modifying, all that's left to do is reassemble the forks as if they were bone stock F3 forks. You use the forks tubes, caps, internals and lower bushings from the F3 forks. The ONLY FZ07 parts you will use is the fork lowers, 10mm retaining bolts and upper fork bushing. The lower fork bushings from the F3 forks are interchangeable with your stock bushings, but they are actually properly sized! They are not the "too small" bushings Yamaha gave us. So, reuse the F3 lower bushings unless you already have properly fitting bushings that are in good, or better, shape than what is in your F3 donor forks. The upper F3 bushings are larger than our stock bushing, so be sure to reuse the stock upper bushing or you will bind the forks. Stock on the left, F3 on the right. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 0 views. Finally assembly notes: Honda and the internet will gine you lots of differing suggestions on what fork oil and oil level to use. The thing to remember is that our bikes are a good 40lbs lighter than the F3 donor bike these forks came from. I originally went with 10w oil at 116mm oil level. It was harsh. I am currently using Maxima 52 oil at 120mm oil level and am happy with how the forks feel. Also, I am 220lbs in my birthday suit. I do not know what the stock spring rate is for F3 forks, but they springs work for me. However, remember earlier when I mentioned the springs were the same length? If you are happy with your current spring rates, just reuse your stock springs. The diameters are the same, so you're good to go. This post is strictly to show what small modification need to be done to install our stock fork lowers on to F3 fork tubes, and what oil weight and level works good for our bikes.. I am purposefully not going in to detail on how to disassemble and reassemble these two different types of forks. There's tons of info on that already. Just disassemble both, drill/tap the valve body and reassemble. Ride impressions: There is no doubt you are riding on late 90's sport bike fork technology at this point. Low speed compression bumps are a tad harsh. Not bone-jarring, just a tad harsh. But everything else is fantastic. Compression and rebound characteristics are VERY good. My stock forks would often jar me at speed. EG, hitting bridge expansion joints at highway speeds. That no longer happens. If you riding on a rough road at city speed (25-35 mph) the forks will feel a tad harsh....kinda like riding a sport bike! But at speed?....oh, at speed...that harder you push the plusher they feel. Throw the bike back and forth between corners and she's solid. No wallow. No wiggle. Just a nicely dampened front suspension. Travel: If you look up the specs on wheel travel on our bikes VS the F3 forks you will think this will give up fork travel. It won't. Yamaha lied. The ONLY way you can get the full 5.1" inches of travel out of the stock forks is if you completely compress the topout springs. Never gonna happen. Wheel travel is the same. Now...here's the "bad" art of this deal. The fork tubes are 2.25" longer than stock. So, if you just want to do this to your bike and leave everything else stock you will be rocking some extra fork tube above the top yoke. Like me! Yeah, you might look like a total squid noob with a lowered bike at first glance, but who cares. However....this also give you some pretty nice options! Been wanting to raise your bike and inch or so? Gotcha covered. Want to run legit clipons without some bulky,expensive adapter that bolts to the floppy stock bar mounts? Gotcha covered there, too! A set of 41mm clipons ( very common size) could be slid in to place and made to work oh,so easily. So are the long tubes a blessing or a cosmetic con? depends on what you need out of your bike. And yes, I did check for travel with so much tube exposed. You will not crash the fork lowers in to the bottom yokes. The bottom edge of the blue masking tape represents the forks completely bottomed out. Plenty of clearance. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 1 views. So, stock fork lowers in order to retain your original wheel and brakes. But add fully cartridge internal, extra height is wanted and the ability to mount clipons. For 100 bucks. I paid $75 for my forks off Craigslist and wasted some oil figuring out what worked good. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  6. 13 points
    8/15/2020 NYST photos....
  7. 13 points
    Note: The following are opinions. It is not based on scientific research but on experience and observation. Before I retired I had the good fortune to work the Sturgis Rally for a number of years. Because of this I had the unique opportunity to observe hundreds of thousands of similarly dressed rugged individualists attempt to operate motorcycles. That experience taught me two things. First was that many of them were inept at handling motorcycles and a vast majority of those honestly thought they were 'above avg' to 'excellent' riders when in fact they could not make a simple feet-up U turn in the full width of a 2 lane road. In talking to them at crash scenes, tip overs, fender benders and assorted mishaps I was appalled by the realization that they refused to practice or to learn or to seek instruction, frequently telling me that they thought their skills are "good enough", when clearly they were not. Second was that their focus and attention was frequently within the cockpit of the motorcycle instead of down range where it should be. When presented with situations that required divided attention, like pulling off a busy roadway into a busy gas station, their attention would shrink to their hand controls and they might very well crash straight into the fuel pumps or a car or another biker oblivious to their presence. Riders pulling away from a stop into traffic would pause and stare at the throttle, brake and clutch levers or at the ground directly in front of their motorcycle because they were overwhelmed and commence their action often with disastrous results. On to the free part. It costs nothing to stop in an empty parking lot or out of the way spot by yourself or better yet with other riders to offer critical input and PRACTICE riding. Braking. Turning. Avoidance maneuvers. Working with your control interfaces to make their operation intrinsic. Basic motorcycle control to familiarize yourself with your machine and it's capabilities. Two up if you ever take a loved one with. You owe it to your passenger to be better than 'good enough'. Occasionally practicing for problem #1 has the added benefit of taking care of problem #2, letting you safely enjoy the ride. The rest of us thank you. I realize that most of us here or that will read this are statistically not those I speak of. My hope is that we lead by example and are seen routinely practicing. That we take a friend or neighbor or other riding companion to the parking lot and learn together because I know my skills will never be good enough. Ride safe.
  8. 12 points
    DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.
  9. 11 points
    We had the opportunity through Darren James to work with Trevor up at Flexi-glass on new bodywork for the FZ07 and MT07. The quality of the kit is amazing. The tank is molded off the FZ07 stock tank and uses the stock mounting locations without the flex or need for additional bracing of other kits on the market. Utilizing the current ZX10R wind screen. Bodywork is 2.0”narrower to avoid dragging and clearanced to avoid the exhaust in the lower. The mounting kit will be built by Robem and available on the website. Flexi-glass is proudly made in Canada with premium products. Cost estimated $800 upper, lower, tail, tank cover and fender plus shipping.
  10. 11 points
    This is a short how-to on flushing your cooling system and replacing the coolant. I used Engine Ice, a propylene glycol-based coolant, but the manual calls for a "high quality ethylene glycol coolant safe for aluminum engines". Note: this procedure should be done on a day above freezing temperature to avoid the coolant flush from freezing in your engine and cooling system. Tools/supplies you'll need: 2mm hex key for radiator retaining bolt 5mm hex key for the reservoir bolt 6 (8?) mm box or flare nut wrench for the coolant drain bolt New coolant drain bolt [95022-06010-00] and copper washer [90430-06014-00] (if you so desire) ~0.5 US gal coolant of your choice - I used Engine Ice 1 gal distilled water 0.5 gal distilled white vinegar Drain pan for coolant Empty containers for old coolant Funnel (unless you're brave) Household measuring cup 1. WARNING! BE SURE ENGINE AND RADIATOR ARE COOL TO THE TOUCH BEFORE PROCEEDING! You will hurt yourself if you try to open the radiator while the engine or radiator are still warm. 2. Remove the radiator cap's retaining bolt and then remove the radiator's cap (is the engine cool?!) by pushing down and turning. Replace the radiator cap without turning it after you remove it. This is so when we crack the drain bolt, the flow isn't so strong at first while we orient the drain pan to catch the old coolant. 3. Carefully loosen the coolant drain bolt (located on the bottom-most coolant pipe leading to the radiator). This is a delicate small bolt so don't wrench it too hard. Remember it's upside down, so don't turn to the left ... Ask me how I know that won't work... Also, don't lose the little copper washer if you plan on reusing it! 4. Ready the drain pan of your choice - I use a cut out old oil jug. Drain the coolant into the pan, removing the radiator cap entirely when you have the pan aligned. 5. While the coolant is draining, mix the white vinegar and distilled water in a 50/50 ratio to make your coolant flush. When the coolant is dripping instead of flowing, it's time to remove the reservoir on the other side. Loosen and remove the retaining bolt and undo the quick fastener. Remove the coolant reservoir altogether by peeling back the top cap. Pour the old coolant into the drain pan. Wash the bottle if you'd like - just rinse it with distilled water when you're done. Mine had sediment all along the bottom. When you're done, fill the reservoir halfway with the flush solution and replace it on the bike - torque the retaining bolt to 3.6 ftlb (not super tight!). Make sure the rubber cap is completely sealed on the tank. 6. Replace the coolant drain bolt and washer, torque to spec (5.1 ft lb - not super tight). Fill the radiator with the flush solution you just made - pour until you can see the flush solution at the filler neck, then replace the radiator cap. Don't worry about any air, this isn't a brake line - just be sure it is as full as you can make it so your machine doesn't overheat. 7. Run the machine until your radiator fan kicks on - about 210 degrees F. I had to ride mine around the corner and then some to get it this warm. I did this to get the water pump to work through the flush solution. You can just leave it idle if you'd like, too. 8. LET THE MACHINE COOL COMPLETELY BEFORE PROCEEDING. 9. When the engine is cool again, remove the radiator retaining bolt, the radiator cap (is the engine cool?!), crack the drain bolt again, get the flush solution out, replace the drain bolt, pour distilled water in until the radiator is full, crack the drain bolt again until the radiator is empty ... Truly, rinse and repeat as needed into the drain pan. Don't forget the drain your reservoir tank, too. Rinse it with distilled water too. When you're satisfied no more gunk is coming out, fill the radiator with your coolant mix this time to the filler neck, and fill the reservoir to the "F" line. 10. Recheck your work for leaks or missed connections/fasteners, then run the bike and recheck the coolant level in the reservoir when it settles. Fill it to the halfway mark if necessary with more coolant. Keep an eye out for leaks, and change your dash to the temperature readout to keep an eye on it for the next day or two to be sure everything is working OK. 11. Revel in the glory of doing maintenance yourself - your wallet will thank you!
  11. 10 points
    Pics from last weekends track day event hosted by TDW. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and learning things every lap. I'm getting close to the edge of the rear tire so I think I'll need to add a rear link to jack the back end up. Bike worked flawlessly except in one session I had fuel leaking out the Vortex gas cap. I think I just didn't click it down completely because it didn't leak at all the second day.
  12. 10 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  13. 10 points
    Even though this is a promo, I find it interesting as a roadracing fanatic I thought I'd share: I hope you enjoy it.
  14. 10 points
    So I silently volunteered myself to be a guinea pig for the benefit of my fellow forum members. I think im the first person to slap the "new" 2018 rear shock on a first generation bike. I would like to get a few things out in the open before I give my thoughts. 1st, ive got just over 10,000 miles on my 2017 with stock suspension. Only change ive made is 10mm additional preload in the front forks-so i feel well qualified to have an opinion on the stock 2017 rear shock. It sucks. It really, really sucks. 2nd, im not a track rider or even really an advanced rider. 3rd, the 2018 shock is not track ready equipment. 4th, im still on the original bt023 tires. 5th, my bike is primarily a commuter. 55 miles daily with a mix of 80mph freeway and rutted chewed up city streets. However, ive burned through a couple hundred miles with this new shock and wanted to share my thoughts on this upgrade. Im 205lbs and 5 ft 9 for reference. The 2018 shock is FAR better at bump absorbing, road tracking and generally rear tire stability. I have good rear sag with the shock in the stock 4th click. I did some testing on the rebound adjuster and found for street use it seems to ride best right around the middle. When i brake hard and fast the nose only tips forward slightly. When i lean into 25mph darts across intersections, my back tire no longer feels like its skipping across the pavement. There are several turns on my way home from work that cross rail road tracks. Ive been hitting those same 40 mph(speed zone) turns at 55mph for almost 2 years now. Those railroad tracks would bump me off the seat and the bike would cycle up and down 2 or 3 times at least and wiggle unstably throught the turn. I just got used to lifting my bottom off the seat. With the new shock i hit those same turns at the same speed. The rear shock compresses and then pushes back down on the pavement. Doesnt bump me out of the seat and the bike doesnt wiggle while trying to settle itself. Ya know. Like a rear shock is supposed to. The bike feels exponentially more stable in all the corners ive tossed it into since i put the 2018 shock on. I also dont have to stand over the seat for small or even moderate bumps anymore. It tracks better, feels less squirelly in corners and is much more comfortable now. Also noticed it isnt as wiggly on the highway, perticularly when passing large vehicles. So in conclusion, no its not an ohlins. No its not a ktech or wilbers. But for the $270 they cost new or under $100 they can be found used(rare on ebay but they do come up) its a massive improvement to the whole experience. And unlike the cbr shock it requires no airbox mods. For the price on a street ridden bike id do it again. Please if anyone has any questions im happy to answer them. TLDR-the 2018 rear shock is way better than the 2015-2017 rear shock and isnt expensive. Worth considering if you want to improve the bike but dont have $500 to buy something nicer and arent planning to hit the track.
  15. 10 points
    So you're thinking about participating in a track day event. Good for you! You'll have a blast. There is no better way to have fun than learning to go faster(ish) on the relative safety of a racetrack. Everyone going the same direction, w/o fear of turning traffic, wild animals, cell phones, distracted drivers, or law enforcement. An environment free of curbs, signposts, delineators or parked cars, with sand traps and run offs created to make mistakes painless. Learning how to be a better rider, exploring your and your bike's limits and all while hopefully sharing it with friends. Here are just a few things that may make the preperation less stressful, help you enjoy it more and prevent some common mistakes that often cause trouble along the way. And by the way, a track day (un-timed, closed course event) is covered by most auto insurance should you 'oops'. Your health insurance covers you in the event it's needed. The event itself; First off, a track day event is not a race. You do not have to worry about, "I'm not fast enough", or "I don't like competition" . There are groups for every level of rider from rank newb to veteran fast guy. There is no need to be intimidated or worry that, "I wont be able to poke along at my pace" because there is always someone else with your skill and mindset wanting to do the same thing. The provider will have trackside corner workers (flaggers) and First Responders (ambulances) present for safety as well. There will also be Control Riders present in each group to control pace, assist with riding technique, nip goof-offs in the bud, show ride line and to give feedback on your performance. Don't be afraid to enlist their assistance or ask for tips or 'a tow'. They are there because they love to ride, love the track and want to help. Once at the track there will be a required Riders Meeting. Don't miss this. Here is your chance to ask your questions and make sure you feel comfortable with the proceedures, flagging, your gear, what ever. Track riding will usually take place in cycles, 3-20 minute sessions per hour and then cycle throughout the day. For instance Novice, Intermediate, Expert, Novice, Intermediate, Expert....all day. You will be on track for 20 minutes each hour then have 40 minutes off track to refresh, rehydrate, refuel, use the restroom or whatever. Don't worry, you will find that 20 minutes will kick your butt and you will need the full 40 minutes to recharge. Once you decide to try it; When you sign up for an event you will have to pick a group to ride in, usually classified as Novice, Intermediate & Expert, or something similar. Some times groups are split a step further too, Intermediate 1 and Intermediate 2 for iinstance. The event promoter will help you if you are confused about your level of riding. Unless you have some credentials that suggest otherwise the provider will usually put folks with no, or limited, track experience in Novice or Beginner. A seasoned track day rider or novice club racer is most likely in Intermediate. Where as expert club racers or track day veterans on bigger bikes would go into Expert or Fast, which ever the promoter uses to delineate faster riders. Keep in mind these classes are flexible and people frequently move up or down a class for various reasons. There are seperate rules in each Group that govern when, where and how passing is allowed to help with safety and let the beginners have fun at their level yet allow the folks in the Fast Group to stretch their throttle cables. You, your bike and your gear; You don't need a full hog 1000cc racebike or even a sportbike for that matter to enjoy a track day. Many folks have taken their Goldwings, standards, dirtbikes, or cruisers on track and had a hoot. The bike must be in good mechanical condition with no fluids leaking. Tires should have at least 50% tire tread and check and recheck tire pressures. Good functional front and rear brakes. Some track day providers require replacing the standard coolant with a track friendly variant like Water Wetter, Engine Ice, or simply plain distilled water. It will specify in their sign up packets what is required. Make sure all your controls operate freely and are in good condition. No frayed cables, duct taped case covers or flapping body work. Check and top off your oil and brake fluid levels. You will probably be required to remove license plates and mirrors and tape over lights to prevent sharp flying objects in the event of a crash. Beginner protective gear normally consists of a riding suit of some sort. Generally doesn't have to be a one piece race suit. A two piece riding suit that zips together, made of leather or textile will usually fulfill the requirements. Boots that cover the ankle, full gauntlet gloves and a good helmet that fits. Back protectors are reccamended but usually optional for beginners. Higher levels frequently require better or more gear. A minimal toolkit that allows adjusting controls, a gas can (cause you're gonna have a ton of fun and burn through the gas). A cooler with ice, water, sports drinks, fruit, lighter foods and refreshments make the day more enjoyable. Umbrella or pop up sun shelter is nice, a chair, sunscreen, hats, towels, and bug spray if needed completes your kit. It's really pretty easy. Pick a nearby track. Google up a track day provider at said track. Use their Web site or simply call the provided number and talk to them. They want you there and will do everything they can to make you a repeat track day hero! Giddyup
  16. 10 points
    Congrats to Darren James and Ruthless Racing on 3rd place and his first podium on the fz07r in the Twin Cup at Sonoma Raceway!
  17. 9 points
    Well a bizarre 2020 is fast coming to a close but that just means next season is just around the corner. I piled up the last 5 seasons assemblage of toys for it's new owner, arriving in the great white north from Birmingham on Sunday. (We had snow today) I spent a day freshening it up a bit for it's journey. Farewell old friend. And drug this home for something to do over the winter. One of its owners 2 RC-51's. This one was raced years ago and has sat idle and neglected in the back corner of the garage for 10 years. It will be put back on the road in street legal trim so it's owner and his son can ride them together on weekends. Aside from this and a few other short term projects you just never know what will roll outta the shop come spring
  18. 9 points
    So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.
  19. 9 points
    95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.
  20. 9 points
    So I picked this up from a buddy, (read confiscated, lol) to build another racebike for a friend who says to me, "can you replicate your bike but with any upgrades or changes you'd make after racing yours for 4 seasons?". Hmm, says I, let me look into this. A few texts and late nite calls to some track friends and vendors and we're off and running. Pulled the motor and head for shipment to Zoran at TWF Racing, Looks like another excellent starting point. Getting the head ported, Web cams, valve job, bored throttle bodies. Ordered all the bits n pieces to have a ball both in the shop building it and on the track enjoying it. $6,000 not counting suspension bits, machine work, shipping and cost of the bike. So, yeah it's not cheap but it'll be an affordable option to the full on MotoAmerica builds at double or more the cost. This bike, like mine, should be able to make the grid in any MotoAmerica Twins Cup event, and podium at any club racing event under the right rider. Got some fun and high tech things in the works from Matt at Robem Engineering and from Brandon at Trackside Labs to bookend the motor Zoran is helping with. Stay tuned for V2. Fun.
  21. 9 points
    Just installed my Corbin seat and it's awesome! I realize there are several other Corbin posts out there but I figured I'd add my input and pics as well. Install was simple. It hooks underneath the metal fuel tank (not the factory seat hook) at the front and attaches using the factory rear seat latch. When I first installed it, I had to push down pretty hard on the rear to get it to latch. I added 2 small washers under the hook at the rear to make it latch a little easier and now it's perfect. The fit and finish is impressive and I like the looks of the seat much more than I was expecting to. I'm 6/2 and 215lbs and I have about 350ish miles on the seat now and the first thing I noticed is that it adds a noticeable amount of height over the factory seat (and even the Seat Concepts seat this is replacing). I'm now leaned a little more forward now. I wasn't expecting that but luckily I happen to have taller replacement handlebars laying around that I'll install to help get myself more upright again. The height seems to come from the added shape to the front of the seat where it meets the tank. Much more material here than stock. The seat has a nice curve at the rear of the front seat that, as others have mentioned, works nice to hold you in place during hard acceleration. The seat still allows easy maneuvering from side to side for spirited riding although that will likely be different with other seat coverings. I can say though that the seat shape doesn't impede side-to-side movement. I have the Gunfighter model which has a smaller profile at the rear as compared to their more pillion-friendly Gunfighter and Lady version. I don't take passengers but I'm willing to bet that my seat is much more comfy than the stock rear seat. Another thing to note about the rear is that it is nice and flat making it easy to strap a tailbag to it which I like. Ballparking the amount of time before I started feeling some discomfort on each seat goes something like this: stock seat = 1hr or so, Seat Concepts foam and cover replacement = 1.5-2hrs, Corbin = 3+hrs so far. Of course these are my findings and everybody will have different results but I can comfortably go a full tank of gas now without squirming around in the seat. I should mention that even once I start to feel some discomfort, it stays manageable now and I'm finding that I really don't need to move around like I did with the previous seats. Things may change as the seat breaks in and I'll keep this post updated on any new info. I ordered the seat here as they had the best prices I could find: https://biohazardcycles.com/corbin-y-fz7-14-g-gunfighter-saddle-seat-fz07-fz-07/ Seat showed up about 3 weeks later. The options I went with are: Black Carbon Fiber for the seat, tail, and welt. Asphalt Vinyl for the sides. Black stitching and logo. On to the pics,
  22. 9 points
    Been having fun. this bike is very trail capable. Beat this thru the muddy trails at 6000 ft above Boise in the rain and it took everything I gave it and keep wanting to go faster. This was up in Stanley, Idaho at the trailhead
  23. 9 points
    I wish I had documented the progress as I went. Better late than never.... I can honestly say that I'm "done" modding my FZ-07. I'm 50 years old, I a neck fusion done a few years ago. That made riding my KTM RC390 on the track impossible, as I couldn't lift my head up high enough to see where I was going . I needed a bike with a more upright riding position. I ordered a KTM Duke 390, and pulled the "go-fast" parts off my RC (to but on the new Duke). After several missed deliver dates, I bought a brand new "carry-over" 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 instead (two weeks before my first track day of the 2017 season). In hindsight, I'm glad the deliver dates got missed. I have never been as happy with ANY bike in the last 40+ years of riding. This bike was mostly going to be used on the track. I did sometimes street ride it though. This year the bike is my dedicated track-only bike. I didn't even license it for 2020, as I picked up a new 2019 Yamaha R3 for the street last fall. My neck can tolerate the surprisingly neutral riding position of the R3 on the street. Here's a list of all the mods I've done over the last three years, as well as some pictures. Let me know what you think . - Dunlop Q3+ (front & rear) - K-Tech Razor-R shock - Racetech springs and Gold Valve fork emulators - Preload adjusters for the forks - Hordpower intake - Akrapovic Ti exhaust - 2WDW ECU flash - Speigler braided brake lines (front & rear) - Woodcraft rear sets - Woodcraft water pump slider - Vortex 520 chain & sprockets - T-Rex crash protection (full kit) - Renthal "ultra-low" bars - Tech spec tank grippers - OEM Yamaha seat cowl - "Engine Ice" coolant - Cheap Ebay windshield (used as a number plate) *required at some track days* I'm probably forgetting a few things as well? It took me a while to get the suspension set-up correctly, but it was worth it! I've never been happier on a track as I am on this bike. I had a lot of fun putting all this together. I'm too far into bike to ever sell it. Last summer I was offered $10K for it (from a guy with too much money). I politely declined-
  24. 9 points
    Well, we've been at the track all weekend again. This time we were graced by Andy Palmer and 2018 Twins Cup champion Chris Parrish. They were testing an AP MotoArts FZ07r with the full metal MotoAmerica spec. We were able to arrange a head to head race in Super Twins between our local hotshots on our hotrods and Parrish on AP's fastest in MotoAmerica equivalent. Wow what a race! In fairness it was Parrish's first time at BIR and on Andy's ride. I had our local Dunlop tire rep and track hotshoe Brett Donahue (@TenRacing) ride my bike. Also present were ex AMA pro and track instructor Curt Schushke (FZ07r pilot), track record holder in lightweight twins and fellow MotoAmerica competitor Jon Champ (SV650) mounted, past #1 plate holder Brian Hebiesen (SV650), PR Stafki on his gorgeous RC-51 and a host of other fast dudes. Wait for it... JR Hiebert checked out on his 1299 Duc of course. Parrish and Donahue battled back and forth for second after dispensing with the rest of the field. Parrish finished second posting a best lap of 1:42.5 on Andy's rocket; and Brett in third posting a best lap of 1:42.9 on Blue Line Racings home built FZ07r. Not bad! We didn't knock the big kids down but we did bloody their nose a bit. What fun! It was rewarding to see my club racing machine dance with a skilled partner and hold its own against arguably the best pro-twin there is. Thanks to everyone that played in the sandbox and best part, we get to do it again tommorow.
  25. 9 points
    I was servicing my front end, and thought I would post some how-to pics. I already installed the Racetech front end (2 years ago). I thought as long as it's apart, why not help someone out that might be a bit intimidated doing it themselves- The first step is to loosen (but not remove the top cap). You want to do this ON the bike, with the fork tubes still clamped in the triple clamps. If you forget this step, you will know why very soon -...The OEM caps are silver. I have aftermarket "red" caps for preload adjustment- Loosen the axle pinch bolt (1) with a metric Allen wrench. Then, loosen (but do not remove) the axle with a 19mm wrench. The axle is behind axle slider (2) in this picture. You will see it in the next pic. Next, remove the brake caliper bolts on both sides. It's a good practice to secure them with zip ties, and NOT have them hanging from the brake lines (like I did)... Next, support the front end on a stand. If you don't have a front stand, you can "improvise" like I did. I hung a come-a-long from the ceiling (I would think a ratchet strap would work too). Anything to get the front wheel off the ground, and is secure. I put two "soft-straps" around the handlebars to help balance the bike on the come-a-long. Now, you can remove the two outer fender bolts with a metric Allen wrench. Now you should be able the remove the front axle all the way, and remove the front wheel. Be careful not to lose the axle spacers once the axle is out. Next, you can remove the "fender fairings". They lock onto the main fender in slots. Pull the bottom out sideways, while pulling the top towards you. Next, you can remove the inner fender bolts on both sides (2 on each side) with a 8mm wrench. Now you can remove the fender. There really isn't a good way to do this? I found lifting one side "up", and "rolling" the fender 90 degrees, then sliding it forward works about the best. Loosen the lower pinch bolts on each side Loosen the upper pinch bolts on each side. The fork leg will fall out when the bolt is loose enough, so secure it with your other hand. The FZ-07 has black plastic "sleeves" between the upper & lower clamps (the MT-07 does NOT have these). There is also a o-ring in the bottom of this "sleeves". I have NO idea what purpose they serve???? The sleeves will stay on the bike, the o-ring may fall out of the bottom of the sleeves. Now, you can remove the top cap on the fork leg. There will be about 10mm of "preload" on the cap. It won't hurt you, but may startle you- Next, you want to make a "hook tool" (1) out of an old coat hanger. Use this to reach inside the fork tube, and hook the fork spring. Lift it up and remove everything from the spring up (you will get oil on whatever surface your working on, so put down a towel/rag). Part number (2) is steel from the factory. This will be discarded, and will be replaced with PVC pipe included with the Racetech springs. You will need to cut it to the proper length per the included Racetech instructions. If you choose to retain the OEM springs, you will need to purchase some 1" PVC pipe, and cut it to the proper length to retain the 10mm on preload on the spring. With the fork spring removed, compress the upper fork tube, until it bottoms out in the lower fork tube. Put a tape measure inside the fork tube and measure the oil level (a flashlight helps here). It should be about 5 inches from the top. Now you can turn the fork upside down, and drain the oil into a drain pan. Next, you will need to remove the dampener rod. You will need a 8mm Allen wrench (1), and you MAY need a broom handle to hold the top of the dampener rod in place to loosen the Allen head cap screw on the bottom of the fork leg. If you have access to an impact gun, that is preferred, but I've have good luck on several bikes, with the Broom handle/Allen wrench combo . Congratulations!!!! You have now taken the internals of your fork apart. This is a very simple design, and doesn't have that many parts. Be careful not to lose the copper sealing washer on the locking bolt. Next, you will need to drill some holes in the dampener rod (1). If memory serves, the OEM has four smaller holes. Those will need to be drilled out to 5/16" diameter, and two more 5/16" diameter holes will need to be drilled. The instructions from Racetech spell it out VERY clearly. This is a close up of the holes. Be sure to de-burr the holes (inside & out), as I did. Now, you can start re-assembling the fork. Start with locking the dampener rod back in the lower fork leg, and start working backwards from where you started. You can order everything from www.racetech.com (And NO- I don't work for them) You will be adding the Goldvalve Emulators (1) $169. This is kind of a marvel of engineering (I think there may be some magic "pixie-dust" inside them too). You will get an "access code" for what Goldvalve/Emulator spring you should use, and how to set it up for the FZ-07 (all springs are included). The FZ-07 requires an "adapter" (2) with the Goldvalve Emulators (I think it's like $25?) I also highly recommend getting race tech springs (for your specific weight) $129. You will need about a liter of 10wt. fork oil as well. I'm not going to go into all the details of reassembly. The Racetech instructions do a great job with that. I just wanted to show people what the internals look like, and if it's something someone would be comfortable doing. Racetech is a GREAT company to deal with if you have any issues with the install. I hope this helps some people out I've done this on my last three bikes, and have NEVER been disappointed. For about $300, it will virtually ELIMINATE the front end dive when braking, and make everything work better in the front-end.
  26. 9 points
    I really took my time doing this and tried to document it as best I could. I hope this helps someone. If you've read this far, you should know that I'm not an expert so I apologize if I got something wrong above - hence the disclaimer at the start. But I did follow the manual to the letter, and my machine did indeed start up and runs just fine after the procedure. I will say that I actually screwed up and turned the crankshaft before I put the chain tensioner on (like an idiot!), so I had to retime the engine using the alignment marks without the aid of my witness marks. But my motor didn't blow up in the end!
  27. 9 points
    I have owned this since new. I have had it covered up in various garages for the past 30 years. A few weeks ago I found out how much they are selling for now, so I thought it might be a good time to get it road worthy again......................and sell it! It was/is a blast to ride. You think the FZ is light!
  28. 9 points
    Brilliant ride up to the Town of 1770 ( yes that's it's name) with a local group of brike riders. They usually ride at night so I can't ride with them ( cause I can't see at night). They rode up to the superb area of coast where I originally was going to retire and were going to meet some riders from the next two towns up the coast ( Gladstone and Rockhampton). I get up to the lookout and there is not one but 3 other MT07's. Never even ridden with ONE before. Was fun. Great day is paradise. The MT07 is a seriously wonderful bike to ride. Like the old Datsun 1600, you can drive it like a little old lady and it will look after you , you can cruise it and it will roll along giving what you need when you need it or you can push the crap out of it and it will prance around going "MORE...MORE". This is a FINE motorcycle
  29. 9 points
    In light of the pretty lousy job I've been doing this spring on fulfillment turn-around I am making the following changes. * shipping in of forks for service/install will only be accepted between Nov and March. Exceptions are possible but will ONLY be done via reservation (online calendar here) and upon confirmation of kit being built and allocated. * GSXR retrofits are mostly retired. I will still be making some up and maybe doing some cool things like Big-Piston forks, but since they take so much time and effort to do, I will instead be providing Andreani, Matris F15k, and Ohlins NIX-22 for ready consumption. If you really want the GSXR option you may need to be patient. * Commercial items (Andreani, Matris, Andreani, Ohlins etc.) and shock orders (Nitron, K-TEch, Ohlins etc) will be processed in 2 or 3 business days and reflected in Paypal via the 'In Process' state label. I will endeavor to stock K-Tech and Nitron shocks, Andreani and Matris fork kits so dependency on upstream suppliers is mitigated. I would like to continue to be this forum's choice of quality suspension parts at good prices and I hope I can earn back some of the reputation I held previously. Thank you.
  30. 8 points
    So, the guy helping me with the adaptations just hasn't come through for me in a timely manner. I've been very patient but decided I just can't wait any longer. So, he delivered my bike in pieces to my house last weekend. He had taken it down to the frame because I wanted the frame, wheels and other bits powder coated gloss black. I started the build up on my own in a spare bedroom in my house last Monday. I've already almost got the bike assembled. Only things left are assembly of the wheels and installing the throttle bodies, wiring harness and electrics. I'll have it done within the next week. I've got a magnetic foot hold system (race tested) coming in from Finland this week, the Proshift electronic shifting is functional but the landing gear is not. If I have to use friends to catch and release me, I will because I want to be back on track this fall. Anyway, here are pics of my build up. Yea, I'm big time OCD and every single item is being spotlessly cleaned and any bearing or joint is being cleaned and freshly lubes.
  31. 8 points
    I picked up a leftover 2019 MT-07 with 0 miles otd price $7167. $5999 before taxes and all the other dealer fees and registration.
  32. 8 points
    Yep, it's official... I'm race prepping my FZ-07. Figured I'd start a thread I'm too old to race Junior Cup on my R3 in MotoAmerica, so I'm selling it and gonna try my hand with the FZ-07, since, ya know...I already have one that's decently set up (and age limits aren't a factor in the MotoAmerica Pro Twins Class). For race prep though, I'll change it up a bit... I had some deliveries already pics attached Changing my Yoyodyne Slipper Clutch for a Suter, and taking out my original AP shock link (which is just the dogbone I think they call it), to put in the Altus Motorsports set up (link + dogbone) I have some intake solutions which can't be revealed at the moment, and I'm gonna "massage" the motor a bit (leaving the bottom end alone). As far as engine management, I've been super happy with my RapidBike set up on my R3. It's never, ever been to a dyno, and made just as much power (or more in some instances) than "tuned" bikes, so I'm sticking with them. I have the RapidBike Race, RapidBike My Tune, and Rapid Bike You Tune waiting for me to install. Currently, I have the Akra Ti w/o baffle as far as exhaust, but I may be on the verge to do some prototyping with another manufacturer to start making a full system. If so, we're in a good position, because they can use my Akra Ti as a benchmark, since it's known to be one of the top performing systems for our bikes, and try to best it. Should be fun. I'l update this thread as it develops. - Paul
  33. 8 points
    We've been busier than a one legged man in an ass kicking contest but wanted to respond to Matt's post. I can't say enough about using these great forum vendors as resources instead of the cut rate cheesey hacks on eBay or Amazon to help with your projects. The level of support is second to none. I got daily texts and phone calls checking on progress, help problem solving, trouble shooting and technical advice that is simply non existent with the chinese/online/sell it cheaper crap dealers. These folks spend countless hours and dollars to develop and test their products, technique's and knowledge to give the rest of us what we seek. We, in turn, need to support them and not the peddlers of cheap knock offs and copies who forsake you as soon as your creditcard clears. I guarantee you'll never receive a phone call from China to trouble shoot your issue at 0530 trackside on a Sunday like from these guys! Blue Line Racing
  34. 8 points
    Well the Road America round is officially a 'Go' the end of this month and I've assembled a team of the finest pittards in the business. We'll run this round as a 2 bike team so I can get it adjusted to it's new owner and get the suspension dialed in. Our plan is to run nose to tail right to the front of the grid. What could possibly go wrong, right? The bike is done, The best thing that could happen now is he beats us on it while beating on it. I think we're in deep trouble. What I do know is that we're gonna have a GREAT time finding out! Sorry in advance to all the other competitors that will have their dreams shattered and go home wabbing, lol. BLR Edit: added a strobe,
  35. 8 points
    Aaron wheeled in on his R6 to turn wrenches this morning. Really nice to have a second pair of hands to do bodywork. This pic should give a good idea of the speeds I'm capable of generating, Got V2 put together, Fired it up, (make sure you plug your crank position sensor into the correct plug) Took both girls out for a run, She's a monster no doubt. Neighbors seemed a little unimpressed so we parked them after a few laps. The Leo Vince can on mine sounds crazy! I wasn't going to paint it but now I'm thinking I'll put tape lines on it and see if the body shop down the road will shoot me some cheap paint. Either something outrageous or plain white and the new owner can wrap it, paint it or whatever. Of course I'll have to swap motors yet when I get his done.
  36. 8 points
    TB's came in and these showed up, Custom valved K Tech DDS lite shock and 20IDS cartridges in re-built stock forks to stay with the budget(ish) build, This is gonna be bad ass fast n fun
  37. 8 points
    So the SV650 subframe is completed should be starting the FZ-07 subframe next week. Here is a couple photos of the project so far just so people can stay interested.
  38. 8 points
    I've been fiddling around with bodywork today, nothing serious, just trying to get the lines right. Tank is a MV brutale which works fine with the throttle bodies and gives me plenty of room for the airbox. Tail is CBR but I'll probably make something up that suits it better. I've got a RCS and some M50 brembos ready to go on and next week I'm going to strip the loom and have a go at making a race loom.
  39. 8 points
    We have wheels! I'm well pleased with this. The wheels are only loosely bolted on so that I can move the bike around but I love the stance and proportions. Hopefully things will move on fairly quickly now. The race engine build is pretty much there, just waiting on the cams. Slipper clutch has arrived and some fresh gaskets.
  40. 8 points
    Top of the morning! Its a dreary Saturday here in VA so I figured it'd be good start to delve into the early stages of this build. Obviously, the first step was to strip the bike down to nothing more than a rolling chassis with the motor still in place. The hardest part of that undertaking was the damn OEM airbox... Once it was stripped, it was time to take a good look at the subframe and OEM brackets scattered all over the frame (all of it had to go). I wanted the seat line to be as parallel to the ground as possible, kinda like the Jigsaw Customs XSR700 tracker build But trying to work around the curved subframe with the end goal of having a seat line parallel to the ground seemed too much of a problem to be worth the effort: So I bought some .065" wall 3/4" carbon steel tubing for my upcoming version of the subframe. I had to hack a bunch of the OEM stuff off first though before I could get off to a good start... Once the upper rails of the subframe and a good portion of the OEM brackets were gone, I took a few measurements, coped the 3/4" tubing, and got to welding. I went ahead and buffed down the passenger footpeg bosses, welded the holes up, and then blended them nicely into the frame as well: To satisfy any curiosity, if you've noticed the red tie-down straps, they were used in leveling off the bike side to side along with measurements from two equal points on the frame to the top triple clamp, so I could get the bike to stand as square as possible, which in turn would translate over to the new subframe top rails being as square as possible. It just required two holes to be drilled (one into my workbench frame, and one into a wall stud of my shed), two ratchet straps, a torpedo level, and a keen eye. Here's a better look at my home-made leveling rig Once I got all that squared away (no pun intended), I finished removing what was left of the sock subframe, and added a new cross member of the same 3/4" tubing mentioned earlier: Not being satisfied with the OEM crossmember of the subframe directly above the rear shock and still showing the passenger footpeg bosses on the INSIDE lower portion of the subframe, I decided to clean up that area as well. After removing the OEM crossmember, i left the 2 lower bosses and welded a 1/4" piece of round stock between the two for a cleaner and more simple looking crossmember: Once that was all said 'n done, the FZ had a nicer, clean looking subframe: After I knocked out a good portion of the subframe modification, that allowed me to start preparing for the seat pan/tail section. I sourced a huge sheet of .090" thick 5052 aluminum for the seat/tail section from a local metal supplier/machine shop. Luckily I've known the owners for a good while, so material costs have been pretty minimal so far. The first order of the seat pan/tail was to figure out the proper length and width dimensions. Width-wise the seat pan doesn't exceed the subframe rails which reach 7 1/2" at their widest point just before reaching the rear crossmember, with a very slight taper traveling towards the front of the bike. I kept the seat pan square because the taper is so minimal it wouldn't have been worth the effort in trying to mirror the taper angle on the seat pan. Once I had a 7 1/2"x28" sheet of 5052 cut, I marked 7 1/2" inwards from the rear edge, and made a slight scribe using a grinder and cutting wheel, and made the first bend with my 18" Harbor Freight manual press brake (if you don't scribe the material you're using, even if its really thin stuff, that brake doesn't do much bending). Luckily, the upwards angle of the tail's bottom was pretty spot on with what I had wanted, so that's all it took: With the base of the tail/seat pan up 'n running, next on the list is getting the shape of the tail roughed in. For the most part I just had an idea in my head, and just started cutting and bending material until I got the shapes I was happy with. Surprisingly, the lower side pieces I bent for the tail started out as just a piece of scrap that I originally just wanted to practice bending using the brake. Unbeknownst to me had I had coincidentally bent the scrap piece to go with the tail perfectly. After realizing this, I reverse-engineered the scrap piece, used it as a template, marked where the bends were, and voila had the lower portion of the tail fabbed up by luck! Once I had those members made, I cut and shaped the middle portion of the tail and tacked it in place: After that it was pretty much just cutting and shaping off of the top of my head, making sure left and right pieces mirrored each other and everything was equal when measuring from the center on outwards: After the tail was pretty much assembled and welded, I had a bunch of welds to buff and blend in. And where I wanted a nice contour on the tail I had to add a decent amount of metal so there was enough material to work with without removing much, if any of the base material. Also, when welding 5xxx series of aluminum I use 5356 filler rod (you can use 4043 filler rod as well, I just prefer 5356) and 100% UHP argon for the shielding gas: The process involved using a cutting wheel, various grit levels of flapper discs, and you guess it, a Harbor Freight hand sander to achieve smooth transitions of all the faces on the tail: And here's the Marco Simoncelli CB1100 TR tribute bike where I got a lot of influence for the tail and the idea for the lip on the rear of the tail (probably one of the best looking bikes I've ever laid eyes on): Anyways theres more for another day! Hope you guys enjoy. Feel free if you have any questions! Austin
  41. 8 points
    Ok ok, here ya go...this better?
  42. 8 points
    Business is good and we keep taking more and more orders for parts and helping with some really neat projects with people. Here’s the catch... at this moment we have a couple big projects to build for the coming MotoAmerica series that will need significant attention in the form of complete MA twins bikes For a couple weeks I’m going to have to turn down any custom work or building any items for customer that are currently of stock until after we complete the bikes for customers. I won’t be taking deposits for parts I can’t ship in a timely manner unless you want to arrange to it by email through the website. This is just a note for the community, we want to provide not only nice custom parts but a great experience as well. As many of you know I do this mostly for the love of the sport and it’s definitely not what pays my bills. Thanks for your understanding.
  43. 8 points
    Hey guys! I'm really trying to make this happen! Just to give you some background of how this all came about in the first place... It all started out of necessity to race my FZ-07 instead of my R3. One of my targets is to race at the Pro level one day in MotoAmerica. For a guy who was paralyzed and couldn't walk 9 years ago, it's a pretty big target - not only to prove to myself I can reach that level, but to show it's never too late to follow your dreams, no matter what adversity someone as been through. I was pretty successful with R3 at the club level, but there age limits in MotoAmerica for the Junior Cup class which makes me ineligible. I already had the FZ-07 so it was a more cost effective way to try and race at that level since I didn't have to buy another bike. When I set out to transform it into a racing machine, I wanted to partner up with the same companies I used in building my other bikes - The R3, XSR900, and Ducati Monster S4RS, pictured here: I originally wanted my FZ-07 to be naked, but the need to remove the stock plastic intakes to make clearance for clip-ons meant that something custom would have to be done to fill that space. After looking at what would be involved in making new air intakes that would allow room for clip-ons lock to lock, I decided to go another route. I figured I could use what's already out there for the tank cover, because that inherently would allow me to use clip ons. I've always liked the Paolo Tex body pieces for the Ducati Mosters, and since he made me a special one-off ALL CARBON version for my Cafe Replica Koncept above, I wanted a way to thank him. What a better way to say thanks then to use his race version nose piece and long belly pan. The race version nose piece looked like it would pair well with FZ-07 race tail section that's readily available, so I did some mock ups and was like, WoW, that works! However I quickly learned that the sides of the nose piece don't jive well with the angle of the FZ-07's radiator. I set out to fix it and ended up extending the sides to match the angles of the FZ-07, trimmed the shark fins to a flat finish, and really liked the end result. The nose piece overall is very tight, but there is clearance everywhere and the fit looks like a tailored suit when it's all in place. Since the nose piece has an inside ledge so to speak, we took advantage of that and built the fairing stay to accommodate, so the nose piece actually sits in place on it's ledge and then bolts right up. The bellypan however, was NOT going to work...AT ALL. When put in place approximately where it would sit, the oil drain bolt was in front of the bellypan! I basically hacked up the Paolo Tex belly pan so I could match the angles and styling, but made one from scratch so it would have that same tailored fit as the reworked nose piece. With all that fitted up, I realized there was just enough surface area to design a new livery (as opposed to a naked bike with hardly any real estate). Problem is, for long logos like my Tarmac Faction race team logo, the only place is really on the bellypan. But even then since it's way longer than it is tall, it kinda runs into the bellypan number plate. Because the design is very angular to begin with, I exploited that and figured I can extend the bottom of the tail unit to make surface area for my logo. Originally I was going to actually extend the tail unit and bolt it to where the passenger footrest brackets are, but then quickly realized that's 4 more bolts to remove when taking the tail on and off which holds the exhaust support and rear shock external reservoir mount...no thanks. I came up with a different approach, and made panels that bolt to those supports, but just tuck underneath the tail. Much simpler way to do it and everything can stay in place when you take the tail off now. So with everything ironed out, here is where I'm at... 1) Tank cover - readily available thru Altus Motorsports or Sharkskins 2) Tail Unit - readily available thru Altus Motorsports or Sharkskins 3) Tarmac Faction reworked Paolo Tex race nose piece - 2 complete units finished. One is on my bike, and the other is a spare. 4) Tarmac Faction bellypan - 2 complete units. One is on my bike, and the other is a spare. It's a repeatable part since the mold is made, and can make more on demand. 5) Tarmac Faction fairing stay, with provision for factory gauge cluster and AIM Solo 2 lap timer - One is made and on my bike, and material for 2 others to be made. 6) Tarmac Faction side extension panels - One set made, and easily repeatable. I still need to take my spare nose piece and have a mold made so it can be repeatable. I also have to take off the fairing stay that's on my bike, and have 2 more made with the material I have (one for a spare and the other to send off and have mass produced). Once that's done, I think making a kit would be a no brainer. I need to do this stuff ANYWAY for ME, so I have spares in case of a crash, so it WILL happen. The only thing is, how many people are interested in this sorta kit? For me, it started as me wanting clip ons and also wanting to thank Paolo, in addition to wanting control over availability of parts (racers HATE waiting on parts). From there it took on another concept in my head...can I make a custom racing prototype with unique styling and actually race it at the Pro Level? We are gonna find out! - Paul
  44. 8 points
    Adjustment Before beginning, your engine should be stone cold and in the service position with all marks aligned as detailed above. Recheck your valve clearances and be sure your measurements are correct. Annotate your findings as detailed above. Draw out a diagram of all eight valves separated by piston side and exhaust/intake side, and left/right side. Yamaha's suggestion is below (1). Calculate the hypothetical shim adjustment value. We will add this to the actual shim that's under the bucket to get the new shim size. An example is in the diagram above. Measured shim value - desired clearance = hypothetical shim adjustment Now we have to remove the cam chain tensioner, the cam chain, the camshafts, the valve lifters and shims, measure the shims, and replace the shims with the new correct shims. Begin by using a zip tie or mechanic's wire to secure the cam chain to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase (1). Remove the cam chain tensioner next. Begin by removing the cover bolt on the cam chain tensioner (1). Then insert a 3mm hex key and begin twisting counter clockwise until it can't be turned anymore (2). This will retract the cam chain tensioner back into itself so that it relieves pressure applied to the cam chain. The hex key stays in the tensioner during this process. If it is removed, the tensioner will immediately SNAP back out, so keep the hex key in place! You might need a trimmed or short key to accomplish this (see the thread linked above), because the airbox will be in your way as you try to unfasten the 2 hex bolts that hold the tensioner onto the block, so you have to use a hex key instead of a ratchet + socket. But then the arm of the hex key can't reach over the inserted 3mm hex key unless the 3mm is trimmed down. Also, even when wound back completely, the tensioner will still be in contact with the chain, pressing back on the tensioner. That means as you remove the bolts, they may be under some tension. Take your time and don't force anything. Once you have the tensioner off the block, rest it gently on something soft and use a careful touch with the gasket if you plan on reusing it. REMINDER do NOT move the crankshaft now that the cam chain tensioner has been removed. If you do, the cam chain will skip teeth, moving the crankshaft out of time from the valve train. Mark the chain pins and sprocket teeth with corresponding witness marks (1, 2). Double check all 3 timing marks before you do this. This will be your target when reassembling. Begin removing the cam caps (1). Start with the intake cap, then the exhaust cap. Remove the bolts in a crisscross order working from the outside inwards. Crack the bolt loose then move on to the next diagonally. Then return to the first side and crack that one loose, go diagonally to the other side, then crack the middle bolt on the opposite side from where you started, then get the last one. I removed the bolts evenly, about 1/2 turn at a time for each bolt following that pattern. I'm not sure if that level of detail is necessary, but I can say you definitely need to be even removing the bolts. You want to avoid the cap bending at all. A bent cap will apply uneven pressure to the camshaft journals and ruin the camshaft and thus the engine. Remove the cam chain from the sprockets - make sure it is fastened to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase! Then remove the camshafts and put them on something soft (1, 2). Now the valve lifters are exposed (1). Stuff a rag into the cam chain area to avoid anything falling into the crankcase (2). Identify the valve shims that need to be replaced. Work one valve at a time to avoid messing up which shim came from where. Pull the valve lifter and valve shim out with an extendable magnet (3). It should capture both the lifter and the shim. Be very, very careful that the shim does not fall into the engine - plug everything up! Working one valve at a time, take out the shim from the follower. The shims probably have the measurement laser etched into them, but you should still check with your calipers (1). Record the measurement of the existing shim into your diagram from earlier. Now that you've measured the existing incorrectly sized shim, calculate the new shim size (1,2). Add the hypothetical shim adjustment value calculated before to the measured shim size to get the correct shim size. Round it if necessary to get a size you actually have using the table below or your own judgement. When making this adjustment, bear in mind that you should be adjusting to the higher (looser) end of the specification range. The valve train will wear over time and make the clearance smaller and smaller until you need to do this again. Do yourself a favor and don't adjust the valve clearance to the smaller (tighter) end of the specification. (Measured clearance - Desired clearance) + Installed shim size = new shim size Coat the new valve shim with assembly lube (1) - the red stuff, technically speaking molybdenum disulfide based lubricant. Install the shim in the depression on the valve making absolutely sure the shim is in place square, not crooked (2). You'll feel it click into place. Coat the valve lifter ("bucket") with engine oil and replace over the shim you just installed. Then move on to the next valve that needs attention, repeating the process you just followed. When you're done replacing the valve shims, it's time to replace the camshafts, cam caps, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. Then you'll check your work by rotating the engine, rechecking the clearances, and if you're satisfied, button it all back up. Start that process by placing the camshafts back where you found them. Begin with the exhaust camshaft (1). Put the timing mark parallel with the cylinder head again. Grab the chain and drape it over the sprocket, matching the witness marks you made on the chain pin and tooth. Two things are important here: 1. You need to make sure the chain is as tight as possible on the exhaust side while draping the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket; and 2. do not pull the chain hard enough to move the crankshaft! These are competing goals, so take your time here and be sure the marks all line up. Remember that the cam chain tensioner can only apply tension on one side (the intake side) of the cam chain, so that's why we are pulling the exhaust side tight without moving the crankshaft. Coat the camshaft cap journals and the camshaft journals with assembly lube (1,2 - ignore that the intake cam is in place in this photo!). Coat the cap bolts in engine oil. Replace the exhaust camshaft cap, pressing gently until the cap snaps into place. Be very careful placing the bolts into their holes, taking care not to drop them into the crankcase! Tighten the camshaft cap from the inside out (the opposite of when we removed it), tightening in stages so that it is evenly applied. Be sure your witness marks are aligned! It is very important that the caps are torqued evenly and properly. I finger-tightened them 1/2 turn at a time following the crisscross pattern described in the last post until they were all finger-tight. Then I got the 1/4" torque wrench and continued turning each 1/2 turn until they were all torqued properly. The mistake to be made here is unevenly tightening the caps and warping them slightly. My intake cap was actually slightly warped from the factory, but I compensated by tightening the lifted side an extra full turn before resuming the gradual 1/2 turn process. The cap bolts for both sides are to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Install the intake camshaft, aligning the markings with the cylinder head edge (1). Again drape the chain over top of the sprocket, aligning your witness marks. Zip tie the chain to the intake sprocket by putting a tie through the holes in the sprocket. This is to ensure the chain doesn't skip as the intake cap and cam chain tensioner are being installed. Do not forget to cut these off when you're done, and when you do, do not let the tie fall into the crankcase! Replace the cam chain tensioner. It should still have the hex key inserted all the way, retracting the tensioner into itself. If it isn't retract it now by inserting a trimmed-down 3mm hex key and turning it counter clockwise until it stops (1). Make sure the gasket is attached with the protruding tab facing upwards and insert it into the block. Replace the 5mm hex bolts and begin tightening them down while the key is still inserted into the tensioner. Tighten them both to 10Nm or 7.2lbft. When you're certain the cap bolts are all torqued properly and that the alignment marks and witness marks are all aligned, go ahead and pull the hex key out. This will snap the actuator forward, tensioning the chain. This is what the zip ties were for. Once it's snapped out, cut the zip ties around the sprockets while holding the tie so they don't fall into the engine. Hopefully your chain didn't skip any teeth. Now that the camshafts are installed, the camshaft caps are installed, the cam chain tensioner is installed, and all of the marks are aligned, we can rotate the engine counter clockwise again. Turn it over maybe 5 times to spread the assembly lube and seat all of the parts. Now remeasure your clearances using the steps you followed earlier. The clearances should be as you calculated them unless you made a mistake measuring the first time. If something is wrong, now is the time to disassemble and make it right. If the clearances are as expected, turn the engine over a few more times until you're satisfied, and replace everything you removed. When replacing the valve cover, having all of the wiring zip tied up to the frame really helps. I had to dab some grease into the channel molded into the valve cover to get the gasket to stay put in the cover while finagling the cover over the head again. If you do this, apply it sparingly and wipe off any excess that smushes out of the sides. You should use gasket sealer to do this but I didn't want the rubber to stick permanently. To be clear, do not put any sealant between the rubber gasket and the cylinder head! That interface should be bone dry and clean. You'll have to push in one end of the cover, then pivot up the other end of the cover up and over the camshaft caps. The crankcase breather hose connection is a real bitch because it interferes with the useless long bolts on the ECU tray above the engine. Wear some gloves. When it's time to tighten the valve cover, tighten in stages to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Reinstall the crankshaft end cover making sure the rubber O-ring is clean (10Nm or 7.2lbft), and the timing mark access bolt (15Nm or 11lbft). Install the cam chain cover bolt (7Nm or 5.1lbft). Replace everything else you took off. Remember to twist your gas tank back the way it came, and don't forget to plug in the fuel pump, the air sensor (the plug on the front of the gas tank), the fan motor, and the ignition coils back to their original places. You just saved a few hundred bucks, and more importantly, you've earned your man card. Have a beer (or 4) to celebrate!
  45. 8 points
    When I get back from the track later in the week I'll put a how to up for a rotor upgrade. We did a 3 hour endurance race today. Finished 4th in class (9) and 13th overall of 23 teams. I'll take that. We ran out of gas 100 yards from the finish line at the checkered flag and coasted across dead in the water, lol. Just like we planned it Our team, that's me, Tony and Nate, each on our own bikes. We led or were in second for first half of the race before a red flag and restart. Then started to falter a bit. Oh well, had a blast. More racing tommorow and a track day Monday, woot!
  46. 8 points
    I'm fabricating a ram-air intake this winter. Here is the ram-air intake plenum. It bolts to the Hordpower velocity stack plate. More details to follow.
  47. 8 points
    I know I owe you all a full review of the Corbin gunfighter with pictures but I'm holding off until I get some more saddle time. But I thought I'd at least offer my thoughts on it after my first ride of 165 miles (265km) in one day @Beemer and I took earlier this week. Lets get this out of the way first thing. I'm not ever going to say that the gunfighter is as comfortable as a recliner, but it is far and away more comfortable than the factory vinyl covered plank. It's sturdy in it's build quality but it does show signs on the underside of it's hand built status. It mounts to the bike with less effort than the factory pillion seat. Removing it takes a small amount of downward pressure on the seat to allow the key to turn and release the seat latch. Once the seat is mounted it doesn't look out of place on the FZ-07. After a day trip of 3+ hours of straight saddle time riding in primarily city traffic followed by a lunch break and then another 1+ hour of primarily 80-85mph highway speeds I've already decided I'll never go back to the factory plank. The factory plank would leave me with two painful pressure points, one on each butt cheek. The Corbin saddle removed those pressure points completely due to it's dished shape in that area. My weight is spread more across the entire saddle rather than on just two points. The factory plank never really gave me any way to adjust my seating position to anything that would be less painful due to it's flat shape. The Corbin saddle allowed me more options in my seating position if needed. The rise on the rear of the pilot's position on the Corbin saddle was very nice in that it gave me an anchor point during spirited acceleration that allowed for a much more relaxed grip on the tank and the bars . The rise never intruded during normal riding. As expected, the initial plush feel of the seat was backed up by a supportive substructure foam that my 250lb (113kg) frame was unable to bottom out even over potholes. The real leather of the Corbin saddle is not slippery but didn't hinder movement as needed. But then I never had issue in this area with the vinyl cover factory plank either. The more crowned shape up by the tank would lead me to believe that sliding side to side during knee dragging jaunts wouldn't be an issue but I haven't confirmed this. I found our lunch stop's padded booth seat less comfortable than the Corbin saddle and was happy to be back on the bike. Nearing the end of the ride I was starting to feel some pressure on the back of my upper thighs but nothing close to being painful. At the end of the ride we stopped at a gas station to chat about the day and I found my self sitting on my bike since it was still more comfortable than standing while we talked. If it had been the factory plank. I'd have been much happier to stand instead. To answer a couple of questions I've gotten previously, It's hard to measure the seat height compared to the factory seat due to it's dished shape which makes it taller on the edges than in the center. But even with my 30" inseam I didn't notice that the seat was any taller than the factory plank but maybe felt at most maybe half inch taller? I'm still able to easily flat foot both feet at a light while seated in the normal riding position. It does feel wider if your slide up on the tank though. but for me anyway that's a good thing since I always felt that it was too skinny in that section. OK this was supposed to be a quick first look but I blew that didn't I? I'll do better on my full review. I'll have side by side comparison shots with the factory planks as well as shots of the saddle on the bike and if I can work it out, pictures with a rider as well. If you're still here I appreciate your time and attention.
  48. 8 points
    E39 to Helleland – Hauge i Dalane – Egersund – Tengs – E39 home. Today was the first summer day here, defined by the temperature climbing above 20 C. I left work an hour early in order to get a longer ride in while it was still sunny and balmy. After riding my Virago the short trip home and parking it, I brought out the MT07 from the shed. I proceeded to undo my Gore-Tex suit and donned my leathers for the first time in about 6 months. Nice. Earplugs in, helmet and gloves donned, ignition on. Like always, the modern wonder fired right up and fell to an elevated, but steady idle. This was going to be a gentle and sensible journey, and I was determined not to become tempted into speeding or risk-taking. Not and easy feat with the eager twin, but feasible. The stress began less than 2 miles from home, where a line of cars had formed in front of a roundabout. Oh, sure, I knew it was rush hour, but here? That didn’t bode well. Hardly any traffic coming the other way, so I gassed it past and got to the front, squeezed between the rear bumper of a Mazda and the front bumper of a van at the entrance of the roundabout, and headed for the highway a mile up the road. The moment I saw the highway, I knew this wasn’t my day; crammed with cars. I split the lanes and took the first exit, away from traffic, taking a back route to get around the worst of the pile-up of cars. Not sure if I saved a lot of time, but at least I escaped a bit of lane splitting. Where I joined the highway again, there was a line of cars barely moving all along the on-ramp, so I went around the whole lot. This was stressful. The highway was stilled crammed, meaning more lane splitting, but worst was luckily soon over. For the next 15 miles, the line of cars was moving along decently more often than it was stopped, but the whole ordeal was taxing and time-consuming way beyond my plan and hopes. Luckily, once past the last little town, E39 going south saw little traffic and normal progress could be made. When I reached Helleland, I turned off the main road and onto Eiaveien, a narrow, winding road that would take me over to the coast. Here came the first challenge regarding my promise of taking it slowly, but lots of sand patches on the road suggested I should adhere to the plan of not riding faster than I could stop within the distance I could see to be clear. Soon, a Prius appeared in my rear-view mirrors, slowly growing larger. Could I live with the shame? Yes. I put on the indicator, pulled over to the side and let the driver past and allowed him to edge away, retaining my former trundle. Høylandtjørni, a tiny lake, still had a thin layer of ice over much of its surface, despite the bike’s display indicating 19C. Previously, I had seen plenty of snow patches as low as 275 meters above sea level. Both that and the layer of ice were clear indicators of how long this winter had lasted. Which is much too long. Continuing along this picturesque route, the MT07 felt out of place, like something inorganic. An insect off another galaxy placed in an alien environment where it doesn’t fit. And while the engine makes the right noises through the Arrows full system, the throttle response is too immediate, too eager, to really make for a relaxed ride. The slightly sporty riding position and firm suspension doesn’t help, either. Something like an SR400 would have felt far more at home on this road at this pace. In every respect. Actually, if you plan to ride well within the safety limits on roads like these, motorcycles like the MT07 are about as suitable as a tractor mower for a 100 square foot lawn. A big race replica would be like having the same tractor mower, but without a lawn, only a jar of chives sitting in a corner of the patio. Sure, any motorcycle can be ridden slowly. But some doesn’t make sense, at least to me, when doing so. Out of the blue, without the customary warning signs, a stretch of the road had seen its tarmac removed and replaced with gravel. The stones were larger than typical, suggesting it was just a temporary solution, but to my surprise the MT07 dealt even with soft patches with aplomb, going straight and remaining stable at all times. One of the best bikes I’ve ridden on gravel, in fact. Impressed. Another car began catching up, a small van, and once more I stifled my ego and turned off to let the driver go past safely. But I was OK; the sun was still bright and the temps good. For now. Soon after, I reached the coastal road, and temperature dropped 5-6C in an instance. Heated grips came to the rescue for my delicate digits. After Egersund, I turned inland again through Tengs, and the temperature quickly gained back what was lost to the North Sea. Soon enough I was back on E39, now heading north. Uphill from Vikeså, I let the bike down to an indicated 60 kph in top gear (likely closer to 53 actual) and tested its acceleration ability. Result: 7 seconds from 60 to 100 kph indicated using about half throttle. Considering the steepness of the hill and the low rpm, that impressed me. Well back home, with butt burn and sore knees, I had confirmation of what I already knew; for this kind of riding, my Virago is simply a better tool. The MT07 is a better motorcycle, no question, but the Virago is the better cruiser. Amazingly, I had managed the whole 120-mile trip without rolling over a single fresh patch of manure. The smell, though, revealed that the fertilizing process was fairly recent. However, I’d rather endure the smell than have turd all over my motorcycle. That was also why I chose the route I did instead of more interesting roads; other options were guaranteed to be crammed with manure.
  49. 8 points
    Saturday morning practice, Sprint races today. Pirelli rep just dropped off our endurance slicks and felt he had to crash for effect... A lttle bench racing Saturday night, Heading off for the 5 hour endurance sighting lap, Strategy, Katie givin'er the spurs, And the team, "Slicks, Chics and a Lucky Old Man". Finished 5th in class (only 1 lap out of 4th with 135 laps) and 11th overall out of 23 teams. One meatball, you're welcome, for a pit lane violation. Oops. Shout out to Cornerslider who stopped in to say 'Hi', even tho he was working in the enemies pit (a friend's fz07r team)
  50. 8 points
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