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Showing content with the highest reputation since 02/08/2021 in Posts

  1. 11 points
    R1m LED turnsignal mirrors Sharkskinz upper fairing (modified) Eagle lights daymaker LED headlight / housing Ermax rear cowling Ermax belly pan Yoshimura y-series full system Rear sets Woodcraft clip ons with 3" drop So far Hand painted by yours truly
  2. 8 points
    The main swingarm tubes are tacked and tested fitted well. I wanted to confirm I took measurements correctly and it looks like I did. I still can shim the swingarm left and right up to .08" if needed, but looks good. The bends look to clear the foot control components fine. There will be a 1" tube trestle structure that I need to add once it goes back into the jig. The mount for the shock bellcrank will be bolt-on. That is what the 3/8" hole in the cross member is for. This will allow changes to motion ratio and ride height by changing location of the bellcrank pivot. Swingarm is at 7.5 inches over as shown.
  3. 8 points
    Hi i take my bike to test again this past Sunday and we make new numbers and new Personal Record 10.70@119 in 93 oct. I want to make 10.5 in 93 oct then use Mr12 again. I use Mr12 before and make 10.86@119 now with use 93 oct https://instagram.com/arturomt07?igshid=aoi4qkef5cnm
  4. 7 points
    I bought a 1978 XS1100 brand new back in November of '77 that I still have. Probably 10 or 15 years ago I did frame up restoration. Powdercoated the frame, wheels, forks, etc. Repainted, stainless steel button-head bolts everywhere. Replaced the big old tail light with tail light from a 250 Virago. Anyhow,. I was going through a box of pictures and found a few. I still have the bike. It's covered up in the garage now, resting peacefully. Just thought I would share some pics from days gone by.
  5. 7 points
    Finally rode it!!! The main objective was to test the new aero, break in my new suit, and just find my fun-zone. I don’t have any data for Buttonwillow, so I left the lap timer off and just spun some laps for my first two sessions. The new front fairing/windscreen combo worked flawlessly, and I was able to ride without worry. The new gen.3 suit by Mithos fit like second skin, and looked incredible! Matches my bike perfectly! For the next sessions it was game on and I was able to work my way up to speed and started to find my mojo again. Thank goodness!
  6. 6 points
    Hey guys! I finally made a little more progress on the bike today after too long of a hiatus. I spent about 3 hours roughly removing the motor today. I know its not much, but it's honest work Once I got the radiator and exhaust out of the way, it was pretty straight forward from there: Out the with the last little bit of Motul 300V to lighten the load: And voila! Now I can get to tidying up the frame a bit more since the engine isn't in the way: Since I got my quick fix in over the last few months and was able to sell my Ducati recently, those proceeds are going directly to this project. I figured since the motor is out, I can now begin the tear down and acquiring all the go-fast goodies needed to make this the bonkers machine it's intended to be! There should be some more updates coming down the pipeline here before too long, so thanks for following and I hope you guys enjoy! -Austin
  7. 4 points
    Hello forum! this is my first post on here, and I'm about to embark on an overly ambitious project. This project I cant find any other documentation of anything similar. If anyone has any questions or helpful hints, please dont hesitate to chip in! p.s. im no artist, this rendering took me 15 mins.
  8. 4 points
    Beautiful! My cousin had one back then too. I went 2-stroke, and still ride the 1972 H2 I bought in '78. This is a recent photo:
  9. 4 points
    Many don't like the round headlight, but I do. The crazy shapes of headlights and fairings now with the whole insect/transformer look just don't work for me. That look you have is timeless, never out of style and not trendy.
  10. 4 points
    Assuming you have only messed with the parts necessary to change the chain and sprockets your clutch should still be exactly as it was before. Try to ride it, it should be just like it was. It's normal for there to be a fair amount of clutch drag in gear with motor off. If running the weight of the rider and bike should easily overcome the frictional drag and operate normally. You should be fine.
  11. 3 points
    So that's what happened to the engine & wheels of my stolen bike...
  12. 3 points
    Right trestle piece mocked up. The clearance issue for the new frame pivot position is shown in close up. It looks fine now because the bushings are in the down position, but once they are rotated 180 degrees that's where it gets close and I may have to relocate or remove the abs braking junction block. No big deal, just something I have been considering.
  13. 3 points
    That's OK, @LivingADream13 no big deal. It's still a relevant topic. Here's my story: Last October I decided to get an MT-07. The used ones at the time were pretty expensive. Many were around $6,500. A new 2020 started to look attractive with the advertised price of $7,600, so I emailed a few dealers that were advertising on FB with the question "If I come in with my checkbook, what's the out-the-door price?" I was just trying to find out what the number was. I got several automatically generated emails that thanked me and said I'd be referred to an expert sales technician for immediate attention, but only one actually answered me. The sales person from that dealer phoned me and told me the price was $8,900. I asked if there was room to come down, and she asked "If we agree on a price, will you come in today with a deposit?" I told her that if we agree on a price I'll come in and write a check for the full amount. She said she'd call back in a few minutes. When she did, the price was $8,150. I knew the state sales tax and title/reg fees, so that that point they weren't charging much for the delivery, prep, etc., so I didn't go any farther with trying to beat them down. My wife and I drove down to Durham, I paid, and rode home on the MT. I had gone about a mile and knew that it was the nicest motorcycle I've owned. It's not the fastest, but it's plenty fast. It's not the lightest I have, but it's the lightest that has the kind of performance it has. It is the best handling of any I've owned. It seems to do what I ask it to with minimal input on my part. The riding position is one that I can be comfortable with for long rides. I've told friends that it seems like Yamaha has had someone following me around for a few years, learning exactly what I want in a motorcycle, and put that into the 07.
  14. 3 points
    My wife and I have the K-Tech Razor "Lite" on our R3's.... It is a much better shock than the Ohlins "entry level" shock. I went the Ohlins route on my FZ-07, and wasn't too happy with it. I upgraded to the K-Tech Razor "R" on my FZ-07..... In hindsight, I bought more shock than I really needed . Unless you are racing/chasing points/championships, don't waste your money (as I did) on the "R" version. The Razor "Lite" is much more than most street riders will ever need. Just my humble opinion-
  15. 2 points
    @DewMan Im hoping for a majority (~75%) myself. Will be using buddies place to weld the frame (hard tail was purchased at TC Bros. for an XS650) and do wiring and such, another buddy of mine grew up in a paint shop and is on board with the project so I shouldn't need to outsource much work, if any. Have some peanut prism tanks in mind for it as well that should round out the look.
  16. 2 points
    That's me as well. I am careful to do what it takes to keep it in top mechanical condition, but don't spend a lot of time washing and waxing. I'm even worse with my cars. I call them "self cleaning" because when the dirt builds up enough it starts falling off on its own.
  17. 2 points
    I would think that grease wouldn't survive the heat. I've always used anti-seize; just don't glop it on.
  18. 2 points
    Stock chain is natural, at least mine was when new. 520 chain will feel noticably lighter in your hand, but all sealed chains have a certain degree of friction that far outweighs the "drag" of the rotational mass. All oring or xring chains I've had seem equal in regards to the amount of drag the seals give. Xring chains from DID have noticably less drag in my experience. If you never ridden an unsealed chain ( non oring/xring) the difference is eye opening. Your bike will actually coast! It requires more dedicated maintenance, but if you need maximum performance, that's the ticket.
  19. 2 points
    Nice fabricating, wish I had that ability.
  20. 2 points
    Stock rotors up front are already floating. What are we aiming for here?
  21. 2 points
    Be aware that there are some sellers who after agreeing on a price by phone, when they find out how far you're coming from, will let you get far from home, then call to tell you someone else just gave them a better offer. It's a ploy to try to force you into paying more. A friend had that happen. He told the guy that they had a deal, and that he was going to finish the drive, and when he got there he was going to take the motorcycle, or something else of equal or greater value. The guy was waiting with the bike in the driveway when he arrived and the deal was made as agreed.
  22. 2 points
    I had a RZ350 Yamaha up till last year. It was in the garage keeping the XS company gathering dust, till I found out someone else wanted it more than I did. While not quite the screamer the Kaw was, it was still so much fun to ride.
  23. 2 points
    The Bike Have -M4 Full System -Power Commander V -Quickshifter Dyno Jet -520 Conversion -Airbox Removed -Extension in Swingarm (6”) -Front Lower and Strap -Sprokets at the moment that is all i Have and Tune
  24. 2 points
    I have found that CL is dead these days. Once they started charging for vehicle ads everyone migrated to FB marketplace. All you will find on CL in my region (coastal SE) is used car and bike dealers advertising the same 5 vehicles over and over again, really zero private party sellers anymore.
  25. 2 points
    No explain needed. Yap'in about stuff is just that, it's when you get the tools out and get to it, that you really learn somethingz*. You got the guts and the attitude, so stick with it, but also the smarts to recognize when you need outside help. * @mossrider wisdom
  26. 2 points
    I just discovered the new Honda Rebel 1100 today. I don't think I want to buy one, but I do want to ride it for sure. Seems that Honda transplanted the Africa Twin motor into the new Rebel format. It appears to be 86hp with 72 ft.lbs of torque for a wet weight of 487 lbs. By my standards, that sounds like fun. It is ride-by-wire with a bunch of mode options. Better yet, it's a parallel twin with the 270 degree crank same as the FZ/MT-07 which should make that 72 ft.lbs of torque interesting especially when you consider our bikes have 50 ft.lbs. https://powersports.honda.com/street/cruiser/rebel-1100
  27. 2 points
    Nice--I particularly like the pillion seat cover--it almost looks like a flame coming out of the back of your bike.
  28. 2 points
    I purchased a K-tech lite a few weeks back. Install was simple and it makes a dramatic difference with the handling. I no longer feel the shock bottoming out on minor road imperfections. Never really had handling issues, beyond the bottoming and subsequent rebound. The other thing I noticed was the K-tech shock was about 50 percent of the weight of the OEM. I am pleased with the handling but would have been more pleased in Yamaha installed a better shock during the design phase.
  29. 2 points
    Also try putting it in a higher gear like 5th or 6th, it will be easier to loosen the clutch plates while pushing.
  30. 2 points
    Can be that stiff, especially with cold oil/engine. Rock it forward and back to loosen clutch or just take it outta gear. If it's not like before and you can't ride it, something has been adjusted/moved.
  31. 2 points
    There is a compression release system active on #2.
  32. 2 points
    That's the intersection of love, adventure, and talent. Way to go RedR !
  33. 2 points
    But wait, there's more: Don't mind the crappy welds, it was a bottle of bad gas I didn't know about until I started welding : Obviously I ran into some interference with the design of the fuel pump mount, so some minor adjustments were made:
  34. 2 points
    Hey guys! I know its been a while but I have some updates for the project! Works been kicking' my butt lately but I was able to make a little bit of progress in the meantime. Here are some progress photos of the fuel tank:
  35. 2 points
    Hey guys I have some updates for the super hooligan project! First I'll touch on the side panels of the seat pan/tail. It was pretty straight forward laying them out and getting the shape I wanted. It just took a quick length measurement of the seat pan which would turn be the length of the side panels. I then laid out some lines which I thought would mimic the frame lines, and then cut out the panels. Once they were cut, I matched them up in the bench vise so I could fine-tune the rough shape and make them both near identical: After that. I tacked them to the seat pan to see how well the fit up and look would be, and was pleasantly surprised: Next on the list was to cut out the "middle" of the panels in order to install some perforated SS sheet metal for an aesthetic upgrade. I just followed the lines of the panels and left about an inch-wide border of the original material. I don't have any pictures, but I used a 3/32 drill bit and a few different small hand files to form the really tight angle on the inside front cut-out of the panels. After that, it was time to layout and mount the perforated piece to the panel. Unfortunately, stainless and aluminum can't be welded together (well technically they can but I don't have the equipment necessary to do so; thats a whole 'nother rabbit hole!), so I came up with a solution. I drilled holes through the panel and perforated piece, and popped aluminum rivets "backwards". That left the normally unexposed portion of the rivets exposed, so I just welded that portion of the rivet to the panel, smoothed out the weld, and bam, problem solved: The only thing left to do was put a nice smooth finish on the panels and mount them to the seat pan (notice the little notched detail towards the back of the panel close to the perforated metal) Hope you guys enjoy! I have a few more updates coming down the pipeline right now! Austin
  36. 1 point
    Looking for some opinions on chains...basically a "what would you do?" situation. I am in Canada and found a couple options with chains that I thought I would get some input to see what you all thought. Looking for a bang for the buck or cost benefit angle I guess. Keep in mind these are Canadian dollars: ThreeD (EK) 520Z - $260 for 120 links ThreeD (EK) 520GP - $308 for 120 links DID 520ERV7 - $329 for 120 links DID 520ZVMX - $100 for 110 links (natural) or $130 for 130 links (silver) DID 520VX3 - $108 for 110 links To me, it seems like the VX3 and ZVMX in Natural are the best bang for the buck but would like some other opinions. Also if I did a sprocket swap to a 16/44 or 16/45 would 110 links be too few and therefore should I opt more links and cut the chain? What does the stock chain weigh? I am trying to Google it and haven't found any definitive answer but I am still looking. Seems like a couple of the options above might not be any lighter that stock.
  37. 1 point
    Not sure if you saw this thread...it might also be of use to you:
  38. 1 point
    I run 15/43, it’s a cheap mod and definitely livens things up.
  39. 1 point
    I think it would work well if you are looking for a little more grunt and acceleration. Definitely not overkill. But I have only run stock gearing so far.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    If you ever get up around orange county NY, ride to the Hawk's Nest in Port Jervis, Rt. 97. It runs along the Delaware river from Port Jervis all the way to Hancock, NY. Beautiful ride on great roads. Look it up on youtube (Hawks Nest Port Jervis, NY). There's lots of videos and the overlooks are packed with bikers all summer weekends.
  42. 1 point
    It usually does. If you tightened down the tensioner fully extended, it is possible you could damage the tensioner or possibly the cam chain slider. But that is a guess. Did you crank the bolts down tight against the resistance? When I have people install the manual tensioner I tell them to rotate the engine in the direction of running, which would be counterclockwise on the left. I also have them turn the engine over slowly by hand to make sure the chain didn't jump time, only known of one time that's happened and the rider who did it realized it jumped. On the singles we do the tensioner swap when it is around TDC compression, cams off the valve buckets, avoiding the possibility of the valve spring pressure pushing back moving the cams. Not sure if there is a point in the 270° engine where no valve is in contact with the cams. If you heard no noise odds are good nothing happened. About the only thing I think you could have damaged shouldn't be anything other than the tensioner or sliders. If I ever have to mess with the tensioner I will put in a manual one. Once adjusted and locked down, no worries. Have them in all three Kawasakis and the SR500 had one OEM. Four OEM automatic tensioners turned to crap, two in a KLX650 and one each in the KLX250 and Zephyr 550. Not impressed with them or any others.
  43. 1 point
    I'm sure y'all will have an opinion on this:
  44. 1 point
    Please help me! Earlier today I tried to replace my chain and sprockets because my old one was.. well, getting old. I'm very new to the whole DIY scene but I've saved a lot of money on previous things like, fixing an alternator, my air filter, spark plugs, etc... just some pretty basic stuff, but today I watched a quick video as usual and just followed what the guy was doing.. took off my chain, and rear sprocket while my girlfriend cleaned up the inside of my rim (lol) and then, this is where I think it gets important: When I went to change my drive sprocket, that nut was fricken ON THERE. I did what the guy was doing and hammered out the nut squeeze lock thing, and stood on the bike trying to pry that thing off, my left arm was recently injured snowboarding however so I put it the stands and my dumb ass put it in 1st gear and starting yankin on it. I felt it slip, forcing the sprocket to move counterclockwise while the engine is off and in 1st gear. So it happened a couple of times.. I finally got the nut off, finished the replacement and everything else went smoothly, get the chain tensioned and all. but before I put the sprocket cover back on I was just playing with the tire a bit.... here's the problem: The rear wheel moves perfectly fine in neutral but when I put it into first or second, my clutch wont fully disengage. If I hold the clutch down, 1st gear, engine off, I can't move my rear wheel anymore. Engine on, and of course the bastard won't stop moving. Here's what I've done: Nothing, except look at the clutch and see how much my lever was pulling in the (I think this is what It's called) "clutch perch" ... It looked like normal movement to me. Here's what I've been thinking of doing: From the research I've been doing, people aren't as dumb as me and do their drive sprocket in neutral with their rear brake (my bad). Also, Is it possible I just froze the clutch? Then I could just try and get my rpm's up, hold my clutch in and get on the rear brake to try and "unfreeze" it correct? I really don't wanna remove my clutch cover but shet if I have to I have to.. If you guys have any better guesses please help! and let me know if you need any more information, this is my first ever post for motorcycles! Thanks so much.
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    Nice job, I really like what you did with your FZ. Tastefully done. I really like the color combination, A Lot Ed
  47. 1 point
    .Lookin really good Paul. Good to see you back in action on your FZ. Good luck this season. Ed
  48. 1 point
    That looks fantastic. Nicely done, I love the paint scheme.
  49. 1 point
    I did the exact same thing, and your description is spot-on. 2nd gear starts - no problem 3rd gear - noticeable more punch 4th gear is a do-all from 40-80. 5th gear has more compression braking which is great on the interstates 6th gear is as you say, no longer a lame overdrive Totally agree, this is what Yamaha should have had from the beginning. Combined with a 2WDW flash and the OEM R6 thottle tube, it makes for a fine riding machine. I did the 520 conversion and used the excellent DID EVR3 chain which helped even more. Who would have thunk one tooth would make such a difference!
  50. 1 point
    Yamaha Motorcycle Dealer Inventory The above link will show you dealer inventory in your area. The more inventory, the more eager dealers should be to sell you your bike. Out the door pricing is the number you care about. That is dealer fees plus the government fees (tax, license, and registration). If you can wait until after November, manufacturers typically have winter incentives (rebates) to help clear inventory for next year's models. OTOH coronavirus has changed everything, so I don't know how much inventory there is in your area. Out near Sacramento, CA there looks to be lots of inventory.
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