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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/26/2020 in Posts

  1. 9 points
    So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.
  2. 8 points
    My 5th trackday this season.
  3. 8 points
    95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.
  4. 7 points
    Life got in the way a wee bit but great progress the past two days. It's all together from an OEM parts standpoint. Bike is still in the house so no gas tank is on it but I turned the ignition on and hit the starter and no strange noises, smells or odd things so I believe I'm good to go. I'm currently in the process of hooking up the ProShift electronic shifting. Once that is done, I can ride it again.
  5. 6 points
    Oh hell yes! ProShift issue resolved. Worked flawlessly. Road Atlanta here I come first weekend in October.
  6. 5 points
    As time went on, I became less and less keen on the side panels on the rear of the bike, so I came up with something more appealing IMHO: The panels needed a little trim, but afterwards the subframe was showing and I wasn't happy with that look. So I proceeded to essentially finish chopping the subframe and creating a completely new subframe all in the name of aesthetics: The subframe is still in its rough form but overall I'm happy with how everything has turned out! Prior to tinkering with the subframe, I had entered the Coronavirus Bike Buildoff which Roland Sands and a ton of his sponsors kicked off earlier this year on instagram, and was a top 10 finalist, and it wasn't even a running/finihsed bike! So that was a pretty cool and humbling experience to say the least! Butttt......... I also scored a new steed for the stable. Not riding had gotten the best of me and I couldn't help myself any longer: Even then I wasn't happy with how it sounded, so I modified the Termis that came with it: She sounds too good now Anyways, Ill have some more updates in the near future! Thanks for following and enjoying! -Austin
  7. 5 points
    Well, I took the leap and made a spring compressor out of stuff I have lying around. Handtools and a drill press; I don't trust my welding "skills". Thanks for everybody's input. It worked!
  8. 5 points
    Details: I have a 2012 super tenere 62,000 miles, a 2017 fz07 14,000 miles and now a 2021 T7 1,500 miles. I like T7 best because has same range as the 07 with much better suspension and dimensions to comfortably fit adult size. Seat is good for day rides. 1000 miles first week no problem. Wish this virus would settle down so I can start tripping to Tennessee. When I get off the T7 and jump on the fz7 I'm a little disappointed but if I don't ride the T7 First I really like the FZ7. If you get the chance to ride one you will see what I mean. Its tall though. As tall as my super tenere.
  9. 5 points
    So we're at Brainerd International Raceway this weekend. I'm working up a new rear shock and linkage setup for the Indy round of MotoAmerica coming up next month. I replaced the broken header with a brand new stainless version of the original Ti Yoshimura head pipe. I have our club president and resident fast guy Brett (Ten Racing) Donahue riding my bike. We go out for a twenty lap tire test and set up run in a Trophy Dash on a fresh set of Dunlop spec tires to make sure we're hitting on all 8 cylinders. 43 bikes take the grid. Were in second and Brett's got plenty left for an overtake and run on the leader. Brett sets an unofficial lightweight track record and fast lap of the race at 1:42.346 seconds and is poised to win the race but the fairing stay breaks off at the steering head and the fairing falls down and sits on the front fender, blocking airflow to the radiator. Back to over heating. Maybe had solid 1:41's in him. He finishes the race in 3rd place, holding the fairing up with one hand and racing the bike with the other. My boy! Solid finish. An easy fix, glad it happened here and not at Indy. Broke from fatigue. I think we're ready for the deep end.
  10. 4 points
    Well, I dug the ole Motion Pro out and had at it. Dead nuts on. Could just as easily been off too. Good thing I did as it gave me an excuse to change plugs and check a few things that have been overlooked. Cost - $0, peace of mind priceless.
  11. 4 points
    When did the term trail braking come in to vogue? Why is everyone so crazy about talking about it. You're jerky as a new rider, but as you get comfortable you become smooth and you feel what the bike likes. Extremely few bikes extend the rear shock under throttle. I don't agree with feeding throttle while trying to drag the front brake. All you're doing is crowding the bike and bunching the suspension up. The very basic theories of putting weight on the front tire by using the front brake, and putting weight in to the rear tire by applying throttle can be observed in a straight line easily. It's intuitive simply due to weight transfer. You cannot transfer the weight of the motorcycle both forward and rearward at the same time. You just can't. Instead of trying to (magically?) transfer weight on to both ends of the bike simultaneously through front brake +throttle, you're far better off using the gyroscopic forces at your disposal. If you apply enough front brake to load the front suspension your rear end will be light. Don't force feed power to the rear wheel in this scenario. You're asking to lose the rear. Everyone knows this that has ever accidentally taken a corner too hot or yanked the throttle too hard mid turn ( especially mid turn under braking)...yet he's teaching to load the rear tire with throttle while loading the forks through braking? I can't agree with that. Throttle is for acceleration. Brakes are for deceleration. The bike as a whole can't do both at the same time. Never pull the clutch in during a corner. Keep the engine rpms at a constant speed and the gyroscopic forces will not change. This will make a bike feel stable while cornering. If you're coming in to a corner hard you can kick down a gear for extra revs/ gyroscopic forces to change how lean in feels. Gyroscopic forces want to keep the bike upright. More forces makes you have to tip in harder ( more bar pressure while counter steering) which gives the tire a very planted feel. You're leveraging the weight of the bike against the gyroscopic forces, and this creates a hinge effect. The gyroscopic forces from the engine are central to the bike, the bars are on the top, the tires are on the bottom. The harder you can push on the bars the harder that leverage can work through that hinge to plant the tires. This is why engine braking is useful to a point, but can be overwhelming in some chassis's. This is why slipper clutches were invented, but also why they kinda suck. Weight and gyroscopic forces are WAY more stable, reliable forces than your right hand solely attempting to brake and throttle at the same time. Braking wants to pull your hand forward while you need to roll your hand backwards to apply more throttle. Add countersteering pressure, moving body position ( wrist angle) and the fact that your body may be moving up and down from hitting bumps while this is happening....that's an enormous amount of dexterity to ask of a heavily gloved hand wrapped around a floating, squishy grip. No, "trail braking" while adding throttle is not how you safely corner a bike. Go find a long corner. At least 180°. Ride that corner over and over and over at a very relaxed, effortless pace. Do it until you can robotically glide through that corner with your brain completely not having to concentrate on anything. Now, pull the clutch in mid corner and see how gross it feels and watch how the bike reacts. Now, do that same corner again and lightly apply rear brake. Feel how the bike will turn tighter and the chassis won't upset. Now, do that same corner and apply only front brake. Feel how the front was to dip and the bike suddenly feels wallowy, due to the steering engine changing mid turn. The fact that he quipped at the beginning of the video " who here has used the rear brake in a corner and has lived to tell about it".....ugh.... internet, stop making stuff up! The rear brake is a very effective tool for tightening your line! It's much safer than using the front brake and upsetting the balance of the chassis! But the key is none of these inputs can be done abruptly. The key to smooth cornering is smoothness. The key to smoothness is doing nothing. You can't add several inputs to a bike at once, especially opposing inputs, and expect smoothness. Smoothly roll off power when approaching a turn, smoothly apply front brake if needed to settle the chassis ( not always needed!), smoothly apply rear brake if needing to tighten your line, smoothly release the brakes while smoothly rolling back on the power. You do this while smoothly adding and releasing steering pressure. Start slow, feels the bike react through your bars, listen to the engine, do it again - but smoother. Then do it again and again and again. Next thing you know you will be absolutely flying through that corner with complete control and total faith. But if your try to force feed several inputs at once - forget it. Braking inputs mid corner are slight corrections made necessary by road imperfections or rider error. It's not how you should be intentionally planning to attack every turn. Sorry for the rant. The YouTube Professors with no accountability annoy me to no end. Ride safe, y'all! I'm going back under my rock
  12. 4 points
    It's about to get real. Bike is all built up and my Proshift electronic shifting system is working. Just gotta get in the Hordpower airbox and she's track worthy. Yes, I have full bodywork that will be installed after a test ride to make sure all systems are go.
  13. 4 points
    Welcome to the Forum and congratulations on your new bike. Sign up for a basic riders course, you will learn lots of good information. Ed
  14. 4 points
    Oh, been in the warden's purse have you then... Too many folks need yelling at around here to leave just yet...Now get off my lawn!
  15. 4 points
    There's a lot of misinformation here that we'd like to clear up. Yes, you cannot modify our custom mapping or view it when you purchase one of our custom secured mapping files. This protects us from IP theft, and it protects the end user from modifying mapping in a way that will negatively impact the bike's rideability. All of our custom mapping is built on the dyno for each specific intake/exhaust system (and much of it is built using Active Tune systems), so the Active Tune should only ever be used for Live Correction. The Active Tune will absolutely not fight the effects of disabling the deceleration fuel cut, and the deceleration fuel cut should always be disabled on these bikes. The issue you're describing with stalling at idle seems much more like a false air/exhaust pulse stagnation issue than anything else. Poor sensor placement in the pipe could absolutely cause problems with any wideband system in any engine application. What you're describing specifically is not an issue we have seen before when using the Active Tune systems on these bikes, and we have flashed and tuned thousands of these ECU's. There is almost certainly a variable that you're missing that is leading you in the wrong direction. The Active Tune system is simply the "icing on the cake" for these bikes. Our custom mapping will get you 97-98% of the way to "perfectly" dialed in! The Active Tune system simply accounts for the 2-3% variation we see from one bike to another due to mileage, manufacturer tolerances, etc. For any specific questions, you guys are always best off just emailing us at 2wheeldynoworks@gmail.com, and we are always happy to help!
  16. 4 points
    Let's have some fun looking at some measures I took of the Yosh R77 pipe (and 2wdw flash) I installed recently on a 2019 XSR700. Product as ordered (and used in this review) Yoshimura Race Series R-77 Works Finish Full Exhaust for Yamaha FZ-07 / MT-07 / XSR700 w/Black can with 2WDW ECU flash. Everything was purchased through 2 Wheel Dyno Works in Kirkland, WA What I received Delivery of parts/return of ECU flashed I FEDEX'd the ECU, it arrived at 2WDW on a Tuesday morning, those guys got it together. They flashed the ECU and shipped it back out to me same day (Tuesday), using priority USPS. I received it on that Friday. The Yoshimura exhaust (also purchased from 2WDW as part of their package deal of flash and pipe) was ordered on that same Tuesday. They use PWS warehouses (who have 7 warehouses in different US locales). I received the pipe UPS on my doorstep the following day Wednesday. These guys make it easy to do business with. Thank you 2WDW. OK, so how do you know you have a good pipe, beyond the obvious of the materials they use? How about we look a little closer at the differences between what Yoshimura engineers intended a customer receive, and what happens to best practices/repeatable processes in the shop making those pipes. The XSR700 engine manifold specs (outside to outside) Outside to outside looking at the engine exhaust manifold, the measure is 128mm (please don't hold me too close to absolutes, I was using my manual calipers to measure and they were just a little short to make this measure). How close is the stock exhaust once removed, to the actual engine manifold measure? OEM Stock Exhaust Head Pipes (outside to outside) Not bad Yamaha, the stock pipe with cat box header pipes are outside to outside, 127mm. Only 1 mm off (closer "together"), completely insignificant for practical purposes. Let's look at the plane that each of the head pipes sits on, to see if they are on the same plane or if they are off, are the two planes parallel and how much distance are they off from each other? OEM Head Pipes Plane & Offset (if any) Are the OEM stock head pipes both on the same plane and exactly the same so they will align and meet the face of the exhaust manifold without one head pipe making contact before the other (that would be if the two head pipes were on different planes)? I was surprised, because the OEM stock head pipes are exactly parallel and on the same plane. Nice job Yamaha, don't know if every pipe they make is that correct but the one on my bike that I removed is. Yoshimura R77 head pipes (outside to outside) Yoshimura head pipes, are they the same outside to outside as the XSR700 engine manifold (of 128mm) ? Interesting, they are 127mm, the same as the stock oem head pipes measure outside to outside. Both the Yoshi pipe headers and the stock oem headers are 1mm closer together than my measure of the XSR700 engine exhaust manifold. Yoshimura R77 Head Pipes Plane & Offset (if any) Now it's getting more interesting. The Yosh header pipes are on two different planes, and the offset it 2mm. Cylinder two Yoshi headpipe, when it meets the exhaust manifold, Cylinder one will still be 2 mm distance from mating up with the exhaust manifold. Here is a lousy picture with my phone of the pipe with Cylinder two sitting flush on a glass tabletop showing that Cylinder one is "standing" off the table top 2mm. No reason to freak, 2mm is insignificant to our installation, the exhaust flange when torqued up to 14 foot pounds will pull these two pipes completely to the face of the exhaust manifold gaskets with no problem. It's only noted here, because that's the point of doing reviews, to find where best practices have a "spectrum of potential values" during manufacture and in final products. Strength of Yoshimura Head pipe flanges Pipes and flanges are well made, the head pipes are "flared" open after the flanges were placed on the headpipes, making a really smooth mating surface and flanges are free of any "rough edges" that might hang up when trying to insert into the engine exhaust manifold. The flanges are tig contact welded on to the head pipes, making a singular strong and straight header interface. What to watch out for If you have a header that has head pipe flanges that are significantly in different planes, it can make pulling the head pipes up to the engine more interesting. Or if the head pipes are not parallel (if they form a V or a W) that can make it tougher to get installed and into the engine exhaust manifold properly. Keep in mind the exhaust manifold gaskets are copper/ceramic and are about 3mm thick themselves, when judging "are my head pipes well formed" - or how far "off" from ideal they are). Also note, if the two head pipes are really off in different planes, that can swing the collector end of the header right or left, making it easier or harder to get the collector/canister into it's mounting brackets. Canister and mounting brackets All extremely well done, the canister is fine looking bit, the mounting brackets are simple, practical, and very strong. Don't underestimate the band that captures the canister to it's mounting point, it's all extremely secure once installed. Fitment Suprising how close to the bike, the Yoshimura pipe fits, they really pulled everything in close without any danger of touching moving parts. They wanted this to be a great fit, and the pipe certainly is that. Strong, great look. Sound It's practically a straight pipe with 12 inches of outerwrap insulation. Yes, it's loud, it's mean. The motor likes breathing through this setup with the 2wdw reflash of the ECU. It's sound penetrates your flesh, like accidentally getting to close to a rasp file. Plenty of install videos I'm not going through the install here, I was only interested in putting the measures of the pipe I received out there, for conversation and to help others judge "do I have a good pipe" regardless of the manufacturer. Hope I've done that. Yoshimura R77 pipe final grade (including the installation not documented here) Materials: A Assembly: A (especially nice welds and strength of the small crossover pipe) Fitment: A- I gave it the A- in fitment, only because of the two head pipes being about 2mm difference in their plane alignment. In reality, this means nothing, with all the other fine engineering and beautiful black canister, it really earns and A+ all the way around. I would do this pipe again in a heartbeat.
  17. 4 points
    For sure hitting that kill switch. Looks like that thing is pretty touchy on yours. Before / After you reach for your GPS.
  18. 4 points
    When it comes to electrical problems I usually resort to walking around the bike counter-clockwise whilst burning incense and chanting. That seems to have as much chance of working as me trying to fix the wiring myself.
  19. 3 points
    Magnetic foot hold system installed today. Hordpower airbox should have come today but will tomorrow. That is the very last thing to do and then it's track ready.
  20. 3 points
    I just figured I'd give you an update after a week and 300 miles. The reason I took a year to pull the trigger is that there are a lot of exhaust/intake/flash options out there and I wanted to get it right the first time, it's cheaper to do it once and do it right. Okay so my decision was made after checking a lot of dyno charts. Most people tend to look at the horsepower figures, the more important figures to me were the torque figures. Torque is measured, Horsepower is computed; that's why every Dyno chart show the horsepower and torque matching at 5,250 RPM. Both are important, but the torque more accurately shows WHERE you'll find the difference The 2 wheel Dynoworks chart with the Yosh full exhaust showed Torque gains from 2,500 RPM to redline with a peak at about 6,000 RPM. That's where I do most of my street riding. To go back to my 4th gear example, the bike will happily ride at 35 MPH in 4th but is still pulling hard at 95 when the Rev limiter kicks in. That's real world usable performance for me. Other combinations showed little low end improvement with big numbers above 6,000 RPM which is great for track riding. Down sides; I've lost about 6 MPG, but I'm still getting about 49 MPG and my wife thinks I'm up to something because "You smile too much"
  21. 3 points
    I am pretty sure 2917 was the first year for ABS in the US, abs only on the red ones. In addition to the sensors mentioned in the previous post they had an ABS decal on the front fender.
  22. 3 points
    If it has ABS you'll see these slotted disks on the wheels. Also there is an "ABS" light on the dash when you power up the bike that should go away shortly after you start moving when ridden.
  23. 3 points
    I finally got my front suspension set-up perfectly, and it feels great! I definitely didn't get things right the first time, so I wanted to take you all through my journey. Hopefully this helps others set-up their bike with Emulators. My goal is to have a sporty commuter: something I can both bomb twisty roads with and comfortably ride to work. Important Info: Rider weight: 192 lbs w/ gear Rear shock: K-tech Razor R-Lite, stock spring Front Internals: Stock Springs Maxima 15 wt oil Preload Spacer cut to 100 mm length (w/ pipe cutter) Preload adjustable Fork caps (Ebay, see pic) Race Tech FEGV S4101 Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator Race Tech FPEV AD4103 P Emulator Adaptor 41 mm Set-up: First Try: I Followed Race Tech's DVS for "B Class, standard stiffness" set-up Valve Spring: 40 lbs/in (Blue), 3 turns preload Valve Plate: 2 hole Oil Level (from top): 120 mm (empty), 65 mm (w/ internals) Well "standard stiffness" is definitely a relative term because this thing was STIFF. The bike felt amazing on a smooth road and definitely was super confidence inspiring on very smooth twisties; on rough roads the bike was hard work to ride-I'd get thrown around so much by even minor bumps, and big bumps were like body slams. I felt like a sadist riding that thing. There was very little dive with braking, so you could really hammer on the brakes. The low speed compression damping was so high you could feel even the texture of coarse pavement through the bars. Overall would be excellent for a smooth track, but not for the road. Second Try: Valve Spring: 40 lbs/in (Blue), 1 turn preload Valve Plate: 4 hole Oil Level (from top): 125 mm (empty), 70 mm (w/ internals) So differences here: 4 hole valve plate, reduced valve spring preload, and dropped oil level a little (not on purpose, ran out). Low speed damping felt great now. With the 4 hole valve plate I no longer felt every tiny crack or micro-imperfection in the road. It actually felt plush. The high speed damping was still way too high. The decrease in preload (and probably reduction of oil level) helped make the ride a little less harsh, but it was still rough for me. It felt like the shock could only travel a little bit and then quickly stiffened up preventing further travel. This was livable for short the term, but I wanted to smooth it out more. Final Set-up: Valve Spring: 40 lbs/in (Blue), 1 turns preload Valve Plate: 4 hole Oil Level (from top): 160 mm (empty), 105 mm (w/ internals) Before pulling out my Emulators and changing to a softer valve spring, I decided to play with my fork oil level. I noticed in my second try, when I went to adjust my sag, the ride height was too high even with just my <5 mm static preload. I didn't have a handle of how oil level affects forks, but it was an easy thing to try. Well this simple change was the missing piece! The bike feels AMAZING now. Low speed compression is still great, but high speed damping is way less, and is pretty comfortable to ride. There's now a little bit more dive on braking than past set-ups, but far less than with stock. I've gone for a few spirited rides now, and the bike honestly feels like a weapon. With the right suspensions set-up your bike can handle better than stock AND be more comfortable to ride. It's truly an amazing feeling.
  24. 3 points
    Looks great, good luck with that first event.
  25. 3 points
    Just installed my new exhaust day before yesterday. Man, it improves flow! I can now feel wind from the exhaust just at idle from a foot and a half away in the garage. Rev it to about 4K and it feels like a blow dryer! Definitely has reduced power a little now though since the increased exhaust scavenging has thrown the combustion out of whack, so for sure need to get an ECU flash soon. Also, now that there's no cat, you can definitely smell the exhaust. Here's videos with the Db Killer out, and the Db Killer in You know what, though? I really wish it was louder and more aggressive. It sounds like a proper, gentlemanly-yet-assertive exhaust, for the kind of guy that cares about his neighbors and wears crocs on the weekends, but I'm a little wild and was hoping for something that would turn heads and sound like a bada**. If anyone wants to get rid of their M4 slip on and do a trade, just let me know.
  26. 3 points
    ..and here I thought this topic was about my old girlfriend.
  27. 3 points
    Thought I'd pass along my 13+ years of racing knowledge regarding brake preparation and how even a stock system can be made to work awesome without spending big bucks. Little background knowledge first. I had a strong reputation as a very late, hard braker on the track. Word was if you were going to try to outbrake me, you will end up in the kitty litter. I also like a brake feel with STRONG initial bite. I do not like a progressive lever feel. I like strong right away and keep it there. With that in mind brake pad selection is the most critical item. So, here we go. Brake pads: I absolutely love Vesrah pads. They make different compounds but I like their SRJL pads. I always raced light weight bikes and these pads gave a super strong initial bite and stayed there. I could float the rear wheel using one finger on the brake lever but usually used two. Rotor preparation: This is more important than you think. Bead blasting the brake areas is the absolute best way to prep them. Second best is a rotor hone tool. Those can be bought cheap and used with a drill. Using a very low drill speed and taking your time is the best way to use this tool. Create a cross hatch pattern similar to when a cylinder gets honed. I would bead blast my rotors every time the pads got changed. If you change pad brand or compound you definitely need to blast the rotors. Brake pads can heat cycle out just like slicks can. I only run my pads to 1/2 way down and then change them. This also helps prevent brake fade. Brake fluid. I flush my brake fluid twice per year. I only use Motul RBF600 or RBF660. Best stuff out there in my opinion. Brake lines: Upgrade to steel braided or equivalent. Calipers: Remove the pads and make sure EVERYTHING is spotless. Move the pistons out a wee bit and make sure there is no dirt on them or a ledge built up. Make sure the retaining pin is clean and has no grove marks worn into it. You should be able to push the pistons into the caliper by hand fairly easily. If not, you have a problem. If you do all this prep at one time and are very thorough, be careful the first time you go riding because I will guarantee you that you will have a holy shet moment the first time you grab the lever with even a little bit of force. You will think you spent $3k on a whole new fancy system when in reality new pads, brake fluid, rotor hone tool, and brake lines will only set you back a few hundred dollars.
  28. 3 points
    Test ride yesterday went great until the solenoid for the ProShift electronic shifting system stopped working. It got very hot and stopped pulling. Emailed ProShift and I believe it is a set up issue I need to adjust. If the actuating rod can't travel full distance it will over heat. If that's the only thing I need to fix to be track ready I'll be very happy. Other than that, the bike was awesome and sounded great. I'm also still waiting on my Hordpower airbox.
  29. 3 points
    You’re making a mistake by blasting if staying with the same pads. You’re removing the adherent layer. Your pads don’t stop steel to brake pad. The rotor is just a carrier for the deposit of pad material. if you remove it you have to build it back up. That’s what beading pads does, deposits that layer. Rest is solid info. Check out Z04 pads if you really want to stop. They aren’t cheap but the performance is just silly. They only produce them once a year so it’s not always in stock but they are worth the cost of admission.
  30. 3 points
    Hola @DewMan: Here's how I did my port relocate: To make it possible I had to pull out the OEM vacuum sensing hose (the one that goes between the left throttle body nipple and the underside of the intake air pressure sensor) and splice-in a 4mm barbed Tee coupler: After reinstalling the modified OEM hose, I attached about a foot of HPS 3.5mm inner diameter High Temp Silicone Vacuum Hose to the center post of the Tee. I trimmed the hose down after I figured out the best way to route it: I opted for 4mm couplers and 3.5mm hoses since the throttle body nipples are 4mm (outer diameter) and the OEM hoses are 3.5mm (inner diameter), at least according to my measurements: After trimming, I inserted a 4mm barbed elbow on each side of the bike and finished with a couple of zip ties and a rubber cap. The caps obviously get removed when it's time to hook up a manometer: Here's where I bought the supplies: https://www.walmart.com/ip/HPS-3-5mm-Black-High-Temp-Silicone-Vacuum-Hose-5-Feet-Pack/244827654 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S8CBR1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07S9BTQH1/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used the 4mm rubber vacuum caps from this multi-pack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DZSZK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I didn't reply immediately when I first saw your post because it seemed one of your primary concerns was the longevity / durability of the vacuum hose and I haven't had the hose on my bike long enough to know how well it'll do long term. Also, I have no experience using the 90° screwdriver you linked. I did look at those at one point but prefer to simply pull off the tank covers, remove the front bolt that holds the tank on, remove 1 of the rear bolts on each side of the tank (leaving in the rear-most bolts so the tank can tilt up), then adjust the right throttle body using a plain ol' long, skinny flat head screwdriver. Note: I had removed the tank when I took the photo below because I was changing the spark plugs that day, but it's not necessary to remove the tank to adjust the right throttle body screw – at least not on my non-ABS FZ07.
  31. 3 points
    Hordpower has the dyno chart on his website. This is with yosh exhaust, intake and ecu tune (otherwise stock engine) compared to standard bike: FZ-07 The gains are impressive. I've just ordered the intake, looking forward to a bit more top end on the track.
  32. 3 points
    Screw that airbox. What a PITA. It's blocking my ability to connect a downshift blipper system to the throttle bodies that is part of the ProShift electronic shifting system. I'll have clutchless upshift and downshift when integrated. So, the airbox has gotta go. Technically not LWT SS legal without the OEM airbox but oh well. If someone wants to protest a paralyzed guy so be it. I am adding about 20 lbs of adaptations to be able to ride it so I would think that would even the playing field back up. I'm going with the Hordpower airbox.
  33. 3 points
    And life savings skills that actually work and make riding more safe and enjoyable.
  34. 3 points
    That test is no longer relevant for testing charging output. Went out with the advent of fuel injection. You can do damage to the charging system and ECU. Get a meter and read voltage with key on 12-12.6 volts, engine running at idle about 13 -14 volts, and with rpm at say 4k rpm max of 14.6 volts. Just from memory, best 1st purchase is a Service manual.
  35. 3 points
    I have Spiegler braided cables and EBC HH pads. I just use DOT4 fluid, I do not recall what brand I used. I am happy with the setup. Our brakes are actually R1 brakes from a couple of generations back so they are pretty decent when you get rid of the rubber brake lines.
  36. 2 points
    Nice! I was there 9/5. Possibly my favorite track that I've been to. The elevation change and ripping through the bowl are worth the drive
  37. 2 points
  38. 2 points
    I got some stuff here recently... Motorcycle MT .090 Sealed Series - Connector and Terminals Sumitomo - HM Sealed(Mounting Bracket type)...
  39. 2 points
    Rev Rev limiters are never removed, for the sake of the engine's life if the bike were to ever be over-revved!
  40. 2 points
    Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Good Use the old, 'the internet made me do it' defense...
  41. 2 points
    -MSF safety course this Saturday and Sunday -TST Tail Tiddy and lights installed -TST sliders on living room floor waiting to be installed -Cardo Packtalk on Helmet -LCD flip and blue LCD screen on way -R6 throttle tube on the way -Carbonsmith on the way -Peoject SC CRT on the way -Wife conviction for murder on the way
  42. 2 points
    Sounds like there may be an issue with the speed sensor.
  43. 2 points
    People with multiple bikes -
  44. 2 points
    Ktech 20IDS cartridges in the forks + Ktech Razor shock in the back, Yoshimura exhaust, CoreMoto bake lines, new fluid & pads, Bridgestone S21Rs, R6 throttle tube, replaced a few of the damaged OEM body panels (amazingly inexpensive) and rode the piss out of her over the weekend. What an incredible transformation. I haven't had this much fun in years. What a great little bike with a big fat usable midrange for the street/canyon/commute. WW/R
  45. 2 points
    For those who haven't synced their own throttle bodies and are interested in doing so, here are some photos of the process. It's pretty easy – especially if you've taken the time to install remote access tubes as illustrated in the postings above. Start by removing the fairings (a.k.a. tank covers), removing the long bolt that attaches the front of the fuel tank to the frame and removing the front-most rear bolt on the back of the tank, then tilt the tank back and insert a piece of 1 x 2" wood to support it. I also use bungee cords to lightly hold the tank in place so it can’t move when the engine is running: The wood provides just enough clearance to get a long flathead screwdriver onto the right throttle body screw. Please note: This is the only screw you should mess with when syncing the TBs. Next, set up the manometer on the left side of the bike. I use and highly recommend the Morgan Carbtune Pro 4 – https://www.carbtune.com/carbdtls.html You can get the best price on it directly from the UK manufacturer but it’s also available on eBay, Amazon, etc. Fans at the door suck exhaust fumes out of the garage: ... while a fan at the entrance blows fresh, cool air onto the radiator and engine. Start by keeping one side of the throttle body capped and connecting a hose and Tee to the other side. Doing this allows you to run the same vacuum source into two ports on the manometer to make sure they both display the same level. Once you verify the levels you can remove the Tee and connect the manometer hoses to the two throttle body ports – or in my case the frame-mounted remote ports: Start the engine and let it idle. When the bike gets up to operating temperature, adjust the screw on the right side of the throttle body as necessary until the two manometer levels match. Then twist the throttle grip a few times to rev the engine. This will cause the levels to fluctuate wildly. Wait a minute or so for the meters to level out again. If they match, great! If not, adjust and rev again as necessary. Repeat the process until they stay matched after revving: When finished, be sure to re-cap the vacuum ports otherwise the engine will not run right:
  46. 2 points
    Update: rode the fz07 on the first 4 session and the daytona675 on the last 4 session. Fz07 best lap was a 1:39. Best lap on the daytona was a 1:42.
  47. 2 points
    Hey @Jerzee! I should have been more specific as it pertains to the vacuum caps I used. The narrowest sections of the 4mm barbed brass tees and elbow couplers measure 4mm but the raised ridges (meaning the barbs themselves) measure 4.4mm. When connecting this hardware to 3.5mm hose, the connection is very tight. So tight, in fact, it's hard to separate the two. But that's ideal for most of the connections you'll make. When it comes to the caps covering the ports where the manometer hoses connect when syncing throttle bodies, I wanted a slightly less tight connection so I used 4mm (5/32-inch) rubber caps rather than 3.5mm (9/64-inch) caps. The resulting connection is loose enough the caps can easily be pried off without any tools but tight enough they won't pop off by themselves. When searching the web I did not see any 3.5mm rubber automotive caps – plus I wasn't sure which size caps I would need until I got into the job – so I bought a multi-pack to go along with the miscellaneous collection of caps I already had. As a precaution I bought some hose clamps for the caps but thus far I have not needed them because the 4mm elbow-to-4mm rubber cap is plenty secure on its own. That being said, if you go with 4mm rubber caps and want the added security of hose clamps, I got the best fit using 7mm clamps. 8mm clamps also worked – and are probably the correct size technically since the 4mm inner diameter caps have an outer diameter of 8.2mm – but the 7mm clamps seemed more secure. In regards to the 3.5mm caps you found on eBay: Those don't appear to be automotive-grade items designed for an under-hood heat environment. They may work fine but I personally would not take a chance on them. Link to the rubber vacuum caps I bought (I used the 5/32-inch size since that's equivalent to 4mm): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DZSZK6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are the hose clamps I used. There were quite a few variety packs available, which would have been more flexible and cost effective, but there were a lot of bad reviews for them. The Uxcell clamps below got better reviews but were not available in multi-packs: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TPL594N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TK7ZVTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  48. 2 points
    Tired of this even being brought up. Water droplets are too big to pass thru filter media period
  49. 2 points
  50. 2 points
    I recently set about doing a throttle body sync today, and needed to fully remove the fairings around the tank on my 2018, and realized there's basically no videos or guides showing this with the newer model, and it differs pretty substantially from the earlier models for which videos and guides abound. So, without further ado: Removing the tank fairings on the 2018+ MT07! First, remove the seats. Screws 1 and 2 are at the base of the seat - release the passenger seat, then remove these two screws, and remove the seat. Next, remove the screws on the sides of the scoops: Then the screws at the front of the scoops. Note, only the marked screws (one on each side) not the silver screws. Then you can pop the scoops off. Pull out at the bottom first to release the big pins in the rubber grommets (see photos) then pop out the clips along the top of the scoop. Because you've taken the pins on the bottom out first, you can tilt the bottom of the scoop away from the bike just a little bit to help pop the top clips out (note their shape) - only tilt the scoop a little, you don't want to snap the clips off! Be gentle. With the clips, I find it helps to start at the rearmost one, and pop them out one at a time working forward. Now you've got the scoops off, there's just 4 more screws to go and you're done. First, pop the two screws off the top of the tank, just forward of the filler: Then the two screws at the front of the fairing: And it's free! There are no more screws or clips, you can pull the centerpiece and both side colored panels off as a single unit. You may need to pull the seat-side bottom edges out a bit (it sits on rubber bumpers attached to the chrome bracket that holds the back of the tank down, so you have to lift the edges of the fairing out over those bumpers) and the front edges by the forks need to be worked around cables. Just gently work the cover off, and voila! I hope this helps someone. The first time I did this, I took out WAY WAY too many screws, silly pushpins, and other such stuff. In fact, the only reason you need to pop the scoops off is to get at the screws at the front of the fairing (11 and 12 above). If not for those two screws, you could take the whole fairing off - scoops and all - in a single piece.
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