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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/05/2022 in Posts

  1. 4 points
    When I was a kid I used to watch my Dad thin black paint, oil based of course, with brake fluid and brush it on to his tires. They weren't shiny, they looked new. Surprisingly, it would last a really long time and would wash clean like any other painted surface. When they would start peeling a carwash wand would knock out loose and you could start over. I still like to paint tires to a degree. Growing up, you weren't cool unless you had white letters. I still don't like plain tires. Apologies for posting a pic of the mongrel version
  2. 4 points
    Hey wait, WHAT? Are you telling me I can live without Tock Tic or MyFaceSpace, seems like a heretic LOL
  3. 3 points
    My '16 would wobble the bars at any speed if you took your hands off. It was the tread pattern of the front Conti Motion tire doing it. It was heavier at lower speeds and you couldn't feel it at all with even one hand laying on the bars. I've been on some long trips where we were flat hustling. Multiple hours spent sitting around 100mph speeds nonstop. With or without luggage, the bike is solid as a rock. At long as I didn't have a Conti Motion on the front. It just didn't work with this chassis. So called death wobble isn't "a naked bike thing". All bikes are naked other than faired sport bikes and some touring bikes. If your bike has wobbles there's something wrong somewhere. It's not inherent , so don't let it worry you. Very likely it just needs a front tire or head bearings checked like mentioned above.
  4. 3 points
    Many years ago I spent an hour or two in a ski boat on the Wye River, off the Chesapeake bay. Then I got in my van and drove home. At some point soon after that I got out of the van to do something quickly, leaving the door open. When I got back in, I sort of did a running leap into the driver's seat, as I had done a few times before over the years. This time when I hit the seat I slid off and went down between the seat and the engine cover, getting somewhat stuck in that small gap. I was alone, so there was no one to laugh along with me. I realized that the boat owner, who loved to Armor All his boat seats, had caused my pants to get coated with the stuff, and that had transferred to my van seat! I decided never to use that stuff on anything. It's probably something like silicone oil in a solvent like alcohol.
  5. 3 points
    According to Bridgestone when I did a seminar with them long ago, the only thing tires should be cleaned with was water and soap. No dressings on them, most dressings will leach preservative out of the tire compound. They also leave tire treads slippery. The rep told us soap and water with a scrub brush and learn to like the flat black look of a clean tire versus the shiny black coated finish from tire dressings.
  6. 3 points
    That was an especially good batch of brownies I bought from those nice neighbor kids
  7. 3 points
    If you can afford to get both done, of course. It's a balance you see. The bike will be perfectly poised when both ends have the correct spring rate for your weight. Best bang for your buck for the forks is the Traxxion AR-25 kit. Easy install, no adjustments. You can add preload caps, as an option. Which I will be installing soon. If you plan to track the bike, a cartridge kit for the forks is the optimal option because of its adjustability.
  8. 3 points
    Finally, I been waiting for this. In my dreams... R7 aluminum swingarm in polished aluminum or powdercoat black. By OverRacing. Stock configuration, solid Japanese craftsmanship.
  9. 3 points
    VERY solid information here!!!! I got a "bad" tank of gas a few years ago. I knew it wasn't a good idea to buy fuel from a little convince store- that was out in the middle of nowhere .... I was running out of fuel & options though . My bike barely ran, and required "maintenance throttle" to even idle. I had the foresight to run that tank until the fuel gauge started flashing. I topped it off with fuel from a reputable/high volume station, and haven't had a problem since. That being said, I try to always run non-oxygenated/ethanol free fuel. Unfortunately, that usually means buying higher octane/premium fuel. When non-oxygenated fuel isn't available, I always go for the standard 87 octane, and my bike seems a bit "happier" with that choice. I have many years of experience working in an oil refinery. Todays' standard of "quality fuel" is garbage compared to as little as 20 years ago . High-pressure EFI systems mask just how poor todays fuel is. My personal opinion is that ethanol increases profits for oil refineries- at the cost of being very hard on the fuel systems components. I used to have a station close to my home that had non-oxygenated/ethanol-free fuel available in 87 octane. That was ALWAYS my go-to station (they since went out of business). I know with my standard/stock compression in my "07", that 87 octane is the best choice. I also know that ethanol is terrible on fuel system components. I'd rather run higher octane ethanol-free fuel (and have my bike run slightly less than "optimal"), than deal with failing fuel system components. I've even gotten to the point that I run 93 octane ethanol/non-oxygenated in everything I own that has a carburetor (lawn mower, snowblower, weed-whip, leaf-blower), and haven't had any fuel related issues since doing so over a decade ago-
  10. 3 points
    I thought you might have been told that you need to run high octane. I was just letting you know that Yamaha sent these bikes out to be run on 87, so it's not necessary. Do with that what you want as it was a secondary comment anyway. Modern fuels go stale FAST. Stale fuel acts exactly at you explained. Ethanol is the most prevalent octane booster used these days. Pure gasoline can't even reach 87 octane without additives. The higher the octane the more additives that are required. Ethanol wants to separate from gasoline while simultaneously sucking water out of the air. Dumping fresh fuel on top of old fuel ( I have no idea how long your bike sat previously) won't rejuvenate the old stuff already in the tank. If the previous fuel was stale ( volatiles evaporated) or water laden due to ethanol, all you can do is drain it or burn it out. Might be all you got going on. Or you got a bad batch of fuel this time. It happens. A lot. Especially with high octane fuels since most vehicles don't require it and it often sits in the station's tank longer, sometimes absorbing water all the white. Higher octane won't clean anything for you or "pep up" old fuel. I hear that claim often. Not staying you're thinking that, just throwing it out there because, again, I don't know what you've been told in the past and I'm only running on clues here and throwing things out there that may be helpful to you. Don't take things personal. People bring stuff for me to fix all the time and I can't do a thing until I know everything the bike has seen up until that point. I have upset people all the time that want to argue that they put fresh high octane fuel in their bike and therefore are convinced that it's the cure-all. They get mad at me for throwing away the expensive fuel they just bought, but then the bike runs better when I dump the water out of the tank and they go home with a healthy bike. So you can understand the correlations I made and why I asked the question and made the comment I did. Didn't initially want to write a novel on the topic, so that's why I don't asked one quick question and made one (possibly) helpful comment. Good luck on your bike.
  11. 3 points
    Sure guys! I will not make it a commercial product. The core of the operation is the housing you see on the throttle body. It contains a servo motor that drives the valves and a hall effect sensor that sits on a wheel that is driven by the original cable. So installing/uninstalling the core takes about 2 minutes. The most challenging thing here was to get good spring and feel in the cable driven portion. The servo part of it was basically just a matter of removing play. Here is the final version that was used. As you can see, the roller had to be stabilized with bearings and guides to make it "feel good" when you used the throttle, this was very important. It also had to be very "tight" not not jam up when you had the spring in. It also had to be very tiny, with the spring being under the roller you see on the picture as otherwise I would have to replace the throttle cables as the lengths would be to off. Below is a video of my first version getting the valves driven by the servo. This was far from working as a full system but still a cool video. The wiring got complex really quick due to all my features. It was also a PAIN to find all the connectors in the OEM bike. This is because I wanted it plug and play so I can just plug it in between my ABS sensors without having to modify anything. Below is a PDF of all the wiring. https://racetrec.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/RaceTrec_RBW_Harness.pdf All of this was driven by a ESP32 microcontroller, it had to interface with the bike via CAN and OBD2 to read things like current gear etc. The IMU was a integral part of creating wheelie control, I used a BNO080 and it worked really well. On the software side, the most difficult thing was the timing for the autoblipper, it had to be very precisely tuned which took quite a lot of time. Engine breaking was also a pain to tune. But I did really get it perfect. Any more questions, I am happy to answer!
  12. 2 points
    Just finished installation today. Bitubo rear mono shock model Y014XXT11. With Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 Axxion damper rod kit.
  13. 2 points
    I have the same mod's done to my bike @2wheeldynoworks recommend 91 octane to me for my akra-ti, @hordboy intake, stock motor.
  14. 2 points
    Yeah, I bet its tough in lightweight superbike with a stock motor. Now to your question. The characteristics of your flash should determine what fuel you use. I "think" 2WDW adds timing to the spark maps, which adds a bit of power but also requires higher than 87 oct gas. Did they specify a minimum recommended octane rating? If they didn't add timing, there is no benefit to running more than 87 oct and, because the burn is slower with higher octane, there could be a slight detriment (to go with the higher cost). As for ethanol versus non-ethanol, again, I'd look again to the assumptions used by 2WDW. Do they tune for alky-free gas or 10% ethanol? You need more fuel with 10% ethanol gas and less without ethanol. The difference isn't enormous, about 5%. When I set about tuning my ecu, I first decided what fuel (brand, octane, specific gravity, and percent added oxygen) I'd run and then tuned both my fuel and spark maps for that specific fuel. Because the fuel I chose contains ethanol, I don't leave it in the bike for more than a few days at a time, and I run the motor briefly on ethanol-free gas to get the water-absorbing ethanol out of the fuel injection system when I leave it to sit for awhile. I live on the coast in North Carolina, so ethanol-free gas is widely available to keep the boaters happy. I decided against pump gas as much as anything to assure greater consistency in the fuel; with pump gas, the characteristics change with the seasons and you never really know what you're getting. Whatever fuel you use, be consistent about it and check your spark plugs periodically for evidence of detonation if your timing has been bumped. Even with stock internals, since you've improved your intake airflow capacity with the Hordpower, have you considered adjusting your cam timing? Tech Article - Cam timing explained You can do it without pulling the head, and with the stock pistons and an unshaved head, needn't worry about valve to piston clearance (there is plenty).
  15. 2 points
    As long as you have a way to support the rear end of the bike (not the rear spools). You can hang straps from the ceiling, or a ladder. I have aftermarket rearsets, and put jack stands under them. Once the rear end of the bike is supported, it is literal two bolts that get pulled (at the top & bottom of the shock). The FZ/MT 07 is probably the easies bike to swap a shock on that I've ever owned-
  16. 2 points
    The Yamaha suggested torque is a bit higher than necessary. I've found 65ft/lbs to be sufficient. The stock nut seems to be the source of the problem that numerous people have experienced. I've got a titanium nut that works well but, unfortunately, I don't recall where it came from. I put a smidgen of anti-seize on the axle's threads and haven't gotten any galling.
  17. 2 points
    I prefer to fade into the crowd, with no unusual visual cues that might help someone I accidentally irritate find my vehicle later when I'm not around.
  18. 2 points
    Years ago I had a friend who used Armor All on his tires. It looked great until he came to the first corner. Apparently that stuff is slippery too.
  19. 2 points
    Speedo will be effected on non ABS bikes, bikes with ABS are uneffected as the speedo works off the wheel speed sensors.
  20. 2 points
    I have to give you credit for posting some unique ideas.
  21. 2 points
    Although countersteering is a subconscious action, it can be focused on and I practice countersteering every time I ride. Push the left grip to go left. Running wide? Push harder. We have all gone into corners too hot. Countersteering has saved me from dozens of corners, by consciously forcing the bike to turn. Or turn more. You are right that it is subconscious, but it is how the bike turns and can be practiced. If you are in an open area, and take one hand off the bars, your steering must be done by pushing or pulling the hand that remains on the bars. That is what INITIATES the turn. Take the other hand off the bars, steer with one hand. This forces you to observe countersteering in action, otherwise we just form a habit without much conscious input. With that focused knowledge of how to force the bike to initiate a turn, or turn deeper if it looks like we are running wide, we have tools other than "Oh sh*t" when running wide or going in too hot. The tires can take more lean than our brain tells us they can - and that is how to survive running wide. The Wright brothers had a bicycle shop before being the first in flight, and they spoke about Countersteering. Keith Code brought it into the spotlight with his book "twist of the wrist" in the 1980's. I knew Keith back then, he told me about it personally - and not too long after that it saved me when I was headed for a guard rail too fast. Practical application saved me from a crash, as there were no MSF courses back then.
  22. 2 points
    Gotcha. You might just try lowering the preload on the rear shock a bit (will lower the bike with your weight on it) and lower the forks in the triple clamps about half an inch or so. People on dirt bikes learn to slide their butt off to the side a bit before coming to a stop, they are much taller than the MT07. As for lifts resulting in odd walking - a lot of higher end protective riding boots are odd to walk in anyway. My Sidi have awesome protection against hyper extension and twisting of the foot, but are kind of like concrete boots compared to anything else. Almost like ski boots. I keep walking shoes in my saddlebag if I know I am going to Home Depot or something.
  23. 2 points
    I have the K-Tech Razor "R" on my 07 -(the one with the remote reservoir/hose). I have the K-Tech Razor "Lite" on my R3- (no remote reservoir). The "R" retails for $795, and the "Lite" for $495. If I could do it over again, I'd save the $300 and do the "Lite" on both bikes. Once it's properly set-up, you really don't mess with it- That being said- I race my 07, and use the R3 on the street. Both my shocks are set up to be very similar. I personally, like more rebound dampening than most riders do.... I set-up both my shocks to be 1-click out, from all the way in. The compression dampening is more for "fine-tuning". I've messed around with compression settings, and I didn't feel anything "dramatic" happening (at least not compared to rebound dampening). If you're a street rider, save the extra $300 from the "R", and buy the "Lite". It will work MUCH better than OEM, and is easier to set-up (less variables). I would also recommend that you buy the shock from a local suspension vendor/tuner. They will usually help you set it up for what you are trying to achieve (for free). I have a local guy/vendor, that helped me out with both the set-ups. You can spend THOUSANDS of dollars on premium suspension components (that look cool and all), but if not properly set-up, won't help you in the least bit ... Or, you can spend a few hundred dollars on "good" suspension components, and have them properly set-up. This is a thing I call the "dollar-to-fun-ratio".... It's not an exact science, but it's been working for me for decades -
  24. 2 points
    I'm pretty proud of this one. Switched my gray/red pillowtops to black/gray. The red fluo stickers from Hooligan were the contrast I needed to be perfect.
  25. 2 points
    For street riding, I'd recommend the Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit. It gets you 99% of what a cartridge kit will, but less than half the cost. I race my "07" at the club level (with the AR-25 kit), and this does just fine
  26. 2 points
    I have my shock length set at 315mm eye to eye, suits me well, bike turns quicker, stability ok, handlebars can get a little exited under hard acceleration on bumpy roads and at high speeds (100 mph +) when your body is catching a lot of wind and making the front light, easily remedied by hunching down over the front. All adds to the fun.
  27. 2 points
    It seems to me the stator on this bike is rather frail, and can't take a left side crash/drop. I can get you a link to buy the service manual, same place I bought it. No idea where the PDF files are. According to service manual article 8-141. Check stator coil resistance. It should be at 0.128 ohms to 0.192 ohms. Firstly, disconnect the negative battery cable for safety purposes. Then disconnect the stator coil coupler which is connected to the regulator/rectifier (R/R). The coupler is located at left side of the bike connected to the R/R. The R/R is the chunky grey piece of metal with cooling fins located behind the side fairing. There's two coupler's connected to it. The stator coupler is the left one. 3-phase AC, so it's a 3 wire check for resistance. In this example, Cody checks for both resistance and continuity as well. If the stator fails the tests, you gotta open up the stator cover and check the stator for physical damage ie. loose, broken wires. If the stator passes the tests, it must be something else. Good luck!
  28. 2 points
    Perhpas a throttle body vacuum leak? Check the caps for the throttle body sync ports and any air lines attached to the throttle bodies.
  29. 2 points
    You mentioned putting "fresh" fuel in the bike. How old was the fuel in the tank already? And 93 octane is wasting your money. These bikes run perfect on 87. There's zero advantage to using higher octane.
  30. 2 points
    My gluteus maximus would not appreciate LOL
  31. 2 points
    Hello! I no longer have my MT-07 and I have to say I do miss it quite a bit. I did a lot of mods, including tuning it up to 86hp. But one of the most enjoyable and cool things I did to my bike was to convert it to Ride By Wire. As far as I know, no one has done this before. The conversion allowed the following: Controlling engine breaking amount Cruise control Wheelie control (done with a Bosch IMU) Proper launch control (actually limits the power) Traction control (this was done like the MT-09 and MT-10 using the ABS sensors) Autoblipper Quickshifter Engine warmup Toggle between A2 and unrestricted Riding modes like a rain mode This system worked really well, since I no longer own my MT-07 I thought I could at least share it. Here is a video and a photo from when I was still developing it. Right now it just lives on my desk.
  32. 2 points
    The YSS MZ456-310TRL-39 TL;DR: YSS makes a quality shock for a “Grey Market” price in between iffy retrofits like the 18+ MT or 600rr shocks and paying for a properly set up guaranteed quality piece like the Ohlins/K-Tech $500-$600 It’s a 46mm shock, 16mm shaft, ~312-14mm in length, Adjustable length, Preload & Rebound, Nitrogen Filled. Single Preload Collar with set screw. Replaceable spring, probably rebuildable. Spring I received was 56-120 like K-Tech unlike the Ohlins which is 115. The packaging is very basic. There is Taiwanese everywhere but has everything translated in english. And it’s properly translated showing they care. Bumpstop has YSS molded into it showing they care about the small details, nitrogen valve cover has a paint mark for indicating if the screw was removed. Finish seems good, no visible imperfections although I question if the lack of coating will effect protection against corrosion. I’d also prefer it be a twin colar preload but at least it has another setscrew location in the back if you ruin the first set screw. Probably could fit a spare collar and get rid of the setscrews. There are no bushings on the mount like the Ohlin’s one which may cause wear but K-Tech & stock are similar. None of the FZ/MT-07 shocks have bushings on the clevis. I had the shock set to factory preload and felt it needed to be turned down a bit because my bike had no static sag. That moved the collar closer to my Hordpower intake. I worry about the clearance so I won’t be adjusting further until I have my suspension properly tuned. Riding Impressions Feels way better, spring is much better suited for my weight and the compression damping made a huge difference. Ohlin’s recomendeds 14 click rebound and Ktech recommends 16 clicks. I tried 14 clicks from full soft initially but that felt too aggressive for my bumpy test loop. 10 Clicks is where I settled on. Overall an amazing upgrade, highly recommended although it is further pointing out my lackluster front forks. Cost $341.83 shipped from Italy via Ebay, look around and you may be able to get one for $320. Bottom line Seems like a quality shock priced in between retrofits like the 18+ shocks or 600rr shock and paying for a properly set up, guaranteed quality piece like the Ohlins/K-Tech $500-$600. You are taking a gamble buying via Grey Market a.k.a. no returns, questionable parts.
  33. 2 points
    Well, I know people who spend $100+/month on phone services and another $200/month on cable tv subscriptions. What's $500 over the life of a bike? All depends what your priorities are. I don't have TV. My bikes are my entertainment
  34. 2 points
    Hi! I'm a seasonal rider also, and you did a lot of things right for long term storage. Did you use fuel stabilizer before storage? If I was to store the bike for 6 months or longer, I would have drained the gas tank empty. Or the easier option is to fill up with fresh ethanol free gas and add fuel stabilizer like Sta-bil. After that, run the bike briefly to allow the treated gasoline to run through the fueling system. Because gasoline degrades rapidly, old gas could cause starting or running issues. Also, filling the tank for storage prevents condensation and water accumulation. If you could get a front paddock stand, that could help with front tyre flat spot, but it usually fixes itself. Again at 6 months or longer storage, I'd prop it on both paddock stands. Tyre pressure gauges are affordable and should be used regularly. A mini portable air compressor is another must have, or a simple bicycle pump will suffice, but requires more elbow grease. Spring for a more pricy tyre pressure gauge that come with a long reach hose built in to easily see the gauge face reading and provides better reach to the tyre valves. Tyres should be checked BEFORE you go for the ride. Ambient (cold) tyre pressure will change as you ride the bike and the tyre heats up. Your tyre pressure will read higher now that the air temperature in the tyre is warmer. How far is the gas station? Checking tyre pressures at ambient (cold) air temperature gets you the correct PSI as recommended by Yamaha. Commonly called "cold" tyre pressure. I found with my MT, I typically lose about 1 PSI of air pressure in my tyres more or less every 2 weeks. I would change the oil and filter, but that's your call. If you're gonna send it to a garage for service, have them change the oil and filter, flush the gas, and check for rust in the tank. If the gas level was less than half full upon storage, who knows how much water has accumulated in there. This is all outlined in the owner's manual. Happy trails!
  35. 2 points
    I completed this build a couple of months back now, but thought it was time to share it with the group. I'm not one to document my builds as I'm usually busy with work/life/kids etc. so this is the first time it's made an appearance anywhere other than my local Facebook groups. Background: I've always had an interest in both road and dirt riding and so have been building "Scramblers" for about 10 years now. Started with a CB250RS, then CB400N, GS500, MT03 (660cc), Duke 390, and now finally the MT07. As much as I knew the MT07 would always be the perfect base for an adventure/dirt build, I was always a bit apprehensive about using my MT07 as it's been my faithful and all time favourite bike for the last three years now and also isn't a cheap bike to go awol on and turn into a dirt bike. Though I finally got sick of building Scramblers which just weren't quite good enough and so I bit the bullet and sacrificed my MT07 to the dirt gods. After spending countless hours on research prior and sourcing the necessary parts, the build itself was rather quick taking about a month from start to finish. The "kit", named so because everything is fully reversible and transferable to another MT07, is the following: - Gen 2 KLR 650 forks in the standard MT07 triples with Cogent DDC emulators, 200mm standard travel. - YSS SV650 shock, 175mm travel, revalved for adventure riding conditions. - KLR650 wheels, 21" / 17", running Motoz Rallz, and oversize 320mm front disc. - Fully functioning ABS retained with a toggle switch up on the handle bars. - Few accessories, screen, taller+wider bars, hand guards, skid plate, crash bars, ventura rack. - Plus a bunch of other bits and pieces, machined spacers, longer front brake line etc. to pull it all together. The end result is an absolute weapon off road and more fun than my stock MT07 was on road. It weighs in at 190kg wet, so about 10kg (22 pound) more than stock although that includes all the bolt on protection and the rack, so works out about the same. The bike sits about 75mm taller than stock at the sump with a bit more than that from the front end and a bit less from the rear so is canted back slightly giving it a more upright riding position. At 173cm (5'9) it's probably sitting at the limit of height that I can still manage off road although I have been riding dirt bikes for many years so am somewhat used to it. The suspension is dialed perfectly for myself at 73kg with the stock KLR fork springs and standard YSS SV650 spring and hits just the right balance of on/off road mix. Smooth enough when it gets rough, but firm enough for spirited road riding and preventing it from bottoming out. And with the altered ergos it wheelies like there's no tomorrow. I couldn't be happier with how this bike turned out. It's hands down the most fun bike I've owned over the years. My days of seeking out the perfect Scrambler are done as this is exactly the bike I was after. There's only one change potentially in the works. It might be about to become an XSR700!
  36. 1 point
    these are very interesting, especially at the price point. ive got the ohlins fsk108 spring / preload adjusters kit but i may look at this more. ill probably call them and ask about whether the lifetime warranty covers the gas portion or what the options are in the event of a failure
  37. 1 point
    2016 FZ-07 5,200 miles NW Iowa $6,000 Original owner. All stock except Galfer braided lines (stock routing). Includes your choice of stock mirrors or the Triumph mirrors shown in pics.
  38. 1 point
    I don't care what anyone else thinks, I like the white wheels with the blue. I'd just hate to keep them clean though... black is bad enough.
  39. 1 point
    Yes, that might also be due to the wire diameter. It's referred to as the gauge size (AWG). It's not intuitive, but a larger gauge means a smaller diameter. So a 16 AWG has a smaller diameter than a wire that is 4 AWG. The link below is a useful chart showing wire gauge (diameter) and the rated current depending on wire length. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg
  40. 1 point
    PERFECT!!!!! Thanks so much! I'll be adding this over the winter
  41. 1 point
    Showroom condition. I didn't care for the look so took them off when the bike was new. $60 for the pair shipped
  42. 1 point
    There's an adjustment point at the handles, then there's one on the left of the bike around your knee, I think it's off the actual throttle body. I was like 2mm shy of being able to use the r6 tube without adjusting the second point, crazy frustrating.
  43. 1 point
    I used lidpicker.com when I bought my last helmet and it worked great. They send you a kit to take measurements of your head and then give a list of helmets that will fit the best. It costs $20, but I think it was worth it. I got a helmet that fits well without having to do any returns. .
  44. 1 point
    <-- Part 2 'continued from Part 2 If you have been following Part 1 & Part 2, your motor crankshaft is already in position for removing and reinstalling the cams. Essential Knowledge Refer to the third row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 360" - this is the position for cam removal and installation (cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke). If the crankshaft has not been turned since the cams were removed, a check of the rotor flywheel timing marks will be in alignment, exactly as they were set before the cams were removed - aligned properly and with cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke (RED timing mark added for clarity). Sketches are views from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). Putting the motor in time, is a sequence of steps starting at the crank cam sprocket and working counter-clockwise to remove cam chain slack and align timing marks on the cams, and the final step of installing the cam chain tensioner and adjusting to remove remaining slack. In these sketches, the RED color indicates where the cam chain slack has been removed during reassembly. Keep a clear understanding that when viewed from the "RIGHT" side of the bike (foot brake side), the running engine will turn clockwise. The crank cam sprocket turning clockwise will pull "down" so to speak on the exhaust cam and in turn pull the intake cam sprocket, the cam lobes opening and closing valves in time with the crank motion of the pistons without self-destructing. Before the valve cover goes back on, it is easy to confirm the motor is in time by simply checking the involved timing marks, rotating the crank one full 4 stroke cycle (720 degrees) and checking them all again. And then check them again, and take pictures to send to anybody who cares, that you do your own valves. It is also obvious if the motor has not been put in time. If the cam sprocket timing marks are off by even one tooth, it is visually impossible to ignore. The most dangerous thing (imo) is not mistiming the cams, it's dropping something "hard" into the motor. AND PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. The 4 sketches above result with the drawing below, where the final step of setting the cam chain tensioner is complete. This is a motor in time, and if any of your timing marks are not aligned with the engine case as shown below - no harm done, other than you get to go backwards removing the cam(s) to get to the step where the first misalignment occurred. Prerequisites: SEE THE YAMAHA SERVICE MANUAL. Use assembly lube on the cylinder head journals (where the camshaft "sits" when operating), the valve buckets, the cams, cam caps - all the "metal to metal" contact surfaces where movement occurs. What does not get assembly lube can be wetted with engine oil. Refer to Yamaha documentation. WET THE CAM CAP BOLTS because the torque specification is intended for bolts that have been lubed on the bolt threads with engine oil. Position key tools within reach, and set both the cams on top of the cylinder head but back out of the way of the chain until they are needed (do not place them in final position). You want everything lubed and ready to go because you will be maintaining mild tension on the cam chain (starting with the chain between the crank cam chain sprocket and the exhaust cam). My disorganized organization - as long as your brain knows what is what, you're good. Pick up the cam chain with both hands, like a necklace. Shake the cam chain a bit, and it will "free up" a little more chain that may have been caught on some of the cam chain guides (important, even if you kept the chain on the cam sprocket, there still can be some chain entangled with the chain tensioner guides). Raise the chain, and you will feel it when it slides back on the crank sprocket, its a very secure fit. Don't try to muscle the chain, if you pull hard-hard you might turn the crank that is aligned for reassembly. You just keep a relatively small amount of tension on the chain. That results in a cam chain back on the cam chain crank sprocket (in RED). Most of us only have two hands, so if you're not a squid lets tie up some of that chain so it's less likely to slide off the crank sprocket. Leave enough chain free to work on the next step, setting & timing of the exhaust cam. Below shows the extra slack taken up by a zip tie, and the right hand is holding enough of the cam chain to keep it on the crank cam sprocket. Always while working to set the cams, be conscious of keeping some mild tension on the cam chain. It's not like it has to be tensioned every moment - I often let some slack into the cam chain while working on cams but by keeping it moderate, the cam chain stays on the crank cam sprocket. Next step, set the exhaust cam. First take a clear look at the exhaust cam and it's timing marks out of the bike. There a two timing marks, one at "12" and the other at "6". They will be aligned with the top of the engine case like below when the cam is set in it's journals where it rotates. And when positioning the exhaust cam, because it has two timing marks - ensure proper position of the cam by checking the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) cylinder #1 cam lobes "FACE EACH OTHER". Below is a picture of both the cams, facing each other, as they are when in proper position for removal and installation of the cams. Align the timing cam marks, and make sure the exhaust cam lobes on cylinder #1 are oriented to "FACE EACH OTHER". Let's begin the install & timing of the exhaust cam. We want to find the cam chain "rivet" (I will call it the "pin") that is in alignment with the top of the engine case, where the exhaust cam is positioned. I'm holding the chain (with the slack removed) as if it was wrapping around the exhaust cam gear, and that identifies the pin with the RED arrow as our target for cam alignment (the picture is taken from above and that distorts the view somewhat). Let's use a diagram to show it at the top of the engine case "eye level". The chain is coming off of the crank cam sprocket and is snug with no slack, and the RED pin identifies where the exhaust cam timing mark needs to point (it should point just above the top of the pin just like the engine case does). OK, so without losing track of the RED pin or creating any slack in the chain, hold the cam above where it will eventually sit and take the cam chain (with slack removed) and wrap it around the exhaust cam sprocket, with the timing marks on the exhaust cam pointing at the top of the RED pin like below. (Sorry, I can't draw "gear teeth", so the gear below is just the circle with the two timing marks.) TIP: I have heard you can use "white out" from office supplies, and put a small dab of white on the pin - and wipe if off once complete. You can also use "mechanics pen" (Forney White Paint Marker #70818) that is oil based - but my old eyes can't see it very well. And without letting the chain go slack (as you lower the cam down into the journals you must rotate it counter-clockwise to keep the cam chain tensioned with no slack), set the cam into it's journal seats where it belongs in the cylinder head, with the timing chain wrapped around it, without any chain slack between the crank cam sprocket and the exhaust cam gear. See what we did ? - we used the cam chain off the crank cam sprocket to "measure" where the exhaust cam timing mark needed to be relative to the cam chain, then put the exhaust cam into the cam chain at that position. The cam timing mark may be a little "high" (slightly above the engine case) because it needs it's cam cap bar to "seat" itself down a little further into it's journals properly. Take the lubed up exhaust cap bar (and read the Service Manual how to lube the cap bar bolts before inserting) and start the cam cap bolts in by hand. As described in the service manual, tighten down the exhaust cam cap bolts a small amount at a time, working from the outside to the inside, in a crisscross manner. ONLY FIRMLY SNUG THE EXHAUST CAM CAP BOLTS -you want them secure so things don't move but don't put any serious torque on the cam cap yet. FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR LUBING AND SEATING ALL CAMS, CAPS, AND PARTS. With the exhaust cam set in the head, the cam is both timed properly and it has no slack (indicated by the RED outline on the cam chain) below. Nice. Now let's do the install & timing of the intake cam. If the cam chain can be used to measure where the exhaust cam timing mark needed to "point", it can also identify where the intake timing mark should point relative to the cam chain. I already know how many cam chain rivets ("pins") away from the exhaust cam timing mark, the intake pin should be on the chain. We are going to simply count from our starting position of the exhaust cam timing mark pin, and that will identify where we want the intake timing mark to point. On the exhaust cam chain, start counting from our PIN #1. Count 31 "pins". Place the intake cam on the cam chain with the timing mark (stamped with the capital letter "I") between chain PIN #31 and PIN #32. Now set the cam in place, without slack in the chain between the two cams, above the intake cam seats in the head. Because the intake cam has cam lobes pointing "downward" toward the buckets, the intake timing mark will appear too high above the engine case until the cam cap bar pushes the cam down into the cam journals properly (and it will open some valves as the cam cap is tightened). When the cam cap is used to seat the intake cam, the intake timing mark "I" will align with the cylinder head. Place the intake cam cap bar on the cam, put the bolts into position but just turn it by hand a turn or two -don't try to push the intake cam down yet with the cam cap bolts. BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE STOP and do this. When the initial tightening down of the intake cam cap is applied, it will cause the timing chain around the exhaust cam gear to start to "walk" out of the cam gear (trying to slip a tooth). To prevent that from happening, we are going to proactively "bind" the cam chain to the cam gears so they can't slip, and we use a different method on each cam. To bind the exhaust cam sprocket to chain, you want to make a small "wedge" using some vacuum line, and run a safety wire or string or I used lawn trimmer line thru the center of the vacuum hose - it's the safety line so leave it long, in case the vacuum line falls into the motor you will be able to easily retrieve it. "Wedge" the vacuum line cushion down in-between the exhaust cam chain & engine case, and tie the safety line off. It should be hard to get it in place - that's good, it needs to apply some force to the chain, pushing it on to it's cam gear. That vacuum line is the right size to wedge with enough force to keep the cam chain on the exhaust cam gear. To bind the cam chain to the intake cam gear, follow the directions in the Yamaha Service Manual, for putting a zip tie around the chain and thru the "hole" in the intake cam chain sprocket (we could not do it that way on the exhaust cam gear because it has no "hole" to zip tie). Here is a blurry picture while I am putting a zip tie thru the intake cam gear hole and will tighten it around the chain, a very easy and effective way to make sure the cam chain is forced against the cam gear, and does not slip. Once both the cam gears are bound to the chain to prevent a skipped tooth, go ahead with installing the intake cam gear cap following the instructions in the Yamaha Service Manual. ONLY FIRMLY SNUG THE INTAKE CAM CAP BOLTS - you want them secure so things don't move but don't put any serious torque on the cam cap yet. This intake cam is "up above it's journals" and has a long way to go down as you tighten it (it will be pushing the intake valve buckets to open valves as you tighten), so go slow, tighten the intake cam cap small amounts at a time working from the outside in with a crisscross pattern, to bring that cam and cap down into the seats in a level, even fashion. Seriously, go slow in small increments. If you don't bring the whole cap down in small steps, you could "twist" the cam cap badly. DO NOT REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN BIND TO CAM GEARS UNTIL AFTER THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER IS REINSTALLED. Now, before applying the proper torque, look at both the cam gears to confirm they are aligned with the cylinder head. Go back to the pictures you took of the cam alignment before they were removed. Check the exhaust cam timing marks with a straightedge. The intake cam timing mark is easy to see, with the big letter "I" next to the timing mark. If it all looks good, refer to the Yamaha Service Manual and torque both the cam cap bars now. If the timing marks are not aligned, you probably already thought something wasn't right and now you can see. Go back if you have to, and do it again, making what ever corrections you think are needed. Here are some pictures I took just before removing the cams: Exhaust cam I highlighted the two timing marks in red - straight edge really helps see alignment and the intake is easy to see that it is aligned, even though my photo is from "slightly above". Get your eye down at the level of the engine case, and confirm those cams are in time, before going on with reassembly. Reinstalling the Cam Chain Tensioner and Not Following the Service Manual When the cam chain tensioner is installed it seems that it can "slap" the chain and knock the cam chain enough to throw a skipped tooth into the chain on one of the cams. But if you put binds on both cam gear/chains, it will not skip a tooth. So we are good to go with re-installing the cam chain tensioner. Retrieve the cam chain tensioner - it should be where you put it along with that special tool still inserted, keeping the chain tensioner retracted. If the special tool came out, just insert the special tool again and retract the tensioner by turning it counter clockwise until it stops - the fully retracted position. Follow the Service Manual and lube up the tensioner body with engine oil, and the tensioner arm - it is bathed in pressurized oil when it operates with engine running. Insert the tensioner into the cylinder head (with the special tool still inserted in the tensioner). Use a new tensioner gasket if you have one, and follow the Service Manual - it shows that the gasket is inserted in a certain way. Also the cam chain tensioner has a mark stamped on the body of the tensioner showing which side faces up, when it is inserted. The cylinder head opening has an oil port visible on the "in" side of the bore, and that's why it has to be installed (along with it's gasket) oriented as described in the Service Manual. With the special tool still inserted, remount the cam chain tensioner with the two outer mounting bolts, torque to Service Manual specs. Now we are going to do the initial tightening of the tensioner arm against the cam chain (the last part of the cam chain that still has slack). Follow the manual up to the point where it says to tightened the cam chain until it makes contact. Now do this instead of following the manual. Turn the special tool clockwise to the point where it makes contact, then snug the cam chain tensioner with some low-to-medium force - don't gorilla it and definitely don't follow the Service Manual (I think it says "turn it an additional half turn" - a great way to over tighten it imo). Just snug the cam chain tensioner up moderately firm against the cam chain guide with the special tool. Then take your thumb only, and press hard on the cam chain where it shows in the drawing below, between the two cam gears, and then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down. Now try to tighten the special tool that was already snugged with low-to-medium force. It will probably be easier to turn again for a small distance because you freed up some chain slack, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again. Then repeat - use your thumb again, and press hard again on chain between cams, then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down, but it will probably be less deflection than that first press. Now try to tighten the special tool again - it will probably be easier to turn again, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again. Each time you press on the cam chain with your thumb (and you see deflection in the chain), there is more chain slack remaining that you free up, and then remove by tightening the special tool again. But it will probably only need 2 presses & tightening. By the 3rd press, you may see very little or no deflection when pressing down on the cam chain. When that happens you are done "pumping" the cam chain for slack. But always check one last time to see if the special tool has been tightened "snug" against the cam chain guide with low-to-medium force. If you are more comfortable following the Service Manual, please do. You should always follow the Service Manual. Remove the special tool, and that lets the cam chain tensioner "snap" into auto-tensioning position. Then put the special tool access cap bolt & (new) washer back on the cam chain tensioner, and save your special tool in the toolbox. After the cam chain tensioner "snap" into position, you can REMOVE THE BINDS PLACED ON THE CAMS/CHAINS. Cut off the intake cam zip tie and pull out the exhaust cam vacuum line wedge, and don't let any pieces fall into the motor. Confirming Cam Timing To get this far, you have already confirmed that the cam timing marks are all aligned properly. But let's confirm it again by rotating the engine and bringing it back to the "Cam Rotation Degrees 360" in our crank chart. From the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) turn the crankshaft slowly counter clockwise 2 full turns and at the end of the second turn align the rotor flywheel timing marks again (RED timing mark added for clarity). If you feel any unusual contact or resistance while turning, stop and assess the situation. Now ensure proper position of the cams by checking the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) cylinder #1 cam lobes "FACE EACH OTHER". And now check the cam gear timing marks by checking the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). If everything looks like the pictures you took before you removed the cams for maintenance, you are done with the CORE VALVE ADJUSTMENT. Now get that naked bike back together and go ride. Enjoy.
  45. 1 point
    <-- Part 1 Part 3--> 'continued from Part 1 Essential Knowledge These 3 simple sketches are views from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). All 3 sketches show the cam gear's timing marks in red for emphasis - they are only stamped lines on the actual cams. First sketch, is what is going on inside the cylinder head as shown in Part 1. Third sketch shows a correct installation of the cams in the cylinder head. But without x-ray vision, the only thing you can see directly while removing and installing the cams, is the sketch in the middle. The intake cam has a single timing mark of interest with a large letter "I" stamped next to the timing mark. The exhaust cam has two timing marks. That's essentially it, simple to understand. So don't let the cam become complex when you see this (below) Just look at that picture and say "it's just a cam sprocket with two timing marks to align with the engine case". Because that is all it is. Removing Cams Refer to the third row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 360" - this is the position for cam removal and installation (cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke). Rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the Rotor Timing Marks are "ALIGNED" (RED timing mark added for clarity). Check for the cylinder #1 Cam Lobes Facing "FACE EACH OTHER". If they are not facing each other, continue with another rotation counter-clockwise of the crankshaft, until the Rotor Timing Marks are "ALIGNED". And repeat the check for cylinder #1 Cam Lobes Facing "FACE EACH OTHER". This (below) is the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). Check the cam gear sprockets, they should be aligned with the top of the engine cylinder head. The intake cam with the single timing mark and the stamped letter "I", aligned with the cylinder head. The exhaust cam has two marks, and they are highlighted in red for emphasis. Using a straight edge placed along the top of the cylinder head, makes it easier to see that the two timing marks on the exhaust cam are aligned with the cylinder head. Stop and look at the two cams while they are in time, before removing them. Take some pictures, from both sides of the bike, so you have a photo record of the cam gear timing and the orientation of the cylinder #1 cam lobes just prior to removal. And take some pictures of the cam chain tensioner too. At reassembly, they will be put back and will look exactly like they do now before removal. DO NOT ROTATE THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE IT HAS BEEN ALIGNED FOR CAM REMOVAL. IT MUST REMAIN IN THE SAME POSITION UNTIL THE CAMS HAVE BEEN REINSTALLED AT THE END OF MAINTENANCE. The spring assisted hydraulic Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT) needs to be retracted and removed. It requires a "special" tool, a hex wrench that has the legs shortened so it can fit in the tensioner to retract it, and remain inserted the entire time the CCT is out of the bike. Removing the special tool will cause the CCT to "snap out" to fully extended. The tool is 3mm hex wrench, cut down so the short leg is 23mm, the tool leg is 44mm. Short leg can be a bit longer, just has to clear everything as you rewind. Here is the link for making the tool. Removing the CCT, start by removing the access bolt in the center of the CCT. Insert the special tool and wind the tool counter-clockwise until it stops, this will retract the tensioner that is pressing against the cam chain guide. Remove the two outer mounting bolts, and remove the tensioner - leave the special tool inserted into the CCT and set it aside. Below, the oil supply port is visible in the CCT opening in the cylinder. If you have ever wondered if a manual cam chain tensioner can replace the OEM - here is the APE manual tensioner on left and the spring assisted hydraulic OEM CCT on the right. The APE tensioner "body" is too small, the bike will lose oil pressure if the OEM is replaced with APE (APE pn#YTFZ09-PRO). I'll be asking for my $$ back - they said it will fit (physically it does, but the APE body is .933" and the OEM body is 1.003". Using a new OEM gasket on the CCT is probably a good idea on reinstall. LET's ROCK PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. IF YOU DROP SOMETHING INTO THE MOTOR, IT WILL BE A VERY BAD YEAR. DO NOT RISK DROPPING A VALVE SHIM OR ANYTHING ELSE INTO THE MOTOR. Remove the intake camshaft cap bar. Loosen cap bar bolts in small increments working from the outside to inside in a criss-cross pattern, and remove the cam. Not necessary to maintain tension on the cam chain, but some like to go that route. The engine timing is going to get set on reinstall, and that includes positioning the cam chain on the crankshaft sprocket if it has slipped off. Definitely find something to prevent the cam chain from falling into the motor, but if it does, there is a bolt that prevents the chain from going on a deep dive into the motor. Continue by removing the exhaust cam cap bar. Loosen cap bar bolts in small increments working from the outside to inside in a criss-cross pattern. Remove the exhaust cam, and secure the cam chain so it will not fall into the motor. Below a dowel rod runs thru the cam chain keeping it nicely out of the way. Below is the two exhaust valves for cylinder #1. The left valve has already had the bucket pulled and the valve shim left behind in the valve retainer "cup" is visible. The right valve has not yet had the bucket removed. For removing and installing buckets & shims, the best choice is to have a magnetic pickup tool and a non-magnetic valve lapping tool. I use both a MotionPro magnetic pickup tool and also a cheap valve lapping tool with a rubber suction cup. EDIT: This is a more powerful magnetic pickup tool for pulling the buckets & shim together (1 x Mfg Part# CMMT98348 Craftsman magnetic pickup). You still need the MotionPro magnetic pickup for inserting shims in the valve retainer "cup", or pulling mis-shaped shims that get "stuck" in the retainer. Motion pro tool Part No. 08-0652 Lapping tool stuck to a bucket. And if you are an old tymer from the olden tymes, you go with the old habits. I have a 30 year old stick with a rubber suction cup on it in my tool box, because yes. STOP BEFORE GOING ANY FURTHER PLUG ALL OPENINGS IN THE CYLINDER HEAD THAT PARTS COULD FALL INTO. Only pull the buckets that measured out of spec, that need a new shim thickness to get back into spec. Before pulling any shims, make an organized place to put each bucket and shim, so it's clear what cylinder and valve they came from. The buckets go back in with the same valve they came out of, and the old shims will be used to calculate the thickness of new replacement shims. You can't do any of that, if the buckets and shims get mixed up together. Here is the "callout" I will refer to below. I will use the lapper pickup tool to pull buckets. A better choice is the magnetic pickup. Stick the pickup tool to the top center of a bucket. And extract the bucket Did the shim come out stuck to the underside of the bucket held there by the magnetic pickup? I used the lapper tool, and the shim does stick to the bucket most of the time. The magnetic pickup increases the odds the shim will come out with the bucket. What if the shim did not come out with the bucket? You have to go get it. And this is where the MotionPro magnetic pickup is the right size, to stick to that shim on the left, and extract it. Stick the MotionPro magnetic pickup on that shim and extract it. There it is, stuck to the magnet, instead of falling into the motor. Continue with the removal of the buckets where the gap measured was "out of spec" and need replaced. Once you have the bucket and existing shims extracted, next comes the calculation of what shim size should replace the existing shims. For this example, I will be replacing all the exhaust shims and none of the intake shims - intake shims were all within specification. Calculation of new shims Start by measuring the old shims that were removed. Here is a micrometer from Anytime Tools (pn# 201872), it's impressive how accurate and well made it is, for $25. Measure the shims that need replaced to get back into the valve clearance specification. Disregard if the shim has laser etching that says what size it's supposed to be. We don't care what it says it is, we care what it measures. Same goes for every shim you buy, new or used, measure them. Below is the sample calculation. The ideal new shim size is 1.67mm, but standard shim sizes are only available in 1.65mm and 1.70mm. If the 170mm is chosen, the new "valve clearance" is 0.24mm (on the edge of being too tight) or if the 165mm is chosen, the new "valve clearance" is 0.29mm (on the edge of being too loose). What to do? Use 7.48mm diameter shims from Pro X, they have standard sizes and shims in "intermediate" sizes. In the calculation above, choosing the Pro X 1.675mm shim (when standard shim sizes are "too gross") will result in a new clearance of 0.265mm, in the middle of the Yamaha specification for exhaust valves (0.24mm -> 0.30mm) . Keep this in mind that there are more choices in shims sizes with Pro X (when needed) . Use this example and calculate what shim sizes you need to order, and get them on the way (about $2 each from Pro X suppliers- Pro X has standard sizes and "intermediate" sizes for same price). Installing new shims Once the new shims are in hand, use the MotionPro magnetic pickup to insert the new shims. Put the replacement shim on the MotionPro magnetic pickup, with the lazer etching side of the shim stuck to the magnet. Dash the valve "cup"/stem with a small amount of assembly lube. A small amount, not this flood. I had things in and out multiple times and got overboard with the lube. Place the new shim in the valve retainer "cup" securely... Slide the MP pickup tool sideways, like spreading butter on a bagel, slide the tool right off the side of the valve retainer, leaving the shim securely in the cup. Put all the buckets back in the motor with the same valve they came out of, but with the new size shim. To place the bucket over this valve & shim, use the rubber lapping tool. NO MAGNETICS - if you use a magnetic tool, as you slide the bucket into place the magnet could pull that shim out of the cup (under the bucket), and you would not know (until you started the motor). Wet the rubber cup with a little oil and wet the bucket with a small amount of assembly lube outside, and a small dash of lube inside the bucket where the shim will make contact, and "stick" the rubber tool on the bucket. Any "dry" spots on the bucket, wet with engine oil. and slide the bucket back into the head, you can twirl it between your fingers and it will slide right in. If you use your hand instead of the lapper tool, it will "bind". Let the rubber cup tool be free between your fingers to find it's own way as it slides into place. Continue, replacing the old shims with new, and the buckets matched with the bore in the head they came out of. Once you have the new shims and buckets back in the head, on to Part 3 - Reassembly of the cams.
  46. 1 point
    So the full fairings seem to be good for approx. 8 mph on my bike. Last year I would top out at 116 mph on the front straight, this year I max out at 124 mph. No other mechanical changes other than the slipper clutch. Aerodynamics seem to really work Ed
  47. 1 point
    Listen to these guys and don't buy in to Dave Moss.
  48. 1 point
  49. 1 point
    I took some pictures of what you can expect. I only have my 2014 MT-07 for reference, but I think there are no differences to newer models in this area of wiring. The negative black measuring tip of the digital multimeter is clamped to the negative battery terminal. (A blank spot at the metal frame is also a possible spot for negative ground connection) Instead of a gauge, a simple 12V bulb with cables attached would also work and glow. 1. with the ignition (or "main switch", as the Japanese manual calls it) turned on, 10A "signal" fuse removed, the upper terminal of the 10A signal system fuse delivers battery voltage. It is connected directly to the main switch. With this result, we know that the main switch and the cable connection between main switch an fuse box are fine. 2. The bottom of the fuse box. I took a look out of curiosity -the thick brown/blue wire comes from the main switch. -the two blue/red wires are going to tail/break/aux. light etc. Exactly like drawn in the coloured wiring diagram at the end of the service manual. That's nice. 3. Now we put the signal fuse back in to reconnect brown/blue with blue/red. As expected, there's our battery voltage at the pin of the tail/brake light coupler. I touch the pin for tail light. Voltage is also switched to the brake light pin by pressing the brake. Remove the signal fuse: Voltage is gone Now we know the connection between the fuses lower terminal contact and the coupler is fine. There is not much more regarding the electric supply of tail/brake light.
  50. 1 point
    Interesting data. I can't help but to think of the lowsides I've had and how very few of them actually separated me from the bike. I still hit the ground, I just happened to slide along with the bike. Also, the video footage of the Honda airbag when the bike t-bones a car...tether wouldn't activate in that situation. Crashes are random, so that's not a knock against a tether as a trigger. It's impossible to foresee every eventuality. Perhaps a mix of analog triggering ( tether) and digital triggers combine will find the sweet spot.
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