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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/26/2021 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    If you're getting front end wobble over 90, you should correct that before trying to go fast on a track. I've had mine over 100 and it's steady as a rock.
  2. 3 points
    @Fz07Tyler yup went to Gimli Had a great first ever track day on my motorcycle and I hit all my goals. The bike and I made it home in perfect working order (about 375km including 125km each way to toget to/from the track), I think I learned a bit and I had fun. I was by far the slowest person on the track (novice group of course) and it upset some of the other riders as there was a rule that you only pass on the front straight so a number of them would have a lap ruined having to follow me. I always made sure to start at the back of the pack. I ended up having people passing my at other points on the track though. At one point one of the other riders came to have a chat with me because I would keep looking behind. He told me to stop doing that and just pay attention to the track ahead as it is the rider behind who has to pass when safe that the rider ahead has the line. Where that caught me out though was if I got off line a couple riders would take the opportunity to pass (again not on the front straight) so I became hesitant to get back on line without a shoulder check as I didn't want to collide with someone. It is tough to trust that the other rider will do the right thing but in my final session I really tried to put that advice to use. I did have a couple little offs into the grass. For those that do not know the track, it is built on an old runway in a field so all the run off areas are just grass fields. Both times I know I had under committed to the corner so I just straightened up the bike to exit the track as gracefully as I coule, got slowed enough to eventually rejoin the track safely. Sadly my GoPro mounting wasn't the best and of the 6 sessions it is only the last one where I got the camera locked in so that it didn't either flip forward or flip backward. I mounted to the front fender which was a neat perspective. I now understand the desire for a quicker ratio throttle. In particular on this track coming out of turn 9 (final turn heading to the front straight), I have to wait until on the front straight to adjust my grip so that I can properly go full throttle. So of that is my comfort level adjusting my hand position, and or poor technique. Here is the video of my final session. Please keep in mind that this is the first time I have ever been to a track and I have only had a motorcycle license for a year...I know my lines are terrible, that I am not getting on the throttle early enough and that I am on the brakes too early, but I rode just outside of my comfort level, trying to push myself in a controlled manner. But I am open to any suggestions on how to progress. Sorry I did not trim the video so you need to skip in a bit to get to the actual riding part...at about 2:30 is when I get out to start my lapping. You will also see that parts of the track are really bumpy.
  3. 1 point
    So I have been looking for a new LID, in doing so one of my three questions and what I look for is the OEM manufacture Stamp on the helmet, Crash Return Discount, Return Policy. I will start with the first as it is important OEM manufacture Stamp: This is critical and most important to me as most helmet OEMs have a 5 Year Warranty for manufacture defects or say the chin strap breaks, most OEMs will not sell those straps and request you send it to them for replacement (ARAI and Bell are one of those OEM's) Back to warranty, brick and mortars will send you back to the OEM or will have a fitment program like eSites aka Revzilla to wear it around the house and bring it back if not right. But the Key thing we are talking about is OEM manufacture Stamp this is the secret unkown most riders are unaware of. The 5 Year Warranty is based on the Date stamped on the Helmet, NOT WHEN YOU PURCHASE IT! Let me say that again "The 5 Year Warranty is based on the Date stamped on the Helmet, NOT WHEN YOU PURCHASE IT!" So you buy a lid at clearance for 50% off, chances are those stamps are a year maybe to or more old, you buy it say today May 2018 you get it and discover the OEM stamp is October 2016 Ya your screwed for full warranty. EVERY OEM will advise it does not matter one iota as far as they are concerned the warranty and life of that helmet is based on that time stamp, so buyer beware. The first thing I look for is that stamp, if it is within 6 months of my purchase date I am good with that. Crash Return Discount: Many OEMs offer a crash return discount, Bell helmets is noted for leading the industry on this one. What this means is hoping and by Gods grace you survive the OEM will indeed offer a fairly nice discount to purchase the same helmet and return to them the damaged. Bell, ARAI (Well last I checked they did) again are two that do offer this. I do believe AGV, Scorpian do as well I may be mistaken. You should be able to find this out by asking the OEM with a email to the Support Department or Race Department. Return Policy: This is huge, making sure if you are buying from a brick and mortar they have a return policy if the helmet does not fit. Lets define this, majority of shops will if you are just walking around the house all day (RECOMMENDED STANDARD) and never road it riding with in a day or two to replace it with a larger or different helmet. IF THEY DO NOT, WALK AWAY after trying it on and buy from someone who will. Most ALL web sellers, Bike bandit, revzilla STL, Dennis Kirk have this policy. The down side, you have to send the helmet in for inspection before they send the other out, again BE AWARE.
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Oh boy. Most, if not all, of us here who concern ourselves with ported heads and bored throttle bodies, do at least the disassembly and reassembly ourselves. If you're not able or inclined to do it yourself, I'd try to find an experienced bike mechanic who operates his own small shop. I don't know anyone in Vegas but I can suggest you ask motorcyclists you talk to, including local track day guys, and in Facebook groups. Somebody will know somebody who can do it competently and well below dealer rates. But before I go, I'll encourage you to at least have a plan for learning to do the assembly and disassembly yourself and obtaining the necessary tools and equipment. I can't imagine how I could have had nearly as much fun racing and modifying stuff if I didn't have some fairly basic mechanical skills and equipment. Besides, when there is a problem, you'll know who to blame.
  6. 1 point
    I doubt you would be slowing anyone down in the corners.... I rode the intermediate group @ RA. In that group, you're allowed to pass on the straights, as well as the outside of corners. I only got passed (outside) in a corner once @ RA by a V4 Ducati. Later that day I was able to pass a BMW S1000RR on the outside of a corner. I do not say that to "brag", I'm saying the 07 really levels the playing field in a corner. On the big tracks, I've learned I don't really like the 07 much. Put it on a smaller, more technical track like Blackhawks Farms Raceway, and I can't imagine riding any other bike . To the original poster: If you pick your tracks, you will love the 07 on track- as long you pick your tracks accordingly- or don't mind being passed on a straight with a 60 mph" closing speed" by someone that may/may not have the skills to be doing such a thing.... It made me uncomfortable. I'm not a racer, and never will be. I'm a 52 year-old guy that enjoys lighting fuel on fire, and destroying tires (because its's fun ). At the end of the day, I have to go back to work on Monday morning. I like to manage risk, and choose the smaller/midsize tracks for track days. Hope that helps you out-
  7. 1 point
    I've only ever done 2 tracks days – one on my 2005 ZX-10R in 2006 and the other on my 2017 FZ07 in 2020. Both in Novice Class at VIR (Virginia International Raceway). The ZX-10R was a brilliant bike. Perfect for the track. The FZ was fun, too, but overall I found riding it at the track to be a frustrating experience. I have no trouble getting my knee down on the FZ and can corner pretty quickly, meaning I can hold my own in the turns. However, the supersports and superbikes could outrun me anytime we hit a long straight section. They would routinely blast past and jump in front of me as we approached a turn but then hit their brakes and slow WAY down to go through the corner. And since Novice riders are not allowed to pass in the turns, I had to slow down with them. I don't mind getting passed but having to plod through turns was a drag and kind of defeated the point of going to the track. An Advanced group rider told me that riders "parking it in the turns" is a common occurrence in Novice group. He promised it's much less of an issue once you get to the Intermediate and Advanced groups, so I guess that's a great incentive to try and get bumped up. Of course then I'd probably be slowing THEM down in the turns! In regards to instability: I've never experienced any stability issues with my FZ at any speed and it's completely stock.
  8. 1 point
    I ride faster than 100 mph regularly and never had any kind of wobble, don't even know what to do in case this happens. I enter the freeway/Autobahn and braaaabraaabraaaaabraaa full flat out to 120 or something. But my neck is weak and windshield small, can't hold the head up for a long time, the only reason to slow down
  9. 1 point
    I track a 2016 FZ07 (still in naked-bike form). On the "big" tracks, it's a bit too small. I took mine to Road America this year. I was simply amazed at how much faster the big bikes were!!!! I could hang with everybody in the corners, but they blew me out of the water on the straights. I'm probably not going back to RA because of that. The difference in the closing speeds was really un-nerving (to me).... I stick to smaller, more technical tracks now. That being said, at a minimum: upgrade the suspension. I run a K-Tech Razor "R" shock, and a Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 fork kit, and lowered the front end by 10mm. The FZ/MT-07 is a blast on a track!!!! It's sooo much easier to ride than a 600/supersport. No need for high-reving power, the 07's rely on torque, making them REALLY easy to ride well... Good luck-
  10. 1 point
    Was there a diagnostic code that came on with the check engine light? Something on the dash that said "5D- xx" , the xx being another pair of numbers. Was the air filter stock or an aftermarket one? Many people don't properly maintain aftermarket gauze type air filters, and that makes them famous for ingesting dust which leads to low compression. Knowing what the spark plugs looked like when you had them out should give you clues if the rings were hurt or not. Also, do you 100% trust the reading of your compression tester gauge?
  11. 1 point
    No, I don't know, is this very complicated process? It's around "moderately complicated". I'm sure you can find a video about it, and it's in the shop manual. If the low pressures are due to valves, it's a coincidence that both cylinders are equally near the lower limit though. I'd probably not buy that one. I don't think it's a piece of junk or anything, but I wouldn't want to get involved with the lowish compression and the mystery "check engine" light when I could probably get one in better condition for a few more dollars.
  12. 1 point
    I touched my chain after riding one hour and it's barely warm. If you leave the bike in the sun on a hot day it will be a lot hotter to the touch than from riding.
  13. 1 point
    Well, it's within the max-min specification, so there is no big problem. Was the throttle held wide open for the test? The air filter shouldn't have any significant effect at cranking speed, but if the throttle wasn't open it'll read low. Also, if it has been sitting around for a long time, like months, it could read a little low until it's run a little while. It's getting close to the mileage of the first valve adjustment. Do you know if that has been done? Also, the manual specifies checking the compression with the engine warmed up. Was it warm?
  14. 1 point
    Update: Mileage passed 4,000 yesterday and it was time for a new rear tire. Since the front is still in good condition, I went with the same spec. rear tire: A Dunlop GPR-300 in size 140/70R17. After the initial easy ride on the new tire, I changed the engine oi and oil filter while the engine was warm, using an OEM oil filter (as I always do) and Yamalube AP 10/40 oil. The shifting and clutching feels as smooth as silk, As always, the MT-03 continues to thrill with a great handling feel and great power characteristics.
  15. 1 point
    thanks. Just ordered a new one for now until I can afford the stage 2.
  16. 1 point
    Wow, good for you! Bring water, snacks, some fruit and a smile. You're gonna have fun. Leave the brake fluid, oil, coolant home since you should have that done or do it the day before. Bleed your brakes today too if you think you need to. At your first track day that's too much to worry about. If your bike can safely carry you an hour to the track it should be good. A tire gauge is a must have. You're gonna get about 6 or 8 sessions and won't have time for that other stuff. Look up an instructor or control rider to bug with questions and advice. Stay hydrated, get rest between sessions and pay attention at the riders meeting, they'll cover most of your questions. Dave
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