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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/23/2021 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    What about the easy thing first, have you checked the regulator? The charging voltage is the measured output voltage of the rectifier/regulator which can also be out of specification because of a malfunction. The output voltage should be around 14V @ 5000 rpm. You can measure it directly at the battery terminals. Be careful, stop the engine if the voltage exceeds 14.8V...then theres a problem with the regulating part.
  2. 1 point
    Alright so I am going to try and give you the full build list, but I am sure I am forgetting some things, bike comes with title and bill of sale and is located in Herndon VA, outside of DC (20170). Asking $11,300 R6 front end w/ohlins 30mm kit mated to Robem adjustable triples with linear steering damper. Suspension is setup by thermosman 2016 r6 master (oem brembo) Ktech razor-r rear shock with the Robem rear link also setup by thermosman Full r6 wheel conversion front and rear with captive spacers all from Robem Underslung rear caliper bracket with modified brembo p34 rear caliper. With the roaring toyz captive chain adjuster/axle block kit GB Racing engine case covers Woodcraft sharkfin and spool bungs welded onto the swim arm Lightened everything. So trimmed wiring harness, frame, swing arm etc, I have a bunch of ti bolts I’ll also include APmoto ecu and rectifier relocaters Full sharkskinz bodywork, never crashed, with their mount kits. Aka easily replaceable and compatible with other sets out there. Paint done by some dude in Ashland, decals by DrippinWet SS front and rear brake lines Motion pro adjustable throttle kit Ftecu engine control with qs all tuned and setup Carbonsmith dual ram airbox, same one used by Jason Madama in MotoAmerica. Engine work done by RTR out of Jacksonville NC. He finished top 5 at road Atlanta on his fz that I sold him. Focus on engine build was reliability first, then performance. So we cutback the gears on the transmission, lightened a few parts in there and thinner head gasket for a little more compression. So we got a little more power and faster pickup. We did not do cams, pistons etc bc I was focusing on reliability. Great platform if you would want to do a sbk build Full akra carbon exhaust I have mounts for hardwire transponders and aim laptimers as well. With easy electrical quick disconnects that are waterproof. I am not including Westhold transponder or laptimers with the deal Ebc brakepads Woodcraft clip ons Woodcraft rearsets Mounts for laptimers/transponders. (Actual transponders/laptimers not included) I am sure I am missing some stuff but overall it’s a clean really well done bike
  3. 1 point
    Tomorrow I am going to my first ever track day on a motorcycle (novice group of course). The goals are pretty simple, first and foremost is return home with myself and bike in proper working condition and then I hope I learn something and have fun. As I have to ride my bike to the track (about an hour away) I do not have a support vehicle to carry extra stuff so I need to pack smart. Looking for some advice on what I should take with me. Current list is: brake fluid oil coolant small assortment of tools (hex bit, sockets, ratchet, open & box end wrenches) tubing and catchcan for bleeding brakes (I actually use catheter supplies for this tire pressure gauge rags For myself I will wear all my normal gear but have arranged to borrow a race suit while on track. Will take a pair of runners, some small snacks (granola bars) and my hydration backpack (I won't wear it while on track) and maybe some extra clothes if I can fit them. What am I missing? Any other suggestions?
  4. 1 point
    Regulators do not just reduce charging current and cause overvoltage when they fail. A regulator failure often results in no or very little charging current.
  5. 1 point
    Been a while since I posted...life events have got me busy, haha. I did fulfill a lifelong dream though... Here was the set up at MotoAmerica for Laguna Seca: - Paul
  6. 1 point
    Rotor, stator, rectifier/regulator, wiring and connectors. If there's a failure that's not wiring or connectors, the first thing to check is the regulator. Stators rarely just fail, and as @ElGonzalessaid, you can get a good idea about the stator's condition by measuring its winding resistances and comparing them to the values in the manual.
  7. 1 point
    Yeah, sooner or later a new battery is due anyway The rotor is a piece of metal with magnets in it. I see no reason to change it without any visible damages like a full crash with the stator. A beginning loss of magnetism happens at vintage bikes after maybe 50 (?) years. But hey, sometimes the crankshaft turns and the rotor is loose on it, then with bad luck you have to change the rotor AND the crankshaft The stator mostly fails because of a burned isolation between the wires of the coils -> internal short circuit. You can often measure this directly.
  8. 1 point
    Maybe your stator delivers the correct AC voltage, but the rectifier/regulator module fails the correct transformation to DC. 12.5 V with engine running in higher rpms is to low. The service manual gives the advice to check the stator by measuring the electrical resistance of it's 3 coils. This is done within 5 Minutes. If they are out of spec you can rule out everything else. It would be great to know what AC Output Voltage of the stator we can expect. I guess around 70-80V (minimum, hazardous to touch!) but I haven't found informations.
  9. 1 point
    Yeah, with the original relay there should be additional resistors to simulate the load of bulbs OR somebody replaced the relay by one which is able to work with low LED currents. But I am really curious to know what "everything else attached to the indicator circuit" is People sometimes like to search for errors in a completely wrong direction.
  10. 1 point
    If he has LED's there should be a load cell somewhere, I hate those things. People mess up a lot of wiring harnesses putting Chidunkjunk accessories on their bikes unless they know what they're doing, buy the right stuff and most importantly know what they're doing with a tool in their hand. That's why I always say check everything carefully, skip or assume nothing.
  11. 1 point
    These are my thoughts and practices, different riders have different practices and opinions. Having used a similar O-ring chain on my KLX650 never actually cleaning it and lubing it not quite as often as I should, I run around 15,000 miles probably around 1/4 on dirt/gravel when I notice some links starting to tighten and sprocket starting to hook. So I do a new chain and sprockets on my tire change, which averages around 4000 miles when the tread is shallow enough on the back to lack the traction I want on the dirt/gravel. I only have a few adjustments early on when the chain and sprockets are seating in. From there the wear is mostly negligible, meaning only about 4 adjustments over the 15,000 miles. I also run a shade loose so I'm not pulling the chain too tight as the suspension compresses. I figure that chain isn't all that bad. The O-ring has the main wear point, the pins, enclosed in with lube. Any cleaning must be careful enough not to penetrate the O-ring seal and thin the lube, so I don't get overly concerned with the stuff I get on paved roads. Also never pressure washed the chain - ever.
  12. 1 point
    Wow, good for you! Bring water, snacks, some fruit and a smile. You're gonna have fun. Leave the brake fluid, oil, coolant home since you should have that done or do it the day before. Bleed your brakes today too if you think you need to. At your first track day that's too much to worry about. If your bike can safely carry you an hour to the track it should be good. A tire gauge is a must have. You're gonna get about 6 or 8 sessions and won't have time for that other stuff. Look up an instructor or control rider to bug with questions and advice. Stay hydrated, get rest between sessions and pay attention at the riders meeting, they'll cover most of your questions. Dave
  13. 1 point
    When it comes to the chain, when in doubt do it. It'll last much longer and you'll be more familiar with the machine and notice things before they become mission critical. The easiest thing to do is get a can of chain cleaner, a can of chain wax and a grunge brush. (Maxima or whatever brand you like) Cleaner on, brush, blow or wipe clean/dry. Then a light coat of wax. Do it every 500 miles or so after your ride while the chain is warm. Takes 5 minutes, your stuff will last much longer, you'll be much safer and happier. Cheers, Dave
  14. 1 point
    An old trick is to put a 12v light bulb where the fuse goes, so it lights. Since it shouldn't light under normal circumstances, you then go about your troubleshooting until you make the light go out. This saves a lot of fuses, among other things. You said the turn signals and other things on that circuit don't work, but does the engine start and run?
  15. 1 point
    Cool zappy noises are for Saturday morning cartoons. I wish I had better news but egad your life sucks. Ordinarily I'd say you have a short somewhere. Be methodical and check every wire, connection, terminal and relay until found, no problem. In your case I'd line up an Uber or another ride for work just in case. Obviously the fix is the same but I'd be extra nosey around anything not stock or unmolested like the tail tidy and LED's. Take a deep breath, open a beer, and get to it. Skip nothing, assume nothing. A 12 volt test light and a multi meter will be your companions today. Have another beer. Good luck.
  16. 1 point
    Selling my 2015 fz07 so all the goodies are going too. All items are located in Minneapolis, Prices do not include shipping. More pictures on request if anyone needs something specific Woodcraft clip ons 1.5 drop- 150$ Sold Woodcraft rear sets+extra peg standard shift- 250$ Sold Spiegler brake lines- 50$ Power commander 5- 250$ Dobeck performance EJK 100$ Leo Vince exhaust, has an extra O2 sensor bung welded for autotune- 350$ Sold Mwr filter plus lid- 70$ Nitron R3 shock setup for 195lb rider last rebuilt in spring of 2020- 675$ Forks by Matt conversion with .95 springs 200$+trade for stock forks Sold
  17. 1 point
    I just pulled front springs and rear shock from my 2015 if you’re interested. Have about 1000 miles on them. Sold and upgraded to fz10 I weight 210 and it worked great for me. Race tech front springs .95kg and k-tech rear shock sprung for 200lb.
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