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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/29/2020 in Posts

  1. 15 points
    Health issues have prevented me from getting on the track thus far this year but it's looking like I'll be able to race this fall. With the down time I got a sweet paint job and cleaned up a few other details. She's ready to roll.
  2. 13 points
    I did a track day yesterday at my local track. A rider I know showed up with a New R7,which by the way is a very nice machine. We compared bikes in the pits, looking for differences and trying to determine what components could be interchanged. He was very interested in my Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akrapovic Ti exhaust. This guy is a talented rider and when I was following him, I noticed how much the R7 is a true sportbike. The R7 allows the rider get low on the bike, hang off and tuck in easier. The R7 seat and tail allow for a lot of front to back movement as well. Again they did a nice job. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be between my modified FZ and a stock engined FZ or in this case an R7. In the clip below, you can see me follow him onto the front straight, close in and pass. I knew my bike made more power and pulled longer than it did stock, however this shows a real world difference. Money well spent in my opinion. The R7 will have a Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akra Ti VERY soon. My GoPro Adventure - 10/1/21 Shared using GoPro Ed
  3. 13 points
    The dealer says October. I have 86 acres of farm land with 15 acres of woods so this is long overdue.
  4. 13 points
    8/15/2020 NYST photos....
  5. 12 points
    I finally made it to New York Safety Track. I was invited to a private track day. This track is amazing with elevation changes, off camber turns and as many left as right turns. Beautiful location at the top of a mountain in NY State. The people were great and super friendly. This was one of the best track days that I’ve ever had. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend it. also, I absolutely F%ckin’ Love My FZ07 Ed
  6. 12 points
    Went for a quick ride today and all is good so far. Bike tracked perfectly with hands off the bars at 70 mph. The bike feels just as nimble with 7 inches added to the swingarm. I deleted the rear ABS. It was just easier since I needed a longer line. The stock shock is on until the custom valved Penske comes in. Probably another week.
  7. 11 points
  8. 11 points
    Hi All, I am fairly new to the forum, been around on the T700 one and I thought I join this one as well as there is a lot of things to learn from people who have used the cp2 engine for years now. My bike is a 2019 tenere 700, which I've converted to a supermoto since 2k miles and have been riding and improving the bike since then... Most fun I've had on two wheels to be fair and I don't plant on selling but keep looking of ways to improve the bike.... Wheels : Excel Takasaga 5.0 and 3.0 inch with 160 60 and 120 70 tyres.... Front mt10 mudguard, front mt07 sprocket, I can't remember the size... Suspension : front and back upgraded springs. Brakes : stock for now... I am waiting for the Beringer calliper to arrive any day now, it has been 5 weeks... All the other parts to convert a single disc have been purchased. And I will do an abs pump bypass as well. Engine is stock apart from the end can and this is where I will be starting to look at once the brakes are fitted and I'm happy with them. Looking to do some intake mods thanks to @AP996 for his help into guiding me towards his solution for the intake. Once the engine breads better and the tuning has been done with software I will get some cams and headers. Plan for the engine is to have a healthy power band and around 80 85hp to the wheel. Things I have added that make the bike nicer to ride : 1 finger clutch from camel adv, healtech quickshifter which is addictive and makes so much sense coming out of turns... Different levers, rally seat for 910mm height.. Heated grips, shorter Sport screen... For me this bike is perfect as I am very tall 196cm and long legs so there isn't a lot of options out there that can be as comfortable and as nimble as the t7. Would like to reduce the weight of the bike to 180kg wet but that is a long term goal and it should be achievable with some nice titanium mods, battery and abs pump removal once a module comes a long like on the r6 or r1. I'll let the pictures do the talking. Aleks
  9. 11 points
    Thanks to our friend @klx678 for some great efforts during the research of this front brake mod, and some more wisdom from @mossrider along the way. This is a front brake only mod, nothing is changed about the rear brake. And best to our friend @D.A. who continues recovering from a nasty highside practicing knee dragging Stock bike OEM master cylinder is 15mm and caliper pistons are 27/30mm for a hydraulic area ratio of about 29:1 (an entry level brake). This Brembo 17RCS mod pushes that ratio to about 22:1. Before going there I want to say please do the background work for yourself and just know what you are about for this one. I cover the controls at all times, and use two finger clutch and one finger braking - everything I say in this mod is from that perspective. This mod has been tested with the ABS disabled and enabled by fuse pulling (without loss of speedo). I run without the ABS most of the time. Prerequisite EBC HH Brake Pads Front: EBC FA252HH Key parts as reviewed 110.C740.40 | Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta Standard (long lever) | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo 110.A263.85-1 | Brembo RCS reservoir kit in smoke | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo Spieglerusa.com Phase 1 - connect brembo to abs "IN" port with new line, use bike's existing rubber brake lines from abs "OUT" port down to calipers 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 560mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x 20-00001-11 (single banjo bolt M10x1.0 in silver anodized for Brembo connection) 6 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum Phase 2 - replace brake lines from abs "out" port to calipers with braided stainless steel 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 736mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 515mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on both ends. 10 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum 1 x 20-00102-15 , double banjo bolt M10x1.25 1 x 20-00002-15 , banjo bolt M10x1.25 Support parts/extra replacements 6219613 | copper crush washers | Qty 15 | kurveygirl.com 105.1502.10 | Brembo bleed screw rubber cap | Qty 3 | kurveygirl.com 110.A263.89 | Brembo replacement RCS cap and flag | Qty 2 | kurveygirl.com 90464-18002 | Qty 2 Genuine Yamaha Grommet Tab Locator | Yamaha Wire-M187-F110 | Male .187" to Female .110" Conversion wire (brake switch wire-up w/no cutting of bike harness | Qty 2 | T-Molding.com Spiegler created a kit S-YA0324 from my brake line parts list - thank you! After I finished this mod and was confident in the lengths and materials was good to go, Spiegler was great and asked if they could create a "kit" by part number called the "Yamaha XSR700 ABS Front Brake Line Kit" for Brembo RCS master cylinders, so anyone who wants to do this mod can have a single Spiegler part number that takes you to the Spiegler ordering page for this kit, where you choose the color of lines and fittings and Spiegler will make sure you get all the other brake line parts you need to do this mod using my line dimensions, including extras like new grommets on the lines (so you don't have to re-use the Yamaha grommets like I did). Go to the Spiegler home page and search for this part number "S-YA0324", you will find some pics of my bike there to reference for how to route lines and stuff. You choose the colors for the brake line & fittings, Spiegler sends you the right brake lines, fittings/angles, with grommets ready to go. Thank you Spiegler and Matthias Schaub http://mschaub@spieglerusa.com, he was a great help. Installation You can install the 17RCS with only one new brake line from Speigler, that's the "Phase 1" mod with only 1 new braided ss brake line connecting the Brembo 17RCS to the abs "IN" port (and leave the rest of the front brake lines the stock OEM rubber). I prototype tested the bike in this Phase 1 configuration, then pulled it down and did the Phase 2 where all OEM front brake lines are pulled and replaced by Spiegler braided stainless steel lines. You can install this brake in a conventional handlebar/control location, or if you are like me you may want to locate the 17RCS exactly in a certain position relative to the grip, and move the starter/harzard lights control housing up the handler bar to make room for what matters. Brake light switch included is good quality, and using the "Wire-M187-F110" spade flag connector wires you can attach it to the bikes harness without cutting the harness at all, the two "flag" type connectors for the existing brake can be plugged into these "Wire-M187-F110" wires and then that short piece of adapter wire can be "clamped" onto the Brembo brake light switch wires from the RCS17 switch. Brake light function is flawless, just do a good job of waterproofing, I used a "jacket" of heat shrink tubing shrunk "partially" to make a more snug & watertight .187 flag connections for these handlebar brake wires. Line Routing Let's stop dragging that abs sensor wire down the left fork leg to the left caliper, back up and over the fender, and down to the right caliper where the wheel sensor is located. In this mod, the Spiegler line from the abs "out" port travels down the right fork leg to the right caliper together with the abs sensor cable to the double banjo bolt connection, then the brake line jumps over the fender to connect to the left brake caliper via single banjo bolt. The brake line passes thru the bike's grommet locator (rigid metal bracket under the triple tree). It "skips" passing thru the 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator at the bottom of the triple tree, only the abs sensor wire is passed thru this locator. If you try to pass the braided stainless steel brake line thru both of these locators at the bottom of the triple tree like OEM did with the rubber brake lines, it would create a totally unnecessary and unwanted sharp bend in the Spiegler line. The brake line is secured in the bike's rigid metal bracket grommet locator under the triple tree by "reusing" the grommet from the OEM original rubber line (I removed it and reused it, but if you order from Spiegler they will slide this rubber grommet on the line for you, no need to reuse). I increased the "grip" that this grommet has on the Spiegler line, by cutting a small piece of rubber from an old inner tube (about 1/4" wide and long enough to go around the Spiegler brake line one time) and then wrapped the "reused" original grommet around that inner tube wrap. The important thing is that the Spiegler line is secured at this point so it can not slide up or down - that ensures the proper length down to the caliper that will flex with the suspension is always maintained. Also the "over the fender" brake line does not scuff or touch the plastic fender, and the brake line coming down the fork leg is nicely supported and "stout" enough so it does not flap around in the airstream at speed. The abs sensor wire is "zip tied" to the Spiegler brake line traveling down the right fork to the right caliper. The abs sensor wire has a grommet that was originally used to hold the sensor wire in place as it passed thru a metal locator bracket at the left caliper. This abs grommet on the sensor wire is in just the right place to now be moved up to the rigid metal locator bracket under the triple tree and clamped along with the brake line at this securing point. The abs wire then travels on up thru the Yamaha 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator and on up the triple tree to the abs. At the abs, this sensor wire now will have a surplus of length before it plugs into the wiring harness next to the abs unit under the right fuel tank panel. You can nicely protect this extra length by wrapping two loops around the wire retaining bracket at the frame yoke that is used to keep the bike's electrical harness from rubbing the frame when turning the bike. Also before I plugged this abs sensor wire back into the wiring harness, I took about 3" of large "shrink wrap" and placed it over this abs sensor wire connector end with a zip tie (but do not shrink it), to create a more waterproof "boot" around the connector. After plugging the connector into the harness, this extra boot makes a much better waterproof cover for that abs connection. Also, at this same location at the yoke of the triple tree/frame, I used a wrap of inner tube to add extra protection for the bike's wiring harness that passes thru this location (where the Speigler brake lines are moving and flexing when the bike is steered). One nice wrap around the wiring harness with the rubber inner tube piece, zip tie it in place, and the harness is protected from those flexing brake lines that might chaffe away at the harness without protection. Banjos at the ABS I think reusing the stock banjo bolts is best approach, the allen heads are easier to get a wrench on because close clearance with fuel tank above abs and they are steel so no worries reusing. I used (always new) copper crush washers (aluminum is fine too), and I picked some that were .5mm thick, because Spiegler banjo fittings are a little "taller" than the oem fittings, using a .5mm washer gives some length back to the banjo bolt threads screwing into the abs unit. Finger tighten both IN and OUT line banjos at abs and check all your routing (my pics will help) and clearance behind the air scoop (put scoop on and check the banjo positions) before you commit and tighten down on the crush washers. 17RCS Corsa Corta Review Quality, fit, and finish is of course the "cat's meow". It is in a way, like Brembo likes to suggest, a work of art - but I don't give squat for looks I want results. 17RCS delivers. You could order the 17RCS standard version, or the 17RCS Corsa Corta. I changed my mind at the last minute and ordered the Corsa Corta, you pick up an adjustable "free play" adjuster. Damn it turned out to be my favorite thing among everything that is a favorite on the Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta. You can go look at features of this front brake master cylinder all over the web, please do, I will not repeat any of it here except to say what I like about the 17RCS. Expect to have more time and effort involved in brake bleeding and testing for weeping banjos & tightening to seal those crush washers. I used a reverse brake bleeder "V5 DIY 2104-B Brake Bleeder" available from Pheonix Systems or from NAPA sold under "Carlyle Tools" banner, or on the web everywhere car parts are sold. Test your brakes every night for a week after bleeding by doing this (to remove additional air from system AND show any "weeping" from banjo crush washers). At night you can use a couple zip ties (cable ties) to hold the lever under moderate braking pressure all night like you were squeezing the lever firmly - firmly but no need for crushing force pulling the lever. In the morning, hold the lever at this squeezed location and cut the zip tie, then slowly release the lever. It can "suck" any accumulated air bubbles at the top of the system back into the master cylinder where they travel up into the brake reservoir. It helps get air out of the system AND you can go look closely at all the banjos, if they are leaking go slow but tighten them a very little amount until they stop leaking each time you check and find weeping. You know what to do. I also repeatedly bleed the 17RCS first every day after releasing the zip tie (yes, the 17RCS has it's own bleeder screw on the master cylinder body), and then bleed off the top of the right caliper where the new "double" banjo bolt is, and then the left caliper where the "single" banjo bolt is. Pump off the left caliper to force any air in the line that jumps over the fender (and is trapped in the line over the fender) out of the system. Enough about bleeding, you know. Initial Bite You control how much free play there is in the lever before hydraulic brake pressure begins (only on the Corsa Corta). I really like running it with very little free play, as soon as I begin to pull with my finger I'm into the initial bite, you may hate that but hey, that's why it's adjustable. Brake character It's linear. I mean completely linear, the initial bite all the way to howling tire (I run with the ABS disabled much of the time). The stock lever, you begin pulling, and pulling, and pulling and still not getting anywhere keep pulling then it starts to build but not enough, you keep pulling, pulling until you are really standing on it and finally you get the serious increasing brake pressure needed for serious stopping or emergency. Not that way at all with the 17RCS. From the initial first bite, there is much less additional lever movement. As the lever moves, the braking force builds rapidly but at the same increasing rate as a function of lever movement. And there is no softness, anywhere. It feels firm all the time, even when only applying a small braking force. Firm does not mean "hard" to pull. It means every increase in lever movement must be intentional by the rider and you feel the result, even though it gives the impression that you are not pulling any harder, you simply are intentionally braking. With the ABS disabled, one finger braking can make that wheel howl, but it is not in any way a "touchy" or "grabby" brake. I have to squeeze with conscious intention to stop, but I can achieve even emergency stops with my index finger. And the feel is superb - it's interesting how a firm purposeful master cylinder also provides so much more confidence and feedback while still being linear and firm when compared to the entry level OEM brake feel. I know what is going on at the tire, I feel it thru my finger as well as all my other riding senses. I can really feel what's happening, that's what it's like. This brake and you You could hate everything about this brake that I like. It's how I brake and what I have always preferred in brakes, I go to lengths to make front brakes on previous bikes work somewhat like this one. But this is the easy way to get everything I want, I don't have to keep trying out my options to see how close I am to what I like. This brake puts me there, and you may hate that place. There, that is my disclaimer, don't do this because it will kill you and like all my mods, they all cause athletes foot fungus. My hand strength is diminishing because reasons, this 17RCS with adjustable lever leverage will keep me riding for some time to come. @klx678 did me a great favor jumping into my design with both feet early on and taking it to Brembo to get them to "sign off" on this ABS bike application & fitment, thank you amigo. I'm expecting there will be things I remember need said to help explain, so I will edit post as needed to keep it straight
  10. 11 points
    R1m LED turnsignal mirrors Sharkskinz upper fairing (modified) Eagle lights daymaker LED headlight / housing Ermax rear cowling Ermax belly pan Yoshimura y-series full system Rear sets Woodcraft clip ons with 3" drop So far Hand painted by yours truly
  11. 11 points
    Pics from last weekends track day event hosted by TDW. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and learning things every lap. I'm getting close to the edge of the rear tire so I think I'll need to add a rear link to jack the back end up. Bike worked flawlessly except in one session I had fuel leaking out the Vortex gas cap. I think I just didn't click it down completely because it didn't leak at all the second day.
  12. 10 points
    A video of my first stoppie and it wasn't planned The practice I've done saved me from what could have been a very bad day. When I realized I needed to stop as quickly as possible, I didn't underbrake or panic and lock up the brakes. Instead I was able to rely purely on my muscle memory of emergency braking. When the car was in my path it wasn't scary and it felt like another braking exercise. I simply gradually but quickly applied more and more brake pressure until I felt the rear wheel lift up. Next time you go for a ride, find an empty road in good condition and practice fast progressive braking. You don't want the first time you have to use your maximum braking potential to be a trial by fire.
  13. 10 points
    Going to NJMP tomorrow for the first track day of the year. Any of you Hosers going? Can't wait to feel the new Hord Airbox and Tune. Ed
  14. 10 points
    Things went great yesterday. The weather held out, mid 70s and sunny. They over $300k in track repairs over the winter. Fixed cracks, patched bad sections and most importantly fixed drainage issues. They also paved the parking areas (used to be grass/dirt/mud) so parking and set up was good. It was a light day for the first event. Instead of 4 15-minute session, they gave us 3 20-minute sessions by combining the 2 fastest groups. So 8 run sessions for the day. The track improvements were noticeable. Completely dry and no rough sections. Grip on the new patches was good. I had set up my sag settings with my new Slacker Tool. I also played with compression settings, went a little softer front and rear. The bike felt good and rear tire pattern looked good and consistent across the rear tire. The Q4's felt great too. The new Hord Airbox and Tune were noticeable, especially on the long main straight, the engine just kept pulling. There is a noticeable intake growl above half throttle. That combined with the Akra Ti sounds great. I rode well and felt good for the first event after the winter layover. My son rode well on his SV 650. Making noticeable improvements with body position and the right line. He spent the afternoon working with a coach and had a really good day too. At lunch, a rider with a very well set up 3rd gen SV 650 came over to talk to me. He asked what was done to my FZ. I thought this seemed odd, because he had a well set up SV and all of the mods on my FZ are visible and obvious. Then he said no, what did you do internally to the engine, I said nothing and he looked more puzzled. He said that he could get right up to my rear wheel in the tight areas, but I would walk him on every straight. He said his SV was dynoed at 74 RWP. He asked what mine was. My bike has never been dynoed, so I said" I dunno, more than 74?" He just seemed puzzled that my bike appeared to be that much faster. It made me feel good about my set up and helped validate my butt dyno results. The rider was a cool guy, we made friends and talked quite a bit. Got to ride with my 75 year old track buddy and made a few new friends. All in all a good day. Ed
  15. 9 points
    Hi i take my bike to test again this past Sunday and we make new numbers and new Personal Record 10.70@119 in 93 oct. I want to make 10.5 in 93 oct then use Mr12 again. I use Mr12 before and make 10.86@119 now with use 93 oct https://instagram.com/arturomt07?igshid=aoi4qkef5cnm
  16. 9 points
    Well a bizarre 2020 is fast coming to a close but that just means next season is just around the corner. I piled up the last 5 seasons assemblage of toys for it's new owner, arriving in the great white north from Birmingham on Sunday. (We had snow today) I spent a day freshening it up a bit for it's journey. Farewell old friend. And drug this home for something to do over the winter. One of its owners 2 RC-51's. This one was raced years ago and has sat idle and neglected in the back corner of the garage for 10 years. It will be put back on the road in street legal trim so it's owner and his son can ride them together on weekends. Aside from this and a few other short term projects you just never know what will roll outta the shop come spring
  17. 9 points
    Well P1 was cut short by a red flag incident but we got a good idea of what's what in the 3 laps we got. Q1 was good, we put it on the outside of row 3 in 9th. We have another swing at the pinatas tomorrow so we'll see if we can improve. Greetings from Road America!
  18. 9 points
    I decided to use Tyga's silencers that are used on their VFR400 kit. The current plan is to mount one on each side just below the passenger pegs.
  19. 9 points
    So I started bothering the good people at 2 Wheel Dyno Works about a year ago with questions regarding exhaust and intake choices. I always received a quick response with the reasons they felt these were the best choices. There recommendations were; full Yoshimura exhaust with the Db killer installed, removing the snorkle on the stock airbox and using the stock air filter. I finally sent my ECU off last week with the request that they wouldn't disable the fuel cut; this is my first ECU flash and I thought it would eliminate engine braking. Some friends gave me guidence and told me I was wrong. I emailed them and asked that they change my order after I had shipped it, they did and I received my flashed ECU in less then a week. What a difference much smoother throttle response and little loss of engine braking. The real difference is in the power availability, pulls much stronger in the mid range and doesn't drop off at the top end. I had a chance to wring out 4th gear and it was still pulling strong when I hit the Rev Limiter at about 95 MPH. I have been riding for about 50 years and this was the best and least expensive (for the results) Mod I have ever done. To say I'm happy is an understatement. If I run into any problems I'll be sure to let you know, but I really don't expect any.
  20. 9 points
    95+% ready for the track. Just making final adjustments to the ProShift electronic gear shift system and waiting on my Hordpower airbox. Tentatively planning on doing the WERA event at Road Atlanta first weekend in October.
  21. 8 points
    After years of wondering if what they say about the Striple is true, I found one at a reasonable price: 2017 675R with 3200 miles on it and nearly new Michelin Road 5 2CT tires. My only complaint is the fork high speed compression damping is just as bad as the FZ's. And it spins about a thousand rpm higher than the FZ at 60. But that means it's pretty peppy boy! And Oh that exhaust note-a siren song if ever there was one. I can say it is a class above the FZ overall but then again the original price was about three grand more than the FZ. And it is chunkier than the FZ but...
  22. 8 points
    So now that my 07 is my dedicated track-only bike, I thought I should add an oil-containment belly pan for 2021. I found a manufacture called "Airtech" that builds generic body parts. I pulled some measurements, and ordered one. They make one called the "OCP1" that fit nearly perfect. They make an OCP1L (long), and a OCP1S (short) as well. I went with the standard length, and I only had to trim about 3/8" to make room for the exhaust. I made my own brackets out of aluminum flat stock from my local hardware store. It comes standard in white. As per Airtech, they suggested I use a spray-on bed liner for paint. Seems like a pretty good option so far? I never wanted a belly pan, and prefer the naked-bike look.... What do you guys think?
  23. 8 points
    Now I'm at BIR for a Zars track day Tuesday and Wednesday. Split time deal with Attack Yamaha and Westby Racing in the house. Attack has a new R7 in the truck with some of their parts on it. I'm trying my best to behave and maybe get a run on it after Jake Gagne and Josh Herrin are done hoonin around on it. Of course they have their respective race bikes here as well. Gonna be some fun. Oh and then we're here for a club race Fri thru Sunday. I should find a job. Nah.
  24. 8 points
    P11 in Q2 so we dropped to the 4th row for the race. When the start lights went out Brett went to work and got it done. Finished in 7th even after blowing Canada corner and dropping 4.5 seconds that he clawed back to make a beautiful last lap pass to rectify! My best finish to date, thank you team!
  25. 8 points
    Kudos to our friend @D.A. who continues recovery from nasty high side practicing knee dragging, he modified his existing vacuum lines on an MT-07 and I'm just repeating his success. This mod will build an entirely new vacuum setup for XSR700 / MT-07 instead of modifying the existing parts, so you can keep the OEM parts for a backup or a dog chew toy or whatever. Working this mod I was throwing "check engine" light, suspected vacuum leaks but unfortunately it simply is the Yamaha sensor begins to behave abnormally if the vacuum lines are modified too long. Air pressure sensor starts sending unexpected responses to ECU during engine braking/closed throttle decel, flashes the "check engine" light for a second or so around 3K rpms. If you're thinking to extend the lines all the way to under your seat, best give it up. So this mod is as all mods should be, simple, mildly invasive, and delivers a "plug and play" hookup to synchronize the throttle bodies with a manometer (like CarbTune). Nothing has to be perfect, but it does have to be correct. To see how @D.A. did it modifying the existing vacuum line, read this thread. Read what he did, check what I did, and then just do it your way, it will work out. Disclaimer - Like all my mods, this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus, and you don't want that Why this mod? - You would not ask, if you have tried to synch your throttle bodies (hookup CarbTune or other manometer). Stock vacuum lines are tough to get at. Best to just make easy access vacuum lines with rubber caps - so you can pull the caps off and slip on your manometer lines and get those throttle bodies in synch without removing the fuel tank or turning sideways, backwards, upside down, or whatever is in the book. Parts for this mod HPS vacuum hose 3.5mm here Vacuum hose clamps 8mm here Straight barbs 4mm here Tee barbs 4mm here Wire spring hose clamps here Bung caps 4mm here MotionPropilot screwdriver here small wire ties (cable ties) 3/8" (or similar) thin wall automotive rubber hose (to make a heat protective jacket around new vacuum line) 2' of 5/32" cheap Autozone vacuum hose, so you can make a "test loop" for your manometer accuracy check Get the bike ready for the mod (XSR700) Remove the side covers and the side cover "backing plates". Also to get some room to remove the old vacuum line and plug in the new vacuum line part we build, disconnect the acceleration throttle cable at the throttle body. It will give your fingers some room to get in there on Intake #1 (left side of the bike). Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #1 We will replace Yamaha's vacuum hose that runs from the air pressure sensor (above cylinder #1 valve cover) to the throttle body #1 manifold nipple (left side of bike). Here's the part we will build It's all made from the hps vacuum hose. Vacuum hose clamps are used to connect assembly to the air pressure sensor at the top of pic, and to the throttle body nipple at the bottom of pic. The "Tee" is our modification, that let's us add a new line for connecting throttle body synchronization tool to Intake #1. Note the "Tee" uses small wire ties (cable ties), because they tell the mechanic to "leave this connection alone!". We provide clamps where technicians can connect/disconnect, but we don't want anyone to disassemble our mod. That 70mm manometer hose That worked for me, on my XSR700. But you may want to be smart and make it twice as long (temporarily) and then cut the exact length you want after you locate both cylinder # 1 & 2 hoses you make on the bike (but remember, too long and you will toss an ECU "check engine light" on decel/engine braking). Do this for sure though - mark the outside of the hose (ball point ink pen works) at the base length I show. Hose marks become reference marks on your longer hoses until you are ready to make the final "cut", and use the rule if you extend one you extend both same length beyond reference marks. Keeps total vacuum draw equal on both pieces, to prevent "skewing" the manometer readings between throttle bodies. Add a heat jacket Take a piece of 3/8" thin walled rubber hose, cut it 90mm length, then slit it all the way so you can open it up like a jacket and wrap it around the hps vacuum setup That's enough to protect hps from cylinder heat, hps doesn't really need it but let's do this the correct way. If the jacket is loose, you can put a zip tie around the whole thing just under the "Tee", and don't make it tight - you don't want to restrict the hps vacuum line inside in any way. You are ready to install just as it appears in the pic, the top plugs into the air pressure sensor, the bottom into intake #1 manifold nipple, and once installed you will see the easy access tube is sitting nicely hidden behind your side cover so nobody will jerk with it, but you know it's there when you need it. To remove the OEM vacuum hose, and to install the new part, use some needle nose pliers, but be kind to your product, don't do any damage to your part or the bike nipple and sensor when you plug it all together. Here is what it looks like once installed, (the side cover (and backing plate) were removed to do the install of the vacuum hose). The hose is nicely waiting for you to remove the bung cap, and plug into your manometer. And once you put the side cover and backing plate on, nobody will know it's there and mess with your bike. Next step, build a new vacuum hose for Intake #2 (right side of bike), and it's just a simple line with a bung cap on the end. Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #2 Let's work cylinder #2 on the right side of bike, and build a line to give it the same kind of easy access. Just follow the pic below. Like the cylinder #1 hose, if you want leave the hose longer than needed for the moment but be sure to make a reference mark at the 160 mm, so you know where I cut (and you can make both hoses longer, but the same amount of length longer than my hoses). Ya, that was tough work, I know. This is all you need for #2 intake vacuum hose. On the #2 intake manifold there is a nipple just like the nipple on #1 intake, only it just has a simple blanking cap and wire clamp closing it off. Remove that stock OEM blanking cap from the #2 intake manifold and plug your new 160 mm hps hose (you built from the pic above) into the manifold nipple (it's tough, tight to get in there, but you only have to do this once, that's the whole point of this mod). Bring the other end of the new vacuum line with the bung for connecting synchronizing tools up and out where the right side cover will hide it from folks you don't want messing with it. Very easy to just tuck up under the side cover mounting bracket. This right side vacuum hose is 160mm for a reason - that's the length of the vacuum draw on the Intake #1 hose, we want the lengths to be essentially the same. That's it. Now let's test our manometer to see if it is accurate, and then hook it up to synchronize throttle bodies. Build a test loop for manometer Assemble the loop you see below We use this setup to connect the single line at top to the Intake #2 easy access bung, and then the "two" lines below can be connected to two of your manometer tubes. If the manometer is accurate, the two tubes will have the exact same reading when you start the bike for a test. Go ahead and plug it into the bike Intake #2 easy access and to your manometer (I have a CarbTune shown below). Start your bike and you can check the manometer, are the readings the same? They better be, because both the manometer tubes are connected to a single vacuum source, our Intake #2 easy access bung. If your manometer is good, you are ready to check if the throttle bodies are in synch. From here on in, just follow the instructions on your manometer for how to set it up. You have an easy access vacuum bung on each side of the bike for Intake #1 and Intake #2. Here is my CarbTune hooked up to both intakes and a synch test underway And that's why we do this stuff. To make it easy, to check and know that the bike is correct, not perfect, but correct. If you have to adjust, MotionPro has a 110 degree "air/pilot screw driver" that makes it real easy to adjust Intake #2 to match #1. No removing the gas tank, we made this too easy. Remember this, we always adjust Intake #2 to match Intake #1 (don't mess/change Intake #1 for synching). Changing the idle rpms on the bike is a different banana. All for now, I will update if anybody needs more details of what we are about on this mod.
  26. 8 points
    My son 796 on his SV And the rider with the blue and yellow 3rd gen SV behind me.
  27. 8 points
    I finished the bellcrank bracket. I have a Penske double adjustable on order. It will be valved for street/strip use. Penske and M2 shocks are the two big names in drag racing. M2 is mostly drag racing and while assembled in the U.S., uses Nitron parts. So they are "Nitron" drag shocks, pretty cool. I went with Penske simply because they are familiar with XSR700 packaging. M2 mostly does the popular drag bikes.
  28. 8 points
    Finally got the fairing stay 2.0 done! Eliminated contact with front fender, and made provision for a steering damper (required for many racing orgs).
  29. 8 points
    The main swingarm tubes are tacked and tested fitted well. I wanted to confirm I took measurements correctly and it looks like I did. I still can shim the swingarm left and right up to .08" if needed, but looks good. The bends look to clear the foot control components fine. There will be a 1" tube trestle structure that I need to add once it goes back into the jig. The mount for the shock bellcrank will be bolt-on. That is what the 3/8" hole in the cross member is for. This will allow changes to motion ratio and ride height by changing location of the bellcrank pivot. Swingarm is at 7.5 inches over as shown.
  30. 8 points
    The new swingarm slowly coming along in the jig.
  31. 8 points
    The rest of my results... Even though I didn't get to compete in all the events I had hoped to, I did manage to get some good finishes. Overall class championship finishes with Central Roadracing Association Formula 40 F1 1st Lightweight SuperBike 2nd Lightweight Grand Prix 2nd Super Twins 3rd Overall CRA points 20th. Great results considering I did not run the final event with the CRA. I also attended the CCS round at Blackhawk Farms which was our 'away' event for the CRA, was also a CCS event that payed CRA points. Considering it was my first time at Blackhawk Farms, I was very happy with these results. 3rd in Formula 40 Lightweight 1st in Thunderbike 5th in Lightweight SuperBike 7th in Lightweight GrandPrix.
  32. 8 points
    My 5th trackday this season.
  33. 7 points
    The Tarmac Faction Yamaha FZ-07 Racing Prototype is for sale! . A unique opportunity to race another class awaits, and there isn’t room in the workshop (or our budget) to do both concurrently at the level we want. With our third streetbike project kicking off this winter and keeping us busy until the next road racing season starts, now is a good time to say goodbye to the FZ-07 RP. . The bike is in MINT condition, clean title, with only a half dozen race weekends on it, never finishing off the podium in a Twins race except once - on its first outing during its shakedown on a track I’ve never been to, with a 5th place finish at Fontana. . . Cliff’s Notes on the bike itself: . - Fully Legal, Certified and Tech’d for MotoAmerica w/ Frame sticker (safety wired, etc) - Motor Build by Gary Dean of Speed Demon Motorcycles (average 92hp on 4 different dynos) - Bored Throttle Bodies by TWF Racing - Web Cams - Liqui Moly 5W-40 Street/Race motor oil (same as used in Moto2 and Moto2) - Samco Custom Radiator Hose set w/clamps - Carbonsmith Custom Velocity Stacks (Short Version) w/ custom MWR race filters - Tarmac Faction Custom MotoAmerica legal Ram Airbox - Tarmac Faction Full Custom Titanium Exhaust by Competition Werkes - Suter Slipper Clutch - Factory Pro Shift Arm w/ceramic bearing - Full electronics suite by Rapid Bike (RapidBike Racing, My Tuning Bike, Shift Assist, and You Tune with Traction control, Launch control, Adjustable Engine Braking and real-time AFR adjustment and monitoring via onboard display/control unit) - Current tune by Eric Dorn of EDR Performance - K-Tech Fully Adjustable Fork Cartridges and Razor RR Rear Shock set up by Lenny Albin - Robem Engineering Adjustable Offset Triples, Rear Suspension Link, Rearset Risers, Chain Guide, Shark Fin with misc. Titanium hardware throughout. - Ohlins Steering Damper on custom mount - Gilles Tooling Rearsets w/ Carbon Heal Guards, GP-LIGHT clip-ons, Chain adjusters w/built in spools, Sprocket Cover, Titanium Axle Nut - EBC VEE Rotors all around, EPFA brake pads up front, HH out back, BF307+ brake fluid - Proti Forged Titanium Rotor Bolts, Sprocket nuts, and misc hardware throughout. - Spiegler custom Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines - Galespeed 17-17 VRC adjustable Master Cylinder and Clutch Perch with Reservoirs - Dymag UP7X Forged Aluminum wheels with Ceramic Bearings - R&G Racing Case covers, Radiator guard, Frame Sliders - Carbonsmith Lever guards - Domino XM2 quick throttle, A450 Road Race Grips - Apex Racing Development Custom Switchgear - Woodcraft keyswitch elimination harness - AIM Sports Solo 2 Lap timer - Custom bodywork: Altus Motorsports Tail and Tank Cover, and Tarmac Faction Upper w/ windscreen and Lower with side panels and custom fairing stay - TechSpec Xline Tank Grips, road race seat - Yamaha UK Radiator side guards . . I may have forgot some items, but that’s the majority of it. . . Bike will come with the following EXTRA items: . - Pit Bull Front and Rear Stands - Spare set of Bodywork – Upper w/Windscreen, Lower, Tail, and Tank Cover - Spare upper with short windscreen - Spare Tarmac Faction Full Custom Titanium Exhaust by Competition Werkes – Black Ceramic Coated - Second set of Dymag wheels ready to bolt on w/Ceramic Bearings, EBC Rotors and Proti Forged Titanium Rotor bolts/sprocket nuts, NEW - Two (2) sets of Capit MAXIMA VISION PRO (Variable temp) Tire Warmers - Capit Wind Stop Covers - Capit Bike Cover - Three (3) sets of Dunlop MotoAmerica Slick Tires with one session each on them - A number of Talon aluminum rear sprockets, 44T, 45T, and 46T, NEW - Second set of Gilles Rearsets , NEW - Spare MWR Race Filters - Carbonsmith custom Velocity stacks, Long Version, NEW - Spare Tarmac Faction Tarmac Faction Custom MotoAmerica legal Ram Airbox, NEW - Spare Gilles footpegs, NEW - Spare Gilles clip-on bars x 4, NEW - Spare Domino XM2 Quick Turn Throttle, NEW - Spare Domino XM2 Grips, NEW - Robem Engineering Underslung rear brake caliper mount w/ Brembo rear caliper, NEW (didn't have time to install it before my first Pro race at Laguna) . . $16,750 or best offer.
  34. 7 points
    When I purchased the XSR 700 this past spring, I said it would remain mostly stock. Well, 3500 mile later and three trips to the local drag strip, I have plans for a street/strip XSR700 build. On the list so far is a custom extended swingarm, custom 2 into 2 exhaust, Power Commander V with Auto Tune, shift light, and Hord Power intake. I'm running low 13's and high 12's in the 1/4 mile. I still need to launch better and I can not see the tach to know when to shift. I'm learning to clutchless upshift. I was surprised to find the front will lift in 2nd gear in stock trim. While I bracket raced cars when I was younger, bracket racing bikes is new to me.
  35. 7 points
    Use one of these cheap Chinese super turbo sport power air pump wedge things and you can comfortably move the wheel up/down until you see all things are in perfect alignment, without the need to hold the wheel up with tiny arms, shoes or other inappropriate things
  36. 7 points
    Been a while since I posted...life events have got me busy, haha. I did fulfill a lifelong dream though... Here was the set up at MotoAmerica for Laguna Seca: - Paul
  37. 7 points
    I got to test ride a R7 on track at R/world trackday at njmp so I figured I give those who are interested a brief review of the bike. first thing I noticed when sitting on the bike was the forks are just as bouncy as the FZ. It’s fully adjustable but I didn’t get to mess around with that so perhaps it could be made better. The riding position isn’t very aggressive for a sport bike at all but a lot more aggressive then an fz07. I would say it’s a relaxed sport bike position. Like an old gsxr 600. Pulling onto pit lane the bike power seems muted. Not as twitchy or punchy as a stock mt07. Blipping the throttle in first gear didn’t bring the front wheel off the ground as easy. Once the control rider waved me pass and I got to ride at my pace I noticed a few things. Firstly the throttle is much smoother. Secondly The bike seems a lot slower coming out of corners and that was true in all corners in any gear comparatively. One major improvement was the brakes. The stock brakes on this bike is much better then my fz07 with the same master cylinder and braided brake lines. Overall it was a lot of fun. The bike is very nimble like an fz07. Euro 5 made the bike slower I guess. Suspension still feels terrible. Much stronger brakes
  38. 7 points
    Command central, Forgot to mention my crew this weekend is Andy Palmer. Dude seems to know a thing or two about racing. And running the show is Brett's lovely wife Patty. If we come up short now I suck.
  39. 7 points
    Below is a tutorial for my high-beam flasher button garage opener mod (anyone have a better name for this thing?). Basically, this mod turns your high-beam flasher into a button that will open/close your garage. Sorry for missing a few photos, I did not take any while first putting this together and went back afterwards to take some. I hope everything is clear enough! First off, here are the parts that you'll need: - Garage door remote opener - This universal remote is the one I used, but really any opener that will work with your garage will do - Approx. 8 ft. of 24 AWG stranded wire - This length may be overestimated, but it is far easier to trim off excess wire than it is to add it when you need it - Electrical tape / Heat shrink - Soldering iron / solder - Connectors - I used this connector and its mating part because I had some laying around. Any connector will do, and you can get by with no connector if you'd rather do that, it will just make servicing the remote later more difficult. Step 1: Remove left-hand controls assembly (I am not 100% sure what this is called, but the thing that houses the button itself) by removing 2x Phillips head screws. Step 2: Un-solder the two wires that connect to the button, they are yellow and red. To do this, lightly pull on the wire and touch the tip with the soldering iron. It should come up after a second or two. Wrap each exposed tip in electrical tape, then wrap them together. Doing it this way will also allow you to return the bike to stock later if you want to. Step 3: Solder new wires to each pad. I started with approx. 2x pieces of 4ft 24 AWG wire and ended up cutting off maybe a foot or so at the end. You might be able to get away with a shorter length to start, just approximate it by running the wire along however you plan to route it. Again, it is better to have the wires be too long than too short. Edit: I want to add that it does not matter which wire goes on which pad as this is a simple open/closed circuit. There is no need to worry about the pin-out for the button here! Step 4: Run the wire out of the controls assembly following the existing wiring harness. I wrapped the lines together in electrical tape, then taped them to the existing harness. Step 5: Remove the left fairing and the plastic cover that surrounds that gas cap. Note, it would probably be possible to get by without taking the fairing off, but I think it'll make it a lot easier to route the wiring. Step 6: Run the wires to under the seat. I followed the existing harness and basically went from the controls assembly into the headlight to under the tank to under the seat. I wrapped the entire length of the new wires in electrical tape, and anywhere they could be visible from the outside I taped them to the existing harness. In places where you couldn't see them (like under the tank), I just zip-tied them to the existing harness every so often. Step 7: Terminate the wires into a connector somewhere under the seat, at whatever length it makes sense to do so. The connector I used is not waterproof or anything, so after it was connected I placed a large piece of heat shrink over the connectors and then wrapped it in electrical tape for good measure. Step 8: Program your garage door opener remote to your garage. Step 9: Open up the remote and find the button that controls the garage. Solder 6" or so of wire to each end of the button. To test that it is working, strip the ends of each of the new wires and touch them together. The garage door should open/close. Step 10: Drill a hole/remove the plastic button/allow the wires to leave the enclosure of the remote in some way. I ended up removing the plastic buttons and running the wire out of the hole where the buttons would sit. Wrap the remote in electrical tape to help waterproof it. Attach the mating connector to the ends of the remote wires. Note, if you choose to not use connectors, you will just need to connect the wires to the ones from the flasher button in another way, or just use one set of wires and run them all the way from the button to the remote. Step 11: Connect the two connectors together and hide the remote somewhere. I found the remote fit perfectly on top of the battery under the strap that holds the battery down. After the remote is installed, just tidy everything up and put the fairings and controls assembly back together and you should be good to go!
  40. 7 points
    Bought this last weekend and putt about 200 miles on it so far. Looking to get off road next week with an experienced friend and hopefully learn a thing or two. So far it's everything thing I thought it would be. Nothing more, nothing less. It's not fast but it has nice flat torque curve and handles surprisingly good. I'm a pretty happy camper so far! Let me know if any of y'all are interested in one of these. I'm happy to answer any questions I can!
  41. 7 points
    I finally got my front suspension set-up perfectly, and it feels great! I definitely didn't get things right the first time, so I wanted to take you all through my journey. Hopefully this helps others set-up their bike with Emulators. My goal is to have a sporty commuter: something I can both bomb twisty roads with and comfortably ride to work. Important Info: Rider weight: 192 lbs w/ gear Rear shock: K-tech Razor R-Lite, stock spring Front Internals: Stock Springs Maxima 15 wt oil Preload Spacer cut to 100 mm length (w/ pipe cutter) Preload adjustable Fork caps (Ebay, see pic) Race Tech FEGV S4101 Gold Valve Cartridge Fork Emulator Race Tech FPEV AD4103 P Emulator Adaptor 41 mm Set-up: First Try: I Followed Race Tech's DVS for "B Class, standard stiffness" set-up Valve Spring: 40 lbs/in (Blue), 3 turns preload Valve Plate: 2 hole Oil Level (from top): 120 mm (empty), 65 mm (w/ internals) Well "standard stiffness" is definitely a relative term because this thing was STIFF. The bike felt amazing on a smooth road and definitely was super confidence inspiring on very smooth twisties; on rough roads the bike was hard work to ride-I'd get thrown around so much by even minor bumps, and big bumps were like body slams. I felt like a sadist riding that thing. There was very little dive with braking, so you could really hammer on the brakes. The low speed compression damping was so high you could feel even the texture of coarse pavement through the bars. Overall would be excellent for a smooth track, but not for the road. Second Try: Valve Spring: 40 lbs/in (Blue), 1 turn preload Valve Plate: 4 hole Oil Level (from top): 125 mm (empty), 70 mm (w/ internals) So differences here: 4 hole valve plate, reduced valve spring preload, and dropped oil level a little (not on purpose, ran out). Low speed damping felt great now. With the 4 hole valve plate I no longer felt every tiny crack or micro-imperfection in the road. It actually felt plush. The high speed damping was still way too high. The decrease in preload (and probably reduction of oil level) helped make the ride a little less harsh, but it was still rough for me. It felt like the shock could only travel a little bit and then quickly stiffened up preventing further travel. This was livable for short the term, but I wanted to smooth it out more. Final Set-up: Valve Spring: 40 lbs/in (Blue), 1 turns preload Valve Plate: 4 hole Oil Level (from top): 160 mm (empty), 105 mm (w/ internals) Before pulling out my Emulators and changing to a softer valve spring, I decided to play with my fork oil level. I noticed in my second try, when I went to adjust my sag, the ride height was too high even with just my <5 mm static preload. I didn't have a handle of how oil level affects forks, but it was an easy thing to try. Well this simple change was the missing piece! The bike feels AMAZING now. Low speed compression is still great, but high speed damping is way less, and is pretty comfortable to ride. There's now a little bit more dive on braking than past set-ups, but far less than with stock. I've gone for a few spirited rides now, and the bike honestly feels like a weapon. With the right suspensions set-up your bike can handle better than stock AND be more comfortable to ride. It's truly an amazing feeling.
  42. 7 points
    I bought a 1978 XS1100 brand new back in November of '77 that I still have. Probably 10 or 15 years ago I did frame up restoration. Powdercoated the frame, wheels, forks, etc. Repainted, stainless steel button-head bolts everywhere. Replaced the big old tail light with tail light from a 250 Virago. Anyhow,. I was going through a box of pictures and found a few. I still have the bike. It's covered up in the garage now, resting peacefully. Just thought I would share some pics from days gone by.
  43. 7 points
    So, it seems like it's been forever since I've posted an update... Finally finished the mock up of the revised fairing, to get the height and angle where I wanted. We've made it to where it'll accept any windscreen for the 2015-2018 Yamaha R3. I've been using the Double Bubble version from Zero Gravity it's the tallest race fairing they make, and I can always use the Corsa or other variants if I wanted a slightly different angle or height. This was Ver.2 mocked up on the bike: Since then, I'm now on Ver. 2.623897645 haha. I've changed the angle to make it slightly more swept back, and brought out the nose more on the leading edge for better aero. This is the final version: I had my guys at Underground Graphics in Houston, Texas overnight me my livery and new numbers (changed from 138 to 158), so I can get this thing finished up to race next weekend. I have a new appreciation for the guys who do wrap jobs. My friend and I tackled it last night since overnighting the fairing to Houston was going to cost over $700. Took us over 6 hours, and I still have to put the final touches on it. Pics soon - Paul
  44. 7 points
    SO I have not been on the forum in quite a while, working full time, doing track side support, running another business yada yada yada. thought i'd pop on for a bit and update a couple posts. The Silver Bullet did me good this year, didn't get the motor built but I did manage a fairly good season. AND I partnered with Dave at BlueLine Racing for the INDY round of Moto America. We used his bike with my body work, and put together an awesome weekend, for the most part, Practice friday morning was cool and wet and I fell down... dammit. Friday afternoon I managed P14 in Q1, Saturday morning another damp cool session in Q2 and did not better my time, ended up P17 on the grid. got a good start and battled around top 15 the entire race, ending up P14. Not bad for a 52 yo that hasn't raced at the national level in over 15 years. Now I just need to get my budget together for 21, wife and I want to go race more Moto America events!
  45. 7 points
    A video clip from my phone.
  46. 7 points
    They obviously do not work on vehicles. My Haynes manuals are all greasy from using them with dirty hands. It gives them character. I do not want to give my iPad character.
  47. 7 points
    So this land yacht comes in for a full service and to fix a couple niggling issues. WARNING: The next one of you that whines about taking the airbox off an MT07 is getting punched in the throat. "Can you change the air filters too?" he asks? "Sure" I says, no problem... OMG, it'd been easier to stack bb's with chop stix in zero grav riding a camel! On to more exciting projects. I got the RC51 onto the lift to assess her condition. Does anyone out there clean their toys? I musta got 2lbs of chain muck & planetary debris off the rear wheel, swinger and chain. I bet it makes 10 more hp, lol. I have the brand new (in 2005) battery on the charger desulfating/reconditioning too. I don't have much hope for that. I also started peeking thru the mystery boxes that accompanied this project. The fact that there are 3 sets of throttle bodies in various stages of disassembly troubles me somewhat, altho I'm not sure why. A qwik check reveals there is a bad throttle position sensor on the set that came off the bike. Today's revelation; My father giving me his old tool set in 1968, the one with the 10.4mm & 12.7mm wrenches, the complete set of bent flat & phillips awl drivers and the stripped crescent wrench was no accident. He was trying to warn me. Unfortunately, I wasn't bright enough to get it. Till next time. Oh, and guitar strings are excellent conductors of electricity.
  48. 7 points
    Nah-nah nana nah, standing on hallowed ground. Setting up in gasoline alley, Well I was busy, Brett was doing, well ok he wasn't doing sh*t. The view out my front door, It all gets real later today...
  49. 7 points
    Race day last Saturday was about as perfect as it could have been. Bike ran perfect. My adaptions worked perfect. I started from pit lane so I would be at the very back and run my own pace to feel out the bike and learn new techniques riding as a paraplegic. More to come in the future.
  50. 7 points
    When did the term trail braking come in to vogue? Why is everyone so crazy about talking about it. You're jerky as a new rider, but as you get comfortable you become smooth and you feel what the bike likes. Extremely few bikes extend the rear shock under throttle. I don't agree with feeding throttle while trying to drag the front brake. All you're doing is crowding the bike and bunching the suspension up. The very basic theories of putting weight on the front tire by using the front brake, and putting weight in to the rear tire by applying throttle can be observed in a straight line easily. It's intuitive simply due to weight transfer. You cannot transfer the weight of the motorcycle both forward and rearward at the same time. You just can't. Instead of trying to (magically?) transfer weight on to both ends of the bike simultaneously through front brake +throttle, you're far better off using the gyroscopic forces at your disposal. If you apply enough front brake to load the front suspension your rear end will be light. Don't force feed power to the rear wheel in this scenario. You're asking to lose the rear. Everyone knows this that has ever accidentally taken a corner too hot or yanked the throttle too hard mid turn ( especially mid turn under braking)...yet he's teaching to load the rear tire with throttle while loading the forks through braking? I can't agree with that. Throttle is for acceleration. Brakes are for deceleration. The bike as a whole can't do both at the same time. Never pull the clutch in during a corner. Keep the engine rpms at a constant speed and the gyroscopic forces will not change. This will make a bike feel stable while cornering. If you're coming in to a corner hard you can kick down a gear for extra revs/ gyroscopic forces to change how lean in feels. Gyroscopic forces want to keep the bike upright. More forces makes you have to tip in harder ( more bar pressure while counter steering) which gives the tire a very planted feel. You're leveraging the weight of the bike against the gyroscopic forces, and this creates a hinge effect. The gyroscopic forces from the engine are central to the bike, the bars are on the top, the tires are on the bottom. The harder you can push on the bars the harder that leverage can work through that hinge to plant the tires. This is why engine braking is useful to a point, but can be overwhelming in some chassis's. This is why slipper clutches were invented, but also why they kinda suck. Weight and gyroscopic forces are WAY more stable, reliable forces than your right hand solely attempting to brake and throttle at the same time. Braking wants to pull your hand forward while you need to roll your hand backwards to apply more throttle. Add countersteering pressure, moving body position ( wrist angle) and the fact that your body may be moving up and down from hitting bumps while this is happening....that's an enormous amount of dexterity to ask of a heavily gloved hand wrapped around a floating, squishy grip. No, "trail braking" while adding throttle is not how you safely corner a bike. Go find a long corner. At least 180°. Ride that corner over and over and over at a very relaxed, effortless pace. Do it until you can robotically glide through that corner with your brain completely not having to concentrate on anything. Now, pull the clutch in mid corner and see how gross it feels and watch how the bike reacts. Now, do that same corner again and lightly apply rear brake. Feel how the bike will turn tighter and the chassis won't upset. Now, do that same corner and apply only front brake. Feel how the front was to dip and the bike suddenly feels wallowy, due to the steering engine changing mid turn. The fact that he quipped at the beginning of the video " who here has used the rear brake in a corner and has lived to tell about it".....ugh.... internet, stop making stuff up! The rear brake is a very effective tool for tightening your line! It's much safer than using the front brake and upsetting the balance of the chassis! But the key is none of these inputs can be done abruptly. The key to smooth cornering is smoothness. The key to smoothness is doing nothing. You can't add several inputs to a bike at once, especially opposing inputs, and expect smoothness. Smoothly roll off power when approaching a turn, smoothly apply front brake if needed to settle the chassis ( not always needed!), smoothly apply rear brake if needing to tighten your line, smoothly release the brakes while smoothly rolling back on the power. You do this while smoothly adding and releasing steering pressure. Start slow, feels the bike react through your bars, listen to the engine, do it again - but smoother. Then do it again and again and again. Next thing you know you will be absolutely flying through that corner with complete control and total faith. But if your try to force feed several inputs at once - forget it. Braking inputs mid corner are slight corrections made necessary by road imperfections or rider error. It's not how you should be intentionally planning to attack every turn. Sorry for the rant. The YouTube Professors with no accountability annoy me to no end. Ride safe, y'all! I'm going back under my rock
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