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On Christmas day, the forum went down. Soladrive, the company who hosts our website and manages our server, had some serious issues with the Raid that was obviously built incorrectly. This caused our Website to go down for over a week and a half. Crazy and unacceptable. Im currently switching us over to a different server host and doing this in the background. We are back, sorry for the long delay it was totally out of my hands.

I completed this build a couple of months back now, but thought it was time to share it with the group. I'm not one to document my builds as I'm usually busy with work/life/kids etc. so this is the first time it's made an appearance anywhere other than my local Facebook groups. Background: I've always had an interest in both road and dirt riding and so have been building "Scramblers" for about 10 years now. Started with a CB250RS, then CB400N, GS500, MT03 (660cc), Duke 390, and now finally the MT07. As much as I knew the MT07 would always be the perfect base for an adventure/dirt build, I was always a bit apprehensive about using my MT07 as it's been my faithful and all time favourite bike for the last three years now and also isn't a cheap bike to go awol on and turn into a dirt bike. Though I finally got sick of building Scramblers which just weren't quite good enough and so I bit the bullet and sacrificed my MT07 to the dirt gods. After spending countless hours on research prior and sourcing the necessary parts, the build itself was rather quick taking about a month from start to finish. The "kit", named so because everything is fully reversible and transferable to another MT07, is the following: - Gen 2 KLR 650 forks in the standard MT07 triples with Cogent DDC emulators, 200mm standard travel. - YSS SV650 shock, 175mm travel, revalved for adventure riding conditions. - KLR650 wheels, 21" / 17", running Motoz Rallz, and oversize 320mm front disc. - Fully functioning ABS retained with a toggle switch up on the handle bars. - Few accessories, screen, taller+wider bars, hand guards, skid plate, crash bars, ventura rack. - Plus a bunch of other bits and pieces, machined spacers, longer front brake line etc. to pull it all together. The end result is an absolute weapon off road and more fun than my stock MT07 was on road. It weighs in at 190kg wet, so about 10kg (22 pound) more than stock although that includes all the bolt on protection and the rack, so works out about the same. The bike sits about 75mm taller than stock at the sump with a bit more than that from the front end and a bit less from the rear so is canted back slightly giving it a more upright riding position. At 173cm (5'9) it's probably sitting at the limit of height that I can still manage off road although I have been riding dirt bikes for many years so am somewhat used to it. The suspension is dialed perfectly for myself at 73kg with the stock KLR fork springs and standard YSS SV650 spring and hits just the right balance of on/off road mix. Smooth enough when it gets rough, but firm enough for spirited road riding and preventing it from bottoming out. And with the altered ergos it wheelies like there's no tomorrow. I couldn't be happier with how this bike turned out. It's hands down the most fun bike I've owned over the years. My days of seeking out the perfect Scrambler are done as this is exactly the bike I was after. There's only one change potentially in the works. It might be about to become an XSR700!

I had some emergency surgeries this spring and summer so I was not able to get on the bike all year until a track day weekend Oct 30 & 31 at NCM Motorsports Park. I'm definitely getting more comfortable riding as a paraplegic and the bike is working great. Here's a few pics.

I can finally say I am done with mods until something breaks. Been a long process but I am content leaving well enough alone. Not even going to do the math on this build... Now it’s time to ride! Graves Full Exhaust Ohlins NIX22 Fork Cartridges Ohlins STX46 Rear Shock Robem Engineering Linear Linkage Suter Slipper Clutch Superlite RSX 520 42T Rear Sprocket W/ Titanium Nuts Renthal Superlite 16T Front Sprocket EK 520ZVX3 NX Ring Chrome Chain Hordpower Air Box 2WDW Custom Map Woodcraft Clip Ons 1” Riser Rhinomoto Mirror Bar Ends CRG Levers CRG Arrow Mirrors R6 Throttle Tube and Grips FTECU Active Tune FTECU Quick Shifter Cyclops Headlight Evotech Radiator Guard Puig Sport Windscreen Shogun Frame Sliders OES Front and Rear Axel Slider Spools MNNTHBX Rear Fender Eliminator Passenger Foot Peg Delete Brackets Gilles Chain Adjuster Rear Spools Gilles Titanium Rear Axle Nut Ebay Rear Seat Cowl RAM Mount Driven Halo Gas Cap Bagster Seat Sato Rearsets Woodcraft Engine Covers Proton 500 Flush Mounts Titanium Magnetic Oil Drain Plug Kryptek Vinyl Wrap Yamaha OEM Sub Cowl Ermax Radiator Side Covers Spiegler Braided Brake Lines Front & Rear EBC Vee Front & Rear Rotors W/ Titanium Fasteners EBC HH Front & Rear Brake Pads Q3+ Tires **Sorry for the crappy old phone pics**

I did a track day yesterday at my local track. A rider I know showed up with a New R7,which by the way is a very nice machine. We compared bikes in the pits, looking for differences and trying to determine what components could be interchanged. He was very interested in my Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akrapovic Ti exhaust. This guy is a talented rider and when I was following him, I noticed how much the R7 is a true sportbike. The R7 allows the rider get low on the bike, hang off and tuck in easier. The R7 seat and tail allow for a lot of front to back movement as well. Again they did a nice job. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be between my modified FZ and a stock engined FZ or in this case an R7. In the clip below, you can see me follow him onto the front straight, close in and pass. I knew my bike made more power and pulled longer than it did stock, however this shows a real world difference. Money well spent in my opinion. The R7 will have a Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akra Ti VERY soon. My GoPro Adventure - 10/1/21 Shared using GoPro Ed

Health issues have prevented me from getting on the track thus far this year but it's looking like I'll be able to race this fall. With the down time I got a sweet paint job and cleaned up a few other details. She's ready to roll.

So I have tossed this idea around for a while and finally decided to pull the trigger. I cross rferenced all of the FZ07 and R7 parts list for the clutches and came up with this list to convert my FZ07 to a factory slipper set up. I trust factory parts so I feel confident about quality and longevity. I ordered the parts online, took about a month with supply chain issues. Cost was $305- I receieved the parts yesterday. Hope to install over the next couple of weeks. Ed All Parts (I Think ) Contents of Clutch Kit Parts List / Numbers

The dealer says October. I have 86 acres of farm land with 15 acres of woods so this is long overdue.

Thanks to our friend @klx678 for some great efforts during the research of this front brake mod, and some more wisdom from @mossrider along the way. This is a front brake only mod, nothing is changed about the rear brake. And best to our friend @D.A. who continues recovering from a nasty highside practicing knee dragging Stock bike OEM master cylinder is 15mm and caliper pistons are 27/30mm for a hydraulic area ratio of about 29:1 (an entry level brake). This Brembo 17RCS mod pushes that ratio to about 22:1. Before going there I want to say please do the background work for yourself and just know what you are about for this one. I cover the controls at all times, and use two finger clutch and one finger braking - everything I say in this mod is from that perspective. This mod has been tested with the ABS disabled and enabled by fuse pulling (without loss of speedo). I run without the ABS most of the time. Prerequisite EBC HH Brake Pads Front: EBC FA252HH Key parts as reviewed 110.C740.40 | Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta Standard (long lever) | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo 110.A263.85-1 | Brembo RCS reservoir kit in smoke | kurveygirl.com for all things Brembo Spieglerusa.com Phase 1 - connect brembo to abs "IN" port with new line, use bike's existing rubber brake lines from abs "OUT" port down to calipers 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 560mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x 20-00001-11 (single banjo bolt M10x1.0 in silver anodized for Brembo connection) 6 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum Phase 2 - replace brake lines from abs "out" port to calipers with braided stainless steel 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 736mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on one end and a 20 degree banjo fitting (type 002) on the other end. 1 x braided stainless steel brake line 515mm long and has a straight banjo fitting (type 000) on both ends. 10 x 09-29001-00 crush washer aluminum 1 x 20-00102-15 , double banjo bolt M10x1.25 1 x 20-00002-15 , banjo bolt M10x1.25 Support parts/extra replacements 6219613 | copper crush washers | Qty 15 | kurveygirl.com 105.1502.10 | Brembo bleed screw rubber cap | Qty 3 | kurveygirl.com 110.A263.89 | Brembo replacement RCS cap and flag | Qty 2 | kurveygirl.com 90464-18002 | Qty 2 Genuine Yamaha Grommet Tab Locator | Yamaha Wire-M187-F110 | Male .187" to Female .110" Conversion wire (brake switch wire-up w/no cutting of bike harness | Qty 2 | T-Molding.com Spiegler created a kit S-YA0324 from my brake line parts list - thank you! After I finished this mod and was confident in the lengths and materials was good to go, Spiegler was great and asked if they could create a "kit" by part number called the "Yamaha XSR700 ABS Front Brake Line Kit" for Brembo RCS master cylinders, so anyone who wants to do this mod can have a single Spiegler part number that takes you to the Spiegler ordering page for this kit, where you choose the color of lines and fittings and Spiegler will make sure you get all the other brake line parts you need to do this mod using my line dimensions, including extras like new grommets on the lines (so you don't have to re-use the Yamaha grommets like I did). Go to the Spiegler home page and search for this part number "S-YA0324", you will find some pics of my bike there to reference for how to route lines and stuff. You choose the colors for the brake line & fittings, Spiegler sends you the right brake lines, fittings/angles, with grommets ready to go. Thank you Spiegler and Matthias Schaub http://mschaub@spieglerusa.com, he was a great help. Installation You can install the 17RCS with only one new brake line from Speigler, that's the "Phase 1" mod with only 1 new braided ss brake line connecting the Brembo 17RCS to the abs "IN" port (and leave the rest of the front brake lines the stock OEM rubber). I prototype tested the bike in this Phase 1 configuration, then pulled it down and did the Phase 2 where all OEM front brake lines are pulled and replaced by Spiegler braided stainless steel lines. You can install this brake in a conventional handlebar/control location, or if you are like me you may want to locate the 17RCS exactly in a certain position relative to the grip, and move the starter/harzard lights control housing up the handler bar to make room for what matters. *****EDIT***** MOD 2023.05 Moved the handlebar control switch to the more common location on the handlebar - read down this thread to find things to be aware of when positioning controls. *****END EDIT***** Brake light switch included is good quality, and using the "Wire-M187-F110" spade flag connector wires you can attach it to the bikes harness without cutting the harness at all, the two "flag" type connectors for the existing brake can be plugged into these "Wire-M187-F110" wires and then that short piece of adapter wire can be "clamped" onto the Brembo brake light switch wires from the RCS17 switch. Brake light function is flawless, just do a good job of waterproofing, I used a "jacket" of heat shrink tubing shrunk "partially" to make a more snug & watertight .187 flag connections for these handlebar brake wires. Line Routing Let's stop dragging that abs sensor wire down the left fork leg to the left caliper, back up and over the fender, and down to the right caliper where the wheel sensor is located. In this mod, the Spiegler line from the abs "out" port travels down the right fork leg to the right caliper together with the abs sensor cable to the double banjo bolt connection, then the brake line jumps over the fender to connect to the left brake caliper via single banjo bolt. The brake line passes thru the bike's grommet locator (rigid metal bracket under the triple tree). It "skips" passing thru the 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator at the bottom of the triple tree, only the abs sensor wire is passed thru this locator. If you try to pass the braided stainless steel brake line thru both of these locators at the bottom of the triple tree like OEM did with the rubber brake lines, it would create a totally unnecessary and unwanted sharp bend in the Spiegler line. The brake line is secured in the bike's rigid metal bracket grommet locator under the triple tree by "reusing" the grommet from the OEM original rubber line (I removed it and reused it, but if you order from Spiegler they will slide this rubber grommet on the line for you, no need to reuse). I increased the "grip" that this grommet has on the Spiegler line, by cutting a small piece of rubber from an old inner tube (about 1/4" wide and long enough to go around the Spiegler brake line one time) and then wrapped the "reused" original grommet around that inner tube wrap. The important thing is that the Spiegler line is secured at this point so it can not slide up or down - that ensures the proper length down to the caliper that will flex with the suspension is always maintained. Also the "over the fender" brake line does not scuff or touch the plastic fender, and the brake line coming down the fork leg is nicely supported and "stout" enough so it does not flap around in the airstream at speed. The abs sensor wire is "zip tied" to the Spiegler brake line traveling down the right fork to the right caliper. The abs sensor wire has a grommet that was originally used to hold the sensor wire in place as it passed thru a metal locator bracket at the left caliper. This abs grommet on the sensor wire is in just the right place to now be moved up to the rigid metal locator bracket under the triple tree and clamped along with the brake line at this securing point. The abs wire then travels on up thru the Yamaha 90464-18002 Yamaha grommet locator and on up the triple tree to the abs. At the abs, this sensor wire now will have a surplus of length before it plugs into the wiring harness next to the abs unit under the right fuel tank panel. You can nicely protect this extra length by wrapping two loops around the wire retaining bracket at the frame yoke that is used to keep the bike's electrical harness from rubbing the frame when turning the bike. Also before I plugged this abs sensor wire back into the wiring harness, I took about 3" of large "shrink wrap" and placed it over this abs sensor wire connector end with a zip tie (but do not shrink it), to create a more waterproof "boot" around the connector. After plugging the connector into the harness, this extra boot makes a much better waterproof cover for that abs connection. Also, at this same location at the yoke of the triple tree/frame, I used a wrap of inner tube to add extra protection for the bike's wiring harness that passes thru this location (where the Speigler brake lines are moving and flexing when the bike is steered). One nice wrap around the wiring harness with the rubber inner tube piece, zip tie it in place, and the harness is protected from those flexing brake lines that might chaffe away at the harness without protection. Banjos at the ABS I think reusing the stock banjo bolts is best approach, the allen heads are easier to get a wrench on because close clearance with fuel tank above abs and they are steel so no worries reusing. I used (always new) copper crush washers (aluminum is fine too), and I picked some that were .5mm thick, because Spiegler banjo fittings are a little "taller" than the oem fittings, using a .5mm washer gives some length back to the banjo bolt threads screwing into the abs unit. Finger tighten both IN and OUT line banjos at abs and check all your routing (my pics will help) and clearance behind the air scoop (put scoop on and check the banjo positions) before you commit and tighten down on the crush washers. 17RCS Corsa Corta Review Quality, fit, and finish is of course the "cat's meow". It is in a way, like Brembo likes to suggest, a work of art - but I don't give squat for looks I want results. 17RCS delivers. You could order the 17RCS standard version, or the 17RCS Corsa Corta. I changed my mind at the last minute and ordered the Corsa Corta, you pick up an adjustable "free play" adjuster. Damn it turned out to be my favorite thing among everything that is a favorite on the Brembo 17RCS Corsa Corta. You can go look at features of this front brake master cylinder all over the web, please do, I will not repeat any of it here except to say what I like about the 17RCS. Expect to have more time and effort involved in brake bleeding and testing for weeping banjos & tightening to seal those crush washers. I used a reverse brake bleeder "V5 DIY 2104-B Brake Bleeder" available from Pheonix Systems or from NAPA sold under "Carlyle Tools" banner, or on the web everywhere car parts are sold. Test your brakes every night for a week after bleeding by doing this (to remove additional air from system AND show any "weeping" from banjo crush washers). At night you can use a couple zip ties (cable ties) to hold the lever under moderate braking pressure all night like you were squeezing the lever firmly - firmly but no need for crushing force pulling the lever. In the morning, hold the lever at this squeezed location and cut the zip tie, then slowly release the lever. It can "suck" any accumulated air bubbles at the top of the system back into the master cylinder where they travel up into the brake reservoir. It helps get air out of the system AND you can go look closely at all the banjos, if they are leaking go slow but tighten them a very little amount until they stop leaking each time you check and find weeping. You know what to do. I also repeatedly bleed the 17RCS first every day after releasing the zip tie (yes, the 17RCS has it's own bleeder screw on the master cylinder body), and then bleed off the top of the right caliper where the new "double" banjo bolt is, and then the left caliper where the "single" banjo bolt is. Pump off the left caliper to force any air in the line that jumps over the fender (and is trapped in the line over the fender) out of the system. Enough about bleeding, you know. Initial Bite You control how much free play there is in the lever before hydraulic brake pressure begins (only on the Corsa Corta). I really like running it with very little free play, as soon as I begin to pull with my finger I'm into the initial bite, you may hate that but hey, that's why it's adjustable. Brake character It's linear. I mean completely linear, the initial bite all the way to howling tire (I run with the ABS disabled much of the time). The stock lever, you begin pulling, and pulling, and pulling and still not getting anywhere keep pulling then it starts to build but not enough, you keep pulling, pulling until you are really standing on it and finally you get the serious increasing brake pressure needed for serious stopping or emergency. Not that way at all with the 17RCS. From the initial first bite, there is much less additional lever movement. As the lever moves, the braking force builds rapidly but at the same increasing rate as a function of lever movement. And there is no softness, anywhere. It feels firm all the time, even when only applying a small braking force. Firm does not mean "hard" to pull. It means every increase in lever movement must be intentional by the rider and you feel the result, even though it gives the impression that you are not pulling any harder, you simply are intentionally braking. With the ABS disabled, one finger braking can make that wheel howl, but it is not in any way a "touchy" or "grabby" brake. I have to squeeze with conscious intention to stop, but I can achieve even emergency stops with my index finger. And the feel is superb - it's interesting how a firm purposeful master cylinder also provides so much more confidence and feedback while still being linear and firm when compared to the entry level OEM brake feel. I know what is going on at the tire, I feel it thru my finger as well as all my other riding senses. I can really feel what's happening, that's what it's like. This brake and you You could hate everything about this brake that I like. It's how I brake and what I have always preferred in brakes, I go to lengths to make front brakes on previous bikes work somewhat like this one. But this is the easy way to get everything I want, I don't have to keep trying out my options to see how close I am to what I like. This brake puts me there, and you may hate that place. There, that is my disclaimer, don't do this because it will kill you and like all my mods, they all cause athletes foot fungus. My hand strength is diminishing because reasons, this 17RCS with adjustable lever leverage will keep me riding for some time to come. @klx678 did me a great favor jumping into my design with both feet early on and taking it to Brembo to get them to "sign off" on this ABS bike application & fitment, thank you amigo. I'm expecting there will be things I remember need said to help explain, so I will edit post as needed to keep it straight

Hey guys i just got the call from the dealer today my 2021 raven black mt07 is finally here i can go pick it up tomorrow after work but it’s going to be raining still might go get it anyway. I have a M4 full exhaust for it i bought womet-tech frame, axle and bar end sliders, tst smoked intergrated taillight and rear license plate fender eliminator kit. Will post picture when installed after i pick it up wish me luck it doesn’t down pour tomorrow .

Hey guys, new to the forum. Here is my 2020 MT07 with following modifications: Kenstomoto sabre custom headlight Kemimoto barend mirrors TST Industries integrated tail light and fender eliminator + plate light TST Industries pod indicators Shorty brake and clutch levers Akrapovic full exhaust system with carbon muffler Oxford heated grips Dynojet provision 3 ECU mod DNA Air box filter modification Will be custom painting the rims black with red negative spacing, photos to come

I finally made it to New York Safety Track. I was invited to a private track day. This track is amazing with elevation changes, off camber turns and as many left as right turns. Beautiful location at the top of a mountain in NY State. The people were great and super friendly. This was one of the best track days that I’ve ever had. If you have the opportunity, I highly recommend it. also, I absolutely F%ckin’ Love My FZ07 Ed

Went for a quick ride today and all is good so far. Bike tracked perfectly with hands off the bars at 70 mph. The bike feels just as nimble with 7 inches added to the swingarm. I deleted the rear ABS. It was just easier since I needed a longer line. The stock shock is on until the custom valved Penske comes in. Probably another week.

I installed new rearsets from Bellissimoto. Thanks @pgeldz, they look great. Now if it does not rain tomorrow I will be off on a test ride!

This weekend was the final weekend of our Track Season. My buddy Rob was there with his 2022 YZF-R7. We had one session together in the afternoon where we were battling back and forth, we had a great time. Rob has the Yellow R7, I have the Red/White/Black FZ-07, I have the Blue Air Vest. Our bikes are similarly prepped, Tunes, Pipes, Suspension. Here are some video clips. Ed https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4MO8rmx4Vk&authuser=0

After 14 seasons of being a "track-day" rider/coach, I've stepped up my game!!! At 53 years old, I'm doing my first club-race at my "most" local track- BIR!!! (Brainerd International Raceway), in Brainerd, MN.... I have many laps on that track, and can't wait to do my first sanctioned race, on August 12th!!!! I know the learning curve will be HIGH (to say the least ). I'm racing my "07" in naked trim... I'm NOT chasing championships, or points.... I'm only chasing my smile (and anyone that runs about my pace) ... I have nothing to prove to anyone. (other than myself)... It just feels "right"- I probably wouldn't be doing ANY of this without the guidance/support of @mossrider... Dave has been a mentor to me and encouraged me to pursue my race license - he even offered to lend me his totally "bad-a$$" FZ-07R to pursue my race license (which I declined at the time)... I can't wait to chase my smile!!!!

So here is the new look for 2022. I dusted off my spray guns, it's been 17 years since I last painted anything.

Here are my pictures and notes for the installation of the R7 Slipper Clutch. PART TWO - Installation Stock FZ / MT Clutch Boss and Pressure plate on Top / R7 Slipper on Bottom Note Ramps and oval shaped holes on Boss and Plate, this is how they disengage to provide slip Install rear spacer first, then R7 Clutch Boss and front spacer Then Beveled Washer with the word OUT facing you and a new Boss Nut. Torque Boss Nut to 70-ft.lbs and stake the lock tab. Place the transmission in 6th gear and hold the rear brake to torque the Boss Nut. Install Clutch Damper Spring Seat Then install the Clutch Damper Spring. Note the bevel faces outward. Then begin installing the friction and clutch plates in order. Assemble dry and then measure the stack height. Range is 32.7 mm to 33.5 mm. My first assembly came out towards the lower end. I realized that I used 2 of the thinner clutch plates. (see chart below) The clutch kit come with 5 standard plates 2.0mm, (2) thinner plates 1.6mm and (2) heavier plates 2.3mm. I reassembled with 5 standard 2.0mm plate and was at 33.5mm exactly. I then oiled the friction and clutch plates and installed with the R7 pressure plate. Torque Clutch Spring Bolts to 7.4-ft.lbs. Note offset on last friction plate. Clean the mating surfaces and put a new gasket on the clutch cover and reinstall. I found it lined up easy, slide the cover down and wiggle the water pump impeller to make sure it lock onto the drive shaft. Don't sweat the clutch arm alignment if it is off. Mine was slightly off, I just removed the C Clip and rotated the arm a few degrees until the marks lined up and reinstalled the C Clip. Torque clutch cover bolts to 8.9-ft.lbs Refill coolant. Install a new oil filter and oil. Install the clutch cable on the cover, adjust and tighten lock nuts. Then fine adjust at clutch lever to achieve 10mm free play. I think that's pretty much it. Feel free to ask any questions. Ed

Speedometer Scratch Fix – Cheap & Quick – Safe for Plastics By the photo below you can see how badly my speedometer/instrument cluster was scratched. I’ve always tried to clean it with a microfiber towel, but it’s taken it’s beating over 4 years and 30,000km. I wanted to post this because in my search travels I couldn’t find any solution that was detailed for a motorcycle. Hopefully people find this from now on. This combined with the reverse LCD screen made it appear much worse in the sunlight. So, I went to my local hardware store (Canadian Tire) and picked up a container of Maguire’s PLASTX. Other than that, we’ll need an applicator pad and soft cloth. I used some cotton cosmetic pads because they were closest to me. After working the product in until it was almost gone, I let it sit for about 2-3 minutes. Then wiped off with the cloth. Below is the result. Although not perfect because 2-3 of the deeper scratches couldn’t come out, I’m happy enough. It looks way better and not such a mess. I’ll post some closeup pictures below to further illustrate the effects.

And here it is!

Took the new Yamaha out for a shake down run. Since it's not street legal I only drove it several miles so I could test it through a series of round-abouts & on/off ramps (public carousels and chicanes). After I got home the cops stopped by looking for a clown on a race bike. Now why would they come here and ask that?

After 24 years together I’ve sold this beauty, wasn’t using it so best it goes to someone who will. Doubt I’ll ever have anything more pretty than that in the garage though.

Hello Folks, Finally finished the project. MT-07 with R7 Front end, Slipper clutch. Everything was a direct fit. Some research for sure. The only part modified was the Top Triple Clamp to accomodate the Bushings and Risers. Other upgrades include Ohlins shock and Fork cartridges, Quick Shifter, Akrapovic and ECU Mod, mofied airbox. All in all the bikes is really awesome now. I have it lowered as my daughter will ride it. Took 2 months of work

Hey everyone, its been a while since I've posted anything up but wanted to share my updates to the original build I had a couple years ago to my racebike. I changed the tail to the new R7 tail and subframe because I like it much better than the R6 tail that was on it. I also replaced the lower as Sharkskins updated the lower for the FZ-07 so I got the new style. Just got all the bodywork back from the painter today so got it re-installed and ready for graphics and stickers next. Bodywork is as follows: R6 - Upper - Sides - Seat FZ-07 - Tank cover - Lower R7 - Tail CBR 600 - Front fender

So now that my 07 is my dedicated track-only bike, I thought I should add an oil-containment belly pan for 2021. I found a manufacture called "Airtech" that builds generic body parts. I pulled some measurements, and ordered one. They make one called the "OCP1" that fit nearly perfect. They make an OCP1L (long), and a OCP1S (short) as well. I went with the standard length, and I only had to trim about 3/8" to make room for the exhaust. I made my own brackets out of aluminum flat stock from my local hardware store. It comes standard in white. As per Airtech, they suggested I use a spray-on bed liner for paint. Seems like a pretty good option so far? I never wanted a belly pan, and prefer the naked-bike look.... What do you guys think?

Hey guys, just picked up my first ever bike last Saturday. Needless to say….I’m in love with riding and in love with the bike. So many plans for this girl!

A video of my first stoppie and it wasn't planned The practice I've done saved me from what could have been a very bad day. When I realized I needed to stop as quickly as possible, I didn't underbrake or panic and lock up the brakes. Instead I was able to rely purely on my muscle memory of emergency braking. When the car was in my path it wasn't scary and it felt like another braking exercise. I simply gradually but quickly applied more and more brake pressure until I felt the rear wheel lift up. Next time you go for a ride, find an empty road in good condition and practice fast progressive braking. You don't want the first time you have to use your maximum braking potential to be a trial by fire.

Racebike is mostly done for this year. Still need to add numbers and a few other items but its very close. I will be racing it this coming weekend with AHRMA at one of our local tracks in Colorado. Never raced with them before so pretty excited to give their club a try. It will also be the shackdown for my season that starts a few weeks after that round.

I just picked up a pretty nice 2016 (totally stock) from a riding buddy and I've spent the past two weeks adding farkles and getting everything lined up. I'm a really old guy that has been riding for more than sixty years. I live in Central Florida and spend a good bit of time riding in the Tennessee and North Carolina mountains. Needless to say in all those years I've owned a bunch of different bikes but right now I only have the 07 and a pretty tricked out 2014 FZ09. Anyway I look forward to finding out some of the stuff you folks have been doing to your bikes to make them work just a little bit better. I also enjoy seeing photos of other bikes and reading about other owners adventures.

Hi i take my bike to test again this past Sunday and we make new numbers and new Personal Record 10.70@119 in 93 oct. I want to make 10.5 in 93 oct then use Mr12 again. I use Mr12 before and make 10.86@119 now with use 93 oct https://instagram.com/arturomt07?igshid=aoi4qkef5cnm

Noticed recently that my coolant temp was constantly changing. It used to settle on 178f and just stay there, but it's been bouncing +/- 10 degrees lately. Figured I'd check the coolant level and the reservoir was empty. The cap had gotten pushed off somehow! Filled it up and the temps are steady again. Whipped up a little locking tab so that won't happen again!

This is interesting, Yamaha Looks At Airplane Engines - AVweb Yamaha is dipping a tentative toe into the aviation engine market in... Our beloved scoot has spawned how many other cool concoctions?

There she is guys and f@#k that dude the M4 looks the cleanest on the black bike. Plus it sounds awesome and anything is better then that stock euro 5 compliant catted exhaust.

Well a bizarre 2020 is fast coming to a close but that just means next season is just around the corner. I piled up the last 5 seasons assemblage of toys for it's new owner, arriving in the great white north from Birmingham on Sunday. (We had snow today) I spent a day freshening it up a bit for it's journey. Farewell old friend. And drug this home for something to do over the winter. One of its owners 2 RC-51's. This one was raced years ago and has sat idle and neglected in the back corner of the garage for 10 years. It will be put back on the road in street legal trim so it's owner and his son can ride them together on weekends. Aside from this and a few other short term projects you just never know what will roll outta the shop come spring

Well P1 was cut short by a red flag incident but we got a good idea of what's what in the 3 laps we got. Q1 was good, we put it on the outside of row 3 in 9th. We have another swing at the pinatas tomorrow so we'll see if we can improve. Greetings from Road America!

My bike shifts very smoothly in all gears, at all RPM and at all speeds so I doubt the problem is mechanical. As @Triple Jim suggests, it is probably due to a lack of experience. If so, the only remedy for that is practice. We all understand that blasting down the highway is fun. It’s also pretty easy to do. In fact, ANYONE can go fast in a relatively straight line because it doesn’t require much skill. Going fast kind of fools you, too, into believing you are a better rider than you are. However, it’s the nuances that require skill and the best way to develop that skill is to go to an empty parking and practice the basics — like throttle control, clutch control, shift-timing, starts/stops, emergency maneuvers, tight circles, figure 8s, full-lock turns from a dead stop, u-turns, etc. One great parking lot drill is to see how SLOW you can go — creeping along at a snail’s pace — without having to put your feet down. It’s a lot harder than it sounds. And it’s the perfect way to learn how to finesse your throttle and get a feel for exactly where your clutch’s friction zone is. Until you learn those things, you’re not going to be able to shift smoothly on a consistent basis. There’s nothing wrong with ripping down the backroads. We all do it. The adrenaline rush is amazing! But if you’re doing it before having mastered skills as fundamental as shifting gears, you’re asking for trouble because you are not going to be prepared to deal with the unexpected. One of the hardest things for a beginner motorcyclist to do is keep his ego in check. Practice going slow in a parking lot? Sounds lame, right? People will think you’re a dork, right? The whole point to buying a motorcycle is because it’s cool to ride like Fabio Quartararo, right? My advice is to ignore the toxic masculinity and instead take the learning process one step at a time. After all, a rider who can make an effortless 180° turn in the middle of a narrow street looks way cooler than the one who blasts down the highway at 150 mph but then has to execute a u-turn as a 3-point maneuver. Or who stalls his engine pulling away from a stoplight. So... master the basics and you will literally be able to run circles around the clowns who only know how to go fast.

I bought my FZ-07 last Wednesday, then sent the ECU to 2WDW on Saturday. While waiting for that, I re-wired the high-beam flasher button to open my garage door. Turned out really clean!

Kudos to our friend @D.A. who continues recovery from nasty high side practicing knee dragging, he modified his existing vacuum lines on an MT-07 and I'm just repeating his success. This mod will build an entirely new vacuum setup for XSR700 / MT-07 instead of modifying the existing parts, so you can keep the OEM parts for a backup or a dog chew toy or whatever. Working this mod I was throwing "check engine" light, suspected vacuum leaks but unfortunately it simply is the Yamaha sensor begins to behave abnormally if the vacuum lines are modified too long. Air pressure sensor starts sending unexpected responses to ECU during engine braking/closed throttle decel, flashes the "check engine" light for a second or so around 3K rpms. If you're thinking to extend the lines all the way to under your seat, best give it up. So this mod is as all mods should be, simple, mildly invasive, and delivers a "plug and play" hookup to synchronize the throttle bodies with a manometer (like CarbTune). Nothing has to be perfect, but it does have to be correct. To see how @D.A. did it modifying the existing vacuum line, read this thread. Read what he did, check what I did, and then just do it your way, it will work out. Disclaimer - Like all my mods, this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus, and you don't want that Why this mod? - You would not ask, if you have tried to synch your throttle bodies (hookup CarbTune or other manometer). Stock vacuum lines are tough to get at. Best to just make easy access vacuum lines with rubber caps - so you can pull the caps off and slip on your manometer lines and get those throttle bodies in synch without removing the fuel tank or turning sideways, backwards, upside down, or whatever is in the book. Parts for this mod HPS vacuum hose 3.5mm here Vacuum hose clamps 8mm here Straight barbs 4mm here Tee barbs 4mm here Wire spring hose clamps here Bung caps 4mm here MotionPropilot screwdriver here small wire ties (cable ties) 3/8" (or similar) thin wall automotive rubber hose (to make a heat protective jacket around new vacuum line) 2' of 5/32" inexpensive auto parts store vacuum hose, so you can make a "test loop" for your manometer accuracy check Get the bike ready for the mod (XSR700) Remove the side covers and the side cover "backing plates". Also to get some room to remove the old vacuum line and plug in the new vacuum line part we build, disconnect the acceleration throttle cable at the throttle body. It will give your fingers some room to get in there on Intake #1 (left side of the bike). Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #1 We will replace Yamaha's vacuum hose that runs from the air pressure sensor (above cylinder #1 valve cover) to the throttle body #1 manifold nipple (left side of bike). Here's the part we will build It's all made from the hps vacuum hose. Vacuum hose clamps are used to connect assembly to the air pressure sensor at the top of pic, and to the throttle body nipple at the bottom of pic. The "Tee" is our modification, that let's us add a new line for connecting throttle body synchronization tool to Intake #1. Note the "Tee" uses small wire ties (cable ties), because they tell the mechanic to "leave this connection alone!". We provide clamps where technicians can connect/disconnect, but we don't want anyone to disassemble our mod. That 70mm manometer hose That worked for me, on my XSR700. But you may want to be smart and make it twice as long (temporarily) and then cut the exact length you want after you locate both cylinder # 1 & 2 hoses you make on the bike (but remember, too long and you will toss an ECU "check engine light" on decel/engine braking). Do this for sure though - mark the outside of the hose (ball point ink pen works) at the base length I show. Hose marks become reference marks on your longer hoses until you are ready to make the final "cut", and use the rule if you extend one you extend both same length beyond reference marks. Keeps total vacuum draw equal on both pieces, to prevent "skewing" the manometer readings between throttle bodies. Add a heat jacket Take a piece of 3/8" thin walled rubber hose, cut it 90mm length, then slit it all the way so you can open it up like a jacket and wrap it around the hps vacuum setup That's enough to protect hps from cylinder heat, hps doesn't really need it but let's do this the correct way. If the jacket is loose, you can put a zip tie around the whole thing just under the "Tee", and don't make it tight - you don't want to restrict the hps vacuum line inside in any way. You are ready to install just as it appears in the pic, the top plugs into the air pressure sensor, the bottom into intake #1 manifold nipple, and once installed you will see the easy access tube is sitting nicely hidden behind your side cover so nobody will jerk with it, but you know it's there when you need it. To remove the OEM vacuum hose, and to install the new part, use some needle nose pliers, but be kind to your product, don't do any damage to your part or the bike nipple and sensor when you plug it all together. Here is what it looks like once installed, (the side cover (and backing plate) were removed to do the install of the vacuum hose). The hose is nicely waiting for you to remove the bung cap, and plug into your manometer. And once you put the side cover and backing plate on, nobody will know it's there and mess with your bike. Next step, build a new vacuum hose for Intake #2 (right side of bike), and it's just a simple line with a bung cap on the end. Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #2 Let's work cylinder #2 on the right side of bike, and build a line to give it the same kind of easy access. Just follow the pic below. Like the cylinder #1 hose, if you want leave the hose longer than needed for the moment but be sure to make a reference mark at the 160 mm, so you know where I cut (and you can make both hoses longer, but the same amount of length longer than my hoses). Ya, that was tough work, I know. This is all you need for #2 intake vacuum hose. On the #2 intake manifold there is a nipple just like the nipple on #1 intake, only it just has a simple blanking cap and wire clamp closing it off. Remove that stock OEM blanking cap from the #2 intake manifold and plug your new 160 mm hps hose (you built from the pic above) into the manifold nipple (it's tough, tight to get in there, but you only have to do this once, that's the whole point of this mod). Bring the other end of the new vacuum line with the bung for connecting synchronizing tools up and out where the right side cover will hide it from folks you don't want messing with it. Very easy to just tuck up under the side cover mounting bracket. This right side vacuum hose is 160mm for a reason - that's the length of the vacuum draw on the Intake #1 hose, we want the lengths to be essentially the same. That's it. Now let's test our manometer to see if it is accurate, and then hook it up to synchronize throttle bodies. Build a test loop for manometer Assemble the loop you see below We use this setup to connect the single line at top to the Intake #2 easy access bung, and then the "two" lines below can be connected to two of your manometer tubes. If the manometer is accurate, the two tubes will have the exact same reading when you start the bike for a test. Edit 2022-07-30 - Always plug the test loop into Intake #2, because it will cause the air pressure sensor on the #1 vacuum line to throw an error. Go ahead and plug it into the bike Intake #2 easy access and to your manometer (I have a CarbTune shown below). Start your bike and you can check the manometer, are the readings the same? They better be, because both the manometer tubes are connected to a single vacuum source, our Intake #2 easy access bung. If your manometer is good, you are ready to check if the throttle bodies are in synch. From here on in, just follow the instructions on your manometer for how to set it up. You have an easy access vacuum bung on each side of the bike for Intake #1 and Intake #2. Here is my CarbTune hooked up to both intakes and a synch test underway And that's why we do this stuff. To make it easy, to check and know that the bike is correct, not perfect, but correct. If you have to adjust, MotionPro has a 110 degree "air/pilot screw driver" that makes it real easy to adjust Intake #2 to match #1. No removing the gas tank, we made this too easy. Remember this, we always adjust Intake #2 to match Intake #1 (don't mess/change Intake #1 for synching). Changing the idle rpms on the bike is a different banana. All for now, I will update if anybody needs more details of what we are about on this mod.

DISCLAIMER This was a summary of my experience following the shop manual. You should know that this is a procedure with major potential for damaging your engine if you do this incorrectly. What follows is intended to supplement the shop manual, not replace it. The shop manual is absolutely required for this service as it provides exact steps necessary and corresponding torque values for fasteners and heaps of other useful bits of information and helpful diagrams. Perform this service at your own risk. You should be familiar with taking apart your bike for other service before you begin. You should have a firm grasp of how an engine's valve train works to understand what you are doing and why. Tools/supplies you'll need: Yamaha's FZ07 factory service manual 7.48mm OD valve shims - buy a kit or exchange shims with a dealer/shop I used a Hot Cams HCSHIM01 kit. Amazon will say it doesn't fit an FZ07 and they are wrong. 1/4" drive torque wrench 3mm trimmed hex key for cam chain tensioner 2.5mm - 14mm hex drivers or keys 8mm - 13mm box wrenches 8mm - 19mm sockets 14mm deep socket for spark plugs 19mm socket for crankshaft nut (same size as front axle) 1/4" socket extensions, wobble Extendable magnet to pull spark plugs New cam chain tensioner gasket (if you want) New valve cover rubber gasket (if you damage the original one) Feeler gauges Vessel to contain drained coolant Big ass pliers for the coolant pipe spring clamps Philips screwdriver for worm hose clamps Plastic zip ties Air compressor to blow spark plug wells clean (optional) Funnel (optional if you're brave) Gasket sealant or grease (optional if your gasket behaves and stays in place) Procedure Drain coolant. Allow the coolant to drain while you complete the next steps. Remove plastic body work. Remove gas tank fasteners (1, 2), breather hoses (3), and front electronic sensor connection (4) Lift up gas tank to remove fuel pump connector (1), then lift and rotate gas tank counter clockwise and rest on cardboard on the frame. Rest the aluminum bendy tabs back where they were fastened, and the black steel portion on the cardboard. Whatever direction you twist it, be sure that when you replace it, you twist the opposite direction. You could remove the tank if you'd like but that requires removing the fuel line from the tank. Now that the coolant has drained, replace the drain bolt and begin removing the radiator. Remove the fairings, radiator guard (if equipped), and the single bolt on the throttle side (1). The radiator hands on 1 rubber grommet on the clutch side, 1 rubber grommet near the triple tree, and the single bolt you just removed. There's an inlet hose on the top clutch side, an outlet hose on the bottom throttle side, and the small overflow line near the cap. Remove each of these lines however you wish - I removed the bike-side connections for each hose, not the radiator-side, but it doesn't really matter. Remove the horn's electrical connections (2), and the fan motor connection (3). The radiator probably has some residual coolant left, be ready with paper towels. Gently place it on some cardboard with the hose connections facing up (4). Remove the clutch cable guide (1). You're now ready to remove the spark plugs. Unplug each coil (1) and tape each plug to the frame so you remember which side is which! Pull the coils by hand only. Then pull the plugs using a 14mm deep socket and wobble extensions. When removing the coils and plugs, mark on a big sheet of cardboard which coil is which (2) so you know it all goes back together when it was removed from. If you're doing this service, I hope you've removed them once already and left yourself some silicone grease or similar on the rubber boot seal so they're not so hard to remove. Remove the crankcase breather hose (1). Remove valve cover bolts in a criss-cross pattern (1). Zip tie various wiring harnesses, cables, etc out of the way before you begin. Then wiggle and lever out the valve cover without damaging the rubber gasket (2). Place the valve cover gasket side up on cardboard. Remove the crankshaft end cover with 14mm hex driver, and remove riming mark access cover (1). Use 19mm socket and turn crankshaft counter clockwise until timing mark on flywheel aligns with mark on crankcase cover (2), and marks on intake cam sprocket (3) and exhaust cam sprocket (4) all align. Your engine should now be in the service position for valve check and adjustment. DO NOT TURN THE CRANKSHAFT ONCE YOU REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER. THIS WILL MISTIME YOUR ENGINE AND YOU WILL HAVE TO RETIME IT. By having 4 known reference points, the engine can be timed correctly if you make a mistake - ask me how I know. The reference points are, in order of verification: 1. timing mark on flywheel/crankcase (crankshaft position), 2. piston #1 (clutch side) at TDC of compression stroke (you can place something gently through spark plug hole to rest on the piston crown and turn the engine to visualize the peak of travel when the timing mark is aligned incidating TDC of compression stroke), 3. the intake camshaft timing alignment mark (parallel with head edge), 4. the exhaust camshaft alignment mark (parallel with head edge). Now you're ready to begin checking the valve clearances. If you haven't done so already, plug the spark plug holes and the coolant output hose (1). Note that the lobes of piston #1 (clutch side) are not engaging the valve lifters ("buckets") at all. Slide the feeler gauges between the buckets and the cam lobes to measure the clearance (2). Intake should be 0.11-0.20 mm, exhaust should be 0.24-0.30 mm. You're looking for something between "no-go" and "slides right through". The gauge should kind of "stick" in-between the two. You'll "feel" what I mean - that's why they're called feeler gauges. Begin writing these down on a diagram that is explicitly clear which piston is which, and which valve is which. When you're sure of the measurement, rotate the crankshaft 270 degrees counter clockwise and measure piston #2. You could use one of those paper angle wheels or if you're like me you don't have one. I just very gently placed a long hex wrench through the spark plug hole onto the piston crown and rotated what felt like 270 degrees until I saw the piston's peak of travel visualized by the hex wrench beginning to go back down (3). If you do this do not let the angle of the hex wrench catch underneath the camshaft caps! Measure the clearance just as piston #1 and record. If your valves are all within spec, you're done! Put everything back together by following the steps in reverse order. If not, proceed to adjustment.

Prepped for CMP (ASRA/CCS) this weekend. Third season on this bike, first season with white plates. Run most of the mid-Atlantic rounds and then Daytona if everything goes well. Tim

It's hard to recommend, when I don't know what your intended use is? I'll tell you what I did, and why. My 2016 FZ-07 was a street bike for several years. Now it is my dedicated race bike. I will list my recommendations in the order I feel they are most important: 1) Get the ECU flashed by 2WDW (They are a site sponsor of this site). The bike will do everything better, even without intake/exhaust mods. They can remove as much of the engine braking possible, and improve the entire riding experience. I've gone through "Nels" @ 2WDW on (4) of my bikes. They can tune it to your liking, and if you add exhaust/intake mods to your bike, they will "re-flash" to accommodate your changes (for FREE). They usually run a Black-Friday special for like $249 2) TIRES!!!! I don't know what tires are on your bike? The OEM sport-touring tires are good for commuting/highway use. They wear well, but are a pretty hard rubber compound. If the current tires are needing replacement, I'd recommend the Dunlop Q3+. They are a dual compound tire- meaning the center of the tire is a harder compound (for long life), and a softer compound on the sides- (for cornering). I've used them for track-days in the past, and they the best bang-for-the-buck tire (in my opinion). You can usually pick up a set for about $350. 3) Suspension- I've wasted a lot of money on PREMIUM suspension in the past . Contrary to what most people think, you most likely do NOT need every adjustment available (unless you are racing at the pro level). Most people don't know how to set-up a suspension properly (myself included) ... My "race" FZ-07 has the suspension that most street riders chose. My lap times are within a second or two of the folks that $pent 2-3 times what I did. -In the front: I recommend the "Traction Dynamics AR-25 kit". This gets you to 95% of what a "full cartridge kit" will get you- at half the cost... You fill out a form, and explain your riding style, and your weight, and they handle the rest!!! Everything comes on one complete kit- (oil, proper fork springs, and the proper valving in the action-rod), you drop it in, and go!!! My personal opinion is- this the best option for a budget bike like the FZ/MT-07. The kit runs about $400- -In the rear: I'd go with the K-Tech "Lite". It's their "entry level" rear shock. I personally run the K-tech Razor "R" on my 07. It has the remote reservoir, and much more adjustment options. That being said, I run the K-Tech "lite" on my street R3. Once I got it set up to my liking, it felt nearly the same as my Razor "R" on my "07". You can pick up a new K-Tech "Lite" for about $495 (set-up for your weight). 4) Exhaust & Intake: This where most folks start .... I personally disagree with this approach. Most motorcycle enthusiasts do NOT want their bike to sound like sewing machine (myself included). Yeah, you can toss a full exhaust system on most bikes, and the EFI system can most likely compensate for it. With that, you most likely won't be gaining anything (and may actually LOSE HP/performance). This gives the rider the "illusion" of HP, since it sounds cool.... Intake & Exhaust go hand-in-hand. Do both at the same time, or don't do it at all.... Exhaust: I personally chose the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. It's pretty quiet with the insert in (compared to it competitors). You can remove the insert for more "bark" if you like. It carries a price tag of about $1K.... I agonized over this, as I didn't want the spend that kind of money. I justified the purchase, as the ENTIRE system is underneath the motor (no side pipe). One right hand "drop" in a parking lot will wreck every other exhaust system. My advise, is spend the money, and smile . Intake: The "Hordpower" intake system is the BEST $300 I've ever spent!!! You get a totally new intake system (2WDW can tune it to match ANY exhaust system). This will take your "07" from not making power after 8K, rpm, to pulling HARD all the way to redline!!! As stated earlier, the exhaust/intake mods should be the LAST mods to make (in my opinion). All of the above mentioned items should be done BEFORE intake/exhaust. As much as I hate to acknowledge it, the FZ/MT-07 was built to a price-point... The stock motor is plenty for most folks. The chassis is the weakest-link on this bike for most riders. The above post is based ONLY on opinions (mine). I'm not an expert, but I wanted to share my experiences with others. Hopefully my experiences can save others the costly mistakes I've made over the last 40+ years Sorry for the "Novel", but the question WAS asked -

Rode up the mountains to break in my new tires. This was my first real ride since my crash last month. Completely unexpected rain cut my ride short but at least I got some cool photos.

After years of wondering if what they say about the Striple is true, I found one at a reasonable price: 2017 675R with 3200 miles on it and nearly new Michelin Road 5 2CT tires. My only complaint is the fork high speed compression damping is just as bad as the FZ's. And it spins about a thousand rpm higher than the FZ at 60. But that means it's pretty peppy boy! And Oh that exhaust note-a siren song if ever there was one. I can say it is a class above the FZ overall but then again the original price was about three grand more than the FZ. And it is chunkier than the FZ but...

I'm going to try to be brief , but don't take this as being condescending or rude. Everybody has a different budget, and sometimes you ain't got the budget you used to have last year. I build tons of my own stuff because I'm cheap, and also because I'm not rich. That's aside, I've tried all sorts of bandaids on suspension stuff. The guy on the internet who spent $28 on fork oil and eBay preload caps and "completely transformed!!!!" his bike is lying to you. Perhaps not out of malice, maybe he really thinks it's better. IMO Dave Moss's "fix" for our "DANGEROUS" forks lands firmly in that category. Look at your own post. #2 Add preload. #3 Remove preload. Which is right? They can't both be right. There's no harm in tinkering. Go for it and have fun. 99% of the time the improvement you were looking for will cost you something on the other side of the coin. If you want it right, you know what you've got to do. It doesn't have to costs thousands to be real good, but it's not gonna be free. And when it's right, you'll kick yourself for not doing it sooner. I spent ages band-aid'ing bikes. I bit the bullet and did it right a while back. It's eye opening. Now, I just bought a new bike recently and immediately went out and ordered proper suspension for it. When you know the difference, you'll not have the patience for fiddling with internet fixes anymore. Good luck on your journey

here is a pic of mine: Yamaha FZ07 Inverted Display with RPM Color kit Imgur: The magic of the Internet not the best but looks better in person.

Did a Track Day at NYST yesterday with my son and some friends. Tried out a new rear sprocket, 42 tooth, like the new R7. I liked it, gives a little more range in 3rd and 4th gears which I use most of the time. Got some good pictures too. Ed

hi guys, this is my 2017 glacier blue fz07, only 1800 miles. I just got it a couple of weeks ago. Just crossed 2k miles! first owner took great care of the bike and did quite a few mods to it! Getting the hang of riding around town, I’m taking the MSF class this weekend. Got all my gear too. I’m so excited!

Now I'm at BIR for a Zars track day Tuesday and Wednesday. Split time deal with Attack Yamaha and Westby Racing in the house. Attack has a new R7 in the truck with some of their parts on it. I'm trying my best to behave and maybe get a run on it after Jake Gagne and Josh Herrin are done hoonin around on it. Of course they have their respective race bikes here as well. Gonna be some fun. Oh and then we're here for a club race Fri thru Sunday. I should find a job. Nah.

P11 in Q2 so we dropped to the 4th row for the race. When the start lights went out Brett went to work and got it done. Finished in 7th even after blowing Canada corner and dropping 4.5 seconds that he clawed back to make a beautiful last lap pass to rectify! My best finish to date, thank you team!

What do you hope to achieve by installing a new exhaust system? Identifying your goal will guide you to the right decision. Do you think the stock setup is ugly and want something prettier? If so, the simplest solution is to replace the OEM heat shield. There are decent-looking carbon fiber heat shields on eBay for $89 + $7 shipping from Hong Kong. Want something that looks like a traditional race muffler? Buy a cheap no-name slip-on from Amazon. Is the goal to make the bike louder? Drill holes in the stock exhaust. Doesn’t cost a dime. Have a specific sound you like and want to emulate? Figure out what exhaust system makes that sound and buy it. Hoping to impress other riders? Are friends teasing you because you still have the stock set-up? Is bolting-on a different pipe primarily about making a fashion statement? If so, shell out the big bucks for a full system from one of the popular name brands like Akra, Yosh, Graves, etc. and avoid oddball manufacturers. You won’t impress people sporting a can nobody ever heard of. Want something that will hold its value so you can take it off and resell it when you get tired of your FZ/MT and want a different bike? Ditto the previous suggestion about going with a recognizable brand. (Also, no sense leaving an expensive exhaust system or other exotic aftermarket parts on a bike when you sell it because those items rarely increase resale value. You’ll just end up giving them away with the bike.) Looking to seriously increase horsepower? Then sell your FZ/MT-07, combine the proceeds with your exhaust budget and buy a larger-displacement motorcycle. A new exhaust, tune and shipping for your current bike will cost you $1000 and net you 5 horsepower, whereas your bike plus that same $1000 will get you an FZ/MT-09 with an additional 45 ponies and much better suspension. Regardless of the system you choose, keep in mind that if the new hardware alters exhaust flow, you’re going to need to have the ECU flashed or find some other way to adjust fueling to compensate or your performance will suffer. So be sure to factor in at least another $250 plus 2-way shipping costs to cover that service.