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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Thought I'd share this upgrade I did recently on my MT07. It came about from owning both an R3 and MT07 at the same time, and absolutely hating the way the MT07 switch gear worked, as well as the "parts bin" look of the switch with it's missing component on the right-hand side. Anyway, I decided to install an MT03 switch instead primarily because it's so much easier to operate while riding with far more tactile switches that are also positioned better. A bonus is that it looks a lot better too and like it was actually designed for the bike. It's not quite plug and play and took some testing with a multimeter and perusing the wiring diagrams to sort out but in the end is very simple to do, especially now that I've deciphered it. So here you go, for anyone who hates the stock switch, grab one from a MT03 and follow the steps below. IMPORTANT: The R3 switch will not work. Although the switch is identical, the R3 has separate low beam and high beam circuits for each bulb and so the green wire at Pin 10 does not exist on the R3 switch. The correct part number is B04-H3972-00 from a 2016 onwards MT03. The incorrect part number is 1WD-H3972-00 from a 2016 onwards R3.
  2. 2 points
    I don't mind what anyone thinks of my bike. Just like they have no idea, as I go by, whether I am a flash git youngster or the old geezer that I am. I just know that it is the perfect bike for me and my kind of riding. I am grateful to Yamaha for stopping me - just in time- from buying some other rather heavy boring twin.
  3. 1 point
    New to this forum and have been reading non stop for a day, lots of good info. I am not new to bikes but have not owned one for 10 years so getting back into riding. 53 years old and in Michigan. Picking up a 2017 with 3800 miles on it for a great deal imho. Needs a little work but just gives me an excuse to do some mods. Thanks
  4. 1 point
    Hi All, Just saying hello from Ireland and also saying I'm loving this bike. I've had about 40 bikes in a similar amount of years riding and this MT is definitely one of the best.
  5. 1 point
    When I ordered mine the part number fit the 15-18 models 1WD-H3972-00-00 SWITCH, HANDLE 4
  6. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. This might help. I would snug the bolts down and then torque from the middle out. The service manual does not say the order to torque the bolts so I would expect it does not matter too much.
  7. 1 point
    I'm not aware of anyone using the H&B centerstand. I've seen many here that have gotten the SW Motech, myself included. Even the SW Motech can have issues on clearance with certain exhausts but I have no clearance issue using it with the Akra Ti exhaust. Good luck.
  8. 1 point
    Over here the MT07 is generally held in high regard. Value for money is very good compared to other makes and models. The Yamaha distributor here hasn't raised it's price in over 2 years. The new Yamaha T7 is about 3000 euro more expensive so the MT compares very well. Other bikers I know love the bikes for durability and its high output engine and so do I. I'm still being amazed at the acceleration and speeds achieved by a 700cc parallel twin. I've not heard anything negative about them yet.
  9. 1 point
    Welcome and congrats!
  10. 1 point
    I know, this is a crazy fun bike and it's hard not to feel wild on it, I did at first too but you have to contain your feelings a little and use some calm and self control. I noticed @ :34 your choice of when to pull a wheelie isn't the greatest and your timing in editing adds weight to what I say. If you were ever going to adopt a rule of thumb to help contain your wild feelings and help keep you safe I would suggest the old one, "there's a time and place for everything. I think you're a smart enough guy to know why and when to apply that rule so I'll try not to sound too much like a red headed step father and leave it at that. Have fun but be smart about it and stay frosty! One other little thing, if you know how to do it YOU CAN downshift without the clutch. I do it occasionally, not that I have to, I do it mostly just to clear any developing cobwebs. I doubt it will ever help me (emergency braking maybe???) but I just like knowing how to do it. The trick is to crack that throttle a split second before you push down on the shift peg with a quick snap. Just think rev matching so it goes a little smoother. It takes more force and snap than the upshifting w/o a clutch but it is doable. Ciao!
  11. 1 point
    Hello @Zephyr and thanks for your in-depth judgment. Indeed I have 1-year experience on a 125cc bike. Then I decided to move to MT07. The shift to first gear was unnecessary but I really love the torque that this bike makes at the first gear so I am shifting down whenever it is possible just to have some fun. This road was completely new to me so I should probably follow your advice and go softer on routes that I don't really know. However, I feel like that I didn't push the bike to its limits considering that I always have enough space to brake effectively. The rear wheel chattered as you noticed because I braked and shifted down aggressively at the same time. I am doing that sometimes to brake faster mainly because I am used to driving without an ABS. I don't know if this is right or wrong but I feel more comfortable with this riding style. Regarding my lines, I will agree with you that I need some practice but you don't really have choices when you are riding on a public road. I am just trying to stay as far as I can from the opposite direction. Also, I am not using a quickshifter. I am just kicking in the gear sometimes without using the clutch. I know that this sounds strange and destructive for the bike but in fact, if you do it the right way you will be able to upshift faster and more smoothly. Note that you can't use this technique to downshift. ***Sorry for my mediocre English but I am not a native speaker.
  12. 1 point
    I never found the throttle/fueling to be snatchy. It is fuel injected, so the throttle response is very crisp. It doesn't have the sluggish nudge that a carb'd bike gives you (no hate for carbs! love my carb'd bikes). The engine braking also never struck me as excessive. I quite enjoy it. Bike people seem to call them small bikes, but I don;t know why. Compared to my buddies VFR it doesn't look small to me at all. Non-bike people seem to love it. I'm amazed at how often I get complimented on it's looks or sound by random people in parking lots. Always lots of questions, which I'm happy to answer. I just categorize it as a really fun bike. Super agile handing, super punchy engine that sips gas and great looks. It's not a 150mph flyer, and I don't care. i';s an all-day-comfy roadster than I can hoon on endlessly in complete comfort with stellar reliability. Zero complaints!
  13. 1 point
    Do not care what other people think, to me the MT-07 is a completely adequate 600/700 class street fighter, aggressive UJM, multi-role machine. The multi-roles being things like, uh, street hooliganism (which I do not do), commuting, light/medium touring. I like the engine braking, do not find it significant or extreme. The seat and suspension and apparently other aspects of the 2018 + MT-07 is improved over the FZ earlier bike. At 5'-11" and 160 pounds I think the suspension is fine for the intended uses. Speaking of hooliganisms, the MT-07 has auto-wheelie, it powers up in first and requires little urging in second. Beginner bike, maybe, for somebody with discipline, certainly better than a 600SS but there are a lot better beginner bikes than an MT-07 which effortlessly does triple digit speeds. I come from the era when the Hodaka 100 was a great MX bike ridden by adults and a Honda CL350 was a pretty big bike (had both) so I do not buy into this you have to have a 1000cc bike to be a man. While I do not consider myself such, there could be a few people who have thought me to be fairly expert, lol. And a motorcycle career of over 48 years, dirt bike racing, TT Scrambles, Hare and Scramble and limited street bike racing and still occasionally racing MX, I am hardly a beginner. So, for me, the MT-07 is not a beginner bike.
  14. 1 point
    I'll try My schedule is kinda full over the next month, and I dailydrive the bike so i can't just drop it off with the shop for it to be done. I'm hoping to have it by the end of august
  15. 1 point
    Honest assessment. Skills are good/above average for a "beginner". Beginner in Greece might be a far different rider than beginner in US where you can literally attempt this kind of riding from your first day ever on a bike with zero skills. I expect that you have a year or more on a moto prior to this bike/video and at least an instruction class or two. The shift down to first gear early in the video threw me as I wouldn't expect to see the need for that, so wrong gear selection (maybe). It's hard to see the slope angle so perhaps it was a steep slow section. Minor thing. Also later in the video did you get some rear wheel chatter from downshifting to a low gear? Sounded like it but could really tell. Some of your line selections through the curves were questionable. Were some of the roads new to you? You looked hesitant on braking and line selection at times which could lead to target fixation/mistakes. Riding style is (overly) aggressive. Which likely means that you are riding near the limits of your skill set. Personally I try and ride well below my skill level on the street to ensure that I have a good deal of "cushion" ie: caution if needed. There are a few roads that I will let loose on which are out of heavy residential areas and less traveled. I'm also very familiar with them so line selections, etc are not something that I have to think about. There is a "high" rate of motorcycle deaths in my county (usually 6-10 per year ~20-25 in state) County Population = ~200k. So I'm a bit cautious. For Instance: The last death was due to an impatient driver (cager) overtaking on a no-passing and blind hill and hit the motorcyclist head on trying to save a few minutes on their commute to work, so caution is a must around here. My advise would be to practice your skills at a lesser speed, become very familiar with the roads that you enjoy riding, then you can pick up your speed / aggressiveness in small increments to stay well within your limits. Also getting the front wheel up is fun, but isn't necessary for every corner exit and 50m of straight road. Side Note: The exhaust sounds great and are you using a quickshifter? sometimes it appears so, and others not.
  16. 1 point
    It'd be a hoot. I tracked my old RD's. I race against them once in a while depending on what class I'm playing in. They can go to beat hell if the owner/rider let's them due to their age. They can make an easy 60-70hp tuned, weigh 250#, 6 speeds, and that sound, yeehaw! Metzler has modern rubber for vintage stiuff now too, Metzeler Brings Out 18" Tires for Classic Racers - Asphalt & Rubber Vintage racers know all to well the difficulty there can be when it comes to finding appropriate tires for the race track, as the odd rim sizes of classic motorcycles are often outside the sizing parameters of good modern sticky... Kinda miss the old girls.
  17. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum.
  18. 1 point
    If the wheels are an old size, the latest and greatest track DOT tires will not be available. That would be a negative.
  19. 1 point
    Rode the Back of the Dragon with a buddy today. Probably only around 300 miles, but about 9hrs of seat time. I absolutely love my FZ. Corbin seat is worth every penny. Brosef's 60k mile '94 VFR750 looks showroom fresh and sounds amazing. My phone camera sucks, but it was a great day!
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
  22. 1 point
    Welcome and congrats!
  23. 1 point
    Nice pic! The water looks cold.
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    I'd get a new cheek pad set for a smaller Arai RX-Q and stuff them in, if that helmet fits well otherwise. They should fit just fine. Cheaper than a new helmet too.
  26. 1 point
    Hi everyone... So, it's finally time to do my 8K service, and I thought I'd change my DNA air filter to a new one. I'm pretty particular, so I never just clean, re-oil, and reuse these "reusable" filters...I just buy a new one. I figured instead of ordering a new DNA filter from Greece (there are no US distributors), I'd try something else. The guys from work all love the MWR air filters. I never even heard about them before I started working there. Did some light research, and it seems the Ducati guys and 2015+ R1 guys rave about them. Plus, the factory Kawasaki World Superbike team uses them and they've been dominating for the last two years so how bad can they be? I'm like, it's just a foam filter, how can it be so good? I figured I'd give it a go. Due to MWR airfilters being entirely constructed from foam and having no rubber mountings or mouldings MWR are able to utilize nearly 100% of the available area as filter element, improving air flow and increase performance. They make 4 types of filters, in this performance order - Performance, HE (high efficiency), Race, and WSBK. The filter material is the same for the Performance and HE. This would be competitive with your K&N, DNA, etc., as in, they provide a performance gain with similar filter change intervals. The Race and WSBK filters uses a different foam, which give much more performance, at the expense of filter change intervals, i.e., after a race weekend they need to be cleaned and re-oiled. The only filter they make for the FZ-07 is the Performance filter. So, after changing to new OEM plugs for the 8k service, I decided to try the MWR filter and do some dyno testing. Since the plugs were new, and the DNA filter was over a year old now, it wouldn't be a fair test, so I ended up ordering a brand new DNA filter so it would be an apples to apples comparison. In both instances, I was using the DNA airbox cover, so this is a straight up test between filters only. The DNA airbox cover is essentially like removing the stock snorkel, only it provides a nice radius edge for smooth airflow entry into the airbox. Some pics to get started... DNA airbox cover: DNA air filter: MWR air filter: MWR air filter (bottom side): You can see the bottom of the MWR filter is all foam, so theoretically, there is more surface area for air to pass through. Ok, on to the dyno testing... It's important to note few things to understand the methodology behind this test. My aim was to find out which filter performed better. The test will show 3 different dyno charts, all on different days, and 2 were from a different dyno. Because different conditions and different dynos produce different numbers, and one dyno used correction factors and one didn't, you won't see HP or TQ figures on these charts. You will see GAINS FROM STOCK, which is much more important. I WILL have an absolute back to back test, on the same day, on the same dyno, so don't worry. For now though, I want to walk you through how this all went down. I used 91 octane from Chevron exclusively for all this testing. This is my original dyno chart when my bike was first tuned at DynoJet. You'll see that the stock bike with snorkel removed had good gains over stock. Adding a little timing made it even better. Then the timing was back to stock and the DNA filter and DNA airbox cover were installed and the bike made even better gains. The take away from here is the Dark Blue line (completely stock bike), and the Dark Red line (completely stock bike with DNA air filter and DNA airbox cover). You'll see the DNA filter and DNA airbox cover made great gains everywhere, especially in the midrange. Ok, then we added the Akrapovic Titanium exhaust without baffle, and the Green line was the final result. Now that we know the DNA filter and DNA airbox cover worked great, I took it to my buddies shop a few months later to do some other work, and asked him if he could improve upon DynoJets' final tune (the Green line in the above dyno chart). He did a baseline run with the final tune from DynoJet, and then tweaked their map a little. Here were his results: Slightly better everywhere. He said the tune form DynoJet was very good to begin with, but was able to safely eek out a little bit more...probably because the tune from DynoJet is the one they used for their website for others to download, and was slightly more conservative since there could be different variables for people downloading that map across the country (fuel differences, different weather conditions such as altitude, temperature, humidity, etc.) So this brings us up to date so far. Last week I installed the MWR filter and brought the bike to my buddies shop. He started with the DNA map, and optimized it for the MWR filter. Here were the results... The MWR filter was better everywhere by 1 hp. He said the MWR filter liked to run ever so slightly leaner than the DNA filter. He then told me specifically NOT to say the MWR was better, because the comparison wasn't apples to apples because the DNA dyno run was from a year ago and the conditions could have been different. ARRGH. I had to know unequivocally which filter was better, so... I went back to the shop the next morning to finally get my answer. LIke I said before, although the maps were still very, very close, the DNA map was slightly richer then the MWR map, so... We did dyno runs with the DNA filter, and both maps, then we let the bike cool down, changed filters, and did dyno runs with the MWR filter and both maps. This time I'll just type the results because the dyno chart was so close you can't see the differences. DNA filter, DNA map: baseline MWR filter, DNA map: + 0.6 DNA filter, MWR map: + 0.7 MWR filter, MWR map: + 1.1 This test shows that no matter what map was used, the MWR filter came out on top in each instance. - Paulie
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