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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/11/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
  3. 2 points
    I find my rear brake very squishy. It's enough to get around town where I also use a lot of engine braking, and is useful for stabilizing, but I really don't put much stock in it for stopping power. I try to remind myself to brake with the front even when I don't need to because I don't like getting into the habit of relying on the rear, then being slow to jump on the front during an emergency.
  4. 2 points
    Mossrider: "Road racing, top notch" My son, a resident, took his bike-mad 6yr old son to see the road racing there. After watching a dozen or so riders go by, he turned to his father and said: "Can we go home now?".....!
  5. 2 points
    thanks! having ridden it much yet, but for the time i have, feels like it's going to be a fun bike. came from a grom, duke 390, to mt07. guess you can say i'm taking baby steps, but i'd like to feel like a pushed a bike to it's potential before i make a jump up.
  6. 1 point
    Hi all, 2017 MT07 owner from Ireland here. Have owned the bike now for 1 year and love it.
  7. 1 point
    Me either. I'll have to put that one in the memory bank of comebacks, for when someone is talking through their sphincter a little more than needed.
  8. 1 point
    The FZ07 was renamed MT07 for 2018 2018 Yamaha MT07 (MT07JGY) Fender | Babbitts Yamaha Partshouse Shop online for OEM Fender parts that fit your 2018 Yamaha MT07 (MT07JGY), search all our OEM Parts or call at (231)737-4542
  9. 1 point
    Ok, here's a quick and dirty write up on how I converted my 2017 front end to the new 2018 style. This is assuming you have a general knowledge of pulling parts off your motorcycle, a little bit of electrical know how, and can look at a thing and figure out how to put it together lol. What you do to your bike is on you. I take no responsibility if you mess something up. First, here's the parts list. Keep in mind I reused quite a few nuts and bolts from the old headlight, radiator covers, etc. so this isn't a complete list of everything if you are starting from a blank front end. Headlight assembly (reusing some parts from 2017 and earlier housings) https://www.yamahapartshouse.com/oemparts/l/yam/5aba716e87a86612183a04ec/2018-mt07-mt07jgy-parts <-Ordered the OEM parts here (1) Headlight Assy B4C-84300-00-00 (1) Stay, Headlight 1 B4C-84118-00-00 (1) Stay, Headlight 2 B4C-84119-00-00 (1) Cover B4C-84396-00-00 (1) Plate, Front UR FOR MNM3 (Alternate color options) B4C-28361-00-P1 (3) Nut, Spring 90183-061A7-00 (2) Collar 90387-06170-00 (2) Screw 90149-06328-00 (1) Bolt, Hex. Socket Button 90111-06038-00 Radiator sides (1) Cover, Side 3 B4C-21731-00-00 (1) Cover, Side 4 B4C-21741-00-00 Turn signal wiring connectors http://www.cycleterminal.com/nt040-yamaha.html <-Ordered OEM style electrical connectors here Start by yanking off the old headlight, turn signals, and radiator sides. Separate the turn signals from the headlight housing and reinstall on the new radiator sides. Install the new radiator sides and turn signals reusing the bolts and collars from the original covers. Now, what I did was use OEM style connectors and made extensions for the turn signal wiring to reach the new locations. For wiring, I used a spare 4-pin trailer wiring harness I had laying around. I just pulled the extra wire off and cut it to the right length I needed. I didn't have the right tool for crimping the connector pins to the wiring but a pair of needle nose pliers worked surprisingly well. I installed the turn signal side connector first, plugged it in and temporarily ran the wires up to the headlight area and cut the extra wiring off. Make sure to leave a little slack to account for the the motion of turning the bars back and forth! After I had everything cut and the rest of the connectors on, I plugged everything and checked that everything worked as it should. Then I pulled the extensions and wrapped them up with some black electrical tape. Then I carefully routed the wiring up to the headlight area and connected to the bike-side wiring. Make sure to route the wires up and away from the radiator and fan and zip tie any loose spots. Now you're ready for the headlight. Start off taking the old headlight cowl and sides off, keep track of where the bolts, collars, and spring nuts go and start installing the new headlight using as many of those parts as you can. The general assembly of each headlight is very similar. Headlight, side stays, cowl. The new headlight adds a trim piece underneath that is attached with 2 self tapping screws, and a nut spring and bolt in the center. Up top at the cowl, the 2 lower holes will require new longer bolts and the top holes use a nut spring and you can reuse 2 of the old bolts. Don't forget the little rubber trim that goes over the little lip underneath of the cowl. Now the new headlight has 2 parking light bulbs whereas the old one had just one. This means you'll have to splice some wiring together. What I did was splice the 4 wires into 2 on the new headlight and reused the old 2 pin connector to reconnect to the bikes wiring. To do this, you'll have to unpin the connectors. I used a tiny hex wrench to reach in and hold down the little clips so I could pull the pins out from the rear. Pain in the ass, but patience prevailed and I got them all out. Use the splicing method of your choice. I used heat shrink over all my connections. I don't know a whole lot about wiring but since I spliced 4 wires into 2, I figured I would cut down a tiny bit on the draw by replacing the 2 halogen parking light bulbs with Sylvania W5W LED bulbs. Now, on the bike, You have to replace the lower headlight mount. Just pull the old one, transfer all the rubber mounts to the new one and reinstall with the old bolts. At this point, just install the headlight like you would the old one. Tilt the headlight forward and set it on the lower mount, plug in the headlight and parking light connectors, tilt it up, and reinstall the 2 upper bolts. Turn the bike on and check the lights. Turn the bars full lock each way and make sure no wires are being pulled. Also make sure to adjust the headlight properly. The adjustment screws are at the rear and are similar to the old headlight. Also note that I installed the 2018 front fender as well. If you got this far and you can pull the front wheel and brake calipers, installing this will be a breeze. It reuses the old bolts and collars and actually eliminates a few bolts and brackets as well. Any questions please ask below and I'll be happy to answer!
  10. 1 point
    I would suggest you go to a parking lot and practice braking drills for an hour.
  11. 1 point
    There's normally a quick disconnect designed into the wiring to allow bag removal when needed. Some are more easily accessed than others. The nicest ones I've seen have a weatherproof port on the outside of the bag that the wiring is plugged into that you can unplug prior to bag removal.
  12. 1 point
    I use the Grip Puppies. They're thick, soft and comfortable. they aren't cheap compared to other foam grips so why did I buy them? The puppy on the package looked cute and made me feel safe. https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Puppy-Comfort-Grips-Original/dp/B00CP9ADD8/ref=sr_1_1?crid=18I8G6HRN43LJ&keywords=grip+puppies+comfort+grips+for+motorcycle&qid=1560262880&s=gateway&sprefix=grip+puppie%2Caps%2C168&sr=8-1
  13. 1 point
    It's certainly not for everyone but I'd consider putting the kid in a gunny sack and dropping him the riv....kidding. Those guys need popcorn bowls for seats to carry their balls.
  14. 1 point
    scat2me "I don't see how ABS would have helped. Glad your OK." I think what he meant was it was 'too late' for them to help, not that they don't help. The point is if you don't apply the brakes (ABS or not) in time they don't help one bit. Be safe!
  15. 1 point
    This is a good video showing the advantages of ABS.
  16. 1 point
    Yep, the west coast is especially beautiful.
  17. 1 point
    An addendum: I feel the @2wheeldynoworks tune quieted it a bit. I'm not really sure how that works, and I'd just assumed I was getting used to it , but I've had other people ask if I changed something because it seems quieter.
  18. 1 point
    ABS allows you to stop basically as fast as a very good rider in controlled circumstances. As soon as you lock the rear, you lose braking power. If you're under the point of locking the rear, then you're leaving braking power on the table. It's worse on the front, of course: lock the front and you almost certainly go down, don't lock the front and you're probably again leaving braking power on the table. Yes, an extremely skilled rider will be able to outperform ABS (in the right situation) but ABS allows even us not-Rossi sorts to brake to the limits of the available tractions capabilities. This is why all cars (and now all street bikes) have ABS. It allows you to maximize braking without risking loss of control, and it allows that independent of driver skill. If he had ABS, he *would* have got more braking out of the rear (as he locked up the rear). He would have been able to safely get more braking out of the front too, and likely would have freed of the fear of losing control.
  19. 1 point
    This was really good advice, and I feel kind of dumb for not thinking of it. I feel a lot better now; it's certainly audible but it's not a big deal. People can deal with that for 10 seconds when I leave. This is good, overall, because I really like what the exhaust looks and sounds like and was getting increasingly conflicted about swapping it out.
  20. 1 point
    Like I said in my build thread, I never thought that the stock suspension was that bad. I’m 175 lbs, 195 with all my gear. My first 2 seasons on the track, the suspension was adequate. The Dunlop Q3s made a big difference. Seat time and classes made the biggest improvements. I did the Yamaha Champions Riding School in September, it was on the second day that I started to notice the front end felt slightly unstable when pushed hard and my rear tire was showing signs of poor rebound. Then I went and rode a new R6, one of YCRS’s bikes for a few laps. Without any adjustments, I could not believe how stable and firm that bike felt. Made me wanna run out and buy one choosing suspension was hard, I read so many posts on this board about suspension choices and opinions. I had decided on the Ohlins fork cartridges, one because I believe that Ohlins makes good products and two because it was reversible, I did not have to modify my fork tubes. I was going to get the Ohlins rear shock but found out when ordering it that it did not offer compression adjustment, only preload and rebound. That’s not necessarily a bad thing, I just wanted more adjustability for track use. I then decided to go with then K-Tech Razor RR and Andy’s Dog Bone, if Andy says that’s the combo, I believe him So that’s how I got to where I’m at. So with all that said my first impressions were that the bike is completely transformed. I started with the base (recommended) settings and thought that the feel reminded me of the R6 I rode. With the AP dog bone and longer RR shock, 319 mm, the bike steers quickly. Straight line high speed stability feels the same as before, I was afraid it might have been twitchy with the raised rear, but it wasn’t. The bike feels planted and stable in turns, it is confidence inspiring. I had the local suspension specialist at the track dial in the settings for me and it felt even better. I’m using about 3/4 of the travel on the forks and shock. I was concerned that I would want to believe everything felt better to justify the costs, but I can honestly say that this was a good investment, I really couldn’t be happier. What is your intended use for your FZ? Street? Track? Combination? i think that there are probably many good choices for suspension components for our FZs. I think if you go with popular companies like I did, Ohlins or K-Tech you really can’t go wrong. I think having suspension that is adjustable is the biggest improvement since it allows you to set it up for your weight and riding style. don't know if this helps you or not, but I have no regrets with my combo. Ed
  21. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum. We have a search bar, and in that you can type in questions and see years of discussions on this and most any tech topic. Happy hunting!
  22. 1 point
    My Bike has 1540 miles. I changed the oil and filter at 100 miles with Castrol 10w40 regular oil. At 600 miles with Castrol 10 w 40 multi blend and at 1100 with Castrol Multi blend. I'll be changing at 1600 miles with Bel-Ray EXP Synthetic Ester Blend 4T Engine Oil 10W40. Once I use the full synthetic i'll go longer between changes. The cost is minimal and it makes complete sense to change every 6 months or 4K. You can get a 4 pack of OEM ( Genuine Yamaha Oil Filter 5GH-13440-60-00 Filters) on ebay for about $55.00 that's about $14.00 per filter + the cost of oil. The Bel ray Synthetic Ester is about $35.00 for the 4qts. So for less than $50.00 you make sure the bike is well maintained.
  23. 1 point
    The Akra Ti sounds 1000x better than I imagined it would!! Can't take it anywhere without disturbin the peace hahaha! Just started a youtube channel if anyones interested...
  24. 1 point
    Man, even in the canyons, if you've got proper body positioning you shouldn't be scraping really. That being said, I think with the soft stock suspension it might be a lot easier... so thats a factor.
  25. 1 point
    The OP only posted this one post, a year ago and never returned. By now he is probably on an FZ07 facebook group asking how to pull a wheelie or which stickers add more hp. Anywho, Dirtbikers learn TO slide their back tires out in corners, and once in a while I slide the rear a lil bit on a street corner. Streetbikes don't just slide out on their own on dry pavement unless you are really pushing it or hitting the rear brake.
  26. 0 points
    Last Wed, automotive writer Davey Johnson went missing while on a press ride, testing a Honda CB1000R in California. Davey was one of the first writers for Jalopnik back in their early days. He has written for Car and Driver and many motorcycle magazines and websites. He is a good man, loved by many. They found his motorcycle on Wed at a rest stop. On Saturday, they found his clothing, laptop and backpack on a riverbank. He had texted his freind and GF on Wed telling them not to worry, he was ok and taking a rest at a rest stop. That was the last anyoone has heard from him. If you believe in prayer, please pray for Davey. The entire automotive/powersports publishing industry loves him and hopes for his safe return. Massive Search Underway for Auto Journalist and Former Jalopnik Writer Davey Johnson The global community of automotive journalists isn’t particularly huge, so when something happens to one of our own, it gets our attention. When it happens to one as well-liked, respected, and well-known as Davey Johnson...
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