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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/15/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    I thought you were on to something when I looked at what you were saying, but it did not perform better anywhere then just pulling the snorkel. These were literally done 5 minutes apart with that being the only change so its real data
  2. 3 points
    Here's an interesting set of graphs from today's skunk works session. These compare similar Suzuki SV builds to my Yamaha. Due to club racing superbike rules package these are all on stock bore even tho the SV's are allowed a 2mm overbore if they were racing in MotoAmerica. The Yamaha's aren't allowed an overbore in either to keep things closer. The yellow trace is my builders personal 2nd Gen SV race bike. It has bored throttle bodies, ported head, shaved gaskets, lightened flywheel, cams, stock bore, running 91 pump gas. This was previously the stud on the superbike grid. The blue trace is my race partners 1st Gen SV. It has massive flat slide carbs, ported head, cams, shaved gaskets and running E85 for fuel (don't get me started). He needs to re-jet a little to get fueling correct between 9,000 and 10,000rpm. The green trace is my previously posted final tuned run. Several ways to get to the same point on a graph. Yamaha has a distinct edge in mid-range and no longer falls over at high rpm with the intake work vs stock. And I'm pretty sure there's some cheater parts in those old SV's like Hayabusa or JE pistons, the classic "I don't know what's in there" or "it must been like that when I got it", lol, whatever. Either way there's 2 butt hurt Suzuki guys now.
  3. 2 points
    Recheck your work. If you had the throttle, tube, grip, cables apart it's very easy to get something just a bit off during reassembly. You can end up with a bind or rub somewhere. Check that the cables are in their respective tracks on the tube collar. Make sure the tube assembly nub is aligned with the hole in the handlebar if you're still using it. Make sure the inside of the grip isn't to far onto the bar that it's rubbing on the end of the bar. Also the inside face of the grip can rub the switch gear assembly if pushed on too far (some have Teflon discs in there to reduce friction) And lastly be careful with the amount of lube used in the cable sleeve. Less is more here. Otherwise you can make mud and create a friction sink. Good luck!
  4. 2 points
    Thank you for running it and posting the data. I will be pulling it off completely (the Snorkel ).
  5. 1 point
    About to pull the trigger on a 2019 Tracer 900 GT. Haven't been this excited (about a bike) since I got my FZ-07 in 2015. It's been an awesome bike but it's time to get something with just a little more for what I want.
  6. 1 point
    Got my bike with very little info about what the original owner did to it for mods. As it tuned out, I got a lot of them! Yoshimura exhaust (the carbon fiber one), DNA air filter, lower bars, the motion pro throttle tube (that I only noticed after buying one to install! ).... hope I find more. But I was not sure if the ECU was flashed to handle the mods correctly. I was going to send it to 2wheeldyno works, but after looking at local options, I found a very reputable dyno/racing shop about 20min from me that had a few race FZ 07's for sale. I removed the ecu, dropped it off, and within 24hours I have what feels like a new motorcycle. Roll on throttle is way smoother, mid and high end RPM's are actually usable, and the engine braking is way less noticeable. I know that last one could be put into a "negative pile" for some, but to each their own. On top of all this, the engine feels less buzzy. Almost like the timing has been adjusted properly! If you live in the Portland area, go see the good people at EDR performance. If you don't, please send what you got to 2WDW.
  7. 1 point
    Since the original post was in "general discussions", I assume that this isn't a race bike??? Do yourself the same favor I did- pull the trigger on the Hordpower intake system. If your'e nervous about riding in the rain, K&N makes a "pre-filter" wrap for that filter. I bought one, but I don't think it's needed .... Hord did ALL the research, and developed with both an ECU flash, as well as a PCV map (if you go that direction as I did). He is pleasure to deal with, and that intake system + PCV map is by far the BEST $300 I ever spent on my bike!!! It pulls like a freight train! And no, I don't work for Hord, I'm just a very happy customer-
  8. 1 point
    It was covered in last month's AARP mailing, lol.
  9. 1 point
    I cant argue that one bit. Theyre also local to me so even if their prices weren't as good as they already are, I'd still be inclined to support their business. With that being said, Im still to cheap. HAHA. My friends say Im a tight ass... I once swallowed a penny and pooped copper wire.
  10. 1 point
    S21's , S22's, what ever it takes!... Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S22 Tires | 28% ($58.76) Off! WWW.REVZILLA.COM An evolutionary step from the popular S21, the Bridgestone Battlax Hypersport S22 Tires feature a new tread pattern and reformulated rubber.
  11. 1 point
    Yes, I use an 8 cell Anti Gravity lithium ion battery. Mine is a LiFePo4 technology which stands for Lithium Iron Phosphate, which is one and the same with Lithium Ion. I'm not going to say don't follow the manufacturers reccamendations, you can do whatever you want to. I will say they can be charged with regular chargers and they can be destroyed by regular chargers as some use de-sulfation technology to regenerate lead acid batteries that will kill your expensive lithium ion battery. Many automatic lead acid/AGM chargers also start charging with a voltage spike that can exceed what the LiFePo4 is designed to accept. This is the one I have to charge this battery but I've yet to need it in the 4 years the battery has been in my bike. For $40 it's retarded to argue one way or another. Battery Tender Junior Selectable Lead Acid/Lithium Charger | 10% ($4.49) Off! WWW.REVZILLA.COM Lithium battery or lead acid? The Battery Tender Junior Selectable can be set up to charge either one. I'm no expert but the Lithium Ion batteries offer many benefits over older lead acid batteries for our intended purposes. Our bikes have more reliable voltage regulators than many old manual or automatic chargers and under normal use in a motorcycle with properly functioning electrical system the battery is never greatly discharged or overcharged (death for a LiFePo4 cell).
  12. 1 point
    The OEM airbox is pretty well made to meet a variety of regulations, etc.. i just think it's just lacking the ability to be useful past 7k rpms... Shorter intake tracts(none inside the box) or go the "Hordpower" or filter pod route seems to be the trick...
  13. 1 point
    I have heard this a few times that people think it will. Just look at the intake of any modern ram air bike and this worry will quickly go away
  14. 1 point
    Here's some more good news, That's some serious giddyup in the lightweight/twins class, that's middleweight speed!
  15. 1 point
    If you add up what their tune and that full exhaust costs if you buy it anywhere else, its already a good sized discount they are offering. They basically knock a couple hundred off the full exhaust price when you buy it with a tune.
  16. 1 point
    Last year they had a Father's Day sale. Perhaps they will do that again this year.
  17. 1 point
    I'm running higher intensity LED bulbs in the OEM signals. I have no plans to change them.
  18. 1 point
    Motorcycles don't experience the same pulling issue as four-wheeled vehicles. Even if the rear tire is crooked in the swingarm and the forks are twisted in the clamps, there are only two tires, so the bike will self-correct and go straight. Now, the bike between the tires might be crooked and crab-walking as a result, but it won't pull the bike/bars one way or the other. There's just not enough tires on the ground to redirect and pull the bike around. I had a buddy that swore his bike was pulling and he asked me to follow him and watch. When we stopped I asked if he realized how far off-center he was riding on the saddle. "Huh?" The bike had a shift lever that stuck out really far and he was unconsciously shifting that way to compensate. He's a big boy at around 260lbs. That amount of weight off-center was enough to make the bike feel like it was pulling. I had this issue once with a really unbalanced load of groceries in the saddlebags That said, the dealership should be willing to at least look at the bike, even though I'm sure all dealerships spend a lot of time dealing with little niggles that suck up a lot of their time. So, we can be compassionate for them while still expecting good service, but without demanding anything. But yeah, you are under warranty and they should be willing to check the bike out. It'd take them 15 minutes to verify rear wheel alignment and relax the forks in the trees.
  19. 1 point
    "Ride like everyone else is trying to kill you" - MSF Course Instructor "There's one more idiot than you think there is on the road" - my Dad. (I finally figured out that the last idiot was me...)
  20. 1 point
    Most everybody believes themselves to be an above average motorist. Any time spent on the streets will confirm that people are not very good at self evaluation.
  21. 1 point
    As a general rule, I scold myself if I think no idiots were near me on a ride. That means I just wasn't paying enough attention, and I should do better. "Thankfully" I usually count plenty of them on a given ride.
  22. 1 point
    I'm certainly the last person to dissuade testing and tinkering but if you search Hord, Hord Power, JD Hord, intake, performance upgrades or anything similar you'll find that there is actually a metric crap tonne of information on here including dyno charts. Go to Hords web site and all the dyno charts are there as well as on here. Having said this a person could easily use this info as a guide to save time and effort and go in unexplored directions to develop new data.
  23. 1 point
    DISCLAIMER: My place of work, TST Industries, does not offer tuning or dyno services. This is something we do in-house for our own race bikes, product R&D, and employee bikes (for shits and giggles). For all tuning and dyno needs, please contact the forum vendor @2wheeldynoworks and they will work to get you and your bike set-up for the best performance. Decided to throw Bloo up on our Dyno under the stock exhaust, filter, and ECU. I should mention I'm running 89-91 pump gas. (91 when available, otherwise, 89 compared to 87). Next, I plan on getting an ecu reflash with 93 gas and the stock exhaust, air filter. Then it will be ecu flash with 93 gas and exhaust and the last step will be ecu flash, 93 gas, exhaust, and MWR air filter. My goal is to put out as much factual data as possible for people to see what each modification does in terms of power with respect to each complimenting modification. There's a lot of misleading information out there so I think this would be beneficial. TLDR; my bike makes 68.49hp/48.94tq with stock exhaust, 89 gas, stock air filter and no tune.
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