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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/23/2020 in all areas

  1. 9 points
    I wish I had documented the progress as I went. Better late than never.... I can honestly say that I'm "done" modding my FZ-07. I'm 50 years old, I a neck fusion done a few years ago. That made riding my KTM RC390 on the track impossible, as I couldn't lift my head up high enough to see where I was going . I needed a bike with a more upright riding position. I ordered a KTM Duke 390, and pulled the "go-fast" parts off my RC (to but on the new Duke). After several missed deliver dates, I bought a brand new "carry-over" 2016 Yamaha FZ-07 instead (two weeks before my first track day of the 2017 season). In hindsight, I'm glad the deliver dates got missed. I have never been as happy with ANY bike in the last 40+ years of riding. This bike was mostly going to be used on the track. I did sometimes street ride it though. This year the bike is my dedicated track-only bike. I didn't even license it for 2020, as I picked up a new 2019 Yamaha R3 for the street last fall. My neck can tolerate the surprisingly neutral riding position of the R3 on the street. Here's a list of all the mods I've done over the last three years, as well as some pictures. Let me know what you think . - Dunlop Q3+ (front & rear) - K-Tech Razor-R shock - Racetech springs and Gold Valve fork emulators - Preload adjusters for the forks - Hordpower intake - Akrapovic Ti exhaust - 2WDW ECU flash - Speigler braided brake lines (front & rear) - Woodcraft rear sets - Woodcraft water pump slider - Vortex 520 chain & sprockets - T-Rex crash protection (full kit) - Renthal "ultra-low" bars - Tech spec tank grippers - OEM Yamaha seat cowl - "Engine Ice" coolant - Cheap Ebay windshield (used as a number plate) *required at some track days* I'm probably forgetting a few things as well? It took me a while to get the suspension set-up correctly, but it was worth it! I've never been happier on a track as I am on this bike. I had a lot of fun putting all this together. I'm too far into bike to ever sell it. Last summer I was offered $10K for it (from a guy with too much money). I politely declined-
  2. 8 points
    We have wheels! I'm well pleased with this. The wheels are only loosely bolted on so that I can move the bike around but I love the stance and proportions. Hopefully things will move on fairly quickly now. The race engine build is pretty much there, just waiting on the cams. Slipper clutch has arrived and some fresh gaskets.
  3. 8 points
    Ok ok, here ya go...this better?
  4. 8 points
    Business is good and we keep taking more and more orders for parts and helping with some really neat projects with people. Here’s the catch... at this moment we have a couple big projects to build for the coming MotoAmerica series that will need significant attention in the form of complete MA twins bikes For a couple weeks I’m going to have to turn down any custom work or building any items for customer that are currently of stock until after we complete the bikes for customers. I won’t be taking deposits for parts I can’t ship in a timely manner unless you want to arrange to it by email through the website. This is just a note for the community, we want to provide not only nice custom parts but a great experience as well. As many of you know I do this mostly for the love of the sport and it’s definitely not what pays my bills. Thanks for your understanding.
  5. 7 points
    Hi. I don't know if anyone is interested in this but I'm building a Supertwin race bike around a mt07 engine. Most of the rest of it is custom build although I'm using an aprillia swingarm and the headtube and front portion of an MV agusta frame. The side plates are billet alloy with adjustable swingarm pivot and the yokes are custom made with adjustable offset fitted to ohlins forks. Rear suspension will be bitubo r6 shock with a custom rocker link. The engine rules over here in Europe are much looser so I've modified the head to take 2mm oversized valves and I'm having the cams re-profiled. I've got wiseco pistons, modified for the larger valves. It'll have a modified generator and a slipper clutch. The throttle bodies have been bored to 41mm and they will be mounted on silicone 45 degree bends to allow a large airbox to be made under the tank cover. The tank, airbox, subframe and airtubes will all be hand made and at the moment I don't know what bodywork it will use. The aim is to finish it in March ready for this season. I'll post some pics of the progress so far.....
  6. 7 points
    I've been fiddling around with bodywork today, nothing serious, just trying to get the lines right. Tank is a MV brutale which works fine with the throttle bodies and gives me plenty of room for the airbox. Tail is CBR but I'll probably make something up that suits it better. I've got a RCS and some M50 brembos ready to go on and next week I'm going to strip the loom and have a go at making a race loom.
  7. 7 points
    Almost 1 year ago we built our first subframe for the FZ07. I never really like the way it worked and the plugs that went into the tubes. I know others have since made other solutions that I found equally difficult or more so to install or service. The original design was 3 pieces allowing to replace any item that bent separately and also allow the subframe to be installed without each part being in tension. I still never really loved the design and only built a few. Move forward a year. Going to try and add plugs to weld to the frame and allow the entire piece to be removed as one unit. So far I've machined the aluminum part for the subframe side and working on the steel slugs with matching interlocks. We will test it on our SV's first but I think I can pass it along also to the FZ riders if all goes as planned.
  8. 7 points
    Here is a photo I took in of Area 51. I think I can just make out @pgeldz's bike starting a speed run up the runway .
  9. 6 points
    Busy work in the shop today and the weather was nice to boot! Buttoning up motor connections, tidying up random paraphernalia, and looky here, The spare skins all patched up and ready for paint, look pretty good and are a direct replacement for the primary set. Went through the front calipers and new Motul 600 for them. Set the preload on the new steering head bearings. The rest of the glass going back on after an off season refresh, Ready to take some Suzuki scalps and run amok with the midpack mutts.
  10. 6 points
    So I realized that I never put the results of our first race weekend up... For those of you who don't follow Tarmac Faction on Facebook or Instagram, here ya go:
  11. 6 points
    The people that support me and sponsor me really make it happen. Don't ever believe in that "self made" bullshit you see out there. Somebody somewhere, or multiple people, whether family or friends helped you along the way. Give credit where credit is due.
  12. 6 points
  13. 6 points
    In the wild! By now, you've probably seen the bike in the other thread, but I snapped a pic in it's natural habitat, the paddock, LoL. I'm at Auto Club Speedway in Fontana, Ca, doing a bit operational shakedown tests. So far so good. Bike flat out RIPS! Motor feels extremely strong, fueling is perfect, and suspension supple but firm. KTech did an excellent job of getting me a good baseline when they did the initial cartridge install...tire wear is perfect, and I didn't feel the need to change any settings. Operationally, it was a successful test. Bike held together, and more importantly than anything else, I feel safe on it. As far as lap times go, I can say this...my best time so at would have netted me 5th place in the last WERA race here for the class, and it was less than a second away from 4th place, and 3 seconds away from a podium. Of course, it's all relative because I don't really know the level of competition, but that's where I stacked up against the last race in the class here. I'll take it as a positive, since I haven't ridden in 10 months, I'm on a new bike, and I've never been to this track before...
  14. 6 points
    Good news, it’s working!! The screen wasn’t damaged beyond repair. Both Evil_Ed and cornerslider were right, the issue was temperature. Having left the bike outside, the screen had been subject to the typical English cold nights and frosty mornings. The screens are tested to the limits, however they do have their own limits. There was no condensation, no water damage, no dead pixels. Never been in an accident, etc. The remedy to fix this issue (for my case that is); I firstly removed the dash from the bike, unscrew & unclip the dash from behind. I brought the unit indoors, firstly bringing it to room temp. I also had the central heating on so that sped the process up. leave at room temp for a few hours. You want a gradual increase in room temp so condensation doesn’t build up when bring the unit indoors. If you notice condensation, wipe the houses unit and take steps to have a steady increase in room temp. I unscrewed the back housing, removing the LCD screen and motherboard from the plastic housing. Don’t touch the LCD screen with your fingers, hold the unit from the edges. Again leave at room temp for a 5mins. Then on a low pressure, hot temp, I used a hairdryer on the screen and motherboard. (20-30cm away from the unit) warming up the screen bringing pixels back to life. warming up the motherboard, to a warm temp (I think a gentle heat and electronic is good, when not working) but what would I know ;). If you can’t tell I’m really happy the dash is back to life, and I can ride again :)))) Warm with this method for 10-15mins, flipping from LCD to motherboard etc. Don’t forget the sides of the unit. Do a full 360degrees warm up. I then put the rear housing back on, leaving the front off, to still stay warm to room temp. Keep clear from dust and other fibres landing on the screen. After an hour or 2. I put the front housing on, screwed the unit back up. I left it for a full day to warm to room temp, then in the evening, I plugged the dash back into the bike, and we have lift off :)) please don’t buy a new dash if this doesn’t work on the first attempt, I’ve been doing my research for this and LCD screen are very touchy with change, so don’t give up on the first attempt. Retry and if not, contact an Digital Dashboard repair company. Thanks for your helpful comments.
  15. 5 points
    Ha, I restored dozens of older bikes over the years as a hobby and absolutely loved it. It was so fun to waste a sunny summer weekend hooning around on random old stuff, running from Dairy Queen to brat feed to swap meet! And I actually miss changing fouled spark plugs on the roadside or calling my wife to bring the truck and pick my dumb ass up. The wife, who rides, didnt share my love of the vintage stuff. My problem was racing started to consume all my time, all my money and all my sanity, lol. It got to the point I simply had too many carbs to keep clean, too many old gas tanks to keep rust free, too many tubed tires leaking air and weather checking too continue. Luckily, my wife developed a love of the track and now track works at several racetracks and cant get enough of our shared passion. I gave up the restoration stuff and sold out. Now I'm throttling back my racing and find that helping out around the paddock is its own reward and we truly enjoy the people, smells, sounds and sights of the track. It's our lake home.
  16. 5 points
    i agree, I wouldn't replace it. I'd run it until it shows more wear. Doesn't look that bad and there is totally no sense in putting a new chain on old sprocket, it will ruin the chain in short order. Better to run the old one longer then replace sprockets and chain.
  17. 5 points
    So due to stupid weather I had 4 1/2 feet of snow to get off the roofs. In return I got 10 days of stupid sickness, disease and pestilence as a reward for getting the snow off roof. I haven't got much done until today. So w/o further ado, I got the motors swapped over. Lined up & ready to go, One out, One in, Sadly, still not much done. We'll start the season on a fresh motor anyway.
  18. 5 points
    Top of the morning! Its a dreary Saturday here in VA so I figured it'd be good start to delve into the early stages of this build. Obviously, the first step was to strip the bike down to nothing more than a rolling chassis with the motor still in place. The hardest part of that undertaking was the damn OEM airbox... Once it was stripped, it was time to take a good look at the subframe and OEM brackets scattered all over the frame (all of it had to go). I wanted the seat line to be as parallel to the ground as possible, kinda like the Jigsaw Customs XSR700 tracker build But trying to work around the curved subframe with the end goal of having a seat line parallel to the ground seemed too much of a problem to be worth the effort: So I bought some .065" wall 3/4" carbon steel tubing for my upcoming version of the subframe. I had to hack a bunch of the OEM stuff off first though before I could get off to a good start... Once the upper rails of the subframe and a good portion of the OEM brackets were gone, I took a few measurements, coped the 3/4" tubing, and got to welding. I went ahead and buffed down the passenger footpeg bosses, welded the holes up, and then blended them nicely into the frame as well: To satisfy any curiosity, if you've noticed the red tie-down straps, they were used in leveling off the bike side to side along with measurements from two equal points on the frame to the top triple clamp, so I could get the bike to stand as square as possible, which in turn would translate over to the new subframe top rails being as square as possible. It just required two holes to be drilled (one into my workbench frame, and one into a wall stud of my shed), two ratchet straps, a torpedo level, and a keen eye. Here's a better look at my home-made leveling rig Once I got all that squared away (no pun intended), I finished removing what was left of the sock subframe, and added a new cross member of the same 3/4" tubing mentioned earlier: Not being satisfied with the OEM crossmember of the subframe directly above the rear shock and still showing the passenger footpeg bosses on the INSIDE lower portion of the subframe, I decided to clean up that area as well. After removing the OEM crossmember, i left the 2 lower bosses and welded a 1/4" piece of round stock between the two for a cleaner and more simple looking crossmember: Once that was all said 'n done, the FZ had a nicer, clean looking subframe: After I knocked out a good portion of the subframe modification, that allowed me to start preparing for the seat pan/tail section. I sourced a huge sheet of .090" thick 5052 aluminum for the seat/tail section from a local metal supplier/machine shop. Luckily I've known the owners for a good while, so material costs have been pretty minimal so far. The first order of the seat pan/tail was to figure out the proper length and width dimensions. Width-wise the seat pan doesn't exceed the subframe rails which reach 7 1/2" at their widest point just before reaching the rear crossmember, with a very slight taper traveling towards the front of the bike. I kept the seat pan square because the taper is so minimal it wouldn't have been worth the effort in trying to mirror the taper angle on the seat pan. Once I had a 7 1/2"x28" sheet of 5052 cut, I marked 7 1/2" inwards from the rear edge, and made a slight scribe using a grinder and cutting wheel, and made the first bend with my 18" Harbor Freight manual press brake (if you don't scribe the material you're using, even if its really thin stuff, that brake doesn't do much bending). Luckily, the upwards angle of the tail's bottom was pretty spot on with what I had wanted, so that's all it took: With the base of the tail/seat pan up 'n running, next on the list is getting the shape of the tail roughed in. For the most part I just had an idea in my head, and just started cutting and bending material until I got the shapes I was happy with. Surprisingly, the lower side pieces I bent for the tail started out as just a piece of scrap that I originally just wanted to practice bending using the brake. Unbeknownst to me had I had coincidentally bent the scrap piece to go with the tail perfectly. After realizing this, I reverse-engineered the scrap piece, used it as a template, marked where the bends were, and voila had the lower portion of the tail fabbed up by luck! Once I had those members made, I cut and shaped the middle portion of the tail and tacked it in place: After that it was pretty much just cutting and shaping off of the top of my head, making sure left and right pieces mirrored each other and everything was equal when measuring from the center on outwards: After the tail was pretty much assembled and welded, I had a bunch of welds to buff and blend in. And where I wanted a nice contour on the tail I had to add a decent amount of metal so there was enough material to work with without removing much, if any of the base material. Also, when welding 5xxx series of aluminum I use 5356 filler rod (you can use 4043 filler rod as well, I just prefer 5356) and 100% UHP argon for the shielding gas: The process involved using a cutting wheel, various grit levels of flapper discs, and you guess it, a Harbor Freight hand sander to achieve smooth transitions of all the faces on the tail: And here's the Marco Simoncelli CB1100 TR tribute bike where I got a lot of influence for the tail and the idea for the lip on the rear of the tail (probably one of the best looking bikes I've ever laid eyes on): Anyways theres more for another day! Hope you guys enjoy. Feel free if you have any questions! Austin
  19. 5 points
  20. 4 points
    So I picked this up from a buddy, (read confiscated, lol) to build another racebike for a friend who says to me, "can you replicate your bike but with any upgrades or changes you'd make after racing yours for 4 seasons?". Hmm, says I, let me look into this. A few texts and late nite calls to some track friends and vendors and we're off and running. Pulled the motor and head for shipment to Zoran at TWF Racing, Looks like another excellent starting point. Getting the head ported, Web cams, valve job, bored throttle bodies. Ordered all the bits n pieces to have a ball both in the shop building it and on the track enjoying it. $6,000 not counting suspension bits, machine work, shipping and cost of the bike. So, yeah it's not cheap but it'll be an affordable option to the full on MotoAmerica builds at double or more the cost. This bike, like mine, should be able to make the grid in any MotoAmerica Twins Cup event, and podium at any club racing event under the right rider. Got some fun and high tech things in the works from Matt at Robem Engineering and from Brandon at Trackside Labs to bookend the motor Zoran is helping with. Stay tuned for V2. Fun.
  21. 4 points
  22. 4 points
    Hi everyone, first post but I’m really enjoying this forum and all the useful info. Bought the FZ07 2019 in October and did the quick simple stuff like tail tidy and signal indicators. After a lot of research on this forum and watching countless YouTube videos decided to try and do my own exhaust install as I commute on this bike and the stock exhaust is too damn quiet. I need to be heard as well as seen since this is Florida and it’s too insane with the old folks. The initial choice came down to price and originally ordered a Two Brothers typhoon exhaust. Unfortunately, two separate sites allowed me to place the order and I waited and waited but both were unable to fulfill. Turns out there’s no stock and Two Brothers would have had to make one for me and I didn’t want to wait at that point sadly. In the end I ordered the Leo Vince underbody EVO 2 because it was in stock and could get it quickly after the long wait. At the same time, while doing all of this exhaust shopping, and after reading the positive outcomes people have had with 2WDW, I sent my ecu off. Originally I sent it out for a Two Brothers flash and got it back within two days. I was so excited, but then when it turned out I couldn’t get the TB exhaust I didn’t really know what to do. Once I settle on the Leo Vince I sent it back out and 2WDW and got the reflash done and immediately shipped it back. Exhaust finally made it but the install wasn’t super smooth. I learned a lot during the process, and if I can pass along any help please let me know. Pro tip - the large color instructions on the Leo Vince site are not the same as the tiny black and white instructions that came in the box. I think the design from the 2015-16 bike has changed for the 2018-19. Once I actually read the new instructions everything fell into place. I didn’t own a tool before the bike so everything is completely new to me. If YouTube didn’t exist I don’t know how I would be able to learn on my own. Hopefully this story will inspire someone else who doesn’t think they have the skill set to give it shot If I can do it anyone can. End result - the Leo Vince exhaust with the ecu flash from 2WDW has transformed the bike. I really liked the bike but now I’m in love. The sound, dB killer out, is so throaty and deep. The bike performed in the lower rev range in second and third no longer feels like it’s choking and stuttering, no more dead zone in 5th, engine breaking is tamed and throttle response is fluid through all the gears. I should also mention that I installed the R6 throttle tube at the same time as the exhaust. These three things together just make for such a fun ride. Actually look forward to going to work now that I get to ride there and back. Likely done with the bike mods for a bit, so thank you everyone on this forum and thanks to 2WDW for the insanely quick service and turn around on two flashes in two weeks. Bike is loud but it’s South Florida and it feels like everyone is loud down here. No issues so far on that end.
  23. 4 points
    While looking online for a Nitron or Ohlins etc I came across this Bitubo Took a chance and bought it even though there was little information other than length, made a new fork end for it by cutting off the mounting from a standard shock and then drilling, tapping and welding a M20 x 1.0 stud to it. spring was a little light so fitted a new 625lb spring Sag set and compression and rebound adjusters set about middle of adjustment to start with. Length set at 315mm Checked it out on a short run, seems like it might be a success, definitely more controlled than the harsh stock unit. Total cost so far just under £300
  24. 4 points
    Ok @ogri I thank you for reporting your issue with one of our vendors, but now i gotta ask what is it you are trying to now accomplish ? Because it seems to me that you are trying to run their name into the dirt, using our forum to do damage to their reputation. They are a vendor on four of my motorcycle forums. They also tune full race bikes for friends of mine. $40,000 machines, who are all very loyal to @2wheeldynoworks . Go to tracks in the NW and it is 2wdw there flashing race bikes with long lines of happy repeat customers/racers getting their tunes. Of the four forums that I own, 2wdw has flashed literally thousands of our members bikes. Then there are the memebrs of the Facebook groups that I admin, thousands of more ECU customers there. Then add in the many other forums that I do not own, and all of those satisfied customers. While that does not help you with your situation, you are not going to use this forum to trash our friends at 2wdw. I have left this thread up for a few weeks now, even though the way you titled this thread it was clear that you simply wanted to do damage to their reputation. And the way you slammed them in the first post of this thread, it is ridiculous as myself and thousands of others know better. I value you as a member, so feel free to send me a PM if you feel that they are being unreasonable and I can follow up with Nate and Nels personally. I know these guys and have seen them bend over backwards to help customers, going way beyond the normal constraints of customer service. I would be shocked to hear that they were not offering a remedy to this situation for you. At this time, I have decided to lock this thread and let it drift off into the nethers. Please work out your issue with Nels and Nate via phone or email. Send me a pm if you have additional info that you feel that I should know.
  25. 4 points
    "The knee down", is one of "them things" that everyone wants to do but is rarely necessary. It's obviously on most folks short list of things to do which is fine, but. Once accomplished, usually before a person leaves the novice group or soon after, one finds it neither necessary nor advisable at anything but an all out lap assault at an advanced group pace. At first it happens usually by exaggerating ones riding form and clipping corners with a poor line for the sake of getting it done. Then you quickly realize that once the knee taps the pavement it's a simple matter of lifting the knee to preserve pucks, not upset the bike if course adjustments become necessary, and to use it as more of a turn and bank indicator or guage if you will. Most folks find if you're trying to get you knee down you're not focused on whats important. You're holding up traffic and spoiling your line and flow and hurting your lap time. It happens when and where necessary if you are riding correctly. Its not ball size, it's simple physics. Speed and mass determine how far a bike needs to be leaned over to make a turn. A larger rider needs less lean than a smaller rider all else being equal.
  26. 4 points
    Alright Paul stop posting your grainy Area 51 photos and let’s see the real deal
  27. 4 points
    Been pretty quiet lately with work travel and end of year reporting. Race season and testing is coming quickly and we are campaigning the Sv’s and I know this is an FZ forum but thought some of you might appreciate it all the same. Took some time to rework the airbox we used last season and turned the original into a buck to make a mold off of with the help of Draik who came up for a couple weeks to help out. Not really a hard process but just time consuming really. The pic on the bike is the mold and not a finished part.
  28. 3 points
    Build sheet: Woodcraft 1"riser clip ons, bars, spacers, key eliminator, frame sliders, side stand eliminator, brake lever guard, and rear sets Shark Skinz bodywork and mounting kit, generic seat pad, Corsa windscreen Spiegler front and rear braided stainless brake lines (2 lines to master in blue of course) Brembo 19mm RCS radial master w/mounting kit and resivoir Dynojet Power Commander PC5 and push/pull quick shifter pot Antigravity small case 8 cell battery Stomp grip tank pad R & G Racing case covers Super lite 520 steel sprocket, D.I.D. chain conversion (16-45) Speers Racing high pressure radiator cap and 80mm steering damper Gilles Chain adjusters w/spools Yoyodyne slipper clutch, gets new stock friction plates R6 throttle tube AP Motoarts rear sub frame Robem Engineering rear suspension linkage set, custom tripples and rear set plates, Custom K-Tech suspension by Trackside Labs Lightech gas cap Stock hardware and fasteners from Parts Fish Renthal roadrace grips Web Cams, 55 intake, 1662 exhaust Leo Vince LV10 universal slip on, mated to Yoshimura Ti head pipes Race/convenience/paddock mods to motor, airbox, brakes, controls, chassis set up, safety wire, and a lot of magic via various artisans and vendors. I'll update this list as necessary.
  29. 3 points
    My legal disclaimer. Some assembly required. Batteries not included. Enter at own risk. Follow my advice and you'll need them. My first hand tools included an old worn out crescent wrench, ground flat to accept a vice grip on its jaws to hold them in place for any fastener over 9/16". I had no idea there was a difference between a Phillips and a center punch till I was married and bought my own tools. Proper torque meant to turn it till it started to get loose again then stop. Thread locker was rust.
  30. 3 points
    Bring money, we make medicine.
  31. 3 points
    Should have only been $50 retail more. $850 vs $899 retail I think.
  32. 3 points
    I doubt it's a spark plug issue. If the plug was loose enough to cause a loss of power you'd hear it. It would be hissing and spitting like an exhaust leak, but 10x stronger. Nobody ever overlooks the sound a leaking spark plug makes. Incorrect gap wouldn't cause a dramatic loss of power anyway. At most, a too small of a plug gap would hurt slightly hurt fuel mileage, but that's it. Larger plug gap only exist for a more complete burn for emissions reasons, not for power. Super powerful engines have to tighten up plug gaps to keep high compression situations from snuffing out the flame. And if one plug wasn't firing, causing the bike to run on one cylinder, you'd DEFINITELY know it already. It'd be vibrating and idling very rough. Accelerating would be extremely weak and the bike would be all herky jerky. I've owned several bikes with open element air filters like you have now. They don't like strong cross-breezes at all. I've had semi's pass me at speed and the resulting draft would just suck all the power out of the bike. The engine can't draw air in if there's a vacuum at the intake area. I would often have to tuck my legs tight to shield the breathers when a strong crosswind would blow. I've had more than one occasion where I struggled to keep up with traffic on windy days. Not trying to be wordy, just some frame of reference. I would be very surprised if there's an issue with your plugs, or anything else mechanical for that matter. I might would suspect a corrupted ECU flash? Who knows. Good luck, bro. And keep us in the loop on what you find.
  33. 3 points
    I actually havent switched to GP shift yet either but might with this FZ since its already set up that way. Started racing in 06 but never got around to switching. Ive ridden a couple other bikes that are but it was just trackday messing around so not under the pressure of racing. Slipper clutch wise I have had STM slippers in my racebikes previously and always liked the way it lowers the amount of crap to think about when coming into the corner. I still try to be smooth with the clutch release but dont worry about blipping any more and If I get it all wrong it saves my bacon and makes me look better than I really am. It will be while before I get to try it out as it is winter time here in Colorado and I dont technically have the bike yet as I bought it out of Michigan and it hasnt been picked up yet. Just in process of ordering parts so when the bike comes I can jump right in it.
  34. 3 points
    Correct, the results are awesome, seeing that these bikes make around 63-64whp bone stock! The roughly 1.25hp and 2.25tq baffle out gains at the PEAK are significantly less impressive, in our opinion, than the part throttle/midrange increases we see with the baffle in on these pipes. If you ride your bike at the upper end of the RPM range at all times, then yes baffle out would be a better solution, but most riders simply aren't bouncing these bikes off the limiter at all times. The more "useable" power improvements of leaving the baffle in will be of better use to "most" riders. Those original posts and numbers are also now over 4 years old, which is why the links to the original graphs have all expired. Showing accurate part throttle comparisons/improvements on a dyno graph is extremely difficult, which is why we have never tried to illustrate that information in that form. If we ever have time, we'll post those graphs and do our best to describe what you're looking at in each one, but now that the pre-season madness has started, it isn't likely we'll have time to do that in short order. For any specific questions regarding exhaust systems, power numbers, and/or our personal recommendations, please email us at 2wheeldynoworks@gmail.com. We're always happy to help in any way we can!
  35. 3 points
    While the peak numbers may come in just a hair higher with the baffle out, we actually recommend that the Akra Ti and Yoshi R77 both be run with the baffle IN. The midrange/part throttle gains from having the baffle in far outweigh the extremely small gains from running with the baffle out. As we've all found out, these bikes get quite loud with the baffles out of many of the pipes. For whether or not we recommend baffle in vs. out for other specific pipes, feel free to email us at 2wheeldynoworks@gmail.com. We also ALWAYS recommend that the snorkel be removed from the stock airbox, regardless of which exhaust system (even stock) you have on the bike. Our personal preference for sound vs. performance is still the Yoshimura R77, baffle in! 72whp at the peak, smooth delivery and as quiet as you can get without hampering performance. We offer this as a package on our site. Here's the link: FZ-07 / MT-07 / XSR 700 Yoshimura Sport Performance Package – 2 Wheel DynoWorks
  36. 3 points
    Just a quick blog post about some of the new pistons we will be running in the SV's. We also have a custom FZ piston on the way that will we will be testing. The off the shelf Wiseco does a good job but there were a couple things we wanted changed that we were able to do with the help of the Engineer's at JE. Post | Robem Engineering | Lightweight Twins Racing| United States
  37. 3 points
    This was on the top of their website when I went "Our Tax Season Sale is going on NOW! Use the coupon code "tax2020" during checkout for $265 ECU Flashing on most ECUs with FREE return shipping anywhere in the USA!"
  38. 3 points
    there are some researchers looking into new types of batteries, including the inventor of the original LiFe-PO4 battery. hes got some cobalt and glass batteries that will charge more quickly than a super capacitor, and has 100x the energy density of the standard lifep04 batteries on the market currently. He is also an avid motorcyclist. I would imagine if someone weree to approach him for developing the tech for motorcycle applications, we would be in a new age of battery tech
  39. 3 points
    I am happy to do it, eBay would take 10% anyway and I would rather give a forum member a good deal and then pay it forward a little more. That’s what we need to do for each other
  40. 3 points
  41. 3 points
    I thought I would share my build with the forum. I’m almost complete there are only a few more things I would like to add (rear sets, rapid bike). Let me know what you guys think. I appreciate the feedback. Upgrades: -Akrapovic Full Titanium Exhaust -Power Commander V -Ohlins Nix 22 Forks -Ohlins STX46 Shock -Renthal Ultra Low Bars -Speiegler Brake Lines -ZX6R Master Cylinder -Ermax Rear Seat Cowl -Ermax Belly Pan -Ermax Side Scoops -Ermax Rear Tire Hugger -EvoTech Radiator Guard -Meltzer M7 RR Tires -Passenger Peg Delete -Vagabond Rear Reservoir Relocate -CRG Bar Mirrors -Integrated Rear Taillight -ProGrip 717
  42. 3 points
    Make sure your foot isn't applying upward pressure on the shift level after you shift into 2nd gear. I was having the same issue, i had to adjust the shift lever height. The shifter has to return to the bottom detent before it will shift into the next gear.
  43. 3 points
    It will require one to weld the opposite plug into the frame but from there you’d be able to bolt the subframe on like a regular subframe. I’m trying to work out 3D printed guides that snap together as cut guides. The idea for the connections is stolen from some offroad bodies door bars and sections of removable roll cages.
  44. 3 points
    Looks good. They always look awesome when they roll out of the creators shop at the start of season. Then they get beat on like reusing the same nail over and over. Gonna be my pleasure to rub blue paint all over it, lol. And speaking of shops, paging Dr Paulie, wtf?
  45. 3 points
    About dang time! Wait a minute... where's the cassette player? All kidding aside that ride is bangin!
  46. 3 points
    Actually, the lighter weight batteries don't do to well in northern climates...... I'd love to shave some weight, but not at the expense of risking battery failure. If I was racing, maybe? I looked at the reality that I'm a 50 year old guy, that enjoys lighting fuel on fire, and destroying tires- for no other reason than "It's fun" .......
  47. 3 points
    This is how the throttle bodies will sit. It's a good inlet path to the valve heads and gives me a chance to make a decent size airbox with ram air.
  48. 3 points
  49. 3 points
    Set everything at the right height in relation to the sump/ground and then made some slides to help measure the centres and position the swingarm pivot in mid air..
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