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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/20/2019 in all areas

  1. 7 points
    Totaled my bike in an accident and bought a new fz07 last week and let me say I love it, threw an exhaust and fender eliminator on so far
  2. 7 points
    Typical spring time go-through. Brake fluid flush, check steering bearings and new fork oil. Ended up needing new tires, so did this all together. Sidenote, my last pair of tires were a S21 rear + Pilot Power 3 front. I loved those tires, but the PP#3is no more. So I just went with S21's front and rear and ...woah...what a fantastic handing pair of tires. Finally got around to riveting some anchor straps to the Corbin seat. So I can use my Knock Kreiga I made. Had some vinyl left over from another project. Bought some lashing and fittings from the local ski shop. Sewed the main part of the bag together, but decided to bolt all the straps and hardware on with Chicago screws. If a clip fails, or a strap frays, it will be easy to unscrew and replace- especially away form home. Got about $16 in this bag. Shown here holding two 1 gallon milk jugs. While it isn't invisible when not in use, it tucks away pretty nicely. It's vinyl, so it won't leak. I'll turn it inside out and coat the seams to make it fully waterproof. Need more black screws for the straps and may also powdercoat the hooks black to help them hide. It ain't no Kreiga, but it'll do!
  3. 6 points
    The only way to become a millionaire racer is to start as a billionaire.
  4. 6 points
  5. 5 points
  6. 5 points
    I had some time yesterday to dyno the bike stock, with the snorkel removed and with the snorkel removed and a sprint filter. I was going to test the hord intake but after starting to install it I decided it would be an ass pain to go back to stock airbox and abandoned the testing till I add an exhaust. I have not seen testing like this posted and I though some of you would find it useful, this is with no tuning done at all. I think the bump in midrange is worth the slight loss on top by pulling the intake snorkel. Interesting that the exact opposite happened as I would have thought. Bump in the middle with a drop off on top. This is why real testing is need not assumption or seat of the pants. Red = all stock Blue = intake snorkel removed green = intake snorkel removed with sprint filter
  7. 5 points
    Closing out this thread, See you at the race track...
  8. 5 points
    I was ready for a new project and after riding a friends 7 up in the mountains I really fell in love with the easy handling, nice torque curve, twin sound and unique character. Just got it yesterday and only have a couple rides in but all the things I noticed on my friends bike I still really like, very happy with my decision!
  9. 4 points
    Bikes are all about performance to me. Not outright power or speed, but the thrill I can get from them. I just finished building this bike a couple days ago and you can see how my carburetor tuning maiden voyage turned out. I gear up and have absolutely no issues laying a bike down In interest of staying on topic. The essentials for this ride were plenty of fuel, helmet/boots and my trusty little flat blade carb tuning screwdriver.
  10. 4 points
    So far, so good. Friday was a glorious day. Sunny and warm(ish). I had some fun on it in morning practice before we got the bike dialed in in the afternoon for Tony to run at Road America. Makes a crap ton of power, suspension spot on, new Dunlop spec tires are awesome after getting pressure and temperature dialed in. There was an unnamed pro from the MotoAmerica Twins Cup points chase here testing to run against in practice. Not bad, very happy with our situation. Saturday is 40 degrees, rainy and 30 mph winds, grrate... Tony put the bike on the podium in the trophy dash, said he's never been so happy on a bike, good news. But he nearly shagged a brand new rear rain tire as the track dried between rain cells during the race. I worked as a corner captain for the day since they were short of volunteer track workers due to weather, go figure. During lunch break I found out that out that our competitors had got my bike ready for Tony (busy racing his own bikes) to race in the trophy dash for me since I was busy working a corner. SOLID!! Overall a perfect day. Tomorrow who knows, forecast is for armagedon, we'll see. I'm scheduled to run the Formula 40 (old guy) race on it as set up for Tony. Should be a fun challenge. We'll see if I can get a 'trophy', lol. All in all a great outing. Got it dialed in spot on for Tony. Looking forward to Road America in 2 weeks! Get off the couch and stop daydreaming your life away! Blue Line Racing.
  11. 4 points
    The end of an era... I've decided to race my FZ-07!!! I've done well with the R3, but I'm too old to race it in the Junior Cup class at MotoAmerica, so I'm selling it and moving up to my FZ-07, in the hopes of racing it at the Pro level in the Twins class at MotoAmerica (assuming I can get a licence ) - Paul
  12. 4 points
    I need to vent about other motorist (including the occaisional stupid squid once in a while). They suck. They suck for not looking when they do lane changes. They suck for being on the phone. They suck cause they shouldnt be given licenses. Today, on my way to work, 2 motorisist one in a SUV and the other in a caravan both did lane changes right in front of me without looking to pass the "slower" car doing the speed limit and go around them. Now i was in a car, imagine if on my bike. Im sorry but riding a motorcycle and even a car these days is getting more and more frustrating. I dont know what to do. They suck!
  13. 4 points
    I don't know how "bad" it is, but every bike I've ever owned (more than a dozen), has pulled to the right when I let go of the bars..... All roads are made with a slight "crown" in them, to allow water to drain off of them. I owned a Goldwing once that I swore had a twist in the frame. Turns out that it just felt like it, because I was looking at through the straight line at the top of the windscreen all the time, and the bike was always leaning to compensate for the crown in the road, the windscreen made it look "crooked" compared to the road. You may want to try this- Get in the left lane of a 2 (or more) expressway, and let go of the bars. the bike will probably stay "neutral", or may pull slightly left. FYI: If you look closely at a worn out front tire on heavy bike (Goldwing, or cruiser) just slightly left of the center of the tire will be slightly more worn. That's because your front tire has been compensating for the slight crown in the road for several years. Hope that helps -
  14. 4 points
    Couldn't take the seat any longer. It was killing me on rides that lasted more than an hour. When I started my search for a new seat Corbin hadn't started making one for the 2018 MT-07 but finally, they did it. My 11 year old daughter loves to go out on sunset rides with me.....so the optional backrest was a must. In the end it was all a bit on the pricey side. But rest assured.....if you hate the stock seat this is way more comfortable. I also love the way it is shaped from a riding perspective. It holds you in place really well when you get on the throttle.
  15. 4 points
    Hey, I live in Florida and we do have curved roads there are at least 3 that I know of. As well as numerous circular driveways and Cul de sacs
  16. 4 points
    Here’s my setup: Yamalube koozie holding it all together (CRUCIAL), 4 Co2 16's and 1 in the canister,knife,needle nose,reemer,rope plugs are underneath, gun-lock for my helmet, pig-tail for battery float charger. Thats the way I found to get what I needed in there.
  17. 4 points
    First off.... Congrats on your new purchase!!! Now the real talk, it's a dirt bike which means it's a completely different animal from all of your other bikes. More simply put, it's not meant to feel or ride like all of your past street bikes. The WR250 in particular leans way more to the dirt than a Kawasaki KLR650, Suzuki DR650, Honda XL650, or those beastly BMW dual sports. It is a lot more like the street legal KTM's as far as dual sports go. Now the great news.... if you keep this bike and learn how to ride it in the dirt, you will be a MUCH better street rider on any street bike which obviously includes your FZ-07. Think of it as cross training. Inherent in dirt riding is that you will often be riding on or past the edge as in you will need to learn how to handle your WR250 in situations where either or both of the wheels are sliding, making split second moves to keep you from hitting something on the trail, as well as a TON of other bike handling maneuvers that you will rarely get an opportunity to do on your FZ. You will learn how to jump your WR, as well as riding standing on the footpegs on a regular basis. How does this help you on a street bike... first, you will know how to handle your FZ in unplanned/dangerous situations. More importantly you won't freak out in those situations. For example, a car stop suddenly in front of me, and my FZ did some rear wheel sliding (no ABS on my FZ). That is a situation where a street rider could crap there pants, screw up and wreck as they never encountered that before. It was no big deal to me, and my first thought after was... so that's what my FZ feels like when it's sideways - COOL! My $0.02 would be to go to your local bike shop and ask around about places to ride. I'll bet there are more places than you think. Once you find some dirt bike riding buddies, your fun factor will go up big time! Depending on your vehicle, I would consider getting a bike carrier that fits into your bumper hitch with the bike being positioned at a 90 degree angle. Those carriers are cheap, and will easily handle the weight of the WR. Plus with a bumper carrier, you have no excuses not to go riding. While taking a class wouldn't be a bad idea, just get out and take it easy as your learn. Plus, there is a lot to be said for riding with someone else in case you get into a wreck, or at least make sure you carry a cell phone when you are dirt riding. Lastly, the Yamaha WR250 is a great choice to seriously learn how to dirt ride. It's light, has plenty of power, and handles well, and then there is that Yamaha reliability! Speaking of power, while it might seem to be not that fast on the street, trust me, there is plenty of power to scare the crap out of you on the dirt! FWIW and IMHO, your WR250 needs no upgrades other than maybe a fresh set of dual sport tires such as Pirelli MT21 or Dunlop 606. You want to go with 90% dirt/10% street tires with that bike for sure. Don't sell it, don't try to convert it to a street bike, and more importantly just get out and ride the piss out of it!!! Enjoy and be safe!
  18. 4 points
    All that time and attention given to painting that bike and they didn't take that damn warning sticker off the tank...
  19. 4 points
    People, even dealerships, forget to stake the nut for the front sproket after r&r-ing it. After a bit it spins off. ...or so I've heard...
  20. 4 points
    Ok, 24 hours until we choose the winner of the $60 revzilla gift card!
  21. 4 points
  22. 3 points
    Recheck your work. If you had the throttle, tube, grip, cables apart it's very easy to get something just a bit off during reassembly. You can end up with a bind or rub somewhere. Check that the cables are in their respective tracks on the tube collar. Make sure the tube assembly nub is aligned with the hole in the handlebar if you're still using it. Make sure the inside of the grip isn't to far onto the bar that it's rubbing on the end of the bar. Also the inside face of the grip can rub the switch gear assembly if pushed on too far (some have Teflon discs in there to reduce friction) And lastly be careful with the amount of lube used in the cable sleeve. Less is more here. Otherwise you can make mud and create a friction sink. Good luck!
  23. 3 points
    I thought you were on to something when I looked at what you were saying, but it did not perform better anywhere then just pulling the snorkel. These were literally done 5 minutes apart with that being the only change so its real data
  24. 3 points
    Here's an interesting set of graphs from today's skunk works session. These compare similar Suzuki SV builds to my Yamaha. Due to club racing superbike rules package these are all on stock bore even tho the SV's are allowed a 2mm overbore if they were racing in MotoAmerica. The Yamaha's aren't allowed an overbore in either to keep things closer. The yellow trace is my builders personal 2nd Gen SV race bike. It has bored throttle bodies, ported head, shaved gaskets, lightened flywheel, cams, stock bore, running 91 pump gas. This was previously the stud on the superbike grid. The blue trace is my race partners 1st Gen SV. It has massive flat slide carbs, ported head, cams, shaved gaskets and running E85 for fuel (don't get me started). He needs to re-jet a little to get fueling correct between 9,000 and 10,000rpm. The green trace is my previously posted final tuned run. Several ways to get to the same point on a graph. Yamaha has a distinct edge in mid-range and no longer falls over at high rpm with the intake work vs stock. And I'm pretty sure there's some cheater parts in those old SV's like Hayabusa or JE pistons, the classic "I don't know what's in there" or "it must been like that when I got it", lol, whatever. Either way there's 2 butt hurt Suzuki guys now.
  25. 3 points
    Here she is, my first brand new bike! I've had several bikes, but this is the first that I get to modify from a blank slate. I'm going to try to keep a little build log going - to be honest, I tried to do the same with my Camaro 1LE but eventually just lost track of documenting everything. I got ahead of myself, and installed the Womet-Tech frame sliders before I took any "before" pictures, but this is the starting point. Straight off the showroom floor... And 80 miles later! She's been home 3 whole days and we're already taking everything apart! I've got a bunch of boxes on a UPS truck as I type this! Next episode: TST led signals and flasher relay, Womet-Tech sliders, yoshimura fender eliminator, and a lovely windscreen that I just picked up from a fellow member here!
  26. 3 points
    "Ride like everyone else is trying to kill you" - MSF Course Instructor "There's one more idiot than you think there is on the road" - my Dad. (I finally figured out that the last idiot was me...)
  27. 3 points
    I installed the rear sets, flipped the shift pattern, and set up the woolich racetools so now I have a quick shifter and launch control. The preloaded quick shifter settings were pretty rough so will take some time to smooth them out
  28. 3 points
    I decided I didn't love the gray on my Armor Grey FZ, so I decided to switch it up to matte black using some wrap I ordered off of amazon. A lot trickier than I thought it would be to wrap it but here's the outcome. Let me know what you guys think!
  29. 3 points
    here is about a large as the site will allow
  30. 3 points
    Used it to finish dismounting a tire, but that's it so far.
  31. 3 points
    Most everybody believes themselves to be an above average motorist. Any time spent on the streets will confirm that people are not very good at self evaluation.
  32. 3 points
    As a general rule, I scold myself if I think no idiots were near me on a ride. That means I just wasn't paying enough attention, and I should do better. "Thankfully" I usually count plenty of them on a given ride.
  33. 3 points
    Hi Chop311, As i28 said, I have experience with all three methods of tuning you mentioned, and all of them have their pros and cons. I am currently running RapidBike on my racebike, a PowerCommander PC5 on my FZ-07 (soon to be switched to a Rapidbike RACE), and a custom mail-in reflash from Stoltec Moto using FT-ECU software on my XSR900 in combination with a Rapidbike EVO. I'd like to address your questions...than add my 2 cents on the different methods of tuning. We sell may different methods of tuning for various bikes, except reflashes, as we aren't equipped to do it properly with a dyno, etc. In the case a customer wants a reflash for an FZ-07, I always refer them to Nels at 2WDW, and may be calling them soon for my own personal FZ-07 to work in combination with RapidBike RACE for additional functionality. Which brings me to your questions... 1) Does climate and elevation greatly effect tuning? They *can*. The stock ECU in most bikes can only do so much, and although I do believe they can account for these changes to an extent, their would be no need for auto tuners of any kind if the stock computer was that robust. Some companies that do both (flash the stock ECU and make an auto tuner) recommend their own auto tuner to fine tune fuel trims "for your conditions", and some companies that do reflashes only also recommend an aftermarket auto tuner for the same reason. Cruizin summed it up perfectly, "Nels leaves room for engine safety in his tunes to account for changes in air temp, elevation and such parameters. Also, if you add the auto tuner to his tune, it will always be dialed in right no matter where you are." 2) Does a rapidbike auto tuner adjust the same things a remap/flash would? The answer to that is yes and no, and *it depends*. RapidBike EVO has the ability to adjust fuel in real time as you ride, and also will adjust the closed loop section of the ECU fueling which most tuners don't, or can't, touch at all. Rapidbike RACE has the added ability to adjust timing. Both RapidBike EVO and RapidBike RACE can raise the rev limiter by 1000rpm on certain models of bikes. With Rapidbike add-on modules, there is even more functionality. BlueBike lets you tinker with your settings if you so choose, wirelessly via Bluetooth. There is even an app called RaceTime you can use on your phone via Bluetooth to monitor certain functions. A plug and play quickshifter is available that works flawlessly, and finally, YouTune is a wired dash mounted remote that adds adjustable traction control, adjustable pit lane limiting (cruise control), adjustable engine braking functionality, adjustable launch control, adjustable AFR target capability, adjustable quickshifter functionality, and LED monitoring for several of those functions, plus RPM, real time AFR's etc. Now, that might sound like a big plug for Rapidbike, but I'm just answering your specific questions. My two cents? There are pro's and cons for each method of tuning available (which is why I personally use multiple methods) and those pro's and cons change depending on a customers individual needs. - Paul
  34. 3 points
    For those of you who live in the Mid-Atlantic area, I found a great deal on 2018 Yamaha MT-07's in Tyrone PA at Unlimited Cycle Center. In case you are wondering, it's near the center of Pennsylvania. They have four (4) listed for $5999, and the only other add-on is a $99 processing fee. Yep, you heard it right, no freight or set-up. Of course you will need to pay tax on it in your state. I've been in their store before, and grew up in that general area which means I know they are legit. They also have great deals on the MT-09 as well. https://uncycle.com/Motorcycles-Yamaha-MT-07-2018-Tyrone-PA-32ed1028-e4b9-4d22-ac9f-aa140106b753
  35. 3 points
    37 partial sets of drill bits because the 1/4" bit is missing from every fricken set...
  36. 3 points
    I worked at a dealership for a time in the service department. It was frustrating as they had one factory certified mechanic and 5 bolt breakers (me) doing the work. They billed my work at full shop rate yet only paid minimum wage, no bennies. They had me doing all sorts of things I was neither trained nor qualified to do yet they billed my time at $95/hour. I had access to all factory service material online but thats no replacement for proper training. I learned a lot at the customers expense. The mechanic was poorly paid too but at least he got bennefits. No wonder the dealers have poor customer feedback.
  37. 3 points
    Going to mount it to a pallet so I can move it around the factory where I work. ( I own the place. ) Will be mounting S22's first, then a set of wets.
  38. 3 points
    I'm certainly the last person to dissuade testing and tinkering but if you search Hord, Hord Power, JD Hord, intake, performance upgrades or anything similar you'll find that there is actually a metric crap tonne of information on here including dyno charts. Go to Hords web site and all the dyno charts are there as well as on here. Having said this a person could easily use this info as a guide to save time and effort and go in unexplored directions to develop new data.
  39. 3 points
    I actually just got it into a different shop a couple hours ago and they fixed it within a few minutes. He said the clutch fibers are wearing out and i'll need a new clutch in the near future but he said it should last until the end of summer. He said the reason I wasn't getting any wheel power is because I didn't have enough slack in the clutch, it seemed good to me at the time but he made a few adjustments and worked good as new. I couldn't be happier!
  40. 3 points
    If you haven't heard yet, JD Beach won his first AFT Premier Twins win on the mighty Yamaha MT-07 at Wild Horse Pass Motorsports Park in Chandler, Ariz. It was the first premier class AFT win for a Yamaha twin since Scott Pearson won the Peoria TT in 1981. https://actionsportsconnection.com/beach-comes-from-behind-for-first-career-premier-class-victory/
  41. 3 points
    The hardest part about riding in the dirt after being a road bike rider is learning to feel comfortable with the wheels sliding around, especially the front wheel. On the road we know that once your front gets loose you're pretty much dead, however, on the dirt this isn't the case at all. Both wheels will slide, and it's only practice and experience that is going to get you used to this. I went from riding road to riding dirt, and I reckon it's much harder doing it that way rather than going from dirt to learning road. But persistence will pay off, and then you'll realise that riding dirt is actually more fun and you can act like a total hooligan without putting your life in as much danger or losing your license.
  42. 3 points
    I found the opposite to be true as far as interaction goes. What is lost in the lack of shifting is made up in other areas. The quiet, powerful nature of electric allows you "feel" the bike, road, surroundings, and the G forces in a way that is much different from an ICE vehicle. On a ICE bike that wonderful exhaust sound that we all love literally overpowers our other senses. The absence of that mind bending sound makes it easier to focus on the exhilarating feelings of motion. Instead of the sensory overload you get on a normal bike, electric feels more like riding in a Zen state. Sort of like the difference between a rock concert and the symphony. Both can move your emotions, but in different ways. Couple that with the superior power delivery of electric, and there's fun to be had. Having both types of bikes would be ideal... expensive but ideal. Electric is definitely suited for commutes due to the range. Hopefully fast charging becomes more readily avail for bikes, as it already is for cars. I bought an electric car in 2014, and fast charging was avail back then. I could charge from near empty to 80% in 20 mins. Several other manufactures like Audi are working on fast charger systems 3x faster, so the tech is here to fast charge a smaller bike battery pack in 10 mins or less. Swapping packs would be great too, but not feasible with the larger packs that give you 100+ mile range. Those packs are big, heavy, and would be difficult to make modular.
  43. 3 points
    Relax bro,,, it's juts a two fiddy dual sport. Ride it a while and if you end up not liking the off road thing just sell it. They get good money for those used so as long as you don't wreck it you can get most, if not all of your money back. Leave the motor and exhaust stock. The small HP increase will not be worth the cost. It will be barely noticeable other than making a bunch more noise. Ride it and enjoy it for what it is. A street legal trail bike.
  44. 3 points
    First, relax. Second, yes, it is a dual purpose bike, but you will need to ride it a bit different than a street only machine. The suspension is going to act somewhat different than that of your FZ-07. There is a lot more travel for one, which is intended more for off-road than on-road, which makes it sit taller, which gives it more ground clearance, which makes it handle different. Since you have never ridden a dirt bike, search out some off road trail riding videos. I started out on dirt bikes and moved to street bikes. Riding them is takes two different techniques, but there are similarities, such as pressing on the bars to turn at higher speeds. One difference is that, at least on dirt, you use a counter weight technique more that hanging off in the direction of the turn, since this helps the tires dig in to the dirt for traction. While I cannot explain it all here, I can suggest taking a dirt bike riding course if one is available and you have the funds. This will at least give you a better understanding and feel for riding a dirt bike. Most of all, have fun and relax. You will learn it either way.
  45. 3 points
    Build that emm effer; 1. Pick some and shut up, there's lots of cool led styles available 2. There are no affordable aftermarket stand alones, go with a factory replacement 3. Just replace the broken one and move on, you have to pull them off on track anyway. Or if that bugs you there aee some pretty cool bar end styles too, but either way you have to take them off for track duty 4. Fix what you have if you can, otherwise I'll send you my old one free , you pay shipping (never used), who cares what it looks like and the bike should never be on it anyway. 5. You can't use Woodcraft, my first choice, because you boogered your controls and they reuse some stock parts, SO get these Sato's. Expensive, kind of, but works of art. The best I've ever used, pick your color. As far as handlebars, keep what you have if you like them, or change em up if you dont. You can go fast as heck with stock bars and they are much better on the street than clip ons 2015 Yamaha FZ07 Parts Orient Express Racing - High Performance Motorcycle Parts WWW.ORIENTEXPRESS.COM We make your motorcycle go fast! Orient Express high performance motorcycle parts since 1973! for Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha, Aprilia, BMW, Ducati and Harley Davidson motorcycles and ATV's, 6. Make a simple bracket or zip tie the resivoir to the frame rail and quit fooling around. There are aftermarket ones but get out your checkbook. 7/8/9. Replace your stock axle parts and keep the stock wheels. Unless you are going 'all in' racing switching to an R6 wheel is expensive and some race organizations require stock wheels for some classes, it's an expense you don't need. Besides r6 fronts require an entire front end swap $$. I've weighed them back to back and there is only a few pounds/set difference between r6 and fz wheels. 10. Pick your poison but get decent ones that won't drag your pads, some cheap ones cause the front brake to drag, not good. 11. Modest upgrade that does a very nice job. Either Race Tech or Traxxion Dynamics are good choices. And do a rear shock upgrade while your fooling around down there, you'll be glad you did AR-25 Axxion Rod Damper Kit, K41-1 - Traxxion Dynamics TRAXXION.COM FMGV S2040 Race Tech 20mm Gold Valve Kit for OEM Forks STORE.HARDRACING.COM Race Tech 20mm Gold Valve Kit for OEM Forks ONLY FMGV S2040 Please Specify what Bike you have Please note, these ONLY FIT OEM FORKS Drop in Damper Rod Kit. Combines damper rod and cartridge technology for superior bump absorption, traction, and control. GPR V4 Stabilizer Yamaha FZ-07 2015-2017 | 10% ($57.49) Off! WWW.REVZILLA.COM GPR’s V4 installs easily and greatly reduces your risk of a speed wobble or head shake, thereby increasing rider safety and confidence. 12. Hack away and make something nice You asked for it,
  46. 3 points
    I went from XSR900 to R3 to MT07. The MT07 is my favourite BY FAR. It's light, comfy, flickable, and packs one hell of a punch down low. 90% of my riding is to work and for this, the punchy little twin with it's outrageous exhaust note brings more smiles than any other bike I've owned (30+ bikes). The 900 triple beats it in suspension and outright power, but unless you spend most of your time on very high speed roads (or risking your license) then the 07 makes more sense. One last thing, GET AN EXHAUST! The sound of this bike is the best thing about it.
  47. 3 points
    The simple answer would be McMaster-Carr for online shopping. They're not always the cheapest, but they're usually reasonable. They offer a ton of selection, though. I just checked and they are getting $6.58/ea for 1/2" rod ends. Any good sized local hardware store should stock the smaller sizes, though. Link the MM-C's rod end page: McMaster-Carr WWW.MCMASTER.COM Choose from our selection of rod ends, including ball joint rod ends, internally threaded ball joint rod ends, and more. In stock and ready to ship. Couple things to note, though. I don't know exactly why that linkage builder is using 1/2" rod ends. It's possible he needs that size in order for the coupling nuts to belong enough? Or maybe he needs the 1/2" opening so he can fit his reducing bushings in there. I'm not positive, but I'm pretty sure that's a 10mm bolt used there. Nothing wrong with a 1/2" rod end, but you're not locked in to that size. At any rate, notice how some of the fasteners in the ad for that linkage have little tick marks on them. These "knicks" denote that as lefthand thread. Since he's using a combination of lefthand and righthand thread you can adjust your ride height with the links installed, because it creates a tun buckle. You could build the same linkage with all RH thread, just knowing you'd have to pull the rods off the bike to make linkage length changes. You can rack up some money installing seals on to rod ends, but honestly it's not critical for the typical street bike. You can scroll down on McMaster-Carr's rod end page and find seals. Or you can pay extra initially for sealed rod ends. These linkages rotate very,very little and I doubt the lack of a bearing, or even a spherical rod end is really adding much performance to the suspension, if any. You could also use solid rod ends and just grease the bolt up. Speedway Motors, Summit Racing and Jegs all should stock a good selection of spherical and solid rod ends. Which to use will be your choice. Lot's of bikes work like this without issue. Actually, needle bearings typically don't do well in environments like this where they can't rotate fully. Bushings are much better for these jobs, but motorcycle riders love to read about "low friction needles" on their spec sheets, and bushes take more labor to properly install at the factory. Needle bearings make assembly lines easy. You can sometimes avoid using an additional coupling nut/shaft between a pair of rod ends if your length allow you just attach a male and female rod end together. Sorry for getting longwinded. Been doing too much of that around here lately. Don't mean to insult your intelligence if you already knew all this. When I was making lots of linkages we had a speed shop and were buying from Summit Racing's wholesale division(Atech) and parts were dirt cheap. I haven't shopped for rod ends for a long time, so you may find better deals if you look around but this should cover your bases.
  48. 3 points
    This video just in on Chain lube. Edit: They didn't include Dupont Chain saver in their test, which might've won the test.
  49. 3 points
    Just a little project I decided to do. Originally had the JW Speaker Adaptive light in a bucket with Motodemic brackets but decided I liked the look of the stock headlight better. Then it was hard for me to go back to stock headlight performance after experiencing the adaptive light so I just put 2 and 2 together lol. Finishing up a few small details now but I'll post up completed pics when it's all done.
  50. 3 points
    Sensor screw 7Nm ABS rotor screws 8Nm
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