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Showing content with the highest reputation since 12/25/2020 in all areas

  1. 6 points
    The XSR700 has less room under the seat than the FZ07. The Hordpower airbox opened up some space so I welded up an aluminum box to house the Power Commander and Autotune. So much of these projects need to be anodized black at some point. I use 5xxx filler rod as it anodizes better than 4xxx filler rod. (Sorry, forget the exact number and too lazy to check. I can check if needed.) 5086 is my favorite sheet aluminum to weld as it does not need filler rod to weld if the joint is tight with no gaps and does not require extra joint strength. All other aluminum can hot crack after welded if not enough filler is used, especially 6061. Why people weld 6061 sheet is beyond me. 5086 is also more corrosion resistant than 6061. 5086 is weaker, but some what moot since 6061 will lose its strength once welded, unless heat treated.
  2. 5 points
    So, it seems like it's been forever since I've posted an update... Finally finished the mock up of the revised fairing, to get the height and angle where I wanted. We've made it to where it'll accept any windscreen for the 2015-2018 Yamaha R3. I've been using the Double Bubble version from Zero Gravity it's the tallest race fairing they make, and I can always use the Corsa or other variants if I wanted a slightly different angle or height. This was Ver.2 mocked up on the bike: Since then, I'm now on Ver. 2.623897645 haha. I've changed the angle to make it slightly more swept back, and brought out the nose more on the leading edge for better aero. This is the final version: I had my guys at Underground Graphics in Houston, Texas overnight me my livery and new numbers (changed from 138 to 158), so I can get this thing finished up to race next weekend. I have a new appreciation for the guys who do wrap jobs. My friend and I tackled it last night since overnighting the fairing to Houston was going to cost over $700. Took us over 6 hours, and I still have to put the final touches on it. Pics soon - Paul
  3. 5 points
    I modified the stock bellcrank to accept standard spherical rodends. This way an adjustable link is real easy. Used 1/8" thick stainless steel 17-4PH plate. Much stronger than standard 304 stainless. With the longer swingarm I have no idea what length link will be needed. But I'm hoping to package a double adjustable link. One that can adjust ride height without removing one end.
  4. 4 points
    Gotcha. Here in America we have some parts stores that will loan out special tools if you purchase parts from them (just buy some fuel line or something). Compression testers, torque wrenches, valve spring compressors, etc. One of my first jobs was at a lawnmower repair shop over 50 years ago, and it was a very simple introduction to the concepts of fuel, spark, and compression. Those lawnmower engines were so simple, no overhead cam. Some people don't enjoy getting their hands dirty and working on things, but it is like a Zen experience for me - and puts me in more control of what I am riding on. Or what I am cutting the grass with...
  5. 4 points
    Hi, thanks for asking, been a busy year with work and household commitments so things have taken awhile but the engine is now finished and I swapped it over into my bike last weekend, engine changes are little awkward on our bikes with the suspension being mounted on the back of the motor so you can’t just have it on a paddock stand, I made a stand to mount on the rear foot rest mounts, it worked well and was really stable. Ive started the engine and ran it for about 20 minutes, it sounds fine and no leaks so far, I kept the revs above 2000 rpm to give the new cam lobes some decent oil pressure. I need to get a dry day to give it a proper run on the road and check all is ok but nothing but rain and a little snow here at the moment. If all goes well I hope to get it on the dyno as soon as I can but there’s not much chance of that with everything locked down due to the COVID situation over here at the moment. Have posted a few pictures for interest.
  6. 4 points
    I just started riding 53 years ago and totally agree with this advice. I also agree with taking the MSF course. If you do it right motorcycling can be a lifetime experience, if you do it wrong it can turn you off to riding or worse.
  7. 4 points
    Thanks! Just like the look of the XSR for a naked street bike. Wanted something retro looking. Yes, the frame/motor/suspension are all the same. I have a Masters in Manufacturing Engineering, but I own a small business that really does not use that degree. Welding looks easy but is actually quite tricky as you know, especially aluminum. I'm just a hobby welder, but slowly getting better with these projects.
  8. 4 points
    finally got it all put back together and finished all the paint work. Got most of the new decals on. I'm still waiting on some more green vinyl in one inch stripe to finish the front fairing.
  9. 3 points
    Glad you have clarity on what the problem was - diagnosis can be so frustrating. A good time to buy a compression tester would have been after my December 19 comment about how to use one. At this point if you bought one you may never use it unless you work on older engines a lot. I bought my compression tester over 40 years ago and it was helpful when all I could afford were old worn out cars and motorcycles. Your issue is very uncommon for a modern engine. I would wait to buy a compression tester until you have a need for it again. Put that money into your repair.
  10. 3 points
    Here is how I decided to mount the pod-300. I welded a plate to the stock XSR700 cosmetic piece that mounts in front of the ignition. The pod-300 is a data logger. It displays up to 4 parameters in real time. And has 3 indicator lights that I will be using as a shift light.
  11. 3 points
    Having road-raced since the '70s, and put just a few street miles on since, I'd just chip in the following fun facts - if you're trail-braking with any regularity on the street, especially on less well-known roads, you're just setting yourself up for some road-rash (if you're lucky). Street riding, even at a quick pace, should always be done with mostly straight-line braking, completed prior to the corner (fading off as you tip in). Maximum lean and anything but neutral throttle should not be considered until you can actually see around the remainder of the corner. Rage all you want on the way out, but being "hot" in the corner, prior to apex, on the street, can kill you quick. This Is Why You Crash Your Motorcycle—According to Science When science meets crashing: The results of an MSF study about how and why people crash motorcycles. Where do you think you fit in? "Curves are dangerous. 55% of the recorded single-vehicle mishaps happened in curves, mostly in right-hand turns and are usually the result of weak cornering skill and/or a too fast entry speed. We can also include poor visual skills as a common contributor to cornering mishaps."
  12. 3 points
  13. 3 points
    Just for smits & squiggles here's a speed in gear chart showing 16/44 gearing with a 180/60 rear;
  14. 3 points
    I feel what you mean, I got knocked out of my old story by illness at 55. There's a way thru less traveled. I know and see others at hospital who take that expected pain and let thought turn it into suffering - "I can't go here, I won't be at parties, I can't go on vacation, I'm dying, etc" and they can't get passed it. The pain is inevitable, but only you can turn it into suffering. Do what needs done, just be like a screen door, let this blow right thru you with no resistance.
  15. 3 points
    The rest of my results... Even though I didn't get to compete in all the events I had hoped to, I did manage to get some good finishes. Overall class championship finishes with Central Roadracing Association Formula 40 F1 1st Lightweight SuperBike 2nd Lightweight Grand Prix 2nd Super Twins 3rd Overall CRA points 20th. Great results considering I did not run the final event with the CRA. I also attended the CCS round at Blackhawk Farms which was our 'away' event for the CRA, was also a CCS event that payed CRA points. Considering it was my first time at Blackhawk Farms, I was very happy with these results. 3rd in Formula 40 Lightweight 1st in Thunderbike 5th in Lightweight SuperBike 7th in Lightweight GrandPrix.
  16. 3 points
    When did the term trail braking come in to vogue? Why is everyone so crazy about talking about it. You're jerky as a new rider, but as you get comfortable you become smooth and you feel what the bike likes. Extremely few bikes extend the rear shock under throttle. I don't agree with feeding throttle while trying to drag the front brake. All you're doing is crowding the bike and bunching the suspension up. The very basic theories of putting weight on the front tire by using the front brake, and putting weight in to the rear tire by applying throttle can be observed in a straight line easily. It's intuitive simply due to weight transfer. You cannot transfer the weight of the motorcycle both forward and rearward at the same time. You just can't. Instead of trying to (magically?) transfer weight on to both ends of the bike simultaneously through front brake +throttle, you're far better off using the gyroscopic forces at your disposal. If you apply enough front brake to load the front suspension your rear end will be light. Don't force feed power to the rear wheel in this scenario. You're asking to lose the rear. Everyone knows this that has ever accidentally taken a corner too hot or yanked the throttle too hard mid turn ( especially mid turn under braking)...yet he's teaching to load the rear tire with throttle while loading the forks through braking? I can't agree with that. Throttle is for acceleration. Brakes are for deceleration. The bike as a whole can't do both at the same time. Never pull the clutch in during a corner. Keep the engine rpms at a constant speed and the gyroscopic forces will not change. This will make a bike feel stable while cornering. If you're coming in to a corner hard you can kick down a gear for extra revs/ gyroscopic forces to change how lean in feels. Gyroscopic forces want to keep the bike upright. More forces makes you have to tip in harder ( more bar pressure while counter steering) which gives the tire a very planted feel. You're leveraging the weight of the bike against the gyroscopic forces, and this creates a hinge effect. The gyroscopic forces from the engine are central to the bike, the bars are on the top, the tires are on the bottom. The harder you can push on the bars the harder that leverage can work through that hinge to plant the tires. This is why engine braking is useful to a point, but can be overwhelming in some chassis's. This is why slipper clutches were invented, but also why they kinda suck. Weight and gyroscopic forces are WAY more stable, reliable forces than your right hand solely attempting to brake and throttle at the same time. Braking wants to pull your hand forward while you need to roll your hand backwards to apply more throttle. Add countersteering pressure, moving body position ( wrist angle) and the fact that your body may be moving up and down from hitting bumps while this is happening....that's an enormous amount of dexterity to ask of a heavily gloved hand wrapped around a floating, squishy grip. No, "trail braking" while adding throttle is not how you safely corner a bike. Go find a long corner. At least 180°. Ride that corner over and over and over at a very relaxed, effortless pace. Do it until you can robotically glide through that corner with your brain completely not having to concentrate on anything. Now, pull the clutch in mid corner and see how gross it feels and watch how the bike reacts. Now, do that same corner again and lightly apply rear brake. Feel how the bike will turn tighter and the chassis won't upset. Now, do that same corner and apply only front brake. Feel how the front was to dip and the bike suddenly feels wallowy, due to the steering engine changing mid turn. The fact that he quipped at the beginning of the video " who here has used the rear brake in a corner and has lived to tell about it".....ugh.... internet, stop making stuff up! The rear brake is a very effective tool for tightening your line! It's much safer than using the front brake and upsetting the balance of the chassis! But the key is none of these inputs can be done abruptly. The key to smooth cornering is smoothness. The key to smoothness is doing nothing. You can't add several inputs to a bike at once, especially opposing inputs, and expect smoothness. Smoothly roll off power when approaching a turn, smoothly apply front brake if needed to settle the chassis ( not always needed!), smoothly apply rear brake if needing to tighten your line, smoothly release the brakes while smoothly rolling back on the power. You do this while smoothly adding and releasing steering pressure. Start slow, feels the bike react through your bars, listen to the engine, do it again - but smoother. Then do it again and again and again. Next thing you know you will be absolutely flying through that corner with complete control and total faith. But if your try to force feed several inputs at once - forget it. Braking inputs mid corner are slight corrections made necessary by road imperfections or rider error. It's not how you should be intentionally planning to attack every turn. Sorry for the rant. The YouTube Professors with no accountability annoy me to no end. Ride safe, y'all! I'm going back under my rock
  17. 2 points
    This Sondors Metacycle electric motorcycle is weirdly affordable and looks epic - SlashGear Sondors has revealed its first electric motorcycle, branching out from e-bikes but still promising usable range at an unexpectedly affordable price tag. Rather than the five-figure electric motorbi…
  18. 2 points
    Wow. Did not see a (partially) dropped valve coming. Glad that you got it sorted, hate that you had to go the long way around. Not super uncommon for keepers to pop out when in the hands of a dude bro type. You know, the rev bomber listen to my sick pipe on the rec limiter braaaDADADADADADADA type.
  19. 2 points
    I liked how quiet the stock system is. I now have the Akra ti, and with the baffle in it’s the same sound level as stock at the revs noise is tested at (5000 rpm?). It would be even quieter with the (optional) cat fitted. At lower revs it has more volume and bass than the stock system (sounds beautiful!).
  20. 2 points
    Yes, small engines are great for learning. In the 1960s when I was maybe six or eight years old my father got a box of parts from a friend of his. It was a completely disassembled lawnmower engine that had overheated and scored the piston and cylinder. Dad showed me how to put it together step-by-step, including marking and cutting gaskets from gasket stock, setting point gap, etc.. It wasn't going to run again, but I learned how an engine worked, and it wasn't long before I was working on engines that would run again.
  21. 2 points
    Correct one keeper half was pushed up other half stayed in place. The valve stayed in place and also wasnt rocketed out because of the bucket going over the valve. So I was told by my mechanic. So in that case I have indeed been lucky and have also been very happy that I did not drive it to the garage. Because that could have made it a lot worse. The noise was because the valve was not properly functioning because of this and this caused the left engine to misfire.
  22. 2 points
    If the valve had dropped you would be looking for a new head and piston by now, lucky escape by the sound of it.
  23. 2 points
    A friend of mine had a 427 Chevy that suffered major engine damage when a valve keeper came out like this. He had just rebuilt it and apparently didn't quite get one of the 32 of them exactly into the groove on the valve stem. One can only guess about why this one came out unless the previous owner knows and decides to share the information.
  24. 2 points
    Is it part #3? That is supposed to be in two parts, unless I am misunderstanding your photos.
  25. 2 points
    We tuned with the Akra baffle IN. This forum will not allow .pvm file attachments. Send me a private msg with your email address & I can send you my .pvm file. Catfish ...
  26. 2 points
    You need to connect a wire from the speed sensor to the correct input on the PCV (5th port from the left, see instructions). You then need to calibrate the PCV (via laptop & dynojet software) so it knows what gear the bike is in. You need a rear stand (or dyno) for this. You don’t have to calibrate the speed to use per gear fuel maps, this video shows how to do both. Speed and Gear Calibration | Dynojet In this video we discuss the Power Commander 5 optional speed and gear inputs. We go over how to connect, configure, and calibrate these inputs. Check out the video below! These are the values that ended up in my gear calibration table:
  27. 2 points
    Some ideas here: He mentions it, but I've read this elsewhere: You're not trusting the bike, you're trusting the seller. So the vibes you get from the seller may be more important than the vibes you get from the bike. Also bring a strong flashlight; it's amazing what you can see under a strong light.
  28. 2 points
    I looking for good cams to my mt. Im still stock engine
  29. 2 points
  30. 2 points
    Update: My bikes a lot of fun. It gets up and goes if you want it to! My girl loved it so much.. well.. just see below https://youtube.com/channel/UCcf8X2QYN8OT8dd_ltaiG8w
  31. 2 points
    Added a quick shifter and converted the XSR700 to race shift. Now both bikes shift the same direction... I drilled out the stock heim joint on the stock shifter so I could mount it on the opposite side. This was needed to clear the stock frame cover. I drilled it out too large, 5/16", so I had to add a spacer for the 6mm fastener. My mistake was not centering the first drill. If you get it centered perfectly, you can drill it to 6mm. You will still want a 6mm fender washer between the new heim joint and shifter because of the bevel left from the rivited stock heim joint.
  32. 2 points
    Here's a before and after shot. I think I'm actually done now. It's street legal and everything, ton of fun. Makes a great addition to my garage next to the FZ.
  33. 2 points
    Nice build!!! I have a couple questions: 1) Why the XSR over the MT? Aren't they the same frame/motor? Is there something I'm missing? 2) What kind of work do you do? You fabricate some really nice stuff!!!! I'm a Journeyman Steamfitter/Certified welding inspector. Most folks "think" they can weld aluminum, you obviously know what your doing. Nice stuff -
  34. 2 points
    The stacks on my FZ07R are shorter than the Hord stacks, but I never tested which was better. Just didn't make the time. But I do know the shorter stacks run well with the Hord map. I'm sure it's not optimum. But, the FZ07R felt fantastic on the track first time out last year, so just got lazy with regard to remapping.
  35. 2 points
    The Hordpower airbox will absolutely be better than just adding an aftermarket filter and lid. The reason is mostly from the shorter velocity stacks that the Hord uses. But also the larger filter allows for more airflow.
  36. 2 points
    Thanks! I need to fabricate the ram-air setup for the new air box. And paint the bike. That's the plan for this winter. Most of this winter I have been working on some drag race mods for my street ridden XSR700. I have some close friends that drag race cars, so I plan on spending most of my racing time at the drag strip in 2021. But will still attend NYST as much as possible. It's tough having two bikes to make time for. Lol
  37. 2 points
    Here is one option for an adjustable link. It's as simple as it gets, one female rodend and one male. Current length is stock with plenty of room to go shorter, higher rear height. But, I need to go lower and not sure if this will go long enough before running out of threads. No big deal, there are many other rodend setup options, just need to wait and see what length I need. Either way, this is how the link will mount to the frame.
  38. 2 points
    I guess the alternative would be to call it a Hord ‘filter’ but that would be doing a huge disservice to how the parts actually function. Just like an air box it has intake runners tuned to maximise performance where the designer intended. The alloy CNC radiused bell mouths inside are pure moto porn!
  39. 2 points
    1. The crank case vent is vented into the Hord box like the stock setup. 2. It feeds both throttle bodies and does indeed have a somewhat large air capacity within the filter compared to a pod filter. 3. It incorporates machined velocity stacks to provide a dyno tuned air flow.
  40. 2 points
    I got my "old" Hordpower air box installed. This is a high quality piece. I had it on my FZ07R and then took it apart to use the front plate for my first cold air intake. It traveled in my spare parts bin to the track last year. And now I put it back together, cleaned the original filter, and it looks like a new part on my XSR700!
  41. 2 points
    Talking gearing is like asking "what's the best tire?". Even so let's go there into the quagmire. I changed my gearing - I went from 16/43 to 16/44. Ya, I gave that torque-kee wheelie machine a little more jazz (but not for wheelies, just the opposite). For those who don't know I yanked the stock suspension out of my bike and slipped in Ohlins NIX 22 and STX 46. That move transformed everything, it's not the same class of machine that rolled out of the showroom. The bike is PLANTED, confident, capable of things most stock bikes can't deliver. It's another world, but that's a different story. So I slipped on a 44 tooth rear sprocket. One more tooth. Here's what I ride now. A bike where 6th gear is not "way out there", no it's been invited back to the party the rest of the transmission is having. And that transmission wall-flower 4th gear - wow it's suddenly discovered all kinds of things it can do. That one tooth pulled the whole transmission together in a way that amazes me - I mean that totally. I never imagined the payoff I got. One tooth has made everything disjointed about that tranny come together like a great rock n roll song. One caution, you know how the stock suspension when you launch at an intersection, those few ripples in the transition cause the stock forks to pogo cycle then loft the front wheel and you cooly carry the front wheel across the intersection. Ask yourself, is that a suspension operating outside its capabilities? You all have an amazing motorcycle, so capable but held back by one item Yamaha neglected intentionally, they threw 1990 forks in an 2020+ machine. You can fix that, then add a tooth, and have a planted racebike that will probably be the best handling machine ever owned. And you don't need Ohlins. I think emulators are about $500. I wish that for you all, because it's like getting another new motorcycle
  42. 2 points
    As others have stated, I think you need to get the bike back to stock. You found bad wiring from prior owner. The quick shifter "may" be fine, but the wiring from it will momentarily cut power during the shift. I would just eliminate all the variables one by one until the bike runs normally, then you can add stuff back in.
  43. 2 points
    I got a new windshield for it too. This is how it looks right now. I'm still working on the front fairing. Did I mention I trimmed down the giant front fender. Once again I wanted it to look newer and weight less lol.
  44. 2 points
    Looking at the bigger picture, you may want to read this article by 2 Wheel DynowWorks. WHY IS ECU FLASHING BETTER THAN USING A “PIGGYBACK” FUEL CONTROLLER? – 2 Wheel DynoWorks "Even on a relatively simple fuel injection system, like the one used on a Yamaha FZ/MT-07, Power Commanders, and every other piggyback fuel controller, simply doesn’t cut it anymore. They don’t allow for adjustment of the individual IAP vs RPM and TPS v RPM tables, which the ECU references and weights differently depending on the particular load, throttle, and engine speed (RPM) data inputs that are constantly being referenced by the fuel mapping algorithms. Without specific control over both sets of fuel mapping tables, some of the lighter throttle/load points simply can’t be properly tuned. This is part of the reason why most Power Commander users for these bikes still experience significant popping/backfiring on deceleration and light throttle transition with aftermarket intake/exhaust systems!"
  45. 2 points
    Not ignorance but good questions! ready to bolt on to your bike with your rotors, only other thing you would have to buy separately is the sprocket, rather than make different sprocket applications for all bikes they build their sprocket carrier the same as some of the other aftermarket wheel companies, i.e marchesini and bst. and sprockets for that 'bolt pattern' are fairly easy to source.
  46. 2 points
    At least one of us gets to keep his man card this winter. This is great stuff, carry on.
  47. 2 points
    Small update, cylinder head just about finished, intake cam back from being reground, hope to be able to be able to check valve to piston clearance soon and then get the head skimmed to increase compression a little. Adapted a car engine stand to take the MT07 engine to make working on it a little easier.
  48. 1 point
    For what it's worth, narrow band is 12mm, wide band is 18mm.
  49. 1 point
    I know this is a really older thread, but I had to comment. The exact opposite is true. The smaller piston will increase braking power, but will increase lever travel. Bigger piston will decrease braking pressure, but have less lever travel. The reason for less feel is that you have to squeeze harder to get the same pressure. I dealt with this when I was installing a single master cylinder to operate all three calipers on an 89 Gold Wing. I contacted Dr. John Wittner of 80s-90s MotoGuzzi endurance racing fame along with joining Guzzi in redesigning their sport models going into the new millenium. He filled me in. The smaller bore increases the power from the lever (of course there is the actual mechanical leverage of the hand lever too), it moves less fluid so the lever will travel closer to the handlebar, but more pressure from the master cylinder. That is from basic fluid power. It is best to know what the brake caliper piston area is and compare to master cylinder piston size. If you can squeeze one pound at the lever and the piston is one square inch you have one PSI, if the piston is two square inches you have 1/2 PSI . That is how the master cylinder works. Now at the caliper if you have one PSI in the line and your piston area is 4 square inches you have 4 pounds pressure. If you have 8 square inches you have 8 lb pressure. That's why you need to know what is what in piston sizes both at the master cylinder and at the calipers. An example of what I'm saying, look at any hydraulic ram, the pump piston is very small in comparison to the actual ram. The reason for that is if it is bigger it would take too much effort to work for heavy loads.
  50. 1 point
    Well had to start some place. So, glass repair it is... the rear end of the subframe punched through the tail section. This can happen when you ball slap the tail bouncing over curbing. Not recamended as it's hard on the tea bag, I mean the tailsection.
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