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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/18/2022 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    After 14 seasons of being a "track-day" rider/coach, I've stepped up my game!!! At 53 years old, I'm doing my first club-race at my "most" local track- BIR!!! (Brainerd International Raceway), in Brainerd, MN.... I have many laps on that track, and can't wait to do my first sanctioned race, on August 12th!!!! I know the learning curve will be HIGH (to say the least ). I'm racing my "07" in naked trim... I'm NOT chasing championships, or points.... I'm only chasing my smile (and anyone that runs about my pace) ... I have nothing to prove to anyone. (other than myself)... It just feels "right"- I probably wouldn't be doing ANY of this without the guidance/support of @mossrider... Dave has been a mentor to me and encouraged me to pursue my race license - he even offered to lend me his totally "bad-a$$" FZ-07R to pursue my race license (which I declined at the time)... I can't wait to chase my smile!!!!
  2. 5 points
    Right on CSlider! You the naked bike man, and that makes it the best look'in on the start grid. Go like hell but don't ride outside of what you practice - you already won And you! Mossrider! ---- Well, you are a jack of all moto angles with advice tailored for who you give it too, just when they need it the most. You're words & person are missed around here ....
  3. 4 points
  4. 3 points
    A spray can of WD-40 is $12 for 14.4 ounces at wally-world, that math means we're paying $106 a gallon. But you can buy a 1 gallon tin can of WD-40 for $23 on the same wally-worldz webpage. Hmm, 1 gallon for $23, I'm old, that's enough for the rest of my life and then some if I just go back to sniffing glue. Only thing that needs done is to put WD-40 in a spray bottle with a pump and you saved big $$$$$. So reuse an empty spray bottle you already have - it needs a good pump, adjustable nozzle, and smaller is better. Or do this below because no reason: That's a Performance Tool 6 oz Pistol Oiler part #W54265. Then unscrew the flexible spout that comes with the pistol oiler, and make this devil instead. Just cut the WD-40 "flexible straw" off an empty can (about 6 inches long), and you probably have the rubber/silicone lines in your tool box, or bedroom floor, or where-ever you use it the most. Stick an awl inside the cut end of the flexible straw to open it up fully again (cutting crushes it closed part way). Force most of that flexible straw down inside of the two lines will help it seal, and leave a couple inches outside for directional spraying. Warning, WD-40 leaks out of my reused spray bottle and out of this oil can - it's low surface tension I think is the correct way to say it, makes it migrate and coat everything, especially metallic. Or some kind of dielectric buggery at work here. The pistol oiler only shoots a small amount of WD-40 for each trigger pull - and that's what I wanted (like a small dose given to a keyhole on the garage door that is rusting up inside). It's nothing like a full trigger pull of an old fashioned 30W oil can - that would be way, way too much. At these savings, go buy one last can of WD-40 with the "flexible straw" (if you don't already have one) and cut the straw off when you get home - (you can still spray and use that handicapped can of the stuff till it's gone without the straw).
  5. 3 points
    I'm not interested in buying your bag, but I wanted to leave a message for anyone who is. The Kriega US-20 Drybag is a GREAT piece of luggage. I own a US-20, and am very happy with it. I would highly recommend it to anyone especially at that price which is a great deal.
  6. 3 points
    Waiting on a battery - amazon shipper running slow, so I changed plugs early & washed the k&n. Cleaned up my chain (sort of with wd 40), the only cleaning I've done to a chain in a long time - years long time. I run quality chain dirty, adjusted, and wet and get lots of miles out of sealed drive chain. With all things from the olden tymes in mind, like growing up we just picked up whatever pump oil can was in the garage and gave the chain a dose, three times a year if it needed it or not, and these were not o-ring chains lithium lubed rivets & barrels. So that's how I'm going to run this vx3 chain, hit it once and a while with gear oil. Just enough to prevent rust, and leave the lube to DID. For curiosity and amusement. Then I thought about all the years we ran chains with clip (split style) master links, and death and destruction did not run rampant ( @klx678 has some good comments talking chain history on this site) (think @shinyribshad a chain go AWOL at freeway speed). So I just happen to have a VX3 split master link on this current chain, why not give the split master a safety wire, just so I can say I've checked it out. That's double redundant safety wires - one can fail but there's always a backup. It's @M. Hausknecht's fault - he told me to safety wire my slipp'in grip. Now I got this spool of wire and no where to show...
  7. 3 points
    In olden tymes, chains where running in rubber hoses. They are encapsulating the complete drive train, no dirt will come in. This is my MZ ES 175/2 from 71, I've installed a modern DID 425 without O-rings, top edge technology for this bike. Even with the original low quality chains the manual recommends only gear oil for the chain, every 2500 km /1553 miles. I also fill the hoses with A LOT of grease what really enhances the durability. MZ kept the rubber hoses until the late 80s. You can expect that the chain lasts many 10.000 km, but of course this depends on a lot of parameters. Also: fancy bar end turn indicators and bar end mirror. It's not new, it's 50 years old grandpa stuff
  8. 3 points
    Ride Safe, Play Safe, and don't forget to have fun!! Enjoy
  9. 3 points
    Good for you Cornerslider, take it to the next level. Good Luck and have a Great Time. Ed
  10. 3 points
    Way to go, start line nerves and 40 guys all wanting the same bit of tarmac on the first corner, adrenaline rush or what. Good luck for the 12th
  11. 3 points
    I ordered all my parts through partzilla. I added the factory pro shifter arm and spring while i was in there since i was starting to get 5th gear pop outs. Every works harmoniously and no more locking up the rear on trying to late break and down shift to 2nd. Is it as good as my RSVR slipper? No. Is it worth the $300. Absolutely.
  12. 3 points
    Little update, we're probably about 1/2 to 2/3 of the way through our season, and so far my current PB was set last weekend with a 9.44 at 144mph. Hoping to break into the 9.3's this season. I'm also on track to finish this first season on a brand new bike in the top 10 in our points, pretty pumped about that. Since I'm unsure of how to post a video clip, if it's even possible, here's a link to an IG post that has a gopro video from on the bike during that run. https://www.instagram.com/p/Cgf4wuirvs5/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
  13. 3 points
    Sometimes you can leave the rotor's center bolt in place, but backed out a little, and push on that. Otherwise you need something for the puller bolt to push against other than the crankshaft threads.
  14. 3 points
    I used a decently large zip tie. You make it into a "lasso" around the cop (coil on plug). Slide it down to where you want to grip the COP, then tighten up the zip tie to close the lasso on the COP. The you can grab the end of the zip tie with pliers, and you can put a lot of pulling power on the COP, pulling up. I didn't need it, but I was going to make 2 lassos, and tighten 2 down around the COP to pull, using the zip ties on opposite sides, so you can get more force and it pulls the COP straight up. When you put them back on, spray a clean rag with spray silicone, and wipe the COP rubber boots with the rag. Just the boots where they make contact with the valve cover. Next time, they will come off easier, like "pull them off with your hands" easier.
  15. 3 points
    These fasteners are performing critical functions. I'd get stock replacements. The full length threads on the bolts are not good bearing surfaces and are going to tend to grind/cut the stuff that rotate on them. The nuts should have washers if you can't find suitable flanged nuts. The grooves on your flanged nuts are also going to do some grinding. Are you using a torque wrench?
  16. 2 points
    @Triple Jim Starting has definitely improved! The hot start hesitation has gone away, and cold starts are easier (I don't have to hold down the starter as long before the engine catches). The jury is still out on fuel economy - I've only put a few miles on since I got the motor back together, so I'll have to report back. But based on the few miles so far... it looks like the source of the problem may largely be in my right wrist. @Pursuvant I have nothing but praise for your How To!! Any time I'm working on valves, there's always a moment when I've got everything back together, but there's 5% of my brain that still wonders whether I got the timing right, and worries that I'm about to crash a valve into a piston as I turn the engine over. I turned to your guide to check and double check my work, and it gave me confidence that I wasn't going to blow up my motor upon startup. I especially appreciate that you included a count of the links on the cam chain between the intake and exhaust sprockets! Thanks again for the effort you put into the writeup!
  17. 2 points
    It was similar to that just at a slower speed I was just in a loading dock area and just tried to power wheelie in a second and the front end came up quick. My mind went blank and took my foot off the rear break. Tried to hop off the back of the bike and land on my feet. I was able to land one foot down and one of my shins dragged getting a slight road rash. Nothing serious. The bike just took a hard slam and skid. All in all I'm alright and the bike is repairable for not that much money. It was a good learning lesson that I think I needed to go through. My buddy was telling me to do something along the lines of that video just with the front suspension. He told me to just loosen the triple clamps and axle bolts then work the suspension through its travel and hopefully it'll straighten out. He rides dirt bikes and said it happens every time he crashes. Haven't tried it yet but hopefully, it works. If not I'll try what that guy did in the video.
  18. 2 points
    Well, 2020/2021 was a crazy couple of years and I ended up moving, buying and renovating a house, and changing jobs. I just really didn't get the time to ride like I wanted and the bike didn't get many miles. My wife and I also got pregnant late in 2021, and as of writing this post, baby Savannah is 3 months old and I'm finally able to start getting some real time back on the bike. The pregnancy was a little rough towards the beginning and again at the end (preeclampsia is pretty scary), but we're getting into a routine and my wife actually decided she enjoys it when I get out of the house for a few hours - so I am happy to oblige on the bike! I'm also playing with the go pro a little more. I'm learning to color correct and I'm looking into the best way to mount the camera and potentially an audio recorder. Maybe some of my rides will make it to YouTube?
  19. 2 points
    @cornerslider Good for you! You're not nearly too old to begin your racing adventures. I'll be very interested to read of your impressions and experience. I've found track days, and track day riding, to be different in many respects from racing, even at the club level, but that probably says more about me than any inherent differences in the two. With as much seat time as you have at BIR, I'm not sure the learning curve is as long or as steep as you imagine. Getting your license is easy; understand the flags and start procedures, and just don't crash out of your "mock race", and you'll have your license. The important stuff you already know, your bike and how to ride the track. Whether you approach riding in competition differently from riding in a track day is entirely up to you and mostly within your control. Whether you stretch yourself and exceed your track day pace, or battle other riders for position, is all up to you. So, either way, have fun!
  20. 2 points
    Welcome to the forum, Styo11
  21. 2 points
    Quick update, I tested the charging system by checking the battery before during and after the engine ran, the voltage stayed above 14 it fluctuated but stayed above 14 and did not reach 15 while it was running and before and after it returned to 12. Something .I’m gonna assume that’s a good thing. Secondly I didn’t remove the gas bc I had already spent and refilled the bike about 4 time prior of me posting on here. Third, I did remove the power commander and I think honestly that was my issue, I did not experience any flutter on todays ride. When it was idling during the warm up it kinda sounded like she was gonna die just a bit but barely, I think that’s maybe form the cold start and also not being cranked in the month I was gone for work. But other then that the bike today had no sputters didn’t die on me while riding, let’s see how the rest of the week goes bc in the past it would do that and it just became worse over time…did notice a huge difference without the pcm v lol, but I will look into getting the ecu flashed by the recommend company. So far so good hopefully that was it lol thank you again everyone!!!!
  22. 1 point
    Still waiting on my TOCE Razor Tip exhaust system to arrive, but I got my first YouTube ride up. Literally just a gentle ride around local roads, but I'm learning to edit, mix audio, and color correct. First ride video!
  23. 1 point
    Just found this I think he starved the engine, rev bombing at 12,oclock
  24. 1 point
    Ok this is not what you think. I have my MT and I stunt ride it In parking lots. And on the back roads here in South Korea. My problem are as Follows besides myself I know of three other stunt riders in this country that are ok. Meaning they can find balance point and do some footbrake work not your typical power wheelie yahoos which most of these clowns are. I have looked high and low for any information on the subject of oil Starvation if it is an issue or any parts I can add to correct said issue I can find nothing. so let me get a Headstart here running away from you as you all get the pitchforks and the torches ready OK here it is I overfill by 300-500cc of oil just in case oil starvation is an issue and after recently having my oil pan off I looked up there and noticed That it is possible to make a divider plate to keep the oil or some of it in the pan closest to the pick up instead of it all going into the transmission when you are at 12 o’clock or 1 o’clock or sometimes 2 o’clock what are your thoughts and opinions. and or possible fixes. Is Oil starvation a actual issue I don’t know if it is because I could not find any bearing material when doing oil Changes. And due to the hard nature of me riding I change my oil once a month at the minimum and not with cheap shet. Here I will attach a picture of the inside of the pan looks like I am going to try to see if I can get a plate made what do you guys think
  25. 1 point
    Looped my new to me FZ 07 doing something stupid that I should not have been doing. Got some damage to the tail, rear set, and leaking coolant, front forks seem to be twisted as well. What parts are needed to repair this and is it worth it to repair out of pocket or use my insurance? I am new to this so any info would be great! The bike was dropped going slow like 10-20 miles an hour.
  26. 1 point
  27. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, kasser
  28. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, SamWendy
  29. 1 point
    Yes, agreed but its fuel or spark, right? A dirty injector can fail to fully atomize the fuel, resulting in a delayed burn, that could be happening some in the pipe; that's my theory anyways. Sorta like an overly retarded spark resulting in mixture still burning when the exhaust valve opens.
  30. 1 point
    The rearsets Woodcraft? Those pieces are easily replaced for not a lot of money and the bent pieces are easily bent back. However if you have fork damage combined with the rear damage will probably be over $500 unless you go bargain hunting. What you need to ask yourself is whether or not it's worth taking the hit on the higher premium which is more then likely to happen if you file a claim. Twisted forks can be a big deal or not. It could as simple as a bent triple clamp that can easily be bent back to true, to bent tubes which if you know what you're doing is not a big deal to fix, to a bent frame which could be repairable or complete junk at this point. Your best option is to find someone that knows what they are looking at. You can push on the front to see if the forks move down and up freely but you do need to get it through most of its stroke.
  31. 1 point
    I have for sale one of the cleanest 2016 FZ-07’s around. The bike is built as best as I could have built it. 5200 miles very low for the year. Not ragged or dropped. Full carbon Yoshirmura Exhaust. Hord Power Box intake and tune, a few months ago. The flash tune is dyno proven 80rwhp and 50TQ . KTech Razor Lite shock, installed a few months ago. 3 windshields, two Amazon and MRA currently on. Ermax belly pan, side panels, rear cowl,frame sliders, and front and rear sliders as well, engine covers custom gel seat reupholstered by me. Waaay better than the stock seat. NOT 1/4in cheap eBay gel, I used the 3/4-1in saddelmen gel. Front and rear tires are new, installed Oct 2021. R6 throttle tube conversion. CRG mirrors, race grips, battery is 2019 or 2020 I believe. clean Ohio title. Located in the Dayton, Ohio area. No leaks or issues! $6000. Pics are too large to upload but I can email you addition pics and or start up, walk around videos to your private email.
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    The feel I get with an R6 master cylinder (cheapo Brembo), steel braided lines, and double carbon pads with my stock '19 07 brakes is very firm. I get little lever movement and two finger braking to near lockup. I have Brembo Stylema calipers, Brembo 19 RCS Corsa Corta master cylinder, and braided lines on my Kramer HKR Evo2R. These nearly top of the line Brembo items are no firmer, although they accommodate many adjustments to "feel", but allow one finger braking to near lockup. I find both options to be acceptable although differing in price by several hundred dollars. Someone with a more refined sense of such things would probably find greater differences. For street and track day use, the combination on my 07 is more than adequate, even though the high end Brembo stuff is a little better at race pace. You pays your money, you make your choice.
  34. 1 point
    I'm a bit late here but I'm sure this will save someone some time. I did some deep googling and found this document. Essentially, per this document you can buy this cable and everything should work. I cannot confirm as I have not purchased either but I will be in the very near future since I destroyed my dash at my last track day. I'm hoping to replace it with this unit entirely and get the benefit of it being a lap timer as well.
  35. 1 point
    I'm mildly interested in playing around with this a bit but don't expect me to find anything better than what you already run, because "good enough is good enough"
  36. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, SamOne
  37. 1 point
    Thx, I'm on board with Dupont. Because supply chain sux, I'm stocking hard parts for stuff I do over 18 mos, and been grabbing an extra or two of consumables. I ran for 30+ days this season on a backup rear sprocket & chain while I waited on drivenracing.com set, custom 44 tooth rear took them 4+ mos to drop at the shop. I switched to superlite for the current set so I didn't have to run backups
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Hey guys! Its about time I started sharing some of the progress of my project super hooligan bike, along with a little bit of the back story. I originally bought the bike in May of 2018, solely based on the motor AND exhaust note (uncorked that is). Once I started riding it I was even more so impressed with the FZ's ride-ability. Within the first week I had already put in for a 2WDW ECU reflash, SC Project CR-T full system, K&N filter, and a host of other small mods that made the bike less boring to look at. It didn't take long after that to venture down the rabbit hole in search more available options for wheels, brakes, engine mods, and full-on custom project bike inspirations. Of all the different routes to go with molding an FZ into something much cooler than a factory bike, I couldn't get away from the whole street tracker/dirt tracker/super hooligan theme and the huge number of inspirations out there. I got a lot of inspirations for my project from the Honda CB1100 TR Marco Simoncelli tribute bike, the Bott Power Buell builds, and Rough Craft's Yamaha Yardbuilt bikes, to name a few. After about a year of riding the FZ, that's when I decided to initiate this project. The whole idea behind this bike is to have the satisfaction of transforming a great bike into something even better (I understand that's subjective). When its all said and done I don't expect there to be much, if any, OEM components on this bike. So far the plan consists of the following: Major engine, wheel, brake, and suspension upgrades (read: anything that can be done will probably be done), a few pretty heavy frame modifications, and custom fabrication work including but not limited to exhaust, fuel tank, seat, etc., (both in-house and from outside sources). Here is the bike before I started the project : and here it is in it's current form: This is just a quick rundown for my project. Over all I'd say a rough estimate on progress of completion would about 25-30%, so this will be an ongoing thread when time allows. Aside from just looking at photos of other bikes for hours on end for inspiration, everything I've fabricated for the bike has just been off the top of my head (no drawings or anything!) I've tracked the progress of the build with photos, so I'll get into more detail about the steps I've completed so far, and some deviations that have occurred along the way, and some of the other fabrication tidbits and mods I have planned for the bike in a near future post. Hopefully you guys enjoy following the progress as much as I enjoy taking on this challenging project! Cheers! Austin
  40. 1 point
    Some of the local auto parts stores have tools they lend. I have borrowed a spring compressor before. They put an authorization on your credit card and then remove it when you return the tool. I am not sure if a rotor puller is something that might be available, but it is worth a phone call.
  41. 1 point
    This is what I made to do the job when I pulled my fly wheel and the other is the cheap tool I later bought in case I needed to do it or a similar job again.
  42. 1 point
    I haven't needed to pull mine, but it looks like a generic puller like this would work. This isn't a recommendation, just the general idea of what I'd probably look for. Be sure what what you get is the right size for the job. This one says it's about 3" in diameter. https://www.amazon.com/AUTOKAY-Universal-Flywheel-Snowmobile-Kawasaki/dp/B0789HBP1M/ref=psdc_15690151_t1_B014VG20JM If you don't mind a little work, you could make one. I recently had to pull the harmonic balancer on my boat engine, and I used this, which I made a few decades ago, and modified for different applications:
  43. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, TurboGlizda
  44. 1 point
    -->Part 2 Disclaimer - all my mods will kill you and cause athletes foot fungus Here's the deal - nobody can do as good of a job adjusting the valves on your bike than you can. Nobody. Just do it. All of us here will help you. Essential Knowledge Crank Chart Stone Cold Motor - for adjusting valve clearance Intake Valve Clearance - 0.11mm - 0.20mm Exhaust Valve Clearance - 0.24mm - 0.30mm Double Overhead Cams Sketch. The first sketch on left shows the typical operation of the engine - double overhead cams being turned by sprocket/chain on the crankshaft and tensioned by the Cam Chain Tensioner (CCT), rotating in the direction of the arrow - this is the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). In the second sketch, the CCT has been removed and the slack in the chain could allow the chain to slip off the crank sprocket. The engine is put back in time during reassembly, using the timing marks on the two cams and the rotor timing marks (third and fourth sketch). rotor timing marks About feeler gauges - don't force. The right size will slide between gap with the same drag as pulling a piece of paper out from under a magazine. Hold the feeler gauge between thumb and forefinger. Don't let the feeler gauge touch the engine case. Use two feeler gauge blades together for cam clearance measures - single blade can give a false sense of resistance because the angle of cam measures. Get blades a little oily. Example -to measure minimum 0.24mm exhaust valve clearance, use 0.15mm & 0.09mm blades together. Prerequisites: Order Yamaha OEM Service Manual for your bike year/model MT-07, FZ-07, XSR700, Tenere700, any with CP2 motor. Undress your bike for the job – pull the fuel tank panels and fuel tank. TAKE A PICTURE of everything under the tank on both sides once tank is off, before you start removing/moving things to get access to the engine top end. Remove the radiator (drain first), clutch cable guide, coils, spark plugs, cylinder head cover. Put 2 zip-ties around the cylinder #2 Coil On Plug (COP) spark lead wire so you know which is what at reassembly time. AND PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. Key Parts & Tools, if you go all the way Yamaha OEM - Highly Recommended 1 x Yamaha Shop Manual, for your bike model 1 x 1WS-11193-01-00 HEAD COVER GASKET 1 x 1WS-12213-00-00 TENSIONER CASE GASKET Nice To Have 1 x 93210-357A3-00 O-RING Crankcase access cover seal 1 x 90430-08143-00 GASKET, Crankcase cover timing marks bolt gasket 2 x LMA-R8A9S-00-00 SPARK PLUG LMAR8A9S 1 x 5SL-12214-00-00 GASKET Tensioner special tool access bolt gasket Tools (All Highly Recommended) 1 x Mfg Part# FG-02-032 TUSK Feeler gauges 1 x Mfg Part# 08-0652 Motion Pro magnetic pickup 1 x Mfg Part# CMMT98348 Craftsman powerful magnetic pickup for buckets 1 x Mfg Part# 201872 Anytime Tools micrometer Supplies Permatex "High Tack" gasket sealant - keeps the valve cover gasket in the valve cover while you struggle getting it back on. Red Line Assembly Lube - yes because it's red, and you can see that you have used too much, or none at all, because it's red. Measuring Cylinder #1 Valve Clearances This is the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side). Remove the crankshaft cover and the timing mark access bolt. Only rotate the engine counter-clockwise. Refer to the first row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 0" Use a 19mm socket wrench on the crankshaft end nut exposed by removing the crankshaft cover. Rotate slowly the crankshaft counter-clockwise, while looking thru the timing mark bolt opening, and align the rotor timing marks (RED timing mark for clarity). Cylinder #1 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE". If cam lobes are not facing opposite, rotate the crankshaft counter-clockwise until the rotor timing marks align again. And repeat the check of cylinder #1 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE". This is the position for measuring cylinder #1 valve clearance (cylinder #1 TDC compression stroke). Here is the "callout" I will refer to below. Measure cylinder #1 exhaust valves - check the minimum spec of 0.24mm using the 0.15mm & 0.09mm blades together. Continue measuring until satisfied with a good clearance measure, record results on paper for "Exhaust.C1.V1" & "Exhaust.C1.V2" (the two exhaust valves clearance measures). Repeat for the two intake valves "Intake.C1.V3" & "Intake.C1.V4". On paper, be sure it is clear which valve clearance measure is which - draw a diagram that makes it clear. FYI the red in photos is assembly lube - the cams have been in and out multiple times during picture taking. Measuring Cylinder #2 Valve Clearances Refer to the second row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 270". Make a degree wheel, and cut a hole to fit it onto wrench with the 19mm socket used to turn the crankshaft... Setup a pointer, to measure the rotation to 270 degrees... ...and rotate the crank counter-clockwise 270 degrees, the required position for measuring cylinder #2 valves clearances. Cylinder #2 Cams Lobes Facing should "FACE OPPOSITE" (cylinder #2 TDC compression stroke). Measure cylinder #2 clearance with the same procedure as used on cylinder #1 measures, and record measures for cylinder #2 exhaust "Exhaust.C2.V5" & "Exhaust.C2.V6" and intake "Intake.C2.V7" & "Intake.C2.V8". If any valve clearances measures are out of Yamaha specification, continue with the removal of cams and the swapping of new shims into position under the cam lobe buckets described in Part 2.
  45. 1 point
    i can absolutely confirm that replacing the rear shock makes a huge difference to how planted the bike feels in a turn. i tossed the ktech razor-r lite on mine, feels like im much more in control while jackassing about.
  46. 1 point
    Added some active accent lights that take input from my turn signals and brake lights! Go watch the video on reddit https://www.reddit.com/r/MT07/comments/vhywf4/dabbled_with_underglowaccent_lights_like_the_busa/?utm_medium=android_app&utm_source=share
  47. 1 point
    <-- Part 2 'continued from Part 2 If you have been following Part 1 & Part 2, your motor crankshaft is already in position for removing and reinstalling the cams. Essential Knowledge Refer to the third row in the Crank Chart "Crank Rotation Degrees 360" - this is the position for cam removal and installation (cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke). If the crankshaft has not been turned since the cams were removed, a check of the rotor flywheel timing marks will be in alignment, exactly as they were set before the cams were removed - aligned properly and with cylinder #1 TDC Exhaust Stroke (RED timing mark added for clarity). Sketches are views from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). Putting the motor in time, is a sequence of steps starting at the crank cam sprocket and working counter-clockwise to remove cam chain slack and align timing marks on the cams, and the final step of installing the cam chain tensioner and adjusting to remove remaining slack. In these sketches, the RED color indicates where the cam chain slack has been removed during reassembly. Keep a clear understanding that when viewed from the "RIGHT" side of the bike (foot brake side), the running engine will turn clockwise. The crank cam sprocket turning clockwise will pull "down" so to speak on the exhaust cam and in turn pull the intake cam sprocket, the cam lobes opening and closing valves in time with the crank motion of the pistons without self-destructing. Before the valve cover goes back on, it is easy to confirm the motor is in time by simply checking the involved timing marks, rotating the crank one full 4 stroke cycle (720 degrees) and checking them all again. And then check them again, and take pictures to send to anybody who cares, that you do your own valves. It is also obvious if the motor has not been put in time. If the cam sprocket timing marks are off by even one tooth, it is visually impossible to ignore. The most dangerous thing (imo) is not mistiming the cams, it's dropping something "hard" into the motor. AND PLUG ALL OIL PASSAGES/OPENINGS IN CYLINDER HEAD, SPARK PLUG OPENINGS, AND CAM CHAIN OPENING (when not rotating engine crank) WITH RAGS/SOMETHING BECAUSE ANYTHING CAN ACCIDENTALLY DROP INTO THE MOTOR. IN THIS EXAMPLE RAGS ARE REMOVED TO TAKE CLEAR PICTURES. The 4 sketches above result with the drawing below, where the final step of setting the cam chain tensioner is complete. This is a motor in time, and if any of your timing marks are not aligned with the engine case as shown below - no harm done, other than you get to go backwards removing the cam(s) to get to the step where the first misalignment occurred. Prerequisites: SEE THE YAMAHA SERVICE MANUAL. Use assembly lube on the cylinder head journals (where the camshaft "sits" when operating), the valve buckets, the cams, cam caps - all the "metal to metal" contact surfaces where movement occurs. What does not get assembly lube can be wetted with engine oil. Refer to Yamaha documentation. WET THE CAM CAP BOLTS because the torque specification is intended for bolts that have been lubed on the bolt threads with engine oil. Position key tools within reach, and set both the cams on top of the cylinder head but back out of the way of the chain until they are needed (do not place them in final position). You want everything lubed and ready to go because you will be maintaining mild tension on the cam chain (starting with the chain between the crank cam chain sprocket and the exhaust cam). My disorganized organization - as long as your brain knows what is what, you're good. Pick up the cam chain with both hands, like a necklace. Shake the cam chain a bit, and it will "free up" a little more chain that may have been caught on some of the cam chain guides (important, even if you kept the chain on the cam sprocket, there still can be some chain entangled with the chain tensioner guides). Raise the chain, and you will feel it when it slides back on the crank sprocket, its a very secure fit. Don't try to muscle the chain, if you pull hard-hard you might turn the crank that is aligned for reassembly. You just keep a relatively small amount of tension on the chain. That results in a cam chain back on the cam chain crank sprocket (in RED). Most of us only have two hands, so if you're not a squid lets tie up some of that chain so it's less likely to slide off the crank sprocket. Leave enough chain free to work on the next step, setting & timing of the exhaust cam. Below shows the extra slack taken up by a zip tie, and the right hand is holding enough of the cam chain to keep it on the crank cam sprocket. Always while working to set the cams, be conscious of keeping some mild tension on the cam chain. It's not like it has to be tensioned every moment - I often let some slack into the cam chain while working on cams but by keeping it moderate, the cam chain stays on the crank cam sprocket. Next step, set the exhaust cam. First take a clear look at the exhaust cam and it's timing marks out of the bike. There a two timing marks, one at "12" and the other at "6". They will be aligned with the top of the engine case like below when the cam is set in it's journals where it rotates. And when positioning the exhaust cam, because it has two timing marks - ensure proper position of the cam by checking the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) cylinder #1 cam lobes "FACE EACH OTHER". Below is a picture of both the cams, facing each other, as they are when in proper position for removal and installation of the cams. Align the timing cam marks, and make sure the exhaust cam lobes on cylinder #1 are oriented to "FACE EACH OTHER". Let's begin the install & timing of the exhaust cam. We want to find the cam chain "rivet" (I will call it the "pin") that is in alignment with the top of the engine case, where the exhaust cam is positioned. I'm holding the chain (with the slack removed) as if it was wrapping around the exhaust cam gear, and that identifies the pin with the RED arrow as our target for cam alignment (the picture is taken from above and that distorts the view somewhat). Let's use a diagram to show it at the top of the engine case "eye level". The chain is coming off of the crank cam sprocket and is snug with no slack, and the RED pin identifies where the exhaust cam timing mark needs to point (it should point just above the top of the pin just like the engine case does). OK, so without losing track of the RED pin or creating any slack in the chain, hold the cam above where it will eventually sit and take the cam chain (with slack removed) and wrap it around the exhaust cam sprocket, with the timing marks on the exhaust cam pointing at the top of the RED pin like below. (Sorry, I can't draw "gear teeth", so the gear below is just the circle with the two timing marks.) TIP: I have heard you can use "white out" from office supplies, and put a small dab of white on the pin - and wipe if off once complete. You can also use "mechanics pen" (Forney White Paint Marker #70818) that is oil based - but my old eyes can't see it very well. And without letting the chain go slack (as you lower the cam down into the journals you must rotate it counter-clockwise to keep the cam chain tensioned with no slack), set the cam into it's journal seats where it belongs in the cylinder head, with the timing chain wrapped around it, without any chain slack between the crank cam sprocket and the exhaust cam gear. See what we did ? - we used the cam chain off the crank cam sprocket to "measure" where the exhaust cam timing mark needed to be relative to the cam chain, then put the exhaust cam into the cam chain at that position. The cam timing mark may be a little "high" (slightly above the engine case) because it needs it's cam cap bar to "seat" itself down a little further into it's journals properly. Take the lubed up exhaust cap bar (and read the Service Manual how to lube the cap bar bolts before inserting) and start the cam cap bolts in by hand. As described in the service manual, tighten down the exhaust cam cap bolts a small amount at a time, working from the outside to the inside, in a crisscross manner. ONLY FIRMLY SNUG THE EXHAUST CAM CAP BOLTS -you want them secure so things don't move but don't put any serious torque on the cam cap yet. FOLLOW THE SERVICE MANUAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR LUBING AND SEATING ALL CAMS, CAPS, AND PARTS. With the exhaust cam set in the head, the cam is both timed properly and it has no slack (indicated by the RED outline on the cam chain) below. Nice. Now let's do the install & timing of the intake cam. If the cam chain can be used to measure where the exhaust cam timing mark needed to "point", it can also identify where the intake timing mark should point relative to the cam chain. I already know how many cam chain rivets ("pins") away from the exhaust cam timing mark, the intake pin should be on the chain. We are going to simply count from our starting position of the exhaust cam timing mark pin, and that will identify where we want the intake timing mark to point. On the exhaust cam chain, start counting from our PIN #1. Count 31 "pins". Place the intake cam on the cam chain with the timing mark (stamped with the capital letter "I") between chain PIN #31 and PIN #32. Now set the cam in place, without slack in the chain between the two cams, above the intake cam seats in the head. Because the intake cam has cam lobes pointing "downward" toward the buckets, the intake timing mark will appear too high above the engine case until the cam cap bar pushes the cam down into the cam journals properly (and it will open some valves as the cam cap is tightened). When the cam cap is used to seat the intake cam, the intake timing mark "I" will align with the cylinder head. Place the intake cam cap bar on the cam, put the bolts into position but just turn it by hand a turn or two -don't try to push the intake cam down yet with the cam cap bolts. BEFORE DOING ANYTHING ELSE STOP and do this. When the initial tightening down of the intake cam cap is applied, it will cause the timing chain around the exhaust cam gear to start to "walk" out of the cam gear (trying to slip a tooth). To prevent that from happening, we are going to proactively "bind" the cam chain to the cam gears so they can't slip, and we use a different method on each cam. To bind the exhaust cam sprocket to chain, you want to make a small "wedge" using some vacuum line, and run a safety wire or string or I used lawn trimmer line thru the center of the vacuum hose - it's the safety line so leave it long, in case the vacuum line falls into the motor you will be able to easily retrieve it. "Wedge" the vacuum line cushion down in-between the exhaust cam chain & engine case, and tie the safety line off. It should be hard to get it in place - that's good, it needs to apply some force to the chain, pushing it on to it's cam gear. That vacuum line is the right size to wedge with enough force to keep the cam chain on the exhaust cam gear. To bind the cam chain to the intake cam gear, follow the directions in the Yamaha Service Manual, for putting a zip tie around the chain and thru the "hole" in the intake cam chain sprocket (we could not do it that way on the exhaust cam gear because it has no "hole" to zip tie). Here is a blurry picture while I am putting a zip tie thru the intake cam gear hole and will tighten it around the chain, a very easy and effective way to make sure the cam chain is forced against the cam gear, and does not slip. Once both the cam gears are bound to the chain to prevent a skipped tooth, go ahead with installing the intake cam gear cap following the instructions in the Yamaha Service Manual. ONLY FIRMLY SNUG THE INTAKE CAM CAP BOLTS - you want them secure so things don't move but don't put any serious torque on the cam cap yet. This intake cam is "up above it's journals" and has a long way to go down as you tighten it (it will be pushing the intake valve buckets to open valves as you tighten), so go slow, tighten the intake cam cap small amounts at a time working from the outside in with a crisscross pattern, to bring that cam and cap down into the seats in a level, even fashion. Seriously, go slow in small increments. If you don't bring the whole cap down in small steps, you could "twist" the cam cap badly. DO NOT REMOVE THE CAM CHAIN BIND TO CAM GEARS UNTIL AFTER THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER IS REINSTALLED. Now, before applying the proper torque, look at both the cam gears to confirm they are aligned with the cylinder head. Go back to the pictures you took of the cam alignment before they were removed. Check the exhaust cam timing marks with a straightedge. The intake cam timing mark is easy to see, with the big letter "I" next to the timing mark. If it all looks good, refer to the Yamaha Service Manual and torque both the cam cap bars now. If the timing marks are not aligned, you probably already thought something wasn't right and now you can see. Go back if you have to, and do it again, making what ever corrections you think are needed. Here are some pictures I took just before removing the cams: Exhaust cam I highlighted the two timing marks in red - straight edge really helps see alignment and the intake is easy to see that it is aligned, even though my photo is from "slightly above". Get your eye down at the level of the engine case, and confirm those cams are in time, before going on with reassembly. Reinstalling the Cam Chain Tensioner and Not Following the Service Manual When the cam chain tensioner is installed it seems that it can "slap" the chain and knock the cam chain enough to throw a skipped tooth into the chain on one of the cams. But if you put binds on both cam gear/chains, it will not skip a tooth. So we are good to go with re-installing the cam chain tensioner. Retrieve the cam chain tensioner - it should be where you put it along with that special tool still inserted, keeping the chain tensioner retracted. If the special tool came out, just insert the special tool again and retract the tensioner by turning it counter clockwise until it stops - the fully retracted position. Follow the Service Manual and lube up the tensioner body with engine oil, and the tensioner arm - it is bathed in pressurized oil when it operates with engine running. Insert the tensioner into the cylinder head (with the special tool still inserted in the tensioner). Use a new tensioner gasket if you have one, and follow the Service Manual - it shows that the gasket is inserted in a certain way. Also the cam chain tensioner has a mark stamped on the body of the tensioner showing which side faces up, when it is inserted. The cylinder head opening has an oil port visible on the "in" side of the bore, and that's why it has to be installed (along with it's gasket) oriented as described in the Service Manual. With the special tool still inserted, remount the cam chain tensioner with the two outer mounting bolts, torque to Service Manual specs. Now we are going to do the initial tightening of the tensioner arm against the cam chain (the last part of the cam chain that still has slack). Follow the manual up to the point where it says to tightened the cam chain until it makes contact. Now do this instead of following the manual. Turn the special tool clockwise to the point where it makes contact, then snug the cam chain tensioner with some low-to-medium force - don't gorilla it and definitely don't follow the Service Manual (I think it says "turn it an additional half turn" - a great way to over tighten it imo). Just snug the cam chain tensioner up moderately firm against the cam chain guide with the special tool. Then take your thumb only, and press hard on the cam chain where it shows in the drawing below, between the two cam gears, and then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down. Now try to tighten the special tool that was already snugged with low-to-medium force. It will probably be easier to turn again for a small distance because you freed up some chain slack, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again. Then repeat - use your thumb again, and press hard again on chain between cams, then release. You will see the deflection of the chain when your thumb is pressing down, but it will probably be less deflection than that first press. Now try to tighten the special tool again - it will probably be easier to turn again, so go ahead and repeat the tightening with the special tool. Snug the cam chain tensioner up with low-to-medium force again. Each time you press on the cam chain with your thumb (and you see deflection in the chain), there is more chain slack remaining that you free up, and then remove by tightening the special tool again. But it will probably only need 2 presses & tightening. By the 3rd press, you may see very little or no deflection when pressing down on the cam chain. When that happens you are done "pumping" the cam chain for slack. But always check one last time to see if the special tool has been tightened "snug" against the cam chain guide with low-to-medium force. If you are more comfortable following the Service Manual, please do. You should always follow the Service Manual. Remove the special tool, and that lets the cam chain tensioner "snap" into auto-tensioning position. Then put the special tool access cap bolt & (new) washer back on the cam chain tensioner, and save your special tool in the toolbox. After the cam chain tensioner "snap" into position, you can REMOVE THE BINDS PLACED ON THE CAMS/CHAINS. Cut off the intake cam zip tie and pull out the exhaust cam vacuum line wedge, and don't let any pieces fall into the motor. Confirming Cam Timing To get this far, you have already confirmed that the cam timing marks are all aligned properly. But let's confirm it again by rotating the engine and bringing it back to the "Cam Rotation Degrees 360" in our crank chart. From the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) turn the crankshaft slowly counter clockwise 2 full turns and at the end of the second turn align the rotor flywheel timing marks again (RED timing mark added for clarity). If you feel any unusual contact or resistance while turning, stop and assess the situation. Now ensure proper position of the cams by checking the view from the "LEFT" side of bike (gear shift side) cylinder #1 cam lobes "FACE EACH OTHER". And now check the cam gear timing marks by checking the view from the "RIGHT" side of bike (foot brake side). If everything looks like the pictures you took before you removed the cams for maintenance, you are done with the CORE VALVE ADJUSTMENT. Now get that naked bike back together and go ride. Enjoy.
  48. 1 point
    Aluminum billet brackets for holding the rear brake reservoir when removing the passenger pegs. With holes, $30. SOLD! without holes, SOLD!
  49. 1 point
    I bought these over a year ago from Amazon. 2 out of the 10 did not work from the start but the two that did worked has been running for a year and no issues. Yorkim 194 LED Bulbs White 6000k Super Bright 5th Generation, T10 LED Bulbs, 168 LED Bulb for Car Interior Dome Map Door Courtesy License Plate Lights W5W 2825, Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/Yorkim-Generation-Interior-Courtesy-10/dp/B00JRE38EA/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Yorkim+194+LED+Bulbs+White+6000k+Super+Bright+5th+Generation%2C+T10+LED+Bulbs%2C+168+LED+Bulb+for+Car+Interior+Dome+Map+Door+Courtesy+License+Plate+Lights+W5W+2825%2C+Pack+of+10&qid=1622857919&s=automotive&sr=1-3
  50. 1 point
    After getting a PM from @FZ07R WaNaB... I figured I would do a lil update... Last few months I have not even attempted to stay current with the forums and whatnot... As for the bike... had 2 small little problems... 1st was an occasional spittle of oil in the exhaust which was solved by a restrictor I had laying around from various turbo car projects... 2nd problem was I had to re-run the oil return line on the clutch side of bike vs the brake side to help keep the drain slope downward... I also run a blend of mixed gas... 1gal of 110 race gas and 4gal of premium pump gas...that gives me like 95/96 oct rating... No videos will be posted or recorded... Will provide pictures when requested... As for how it rides... the bike in general feels much more planted due to extensions on swingarm and aftermarket suspension( suspension is still same settings from 4yrs ago, only backed off the rear shock 1 click)... the power is really really good(could use a +1T front sprocket to put a bit more load on motor to take advantage) cruising down the Highway at 70mph in 6th is like barely "half pound" of boost, but give the throttle a handful, the boost snaps to 3 or more # and away you go... it dont miss a beat anywhere in the power band... in general the turbo bike is faster than my FJ-09 but not top speed wise... Is it worth the upgrade? Heck yea!!! Is it practical for everyone? No... This is probably my last post for awhile...
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