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Showing content with the highest reputation since 09/20/2021 in all areas

  1. 13 points
    I did a track day yesterday at my local track. A rider I know showed up with a New R7,which by the way is a very nice machine. We compared bikes in the pits, looking for differences and trying to determine what components could be interchanged. He was very interested in my Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akrapovic Ti exhaust. This guy is a talented rider and when I was following him, I noticed how much the R7 is a true sportbike. The R7 allows the rider get low on the bike, hang off and tuck in easier. The R7 seat and tail allow for a lot of front to back movement as well. Again they did a nice job. I was wondering how much of a difference there would be between my modified FZ and a stock engined FZ or in this case an R7. In the clip below, you can see me follow him onto the front straight, close in and pass. I knew my bike made more power and pulled longer than it did stock, however this shows a real world difference. Money well spent in my opinion. The R7 will have a Hord Airbox, Hord Tune and Akra Ti VERY soon. My GoPro Adventure - 10/1/21 Shared using GoPro Ed
  2. 7 points
    The Tarmac Faction Yamaha FZ-07 Racing Prototype is for sale! . A unique opportunity to race another class awaits, and there isn’t room in the workshop (or our budget) to do both concurrently at the level we want. With our third streetbike project kicking off this winter and keeping us busy until the next road racing season starts, now is a good time to say goodbye to the FZ-07 RP. . The bike is in MINT condition, clean title, with only a half dozen race weekends on it, never finishing off the podium in a Twins race except once - on its first outing during its shakedown on a track I’ve never been to, with a 5th place finish at Fontana. . . Cliff’s Notes on the bike itself: . - Fully Legal, Certified and Tech’d for MotoAmerica w/ Frame sticker (safety wired, etc) - Motor Build by Gary Dean of Speed Demon Motorcycles (average 92hp on 4 different dynos) - Bored Throttle Bodies by TWF Racing - Web Cams - Liqui Moly 5W-40 Street/Race motor oil (same as used in Moto2 and Moto2) - Samco Custom Radiator Hose set w/clamps - Carbonsmith Custom Velocity Stacks (Short Version) w/ custom MWR race filters - Tarmac Faction Custom MotoAmerica legal Ram Airbox - Tarmac Faction Full Custom Titanium Exhaust by Competition Werkes - Suter Slipper Clutch - Factory Pro Shift Arm w/ceramic bearing - Full electronics suite by Rapid Bike (RapidBike Racing, My Tuning Bike, Shift Assist, and You Tune with Traction control, Launch control, Adjustable Engine Braking and real-time AFR adjustment and monitoring via onboard display/control unit) - Current tune by Eric Dorn of EDR Performance - K-Tech Fully Adjustable Fork Cartridges and Razor RR Rear Shock set up by Lenny Albin - Robem Engineering Adjustable Offset Triples, Rear Suspension Link, Rearset Risers, Chain Guide, Shark Fin with misc. Titanium hardware throughout. - Ohlins Steering Damper on custom mount - Gilles Tooling Rearsets w/ Carbon Heal Guards, GP-LIGHT clip-ons, Chain adjusters w/built in spools, Sprocket Cover, Titanium Axle Nut - EBC VEE Rotors all around, EPFA brake pads up front, HH out back, BF307+ brake fluid - Proti Forged Titanium Rotor Bolts, Sprocket nuts, and misc hardware throughout. - Spiegler custom Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines - Galespeed 17-17 VRC adjustable Master Cylinder and Clutch Perch with Reservoirs - Dymag UP7X Forged Aluminum wheels with Ceramic Bearings - R&G Racing Case covers, Radiator guard, Frame Sliders - Carbonsmith Lever guards - Domino XM2 quick throttle, A450 Road Race Grips - Apex Racing Development Custom Switchgear - Woodcraft keyswitch elimination harness - AIM Sports Solo 2 Lap timer - Custom bodywork: Altus Motorsports Tail and Tank Cover, and Tarmac Faction Upper w/ windscreen and Lower with side panels and custom fairing stay - TechSpec Xline Tank Grips, road race seat - Yamaha UK Radiator side guards . . I may have forgot some items, but that’s the majority of it. . . Bike will come with the following EXTRA items: . - Pit Bull Front and Rear Stands - Spare set of Bodywork – Upper w/Windscreen, Lower, Tail, and Tank Cover - Spare upper with short windscreen - Spare Tarmac Faction Full Custom Titanium Exhaust by Competition Werkes – Black Ceramic Coated - Second set of Dymag wheels ready to bolt on w/Ceramic Bearings, EBC Rotors and Proti Forged Titanium Rotor bolts/sprocket nuts, NEW - Two (2) sets of Capit MAXIMA VISION PRO (Variable temp) Tire Warmers - Capit Wind Stop Covers - Capit Bike Cover - Three (3) sets of Dunlop MotoAmerica Slick Tires with one session each on them - A number of Talon aluminum rear sprockets, 44T, 45T, and 46T, NEW - Second set of Gilles Rearsets , NEW - Spare MWR Race Filters - Carbonsmith custom Velocity stacks, Long Version, NEW - Spare Tarmac Faction Tarmac Faction Custom MotoAmerica legal Ram Airbox, NEW - Spare Gilles footpegs, NEW - Spare Gilles clip-on bars x 4, NEW - Spare Domino XM2 Quick Turn Throttle, NEW - Spare Domino XM2 Grips, NEW - Robem Engineering Underslung rear brake caliper mount w/ Brembo rear caliper, NEW (didn't have time to install it before my first Pro race at Laguna) . . $16,750 or best offer.
  3. 4 points
  4. 4 points
    There are commercial saddle bag supports available for our FZ-07s and MT-07s, but I wanted something simple and clean looking. Here are the ones I made from 1/4" stainless steel rod and some stainless brackets and small parts I fabricated. If you get creative you can probably make something tailored to your bags.
  5. 3 points
    Out here in the country I tend to wave at anyone on 2-wheels if I'm on 2 wheels, and usually get a return wave. This goes as far a when I'm on a bicycle and a guy on a motorcycle comes past the other way, or I'm on a motorcycle and I pass a bicycle rider. I've ridden in more of a city environment when apparently the local custom is for Harley riders to ignore anyone not on a Harley.
  6. 3 points
    Spending time online, especially bike forums, is always entertaining. Someone buys a bike. Then the "mods" start because: The brakes are shet. The brake hoses are shet. The brake pads are shet. The forks are shet. The shock is shet. The headlight is shet. The signals are shet. The exhaust is shet. The ECU is shet. The mirrors are shet. The seat is shet. The bars are shet. The chassis is shet. The levers are shet. Now the pedals are shet! " I love this bike!" No, I don't think you do
  7. 2 points
    I complete agree with this diagnosis. When i first got my MT07, the shifter placement was rather low. I have some big shoes and it was difficult to fully release the shifter between shifts. If the shifter wasnt fully released between shifts, it would act exactly as you described. I have since adjust the shifter placement to a much high position and basically eliminated the issue. Exaggerated toe pointing does help to build that muscle memory of making sure the shifter is released.
  8. 2 points
    Excellent condition Regular oil and filter changes Brakes bled this season Stored indoors No rain rides Asking $6,500 CAD or best offer Extras: 2WDW ECU Flash Akrapovic Ti w/ Carbon tip exhaust CRC RC2 adjustable shorty levers Yoshimura fender eliminator LED headlight LED Auxiliary lights Yamaha Fly Screen Yamaha heated grips Renthal Ultra Low Bar R6 throttle tube CNC mirrors w/ extenders Evotech radiator guard Spaced out instrument gauge by 20mm TST integrated tail light TST MECH-GTR LED front turn signals TST flasher relay Wheel stickers Chinese radiator coolant guard Located in Kemble, Ontario
  9. 2 points
    I dunno. Rossi is retiring. There’s an open seat. Paul is secretive and selling his sweet FZ. You guys figure it out. I’ve drawn my own conclusions Paul, good luck with whatever you have going on. Ed
  10. 2 points
    OK, Paul. Tell us the truth. You just like spending the $$$ on new kit/toys don't you? I've lost track of how many race bikes you've built in the 4 yrs I've been here. LOL Good luck with a quick sale. You always build quality race rigs .
  11. 2 points
    DID was stock chain. Easy way to measure a chain is to understand the system. It's all based on 1/8 inch increments. A 500 series chain ( 520, 525, 530) will measure 5 eights of an inch (5/8") from pin to pin, measuring on center. The last two digits of the number ( 20, 25, 30) tells the width between the plates, or the width of the sprocket tooth. 20= two eighths, 2/8" or a 1/4" 25= is two and a half eighths, or 5/16" 30= is three eighths or 3/8" The pull test Lone Wolf mentioned earlier is the best and most foolproof method for measuring the length of your chain. If using a ruler, 5/8" is .625" in decimal form. So 10 links would be 6.25".
  12. 2 points
    These are the supports that come with SW Motech Blaze / Yamaha OEM sift bags. Not gonna need the anymore and thought someone might be able to use the whip up their own removable supports. The tubular arms don't have to stay on the bike, just the sockets on the peg brackets. $60 shipped. * big toe not included
  13. 2 points
    Euro 5 compliance is like handcuffs on the bitch in jail - while everyone takes their turn with the bitch. Even back in the 1980's emission controls was messing with carburetors (tiny idle jets that would clog - especially anything not started up frequently or put in storage). Fuel injection solved a huge part of the unburnt fuel emissions while maintaining power. But the emission standards keep getting tighter. Right now, motorcycle manufacturers make bikes to comply with Euro 5 - and that bike is sold all over the world. Before that it was Euro 4. Can't blame it on "Euro" because in 1966 California established the first tailpipe emissions standards in America. In recent years, any vehicle sold in USA would be built to comply with the ever-tightening California standard. Manufacturers got tired of making "49 state" vehicles + California. They will however throw some additional garbage on a California motorcycle but it is generally an easy add on for them, like charcoal vapor canister. Not a complete redesign of major engine systems. High performance parts will generally have a disclaimer "off road use only" because it makes the vehicle non-compliant. Even if it didn't hurt emissions, it has altered something on an engine that had passed approval with stock parts.
  14. 2 points
    I play the pessimist: 4 of 10 will kill the power supply of the ecu and start the "search the fuse" game in panic mode 4 of 10 will have the ABS error led lit in the dash permanently 2 of 10 can't find the diagnostic tool coupler
  15. 2 points
    The Kaw actually looks mostly retro, as opposed to the Kimura designed evolution of the XS650... seems the only remaining part that didn't evolve very much was the lollipop tail light - just as obnoxious as the big round one on the stamped steel bracket on the XS650. I cut the lump off the fender, filled it with a scrap of ABS from a Honda bumper cut out and mounted up a retro looking Lucas style brow LED tail light, like all the 60s British bike owners mounted on their bikes. That and about a dozen other changes I wanted. Still working on it to finish out a street tracker homage to the current DT700. Wish it looked more like the DT, but still a hell of a lot of fun to ride and I still look back at it when I get off and like what I see. That 650 could use a longer tail to look better and either a single muffler on each side or a dual set out the right ala Triumph Hurricane. Now that would look really cool! I just wonder if that engine is as entertaining as the MT=07/XSR 700 is. I hope so, but I still have no regrets with my choice.
  16. 2 points
    The Brake light assembly and license plate light are both powered by the same fuse (2014 - 2020, have no document for 2021) In the wiring diagram of the Yamaha service manual it's #8, called Signaling system fuse. I have compared the theory with my real bike, at least there it is correct. You can only blow THIS fuse if there's a voltage on it. If that's the case, then your license plate is lit, the brake light works and the ignition switch is turned on. OR there's already a short circuit in the new cutted and reconnected wiring and the fuse blows as soon as you turn the key. And I think one can easily misinterpret the drawing inside the fuse box, it is also good to compare the given ampere values. If you find sarcasm or irony, it's just by my sloppy English grammar
  17. 2 points
    Went for a quick ride today and all is good so far. Bike tracked perfectly with hands off the bars at 70 mph. The bike feels just as nimble with 7 inches added to the swingarm. I deleted the rear ABS. It was just easier since I needed a longer line. The stock shock is on until the custom valved Penske comes in. Probably another week.
  18. 1 point
    Probably help a lot if location was posted - the country. I kind of doubt they will want to ship international for $5.
  19. 1 point
    I think he's just clarifying that he priced the items according to 1/2 their price new + $5 for shipping to come to his "shipped" price, not that he's adding $5 to the listed shipped price.
  20. 1 point
    2016 FZ07 LWT Superbike Race Package - MotoAmerica Legal 4908 miles - Only ridden to church on Sundays by a slow old guy . Oil and filter changed every 50 - 200 miles (have log). Bike will Come with fresh oil and filter. (TWF) Mild Superbike Build for Reliability Ported Head, Web Cams, Wiseco Pistons, Bored Throttle Bodies, Velocity Stacks (Attack Performance Tuned) Comes with all maps 91 Pump= 82.59 HP - 48.91 TQ VP MGP= 83.73 HP - 49.54 TQ VP T4= 85.45 HP - 50.69 TQ VP MR12= 87.24 - 51.64 TQ Bazzaz Zfi-TC with Quickshifter, TC dial and Map switch (New Bazzaz unit with 2 races) Never used Traction control but its there. Traxxion AK20's Front .95 Penske 8983 Rear Robem Engineering Triple Tree setup with aluminum stem and 26mm offset spaces (2 races) Robem Engineering Rear Linkage (2 Races) - Matt helped tremendously with his time on this setup front and rear and its dialed. I have the geometry numbers. Graves Titanium Full Exhaust Woodcraft Key eliminator Woodcraft Frame sliders Woodcraft Rear Sets Woodcraft Clip Ons Woodcraft Case Savers Woodcraft Shark Fin Woodcraft Lever Protector AP Moto Bodywork AP Moto Fairing Stay AP Moto Adjustable Rear Set Plates MotoAmerica Approved Airbox Shroud (removable for club racing) CRG RC2 Levers Motion Pro Rev2 Throttle Tube Style Fork Mounted damper Galfer Front GP Lines Galfer Pads Cox Radiator Protector Shorai Battery (TWF) Captive wheel spacers Front and Rear (TWF) Regulator Relocate Bracket (TWF) ECU Relocate Bracket Driven Racing Halo Quick Release Fuel Cap Driven Racing 520 16T Front sprocket Driven Racing 520 44T Rear sprocket RK 520 Chain Dunlop Slick Front (1 Race) Ultra Soft 0516 Dunlop Slick Rear (1 Race) Ultra Soft 0197 1.8 Radiator Cap Uni-Filter Pod Filters NGK SILMAR 9B9 Plugs SPARES: Stock motor (ebay) Pair of Wheels OEM blue with Dunlop Extra Soft Rubber with 2 sessions, Straight Rotors, Cush Drive, Sprocket Carrier, Bearings and (TWF) Spacers New In Box Graves Exhaust Can New In Box R&G engine Case Covers (2) Fresh Cleaned and Flow Tested Injectors New In Package Woodcraft Rear Set kit, New Woodcraft Foot pegs (2) New In Box (4) NGK Laser Iridium Plugs SILMAR 9B9, (2) used SILMAR 9B9, (2) used LMAR 8A9 New In Package Woodcraft Frame Sliders New In Box (2) Pair Galfer 1375 pads New In Package HT Moto Seat Pad New In Box Driven Racing 520 Sprockets 44T, 46T, 17T - Used but in good working condition 43T and 45T Bazzaz QS FT-ECU QS Superlite Tek5 520 45T Sprocket Vortex 15T Sprocket OEM 43T sprocket and Sunstar 44T and 45T steel New in Box Oil Filter Windscreen Wire Mesh Velocity Stack Screens New Aftermarket 1.6 Radiator Cap and OEM radiator Cap Radiator in Good working condition (TWF) Crankcase Breather Aluminum Catch Can setup for club racing (TWF) Reg and ECU Relocate brackets Motion Pro Rev2 Throttle Cams New OEM clutch and brake levers Various OEM parts $10,000 Aaron - Located near Fresno, Ca 55 nine - two 0 three -497 six
  21. 1 point
    Very motivated to sell the whole package. Shoot me an offer. $10,000 OBO OR $6500 Bike goes as is NO spares OR its gonna start getting parted out. Ill be racing it next weekend if it doesnt sell first. Still running strong. The mileage has gone up a 1000 miles as ive been racing it this year. Will consider trades for a well setup DTX with cash.
  22. 1 point
    I bought a 2021 Street Triple R this year to add to the collection, did 170 miles today through the Smokey mts. Below our my current bikes.
  23. 1 point
    Lone Wolf is shooting you straight. Your sprockets are fine, don't replace them. There's a myth pervading the internet that chains and sprockets MUST be changed together. It's people not understanding the mechanics of how a chain drive system works that keep pushing this myth. The short version, if you run a chain too long or too tight you will deform the sprockets, then a new chain on those deformed sprockets gets ruined. The caveat is, you first have to run the chain too tight or too long. Your sprockets show zero sign of either. I put 25k miles on my stock sprockets and wore out a chain. Replaced the chain, sprockets still look new. These factory sprockets are very good quality. It's not the first I've seen sprockets outlast chains. It happens a lot. One close friend has a '96 VFR that's well over 60,000 miles now. That bike has gone through three chains, but the original sprockets are still perfectly fine. Steel sprockets last incredibly long. Also, in the interest of saving money, making life easier on yourself and removing a variable...don't let the internet make your afraid of clip style master links. How the myth persists that they are dangerous on street bikes boggles my mind. Again, there are NO mechanical forces trying to pull that side plate off a chain. Anyone that says high horsepower can unclip a chain isn't paying attention. You HAVE to install the clip in the right direction, but that's easy. The reason bikes come stock with endless (riveted) chains is cost. Clips are an extra part that an employee has to assemble. Endless chains can be thrown on in a flash. They're not inherently stronger. IMO, as the internet stranger with nothing to gain, grab you a $60 Firepower chain with a clip and rock on. If can manage to spend a little more, D.I.D. , Regina, RK/EK are known to be quality, but can really drive the cost up. Also, buying a "pre-cut" 108 link chain can cost more than a universal chain that comes in 120 link length ( usually 120, sometimes it varies). You don't need an expensive chain tool to cut a chain. An and grinder ( hand file works just as well) a hammer and a punch are all you need. I'm a stranger on the internet with nothing to gain. I get annoyed seeing people talked in to throwing money at things. If your bike is your baby and you enjoy showering it with gifts, that's perfectly fine. Just don't justify it as a safety concern and urge others to do the same. After decades of wearing out chains on motorcycles, and being a lifelong mechanic, I'll take a clip style master link any day. Or scrub your chain good with Grunge brush and kerosene and see if it loosens up for you. Once they go stuff you often can reverse it. Dried/hardened orings are gonna happen over time, regardless of miles or maintenance. Good luck, and be safe out there
  24. 1 point
  25. 1 point
    The rear looks good IMO. I'll have to take the cover off in the front to check the smaller one. I'll snap pics of both. Thank you
  26. 1 point
    What a joke, the R7 wasn't designed as a true sport bike; they repurposed the MT-07 and added the R6 frontend parts with new plastics. The only thing new they engineered was the side covers that are supposed to stiffen up the frame. Other than that, all they did was take what the typical MT-07 racer was already doing. So, don't kid yourself.
  27. 1 point
    I think I’ll pull the trigger. I just can’t get over the looks of the Corbin. I’ll reach out when it comes down to install if I have any questions. I appreciate the insight!
  28. 1 point
    See if it is stretched. Lot's of good info on youtube about that. If it is not stretched, lube the heck out of it. OEM chains are generally regarded as much shorter lived than aftermarket, even by the same mfgr. OEM chains are part of the cost cutting on new bikes, across the boards. So your original chain with 10k may be near end of life, especially if it wasn't maintained by Prior Owner. No you don't have to cut links for the new chain - reputable suppliers will allow you to specify the length you need. You get what you pay for with chains, cheap ones are cheap for a reason. Get the best you can afford. These people are reputable https://sprocketcenter.com/ They have a page devoted to the MT-07 FZ-07 https://sprocketcenter.com/street-sprocket-applications/yamaha/fz-07-2015-2019.html This video helped me quite a bit with my chain replacements
  29. 1 point
    That's the way it gets around Deals Gap. You see so many riders in the immediate area that you end up stopping the wave thing or you spend all your time waving. But if the other guy waves I really try not to snub him.
  30. 1 point
    Unpopular opinion - I couldn't care less about "The Wave". Sure it's ok if you only see one rider your entire trip but on the weekends going out to the twisty roads it gets old after the 10th time. Maybe I'm stuck up but knowing most people don't even put on 5,000 miles on their bikes in 4-5 years of ownership doesn't make this some cool kids club. /Rant. I don't wave much anymore.
  31. 1 point
    That's an impressive top end pull vs stock! Rock on!
  32. 1 point
    We were both flat out on the straight, we dragged on the straight a few times. During our conversations, the R7 rider said that I would pull away from him every where. He couldn’t close the gap. He is a good rider and was riding faster than me, he passed me several times throughout the day by carrying faster corner speeds. Ed
  33. 1 point
    Sorry for the delayed response haven't been on in a while. You can leave the switch wires unplugged with no adverse results in the bikes operation besides only being able to start the bike while in N, which could pose a problem in traffic and a risk you would have to assess for yourself. Myself, I ultimately ended up wiring the clutch switch to the trigger flash to pass button for the headlights as I never used it anyways. When the clutch switch is installed as factory and the lever is released to engage the clutch, it triggers the ECU to run in a different timing map which is noticed by an increase in idle rpm if you mess with the wires in N. You don't notice this in stock form as you would be adding throttle and moving the bike. If you connect the wires and leave them connected, the bike will run in a pretty much dead timing map which isn't good for the bike. Mine misfired and stuttered like crazy when I did this.
  34. 1 point
    That's correct, it won't cause any problems leaving it unplugged. You'll lose the ability to start the engine in gear with the clutch disengaged. The revs also will not increase slightly when you pull in the clutch lever, which can make it a little easier to stall when taking off, no big deal.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    all is well, no hurt feelings here. just pointing out the effect that tone can have on delivery, as well as how passive aggressive comments tend to beget passive aggressive comments. I really appreciate you worrying about my feelings, though. i had simply stated what my experience was and what it took for me to get it rectified, along with the disclaimer that my memory wasnt to be trusted - which was accurate since i seemed to have misremembered what label confused me. it also provided the opportunity to be corrected in a helpful manner by ElGonzales (who actually provided information and reasoning). why you felt the need to jump in and be antagonistic is beyond me, but im very doubtful it was to "help another member out". im curious which part of "I mean this in the most respectable way possible.... I doubt the labels are "wrong". Good luck-" was intended to be helpful. this helped neither the OP or myself, all it did was serve as a means for you to poke at another user who was genuinely trying to help and had just misremembered what had confused him during the process that OP was having trouble with. my guess is that it was an attempt to flex some imagined 'internet peen', which i would guess is also the reasoning behind letting us know about your mechanical history. how's about we just be decent and move along and stop hijacking this thread so OP can get helped? im fairly petty, so i cannot help myself when people are disrespectful (intentionally or not), rude, antagonistic, or passive aggressive.
  37. 1 point
  38. 1 point
    Not sure what happened in Europe and Asia, but Yamaha recalled the USA 2015 FZ-07’s built within a specific date range because the battery cable could get pinched by the seat and cause a short circuit or fire. I believe there is a way to check online if your bike was fixed, you can google to see how to check. You can also call your local Yamaha dealer to check. If your bike is one of these bikes, you need to take it to a Yamaha dealer so they can replace the parts specified by the recall notice for free. This does not include the battery. Good luck.
  39. 1 point
    You have to change the battery and check the function of the regulator/rectifier left of the fuel tank. The output voltage (you can measure at battery terminals) should not exceed 14.7 V DC while you CAREFULLY rev the engine high (~ 14.0 V at 5000 r/min). Otherwise it will overcharge your battery or even toast your other electronic devices. Stop as soon as you measure more than 15 V. Check also for a possible short circuit of the battery poles. Metal thing beneath your seat or a positive battery terminal touching the metal of the frame...something like that.
  40. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, mercmorrison
  41. 1 point
    Yeah, #1 on top is only the dust seal (the one in the picture is not original Yamaha, that's why it looks different), #2 is the oil seal, located a bit down in the outer tube, secured by a steel clip Only for the people who have never repaired a fork, I know a lot of you have much experience with this stuff. My personal opinion is, as soon as the chrome surface/coating has rust or scratches in the area that touches the oil seal -> scrap @kspjk I also heard/read of this, one reason I took my fork apart at ~28000 km. I think this is the combination of parts which should shred metal: I have found nothing, no real signs of wear or unusual amounts of metal in the oil. The oil was disappointing clear. But that's just one fork of thousands.
  42. 1 point
    Yes, the CRG adapters will work with the stock bars. I've used them before I got the Rhinos.
  43. 1 point
    Maybe so. Or maybe just a Sharpie. I'm going to leave them bare stainless. It matches my soft saddle bag supports.
  44. 1 point
  45. 1 point
    Welcome to the forum, rc.square24
  46. 1 point
    Yes, yes you should spend it. All of it. And on a lot more than just shift levers. We would be happy to be your conscience and guide through the aftermarket. What's our budget? Seriously tho, the shifter is pretty much a proprietary pos. I've never seen good stock conversion parts. Now the after market, licks lips, that's a different animal.
  47. 1 point
    What about it? This bike has been getting it's ass kicked around race tracks for 22 years. It's current shape is an amalgam of all those who shared it's history. Much of it's appeal is it's many mysteries and scars which give it character and create it's story. The previous owner is but a tile in this bikes mosaic as he ran it the way he found it for a year before I got holt of it. I hope to return it to it's once majestic place as arguably the best middleweight sport bike of all time. That engine cover is no longer available from Yamaha (damnit). It looks to be a solid repair but if it gives me trouble I'll pull that cover and weld it up instead of the old trackside J.B. weld repair. This bike and I are going to have another crack at going fast before we end up in the bone pile. And btw I'm calling it dun.
  48. 1 point
    Painted the swingarm with bright red Klass Kote epoxy paint. Came out good for being an amateur painter. The stock caliper bracket is modified for a lower torque rod.
  49. 1 point
    After getting a PM from @FZ07R WaNaB... I figured I would do a lil update... Last few months I have not even attempted to stay current with the forums and whatnot... As for the bike... had 2 small little problems... 1st was an occasional spittle of oil in the exhaust which was solved by a restrictor I had laying around from various turbo car projects... 2nd problem was I had to re-run the oil return line on the clutch side of bike vs the brake side to help keep the drain slope downward... I also run a blend of mixed gas... 1gal of 110 race gas and 4gal of premium pump gas...that gives me like 95/96 oct rating... No videos will be posted or recorded... Will provide pictures when requested... As for how it rides... the bike in general feels much more planted due to extensions on swingarm and aftermarket suspension( suspension is still same settings from 4yrs ago, only backed off the rear shock 1 click)... the power is really really good(could use a +1T front sprocket to put a bit more load on motor to take advantage) cruising down the Highway at 70mph in 6th is like barely "half pound" of boost, but give the throttle a handful, the boost snaps to 3 or more # and away you go... it dont miss a beat anywhere in the power band... in general the turbo bike is faster than my FJ-09 but not top speed wise... Is it worth the upgrade? Heck yea!!! Is it practical for everyone? No... This is probably my last post for awhile...
  50. 1 point
    Never been, but found out about it last year when a NYST buddy attended an event held there by EvolveGT. It's only 1.1 miles and top speeds seem to be no more than 75 mph from videos I have seen. But it seems like fun and priced a bit cheaper than some tracks. NYST is $190. Pittrace is $230. And this track is $150. A video I found of Pineview...
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