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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/23/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Here's the grid for this race, Here's a pic of Brett alongside PR's lovely RC-51. (in case you didn't notice, PR is related to the Yeti)
  2. 3 points
    So life update: Decided not to sell the bike, but not for a lack of trying...for whatever reason people don't want an amazing looking fz in the summer time...WEIRD! But I decided, ya know what, why not. So I paid the registration and hopefully *HOPEFULLY* going to be able to start riding once the dmv decides they want to do something in a timely matter and give me my new stickers in the mail (I decided to just send them the check with the paper instead of wasting a whole day at the dmv). Anyways, my dad and I just installed my ECU flash tune kit and then that became complicated and one of the wires frayed and had to order another pin connector set...but hopefully I can get that in by next week so I can prepare to buy that exhaust i was talking about earlier this year! Can't wait to hit the streets again, going to take it slow and dust off and practice my basics again. Never a bad thing to do to get back into it!
  3. 3 points
    Prepping for my next track day this Friday. I installed a 15 tooth countershaft sprocket today. I’m hoping to get the bike to pull a little stronger on the long straights at NJMP. With stock gearing, 6th just falls on its face. The new sprocket, steel 525, let me move he rear wheel back a little bit. I also decided to check my wheel alignment with the string method. The alignment marks on the swing arm are off. With the adjuster blocks on the the same hash marks on the left and right sides, the rear wheel was off 5/16 of and inch from the front wheel. I got the wheels dead center even with the string method. On the hash marks, it’s off half of the the distance between the larger and smaller hash marks. On the left side I’m exactly in the middle of the 4 th large and small marks. On the right side I’m exactly on the large 4th large hash mark. That little distance on the hash marks makes a larger difference between the wheel center lines. I never felt that the wheels were out of alignment, I’m hoping the better alignment adds to the already great handling. I dimpled a flat on the adjuster nuts, when making future adjustments I’ll make sure to turn them evenly with the dimples facing the same position side to side. I took a few test rides up and down the block to test the new gearing and alignment (also to impress the neighbors ) the gearing didn’t feel like a big change at first, but on the 2nd and 3rd pass, it would hold the front wheel just above the pavement in second gear from about 6000 rpm up. Not sure what the behavior will be on the track yet.
  4. 3 points
    As a LEO, I pulled or helped pull quite a few barely alive/dying/dead people out of vehicles involved in crashes caused by an intoxicated driver while the idiot that caused it is walking around wondering what happened (like the driver in the video trying to start his car). I've pulled from babies up to great-grandmothers bodies out trying to see if we could save them. Sometimes you can, sometimes not. The anger I felt towards the driver was almost blinding. But, somehow, cops manage to not shoot/strangle/beat the pulp out of them right then and there (sometimes by the skin of their teeth with my Irish temper). Then I had the most miserable task in the world, which is to go inform the spouse, parents, etc... that their loved one is dead. More than once I've been to a home where a wife (now widow) and their children were waiting supper for Daddy to come home and eat. The food is staying warm in the kitchen, the table is set for what is now one to many. The wife somehow always knows something is up when she opens the door, you can see it on her face. Want to see a cop's tears? Talk to him after one of these calls. I'd rather have done just about anything than that part of the job. If you go out drinking, have fun. Nothing wrong with that. But if you or anyone else thinks that maybe you should call for a ride, then CALL FOR A RIDE or stay where you're at if possible. A $50.00 charge for a ride is exponentially less than a DWI or Intoxicated Manslaughter charge (and the civil suits and guilt that can go along with them). Call a taxi service, a lot of companies drive drunks home at no charge if they cannot pay. A few police departments and sheriff's offices have programs to get drunks home safely (there just has to be a responsible, sober party there to take charge of them when they get home). Be a kid while the party's going on, but be a grownup when the party's over. Please, be responsible when you drink.
  5. 2 points
    This years crew, Some of the many bugs that sacrificed their lives to the speed gods, And the overall winners burnout in the background... See you soon in the off season upgrade section of your local supermarket!
  6. 2 points
    I realize that was almost a non answer but understand for simple track use you can go pretty dern fast and it'll handle pretty well and you'll be happy as a clam in bone stock form. Add a shock and fork upgrade and you're next level. Add a link and a whatever and you're at level 3, and so on and so forth. All fun but you will run into limitations as you gain pace. The big difference shows up when you go from an enjoyable trackday romp (which can be fast as hell for some) to and intense red mist race pace where I'm gonna impose my will on you and my machine whether you like it or not. When you go to the last 2% of available performance and beat that 2% like a red headed step child all those little changes and upgrades add up to a measurable advantage. When I require my bike to do something like tighten a line in traffiç at apex by 1 foot under brakes then that's what I need. That never happens at a trackday. 2 bike lengths in a trackday means squat. 2 bike lengths in a race can mean 4th instead of 1st place. It's just a matter of what you're trying to accomplish or what your expectation of fun is. At a trackday I take what's available and have fun. In a race I make what's available to have fun. It's kind of a sliding scale.
  7. 2 points
    Nice, can I ride it? Say no or it'll get wrecked, lol. Welcome aboard!
  8. 2 points
    Didn’t realize there were as many FZ guys in this area. I’m about 2hrs from NYST ( up by CA border ) I haven’t made it there yet but stripping the FZ for 100% track duty In a couple months and plan to spend a lot of time there next year.
  9. 2 points
    Thanks for the more in depth info. I had kinda assumed something along that lines seeing as it looks like he can really be down on speed sometimes compared to the FZ's. Would be interested in hearing his thoughts sometime later after he's ridden the fz a lot more. Also while writing this I just found this little article on it. https://motoamerica.com/2019/09/dualing-twins-parrish-chooses-tuning-forks-for-new-jersey/
  10. 2 points
    Agreed, it's very sad if you've lost someone that way but even so, you can't lose sight of the fact that everyone is human and makes those same mistakes or similar ones like forgetting to use a turn signal, forgetting to turn on your headlights when it's getting dark, etc, etc. I'm just saying we should be more forgiving when we see others being human, nothing more.
  11. 2 points
    I used to think I had to shrink my over sized safety margins to get faster and push the envelope. Then I had a race coach tell me once that there's nothing wrong with large safety margins. He said you develop your skills, get faster and take your margins with you as you progress. Everyone has different margins, some nonexistant, some enormous.
  12. 2 points
    Personally, I didn't think the difference was severe, really. There was a "noticeable change" and it felt a little better, a little crisper and a little more precise but not once did I feel like it was something that required getting used. I really didn't notice much difference, nothing to be scared of anyway. After I installed mine I got right on it and rode like nothing had been done to it. In my experience a new bulb made the biggest difference to my bike.
  13. 2 points
    Scooters were made for women so they didn't have to spread there legs to ride. Plus the way you are seated on one resembles sitting on the toilet.
  14. 2 points
    That's the smallest/easiest to learn on. Rupp wins! (who knew?! lol)
  15. 2 points
    Finally! Gilles and Galespeed showed up today. Now I just need to find some time to get the build started! - Paul
  16. 2 points
    I have the snail carbon Akra. I love it. Db killer AND cyl cat in. The system was designed to this config and should have almost zero loss of power that way. I have seen dyno charts showing an INCREASE in HP with the Db killer in, though tiny difference. Akra uses an open cell design ( 100CpSqI), that is at the reflection point, so does not disrupt the waves badly. They actually have been quoted as saying they can't see why OEM cats flow so badly, as theirs works well and for longer. It is a real working cat not a pretend. Only detrimental effect is at FULL throttle, at full flow, which doesn't happen often.
  17. 2 points
    Thank you! Gives me something to do during the winter standstill.
  18. 1 point
    155 is really moving--nice.
  19. 1 point
    The link does some things, other things it doesn't do. Seriously tho, it adds more angle to the rear swingarm which makes it accelerate better by limiting squat under power, aka better drive/less front wheel lift. To a lesser degree it also makes the suspension linkage ratio closer to linear. It also raises ride height. Is it necessary? Not absolutely, but many folks like it. You can go fast w/o it certainly. Moving the forks up or down puts more or less weight on the front wheel and can sharpen steering and side to side transitions. Is it necessary? Not absolutely but some folks do it. It depends on a lot of factors like riding style, speed, track shape and surface make up, etc. All suspension changes can/will have positive and negative effects. Only you can determine if one outweighs the other for your purposes. Having said all this, generally a little more rear ride height (swinger angle) and a little more weight on the front wheel is a good place to start when converting this great street bike into a more track orientated machine. Hope this helps
  20. 1 point
    You have to create an account on powercommander.com and then you can download the fuel maps. Choose one that is a close as possible to your intake/exhaust setup. Load it up with FTECU and that's it and that's all. Watch the jakethegardensnake install video on Youtube if you haven't already.
  21. 1 point
    I tend to store anything with old, full fluids in the winter then add fresh stuff in the spring. Just do an oil change before you bring it out of storage. That being said, oil changes don't get simpler than they do with this bike, especially compared to cars. If it keeps you up at night, just change it. No sense in changing the filter either way though.
  22. 1 point
    Yes I have read this thread top to bottom. It is believed that the eco mode has an afr offset separate of the closed loop within the ecu. I highly doubt this is the case, as this would lead to a sick amount of surge going in and out of eco mode. Catfish tested setting bias map in FTecu to zero and it ran bad at part throttle, I believe this is due to the map bias within FTecu not being the complete bias settings, shown below. Shown here is the biasing percentage calculations. The bias table Catfish changed in FTecu software is only the "Afr Factor Alpha N" in the menu above and is identical between both software. So I thought maybe the eco light is just showing that the bike is running partially off speed density, this is not the case either. I just tested disabling bias (forcing to run only alpha N) by setting above table to 2.3 as shown, note: any value entered here higher than 2.3 up to about 47 returns a value of 2.3. Result: A - Running the bike on alpha n (tps vs rpm) only makes it run like complete garbage and wouldn't even idle. B - Managed to ride it around block and eco mode still pops up. Unless there is some voodoo magic going on, I think there is a separate function within the ecu to serve no purpose other than to just light up that eco mode indicator. EDIT: Quick note, closed loop was disabled and never turned on as I can view this monitor while riding via the PV3.
  23. 1 point
    Congrats! Bike looks great. I debated on the red or not. I got a 2019 as well in blue. As for the backpack or tailbag I would say that a rack would be best. The tail bags available for the 2018+ don't look to great (in my opinion) and a backpack is very limited and uncomfortable and freedom limiting. I would look into getting the SW Motech Street Rack, soft luggage adapter, & some Rok straps. With this combo you can fit a ton of luggage on the back and it also looks great when carrying nothing. I posted pics here:
  24. 1 point
    The "fall" season??? Oh, no. Thank goodness we call it autumn........!
  25. 1 point
    Welcome and congrats on a beautiful bike! If I only had one thing to say to a new rider it would be to pretend all vehicles are out to ruin your day so stay well away from them as much as possible and stay frosty. (Ok, two things )
  26. 1 point
    I believe so unless you've got a slipper clutch , which the OEM clutch is not, most likely in this scenario.
  27. 1 point
    Just send her flowers while your at work, should keep her distracted from your bike for at least another month, cheap insurance until ,at least my wife anyway, gets caught up in christmas!!!!
  28. 1 point
    So just a heads up. If your phone has an Optical Image Stabilization system in it (OIS, google it and your phone model), you'll fry your camera by running it on your bike with a grip like this. The micro vibrations knock the motors out of calibration and your camera either wont focus or will perpetually try to focus resulting in weird wavy images.
  29. 1 point
    OMG - FINALLY got around to doing this. But thanks again @JayMT07! It took a minute to get the piece to fit, but I got it. Got the red tab to match the rest of the red accents on the bike :) bio
  30. 1 point
    So I stuck my noise into my LBS, and there sitting on the showroom floor was a damn near new 2009 Yamaha FZ6. I've been looking for this bike for a long time. It's the model with the half-fairing (not the R model) in that most awesome darkish blue paint job. It came from an older one owner who took great care of it (it really looked new), and only put on about 1900 miles. I bought my FZ-07 there, so they gave me a really good price. After my test ride, I said Hell Yeah! The difference between the FZ6 and FZ-07 is pretty huge. The FZ6 is 70 lbs heavier wet, has a longer wheelbase and a higher center of gravity. It has 98 hp with 47 lbs of torque with it all coming on at around 10,000 rpm. The suspension is absolutely better and that is with me having a Bitubo shock and upgraded fork springs and oil on my FZ-07. I've done 500 miles +/day on my FZ-07 several times, and it was fine. I do believe that it would be awesome on the FZ6 as it begs to go long distance. Having said that, it doesn't have the hooligan quotient of the FZ-07, not even close. That is unless I'm somewhere above 10,000 rpm. The FZ6 does pull well enough without being in the powerband though, plus it revs so smoothly (those darn 4 cylinders)! It doesn't turn as quickly and is not as flickable which I'm sure has to do something with the 70 lb. weight difference and the longer wheelbase. I think the combo could be a very good thing, as I can use the FZ6 as more of a tourer, and the FZ-07 as the hell raiser. Which has me thinking that the Hord airbox with the Yoshi might be happening this winter. Time to go play on the new toy
  31. 1 point
    Gonna just give you a warning since you wrote it, but we do prefer if you're gonna share a how-to that it be on the site itself so we may sticky it for others to find easier Otherwise, nice write-up dude
  32. 1 point

    From the album: 19 MT07 Ice Flou

    WOMET Tech levers
  33. 1 point
    Pics below of the FZ09, DRZ, and MT09. I should have my Yamaha rack today as well as some KX high bend bars for the MT. Eventually I will probably get the same Yamaha top box as I had on the 09. The 09 pic is the morning after completing my SaddleSore 1000 run from NY to SC, 1078 miles in 22 consecutive hours. I left Massena NY at 5 am and made it to Greenville SC at 3am the next day, no naps, just steady cruising.
  34. 1 point
    Nice looking , CLEAN bike.... GLWS!!! Should sell fast-
  35. 1 point
    I really doubt the dealer had it flashed but I guess it’s possible.
  36. 1 point
    My new Gulf livery on my 2017 Fz07. Just passed 10,000 miles and figured that it was time for a change. For this being my very first wrap, I was very excited about how it came out. I would be glad to hear any questions or comments. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views. Imgur Post with 0 votes and 2 views.
  37. 1 point
    If it becomes a problem I will probably just have the stock one modified with foam or gel.
  38. 1 point
    Sara's awesome and my wife
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    Me too and makes feel a lot younger than I am when riding. Great bike
  41. 1 point
    They are a pretty good all-rounder on the street for different weather conditions, but not at all up to high temperature track riding.
  42. 1 point
    Keep you hand on the clutch It will be a bumpy ride, but if you even think your losing control Pull in the clutch about halfway, this will give you that little bit of time to regain control
  43. 1 point
    Welcome @KayDee! @sorkyah and I go way back LOL. I'm 5'3" and my wife is 5'2" so I understand the difficulties of finding a bike that you're comfortable with. We started off with a CBR250R because I too fell in love with the look, and it was small enough that I didn't feel I couldn't deal with it on my own (aka picking it up if I dropped it and no one was around). I put 20K miles on in the my first year of riding, as I commuted 100 miles/day for work. My wife followed the year later and put 10K in 6 months after I purchased the FZ. I too struggled with getting a motorcycle because my father got in an accident when I was young. I was too naive to understand it at the time, as my urge to ride wasn't detered by it, but my mother wasn't too happy that I still wanted to take it up. Sorry, I'm not trying to give you my whole life story here - but I think you're on the right track. Ask questions, take classes, and never stop learning. I know a few other female riders, so let me know if we can help! I'm not on here often, so if you want to hit me up on IG, please do! @meekmoves
  44. 1 point
    Welcome and a pre congrats on whatever bike you choose. I'll say this about the R3, before I bought my FZ-07 the R3 was the bike I truly desired for various reasons but they didn't have it in stock in my area and I was told I would have to wait for months before they got one. I had to have a bike like right now so I bought my white FZ that same day instead, it was my 2nd choice for a bike. I haven't had any regrets either and it's the one time I'm glad I didn't go with what my heart desired. Looking back I think I wouldn't have liked all the high revving buzzzziness of an R3 when just cruising around and having to wind it close to redline to feel any power from it. All this is to say that test riding other bikes, such as the Honda CB 500 that @gregjet mentioned, might make you see/feel something in another bike that you didn't before and help you to make a more educated purchase. It's always good to listen to the heart but just remember, the heart doesn't know bikes, the rump does. If you don't understand that I'm sure your bf will explain it to you. GL with whatever you decide to buy.
  45. 1 point
    Adjustment Before beginning, your engine should be stone cold and in the service position with all marks aligned as detailed above. Recheck your valve clearances and be sure your measurements are correct. Annotate your findings as detailed above. Draw out a diagram of all eight valves separated by piston side and exhaust/intake side, and left/right side. Yamaha's suggestion is below (1). Calculate the hypothetical shim adjustment value. We will add this to the actual shim that's under the bucket to get the new shim size. An example is in the diagram above. Measured shim value - desired clearance = hypothetical shim adjustment Now we have to remove the cam chain tensioner, the cam chain, the camshafts, the valve lifters and shims, measure the shims, and replace the shims with the new correct shims. Begin by using a zip tie or mechanic's wire to secure the cam chain to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase (1). Remove the cam chain tensioner next. Begin by removing the cover bolt on the cam chain tensioner (1). Then insert a 3mm hex key and begin twisting counter clockwise until it can't be turned anymore (2). This will retract the cam chain tensioner back into itself so that it relieves pressure applied to the cam chain. The hex key stays in the tensioner during this process. If it is removed, the tensioner will immediately SNAP back out, so keep the hex key in place! You might need a trimmed or short key to accomplish this (see the thread linked above), because the airbox will be in your way as you try to unfasten the 2 hex bolts that hold the tensioner onto the block, so you have to use a hex key instead of a ratchet + socket. But then the arm of the hex key can't reach over the inserted 3mm hex key unless the 3mm is trimmed down. Also, even when wound back completely, the tensioner will still be in contact with the chain, pressing back on the tensioner. That means as you remove the bolts, they may be under some tension. Take your time and don't force anything. Once you have the tensioner off the block, rest it gently on something soft and use a careful touch with the gasket if you plan on reusing it. REMINDER do NOT move the crankshaft now that the cam chain tensioner has been removed. If you do, the cam chain will skip teeth, moving the crankshaft out of time from the valve train. Mark the chain pins and sprocket teeth with corresponding witness marks (1, 2). Double check all 3 timing marks before you do this. This will be your target when reassembling. Begin removing the cam caps (1). Start with the intake cap, then the exhaust cap. Remove the bolts in a crisscross order working from the outside inwards. Crack the bolt loose then move on to the next diagonally. Then return to the first side and crack that one loose, go diagonally to the other side, then crack the middle bolt on the opposite side from where you started, then get the last one. I removed the bolts evenly, about 1/2 turn at a time for each bolt following that pattern. I'm not sure if that level of detail is necessary, but I can say you definitely need to be even removing the bolts. You want to avoid the cap bending at all. A bent cap will apply uneven pressure to the camshaft journals and ruin the camshaft and thus the engine. Remove the cam chain from the sprockets - make sure it is fastened to the frame so it doesn't fall into the crankcase! Then remove the camshafts and put them on something soft (1, 2). Now the valve lifters are exposed (1). Stuff a rag into the cam chain area to avoid anything falling into the crankcase (2). Identify the valve shims that need to be replaced. Work one valve at a time to avoid messing up which shim came from where. Pull the valve lifter and valve shim out with an extendable magnet (3). It should capture both the lifter and the shim. Be very, very careful that the shim does not fall into the engine - plug everything up! Working one valve at a time, take out the shim from the follower. The shims probably have the measurement laser etched into them, but you should still check with your calipers (1). Record the measurement of the existing shim into your diagram from earlier. Now that you've measured the existing incorrectly sized shim, calculate the new shim size (1,2). Add the hypothetical shim adjustment value calculated before to the measured shim size to get the correct shim size. Round it if necessary to get a size you actually have using the table below or your own judgement. When making this adjustment, bear in mind that you should be adjusting to the higher (looser) end of the specification range. The valve train will wear over time and make the clearance smaller and smaller until you need to do this again. Do yourself a favor and don't adjust the valve clearance to the smaller (tighter) end of the specification. (Measured clearance - Desired clearance) + Installed shim size = new shim size Coat the new valve shim with assembly lube (1) - the red stuff, technically speaking molybdenum disulfide based lubricant. Install the shim in the depression on the valve making absolutely sure the shim is in place square, not crooked (2). You'll feel it click into place. Coat the valve lifter ("bucket") with engine oil and replace over the shim you just installed. Then move on to the next valve that needs attention, repeating the process you just followed. When you're done replacing the valve shims, it's time to replace the camshafts, cam caps, cam chain, and cam chain tensioner. Then you'll check your work by rotating the engine, rechecking the clearances, and if you're satisfied, button it all back up. Start that process by placing the camshafts back where you found them. Begin with the exhaust camshaft (1). Put the timing mark parallel with the cylinder head again. Grab the chain and drape it over the sprocket, matching the witness marks you made on the chain pin and tooth. Two things are important here: 1. You need to make sure the chain is as tight as possible on the exhaust side while draping the chain over the exhaust camshaft sprocket; and 2. do not pull the chain hard enough to move the crankshaft! These are competing goals, so take your time here and be sure the marks all line up. Remember that the cam chain tensioner can only apply tension on one side (the intake side) of the cam chain, so that's why we are pulling the exhaust side tight without moving the crankshaft. Coat the camshaft cap journals and the camshaft journals with assembly lube (1,2 - ignore that the intake cam is in place in this photo!). Coat the cap bolts in engine oil. Replace the exhaust camshaft cap, pressing gently until the cap snaps into place. Be very careful placing the bolts into their holes, taking care not to drop them into the crankcase! Tighten the camshaft cap from the inside out (the opposite of when we removed it), tightening in stages so that it is evenly applied. Be sure your witness marks are aligned! It is very important that the caps are torqued evenly and properly. I finger-tightened them 1/2 turn at a time following the crisscross pattern described in the last post until they were all finger-tight. Then I got the 1/4" torque wrench and continued turning each 1/2 turn until they were all torqued properly. The mistake to be made here is unevenly tightening the caps and warping them slightly. My intake cap was actually slightly warped from the factory, but I compensated by tightening the lifted side an extra full turn before resuming the gradual 1/2 turn process. The cap bolts for both sides are to be torqued to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Install the intake camshaft, aligning the markings with the cylinder head edge (1). Again drape the chain over top of the sprocket, aligning your witness marks. Zip tie the chain to the intake sprocket by putting a tie through the holes in the sprocket. This is to ensure the chain doesn't skip as the intake cap and cam chain tensioner are being installed. Do not forget to cut these off when you're done, and when you do, do not let the tie fall into the crankcase! Replace the cam chain tensioner. It should still have the hex key inserted all the way, retracting the tensioner into itself. If it isn't retract it now by inserting a trimmed-down 3mm hex key and turning it counter clockwise until it stops (1). Make sure the gasket is attached with the protruding tab facing upwards and insert it into the block. Replace the 5mm hex bolts and begin tightening them down while the key is still inserted into the tensioner. Tighten them both to 10Nm or 7.2lbft. When you're certain the cap bolts are all torqued properly and that the alignment marks and witness marks are all aligned, go ahead and pull the hex key out. This will snap the actuator forward, tensioning the chain. This is what the zip ties were for. Once it's snapped out, cut the zip ties around the sprockets while holding the tie so they don't fall into the engine. Hopefully your chain didn't skip any teeth. Now that the camshafts are installed, the camshaft caps are installed, the cam chain tensioner is installed, and all of the marks are aligned, we can rotate the engine counter clockwise again. Turn it over maybe 5 times to spread the assembly lube and seat all of the parts. Now remeasure your clearances using the steps you followed earlier. The clearances should be as you calculated them unless you made a mistake measuring the first time. If something is wrong, now is the time to disassemble and make it right. If the clearances are as expected, turn the engine over a few more times until you're satisfied, and replace everything you removed. When replacing the valve cover, having all of the wiring zip tied up to the frame really helps. I had to dab some grease into the channel molded into the valve cover to get the gasket to stay put in the cover while finagling the cover over the head again. If you do this, apply it sparingly and wipe off any excess that smushes out of the sides. You should use gasket sealer to do this but I didn't want the rubber to stick permanently. To be clear, do not put any sealant between the rubber gasket and the cylinder head! That interface should be bone dry and clean. You'll have to push in one end of the cover, then pivot up the other end of the cover up and over the camshaft caps. The crankcase breather hose connection is a real bitch because it interferes with the useless long bolts on the ECU tray above the engine. Wear some gloves. When it's time to tighten the valve cover, tighten in stages to 10Nm or 7.2 lbft. Reinstall the crankshaft end cover making sure the rubber O-ring is clean (10Nm or 7.2lbft), and the timing mark access bolt (15Nm or 11lbft). Install the cam chain cover bolt (7Nm or 5.1lbft). Replace everything else you took off. Remember to twist your gas tank back the way it came, and don't forget to plug in the fuel pump, the air sensor (the plug on the front of the gas tank), the fan motor, and the ignition coils back to their original places. You just saved a few hundred bucks, and more importantly, you've earned your man card. Have a beer (or 4) to celebrate!
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    plastic bags of old Kimchi are my missile of choice.
  48. 1 point
    There are also some pictures in the service manual, I think, so try and get that.
  49. 1 point
    Thought we'd covered this before but that's how it is with the oil. My bike came from the dealership that way and it ran fine and never hurt a thing. The window just isn't accurate is all. I put exactly 2.75 quarts in mine every time, bike completely vertical and it's the same with the window every time, looks over filled but it's not so don't sweat it. Carry on.
  50. 0 points
    Collided with another bike in turn 3 and had had a huge tank slapper in the Lightweight Superbike race. Both stayed up but during my flailing duck paddle save my footpeg buggered up the zipper on my boot which had to be cut off. Oh well, I get to shop for a new pair of boots.
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