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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/21/2021 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    Hi All, I am fairly new to the forum, been around on the T700 one and I thought I join this one as well as there is a lot of things to learn from people who have used the cp2 engine for years now. My bike is a 2019 tenere 700, which I've converted to a supermoto since 2k miles and have been riding and improving the bike since then... Most fun I've had on two wheels to be fair and I don't plant on selling but keep looking of ways to improve the bike.... Wheels : Excel Takasaga 5.0 and 3.0 inch with 160 60 and 120 70 tyres.... Front mt10 mudguard, front mt07 sprocket, I can't remember the size... Suspension : front and back upgraded springs. Brakes : stock for now... I am waiting for the Beringer calliper to arrive any day now, it has been 5 weeks... All the other parts to convert a single disc have been purchased. And I will do an abs pump bypass as well. Engine is stock apart from the end can and this is where I will be starting to look at once the brakes are fitted and I'm happy with them. Looking to do some intake mods thanks to @AP996 for his help into guiding me towards his solution for the intake. Once the engine breads better and the tuning has been done with software I will get some cams and headers. Plan for the engine is to have a healthy power band and around 80 85hp to the wheel. Things I have added that make the bike nicer to ride : 1 finger clutch from camel adv, healtech quickshifter which is addictive and makes so much sense coming out of turns... Different levers, rally seat for 910mm height.. Heated grips, shorter Sport screen... For me this bike is perfect as I am very tall 196cm and long legs so there isn't a lot of options out there that can be as comfortable and as nimble as the t7. Would like to reduce the weight of the bike to 180kg wet but that is a long term goal and it should be achievable with some nice titanium mods, battery and abs pump removal once a module comes a long like on the r6 or r1. I'll let the pictures do the talking. Aleks
  2. 10 points
    Going to NJMP tomorrow for the first track day of the year. Any of you Hosers going? Can't wait to feel the new Hord Airbox and Tune. Ed
  3. 10 points
    Things went great yesterday. The weather held out, mid 70s and sunny. They over $300k in track repairs over the winter. Fixed cracks, patched bad sections and most importantly fixed drainage issues. They also paved the parking areas (used to be grass/dirt/mud) so parking and set up was good. It was a light day for the first event. Instead of 4 15-minute session, they gave us 3 20-minute sessions by combining the 2 fastest groups. So 8 run sessions for the day. The track improvements were noticeable. Completely dry and no rough sections. Grip on the new patches was good. I had set up my sag settings with my new Slacker Tool. I also played with compression settings, went a little softer front and rear. The bike felt good and rear tire pattern looked good and consistent across the rear tire. The Q4's felt great too. The new Hord Airbox and Tune were noticeable, especially on the long main straight, the engine just kept pulling. There is a noticeable intake growl above half throttle. That combined with the Akra Ti sounds great. I rode well and felt good for the first event after the winter layover. My son rode well on his SV 650. Making noticeable improvements with body position and the right line. He spent the afternoon working with a coach and had a really good day too. At lunch, a rider with a very well set up 3rd gen SV 650 came over to talk to me. He asked what was done to my FZ. I thought this seemed odd, because he had a well set up SV and all of the mods on my FZ are visible and obvious. Then he said no, what did you do internally to the engine, I said nothing and he looked more puzzled. He said that he could get right up to my rear wheel in the tight areas, but I would walk him on every straight. He said his SV was dynoed at 74 RWP. He asked what mine was. My bike has never been dynoed, so I said" I dunno, more than 74?" He just seemed puzzled that my bike appeared to be that much faster. It made me feel good about my set up and helped validate my butt dyno results. The rider was a cool guy, we made friends and talked quite a bit. Got to ride with my 75 year old track buddy and made a few new friends. All in all a good day. Ed
  4. 8 points
    My son 796 on his SV And the rider with the blue and yellow 3rd gen SV behind me.
  5. 7 points
    I finished the bellcrank bracket. I have a Penske double adjustable on order. It will be valved for street/strip use. Penske and M2 shocks are the two big names in drag racing. M2 is mostly drag racing and while assembled in the U.S., uses Nitron parts. So they are "Nitron" drag shocks, pretty cool. I went with Penske simply because they are familiar with XSR700 packaging. M2 mostly does the popular drag bikes.
  6. 6 points
    Kudos to our friend @D.A. who continues recovery from nasty high side practicing knee dragging, he modified his existing vacuum lines on an MT-07 and I'm just repeating his success. This mod will build an entirely new vacuum setup for XSR700 / MT-07 instead of modifying the existing parts, so you can keep the OEM parts for a backup or a dog chew toy or whatever. Working this mod I was throwing "check engine" light, suspected vacuum leaks but unfortunately it simply is the Yamaha sensor begins to behave abnormally if the vacuum lines are modified too long. Air pressure sensor starts sending unexpected responses to ECU during engine braking/closed throttle decel, flashes the "check engine" light for a second or so around 3K rpms. If you're thinking to extend the lines all the way to under your seat, best give it up. So this mod is as all mods should be, simple, mildly invasive, and delivers a "plug and play" hookup to synchronize the throttle bodies with a manometer (like CarbTune). Nothing has to be perfect, but it does have to be correct. To see how @D.A. did it modifying the existing vacuum line, read this thread. Read what he did, check what I did, and then just do it your way, it will work out. Disclaimer - Like all my mods, this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus, and you don't want that Why this mod? - You would not ask, if you have tried to synch your throttle bodies (hookup CarbTune or other manometer). Stock vacuum lines are tough to get at. Best to just make easy access vacuum lines with rubber caps - so you can pull the caps off and slip on your manometer lines and get those throttle bodies in synch without removing the fuel tank or turning sideways, backwards, upside down, or whatever is in the book. Parts for this mod HPS vacuum hose 3.5mm here Vacuum hose clamps 8mm here Straight barbs 4mm here Tee barbs 4mm here Wire spring hose clamps here Bung caps 4mm here MotionPropilot screwdriver here small wire ties (cable ties) 3/8" (or similar) thin wall automotive rubber hose (to make a heat protective jacket around new vacuum line) Get the bike ready for the mod (XSR700) Remove the side covers and the side cover "backing plates". Also to get some room to remove the old vacuum line and plug in the new vacuum line part we build, disconnect the acceleration throttle cable at the throttle body. It will give your fingers some room to get in there on Intake #1 (left side of the bike). Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #1 We will replace Yamaha's vacuum hose that runs from the air pressure sensor (above cylinder #1 valve cover) to the throttle body #1 manifold nipple (left side of bike). Here's the part we will build It's all made from the hps vacuum hose. Vacuum hose clamps are used to connect assembly to the air pressure sensor at the top of pic, and to the throttle body nipple at the bottom of pic. The "Tee" is our modification, that let's us add a new line for connecting throttle body synchronization tool to Intake #1. Note the "Tee" uses small wire ties (cable ties), because they tell the mechanic to "leave this connection alone!". We provide clamps where technicians can connect/disconnect, but we don't want anyone to disassemble our mod. Add a heat jacket Take a piece of 3/8" thin walled rubber hose, cut it 90mm length, then slit it all the way so you can open it up like a jacket and wrap it around the hps vacuum setup That's enough to protect hps from cylinder heat, hps doesn't really need it but let's do this the correct way. If the jacket is loose, you can put a zip tie around the whole thing just under the "Tee", and don't make it tight - you don't want to restrict the hps vacuum line inside in any way. You are ready to install just as it appears in the pic, the top plugs into the air pressure sensor, the bottom into intake #1 manifold nipple, and once installed you will see the easy access tube is sitting nicely hidden behind your side cover so nobody will jerk with it, but you know it's there when you need it. To remove the OEM vacuum hose, and to install the new part, use some needle nose pliers, but be kind to your product, don't do any damage to your part or the bike nipple and sensor when you plug it all together. Here is what it looks like once installed, (the side cover (and backing plate) were removed to do the install of the vacuum hose). The hose is nicely waiting for you to remove the bung cap, and plug into your manometer. And once you put the side cover and backing plate on, nobody will know it's there and mess with your bike. Next step, build a new vacuum hose for Intake #2 (right side of bike), and it's just a simple line with a bung cap on the end. Building the new vacuum hose for Intake #2 Let's work cylinder #2 on the right side of bike, and build a line to give it the same kind of easy access. Just follow the pic below Ya, that was tough work, I know. This is all you need for #2 intake vacuum hose. On the #2 intake manifold there is a nipple just like the nipple on #1 intake, only it just has a simple blanking cap and wire clamp closing it off. Remove that stock OEM blanking cap from the #2 intake manifold and plug your new 160 mm hps hose (you built from the pic above) into the manifold nipple (it's tough, tight to get in there, but you only have to do this once, that's the whole point of this mod). Bring the other end of the new vacuum line with the bung for connecting synchronizing tools up and out where the right side cover will hide it from folks you don't want messing with it. Very easy to just tuck up under the side cover mounting bracket. This right side vacuum hose is 160mm for a reason - that's the length of the vacuum draw on the Intake #1 hose, we want the lengths to be essentially the same. That's it. Now let's test our manometer to see if it is accurate, and then hook it up to synchronize throttle bodies. Build a test loop for manometer Assemble the loop you see below We use this setup to connect the single line at top to the Intake #2 easy access bung, and then the "two" lines below can be connected to two of your manometer tubes. If the manometer is accurate, the two tubes will have the exact same reading when you start the bike for a test. Go ahead and plug it into the bike Intake #2 easy access and to your manometer (I have a CarbTune shown below). Start your bike and you can check the manometer, are the readings the same? They better be, because both the manometer tubes are connected to a single vacuum source, our Intake #2 easy access bung. If your manometer is good, you are ready to check if the throttle bodies are in synch. From here on in, just follow the instructions on your manometer for how to set it up. You have an easy access vacuum bung on each side of the bike for Intake #1 and Intake #2. Here is my CarbTune hooked up to both intakes and a synch test underway And that's why we do this stuff. To make it easy, to check and know that the bike is correct, not perfect, but correct. If you have to adjust, MotionPro has a 110 degree "air/pilot screw driver" that makes it real easy to adjust Intake #2 to match #1. No removing the gas tank, we made this too easy. Remember this, we always adjust Intake #2 to match Intake #1 (don't mess/change Intake #1 for synching). Changing the idle rpms on the bike is a different banana. All for now, I will update if anybody needs more details of what we are about on this mod.
  7. 6 points
    Not sure what your budget is, but you should consider the Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit. I did the Racetech emulator route a few years ago. They make a decent product, but don't really support it much. Racetech sells you a bunch of generic parts, and then they give you a "baseline" to start from. They give you a "one-time access code" to set it up, after that- your kind of on your own. I was reasonably happy with my Racetech set set up, but I recently upgraded the Traxxion Dynamics AR-25 kit. I could tell right away, it was a much better set-up (in terms of quality parts)... I haven't hit the track with it yet, but I'm VERY optimistic!!! Also, You can lower the front end 10mm, without upsetting the chassis. I did mine, and I've taken corners @ 130 mph on-track, and never upset the high speed stability- EVER.... As far as Dave Moss tuning videos, take them with a grain of salt. I think he's great a marketing his services on YouTube. My suspension tuner has debunked nearly everything Dave Moss suggests about the front end on the FZ/MT-07. I'm not a fan of Dave Moss. He seems to have a cult-like following, which I don't really understand? BTW: if you do go the Racetech route, do NOT forget to order the "Emulator Adapters" for the dampener rods... I had my forks completely disassembled, before I realized I needed the adapters.... Good luck-
  8. 5 points
    I finished the trestle and mounted the swingarm back on the bike. I did some final welding, but still have more areas to do that I can't get to when mounted to the jig. I goofed and did not add much clearance between the chain and the left trestle tube. It does not hit, but is close, just under 1/8". This is a 525 chain. I'm wondering how much clearance I will gain with a 520 chain? Are 520 sprocket kits shimmed to be centered where the 525 was, or do you gain the full width of clearance on the outside from the narrower 520 chain? I hope I'm making sense. Any thoughts on this close clearance? Thanks!
  9. 5 points
    And done. Love it! I don't have any trouble putting the key in either.
  10. 4 points
    You are not going to hurt anything by not running a tune, but you will be very happy at how much better your bike will run with one. I would recommend the @2wheeldynoworks ECU flash as the easiest option. I have been running their tune for a few years now on with a stock exhaust and have been very happy.
  11. 4 points
    1" out of line seems excessive. Many bikes are built with small misalignments, but not 25mm worth. I've seen as much as 10mm off on brand new stock machines. I'm confident you can accurately measure things with the technique you're using. We used to set the toe on drag cars ( much longer than bikes!) with an accuracy of 1/8" just using strings. I know these aren't the best suspended bikes, but I don't understand why people act like these bikes are some kind of flimsy, second rate pieces of junk. Yamaha is a premium motorcycle manufacturer and these are nimble handling, fully modern, well built machines. I don't agree with the idea that the chassis and it's components are so lousy that there's no way to keep the tires in position from one ride to the next. I slammed a pot hole so hard that I exploded a rear shock. Both wheels took that hit. I hit a rock with the front tire that was the size of a quart paint can. Took out the oil pan, but everything else was unharmed. I've lowsided at 45mph and watched my bike bounce/slide down the road on its side for several seconds before it tumbled in to a 6' deep ditch. Drug it out the ditch and rode that sucker home...and took a couple hours joyride in the process. I lost a barend mirror. I was on a road trip with buddy's when a woman backed in to me while I was sitting on my bike in a dark parking lot. I watched in horror as the rear tire of her Nissan pickup parked itself on top of my bike (crash bars ftw). Rode the bike home 16hrs straight in the driving rain the following day without a worry in mind. Of all the dumb stuff my bike has had to endure, it's in tip top shape. I ride everything I have HARD, and I maintain it with the same passion. I've had this bike to bits several times and everything is as it should be. The rims and chassis have proven themselves to be stout. These are inexpensive bikes, but they're not cheap bikes. The suspension is budget, but the build quality is proper. Apologies for the rant. Good luck finding your issue! Please update with your findings as well. Ride safe
  12. 4 points
    So, I went backwards (sort of). Several years back when I had my very well sorted '14 FZ09, I briefly rode a '15 FJ09 that a friend was buying. I really liked it and have been pondering owning one ever since. Last month this followed me home. I don't plan many changes save for a flash, possibly exhaust...well let's be honest. I'm sure I'll grab some suspension bits too. So far it's exactly what the doctor ordered for all riding, but especially for 150+ mile jaunts. WW/R
  13. 4 points
    2021 Mods - Hordpower Airbox and PCV Map. Can't wait to install this.
  14. 3 points
    Universe has a way of delivering, I've been exploring ideas for where/what 3D print job could hide an on-board tire patch kit w/ CO2. Then got that slippy feelz on left turn excelerates, pull over and check rear axle for bearing compression first, all good, then do the rear tire roll, and there she is, the universe delivering me a roadside test of my on-board patch kit. Key tools in my kit NAPA tire repair tools here Tire rubber cement here DoubleTough Inflator here 6 x CO2 16 gram cans here and you know how to find everything else Disclaimer - this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus You can jump to the bottom if all you want to know what I'm adding to the kit, for next time, still keeping it minimalist. Now I'm 0nly a couple miles from my garage, so I pull it in home to do the patch, but I'm going to play I have nothing on hand, except my on-board patch kit (the black tape box is the CO2 16 gram cans). Plus like always, I got a Kershaw knife and pocket flashlight. What, no flashlight? You want to think that out. I got two tools avail in kit, to extract whatever the problem is. Preserve the air in the tire, by being quick about it when you don't have something plugging the hole. When I pull that nail, I'm going to immediately insert the tip of the patch file. Why is obvious, CO2 will take you from 15lbs to 30lbs easier than zer0 to whatever. Because I'm in garage, we'll just take a look at the air pressure before I pull the nail. Let's go with the road side fix. Pull the nail with the mini-side cutters, and insert that file to clean up the injury. But first, step back and just look at the angle and particulars of the injury, is the angle shown by the file acceptable to rope-patch, or is it a "cut" like? This is just so you know if you will run the rope a bit, before replacing rubber, a cut gets new tire asap, reasonable straight holes, not so much. Guess it's a rope-keeper, I'll run that for a while cause I'm old and senile. OK, before you go tearing away with the file, I think about NOT rounding out the hole inside or outside. I've seen a vid on Revzilla think, that they run the file in then angle all "around the clock" while filing. Want to guess what that does? Increases the injury, size of hole gets opened even larger inside and outside. Let's run the file straight in and out to keep the damn problem small, hey? First I wet that file, and I repeat wetting the file, with rubber cement. While I'm cleaning the injury the file is already delivering a good dose of rubber cement thru-out the injury. Always good to have cement already in the hole, before you plug it with rope. With the file still plug'in the hole to keep the party atmosphere inside, put a rope plug in the insertion tool, about 35%. We are going to push the rope plug all the way inside tire, until about 35% is still sticking out. Note, on a really bad emergency (size of injury) I will put the rope plug in the tool at 50%, and when I insert it I will leave both ends of rope sticking out of the injury a small bit, it's like running two ropes in at once to plug a canyon. Cover that rope with cement, I mean give it a good bath. We're trying to get wet rubber cement inside with the rope, cement makes it easy to insert rope tool with that tiny handle tool roadside, without cement you would wish for gloves and/or a "T" handle tool. OK, pull the file tool out of the hole and use the rope insertion tool, and give it to it where she needs fixed, insert (slowly so you don't go too far) until the single end of the rope remains outside about an inch, turn the handle a half turn and pull insertion tool out of the wound, that rope will stay right there. Messy, overdone, but you want to get home don't you? Grab some leaves on side of road and wipe that excess off a little if you want, you don't want to slip on that pulling back on the road. So how much air did we preserve? Well I did the switching so quick, I had almost 30 lbs of air left in tire. Think about what good news that is. When you patch roadside, be quick about the tool change, and you may have very little left to do as far as air goes. To test my inflator tool, I let the air down to 15 lbs, so we lost half our air doing the patch. Open up the black tape closed package in our kit, it's got 6 CO2 16 gram canisters ready to load. Get the inflator tool from the kit, close the yellow valve all the way, then screw the inflator onto our tire valve stem, quickly to not loose air. Get out the first CO2 and screw it in (don't bend your valve stem all over the place, be kind to that rubber thingy will ya?). Now open the yellow valve and you hear the rush and see the canister freeze outside as the pressure is released into the tire. Don't be too quick to assume it's done, those things seem to "freeze up" and fail to release all the available "equalizing" pressure into the tire. I give each one a minute, you see the bottle frost outside on the CO2 canister melt away, then CLOSE the yellow valve before you remove the empty CO2 and screw in a new CO2 canister. OK, just repeat, and you are guessing how many canisters you want to add, because this inflator doesn't have any convenient way to measure tire pressure without removing it. I started with the 15 lbs for the test, I ran 5 canisters into the tire assuming I could get a best case of about 5 lbs or air increase per canister, here's what I got. Not too shabby, from a start of 15lbs to 41 lbs with 5 canisters, better than I expected. You can run it a bit hot like this if you want, or think your patch is weak/or may not seal, straight to nearest gas station or friend's house. If you feel good about it, let the pressure down to what you run and your call about keep riding or go home and check everything over twice. Last step, use the mini side cutters and cut that extra rope hanging outside, trim it down close but NOT overdone. It's the last step, like in Africa after they kill an elephant, nobody starts to cut it up and eat until the zombie witch doctor cuts the tail off. To eat an elephant, before the tail is cut off, it like eating dinner without saying grace - a faux pas Hit's and Mizzes I can recommend this inflator, the CO2 works fine, the small file & insertion tool, and my small side cutters. What I did not have that I really needed was these things (1) my cheapo size of a 50 cent piece tire pressure gauge, I was riding without a pressure gauge, idiot (2) put a couple pair of painters plastic gloves in your kit, kind that are skin tight (3) two zip lock bags, use one on ground for your "work area" and other to put all dirty kit stuff in to take home That's it. If your not carrying a tire patch kit, knife, and flashlight, you are being a "cool hand luke" and the universe is going to one day "get your mind right", because there has clearly been a "failure to communicate". Don't be luke ... cool hand luke. All I need now is someone to 3D print a clever way to carry this minimalist kit, it's just a non-descript small black bag on pillion with a cargo net.
  15. 3 points
    Grew up on dirty bikes. Once comfortable on them I found one foot or the other at a time was plenty. One thing I did learn tho was I had more fun cowtrailing and recreating on the less focused bikes like Honda XR's and Yamaha TT's/TTR's. While the more focused bikes were the bomb on tracks and racing they weren't as fun just fartin around in vacant lots, trails and gravel pits. Have fun!
  16. 3 points
    Been a long time since I placed my shadow here. Wanted to return and say thanks to Paul @bellissimoto for hooking me up with some K-Techs. Great service, Awesome support, FAST delivery just got the suspenders today. Once again Bellissimoto comes through. Now I need to really start that 916 restore. Thank you again. R1-Limited aka JohnL
  17. 3 points
    I love it. It’s everything I expected. I remember you describing it to me a few years ago, it had been on my list since then. i agree with the general consensus that it’s worth every penny. i love the intake sound and the engine just pulls right up to red line, it’s really noticeable on the long front straightaway. Ed
  18. 3 points
    Also from Amazon this 12" long bit is under $6 (Bosch) or the Dewalt one under $6 or this one under $5 at the time of this post. 1/8" diameter works great.
  19. 3 points
    Exactly. That puts the sprockets into alignment, which is the total goal. When a motorcycle is designed and the frame fabricated, everything is based upon the basic #1 principle that the sprocket on the output shaft of the tranny and the sprocket on the rear wheel are aligned. If you get that done, then you are golden. There are steps to ensure the front forks are not binding but that wouldn't cause the side-to-side issue of front and rear wheel alignment. It all comes back to making sure the sprockets are aligned. A longer rod like this 12" bit helps, and it only adds about $10 to the motion pro tool. Drill bits are totally straight.
  20. 3 points
    Update! Got a Q3+ rear in stock sizing, and damn what a difference! Tips in so much easier than the 170, with none of the stability lost. Where the narrower rear tire felt sluggish and hesitant to lean over or stand back up, counter steering is now light as a breeze and extremely intuitive. The Dunlops are still less tippy than the Michelin's, but in a good way.. Very predictable, very consistent from edge to center to edge. Anyone who finds this thread in the future, don't make my mistake, stick with OEM sizing!!! I guess there are more expensive lessons to learn, so I won't complain too much about this one Can't wait to install my K-Tech shock and DDC's and ride safely and responsibly down some winding country lanes Thanks for all the feedback everyone who tossed in their $.02, was a big help and made this learning experience a bit easier to swallow
  21. 3 points
    It should be fine.
  22. 3 points
    My manual doesn't list that code, but some searching turns up some stuff that might help.
  23. 3 points
  24. 2 points
    here is my 2019 ice fluo I use it for commuting when its not raining and for weekend blats in the countryside. i will hopefully pop over to Europe for some trips when this covid nonsense is over. still a few bits in the pipeline but this is where i am so far stu
  25. 2 points
    I took out the guts of a small 12v compressor and carry that in the tail bag, along with a plug kit.
  26. 2 points
    I'm constantly surprised at how two guys can love two totally different bikes to do the same job. It's all personal preference. I love my KTM 520 exc. It's 20 years old now, but still "current". The RFS bikes are built way better, and the engines more durable, than the Honda XR bikes. I've owned plenty XRs. It's RFS for me here out. The 520 has excellent suspension, but can headshake in 5th/6th gear pinned if the ground is rutted. Tons of grunt directly off idle. Power wheelies in 5th gear at half throttle with no body english. Makes my FZ07 feel downright lazy. One of my tightest buddies foregoes his WR450 for his YZ250...in the woods! His YZ has such a small, violent window of power that I don't like even ripping it around our turn course. I just knew he'd hate that bike in the tight woods. Nope! He excels on that bike and I'm watching his confidence and abilities grow fast. I don't know how he does it. I'm pretty fast in the woods and can't imagine using his MX inspired two stroke for that, but he loves it. So I generally decided I won't recommend bikes anymore . If budget allows, and reach to the ground is an issue, Beta's Crosstrainer and KTM's Freeride are fantastic bikes with comfortable, capable suspension that are designed specifically to be a little lighter, a little smaller, a little less wild and a good bit more flexible than the other purpose driven bikes. They're still solid, modern platforms vs putting around on a farm bike. But, end of the day, there's no such thing as a bad dirt bike. Dirt bikes are the greatest show on earth. Anything that gets you in the woods is a good bike
  27. 2 points
    I did D.A.'s mod with the short lines as he documented, and have had no unusual results... just easy access to vacuum for syncing.
  28. 2 points
    that brilliant idea, is all @D.A., but i'm not going to say he's full of it hahaha
  29. 2 points
    Like Mr.Puss, I'm not so big--about 180 geared up--and my bike will never see a track day, so I'm interested in a more "plush" street-ride than sport or track. Also, I've got 20+ years of sport-touring behind me (VFR 800, FJ 1200, Blackbird) and my move to the MT-07 was in the interest of downsizing as I'm now in my nonage. Consequently, while I've been amazed at the expertise and capability of some contributors' modifications to their MT-07s, my interest is in finding a remedy to the bike's OEM suspension harshness (i.e. butt-jolting over expansion-joint hummocks) rather than track-prowess. Thus, I wonder whether progressive-wound springs, fork and shock, would answer my needs. I realize Pattonme finds no favor with progressives, but they're becoming universal in the auto world (along with magnetorheological dampers) and pretty common for bikes. Can 50 million Frenchmen be wrong? I realize that suspension conversations here have been extensive, but mostly not in the direction I'm inclined. Any suggestions will be appreciated.
  30. 2 points
    I stayed sloppy side. When things heat up they tighten up.
  31. 2 points
    Mid 70's hp is a good number for a supersport tune on these things. After much ($) = fiddling, dyno tIime, u4.4 and monkeying around I got mine to 78 in similar spec w/o going inside with a port, cams, tb's etc. The other thing is they come outta corners hard due to midrange power characteristics compared to Suzuki, makes em harder to catch as you have to power up sooner on the zook.
  32. 2 points
    Forget everything I said... go like hell Amigo
  33. 2 points
    Figured I would update the build. - Motion Pro throttle has been replaced by the R6 throttle - Healtech quick shifter on the way - Fobo 2 TPMS on the way
  34. 2 points
    I had a fuel injected car that would suddenly stall after driving awhile, and if I let it sit for 15-20 minutes it would start and run some more. I searched for the problem for quite a while until I decided to put a pressure gauge on the fuel rail. I taped the gauge to the cowling just outside the driver's side windshield and watched as I drove. Suddenly the pressure fell and the engine stalled. Replacing the fuel pump solved the problem. It seems that the pump would get hot and quit pumping.
  35. 2 points
    I just noticed the "hard to start". That is a huge clue. Has the bike been stored? Fuel filter? Drain old fuel out? it is fuel injected so you wouldn't have clogged carb jets...
  36. 2 points
    Then just do this simple flush down - you won't get air in system... if you need more help pm me.... I will walk u thru it slowly, carefully. You can do this amigo! But by far if you just want to flush brake fluid (with new Dot 4), you can just open the reservoir and start bleeding at the furthest caliper. Just before the reservoir is dry (about to suck air in) fill it again. Run a $9 bottle of Bel-Ray DOT 4 thru each brake circuit this way, you be fine with the results of this easy flush down.
  37. 2 points
    Massive improvement over the stock brakes and lost 3kg of weight... Really happy with the outcome... Hard work yesterday to get everything sorted but it was worth it. Headers today and hopefully going out for a longer ride to test. Aleks
  38. 2 points
    loaded up - yamaha genuine saddlebags - kriega US-30 drypack
  39. 2 points
    Took an RS660 out for a demo ride yesterday... It truly is the goldilocks bike for me. I haven't ridden a lot of high end bikes, but I have never even sat on a bike that feels as good as this one. Ergos sit about halfway between an FZ07 and a typical 600 sport bike, just leaning to the sportier side. The seat is pretty soft for a sport bike and seems more comfortable but also more sporty than the FZ07 seat. This bike is damn smooth. The handling is ridiculously light and nimble, and feels way more stable and planted than the FZ. Maybe it's the shitty suspension on my bike but this blew me away, felt better than any bike I've ever ridden and the last sport bike I rode was a Panigale 959... I might be desensitized by the infuriatingly quiet FZ07 stock exhaust, but the RS660 sounds pretty damn good in stock trim once you get on the throttle. Took it through a little highway tunnel run and couldn't help but giggle. The low end power isn't as punchy as the FZ07, but it comes on like a two stroke higher up. Giving it the beans off the line, it feels a bit lacking compared to what I'm used to, but around 6000 rpm it just turns ON and the front wont stay down. The rider modes are pretty nice, very easy to adjust and change on the fly, super easy to get used to. As soon as I got on the road I could feel the AWC kicking in, turned that off right away It might not have the outright hp of an inline 4 600, but it comes on much sooner in a more useable and legal way... Riding around the city you can wring it out in first, zip around with some pep in 2nd, or chill in 3rd or 4th very comfortably. This bike just ticks all the boxes and I'm having a hard time thinking of any bike more suited for the street and still as capable on the odd track day. It is a bit higher priced than the FZ07, but compared to any other bike in its class it blows them all away with what you get for it. The only hesitation I'm feeling is the Italian maintenance and service cost... We'll see what pops up when people start figuring out the bugs and the aftermarket scene catches up. I am excited for this bike. The only thing that has made me feel like maybe it could replace my FZ.....
  40. 2 points
    @Pursuvant wow those were toast! Good thing you changed them. One theory that I believe explains the wear on mine (and, I believe yours as well) that was proposed by @pattonme : since the bushing is too small it becomes oval to fit around the oversized tube. So now you have a scenario of a oval bushing in a round hole. Where the bushing actually wears most is probably variable depending how it happened to bend to fit around the fork tube, but in most cases I'd bet the parts of the bushing closer to the notch will bend more (because the main point of flex is 180* from the notch so the further away you travel further off tolerances will be) @Triple Jim For these bushings its recommended to replace when Teflon wears away. If you take a look at a new bushing the coating is quite thick, not just for wear in.
  41. 2 points
    The stock 525 drive sprocket for the fz07 has shoulders on both sides, equal depths. A 520 sprocket will have a deeper shoulder on the outside to add spline depth for the thinner 520 sprocket. The inside of the 520 sprocket will have a shoulder equal to the stock 525 sprocket to keep spacing correct for the rear sprocket. Rear sprockets are always flat on the back side. Did not know this a week ago, but had to research it for my swingarm project.
  42. 2 points
    It's great fun to fiddle with everything that pops up on your maintenance radar, go fo it, one more thing you can say you know how to do. But what I would start working towards, is taking over all schedui maintenance. Learn how to do everything, buy the tools to do it. The money you save not dropping your bike of for shim under bucket valve adjustment pays for all your tools and then some. Get a shop manual, study and research online, then go for it. You can do it, and there are people here on this forum that are not like me, they actually know stuff !
  43. 2 points
    Just ride and enjoy it for what it is, a budget priced toy. Measured in that fashion you'll get varying results after every ride and every attempt. There's enough 'wiggle' in the parts/systems you mentioned and enough variation in your measuring technique to keep you chasing zero to eternity. Short of laser measurements from something like a computrac system you'll never get it perfect nor does it matter. Not only that, check the run out of your rear tire and you'll find it varies laterally a BUNCH (scientific term) that will effect your measurements. Extend that 1/4" four feet to the front wheel and you're off by an inch again. Ride and enjoy it knowing the back one follows the front one. A "half bubble off plumb"? You bet it is/I am.
  44. 2 points
    Good catch with the lower bushings, I'll definitely get the proper sized ones when I pick up the rest of my parts. I ended up ordering Cogent DDC's, when they come in I'll post my rebuild as well. Very interested to see what my fork internals look like after slamming wheelies for 22000 kms :D
  45. 2 points
    Bike starts better, feels smooth and has less engine braking, fans come in around 106 and there is less deceleration pop. Once you ride for a few miles you realise how good the fueling is in the low to mid range and how much more grunt it has...Once the ignition map was loaded the bike felt even more keen to pull and the front feels very light in 2nd and 3d with the occasional small lift over uneven surfaces... Engine is responsive and with the quickshifter it just pulls and sounds fantastic. Tested this on the home route where I can go a bit mad as I know it well and use it weekly.. The sound of the intake is absolutely addictive and it comes alive with full throttle and after 6k rpm... The way it pulls is so much better than stock not even worth comparing... At 7k there is a rush of power and it pulls hard up to 10k now, after 10k there is a slight dip and I think this is where the cat comes in place. Amazing how much more torque there is and it feels like a different engine. My riding needs to be readjusted to suit, I found myself braking harder and later as before because the bike was gaining more speed than I was expecting in the same amount of time on acceleration between corners. Really happy with the map that @AP996made, I thank him for the information and help provided. Without him this could have not been the first t7 with velocity stacks and filter. Next challenge to get the Beringer in place and lose more weight. And after that is done we can spend time thinking about the cams. Aleks
  46. 2 points
    Finished up my 2020 modifications for this year’s track season, if it ever starts Only performance mod was the addition of the Akrapovic Ti exhaust. The sound is intoxicating. This is now paired with the Power Commander 5 (with a great tune) MWR Air Filter and lid, and Heal Tech Quick Shifter. This years main mod was the addition of a front fairing number plate and new colors. The number plate is from S2 Concepts, it for a FZ-09, I really liked the look. Quality is decent for a fiberglass part and it arrived quickly from France. I had to modify the mounting brackets or make it fit. Got a knock off rear seat cowl, was advertised as a used genuine Yamaha parts, it wasn’t. The seller was cool and sent me a refund when I pointed it out, so I wound up paying $25. Overall it wasn’t too bad quality wise. The only thing I didn’t like was the soft collapsible rubber strip. I made a foam insert for it and now it’s nice and firm. Also got some nice Woodcraft case savers to to replace my old RG ones. I decided to try Vinyl Wrapping for the first time. I’m happy with the results. I also got a vinyl cutter for Christmas, so I made the logos and numbers too. I was originally going to do a full FZ-07R glass kit but decided to go with the naked or semi faired look. pgeldz has had an influence on me Ed
  47. 2 points
    That's all it really takes. I found it pretty simple to get OEM box out in one piece, I'd give it 2 beers on a 6er scale WW/R
  48. 2 points
    Sale pending to local area fellow rider. Holding Pipe until Next friday the 2nd.
  49. 2 points
    Late answer on an old thread. I looked into the same thing, as the bikes share all basic running gear. So, the good news is that yes this swap is possible. The bad news is that, unlike the FZ/MT, the XSR panels and parts are very expensive, and, you need plenty of parts for the exchange to be completed. I did the math, and it might actually be cheaper to purchase an XSR.... https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2019/xsr700-xsr700kgy/fuel-tank-3 https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2019/xsr700-xsr700kgy/fuel-tank-2 https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/yamaha/motorcycle/2019/xsr700-xsr700kgy/side-cover
  50. 2 points
    Do not be scared of getting a tune. I have a tune by @2wheeldynoworks with a stock exhaust and it made a huge improvement to the bike. The stock tune is awful and this is mostly due to emissions requirements. Contact @2wheeldynoworks and see what they can do for a tune and exhaust package. I know they have good pricing and you will be happy with the results of an exhaust with a tune to match it.
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