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ccmtbikerri

Vibration between 5k rpm and 6k

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ccmtbikerri
I have had a vibration at . 5k originally it was at 4,000 to 4500. Changed exhaust to m4 slip on and power commander 5 . Had frame sliders checked torque on bolts , ok checked some plastic for fit and looseness . And torque on engine bolts and frame . Has anybody ever seen this before . 2015 with 3500 miles . Dealer hasn't seen this yet either.

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ralph
Mines smooth at any revs, how about the chain?
or can you feel it with the bike stopped.

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rick
I find mine to be at its buzziest right at 5k. Doesn't get any worse as it climbs higher and usually my mind is somewhere else when on the gas. Sorta consider this a normal downside of a vertical twin. As a parallel twin, would be far worse w/o the counter balancer inside or that 270 degree crank.
 
If you could find a way to quell the vibes in the bars, you might start to feel it in the footpegs or the seat/tank or somewhere else. You'll also find this sorta thing bothers some people more/less than others - even different gloves can change your perception. I had a BMW K-bike years ago that put my hands and feet to sleep it vibrated so much. A buddy of mine had the exact same bike and thought it was smooth as silk.
 
Changing bars made my FZ's bzzz a tad worse, but did not change the RPM zone where it started.
 
 

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norcal616
 
You might be feeling exhaust resonance or the generic fueling of the PCV is not as smooth as it could be
 
 
 

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ccmtbikerri
That is kind of where my mind was heading . So thank you. I also realize the tank has a lot of plastic on it so I have some thin sticky foam strips that I can put in between that dealers use for similar problems on cars. Any other ideas are appreciated. Thank you .

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rick
I seem to remember someone mentioning that the Renthal bars are filled with urethane(?)
 
The bars I put on mine are Emgo "Euro" bars and they are noticeably lighter in weight (thinner steel?) than the OE bars. I'm tempted to try filling the tube with this stuff. It self-levels and sets up to a fairly dense rubber. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445
 
Doing this to the OE bars might be a bit trickier due to the threaded plug inside that takes the bar end weights, but the Emgos are just a hollow tube.
 
Oh, speaking of bar end weights - did you check those for tight?

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ravenlord
Mine is about the same. I didn't really notice it last year, just this year when I took it out of storage. It hasn't been getting any worse so I've been ignoring it.

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Beemer
Throw some grip puppies on and see if that helps. If not, at least you will have a softer/better grip for cheap.

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avanti
I notice you didn't say exactly how you are experiencing this "vibration." Most seem to assume through the handle-bars since that is common, but you noted the plastic gas tank a couple times. If you could describe how the sensation manifests for you it might be helpful in understanding what is going on. The fact that it changed when you varied your exhaust suggests resonance of something, potentially less significant than typical, engine-harmonics based, handle-bar buzz.

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elmo
I seem to remember someone mentioning that the Renthal bars are filled with urethane(?)  
The bars I put on mine are Emgo "Euro" bars and they are noticeably lighter in weight (thinner steel?) than the OE bars. I'm tempted to try filling the tube with this stuff. It self-levels and sets up to a fairly dense rubber. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445
 
Doing this to the OE bars might be a bit trickier due to the threaded plug inside that takes the bar end weights, but the Emgos are just a hollow tube.
 
Oh, speaking of bar end weights - did you check those for tight?
Used caution with the sikaflex self-leveling product, its used in horizontal concrete cracks or control joints to 3/4-1" max deep, and requires air exposer to cure. Placing inside handlebar would not allow it to cure and could be very messy.  

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rick
I seem to remember someone mentioning that the Renthal bars are filled with urethane(?)  
The bars I put on mine are Emgo "Euro" bars and they are noticeably lighter in weight (thinner steel?) than the OE bars. I'm tempted to try filling the tube with this stuff. It self-levels and sets up to a fairly dense rubber. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Sikaflex-10-fl-oz-Crack-Sealant-427706/203249445
 
Doing this to the OE bars might be a bit trickier due to the threaded plug inside that takes the bar end weights, but the Emgos are just a hollow tube.
 
Oh, speaking of bar end weights - did you check those for tight?
Used caution with the sikaflex self-leveling product, its used in horizontal concrete cracks or control joints to 3/4-1" max deep, and requires air exposer to cure. Placing inside handlebar would not allow it to cure and could be very messy.
Thanks, good to know. Sorta wondered about that. At an inch deep, it takes about a week to fully cure/set-up - experienced that myself - have over 80 ft. of driveway, so gone thru a few tubes. Would have been a winter experiment anyway with the bar in the basement - not on the bike.  
OK, what about a 2-part rubber, epdm, roofing product that needs a hardener mixed in to cure? They totally cure in about a day, but I've no idea what they'd do trapped in a long, hollow. Might even get hot, so might have to do small sections at a time to allow for some expansion and heat dissipation. 
 
BTW, (and this is really off-topic) I used that same sikaflex stuff to fill in the hollow of my Seat Concepts foam. I hated the shape of that seat. Took  a full tube of the stuff to flatten out that dished-in zone and then added some softer foam over top as that cured rubber makes for a pretty firm perch for the rump. Not perfect, but way better 

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norcal616
put BBs in the bars-

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ralph
Not had to on a modern bike but have filled reale vibrating bikes bars with lead.

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rick
Not had to on a modern bike but have filled reale vibrating bikes bars with lead.
Something on the order of an old 650 Bonneville or perhaps a BSA 441 Victor?  

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markstertt
Not had to on a modern bike but have filled reale vibrating bikes bars with lead.
Something on the order of an old 650 Bonneville or perhaps a BSA 441 Victor?  
Hey! Careful there Rick...I just went out and checked my Bonnie and it isn't vibrating at all, just as smooth as if it wasn't even running...oh, wait a minute. 
In the good old days, some folks filled their bars with lead bird shot topped off with a cap of silicone sealant...reversible, then came the 'Bar Snake' which got lubed up and pulled into the bar from one end, I still have one in the box...never tried it.
 

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rick
Have a friend who had a 1968 Sportster (real low to the ground and the heaviest dang motorcycle you'll ever hoist from a side stand) and a neighbor when I was in high school - (we'll leave that date alone) had a Victor in bright yellow iirc. Both were LOUD and both shook yer teeth out. The Sportster shook so hard the primary case notoriously cracked and the OE dry clutch had to be converted to, erm, wet.. The Victor didn't run long enough at any one time to hurt itself, lol. Pushing it back up the hill when it wouldn't start kept us fit. It would sure wheelie when it did run.

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elmo
he

Used caution with the sikaflex self-leveling product, its used in horizontal concrete cracks or control joints to 3/4-1" max deep, and requires air exposer to cure. Placing inside handlebar would not allow it to cure and could be very messy.
Thanks, good to know. Sorta wondered about that. At an inch deep, it takes about a week to fully cure/set-up - experienced that myself - have over 80 ft. of driveway, so gone thru a few tubes. Would have been a winter experiment anyway with the bar in the basement - not on the bike.  
OK, what about a 2-part rubber, epdm, roofing product that needs a hardener mixed in to cure? They totally cure in about a day, but I've no idea what they'd do trapped in a long, hollow. Might even get hot, so might have to do small sections at a time to allow for some expansion and heat dissipation. 
 
BTW, (and this is really off-topic) I used that same sikaflex stuff to fill in the hollow of my Seat Concepts foam. I hated the shape of that seat. Took  a full tube of the stuff to flatten out that dished-in zone and then added some softer foam over top as that cured rubber makes for a pretty firm perch for the rump. Not perfect, but way better.
 

Yes, 2-part caulking would self-cure, but typically used more in commercial work, requiring paddle mixing in the hardener and special caulk gun setup. Using the Sika 2-part epoxy may work and believe cartridge fits in a standard caulk gun. I have no vibration issues, but the post recommending filling with bb's and caulk ends sounds interesting. 

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ccmtbikerri
Your right, I wasn't clear about where I felt the vibration , more of when I felt . I feel it in the seat , the plastic on the tank near the seat , the foot pegs , and in the grips. It was happening before i changed the exhaust , just at 4k rpm not 5k rpm. I did the correct break in and changed the oil as recommended. Checked torque and tightness on fasteners and mounts . I hope that is a little more helpful.

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faffi
My engine also starts vibrating around 4500-5000 rpm, and seems to get worse as the revs increase. Not enough to notice under acceleration, but annoying under steady cruising from 5500-6000 or so upwards. Particularly in the handlebars. That Yamaha decided to rubber-mount the handlebars is a clear indication that the engine is not perfectly smooth.
 
What people consider vibrations or not, and especially annoying vibrations or not, is highly individual. The Sportster 883 I rode years ago was pretty smooth and never annoying. For me, annoying is when my hands goes to sleep. My Z1300 six was what most would consider smooth, but my hands would go to sleep within minutes if the engine was kept at 4000 rpm.

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rick
I put Barkbuster Storm hand guards on mine a while back and that required removing the end weights. Bar vibration was noticeably worse, so I added Barkbusters optional weights. They were expensive for just chunks of painted steel, but did the job and smoothed the vibration in the bars - maybe even to less than the OE setup. What was funny was that I started noticing the vibes in my feet and thru the tank panels.
 
After getting used to that set-up, swapping bars brought out the buzz again. Fix one issue, cause another, lol.
 
Footage buzz is relative to which boots I'm wearing and mostly only an issue when I'm wearing my thinly soled Sidis.
 
Best to try and just ignore it. It's really not that bad considering other bikes some of us have owned. But I think if I were to go on a long trip with this bike, I'd put a taller sprocket set-up on to drop the revs a tad. That would make cruising at 70 more enjoyable.

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