Premium Member panchobullet Posted August 22, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted August 22, 2016 Pancho needs to use his right wrist more... accel is fine @ -2 in the rear... @panchobullet , want to weigh in here? - Paulie Hehehehe... Well I think I do use my right wrist pretty good, but the "problem" I feel with the 41T is not kicking as powerful as 43T (which was expected) but also not getting to top speed as good as before. Where I was able to pull 129mph with 16/43 I barely made 124mph with 16/41 and was a little bit dissapointed to be honest. I havent been able to test the "new" top end speed yet but hope to give it a try in a few weeks during our next group ride to beach. As @pgeldz said I got a 42T to give it try and I also have a 45T to make a crazy wheelie machine mainly for track rides. I'll be using the 41T for a few more weeks to test it a little bit more but so far I still want the initial kick power back. - Pancho You've never seen me cause I'm too damn fast! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted August 22, 2016 Share Posted August 22, 2016 Short gearing is good for impromptu roll ons, but from a stoplight drag race perspective, I'm about 90 percent confident that a 17t front is quicker. You can launch hard, and get the front wheel to just skim the asphalt, whereas with the stock gears, just as you dialed in the perfect amount of lift on the front wheel, you'd run out of gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 Will changing sprocket size also change the way chain tension is checked? Wouldn't a smaller diameter rear sprocket, if using the std. chain tensioning technique result in a to tight chain when the singarm moves up in it's arc? And vice versa with a larger rear diameter? Just something that popped up in my head... Interesting info here on gearing, I was thinking of going to a 520 chain eventually but with slightly taller gearing, perhaps 17t/ 44t or 45t.Slightly taller with the larger diameter benefits of better chain life (maybe)and maybe getting the chain off the chain slider a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted August 23, 2016 Share Posted August 23, 2016 I just aim for 45mm total deflection for the chain. Measuring it the oem way is impossible for me, the rear is an inch taller than stock due to a taller shock, so the swingarm to chain distance is completely different. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markstertt Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 Yeah good point, I found this out for same reason, I was just wondering if anyone had considered this tensioning question when changing sprocket sizes. I'll have to experiment when the time comes, might be insignificant but won't know without checking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level41 Posted September 9, 2016 Share Posted September 9, 2016 @panchobullet , want to weigh in here? - Paulie Hehehehe... Well I think I do use my right wrist pretty good, but the "problem" I feel with the 41T is not kicking as powerful as 43T (which was expected) but also not getting to top speed as good as before. Where I was able to pull 129mph with 16/43 I barely made 124mph with 16/41 and was a little bit dissapointed to be honest. I havent been able to test the "new" top end speed yet but hope to give it a try in a few weeks during our next group ride to beach. As @pgeldz said I got a 42T to give it try and I also have a 45T to make a crazy wheelie machine mainly for track rides. I'll be using the 41T for a few more weeks to test it a little bit more but so far I still want the initial kick power back. - Pancho In your case you make 129 mph with the stock sprockets at peak HP. That means your bike won't be able to go faster unless you somehow can improve HP. You could change from stock 16/43T to a 16/38T, or a 17/40T to get the same top speed in 5th (or a 17/34t in 4th). I'm not sure if the FZ-07 has a direct drive in their gearbox, like cars do. But if 4th gear would be 1:1, then you could in theory get a higher top speed due to less transmission friction losses in the direct gear drive. But I don't think it has a direct drive; I could be wrong here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member dony Posted September 9, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted September 9, 2016 525 chain is fine. The "stock" chain is not the best chain available and is one reason for switching. 520 is lighter so it's considered a performance upgrade. My dealer told me the stock chain is a DID , $230 can, chain. I thought DID was the best?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted September 10, 2016 Share Posted September 10, 2016 Everybody has 'grades'. DiD makes (sells branded) expensive chain and cheap(er) chain. OEM chain is frequently a significant departure from aftermarket in quality. If you buy the OE chain from the dealer you are being gouged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member dony Posted September 10, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted September 10, 2016 Everybody has 'grades'. DiD makes (sells branded) expensive chain and cheap(er) chain. OEM chain is frequently a significant departure from aftermarket in quality. If you buy the OE chain from the dealer you are being gouged.Thanks, that makes sense, I was asking because the orings in my stock chain inexplicably started to come out. I was told by the dealer and DID after contacting both that I over lubed the chain which is false because I went strickly by the manual. I cleaned every 600 miles and lubed every 300. I only ever used Motul road lube which is specificly designed for oring chain. My bike barely has 10000 miles and eventually DID admited I may have got a faulty chain from the factory however they were unwilling to give me a replacement or even a discount! after dealing with them and their unwillingness to stand behind their product I have ordered a EK Xring chain. It is cheaper so I hope the quality will be good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted September 11, 2016 Share Posted September 11, 2016 Do a 520 conversion. A decent Rk 520 chain is like 70 bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
liami Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 I don't know why you'd go -1/-3, it's about the same as stock, you're making opposite changes. Down in the front causes same as up in the rear and vice versa. Less teeth in front (or more teeth in back) causes quicker acceleration but lower top end. More teeth in front (or less teeth in rear) causes higher top end but slower acceleration. I plan on getting a 47 rear sprocket, just because that was my cheapest, easiest option when I change my chain and sprockets. Rear sprocket and the chain will be blue, not too expensive. Front sprocket doesn't matter cuz it won't be seen anyway, but the one I found only comes 16 tooth so that's staying as is Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 16 tooth is plus 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member pgeldz Posted September 12, 2016 Author Premium Member Share Posted September 12, 2016 16 tooth is plus 1. Actually 16t on the front is the stock, OEM size... - Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Whoops, you're right. Got my bikes crossed up. I'm running a 17t countershaft sprocket, that one is the plus 1. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member pgeldz Posted September 12, 2016 Author Premium Member Share Posted September 12, 2016 Whoops, you're right. Got my bikes crossed up. I'm running a 17t countershaft sprocket, that one is the plus 1. How do you like the 17t up front? I don't know of too many people using them. Just about all the sprocket manufacturers make the 15 and 16 tooth, with only a few folks lising a 17t for the FZ-07, making me wonder why... Going up 1 tooth is equal to going down 2.68 in the rear, and since there is more weight savings to be had by going to a smaller rear than a larger front, I'm curious that's all. - Paulie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 12, 2016 Share Posted September 12, 2016 Everybody has 'grades'. DiD makes (sells branded) expensive chain and cheap(er) chain. OEM chain is frequently a significant departure from aftermarket in quality. If you buy the OE chain from the dealer you are being gouged.Thanks, that makes sense, I was asking because the orings in my stock chain inexplicably started to come out. I was told by the dealer and DID after contacting both that I over lubed the chain which is false because I went strickly by the manual. I cleaned every 600 miles and lubed every 300. I only ever used Motul road lube which is specificly designed for oring chain. My bike barely has 10000 miles and eventually DID admited I may have got a faulty chain from the factory however they were unwilling to give me a replacement or even a discount! after dealing with them and their unwillingness to stand behind their product I have ordered a EK Xring chain. It is cheaper so I hope the quality will be good?You could've gotten a 520 conversion with sprockets and chain for under $200 from a member here! When my o-rings die, I'm going blue 520 x-ring chain from @bellissimoto. I barely have 4,000 miles on my bike, so it might be a while. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 Whoops, you're right. Got my bikes crossed up. I'm running a 17t countershaft sprocket, that one is the plus 1. How do you like the 17t up front? I don't know of too many people using them. Just about all the sprocket manufacturers make the 15 and 16 tooth, with only a few folks lising a 17t for the FZ-07, making me wonder why... Going up 1 tooth is equal to going down 2.68 in the rear, and since there is more weight savings to be had by going to a smaller rear than a larger front, I'm curious that's all. - Paulie I'm a bit of a weight freak, and try to eek out a gram or an ounce where I can. I went as far as to install the hollow brake caliper bolts from a 2005 R6 because they save a couple grams lol. However, with the chain, I prefer durability over weight. My last 520 setup ate up the counter shaft sprocket after 18k miles, so an additional tooth wouldn't hurt. As far as gearing, I love it. I think our overall ideas of where we want gearing are probably similar. It's just that I want the +3 rear sprocket drive of 2nd gear as a first gear, and prefer a long 6th for 85mph cruising. The problem with getting 2nd gear shorter and shorter is that it makes first gear more and more useless. Unless you're towing, or pulling stumps, it eventually becomes an unnecessary gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member dony Posted September 13, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted September 13, 2016 Thanks, that makes sense, I was asking because the orings in my stock chain inexplicably started to come out. I was told by the dealer and DID after contacting both that I over lubed the chain which is false because I went strickly by the manual. I cleaned every 600 miles and lubed every 300. I only ever used Motul road lube which is specificly designed for oring chain. My bike barely has 10000 miles and eventually DID admited I may have got a faulty chain from the factory however they were unwilling to give me a replacement or even a discount! after dealing with them and their unwillingness to stand behind their product I have ordered a EK Xring chain. It is cheaper so I hope the quality will be good?You could've gotten a 520 conversion with sprockets and chain for under $200 from a member here! When my o-rings die, I'm going blue 520 x-ring chain from @bellissimoto . I barely have 4,000 miles on my bike, so it might be a while. That would be $200 U.S.? I am in Canada so after the conversion plus the shipping it would not be that great of a deal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 13, 2016 Share Posted September 13, 2016 You could've gotten a 520 conversion with sprockets and chain for under $200 from a member here! When my o-rings die, I'm going blue 520 x-ring chain from @bellissimoto . I barely have 4,000 miles on my bike, so it might be a while. That would be $200 U.S.? I am in Canada so after the conversion plus the shipping it would not be that great of a deal.Wouldn't hurt to pm @bellissimoto. Just click on the name and send a PM. I was quoted under $200 and I believe shipping is free but don't quote me on that. Better than paying over $200 at the dealer for just a chain and running the already used stock sprockets. That chain won't last nearly as long using it on worn sprockets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member dony Posted September 13, 2016 Premium Member Share Posted September 13, 2016 That would be $200 U.S.? I am in Canada so after the conversion plus the shipping it would not be that great of a deal.Wouldn't hurt to pm @bellissimoto . Just click on the name and send a PM. I was quoted under $200 and I believe shipping is free but don't quote me on that. Better than paying over $200 at the dealer for just a chain and running the already used stock sprockets. That chain won't last nearly as long using it on worn sprockets. My parts are already on order. I ordered new OEM sprockets because the front has the rubber collar on which reallys dampens vibrations. I ordered a good quality EK Xring chain and the total was $220 canadian. It is a 525 set up. Out of curiosity what exactly is the reason everyone wants to do the 520 conversion. I know it is a bit lighter but when there are 150lb guys and 200plus guys(like me) riding I can't see a lighter chain making much difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest ChicagoAJ Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Wouldn't hurt to pm @bellissimoto . Just click on the name and send a PM. I was quoted under $200 and I believe shipping is free but don't quote me on that. Better than paying over $200 at the dealer for just a chain and running the already used stock sprockets. That chain won't last nearly as long using it on worn sprockets. My parts are already on order. I ordered new OEM sprockets because the front has the rubber collar on which reallys dampens vibrations. I ordered a good quality EK Xring chain and the total was $220 canadian. It is a 525 set up. Out of curiosity what exactly is the reason everyone wants to do the 520 conversion. I know it is a bit lighter but when there are 150lb guys and 200plus guys(like me) riding I can't see a lighter chain making much difference. It all boils down to rotational weight of the chain/sprockets and the friction of the chain. X-ring chains require less friction to be turned or something like that because they seal better than o-rings. I'm sure someone can explain it better. But all I know is x-rings are better than o-rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomascrown Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Wouldn't hurt to pm @bellissimoto . Just click on the name and send a PM. I was quoted under $200 and I believe shipping is free but don't quote me on that. Better than paying over $200 at the dealer for just a chain and running the already used stock sprockets. That chain won't last nearly as long using it on worn sprockets. My parts are already on order. I ordered new OEM sprockets because the front has the rubber collar on which reallys dampens vibrations. I ordered a good quality EK Xring chain and the total was $220 canadian. It is a 525 set up. Out of curiosity what exactly is the reason everyone wants to do the 520 conversion. I know it is a bit lighter but when there are 150lb guys and 200plus guys(like me) riding I can't see a lighter chain making much difference. Because an equivalent 520 setup is half the price, and has more readily available sprockets of varying size. I've been able to catch tight links and worn sprockets simply from the altered vibration of the chain. I actually prefer that the chain communicates somewhat to my rearsets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maz20 Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 As far as gearing, I love it. I think our overall ideas of where we want gearing are probably similar. It's just that I want the +3 rear sprocket drive of 2nd gear as a first gear, and prefer a long 6th for 85mph cruising. The problem with getting 2nd gear shorter and shorter is that it makes first gear more and more useless. Unless you're towing, or pulling stumps, it eventually becomes an unnecessary gear. Or, unless you live in San Francisco! I have a -1/+2 setup (525 steel sprockets), and with the kind of traffic here, it's nice to be clutch-free at 10 mph Granted, I do lose out on fuel/mpg on the freeways, but I rarely find myself getting out of the city (perhaps a CBR300R would have been more SF-friendly!) I'm debating gearing it even shorter, but I'm using the stock chain and I don't think I can fit a bigger rear sprocket (>45 teeth). Now, if only someone made a 14-tooth front sprocket... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pattonme Posted October 14, 2016 Share Posted October 14, 2016 you don't want a 14 sprocket. radius is getting too tight. http://www.gearingcommander.com/ implies you can get a 15/46 in there but a 15/47 might be asking too much. I don't know what the minimum sprocket distance is. Has anyone measured? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
level41 Posted October 25, 2016 Share Posted October 25, 2016 I want to cruze on my FZ, use it to travel long distances on the freeway. Never take it much beyond 100MPH. Don't want to do wheelies, and don't care about it's acceleration, because I'm used to riding with similar bikes, with 1/2 the HP/torque as this bike. So I would like to do a +1/-2t to a +1/-3t sprocket setup; to cruise more comfy on the highway (lower interstate RPM by 700, and highway RPM by 500). It would also allow me to go 40MPH at ~2666RPM, which seems the minimum RPM to run the engine comfortably. You could possibly drill out the catalytic converter to allow the engine to breathe better at those lower RPMs (because usually the back pressure is the cause of engines not running well at lower RPM. My question would be: Which 17t sprocket should I get? Would it fit without a chain size swap? I want to use the stock chain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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