Guest Ralph Posted May 21, 2015 Share Posted May 21, 2015 Correct do not touch the left adjuster Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Guys, I'm trying to order tubing to do this synch but what size is the fitting? I've read two posts where OP uses 1/4in, and 3/16in tubing (assuming this is referencing the OD) what what should the ID be? Is the fitting 1/8"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ralph Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I dont know the size but used the stuff for air pumps in tropical fish tanks T pieces came for the same thing and you can get restrictor valves as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Do you need restrictor valves? Does this prevent the engine from sucking up the fluid? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
howlinhoss Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Do you need restrictor valves? Does this prevent the engine from sucking up the fluid? Post a diy with pics for making a manometer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Someone's already done that--actually a few people, I think. Just trying to figure out what size tubing to get, ID and OD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Someone's already done that--actually a few people, I think. Just trying to figure out what size tubing to get, ID and OD OD doesn't matter... ID probably 1/8 to 3/16" should work. A little smaller is better for a good seal and the tubing will stretch anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 okay thanks bud. And, are the vaccum restrictors necessary? Maybe it would "smooth out" the oil levels so it isn't so jumpy? http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/vacuum-connector-and-tubing/dorman-autograde-3-16-in-dia-hard-vacuum-tubing-restrictor-connector/369702/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 okay thanks bud. And, are the vaccum restrictors necessary? Maybe it would "smooth out" the oil levels so it isn't so jumpy? http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/vacuum-connector-and-tubing/dorman-autograde-3-16-in-dia-hard-vacuum-tubing-restrictor-connector/369702/ You won't know till you try... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I will try. Will report back, assuming anyone is interested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member fz07fanboy Posted May 28, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted May 28, 2015 Do you need restrictor valves? Does this prevent the engine from sucking up the fluid? Yes you do need to use restrictor valves. This does prevent the engine from sucking in the fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 You don't NEED them and they'll only slow down the ingestion of fluid. If your using a manometer and forget to connect both ends before you start the bike... bye, bye goes the fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seans Posted July 7, 2015 Share Posted July 7, 2015 Thanks for the post! It was very helpful when I did my throttle body synch today. I thought I would share a bit of my experience to maybe help others. This is the first time I have ever done this to a fuel injected bike and with things packed so tightly. It was a struggle to remain patient at times. First off, I built the manometer using the two, clear bottle technique to minimize chances of the engine sucking the fluid in. - I don't believe it is mentioned in the original post, but after you remove the vacuum line from the drive-side TB, you have to plug said line back up for the bike to run properly. - Two sets of hands are really ideal here. Especially if you want to minimize chances of scratching anything. - Fuel started coming out of my overflow lines when I started the bike. My tank had only 20km on it, so it was essentially full...This may have been the cause. I took a length fuel line and connected the two overflow nipples at the bottom of the tank. - Less is more. At 1000km, my bike didn't really need any adjustment, but I tried to mess with it anyways. I found that even an 1/8" turn made a drastic difference. Hope this helps someone. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogun88 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 My invoice from the 600mi service from the dealership says " adjusted throttle free play". Is this the same as a throttle body sync? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted July 8, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 8, 2015 My invoice from the 600mi service from the dealership says " adjusted throttle free play". Is this the same as a throttle body sync?No...that means the dealer just took the lil bit of slack in the cable out since the cable stretched out since its new...the carb syncing is a totally different thing... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shogun88 Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 My invoice from the 600mi service from the dealership says " adjusted throttle free play". Is this the same as a throttle body sync?No...that means the dealer just took the lil bit of slack in the cable out since the cable stretched out since its new...the carb syncing is a totally different thing...Ive read the whole thread to find out what exactly a throttle body is and when its needed and still can't figure it out completely. I did mention a throttle body sync to the service guy today and said it would be done if its needed. Can someone please explain how you would know if a sync is needed? Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 You know when you connect the gauges and read the pressure for ea fuel injector. If one is off from the other, it needs to be adjusted so that ea cylinder runs together smoothly. Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted July 8, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 8, 2015 I marked my carb sync screws with a fine tipped sharpie and took a picture so I can have the dealer do a gold level service package on the bike this winter...I marked em cuz it will tell me if the dealer attempted to " sync the carbs"... Ps...I know the fz-07 has fuel injection not carbs with jets and a needle... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 Lol good idea Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted July 8, 2015 Share Posted July 8, 2015 I've been working on my homemade manometer. My bike doesn't start up as good as it should and spark plugs are due for a checkup so I'll get both chores done at one go. If I can give any advice on this: is to get the oil in the hose before assembly. Getting 2 cycle oil to settle in the center of a 12 foot chunk of 1/8 ID hose is bit of a nightmare. Its really hard to avoid air pockets and once you got em ... good luck. Its really hot here so the oil is thin and beating up the hose finally produced the desired result. I finished the balance procedure. Its a little tricky. Setup a fan to blow on the rad so I could maintain operating temp long enough to get it set. Too cold or too hot gives different readings. I also put a six inch length of plugged hose on the right nipple instead of fooling with the cap when I was done. Was able to do the procedure with the tank in place. Thanks to OP for posting the how-to. It was invaluable help. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 just a question, something I've been wondering about: I did this synch maybe 1k miles ago. The right adjustment screw needed a full quarter-turn in to level the oil in my manometer. From what I've been reading, that seemed like an awful lot. It kinda bothered me. About 500 miles ago, I rebuilt the meter with different fluid, reset the adjuster to stock, and did it again...it landed in the same place. What would cause this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yamahaha Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 just a question, something I've been wondering about: I did this synch maybe 1k miles ago. The right adjustment screw needed a full quarter-turn in to level the oil in my manometer. From what I've been reading, that seemed like an awful lot. It kinda bothered me. About 500 miles ago, I rebuilt the meter with different fluid, reset the adjuster to stock, and did it again...it landed in the same place. What would cause this?You turned the adjuster screw out a quarter turn before your second attempt? If you got the same results two times in a row then I think you got it. I just did my sync and the right screw needed to be turned in a fair bit as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fflier9 Posted July 9, 2015 Share Posted July 9, 2015 yeah, before I did it again I reset it to stock, where it was from the dealership, and ended in the same place. I thought it was OK, just wanted to ask, there's guys talking about *ONE-SIXTEENTH* of a turn adjustments, thought maybe I f-ed something up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted July 12, 2015 Share Posted July 12, 2015 Just got mine done thanks to all the info in this thread. The screw needed at least 1/4 turn, and I think it was far more than that. I think I'll check it again tomorrow just to be sure it's right. I bet I can do it in fifteen minutes now: [video src=http://youtu.be/n_Y-z9FLPBY] Thanks a million for all the help! Edit: Did it one more time just to double check and see how quickly it could really be done. Got it down to about ten minutes: [video src=http://youtu.be/zy4wAhhjBjU] 1 “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member databyter Posted July 27, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 27, 2015 So I guess my ultimate question is that is it normal for one cylinder to pull more and more vacuum RELATIVE to the other until 4k rpm and stay there? Should I be worried? Is it different for every engine (manufacture tolerance), or is it by design to do so? Is there any FZ-07 out there that achieved sync at idle and all the way throughout rev range?I haven't read thru the entire thread, so maybe this has been addressed, but there is a difference between homemade U tubes with an open loop, and seperate gauges or columns that are closed circuits or independant columns. The difference affects the sensitivity of the reading at higher RPM's. Because with the open loop you are really only comparing, not measuring, and as the inputs increase in pressure and pulse rate, the sensitivity changes. In a closed circuit gauge or independant column as the vacuum increases so does the resistance to it. It is fairly consistant and accurate and the pulse rate or what the other side is doing is irrelevant. In the homemade open loop design there is really no bottom end or brick wall that consistantly increases resistance to the vacuum. It is more of a comparison thing and because it is not independant an imbalance between the two sides can cause a reading to be cumulatively inaccurate as the fluid crawls from one side to the other, usually at a higher rpm. It behaves differently than a closed loop and will read differently and on a different scale of sensitivity based on the weight of the oil, the height of the columns, and the rpm or pulse rates. You could even exceed the variables and easily suck the oil out on one side due more to pulse rate and comparitive difference than actual vacuum if your columns are not high enough or you have the wrong amount of oil. If the difference between the cylinders is greater than those factors, even if they may be close for throttle body sync at idle, you could get substancial cumulative crawl from one side to the other at high rpm's and therefore an apparent error in your reading. It's not an error really. It's just not as bad as it looks. I hope I am explaining this right. with one method you are pulling against a brick wall, and comparing to another pull against another brick wall. WIth the other method you are playing tug of war with a skateboard. It is great at low values for comparison, but the more pulses and rpm you put into your open loop the more cumulative sensitivity will show at the skateboard. Disclaimer, I am not a mechanic or experienced with throttle body adjustments, I am just really smart when it comes to physics. Two things could be happening. Either you have an imbalance at higher RPM's which is unlikely unless it is a big leak of some kind, or the cumulative error of the open loop manometer is showing it's limitations, and at 4K it maxes out because that is where the height of your columns and the weight of the oil defeats the cumulative differential between the two sides of the "circuit" I may be completely off base, but it seems pretty obvious that if you had closed loop independant columns or gauges your differential, while there, would be much smaller than what you are probably seeing. This is creepage from one side to the other. You could try to balance it at the higher RPM and see if the idle would still be within tolerance. That is the only solution I can think of other than finding a leak and/or buying an independant column or gauge to confirm a higher rpm discrephancy. p.s. I am tired and it's late, and this is probably a really old thread so apologies. Databyter Databyter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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