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Aligning your rear wheel.


snowdriftless

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Just now, Mt707 said:

Edit, I do have to hold the right adjuster nut with a wrench...

There is a good bit of slop in that axle head sliding block. I surprised myself how much more accurate with almost no effort it is with the MP.

And I had been using hard plastic construction "shims" to hold that sliding block centered while I torque. Imo if you keep the sliding block centered, the chain adjust marks are accurate. For street riders, this is probably all just a big yawn

Ymmv

 

Edited by Pursuvant
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Provided the frame and swing arm are made correctly I measure from swing arm pivot to axle to get it right.   Only way it could be off is if the swing arm or frame are not made correctly.  

I could see doing the string to check if any problems exist with the frame and all, but on chain adjustment a measure from swing arm pivot to axle is quicker and accurate for rear wheel placement.

Not so sure I'd trust the adjuster block measure, since that may or may not be accurate.   

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M. Hausknecht

It occurs to me that perhaps the difference in chain alignment experience turns at least  in part on the use of 520 versus 525 chain. I have 520 sprockets and chain. The 525 is 1/16" wider but, I suppose the sprockets are correspondingly wider as well so perhaps not.

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I grew up building bicycles from scrap parts and the frames were always out of whack. A good final check on wheel alignment is riding without hands on the handlebars; if you have to lean your body to keep the bike going straight, either the front forks or rear wheel are not aligned with each other.
Assuming the motorcycle itself is balanced about the centerline plane, if I let go of the handlebars while coasting, I shouldn't have to lean my body left or right to keep tracking straight ahead.  This is similar to the comment above from Einstein57 about doing wheelies to find out if the rear wheel is aligned perfectly. 

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Pursuvant
Just now, Hardly said:

if I let go of the handlebars while coasting, I shouldn't have to lean my body left or right to keep tracking straight ahead....

I would suggest if you have an aftermarket header, it weighs less than stock, am suggesting the engineering desk design is a bit out of wack. I don't expect the human body is weight symmetrical either, depending on where that Burger King Whopper is in the cycle of life. Tire variances in profile vs weight of tire construction materials... Gyroscopes and rotating mass... I'm old, but good karma balances...

I also have some "heavy thoughts" that bla bla blah... 🙃

 

Edited by Pursuvant
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shinyribs

Most roads aren't level. They're typically crowned for water runoff. Depending on which lane you're in, the road will be slightly steering the bike under you, so you'll have to accommodate that with body leaning when riding without hands when you start traveling slow enough.

Gyroscopic forces keep a bike upright, not actual balance. If we literally had to balance a motorcycle to keep them upright only a few circus tightrope walkers would be able to successfully ride the things 😁

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shinyribs
18 hours ago, Pursuvant said:

There is a good bit of slop in that axle head sliding block. I surprised myself how much more accurate with almost no effort it is with the MP.

And I had been using hard plastic construction "shims" to hold that sliding block centered while I torque. Imo if you keep the sliding block centered, the chain adjust marks are accurate. For street riders, this is probably all just a big yawn

Ymmv

 

Put a shop rag, a stick of wood or a screwdriver ( if you're not scared- it won't hurt anything) where the chain and sprocket come together and roll the wheel. It will bind the chain and force the axle as far forward as possible. Which is what we want. You don't have to hold things centered while you tighten the axle, which is why they give us the adjuster bolts. The axle should be pushing against the adjuster block, and the adjuster block bolts push against the tails of the swingarm. You don't want things floating around as they'll eventually shift in to proper position anyway. 

 

 

If you do this vvv it will snuggly force  everything in to it's proper position. Super easy! 

ChainPrepWEB-rag.thumb.jpg.c30f93d6666f144d076144da24e4902b.jpg

 

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M. Hausknecht
43 minutes ago, shinyribs said:

Put a shop rag, a stick of wood or a screwdriver ( if you're not scared- it won't hurt anything) where the chain and sprocket come together and roll the wheel. It will bind the chain and force the axle as far forward as possible. Which is what we want. You don't have to hold things centered while you tighten the axle, which is why they give us the adjuster bolts. The axle should be pushing against the adjuster block, and the adjuster block bolts push against the tails of the swingarm. You don't want things floating around as they'll eventually shift in to proper position anyway. 

 

 

If you do this vvv it will snuggly force  everything in to it's proper position. Super easy! 

ChainPrepWEB-rag.thumb.jpg.c30f93d6666f144d076144da24e4902b.jpg

 

That'll work, for sure. When tightening the axle, I'm usually squatting behind the motorcycle so I just press my knee against the rear tire to assure it is all the way forward. You gotta  do something to assure both axle adjusters are sharing the load or otherwise the wheel will cock as you tighten the axle nut.

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Pursuvant
6 hours ago, shinyribs said:

Put a shop rag, a stick of wood or a screwdriver ( if you're not scared- it won't hurt anything) where the chain and sprocket come together and roll the wheel. It will bind the chain and force the axle as far forward as possible. Which is what we want. You don't have to hold things centered while you tighten the axle, which is why they give us the adjuster bolts. The axle should be pushing against the adjuster block, and the adjuster block bolts push against the tails of the swingarm. You don't want things floating around as they'll eventually shift in to proper position anyway. 

 

 

If you do this vvv it will snuggly force  everything in to it's proper position. Super easy! 

ChainPrepWEB-rag.thumb.jpg.c30f93d6666f144d076144da24e4902b.jpg

 

Yes very much agreed with getting everything snug in the right direction. I've got a little old man dance I do to get it all positioned, just before I sacrifice a virgin throwing her into the volcano.

Thanks for your approach, I've been having trouble finding virgins

 

Edited by Pursuvant
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shinyribs
Just now, Pursuvant said:

 

Thanks for your approach, I've been having trouble finding virgins

 

 

They're all over there on the Suzuki forums 😁

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  • 3 weeks later...

 I think Drive Medical RTL10266BL-HS Nitro DLX Rollator Walker is better than others. My grandmother is using it since last year. Though she didn't want to use this walker. We tried to convince her and finally, she agreed to use it. Now she is happy with this beautiful walker. BTW, thanks for sharing. 

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M. Hausknecht
Just now, andrew2s said:

 I think Drive Medical RTL10266BL-HS Nitro DLX Rollator Walker is better than others. My grandmother is using it since last year. Though she didn't want to use this walker. We tried to convince her and finally, she agreed to use it. Now she is happy with this beautiful walker. BTW, thanks for sharing. 

Huh?

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Just now, M. Hausknecht said:

Huh?

It's a Race Walker...

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M. Hausknecht
Just now, Pursuvant said:

It's a Race Walker...

Ohhhhh, I see....

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