fflier9 Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 Hello, I watched a few videos, got a torque wrench and decided to adjust the chain. I loosened the axle bolt and backed off the lock washers on the spindles. Then, I tightened the nuts on either side until the chain slack was 1.8 in unstretched, and with pressure about 2.2 in. Fine so far. Made sure there was equal spacing on both plates, tapped my hand lightly on the wheel to seat it forward, tightened the locknut against the adjuster nut, and began tightening the axle bolt. Now the problems...the first time I tightened it, I notice the left side swingarm plate could move back and forth a little after everything was tight. Do you continue to tighten the adjusting nut after the axle bolt is tightened? Then, I notice tightening the axle bolt made the previously aligned right-side swingarm plate go sideways, like this. (two picture album) http://imgur.com/a/2wpGP I think the tightening torque is rotating what the shop manual calls the "chain puller"...the thing the spindle is attached to, as it tightens. What am I doing/not doing? The videos made it look to easy..please help me learn. Sorry if this is a dumb question, just kind of wigged out. Brand new bike, don't want to mess anything up, but I figure there's really no other way to learn. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YZEtc Posted May 8, 2015 Share Posted May 8, 2015 After you get the marks on both sides lined-up and evenly, you tighten the axle nut first, then tighten the chain puller nuts second. Assuming your marks are lined-up evenly, you need to loosen those chain puller nuts and tighten them so that gap on the puller end plate is removed and butted-up against the end of the swingarm. If your marks are not evenly lined-up, do it all over. When you are turning your wrench to tighten the axle nut, it's best to push the wrench forward, not pull it backward.This keeps the end plate up against the swingarm. In my opinion and experience, most people will adjust the drive chain too tightly, and this includes most motorcycle mechanics I know. They shoot for the minimum slack specification, or even less, and will make another adjustment as soon as the chain gains a little more slack, even if it's still within the maximum specification. Also, people will think there shouldn't be any slack at all, or barely any at all. If you do it this way, don't be surprised if you are constantly making chain adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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