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ch3rryghost

Handlebar replacement tips

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ch3rryghost
For those that have had previous experience replacing their bars, could you give me some words of advice or things to keep in mind when doing so? 
 
Cursory glance tells me everything should be straight forward but I'm a little worried about the placement of things during re-assembly. Is it as simple as it looks or are there any hidden quirks? How long do you think it'd take? Maybe I'll have a go at a DIY write-up and actually contribute to this community for once. 
 
TIA

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vodapas
I actually just finished up replacing the OEM bars with a set of Renthal bars last night. Honestly, it is pretty straight forward if you are mechanically inclined. Or even if you're like me. Haha.
 
Here are some pointers (trouble spots) I ran into:
 
- The turn signal/horn switch, the starter button (slider) switch and the clam shell (bracket for throttle cables) all have little nubs on them that fit into corresponding holes drilled into factory bars. You can either grind down the nubs or drill holes in your new bars. I highly recommend drilling holes in the new bars as that way you keep the stock parts stock and you have good fitment reference for the rest of the parts on the bars. Up to you though. If you do drill new holes and your new bars have radically differing length, bends or both you're gonna have to put some work and creativity into making sure the holes end up in basically the same spot. Measure twice (at least) drill once y'know. I recommend you mount the new bars in basically the location you want them on the bike before deciding what spot to drill the holes. Remember if the bend is drastically different you're looking at a lot of variables of change such as cable length, control location in relation to where your hands will be and bar clearance to the tank. Top tip: make all measurements on your factory bars with the bar end weights in place. The weights are odd in that there is nearly an inch of length added to the bars (under the grips) by the weights. Usually OEM bar weights start at the end of the grips. Not so in the case of the FZ-07. Really glad I noticed that before I made any mods to the Renthal bars.
 
- The bracket that holds the end of the clutch lever and left mirror does not split for easy removal. It's a tension bracket. You have to slide it off the end of the bar which means you have to remove the left grip even if you (like me) weren't planning to. It's fine for the factory bar but it got pretty chewed up trying to slide it on my Renthal bars as the knurled area was obviously thicker than the factory bar. It is do'able though. I ended up putting the bracket in my vise. Hitting it with a heat gun, spreading the bracket a little with pliers, spraying the inside of the bracket and the end of the Renthal bars with WD-40 and then gingerly sliding the bar into the bracket (make sure it's facing the right way haha).
 
- Grip removal is a breeze. Yamaha uses only a small amount of grip glue. I just used the spray contact cleaner into the end of the grip and work it back and forth method. Super easy.
 
- Make sure you pay attention to the way the bar mounts face. There is a specific way. If you look at the underside there is a little circle (machine mark) at the top (front of motorcycle). Just make sure those are facing the right direction when you install your new bars. The torque spec is 20 ft lbs. Remember tighten the top two bolts first then the bottom two.
 
Obviously, I have to recommend having a shop manual and budget in some extra time for those little things that pop up.  Ok, have I made it sound really intimidating? It's not. Obviously, you'll have to adjust and experiment to find the best fit for you. But, it's not bad. Hit me up if you need any help.
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ch3rryghost
@vodapas,
 
Wow. Thank you so much for the feedback those points are exactly what I was looking for; I truly appreciate you taking the time out to write that up. Not intimidated in the least bit ;)

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bmwpowere36m3
Pretty much what @vodapas said, except I'd grind the nubs off the controls... makes locating them on the handlebars much easier and you can always readjust them later.  If you end up drilling the handlebars and your off a bit, so will the controls... and you don't want to be drilling multiple holes at each control.
The nubs are there really only to "locate" the controls on the bars and not so much hold them in place (i.e., from rotating around).

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crazycracka501
Pretty much what @vodapas said, except I'd grind the nubs off the controls... makes locating them on the handlebars much easier and you can always readjust them later.  If you end up drilling the handlebars and your off a bit, so will the controls... and you don't want to be drilling multiple holes at each control. The nubs are there really only to "locate" the controls on the bars and not so much hold them in place (i.e., from rotating around).
I was told by a very good mechanic that the nubs do in fact help to hold the controls in place.  The only suggestion he gave was "If you insist on removing the nubs, simply use black electrical tape and wrap about twice around the handlebar to shore up the fit a little or over time the controls may start rolling around on the bars.  He also warned about over tightening the screws or bolts in the controls to keep the controls from moving, the tape will help to prevent that as well.  I didn't feel like messing with any of it and just replaced with stock bars (should have just went with aftermarket as I was already putting in most of the work) 
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bmwpowere36m3
Pretty much what @vodapas said, except I'd grind the nubs off the controls... makes locating them on the handlebars much easier and you can always readjust them later.  If you end up drilling the handlebars and your off a bit, so will the controls... and you don't want to be drilling multiple holes at each control. The nubs are there really only to "locate" the controls on the bars and not so much hold them in place (i.e., from rotating around).
I was told by a very good mechanic that the nubs do in fact help to hold the controls in place.  The only suggestion he gave was "If you insist on removing the nubs, simply use black electrical tape and wrap about twice around the handlebar to shore up the fit a little or over time the controls may start rolling around on the bars.  He also warned about over tightening the screws or bolts in the controls to keep the controls from moving, the tape will help to prevent that as well.  I didn't feel like messing with any of it and just replaced with stock bars (should have just went with aftermarket as I was already putting in most of the work)
Yup, a couple wraps of electrical tape will do the trick if the controls don't stay in place.
 

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