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cndnmax

Free/Cheap garage door opener solution!

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cndnmax
Free/Cheap garage door opener solution!
 
 
For all my bikes I like to hide my garage door remotes out of site and use small discrete push buttons to operate them from the handle bars. 
 
Items required:
• Garage Door Opener
• Push-button-must be momentary Normaly open
• 8ft of small gauge wire
• Solder/Solder iron
• Crimp on connectors (optional)
• Small project box (optional)
 
Step 1: Disassemble your garage door remote.
 
The circuit board was held in by a small clip for me. Yours may have a small screw, clips, or nothing at all.
 
Clip-Thumb.jpg
What we will do is solder some short wires to the back of the button that works your garage door.
Board-Thumb.jpg

The push-buttons may have 2 or 4 terminals each (mine have 4), you will need to figure out which 2 terminals to solder your leads to. If you are not familiar with electronics you can use a screwdriver to short two of them together and see which combination activates the garage door.
 
Back%20Board-Thumb.jpg

Step 2: Soldering 101:
 
• Heat up Iron
 
• apply small amount of solder to the iron
 
• use helping hand or pliers to hold the wire lead to the terminal you want to connect it to
 
• apply heat to the wire and the terminal
 
• allow small amount of Solder to flow through the wire
Solder%20Setup-Thumb.jpg

Done!
Solder%20Complete-Thumb.jpg
 
Now you will need 2x 5ft wires and solder these to the two terminals on your push-button. Use heat-shrink or electrical tape to insulate the terminals. you do not need waterproof buttons, I've never had an issue. 
Push%20Button-Thumb.jpg
 
Step 3: Find somewhere to mount it! On my previous bike I drilled a hole in the switch assembly and mounted my push-button inside but for this one I needed to operate two remotes so I mounted both my Push-buttons in a small project box and mounted it to the back side of my brake reservoir (Mini-Project box 1.5x1x.5"). 
Mounted-Thumb.jpg
 
Route your wires through this nifty reusable zip tie kindly provided by Yamaha.
 
Routing%201-Thumb.jpg

 Route the wires underneath the tank and all the way to the under seat storage area. You will need to remove both seats, removing the right side tank covers will make it easier but it is not required.
Routing%202-Thumb.jpg
I used crimp on connectors to connect my push-button to my remote – this allows for easy removal to replace batteries and stuff.
Finished%20Product-Thumb.jpg

My remotes fit nicely underneath this metal bracket – be careful not to block the seat latch though.
Storage-Thumb.jpg
 
Update:
**** "Secure" Ignition dependent Remote- if you're the paranoid type ;)
Most remotes use Rolling codes that prevent them from being cloned but If you are worried about someone opening your garage when you leave your bike in-front of your house and don't want to disconnect the nifty crimp connectors then follow these steps:
 
Version 1 (simple): 
-Buy a 12volt version of a remote that works with your garage door.
-remove the battery and solder some short wires to the "Positive" (usually flat) and the "Negative" (spring) terminals. 
-Tap into that convenient DC accessory connector underneath the left side tank cover using press on taps or make a connector.
-Use crimp connectors to connect Pos and Neg (accessory) to Pos and Neg (remote)
-Now the remote will only get power when the ignition is on.
-Follow previous steps to complete mod. 
 
Version 2 (advance):
-Buy a simple 12VDC relay SPST or SPDT from anywhere 
-Create the leads to operate the remote as shown above
-Tap into that convenient DC accessory connector underneath the left side tank cover using press on taps or make a connector.
- Positive accessory lead goes to one side of the push-button
-wire relay as shown below. 
Relay2%20copy.jpg
 
The relay gets power only with the ignition ON, the push-button activates the relay which then activates your garage remote. 
 
 
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so1102
Well done, sir!

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squintyeyes
Thanks! i didn't know it was that easy! Whats is the plastic housing called or where did you get it that you have the buttons in?

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tino206
This is SOOO AMAZING!!! I wish I had the courage to take this on because it looks easy enough but I am just not that crafty..

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cndnmax
Thanks! i didn't know it was that easy! Whats is the plastic housing called or where did you get it that you have the buttons in?
 
It's a mini-project box (1.5x1x.5") I had laying around but you can get them online or like radio shack. If you just need one button the cleanest install is to mount it in the switch assembly-just make sure it will fit before u drill the hole!

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cndnmax
This is SOOO AMAZING!!! I wish I had the courage to take this on because it looks easy enough but I am just not that crafty..
 
It's pretty much impossible to mess up, at worst you need a new remote. I say go for it!
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grahamfz07
Great idea, thanks
It would be nice to tie the signal through a relay contact which is switched on an ignition power source so it will only work when the bike is turned on. Just in case you leave it parked outside your house, you would never need to disconnect the remote wires
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lbv
I've just got my spare opener taped near the handle bar but not as clean looking as your set-up - nice.

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cndnmax
Great idea, thanks It would be nice to tie the signal through a relay contact which is switched on an ignition power source so it will only work when the bike is turned on. Just in case you leave it parked outside your house, you would never need to disconnect the remote wires
 
I never felt the need to, most people would never guess that the buttons would work the garage door. I'll add some quick instructions on how to wire up the relay incase others have this concern also.
 
*just added to the top*
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fivefootthree
I really liked the idea of adding an opener for the bike so I went ahead and worked on another "solution" to this for myself and those who are interested.  Instead of a separate button for triggering the remote, it is wired to the flash to pass switch.  This is a bit more complicated design but still fairly easy to do with some basic soldering skills... the same as needed to do any of the other methods described by @cndnmax.  Here is the link to where I found more information on this design:  link
 
The door remote is triggered for about 1.5-3 seconds when the high beams are switched on via the flash to pass button or the standard rocker switch.
 
**I have removed the instructions/information from when I originally posted this design as it did not work fully as intended, and stopped functioning upon changing from the stock halogen H4 bulb to a Cyclops LED H4 bulb.  See later posts for newer design**

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cndnmax
@fivefootthree, I thought about doing it the way you did initially. Just a few questions on your setup.
1. Why the capacitor and resistor? A 12v relay should do just fine with a direct connection to the coils. You shouldn't need the diode either, the bike runs on DC.
2. If you connect across the switch(looked like it from the picture) ur bypassing the switch and ur relay will receive constant power. I would connect to the "out" of the switch and ground(assuming they are switching pos).

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fivefootthree
@fivefootthree, I thought about doing it the way you did initially. Just a few questions on your setup. 1. Why the capacitor and resistor? A 12v relay should do just fine with a direct connection to the coils. You shouldn't need the diode either, the bike runs on DC.
2. If you connect across the switch(looked like it from the picture) ur bypassing the switch and ur relay will receive constant power. I would connect to the "out" of the switch and ground(assuming they are switching pos).
For starters, the voltage over the momentary switch (flash to pass/ high beam circuit) is 12v when the low beams are on, and then goes to 0v when the high beams are on. This is slightly counter intuitive to what I originally thought would happen. 
1. The capacitor and resistor take the constant 12v signal supplied by the bike and change it to a one time momentary 12v signal. Without that, the relay coil would be charged the for as long as it was receiving the 12v, which would drain the little 3v battery in the door opener remote very fast as the "button" would be "pushed" for the duration that you high beams are on (the relay would also have to be wired to the low beams and not high beams for the relay to charge when high beams are on).
 
When the low beams are on there would be a constant 12v over the coil charging it and tripping the relay, however since the capacitor is in line with the relay it draws the voltage off the coil and thus the capacitor charges and not the coil. With that, when the low beams are on the capacitor is charging and the relay stays off and the remote button is not "pushed".
 
Now when the high beams are flipped on via the rocker or flash to pass, the voltage over the momentary switch goes to 0v. This essentially is disconnecting the relay, but since there is voltage in the capacitor it then discharges over the relay and charges the coil for a set duration of time (the size of the capacitor). This is how you achieve the single input on the remote and not a constant input.
 
The diode: What that is doing in the circuit is protecting the feedback loop. I cant 100% explain all that, but without that the relay would be triggered once when you turn the high beams on (for 1.5-3 sec) and then again when you turn them off (for another 1.5-3 sec). With the diode, the relay is only triggered when the high beams go on.
 
 
2. I'm not exactly sure what you're getting at/ asking, but the voltage from the bike is connected over the coil (pins 85 and 86). The door remote is connected over the switch (pins 30 and 87, 30 being common and 87 is normally open and closed when the relay coil is charged)
 

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cndnmax
For starters, the voltage over the momentary switch (flash to pass/ high beam circuit) is 12v when the low beams are on, and then goes to 0v when the high beams are on. This is slightly counter intuitive to what I originally thought would happen.
 

I assume you are measuring across the two terminals on the flash to pass switch-when the switch is open(not activated) you measure 12v, when the switch is closed(activated) you measure 0 correct? This actually means that 12v is flowing through the switch then activated, your meter measures voltage drops and not voltage if that makes sense. by wiring across the switch the relay will get power constantly (ignoring the capacitor that blocks flow once charged). When u push the flash to pass you "short" the relay discharging the capacitor and allowing the relay to pulse once more when the flash to pass is released.
 
It would work but it's not the ideal way to do it and if your capacitor shorts you won't be able to turn off your highbeam . I would use the "output" terminal of the flash to pass and a ground connection instead-this is actually the way your original link describes.
 
 
 
 

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fivefootthree
I assume you are measuring across the two terminals on the flash to pass switch-when the switch is open(not activated) you measure 12v, when the switch is closed(activated) you measure 0 correct? This actually means that 12v is flowing through the switch then activated, your meter measures voltage drops and not voltage if that makes sense. 

That actually makes perfect sense.. I forgot that I was actually measuring a voltage drop over the switch. 
As far as wiring from flash to pass output and then a ground connection, that would be ideal and was planning to test that but needed a connection that I knew went to ground and I didn't take the left side panel off to gain access to the 12v accessory connection (which has a definite ground connection).
 
In the link where I found most of the wiring information for this project, they were wiring directly to the headlight unit.  I wanted to avoid that due to the high amount current directly at the headlight connection.  I also wanted to use solder points vs splicing in wires so the project could be removed 100% if the bike were to be sold or something.
 
I can test and troubleshoot a hot from switch to "power in" on relay, ground to ground scenario vs the wired over a switch that I have currently.  Which would negate a potential lighting issue if the capacitor were to short as you said.
 
 
EDIT:  I went to test the assembly as stated above, but could not find the 12v accessory port/ cables under the left panels, so I hooked the power side of the relay to "RED" on the switch and directly to ground on the battery.  The side of the relay with the capacitor went to ground.  This did not work.  The lights worked as normal but the relay never triggered.  I then changed the polarity and still nothing.  I then wired it as I had originally planned, and it did not work as it had the last time I tested it with that orientation.  I'm not sure what happened any why, but I will test again/ rebuild if needed in the near future.

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cndnmax
@fivefootthree did you come up with a final design? how did it turn out?

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