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applekoolaid

Axle bolt stripped...everyone beware

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applekoolaid
I have seen a couple of other FZ owners encounter this problem and it happened to me too.
I went to make a chain adjustment and backed off the self locking nut on the axle bolt.  When I began to tighten the nut back up it was frozen solid.  It wouldn't tighten or loosen.  I have never had the nut off the bolt so I know it's not cross threaded.  I did a quick google search to find that others have had a problem with grit/debris getting in there and causing the self locking nut to basically weld itself onto the axle bolt.  Others have ruined multiple parts and bent pieces trying to get the nut off (some even having to grind it off).  Luckily I was able to work the nut back and forth a quarter of an inch at a time until it finally worked free and released.  I still completely ruined the bolt itself and nut, but at least that's the only damage. 
Has anyone else had this happen?  What do you do to prevent this? 
One guy suggested slapping grease over the ends of the threads so debris won't get in there, but it seems like that would actually attract dirt and debris.  Any suggestions?
FYI...the part numbers for the axle bolt (shaft,pivot 4FN-22141-00-00) and self locking nut (90185-18009-00)
About a $50 screw up if you're lucky and several hundred if you're not....
 
 
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Cruizin
I don't have an answer for that issue, maybe grease would at least stop the nut and bolt from locking together?

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howworkclutch
sounds like galling

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bmwpowere36m3
Never had an issue with axle locking nuts... unless the quality of the factory hardware is poor (not saying it is). Sometimes we are "blessed" with a dealer tech, you goes gorilla-tight on bike-prep. I always put a dab of anti-sieze on almost all my fasteners that DON'T get thread-locker. I also put a very, very light wipe of grease on the axle itself.

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Cruizin
Probably is dealer caused. Their new techs usually are the kind of guys that I wouldn't let mow my lawn.

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yamahaha
Axle nuts and oil drain plugs are over torqued big time at the factory. This could "pull" threads on the axle shaft or nut. I'm amazed no one has damaged an oil pan trying to get the plug out it is so tight.
 
Nylock type locking nuts should not have locktight, never seize, etc. applied. Defeats the purpose of the nylock and may react with the nylon. I've never had an axle nut seize; either nylock or regular. I'm careful not to over torque.
 
If I was going to use anything on bike fasteners it would be blue locktite and I use it on most everything that is not nylock. When I use locktite I just snug up the fasteners lightly.
 
Never use never seize around aluminum. It is often copper based. Copper and aluminum do not mix.

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Guest unknown
EVERY nut on this bike is over-torqued from the factory IMO. The rear shock was pita to break the bolts for removal.

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bmwpowere36m3
Axle nuts and oil drain plugs are over torqued big time at the factory. This could "pull" threads on the axle shaft or nut. I'm amazed no one has damaged an oil pan trying to get the plug out it is so tight. 
Nylock type locking nuts should not have locktight, never seize, etc. applied. Defeats the purpose of the nylock and may react with the nylon. I've never had an axle nut seize; either nylock or regular. I'm careful not to over torque.
 
If I was going to use anything on bike fasteners it would be blue locktite and I use it on most everything that is not nylock. When I use locktite I just snug up the fasteners lightly.
 
Never use never seize around aluminum. It is often copper based. Copper and aluminum do not mix.
 
 
Are the factory locknuts nylocs? Or are they fuji nuts, i.e. they incorporate a little metal tang to lock onto the threads.
 
I agree about not using thread-locker or anti-seize/lube with nylocs. As far as copper anti-seize.... never had an issue with aluminum or copper sealing washers for that matter. I use copper anti-seize on everything.

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applekoolaid
No nylon, appear to be Fuji style @bmwpowere36m3
nut.jpg

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yamahaha
 

As far as copper anti-seize.... never had an issue with aluminum or copper sealing washers for that matter. I use copper anti-seize on everything. 
 

I'm happy you have never had an issue. Do you own an aluminum boat per chance? Aluminum boat owners are well versed in galvanic corrosion and electrolosis as well as engine rebuilders.  
 

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pattonme
I believe bikes in crates come with rear wheel on? If not, this is probably dealer-induced/aggravated. Not to say the threads of the axle or the nut might not be complete crap, specification compliance-wise when they left the factory. It's perfectly fine to put some anti-seize on these threads but sparingly (dab). It might not be a bad idea to chase the threads with a die. Technically the nut is supposed to be replaced every couple of uses, not that anyone actually does so. I guess we need to add to the owner's manual:
 
"apply spray penetrant and let sit 10 minutes."
 
IMO just buy a couple nuts and the first time you loosen, take the factory one off all the way and inspect the axle threads. Who knows, maybe this is another recall in the making.

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hobbs
Strike hold is the bee's knees, most used item in my tool box.
 
It basically does everything, but for tough bolts it works miracles.
 
I picked a bottle up when I owned my '76.. it saved my sanity and knuckles quite a bit.
 
Can be found @ http://www.dimecitycycles.com/vintage-cafe-racer-caferacer-bobber-brat-chopper-custom-motorcycle-tools-rust-preventor-lubricant-strikehold.html
 

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bmwpowere36m3

As far as copper anti-seize.... never had an issue with aluminum or copper sealing washers for that matter. I use copper anti-seize on everything. 
 

I'm happy you have never had an issue. Do you own an aluminum boat per chance? Aluminum boat owners are well versed in galvanic corrosion and electrolosis as well as engine rebuilders.  

 
 
Boats yes, aluminium hull no. Boating and its environment is very different than that of motorcycles or cars. I'm just sharing my expierence with typical steel fasteners in steel or cast iron or aluminum or magnesium components/parts.
 
I've had great success with Liqui Moly LM 508 Anti-Seize Compound. However I've also used nickel-based, moly, aluminum anti-seize as well without issue.

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bmwpowere36m3
I believe bikes in crates come with rear wheel on? If not, this is probably dealer-induced/aggravated. Not to say the threads of the axle or the nut might not be complete crap, specification compliance-wise when they left the factory. It's perfectly fine to put some anti-seize on these threads but sparingly (dab). It might not be a bad idea to chase the threads with a die. Technically the nut is supposed to be replaced every couple of uses, not that anyone actually does so. I guess we need to add to the owner's manual: 
"apply spray penetrant and let sit 10 minutes."
 
IMO just buy a couple nuts and the first time you loosen, take the factory one off all the way and inspect the axle threads. Who knows, maybe this is another recall in the making.
 
 
+1
 
I reuse those Fuji style nuts till they no longer thread on with resistance, then I replace. Nylocs should be replaced each time, but I've been known to reuse as well. It's really a judgement call. Thread-locker can be used in a pinch with both of those as well.
 
My thumper, dirt bike, loves so shake fasteners loose... they call get anti-seize or threadlocker. If it's a fastener I loosen often/check, then I use anti-seize (always sparingly).

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avanti
For what it's worth (maybe nothing, of course), the factory Shop Manual on disassembling Chrysler hemi engines, at least the originals up through 1958, instructed to use an impact wrench when disassembling because the "strikes" of the impact in operation were less stressful on the fastener threads than loosening them by hand. Unfortunately, my last Manual went with my last 392-engined convertible and I haven't another Manual to actually quote, as I otherwise normally would.
 
Just a thought about loosening factory fasteners, in general.
 
Btw, as I recall, Carroll Smith in his book, Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook (1990) states that "modern" nylocs can be reused if not damaged.  Doesn't mean I do so, but this is from an expert.
 

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