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Renthal ultra low handlebars


minner

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My arms are long and I often felt uncomfortable with the width and position of the OEM handlebars.  I wanted something with less rise and more width. The goal was to reduce the amount of elbow flexion and get more weight over the front tire.  The drag bar look is great but I didn't want to compromise comfort when riding slow around the city.  I installed the Renthal ultra lows yesterday.  I'm very pleased with the feel of the new bars. There is a very noticeable difference in the position of my torso and arms when riding.  The difference is not radical but the combination of increased width (3 cm on each end) and the lower rise extends my arms enough so I don't feel like a T-rex.  I can still sit upright with a good amount of flexion at the elbow.  I added Driven D3 grips and Renthal bars ends to finish it off.  I may transition to bar end mirrors sometime in the future.  
 
For anyone with long arms considering these bars, I would try the feel of the Renthals at stock width after removing the OEM bar and before considering cutting the ends down. 
 
 
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy127/mikemnop/IMG_0739.jpg
 
 
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy127/mikemnop/IMG_0746.jpg
 
 
http://i784.photobucket.com/albums/yy127/mikemnop/IMG_0744.jpg

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wickedtwister

I also swapped my stock bar out for a Renthal but I went with the street fighter bend. It was a little wider I think than the ultra low. I prefer the feel of the wide bars always have in every bike.... dirt, mountain, and motorcycle.

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I guess I don't understand the point of new handle bars. I may be sounding dumb, but is there something wrong with the stock bars? I see everyone (or so it seems like everyone) doing this mod and I don't understand what the point of it is. What is the difference when you do this? I'm not trying to sound pretentious or anything, I just genuinely don't understand what the point is. Please explain and help.. Haha

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I guess I don't understand the point of new handle bars. I may be sounding dumb, but is there something wrong with the stock bars? I see everyone (or so it seems like everyone) doing this mod and I don't understand what the point of it is. What is the difference when you do this? I'm not trying to sound pretentious or anything, I just genuinely don't understand what the point is. Please explain and help.. Haha
 
There is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock bars. But not every rider with an 07 is the same height, width, weight, have the same inseem, arms length, or riding style. A big part of motorcycling is customization/modding it to fit your personality. Whether it be for performance, aesthetics, or comfort. For me, since I'm a mere 150lbs and 5' 8", and the torque the FZ produces at such early rpms, I like to be further forward over the bike to keep the front down. I can accomplish that with lower bars. But I do believe that most riders change them out for just looks. Kinda like swapping out the exhaust for sound (no one really cares it produces a mere 1hp more than stock).
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I wanted to get lower handlebars (Rizomas which are lower than renthal ultra lows and not as wide as well) but then 2 weeks ago I rode 2 hours on the highway, spent a good amount of time tucked in, and my back hurt afterwards because the tank is too small for my chest to touch and rest on. I think I'll stick with the upright position.

I visit here at least once a week.  Got any questions, ask and I will answer!

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We simplify the implications of modifications. There are so many variables that play into comfort and perceived control. Some people have some disc disease in their spine while others have a congenital or acquired spinal stenosis. Extension of the spine reduces pain for one condition and exacerbates pain in the other (stenosis). Then you have height, weight, arm length, core strength, psychological factors and it becomes very difficult to predict how well a position change is tolerated. I was always grabbing the very end of my grips for comfort so I was guessing some increased width would feel good. It did.
 
There are relatively few touch points and visible parts when riding a motorcycle. For touch points it's just the hands, feet, butt and inner thighs. I think adjustments in these areas can have quite an impact on how the bike feels. There are very few visible parts when riding as well. Mostly the gauges, windscreen , mirrors and front tire on the 07. When you're sitting on the bike at a light, or when starting, you interact with the handlebars and controls. Making these items visually appealing can matter to some.
 
The OEM bars worked fine but I'm happy a cheap mod can make an appreciable improvement.
 
Wishing I looked into the street fighter version. Luckily the swap is very fast

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pantheraleo

Odd, I've not questioned the bars until now. You guys have got me looking at a drag bar now.
 
Just when I thought I was done modding...
 
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PQOTHK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=viglink26159-20

O judgment! Thou art fled to brutish beasts,
And men have lost their reason. Bear with me.
My heart is in the coffin there with Caesar,
And I must pause...till it come back to me.

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snowdriftless

I have been thinking about adding some for a sportier feel to my motorcycle. Thanks for the write-up/review!

P1: Vice? I have no vice, I'm as pure as the driven snow!
P2: Yeah but you've been drifting
 
All the gear all the time!

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There are lots of reasons to change bars on any motorcycle.
First ergonomics: If you sit in the normal position with your hands where you want them for a comfortable ride and put a rod in each hand you will get the natural angle of your hands and the sweep and angle of the bars you should use. ANY other angle will cause pressure on some part of the hand and arms and shoulders and cause fatigue or even damage with long rides. Women usually need more sweep than men but like most things there is more variation within a gender than between their averages. Substantially less control with tired hands.
However with this bike , especially with stock suspension ( read soggy rear), the bike needs more weight on the front to counteract the static reaward weight bias. The front is decidedly vague because of this. A change to more forward flatter bars will help this.
If you are happy with the std ape hangers that is fine. Some people even put wider bars on ( note you don't steer with leverage unless you are on rough stuff where you need it to overcome wheel deflection like dirt bikes do). What ever you feel comfortable with. As said above it is a cheap mod to individualize you bike and narrower, flatter and more forward bars have the advantage on this bike of improving the handling and reducing the front wheel unweighting this bike suffers from.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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The Rizoma bars mentioned by Skeeterh are 3 cm lower (45mm) than the Renthal ultra lows (75mm). 5 mm less total width too ( 720 vs 725 mm). They seem like a great option between the more extreme drag bars and the OEM.

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Haven't seen the Rizomas. I also replaced the rear sloping bars clamps with lower and straight up so moved the bars 20mm forward and down about the same

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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howworkclutch
I wanted to get lower handlebars (Rizomas which are lower than renthal ultra lows and not as wide as well) but then 2 weeks ago I rode 2 hours on the highway, spent a good amount of time tucked in, and my back hurt afterwards because the tank is too small for my chest to touch and rest on. I think I'll stick with the upright position.
a tank bag will solve that problem. 
on my sportster, i used to run inverted bars for interstate trips.  i'd lay on my tankbag (full of clothes for the trip) and put my feet on the passenger pegs.  then i'd lock the throttle for 70mph on flat road. harleys have slow / heavy steering so once i was set i could practically go to sleep.  
 
and since i was in a full tuck, i could ride all day.  a lot of my buddies thought i was nuts until we'd go on a road trip and by the end of the day i was still raring to go.
 
 
 

-HowWorkClutch

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howworkclutch

i'd like a slightly narrower bar for this bike. the steering is a little fast for the riding i do.
 
the custom that yamaha did has clipons and it looks damned good but i'm not sure i could be bent over like that without rearsets.

-HowWorkClutch

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bmwpowere36m3
i'd like a slightly narrower bar for this bike. the steering is a little fast for the riding i do.  
the custom that yamaha did has clipons and it looks damned good but i'm not sure i could be bent over like that without rearsets.
If its too fast… then you should look at longer overall handlebars.
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"If its too fast… then you should look at longer overall handlebars."
 
 
 
Yeah that's why MotoGp bikes have motocross bars...
If you want to back the bike into corners motard style maybe widerbars would be useful, but steering a motorcycle shouldn't require high leverage. The wider bars on the road thing is a recent function associated with streetfighters and with slack head angle cruisers, where it helps control wheel flop when turning.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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I heard Woodcraft was coming out with a sweet handle bar adapter. May be worth checking out for a more aggressive bar position. 

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howworkclutch

A sweet handlebar adapter? So it only works with bars made of caramel? Just joking. But I am kinda lost: what sort of adapter is it?

-HowWorkClutch

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" That's a great idea. I was also considering rear sets to get me feet back an inch or two. What are your thoughts?"
 
Road bike pegs should be behind the swingarm pivot but so are that they amplify the feel to the suspension movement. Exactly where? Well that is complicated. The best position will be where the angle between the elements of spine/femur/knee/lower leg and foot/ankle are at their most natural position when sitting in a neutral riding position. And that ain't easy to find by yourself. Even type of boot will influence the peg/seat geometry. Seat and handlebar/hand position and arm length also changes the spine angle so will influence. On bicycles all positions are changeable, they do it relative to the bottom bracket but on a motorcycle, the prime 2 things are body centre of gravity and swing arm pivot.
So basically, put the handlebars you are going to use on and try and find the position of the peg that is neutral and comfortable.
Some points.
The lower the bars the furthur back the pegs need to be.
The more forward the bars, the furthur back the pegs need to be.
The longer you arms the more forward the pegs need to be.
The higher the seat the furthur forward the pegs need to be.
Because you legs are composed of 4 elements, geometrically speaking, you have to take them as a whole, but basically the most efficient ( ie quicker reacting, comfortable for greatest length of time, easiest to brake and change gear) position is with the angle between each body pivot at about 90deg.
BIg and complex job and you can't do it alone.
 
So in a nutshell, for most of us, put the bars and seat you are going to use. Then find a footpeg position where you back, legs and feet are most comfortable and can actuate the foot controls without excessive tension.
Lot harder than it looks.
 

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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Thanks for the input!  Considering that information it would probably we wise to get rear sets with a lot adjustability.  I pretty new at this so the way I hold myself on bike may change.  It may be able to account for variable like the boots which will definitely change with time. 

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  • 8 months later...
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Reviving a thread here.
i've purchased the renthal streetfighter bars... and i absolutely love them
but the stock risers arent doing it for me
 
I ordered a set that might work... bu im afraid they might be too small to fit over the bore for the rubber isolators in the tree
does anyone have or can anyone measure this for me? My bike is at the dealership fixing an oil leak

Thanks for the input!  Considering that information it would probably we wise to get rear sets with a lot adjustability.  I pretty new at this so the way I hold myself on bike may change.  It may be able to account for variable like the boots which will definitely change with time. 
If you havent yet, i would recommend the AP motoarts adapter plates. They can be ussd with stock rearsets and are almost infjnitely adjustable
 
 
 

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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What do you want measured. I have the stock ones out and changed to an upright aftermarket set. Stock clamp shaft is 10mm. All the aftermarket clamps I found were 12. That wasn't a problem as I made some aluminium spacers to get rid of the floppy rubber ones anyway.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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need the bore diam for the rubber insert portion, need to make a spacer or get a washer that will cover coverbit

ATGATT... ATTATT, two acronyms I live by.
 

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I will be making mine in the next few days hopefully. I will post the dims and maybe if the finish isn't too botched some pics. I am going to make hat shaped spacers.

Go forth and modify my son...go forth and modify...

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