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profipix

Can't downshift to 1st, engine turned off after 30 seconds

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profipix
Hey folks,
First time posting here.
I own a red '15 fz07. On my commute to work today, after riding for about 30 mins, I'm coming up to a left turn. I was in 3rd, downshifted to 2nd. In 2-3 seconds, had to downshift to 1st, as the car in front of me decided to wait to turn. Thing is, I couldn't downshift. It's as if I was hitting the bottom of the gears. It wouldn't shift thru the neutral from the 2nd. So I had my clutch it, while still in 2nd, shifted to N, then back to 2nd. Then tried shifting to 1st from 2nd, still wouldn't work. In about 15 secs of trying, it finally kicked into 1st.
[span]Once I turned, I went up to 3rd. Coming up to a stop, I downshifted to 2nd and the bike just died. The dashboard and everything was still lit up but the engine turned off. Got me freaked out. Started it back up, no problem, started riding, shifting was fine. Made it to work in 3 mins after the stall. Funny that while I'm writing this, I got a call from the dealer where I got this bike, they're asking me to bring it in ASAP due to a recall fix. I researched a bit about what the recall might be, sounds like it's the battery wires overheating. Definitely can say that I do smell plastic once I start the bike up, never thought it could be the wires. I was thinking the smell is just because the bike is still brand new (<100mi).
 
I wonder if anyone else had the same issue and what did you do about it?    [/span]

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mike6116
well, i have been on the same shift problem twice, what ive done when this happens, is to stay in neutral, then release clutch, then clutch in while little rev engine, and 1st gear will then get thru.
 
I remember there is a thread with some comments on this, and what i remember it has to do with something about synchronization of the transmision gears.
 
 
About engine stall  it seems thats a regular thing on FZ07,  mine has not stall once since i bought it,  but several users have been reporting this issue.
 

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mjh937
Were you stopped when you are trying to find first gear? If you were then moving the bike forward or back a foot or so should allow it to shift into first okay. This is common with motorcycle transmissions and is normal. I always downshift to first just as I am coming to a stop and have never had a problem.

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fooschnickens
I would also check the clutch lever switch and kickstand switch to be sure they're plugged in completely. The motor will cut off if it's in gear and kickstand is down, so if the switch is messed up that might explain the bike turning off

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rick
sounds like 3 separate issues 1) the stalling at idle many of us have experienced, 2) maybe the battery cable in the recall shorting, 3) yep, it might be hard to shift down from 3rd or 2nd at a standstill - especially if the bike has low miles. Gearboxes tend to shift better with time as edges smooth out a touch
 
Like MJH suggested, try moving the bike while pushing down on the lever. Even letting the clutch out just until it drags can help.
 
And, btw, motorcycle gearboxes do not have synchros like what's found in a car's box.

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griffin
my bike has 300 miles on it and it still smells like burnt rubber/electrical from time to time. I called my dealership and was informed that my production number was post recall and that i was okay. So who knows what the hell is burning.../shrug

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Guest whitegas
my bike has 300 miles on it and it still smells like burnt rubber/electrical from time to time. I called my dealership and was informed that my production number was post recall and that i was okay. So who knows what the hell is burning.../shrug
I've had that burnt rubber/electrical smell the first 500 so or miles. A few people have described it as the Yamaha smell. I don't smell it anymore at 1000 miles.  But then I don't know how much burnt rubber you are smelling so I can't say for sure if that's it.
 
Anyway, found the yamaha smell thread: http://fz07.org/thread/1504/smell-riding-town
 
Also I recall reading somewhere not to pull your clutch all the way in to shift to 1st. Or maybe I'm imagining that one. I don't know.

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magsz18
sounds like 3 separate issues 1) the stalling at idle many of us have experienced, 2) maybe the battery cable in the recall shorting, 3) yep, it might be hard to shift down from 3rd or 2nd at a standstill - especially if the bike has low miles. Gearboxes tend to shift better with time as edges smooth out a touch 
Like MJH suggested, try moving the bike while pushing down on the lever. Even letting the clutch out just until it drags can help.
 
And, btw, motorcycle gearboxes do not have synchros like what's found in a car's box.
In the MSF course they taught us to basically roll the bike forward when trying to shift gears while stopped. 
Sometimes learning the basics right from the outset prevents issues like what the OP MAY be experiencing.

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Guest cjwwd2
I've also noticed that sometimes if you pull in the clutch too far it doesn't like to shift as easy. Try pulling the clutch in to where you can tell it's disconnected the power, but it's not touching the grip and see if that helps.

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rick
I've also noticed that sometimes if you pull in the clutch too far it doesn't like to shift as easy. Try pulling the clutch in to where you can tell it's disconnected the power, but it's not touching the grip and see if that helps.
can't imagine why pushing the plates further apart by some fraction of an inch would make any appreciable difference in how it'll shift. Maybe pulling the lever back to the bar is not necessary, but someone will have to explain how it's gonna make shifting worse. 
Change to a full synthetic oil meant to be inside a motorcycle. Yeah, yeah, Rotella T and Mobile 1 are good stuff, but were never designed to deal with the sheer forces experienced inside a gearbox. 
 
As for those who still think you have to wait for some magic number of miles to be racked up or because there's "break-in oil" from the factory of whatever to go synthetic. Well I think you'd be surprised by how many cars come with a fill of full synthetic these days - From Corvettes to Subarus. 

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mjh937
Mobil 1 does make a motorcycle specific synthetic oil. That is what I am using.

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rick
Mobil 1 does make a motorcycle specific synthetic oil. That is what I am using.
Oh yeah, forgot about that one. Now that you mention it, pretty sure Valvoline does as well. I was more referring to the car stuff found at Wallyworld at a huge discount. Though lots of guys do use the car oil with good results as long as you don't use the ones labelled "energy conserving". They have too many friction modifiers for the clutch to be happy. 
 
 

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mjh937
I am not sure why some people want to use car oil just to save a couple of bucks. You only need to buy three quarts for an oil change. It is not worth skimping on car oil. Now if someone find a deal on motorcycle oil that is great. We could have a ten page debate on synthetic vs. dino oil :).

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fooschnickens
There's a plethora of full-synth moto oils out there now. It's nice being able to walk into any auto parts store around here (even wally world) and grab a few quarts of what I need. Still have to get filters online or at the dealer, but I can deal with that minor inconvenience.

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crazycracka501
I am finding that my bike is actually "loosing" first gear more often now that I am at about 3500 mi. I've done all of the services and even the second oil change early and went with full synthetic Yamalube. I do notice that it is doing it while I am still rolling, so I'm not stopped and trying to downshift. I did ride hard sometimes but it seems like the problem actually got worse once I quit riding hard and started taking it easy. Anyone else notice this?

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