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MRH

Can't seem to get the header to fit

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MRH

Hey guys, I just received my Yoshimura performance package from 2WdW yesterday and seem to have caught a snag installing it today. After I installed the hanger I went to put the header on but it just doesn't seem to match the exhaust ports. The best I could do is get part of the pipe on the left side of the bike in (not all, it kinda gets jammed a little), but there's like an inch gap between the exhaust port and the end of the header pipe on the right side. Any angle I come at it, it just doesn't seem to match up. Additionally, the header pipes seem closer together than the exhaust ports.

 

Has anyone had a similar problem? What could I be doing wrong? Could I maybe have gotten the wrong header? I noticed it was a brushed greyish metal, which is ok by me. But all the videos I've seen have it looking like a polished chrome color. So I don't know if that is an indicator of a different part of not.

 

So anyway, any suggestions are welcome and thanks in advance for the help!

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RojoRacing

I started by loosely attaching the headers to the cyclinders then worked back from there. That always seems to be the better method to getting exhausts to line up especially when their slip fit with springs. 

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no-lag

can i see photo?

 

I had to stretch mine i have the Yoshi R&D

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bartman5impson

You need to push together or pull apart the pipes until they line up. I think what I did is attached one, bolted it down very loosely, and then pulled away the other pipe to line it up.

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bartman5impson

Here's an explanation of what is going on

On 5/18/2018 at 10:28 PM, CarGuy7a said:

Being a Tig welder I will tell you why this happens and why there is no way to keep this from happening. A welding fixture will only get a part very close to what the end result should be. As metal heats up and cools down it expands and contracts. When you put the heat of welding temps to metal (which is thousands of degrees) this effect is magnified significantly and causes the parts to move quite a bit. So even if headers or whatever you are welding is setup and welded in a fixture, when you pull the part out of the fixture and it cools down to room temp, dimensions will still change but will be within acceptable manufacturing tolerances. You can get the tolerances even closer if the part is left to cool completely while in the fixture but from a manufacturing standpoint this is ludicrous and too time consuming. Now going back to what I said about metal moving when heated or cooled. You will have to make the headers fit into the head and once you get everything assembled, torqued to proper specs, ride it and get it hot, the metal will relax to where it should be then you should never have a problem if you ever have to remove it and re install it.

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MRH

So basically just force that sucker on there and bolt it down?  One other question: How the heck do you keep those copper-colored gaskets in while you're trying to mash the pipes into place? Not to mention getting that other slidey part over the screws to bolt it on. Are there special tools? Or should I just have a couple extra hands sewn onto me arms?

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shinyribs

Some stiff grease will hold the gaskets in place and it will burn off in seconds. It won't hurt anything and you probably won't even notice any smoke. If you don't have a tub of stiff grease just use anything similar. Hell, peanut butter would probably great. 

 

Be sure to use solvent to clean the pipes before you fire the bike. Fingerprints and othe roils cn leave permanent stains when the pipes get hot, so just give it a quick wipe down. 

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DewMan
15 minutes ago, MRH said:

So basically just force that sucker on there and bolt it down?  One other question: How the heck do you keep those copper-colored gaskets in while you're trying to mash the pipes into place? Not to mention getting that other slidey part over the screws to bolt it on. Are there special tools? Or should I just have a couple extra hands sewn onto me arms? 

What @shinyribs said.

 

Alternatively I used a thin film of High temp anti-seize to hold the gaskets in place to the block. This will have the added benefit of getting the old gaskets out easier next time you have to pull the pipe for either maintenance or upgrade.👍

Edited by DewMan
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MRH

Thanks all. So Friday I'm going to have at it once more. I'll jam that left pipe in, cinch it down a bit then just pull and force the right one in. Man, I hope I don't crack or snap the header.

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RojoRacing
3 hours ago, MRH said:

So basically just force that sucker on there and bolt it down?  One other question: How the heck do you keep those copper-colored gaskets in while you're trying to mash the pipes into place? Not to mention getting that other slidey part over the screws to bolt it on. Are there special tools? Or should I just have a couple extra hands sewn onto me arms?

Use high heat cooper silicone, just a couple dabs are enough to keep them in place. Also again I’ll stress you should bolt the headers on first loosely then get the rear bolt started, then tighten the front completely then the rear. A little anti-seize where any pipes slip fit together is all recommended, just be sure to clean off any excess with brake cleaner before you heat it up. 

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CarGuy7a

It'll take alot of force to break or crack the welds on the headers unless they are just crap welds (which on a yosh pipe or any other reputable brand I doubt they're crap welds).

 

The easiest way to spread them apart is to just put the headers in your lap where the two pipe ends (the engine side of the headers) are straight up and down, grab both pipes and just yank them apart and test fit in between each time you do it till they slide right in the engine.

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Beemer

My Akrapovic header was the same way, just not quite as bad. I just grabbed them and pulled them apart. when you tighten them down it does the final alignment. It takes some muscle to make it happen so eat your Wheaties and take a deep breath.

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DewMan

The use of a reversible bar clamp would make this a lot easier than trying to muscle them apart/together. ✌️ 

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MRH

I got it, guys. I just had my buddy come over and once we got the left header on I just manhandled the right til I could get the flange aligned and got those bolts on lickety split.

 

Now two questions: I don't have a torque wrench, but I know you need to have equal tension on each bolt and it shouldn't be super tight or else it'll warp your headers into an oval shape over time. Knowing this, I was conscious about only tightening them until they sealed to the engine. Do you think that'll be ok?

 

Second, what is with that O2 sensor wire?! I had to twist it so much that I thought the wires would snap. Is that normal? Is there an easier or safer way?

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norcal616
26 minutes ago, MRH said:

Second, what is with that O2 sensor wire?! I had to twist it so much that I thought the wires would snap. Is that normal? Is there an easier or safer way?

yea its easier to unplug the o2 sensor wire at the harness behind the silver boot/heel/ frame guard...

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MRH

By the way, does anyone know the tension setting for the header bolts? I got 14lbs from somewhere but I can't recall if that was verified.

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Beemer
19 hours ago, DewMan said:

The use of a reversible bar clamp would make this a lot easier than trying to muscle them apart/together. ✌️ 

He's right, I broke a nail doing it the hard way and was flustered all day, ha! 😉

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DewMan
7 hours ago, MRH said:

By the way, does anyone know the tension setting for the header bolts? I got 14lbs from somewhere but I can't recall if that was verified.

This thread has a link to the torque settings for most many bolts on the MT/FZ-07 👍

 

Edit: But I don't see the exhaust stud on the list so from the Yamaha shop manual it lists the torque needed as 14ft-lb/20nm

 

Edited by DewMan
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