r4gnar Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 6 hours ago, norcal616 said: stock o2 threads are 12mm x1.5mm IIRC, go to a good nut/bolt store like Fastnal for a good stainless bolt bout 10mm long... you can disconnect the o2 sensor behind the silver frame guard above the footpeg area and leave the sensor in the exhaust... its best to remove the o2 sensor so its not getting destroyed just hanging out on the exhaust... another odd idea is maybe you have a "quick turn" throttle installed? if so that may give you fits with tuning/troubleshooting since you gotta be "on point" with throttle control vs the stock throttle tube... Thanks! I thought it connects directly to where ECU is connected. I'll look into it. My throttle tube is stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted July 19, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted July 19, 2018 23 minutes ago, r4gnar said: Thanks! I thought it connects directly to where ECU is connected. I'll look into it. My throttle tube is stock. no its connected to the sub harness of the wiring system not at the ECU... the wire length of the stock o2 sensor is like 8in or so, just follow the wire to the connection... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted July 19, 2018 Global Moderator Share Posted July 19, 2018 Does disconnecting the O2 sensor give a check engine light? I am thinking of disconnecting mine as I am sometimes getting a bit of jerkiness at low throttle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member norcal616 Posted July 19, 2018 Premium Member Share Posted July 19, 2018 no check engine light... 2015 fz-07- Hordpower Edition...2015 fj-09- 120whp- Graves Exhaust w/Woolich Race Kit- tuned by 2WDW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted July 20, 2018 Global Moderator Share Posted July 20, 2018 I disconnected the sensor and it took away the jerkiness at low throttle. I am very happy with it. The plug is 12X1.25. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
topazsparrow Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 2 hours ago, mjh937 said: I disconnected the sensor and it took away the jerkiness at low throttle. I am very happy with it. The plug is 12X1.25. Its worth noting that the sensor is replaced with the auto-tune package. Not sure if it will fix your problem, but it does appear to be related to the o2 sensor right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted July 20, 2018 Global Moderator Share Posted July 20, 2018 2 minutes ago, topazsparrow said: Its worth noting that the sensor is replaced with the auto-tune package. Not sure if it will fix your problem, but it does appear to be related to the o2 sensor right now. Another thread discussed it more, but if you get hesitation or jerkiness after flashing the ECU removing the O2 sensor can fix it. It seems to have worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r4gnar Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 UPDATE: So, like I mentioned before, people from FTECU recommended removing the stock O2 sensor, so I did just that after flashing my ECU. I wanted a clean start to test this properly. I can confirm that a lot of jerkiness I was experiencing is now gone. Lost a tiny bit of power at low RPM but I guess that was to be expected when closed loop is replaced by open loop with richer mixtures, right? I've been riding for 3 days now and the experience is consistent. No self-corrections, no going back to pre-flash settings. I would really like to have the sensor in but the difference is too much to ignore. Riding without it makes me so much confident when doing low speed/rpm manouvers. Some other observations: The decel popping was slightly reduced, which I like a lot. The engine runs a little cooler, again, probably due to richer mixture. I will now report back to the guys at FTECU and repeat what I said here. I will ask them for more suggestions or other recommendations they might have. So far I'm happy with the outcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted July 26, 2018 Share Posted July 26, 2018 Glad to hear you pretty much have it sorted out now. If you want to further help eliminate decel popping (If you can modify the PCV map you have loaded) add some fuel in the 0% throttle range from about 2000RPM up to the highest RPM that map can go. Try a fuel trim of about 5 at first. If you can't modify the PCV map then you can turn on the decel injection in your FTECU settings which is an easier option. This will add some fuel when you are off the throttle at higher RPMs to help eliminate some of the engine braking and decel popping. You can always revert it if you don't like it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r4gnar Posted July 26, 2018 Author Share Posted July 26, 2018 8 hours ago, CarGuy7a said: Glad to hear you pretty much have it sorted out now. If you want to further help eliminate decel popping (If you can modify the PCV map you have loaded) add some fuel in the 0% throttle range from about 2000RPM up to the highest RPM that map can go. Try a fuel trim of about 5 at first. If you can't modify the PCV map then you can turn on the decel injection in your FTECU settings which is an easier option. This will add some fuel when you are off the throttle at higher RPMs to help eliminate some of the engine braking and decel popping. You can always revert it if you don't like it. I tried exactly what you described when I had the sensor still on. I even had it at +15 in the 1250-4000 RPM range because that's where I hear the popping. Never noticed any difference, even when I went from 0 to +15 (and yes, I have the injectors enabled to take advantage of the 0% throttle position). I'll try with the sensor disconnected. I never thought about adding fuel outside the range, maybe that's why my results were dissapointing. Thank you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted July 29, 2018 Share Posted July 29, 2018 Just don't add fuel too low on the rpm range or it will add fuel while idling and you don't want that. I started at about 2000 RPM and up. The bike idles right around 1300ish RPM's. I would test it both ways. Turn the decel injection on, and reset all your 0% throttle fuel trims back to 0 in the map and ride it. Then turn the injection off, and add about 5 to 10 fuel trim in the map from 2000rpm up at 0% throttle and ride test it. See which one is better and leave it set there. I wouldn't run fuel trim and the injection on at the same time or you'll be dumping way too much fuel on decel and your fuel mileage will go down the toilet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r4gnar Posted August 3, 2018 Author Share Posted August 3, 2018 On 7/29/2018 at 5:07 AM, CarGuy7a said: I would test it both ways. Turn the decel injection on, and reset all your 0% throttle fuel trims back to 0 in the map and ride it. That's what I have now. I feel it can be improved. On 7/29/2018 at 5:07 AM, CarGuy7a said: Then turn the injection off, and add about 5 to 10 fuel trim in the map from 2000rpm up at 0% throttle and ride test it. So just to be absolutely sure, you're saying I should add fuel from ~2000 all the way up? Thanks for all the tips. This is great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarGuy7a Posted August 4, 2018 Share Posted August 4, 2018 19 hours ago, r4gnar said: So just to be absolutely sure, you're saying I should add fuel from ~2000 all the way up? Yep in the 0% throttle column from 2000 RPM all the way up. I have my fuel trim right around 5 and it works for me. It still has a little blubbering and a pop here or there while decelerating which is fine with me. Too much decel popping is just obnoxious IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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