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  1. Today
  2. mjh937

    2019 ice fluo UK

    Your bike looks great, but I thought you had to have enormous license plates in the UK. That one is a reasonable size.
  3. Yesterday
  4. atwater

    2015 Fz07 part out

    Selling my 2015 fz07 so all the goodies are going too. All items are located in Minneapolis, Prices do not include shipping. More pictures on request if anyone needs something specific Woodcraft clip ons 1.5 drop- 150$ Woodcraft rear sets+extra peg standard shift- 250$ Spiegler brake lines- 50$ Power commander 5- 250$ Dobeck performance EJK 100$ Leo Vince exhaust, has an extra O2 sensor bung welded for autotune- 350$ Mwr filter plus lid- 70$ Nitron R3 shock setup for 195lb rider last rebuilt in spring of 2020- 675$ Forks by Matt conversion with .95 springs 200$+trade for stock forks
  5. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • Pittsburgh pilot

    Welcome to the forum, Pittsburgh pilot

  6. I use a slightly older model (40001) of this compact compressor with the the SAE battery connector that comes with it: Sorry! Something went wrong! I like the newer model with the built in pressure gauge and screw on connector, that my older model doesn't have, but I wish the newer model had the SAE pigtail connector like the older model. It could easily be retrofitted for an SAE battery connector though, and I think I will and take my older model and put it in the car.
  7. I took out the guts of a small 12v compressor and carry that in the tail bag, along with a plug kit.
  8. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • CLEOPHAS

    Welcome to the forum, CLEOPHAS

  9. stickeh

    2019 ice fluo UK

    here is my 2019 ice fluo I use it for commuting when its not raining and for weekend blats in the countryside. i will hopefully pop over to Europe for some trips when this covid nonsense is over. still a few bits in the pipeline but this is where i am so far stu
  10. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • Divemaxx

    Welcome to the forum, Divemaxx

  11. here's mine, looks about the same
  12. Universe has a way of delivering, I've been exploring ideas for where/what 3D print job could hide an on-board tire patch kit w/ CO2. Then got that slippy feelz on left turn excelerates, pull over and check rear axle for bearing compression first, all good, then do the rear tire roll, and there she is, the universe delivering me a roadside test of my on-board patch kit. Key tools in my kit NAPA tire repair tools here Tire rubber cement here DoubleTough Inflator here 6 x CO2 16 gram cans here and you know how to find everything else Disclaimer - this will kill you and it causes athletes foot fungus You can jump to the bottom if all you want to know what I'm adding to the kit, for next time, still keeping it minimalist. Now I'm 0nly a couple miles from my garage, so I pull it in home to do the patch, but I'm going to play I have nothing on hand, except my on-board patch kit (the black tape box is the CO2 16 gram cans). Plus like always, I got a Kershaw knife and pocket flashlight. What, no flashlight? You want to think that out. I got two tools avail in kit, to extract whatever the problem is. Preserve the air in the tire, by being quick about it when you don't have something plugging the hole. When I pull that nail, I'm going to immediately insert the tip of the patch file. Why is obvious, CO2 will take you from 15lbs to 30lbs easier than zer0 to whatever. Because I'm in garage, we'll just take a look at the air pressure before I pull the nail. Let's go with the road side fix. Pull the nail with the mini-side cutters, and insert that file to clean up the injury. But first, step back and just look at the angle and particulars of the injury, is the angle shown by the file acceptable to rope-patch, or is it a "cut" like? This is just so you know if you will run the rope a bit, before replacing rubber, a cut gets new tire asap, reasonable straight holes, not so much. Guess it's a rope-keeper, I'll run that for a while cause I'm old and senile. OK, before you go tearing away with the file, I think about NOT rounding out the hole inside or outside. I've seen a vid on Revzilla think, that they run the file in then angle all "around the clock" while filing. Want to guess what that does? Increases the injury, size of hole gets opened even larger inside and outside. Let's run the file straight in and out to keep the damn problem small, hey? First I wet that file, and I repeat wetting the file, with rubber cement. While I'm cleaning the injury the file is already delivering a good dose of rubber cement thru-out the injury. Always good to have cement already in the hole, before you plug it with rope. With the file still plug'in the hole to keep the party atmosphere inside, put a rope plug in the insertion tool, about 35%. We are going to push the rope plug all the way inside tire, until about 35% is still sticking out. Note, on a really bad emergency (size of injury) I will put the rope plug in the tool at 50%, and when I insert it I will leave both ends of rope sticking out of the injury a small bit, it's like running two ropes in at once to plug a canyon. Cover that rope with cement, I mean give it a good bath. We're trying to get wet rubber cement inside with the rope, cement makes it easy to insert rope tool with that tiny handle tool roadside, without cement you would wish for gloves and/or a "T" handle tool. OK, pull the file tool out of the hole and use the rope insertion tool, and give it to it where she needs fixed, insert (slowly so you don't go too far) until the single end of the rope remains outside about an inch, turn the handle a half turn and pull insertion tool out of the wound, that rope will stay right there. Messy, overdone, but you want to get home don't you? Grab some leaves on side of road and wipe that excess off a little if you want, you don't want to slip on that pulling back on the road. So how much air did we preserve? Well I did the switching so quick, I had almost 30 lbs of air left in tire. Think about what good news that is. When you patch roadside, be quick about the tool change, and you may have very little left to do as far as air goes. To test my inflator tool, I let the air down to 15 lbs, so we lost half our air doing the patch. Open up the black tape closed package in our kit, it's got 6 CO2 16 gram canisters ready to load. Get the inflator tool from the kit, close the yellow valve all the way, then screw the inflator onto our tire valve stem, quickly to not loose air. Get out the first CO2 and screw it in (don't bend your valve stem all over the place, be kind to that rubber thingy will ya?). Now open the yellow valve and you hear the rush and see the canister freeze outside as the pressure is released into the tire. Don't be too quick to assume it's done, those things seem to "freeze up" and fail to release all the available "equalizing" pressure into the tire. I give each one a minute, you see the bottle frost outside on the CO2 canister melt away, then CLOSE the yellow valve before you remove the empty CO2 and screw in a new CO2 canister. OK, just repeat, and you are guessing how many canisters you want to add, because this inflator doesn't have any convenient way to measure tire pressure without removing it. I started with the 15 lbs for the test, I ran 5 canisters into the tire assuming I could get a best case of about 5 lbs or air increase per canister, here's what I got. Not too shabby, from a start of 15lbs to 41 lbs with 5 canisters, better than I expected. You can run it a bit hot like this if you want, or think your patch is weak/or may not seal, straight to nearest gas station or friend's house. If you feel good about it, let the pressure down to what you run and your call about keep riding or go home and check everything over twice. Last step, use the mini side cutters and cut that extra rope hanging outside, trim it down close but NOT overdone. It's the last step, like in Africa after they kill an elephant, nobody starts to cut it up and eat until the zombie witch doctor cuts the tail off. To eat an elephant, before the tail is cut off, it like eating dinner without saying grace - a faux pas Hit's and Mizzes I can recommend this inflator, the CO2 works fine, the small file & insertion tool, and my small side cutters. What I did not have that I really needed was these things (1) my cheapo size of a 50 cent piece tire pressure gauge, I was riding without a pressure gauge, idiot (2) put a couple pair of painters plastic gloves in your kit, kind that are skin tight (3) two zip lock bags, use one on ground for your "work area" and other to put all dirty kit stuff in to take home That's it. If your not carrying a tire patch kit, knife, and flashlight, you are being a "cool hand luke" and the universe is going to one day "get your mind right", because there has clearly been a "failure to communicate". Don't be luke ... cool hand luke. All I need now is someone to 3D print a clever way to carry this minimalist kit, it's just a non-descript small black bag on pillion with a cargo net.
  13. Civiltechyyc

    Engine Ice

    I just started using Engine Ice. I typically do the brake fluid and coolant at the same time so every two years before taking it out of winter storage.
  14. atwater

    Engine Ice

    I’ve always used regular coolant and really don’t flush it that often. What’s been your take on engine ice first season I’m using it.
  15. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • Aron L

    Welcome to the forum, Aron L

  16. Lots on information on your options for fork and shock upgrades on the main threads in the suspension forum. Correct springs from sonic springs and heavier weight oil is the most economic option for your front end. Use the racetech website to find out what springs will work for you. Rear shock unfortunately is replace with an aftermarket shock. I’m your same weight and tried the springs and oil first. Helped a great deal but in the end I had my forks rebuild by forks by Matt and got a nitron rear shock. All comes down to what your using the bike for and your budget.
  17. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • Dino

    Welcome to the forum, Dino

  18. Looks normal according to the installation instructions from the exhaust manufacture. https://d1sfhav1wboke3.cloudfront.net/ImageServer/Apim2media/Documents/14878/880412dc8f6649c698d6bfa203fb9470.pdf I would just check for any exhaust leaks and if you don't feel or hear any, you're in the clear. One other method is to remove the system, measure the throat of the exhaust and the engine casing and make sure it's bottoming out on the gaskets.
  19. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • pranoyTen

    Welcome to the forum, pranoyTen

  20. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • Alexx

    Welcome to the forum, Alexx

  21. Yep, can confirm. @ormano I had the same thing happen for what it's worth. I recommend cleaning the the threads of both bolt 36 and where it threads into bike and using blue threadlock to prevent this from happening again.
  22. Recently acquired a 2016 fz07 and i am getting it setup. The shock was at the lowest preload setting when I got it and it was terrible! I cranked it all the way down and it feels way better. I probably still need a stiffer spring for it and definitely up front for the forks. Is this something I can do? I'm competent turning wrenches but I've never messed with suspension. Watching a YouTube video for a fork spring swap seems easy enough but I'm not sure about the rear. I'm open to suggestions. I weigh 200lbs geared up and I could spend a little money if necessary. Thanks.
  23. Last week
  24. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • Txui

    Welcome to the forum, Txui

  25. Hey, I took apart the whole exhaust system in order to install a db killer, unfortunately I haven’t looked or took any pictures before taking the system apart to ensure that all parts are connected as they were before. My concern is the connections for the full system, it seems to be connected straight without the option to tinker with it, but showing some “skin” also - I couldn’t push it farther that it is shown in the pictures that I’ve included to this post. Can someone clarify this for me? Maybe check with their exhaust system to see if it is connected the same and should be like this? Thanks.
  26. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • candave650

    Welcome to the forum, candave650

  27. Cruizin

    • Cruizin
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    • c4ffrey

    Welcome to the forum, c4ffrey

  28. That's just a regular washer outta the junk drawer, like a 3/8" or whatever fits.
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