ornery Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Stumbled onto this video last night, and promptly contacted [/url]keys4urride.com to see what blanks I would use in the 2015 FZ07: [div align=center][video src=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y3SBY1U_kk] [div align=left]He asserts the keys that come with the bike are weak and bend easily, and even a very slight bend renders them useless. Kudos to sales@keys4urride.com for getting a reply back to me so quickly on a weekend. But, now that I've looked at their link to the new blanks, I'm not sure why these would be any stronger. They are both nickel plated brass, which is the same material as the keys I'm using now. One locksmith, who commented on that video, suggested cutting only one side to help strengthen the key. So, I'm dubious. Anyone able to corroborate the bending issue? If the replacement keys were made of steel, I'd buy without hesitation, but these brass ones don't seem like a worthwhile investment. [/div][/div] “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cndnmax Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Never had a key bend on me, if your locks are that hard to turn then lube them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beemer Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I found this info online about brass, it may or may not be the answer as to why one brass key may be harder than another. "Brass has higher malleability than bronze or zinc. The relatively low melting point of brass (900 to 940 °C, 1652 to 1724 °F, depending on composition) and its flow characteristics make it a relatively easy material to cast. By varying the proportions of copper and zinc, the properties of the brass can be changed, allowing hard and soft brasses. The density of brass is approximately .303 lb/cubic inch, 8.4 to 8.73 grams per cubic centimetre." Beemer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fooschnickens Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 This was a big issue with Mazda keys during the 90s. If you were smart you'd have a couple blanks on hand at all times and NEVER use your spare key so you'd have a clean one to make a copy with. I had one where the key actually split in half, right down the middle of that gulley that runs the length of the key. The most common failure point was right near the end of the teeth, when you got a little crack there (not if) you were running on borrowed time as to when your key would just twist off in the ignition cylinder. People were finding that even the super cheap home depot blanks were many times stronger than the OEM keys, so the theory behind different proportioned alloys is probably quite true. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted July 19, 2015 Author Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks for the info about the various brass compositions. Never knew that, I just assumed brass was brass. I do intend to lube all the cylinders with something, but not sure what would be ideal. A dry lube, grease, oil or silicone? Not sure. Thanks also for relating the Mazda key issue. That confirms this could be a Yamaha concern as well. Guess I'll go ahead and snag a new key. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Global Moderator mjh937 Posted July 19, 2015 Global Moderator Share Posted July 19, 2015 I have not heard of anyone having issues with Yamaha keys. Have I missed something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmwpowere36m3 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 I've had some keys bend, but the locks were stuck and I was applying too much force. Most blanks are brass and many places refuse to cut steel keys (probably due to additional wear on cutters or need for different ones). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke325i Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Wiggle the steering while unlocking it, never force the key, shouldnt be anything other than easy to unlock steering. These DO stick sometimes if you dont move the steering while unlocking ut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fooschnickens Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 Thanks for the info about the various brass compositions. Never knew that, I just assumed brass was brass. I do intend to lube all the cylinders with something, but not sure what would be ideal. A dry lube, grease, oil or silicone? Not sure. Thanks also for relating the Mazda key issue. That confirms this could be a Yamaha concern as well. Guess I'll go ahead and snag a new key. I've always used a silicone spray. Dry, doesn't attract dirt/gunk and leaves your key clean. Graphite spray works really well, too, but can make your key a bit dirty. Just stay away from heavier lubes and especially WD-40, that stuff attracts dirt like nobody's business. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tanner68 Posted July 19, 2015 Share Posted July 19, 2015 The gunnies and knife guys on this board, can tell you all about the different properties of an alloy depending on the particular composition and heat treatment. So yeah, brass is not just brass, but can be hard or soft, malleable, or brittle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member craigm Posted July 20, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 20, 2015 I never have a problem with turning the key in the ignition, but the removal of the passenger seat is another matter! Sometimes I have to turn that so hard I'm surprised I haven't snapped the key. I may just grab another spare for that reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1finefz09 Posted July 20, 2015 Share Posted July 20, 2015 Flexible keys are good. Let me explain why. I am a locksmith, or, a retired one. 20 plus years in the business. 1. This rarely happens. Very rarely happens. Only time we sold motorcycle blanks or cut bike keys was when someone lost a key or when they wanted an extra. And, we were the very busiest locksmith in this area with three locations. We did however, replace alot of locks from idiots trying to force a stuck key to turn, back when all keys were stronger. We were very happy when keys started getting more flexible. For good reason.. 2.Never try to force any key. Back it off, try again. Turn keys lightly. 3. Lube your locks, today! Use dry lube, and not the spray kind. take the cap off your bottle of dry lube and dump some down into the cylinder. If your lube comes in a spray aerosol can, throw it away! But if you have already used wet lube, dont switch to dry because the mixture of the two will gunk up your lock. There are two types of lock lubricants. Dry and wet. Dry is what I prefer, what most pro locksmiths prefer. Only use a little bit though, doesn't take much. If you go with wet, it will attract dust into your lock and jam it up over time. So, go dry and odds are nobody will ever try to relube the lock anyways, this is why locksmiths are in business. lol 4. Most any local locksmith does indeed carry motorcycle key blanks. This guy is wrong and either works for or is friends with said mail order key blank company in the video. 5. Flexible keys are good. Motorcycle lock cylinders are cheap and fragile. The pins are cheap, so are the springs. If the key is stronger than the lock cylinder, and someone tries to force the key to turn when jammed, a stronger key will break your lock cylinder, jam the pins, break the springs and then you have a stuck key, broken lock and a huge locksmith bill. 6. Walmart, home depot, ace hardware are not locksmiths. Do not let them touch any of your keys. They use a preprogrammed machine to cut keys, any dummy can turn it on and cut a key. But said dummies hardly ever calibrate the machine and then you have keys that are one hair off. They might turn the lock, but they are doing damage to your lock and will strip the lock eventually. Also, never make a copy from a key that has already been copied, it will be even further off. Always copy the original key only. 7. Go see a REAL locksmith. Get a copy made, put it away. And don't ask him for a stronger key. We were the largest AAA locksmith in the area. I had 8 vans running full time and if you broke your lock, locked keys in your car or lost your keys and needed a new key impressioned, we were the only company AAA called. Trust me, my advice is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ornery Posted July 20, 2015 Author Share Posted July 20, 2015 Thanks a million, Bill. I've already ordered a key. Wish I'd invested in the dry lube instead. I would never force a key, mostly out of fear of having it sheared off in the cylinder. I do believe fooschnickens about the Mazda key issue. No idea whether that would ever be repeated, but I'd hate to be the victim if it did. Bike life is all new to me, so I'll generally err on the side of caution. “The real cycle you're working on is a cycle called yourself.” — Robert M. Pirsig (Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance: An Inquiry Into Values) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member avanti Posted July 21, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted July 21, 2015 GOOD GRIEF; marketing B.S.! We don't even have a spring-loaded ignition switch to turn the key against each time we start it like in most cars--using brass keys. I'm still using the original keys in several 50+ year old cars!!! Never bent a key in anything in 55 years driving/riding!!! ***btw, brass keys can wear out; the "teeth" wear down, but by then the cylinder is usually shot, as well*** Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgordon Posted October 6, 2015 Share Posted October 6, 2015 Bill, what brand of dry lock lubricant do you prefer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Premium Member motomeek Posted October 6, 2015 Premium Member Share Posted October 6, 2015 Bill, what brand of dry lock lubricant do you prefer?+1! Instagram: @meekmade | You don't need to flat foot a bike to ride it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cruizin Posted October 18, 2015 Share Posted October 18, 2015 Bill hasn't been around in a while, but here is the dry graphite lock lube he was talking abouthttp://bit.ly/1jw7zwV Any Dry Graphite lube should work fine. Just remember like what Bill said., after using this, don't spray wet lube into the lock or you will gum it up. Yamaha MT-10 ForumYamaha Tracer 900 Forum Yamaha Ténéré 700 Forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skawdee Posted October 15, 2016 Share Posted October 15, 2016 I never have a problem with turning the key in the ignition, but the removal of the passenger seat is another matter! Sometimes I have to turn that so hard I'm surprised I haven't snapped the key. I may just grab another spare for that reason.Try pressing down on the seat at the same time while turning the key release. Pressing on the seas will relieve pressure and the latch that locks the seat in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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